Proceed at your own risk as i am not a professional, but me and my son have saved lots of money repairing cars ourselves. Good luck at this under $200 fix!
Brian, finally got around to changing mine out. If I hadn't seen your video it would have taken much longer. I didn't think the rack was going to come out. The two problems I ran into was getting the brakes lines out of the way and I couldn't break the HB Bolt loose. I ended up grabbing the passengers side of the HB with an 18" Pipe wrench and using a pull handle (after heating the bolt head up) to break the bolt loose. (Neither of my impacts would break it loose.) Thanks!
Great video thanks. My 2005 Stock z51 HB was replaced at 22 miles(Dealership) and then at 46,000 miles (Dealership) and just now at 62,000 miles By me and Pro mechanic (mostly him, I held light and bought lunch :)). The bolt that is supposed to be at 240 ftlbs was at fingertight !!!! Which explains the sudden onslaught of Balancer wobble. Hard to believe it came loose. We suspect that it wasn't torqued properly the last repair. Harmonic balancer scored beyond description even though my car was parked immediately upon serpentine belt slippage . Thank goodness the car was shut off as the destruction of engine compartment would have been severe had the H Balancer come off. Also note that during the replacement ,the HB had shifted from its original position (anywhere from 0-360 degrees rotation). I was concerned about putting the new one on in the correct position. I Suppose it doesn't matter with the factory HB as long as the engine crank is balanced (it is ) and the harmonic is balanced( it is). If you have a hoist and support the engine (as Stephen described below), dropping the K member allows access without removing as many components. We (hmmm.... "Tige T " ) was able to complete in 2.5 hrs this way. Thanks again for posting the video !!!!
My son put oem on another 2005 with a supercharger and it vibrated badly! Had to remove and order aftermarket. My opinion if you drive a vette like me and just cruise or fast roll on, oem is fine. Aftermarket balancer is twice+ cost but better for higher hp.
i gotta do my c6, 2005.... Lost power steering and charging... After i inspected i found bolt is finger loose but balancer seems to be still on all the way.... Was told on forum crank will be bad then... But crank is alot harder than balancer... I guess i gotta order parts and hope when i get it apart that crank is ok.
removed wheel spash on drivers side, 15mm and 18mm shorty wrenches. It takes a while, but one is accessed through the front and the other throught the wheel area. can only move nut slowly.
On the other p1 c6 I did I just dropped kmember and put a powerbond balancer and pinned the crank. Doing it by dropping the kmember you can do entire job in a few hrs. I've done a few since the first few I pulled rack on. Dropping kmember is way easier. Hit my page up on Facebook (Rock Solid Motorsports). Scroll through the pics you'll see details of things removed. Easy easy easy.
Any way to do this, Brian, by letting the rack hang, or does it indeed have to be taken off? My 06 has been cammed and they put on an underdrive crank pulley that lets the voltage go too low sometimes, so I want to go back to a stock balancer. Very helpful video - we sell crate motors where I work but I've never pulled a balancer in a C6 lol.
good video. - same procedure as c5 vette. so, I replaced mine about 4 years ago with a stock one and new bolt, followed all gm procedures. did it a 2nd time a few weeks ago, but decided I'd had enough of that stupid inferior design. crank pin kit, fluidampr, ARP bolt. I don't want to keep wasting my time on that every 4 or 5 years, with risk of engine damage - crank snout damage. enough of that OEM nonsense part.
FYI.....I didnt show the pulling and install procedure for the balancer itself....just the tear down of the vette to get to the pulley unit. If you dont know how to use a crank puller or a simple install tool you probably should let someone do the install for you who knows what they are doing.
Brian, finally got around to changing mine out. If I hadn't seen your video it would have taken much longer. I didn't think the rack was going to come out. The two problems I ran into was getting the brakes lines out of the way and I couldn't break the HB Bolt loose. I ended up grabbing the passengers side of the HB with an 18" Pipe wrench and using a pull handle (after heating the bolt head up) to break the bolt loose. (Neither of my impacts would break it loose.) Thanks!
Thanks for posting this sir. I have the EXACT same car on jack stands right now. Two pressure lines on the gear box and out it comes.
Great video thanks.
My 2005 Stock z51 HB was replaced at 22 miles(Dealership) and then at 46,000 miles (Dealership) and just now at 62,000 miles By me and Pro mechanic (mostly him, I held light and bought lunch :)).
The bolt that is supposed to be at 240 ftlbs was at fingertight !!!! Which explains the sudden onslaught of Balancer wobble.
Hard to believe it came loose. We suspect that it wasn't torqued properly the last repair.
Harmonic balancer scored beyond description even though my car was parked immediately upon serpentine belt slippage .
Thank goodness the car was shut off as the destruction of engine compartment would have been severe had the H Balancer come off.
Also note that during the replacement ,the HB had shifted from its original position (anywhere from 0-360 degrees rotation). I was concerned about putting the new one on in the correct position.
I Suppose it doesn't matter with the factory HB as long as the engine crank is balanced (it is ) and the harmonic is balanced( it is).
If you have a hoist and support the engine (as Stephen described below), dropping the K member allows access without removing as many components.
We (hmmm.... "Tige T " ) was able to complete in 2.5 hrs this way.
Thanks again for posting the video !!!!
I'll be doing this on friday, so this is a huge help. I'll throw up a video when I'm done too, in case there are any differences on a 2005.
gotpancit damn I woulda wanted to see your video man
Great video Brian. This video is very helpful to anyone who is attempting this job. Thanks for this!
My son put oem on another 2005 with a supercharger and it vibrated badly! Had to remove and order aftermarket. My opinion if you drive a vette like me and just cruise or fast roll on, oem is fine. Aftermarket balancer is twice+ cost but better for higher hp.
i gotta do my c6, 2005.... Lost power steering and charging... After i inspected i found bolt is finger loose but balancer seems to be still on all the way.... Was told on forum crank will be bad then... But crank is alot harder than balancer... I guess i gotta order parts and hope when i get it apart that crank is ok.
removed wheel spash on drivers side, 15mm and 18mm shorty wrenches. It takes a while, but one is accessed through the front and the other throught the wheel area. can only move nut slowly.
Excellent Video Brian.
On the other p1 c6 I did I just dropped kmember and put a powerbond balancer and pinned the crank. Doing it by dropping the kmember you can do entire job in a few hrs. I've done a few since the first few I pulled rack on. Dropping kmember is way easier. Hit my page up on Facebook (Rock Solid Motorsports). Scroll through the pics you'll see details of things removed. Easy easy easy.
Great video. It is very tight accessing the rack & pinion supply line nuts to remove them. What technique did you use to remove them?
Any way to do this, Brian, by letting the rack hang, or does it indeed have to be taken off? My 06 has been cammed and they put on an underdrive crank pulley that lets the voltage go too low sometimes, so I want to go back to a stock balancer. Very helpful video - we sell crate motors where I work but I've never pulled a balancer in a C6 lol.
Thanks for the info...
good video. - same procedure as c5 vette. so, I replaced mine about 4 years ago with a stock one and new bolt, followed all gm procedures. did it a 2nd time a few weeks ago, but decided I'd had enough of that stupid inferior design. crank pin kit, fluidampr, ARP bolt. I don't want to keep wasting my time on that every 4 or 5 years, with risk of engine damage - crank snout damage. enough of that OEM nonsense part.
Hi Uncle Brian. How are you? We've never even talked before!
How did you prevent the motor from spinning when doing the torque?
Leave in Reverse gear with E brake on
Thanks! very helpful
I want that Kubota tractor.
FYI.....I didnt show the pulling and install procedure for the balancer itself....just the tear down of the vette to get to the pulley unit. If you dont know how to use a crank puller or a simple install tool you probably should let someone do the install for you who knows what they are doing.
what size socket did you use for the engine cradle
21mm deep socket on c5. I'd bet it's the same on c6
Is there is certain position to put the harmonic balancer ?
Amir Sarofeim no unless it's pinned
You don't have to all that.
Indeed you do. No room on a Y body to pull the damper.
Ditch the OEM balancer for good - its a cheap flawed piece of trash. Aftermarket API Harmonic balancer and bolt = problem solved permently
I agree....just taking the cheapest way out on mine lol
this guy's voice tho