If anyone sees this NEVER get a cheap car quest or auto zone one, my bolt backed its way out and I went cheap with a doorman brand one and now 3 months latter the rubber fell apart and I’ve got to go swap it out again!
Got a feeling my gf's crankpulley is wobbling on her 09. Not looking forward to this job, I'll be honest. Going to check the pulley later at my building and see. Definitely gets a vibration around 2500rpm-3500rpm. I think the torque tube could need rebuilt also but...these harmonic balancers are junk. Thanks for the vid...
Just went through this after I heard belts chirping, looked in the engine bay and low and behold, wobbly crank pulley. I replaced mine with the PB1117SS Powerbond pulley from HinsonSupercars. This stock one went out at 81k miles, was going to just order another until I read how crap the GM pulleys were with failing. While I had things pulled I replaced the water pump as well last week, this coming Monday or Tuesday I will be replacing the radiator with a Dewitts all aluminum radiator because after the new water pump install the driver's side plastic tank on the radiator blew and now has a big crack in it (I assume due to pressure buildup with new seal on waterpump gasket as it had a microleak prior).
oh boy... I just lost power steering and alternator and run hot.... On inspection i found the balancer bolt finger loose.... on my 2005 Vette with 69,000 miles... Balancer seems to still be on all the way, but im afraid if it spun on crank... But gotta order part and try to do this job... Everyone on forum tells me to buy that expensive ATI balancer but it seems the PowerBond has good ratings...si im thinking im gonna order that one.
Quick, down and dirty video. Probably should mention to disconnect the battery prior to removing the alternator. Someone is going to get lite up!! lol Same color as ours - LeMan Blue, 2007 Coupe.
Why does everyone keep saying this was hard I did my buddies c5 today and it only took 4 hrs total including drilling and tapping a broken bolt. I actually found it to be pretty easy
@@DennisSwanson517 did you put the jucks under the jacking puck like this guy? From what i read it seems dangerous. If not then where did you put them? Cross frame and wood?
@@panzerwaffen2873 Old commment but honestly working on a corvette is way more intimidating than what I've done in the past (mustangs RSX miata) if for no other reason than the comparitively expensive parts and idiosyncrasies of the torque tube/ rear mount trans.
Thanks for the video! Going to add dye tomorrow to find my oil leak. I believe it is coming from the HB, but it looks like the leak is blowing back riding the the gasket seam dripping down along the way and looking like next gasket above the oil pan (the metal gasket with the oring) is leaking and eventually dripping off the back of the engine on to the passenger side exhaust pipe. Is this the symptoms any of u guys had? It is also all oily on the drivers side, but heavier on the passenger side. Was it necessary to loosen the ABS? Because I didn't see others do that in videos. Just wondering, because there are times I go, oh shit I didn't need to do that when I'm done with a project. Thanks again for the video and anyone's comments/answers.
you can move the rack over, after removing the ABS block bracket , enough to get the left side tie rod down and out the front of the subframe. then you can pull the rack out of the front left of the vehicle eliminating the subframe drop
Kind of brushed through it at the end. You need the flywheel tool in place of the starter and a nice torque wrench to pull 240ish ftlbs if using an arp bolt.
250 lbs foot of torque for a Corvette (240) not 190.. no balancer install footage? I have to pull my radiator and was thinking about trying this. Only jacked the front up. I think you need a pully puller to get that off. It could've been a really good video if you showed that part
The arp bolt has a different torque. No install footage since it just slides on with bolt torque, no keyways or anything to line up. There is footage with a 3 jaw puller taking the pulley off though. The only thing that's not there is the install of the flywheel holding tool. Was too anxious to finish I forgot to record. Thanks!
Why did you use the Power Bond PB1117 N, I'm having mine done next week but I was told to use the PB 1117SS ???Just wondering what the diff was??I'm dreading it :(
SS has a keyway and snap rings around the bonding point that prevent separation should the balancer have a failure, but youve probably figured this out many moons ago.
Omarvette yeah thanks I just got it out now when I insert the new harmonica balancer do i just insert it or do I have to put in a certain way with a rubber or something
Did you have to measure the distance the old balancer was and compare it to the new? Manual talks about measuring. In order to see on far on the crank it was on.
You don't have to do anything but put it on and torque the crank bolt down. The key is only necessary if you want to key it if you have a supercharger.
I'm doing the same thing on my C6 and I have the steering rack loose but I have not slid it out yet. I have also read to drop the carriage and pull it from the driver side. I had 2 questions. Did you have to pry the carriage down with a bar and insert a shim to keep the carriage down? Mine requires a lot of pressure with a bar to pull the carriage down. Also, did you have to bend or disconnect any of those brake lines on the drivers side to clear the steering rack coming out. I'm not sure what you did exactly with those brake lines. They are definitely in the way for me as well.
+Blake Belisle hey late reply coming through... Haha hopefully you've gotten passed this point already? If not, yes those brake lines are a B* to get out of the way. It helped to get the alternator out of the way and to remove the bolts holding the abs block down. You will need to massage those brake lines or if the way by hand. They'll bend and are pretty strong. The carriage doesn't need to be loosened but it helps. I stuck a big screw driver in between to keep the gap open. This was the hardest part of the whole r&r. Let me know if you have any other questions.
No sir, LS engines are internally balanced. Crank, flywheel and balancer are individually balanced to a certain spec for when they are assembled are within an acceptable dynamic force for the main bearings to dampen the crank vibrations. You might be referring to older sbc w a distributor and timing marks on the balancer that need to be keyed to keep it in phase w the cam for a timing light.
hey bro one more question can I use the same bolt for the harmonic balancer or do i need that arp one i also have a c6 2005 im just gonna buy the same thing u did but is the bolt really necessary
hey bro one more question can I use the same bolt for the harmonic balancer or do i need that arp one i also have a c6 2005 im just gonna buy the same thing u did but is the bolt really necessary
+rayy11gym! Not really necessary. You could probably reuse the same bolt but every time you drive the car you'll be thinking damn is that bolt going to back out. Your choice. I'd recommend it since you're saving a ton of $$ on labor.
oh nice man thanks so much im going to do this to my vette in about 2 weeks so when i tighten the crank i should take out starter put that lil peace in it and start to tighen the crank bolt ? after i tighen to its pounds put starter back on like normal correct sorry for all this questions just want to make sure im doing it right becuz i have no help from no one
Another comment wasn’t completely clear on this. Is the PB1117SS higher quality than the PB1117N? If the SS is going to last longer, I’ll get it. If not, I’ll get the N. FWIW, our C6 is a daily driven base model 2006 that is not driven hard. Thanks!
The SS should last longer from a metal perspective, as in not rust, but it still has the same rubber piece that deteriorates over time. They look nicer but not necessary to get the SS one.
There isn't much to it after that. Take off passenger cat and starter. Install the tool at the end where the starter is and tighten crank bolt to spec. Then install everything in reverse.
Need to put a harmonic balancer pin kit in it as well. That way the balancer never shifts or moves. Permanent fix!
A nut or a screw? Yeah, that'd be a bolt. Nice video! Getting ready to do the damper on the C5.
If anyone sees this NEVER get a cheap car quest or auto zone one, my bolt backed its way out and I went cheap with a doorman brand one and now 3 months latter the rubber fell apart and I’ve got to go swap it out again!
Hat tip to ya mate. Awesome job!
No need to remove alternator just did this job, pain in the ass!
Got a feeling my gf's crankpulley is wobbling on her 09. Not looking forward to this job, I'll be honest. Going to check the pulley later at my building and see. Definitely gets a vibration around 2500rpm-3500rpm. I think the torque tube could need rebuilt also but...these harmonic balancers are junk. Thanks for the vid...
Great video. Lots of work. But you saved big time on labor cost.
Oh man, easily a couple hundred $$$. It's not bad, it just takes time!
Ugh...every step of the way there were more obstacles. Good job though seeing it thru, cheers!
LOL dude, it wasn't bad until the steering rack removal. I could probably do it in a day, but yeah its a bit rough!
Just went through this after I heard belts chirping, looked in the engine bay and low and behold, wobbly crank pulley. I replaced mine with the PB1117SS Powerbond pulley from HinsonSupercars. This stock one went out at 81k miles, was going to just order another until I read how crap the GM pulleys were with failing. While I had things pulled I replaced the water pump as well last week, this coming Monday or Tuesday I will be replacing the radiator with a Dewitts all aluminum radiator because after the new water pump install the driver's side plastic tank on the radiator blew and now has a big crack in it (I assume due to pressure buildup with new seal on waterpump gasket as it had a microleak prior).
+Chris Johnson that's awesome! Let me know how you like the radiator. I'm also looking to get rid of the plastic end caps.
oh boy... I just lost power steering and alternator and run hot.... On inspection i found the balancer bolt finger loose.... on my 2005 Vette with 69,000 miles... Balancer seems to still be on all the way, but im afraid if it spun on crank... But gotta order part and try to do this job...
Everyone on forum tells me to buy that expensive ATI balancer but it seems the PowerBond has good ratings...si im thinking im gonna order that one.
do you need the removal tool because i don’t feel like taking off my car less headers? I’m trying to see if there is an alternative.
Quick, down and dirty video. Probably should mention to disconnect the battery prior to removing the alternator. Someone is going to get lite up!! lol
Same color as ours - LeMan Blue, 2007 Coupe.
Why does everyone keep saying this was hard I did my buddies c5 today and it only took 4 hrs total including drilling and tapping a broken bolt. I actually found it to be pretty easy
It is hard for people that are not use to work
Did you do it on jack stands or lift?
lsedanolg jack stands
@@DennisSwanson517 did you put the jucks under the jacking puck like this guy? From what i read it seems dangerous.
If not then where did you put them? Cross frame and wood?
@@panzerwaffen2873 Old commment but honestly working on a corvette is way more intimidating than what I've done in the past (mustangs RSX miata) if for no other reason than the comparitively expensive parts and idiosyncrasies of the torque tube/ rear mount trans.
Thanks for the video! Going to add dye tomorrow to find my oil leak. I believe it is coming from the HB, but it looks like the leak is blowing back riding the the gasket seam dripping down along the way and looking like next gasket above the oil pan (the metal gasket with the oring) is leaking and eventually dripping off the back of the engine on to the passenger side exhaust pipe. Is this the symptoms any of u guys had? It is also all oily on the drivers side, but heavier on the passenger side. Was it necessary to loosen the ABS? Because I didn't see others do that in videos. Just wondering, because there are times I go, oh shit I didn't need to do that when I'm done with a project. Thanks again for the video and anyone's comments/answers.
Replaced mine 3 months ago raced my car yesterday now its making a chirping sound im scared it might be the balencer i replaced
you can move the rack over, after removing the ABS block bracket , enough to get the left side tie rod down and out the front of the subframe. then you can pull the rack out of the front left of the vehicle eliminating the subframe drop
Oooo good tip! Just requires an alignment afterwards.
@@OmarBuilds No, R&R'ing the rack doesn't require an alignment. If you change tie rod end adjustment, THEN you'd need an alignment.
Isnt it easier to just drain and remove the radiator ?
The steering rack is in front of the balancer
Back in the 60's you never had to replace the harmonic balancer they made cars a he'll of lot better.!!!!
How do u know that harmonic balance goes bad?
It wobbles and the belt makes a squeeking noise.
My last C5 had this issue ... My actual c6 has it also ... F... It it doesn't bother me lol ...btw good job
It's surprising that this continues to happen. Oh well, break things then upgrade 😁🤙🏼. Thanks!
@@OmarBuilds lol kind of lmao .. you are welcome buddy greetings from Florida
@@OmarBuilds I replaced mine 3 months ago with a powerbond dayco...great feeling and a lot of difference driving around
how much to replace the Crankshaft seal and the same car you have the C5 Corvette
you didn't explain how you installed and torqued the new pulley (HB), that is a critical step.
Kind of brushed through it at the end. You need the flywheel tool in place of the starter and a nice torque wrench to pull 240ish ftlbs if using an arp bolt.
The ra k need to come out the passenger side so you don't destroy your brake lines by bending them back.amd forth. ..
I think removing the steering rack from the passenger side is easier the driver side with the EBS unit in the way?
The balancer actually gets in the way of the rack going that way. It's a really right fit either way.
How many miles on average before that harmonic balancer goes bad?
It's all over the place. 10k-200k
What size what the harmonic balancer bolt ?
I have purchased the same hb and there is no top dead center mark how did you orientate the hb when you reinstalled it?
+justin evans you don't need to orient it any special way. You just install it.
How is it holding on till this day. Any problems with the harmonic balancer?
Sees close to redline everyday and still in tact like day 1!
how did you unbolt the lines connected to the steering gear box or whatever?
It was an open end box wrench.
How is that balancer holding up? About to change my dads with an ATI super dampener. Debating on paying a shop or trying my hand at it.
Super steady. ~20k miles so far.
250 lbs foot of torque for a Corvette (240) not 190.. no balancer install footage? I have to pull my radiator and was thinking about trying this. Only jacked the front up. I think you need a pully puller to get that off. It could've been a really good video if you showed that part
The arp bolt has a different torque. No install footage since it just slides on with bolt torque, no keyways or anything to line up. There is footage with a 3 jaw puller taking the pulley off though. The only thing that's not there is the install of the flywheel holding tool. Was too anxious to finish I forgot to record. Thanks!
Why did you use the Power Bond PB1117 N, I'm having mine done next week but I was told to use the PB 1117SS ???Just wondering what the diff was??I'm dreading it :(
+Bob V cheaper alternative. Same stuff but the SS just looks better. You'll like that one too.
SS has a keyway and snap rings around the bonding point that prevent separation should the balancer have a failure, but youve probably figured this out many moons ago.
Is there a video installing the FLYWHEEL HOLDING TOOL? My husband is replacing the harmonic balance on his 200 corvette, but is stock in this part.
+Dania Menendez it's 4 bolts to take off the passenger side catalytic converter. Then two bolts for the starter and I think two electrical connectors.
How does the removal tool work on it? I dont see any holes to put bolts in for the tool to work?
You have to take out the starter.
hey brother what harmonic balancer puller did you use
+rayy11gym! I think it was a small 2 ton 3 jaw puller rental from AutoZone.
Omarvette yeah thanks I just got it out now when I insert the new harmonica balancer do i just insert it or do I have to put in a certain way with a rubber or something
+rayy11gym! Just push it on. It doesn't matter how you clock it.
aight man thxx!!
Omarvette one more questions man to take of starter do i have to move the muffler?
Did you have to measure the distance the old balancer was and compare it to the new? Manual talks about measuring. In order to see on far on the crank it was on.
Nah, I just made sure it was fully seated and torqued. The belts lined up just fine. Haven't thrown one yet, 15k miles
Omarvette so there is a “point” where the pulley stops and is seated? Thanks for the response
100% correct!
What is the life expectancy of the harmonic balancer on the 2006 corvette?
It's all over the place. 30-130k 🤷♂️
Im at 50k and need a new one
I'm at 49k
Hey I got the PB1117SS do I have to tap it? Since it has the keyway grooved into the harmonic balancer?
You don't have to do anything but put it on and torque the crank bolt down. The key is only necessary if you want to key it if you have a supercharger.
Did you loosen all 4 cross member bolts or just the 2 on he driver side?
All 4 or it won't budge.
Does a bad one make belt squeak
Yes it chirps
I'm doing the same thing on my C6 and I have the steering rack loose but I have not slid it out yet. I have also read to drop the carriage and pull it from the driver side. I had 2 questions. Did you have to pry the carriage down with a bar and insert a shim to keep the carriage down? Mine requires a lot of pressure with a bar to pull the carriage down. Also, did you have to bend or disconnect any of those brake lines on the drivers side to clear the steering rack coming out. I'm not sure what you did exactly with those brake lines. They are definitely in the way for me as well.
+Blake Belisle hey late reply coming through... Haha hopefully you've gotten passed this point already? If not, yes those brake lines are a B* to get out of the way. It helped to get the alternator out of the way and to remove the bolts holding the abs block down. You will need to massage those brake lines or if the way by hand. They'll bend and are pretty strong. The carriage doesn't need to be loosened but it helps. I stuck a big screw driver in between to keep the gap open. This was the hardest part of the whole r&r. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I've got it done now. Thanks for the info anyway though. Hope yours is running good
Is there is certain position when you put the damper back on
Nope, just push it on. Its already balanced from the manufacturer and there are no TDC marks.
No sir, LS engines are internally balanced. Crank, flywheel and balancer are individually balanced to a certain spec for when they are assembled are within an acceptable dynamic force for the main bearings to dampen the crank vibrations. You might be referring to older sbc w a distributor and timing marks on the balancer that need to be keyed to keep it in phase w the cam for a timing light.
How long would you say the job took you?
Probably 10 hrs? Im sure someone that’s done it before can do it in about half the time.
man thank you so much so u have to take out starter for this job ?
+rayy11gym! It's the best way to hold the crank when you tighten the crank bolt.
hey bro one more question can I use the same bolt for the harmonic balancer or do i need that arp one i also have a c6 2005 im just gonna buy the same thing u did but is the bolt really necessary
hey bro one more question can I use the same bolt for the harmonic balancer or do i need that arp one i also have a c6 2005 im just gonna buy the same thing u did but is the bolt really necessary
+rayy11gym! Not really necessary. You could probably reuse the same bolt but every time you drive the car you'll be thinking damn is that bolt going to back out. Your choice. I'd recommend it since you're saving a ton of $$ on labor.
yeah im buying it lol thx again is your car stock?
Why does this happen to these cars?
What's the tool called that you got from amazon?
+Mason Floyd link is in the description bruddah. Just search LS flywheel tool.
Arp bolt is 235
what year is your corvette
+rayy11gym! 05. Should be similar for c5s.
oh nice man thanks so much im going to do this to my vette in about 2 weeks so when i tighten the crank i should take out starter put that lil peace in it and start to tighen the crank bolt ? after i tighen to its pounds put starter back on like normal correct sorry for all this questions just want to make sure im doing it right becuz i have no help from no one
+rayy11gym! Yup that's pretty much it. Hardest part is going to be getting the steering rack out. Just have a ton of patience! Good luck!
Omarvette man thanks bro i appreciate it so much !!
Another comment wasn’t completely clear on this. Is the PB1117SS higher quality than the PB1117N?
If the SS is going to last longer, I’ll get it. If not, I’ll get the N.
FWIW, our C6 is a daily driven base model 2006 that is not driven hard.
Thanks!
The SS should last longer from a metal perspective, as in not rust, but it still has the same rubber piece that deteriorates over time. They look nicer but not necessary to get the SS one.
Ac belt
Useless video. He goes from pulling the balancer to a running engine. What happened in between ?
There isn't much to it after that. Take off passenger cat and starter. Install the tool at the end where the starter is and tighten crank bolt to spec. Then install everything in reverse.