***I've seen other people change the wheel bearing with this press tool while keeping the steering knuckle on the car. If you want to go that route, you might need to borrow a slide hammer from AutoZone to remove the wheel hub. Another option: If you want to avoid doing all this work, you can buy the whole steering knuckle assembly with a new bearing already pressed in. Check the video description for more information on that. CHECK VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR LINKS+UPDATES+CORRECTIONS+MORE INFO***
One , if not , the best diy video I have ever seen. I subscribed! Thanks for this. I've been working on cars for 15 years plus but I changed careers. So I'll just go with changing the whole assembly instead of only the bearing lol
Thanks for the feedback! What career did you change to? On the TSX only the rear bearings are sold as an assembly with the hub. In the front, you have to do all this hard work.
Thanks for the straight forward video, my lug studs broke off today so I get to attempt this tomorrow. Wont be as easy due to being in the rust belt, but I have access to a 20 ton press
You're just replacing a lug stud on the wheel hub? I have never had to do that job. I have seen videos where people remove the brake caliper assembly, remove the old stud, then grind a new stud down so it can fit through the back of the hole.
@@ChavezDIY No, I replaced the whole hub assembly. Me being in Iowa, my wheel speed sensor broke off, the snap ring was rusted in the knuckle and took a lot of convincing to get off, and the dust shield screws were nearly rounded trying to remove them with a regular screwdriver. Took about 8 hours total, and I left the sensor out until tomorrow afternoon
Best video I have seen so far. I installed mine last night and had I seen this video, I would have saved some time and angst during the hub reinstall. Fortunately, I didn't ruin the bearing.
Thanks for the feedback! It's a heck of a job for DIYers. The first time I ever did it, I had no issues, but then the second and third I make mistakes which helped me prepare for this video, haha. Cheers to your new wheel bearing!
Subscribed. I bought the bearing, hub, and bearing replacement kit on amazon (about $80 for kit and all; not Honda but Dorman. Hub came with new snap ring and axle nut). Everything went smoothly, it took me about 4 hours going super slow and being careful. the one problem was that the axle dropped hard onto the lower control arm when i pulled off the knuckle. I didn't see that an invisible pinhole opened up in the axel boot near the boot clamp (the band that holds the boot on). After i put it all back together and drove it for about a week, there was grease spun all over inside my wheel. I had to take the tire off and found the hole in the boot. I ordered a new axel and replaced it the next weekend. Had to borrow a torque wrench and 36mm socket. EZ job compared to wheel bearing. My fault for being careless. Now the TSX drives great no problem. No alignment was needed from I could tell. Thanks!
That’s awesome that you were able to replace your own wheel bearings. It’s a heck of a job even for a DIYer like myself, I always stress out when I have to do it! I also take my time, its not something you want to rush. Sucks to hear about that torn axle boot, when they get old they can get easily damaged. I’ve also had to change the boots on my axles and was able to record some footage to make a video on it. Do you still have your OEM axle? What axle brand did you go with?
@@ChavezDIY yeah I was able to do it, nothing was rusty or stuck. The hub popped out easy using wood blocks, a mini sledge, and socket. the bearing was more difficult to remove but i just followed your steps using the kit. When I put it back together, I froze the bearing for about 2 hours or so and it went in no problem with some grease. I'm on budget so I bought a new aftermarket axle (TRQ brand) from parts geek for $74. It was completely solid (edit: i mean heavy duty like the factory one i removed). There are cheaper ones available online for about $45. I will report back if any of these parts: axel (TRQ), hub (Dorman), or bearing (National) doesn't last that long.
@@patrickstich5532 That's good to hear you had a good experience with this job overall. The consensus is that freezing the bearing helps to press it in, but I always forget to do it. The Dorman hub and the National bearing should hold up good. I don't know anything about TRQ but Iet me know if you have any problems with that axle. Thanks!
For anyone lurking the comments - the bolts you took off from the Brake line brackets, those can be used in the two holes. Just tighten them evenly - couple turns on one then go to the other, rinse and repeat.
Miguel, great videos. Stumbled on them last year when I had to replace my 05 TSX motor/transmission mounts. Now the ball joint on my steering knuckle broke, way to start off 2021. This vid helps in knowing what I need before I start replacing. I know I'll be back to watch this one again, or other 05 TSX work. Love the car cause not to hard to work on.
Thanks for the feedback on the videos! My goal is to help people work on their own cars. As the car ages the amount of work needed on the car will increase, haha. Sucks to hear about that lower ball joint. Yes this video will come in handy for removing the steering knuckle to get access to the lower ball joint. I had the chance to make the ball joint video but I never did. You can remove the ball joint with the ball joint press, or socket and hammer, or a 2 jaw puller. Easiest method is to remove the boot of the ball joint, clean the off the grease, insert an impact socket on the stud, and pound it out with a sledgehammer, just be careful with the rotor dust shield as it can get in the way, haha. I have also removed it with a two-jaw puller but you'll need to use an impact and youll damage some of the threads on the puller if its a small one. I tried the ball joint press but I couldn't get the top cup to stay in place. To press the ball joint back in its easy using the ball joint press, you can borrow it from your nearby auto parts store. I also have some work to do on my TSX. My starter is failing, the rack and pinion feels worn out, and a few other things.
Great video, I feel confident to take on this task, I always have my uncle do it for me I bring him the knuckle and he does everything, but I think it's time for me to do this
Thanks! It's good to challenge yourself to accomplish something you've never done before. Take your time with it. If you fail, get some help or try again.
Uncle Uncle Uncle, I love my uncle, he had done all my cars , he just moved back to Puerto Rico and now it's time for me to start doing my own things, he taught me a lot, but with this video, I'm more that positive I can do this job
Great video Miguel, very informative. I may try to attempt this myself. I have done the arms in the front and brakes so I know nothing is rusted. Just getting the courage to handle all this with that bearing tool is all I need.
Thanks for the feedback! That bearing press tool comes in handy and pays for itself over time. You want to take your time, don't rush, and be ready to take breaks as needed or even give yourself a second day if needed. The first time I did it, I was cautious and everything went well. When I recorded this video, I was overconfident and got distracted with the neighbor coming over to chat, and that's when I fucked up.
@@ChavezDIY my snap ring was very rusted. I'm in the process of doing this now. I'm currently soaking the bearing in PB blaster. It's rusted on good. I couldn't get the puller to budge
@@tonggi Oh man, I hate dealing with rust. PB Blaster is my preferred penetrating fluid. I've never had to use a torch to remove a bolt or nut but I keep it in mind as a last resort.
@@ChavezDIY I was able to get it off. Unfortunately I had to use a 3" saw then a hammer punch to vibrate it off. All bearings are off. New are one. Waiting for circlips at dealer tomorrow in the morning. Not bad at all with the tool. Just some elbow grease. This video definitely raised my confidence to tackle the job. So far this whole job including parts for front and rear bearings plus tools only cost me $160!
Man O man! Great job on this video. I haven't done it yet but after searching I feel sure I can. One of the, if not THE, best how 2 videos I have ever watched. Again, Great job.
You're welcome! I appreciate the feedback, it helps me to know if the videos I make are helpful to others. I had no intentions of making a video for the front wheel bearing change. But after I botched two installations, I had more confidence, haha. The opportunity was there to make a video so I went with it.
You're welcome! It's a tedious job. If you don't want to do all that work you can buy the whole steering knuckle with the bearing already pressed in. I have some info on that in the video description.
Thanks for the tip! I learned that after I did this job, haha. I also learned that I could have purchased the whole new steering knuckle with the bearing and wheel hub already pressed in, haha.
There are some tests you can do to check your bearings but most work only when the bearings are very worn out. The main symptom I had was the humming noise or grumbling noise that's noticeable when coasting. It's similar to the wind noise you get when you tilt open your moon roof (with all Windows closed) and you're at 40+mph speeds. But you'll hear this sound when your windows and moon roof are closed. Means the bearing grease has dried and the bearings have more friction. You'll also waste more gas because the bearings provide resistance. It's not an emergency repair at that point but I like to keep my car well maintained.
Thank you for the feedback! I do have more TSX content planned, its just challenging to make videos with schools closed and my son is at home always wanting my attention, haha.
Great video. I'm in the process of doing this job. I have everything needed except the press kit. In the video you have the Powerbuilt kit but in the decription its Orion. Are they the same but with different names? Want to make the right purchase
Thanks! Unfortunately the Powerbuilt kit I used in the video is no longer available on Amazon. So I linked a similar product that has good reviews and a reasonable price.
You're welcome! Its not a easy job, but if you pace yourself and pay attention to the details, you can do it. It was a workout pressing in the bearing with my 1/2 inch drive ratchet, I think it would have been easier using a ratchet with a longer handle. I plan to upgrade to a ratchet with a longer handle.
I don't have experience changing the wheel studs, I've never had to change one. From looking at the frame you mentioned at 9:12 you will still have to grind down the new stud to get it in.
@Miguel Chavez DIY Do you think I may also need to grind down a bit of the axle joint as well? Thanks. If you ever do change them, please let me or us know how. Stay safe bro.
@@vi_EviL_iv You should be able to do it by just grinding the new stud. Search for honda accord front wheel stud videos to see how other people did it.
@Miguel Chavez DIY Yeah I've done that. Some have grinned just under the bolt and the bolt itself. Hoping when I take a look at it while doing my rotors, it'll be just the bolt only. That or when ever I gotta do my bearing, I'll get it done then. Got some ARP in my stock.
You're welcome! The front wheel bearings on the TSX come separate from the wheel hub. The rear wheel bearings come all in one as an assembly. I have not seen any front wheel bearings that already come with the bearing pressed onto the wheel hub. You can't press both into the steering knuckle at the same time for a couple of reasons. The front wheel bearing needs to be locked into place with the giant C-clip and you won't be able to insert the C-clip on the wheel hub after you press both the bearing and hub in at the same time. Another reason you can press both in together is because the wheel hub diameter is larger than the wheel bearing. When you press in the wheel bearing into the bore, you need to press it in by the bearing outer race and the wheel hub will be blocking your ability to press in the wheel bearing by the outer race...so you'll end up pushing out the inner race and you'll damage the bearing in the process.
Thanks! I bought the tool on Amazon. The exact same one I have is no longer available but I have a similar one listed in the video description. OrionMotorTech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Press amzn.to/2Wz0Nev
Very Noice ! But there's a wheel bearing protector that's supposed to go between the ring and the bearing itself, no? I ordered some on rockauto alongside my bearings and other parts
No, there isn't a wheel bearing protector. Rock Auto doesn't have a wheel bearing protector listed in the wheel bearing section for this car. If you see one, post a link so I can see what you're referring to.
@@louisfredgagnon that part number is an axle seal. It goes on the transmission where the axle enters the transmission. You replace this part when the transmission fluid starts to leak out from the seal.
Any time! Yeah, the front bearings are much more complicated to replace compared to the rear bearings. If you only have one car, that increases the pressure to do it right. I dread replacing the front wheel bearings, haha! I can do it, but I don't like to deal with all the issues that can pop up. To replace the lower ball joint, you also have to remove the whole steering knuckle the same way.
If I wanted to just replace the wheel hub for new studs, do I have to go through all these steps or is there a way to remove just the hub itself..? I cant find any video anywhere. And I dont want to do the ghetto way of cutting and chipping the studs to fit it in and out.
You don't have to replace the wheel hub if you need to just replace the wheel studs. Tire shops should be able to do this for you. To do it yourself you need to remove the wheel, then whack the stud in towards the car with a sledgehammer. The stud should pop out from the rear of the hub. A new stud will press in when you tighten your lug nuts or you can use some spacers and a lug nut to press in the new stud. One issue you may run into is finding a replacement stud that fits. Not all studs are the same size from the rear of the hub. I have two different brand hubs for my car but the wheel studs were not interchangable. I think ChrisFix has a video on replacing wheel studs.
@@ChavezDIY thanks for the response. The local tire shops are asking $200 above to replace just the studs... I have watched a few videos and they do indeed mention banging out the old studs but when inserting the new ones, they all say to file it down or cut the edge to make it go in. I wanted to find a way to just replace the whole thing rather than taking time to file each studs down. The rear hubs aren't as complicated as the front ones so I'm trying to find more info on to replace the front hubs without having to do much labor.
That's an excessive price, that's probably the cost of new hubs. Sound like an upsell. My friend had a tire shop accidentally break a stud and they fixed it without a problem. Filing it down will take forever. You're better off using an angle grinder or dremel tool with cut off wheel, which will cost you about $30 for either one. Alternately you can take the studs to a machine shop or exhaust shop and have them grind it down.
So I just recently got the wheel bearing changed and for some reason when I got it back the wheel where I replaced it was making a honking noise any ideas on why ?
Not really because the bearing is pressed on the hub. When you remove the hub, the inner race of the bearing separates from the bearing and will be stuck onto the hub. Once the inner race of the bearing is separated from the rest of the bearing, you will not be able to press that inner race back onto the bearing without problems. The bearing won't function the same. You can try but I don't recommend it. If you are replacing the hub, might as well put on a new bearing. Its a challenging job. The way to avoid all this work is to buy the steering knuckle with hub and bearing already pressed in. Check the video description for more information.
The wheel studs can be replaced by themselves without having to remove the hub. There are videos on TH-cam on how to do that. The studs are pressed in but can be hammered out individually and then press in a new stud. If you can't do it yourself, take it to a tire shop and ask how much they charge.
@@ChavezDIY It's not that simple. You can't do that on my tsx. I just realized you weren't working on the last get tsx. I have a 2012 tsx and the studs can't be hammered out. You have to take the hub off. I had the same issue on the rear but you can hammer those out. The front is completely different and a pain in my neck for something so simple. I just want to know if I take off the hub could I reinstall it onto the same bearing? My bearing is perfectly fine I don't need to replace those.
@@Yeyitocuerito1987 Yes, I have the first generation TSX. Why can you not do that on your second generation TSX? Are the studs welded in? I know the front hubs have a smaller gap to work with and some people have to trim the new stud to get it to fit. The answer to your question is no. You can't reuse the bearing once you separate the inner race from it.
Yes, I believe its going to be similar because the ILX also has a double wishbone suspension. The lower ball joint has a different design on the ILX but the principles are the same. You might want to find some ILX specific videos if you can. the ILX is a nice looking car =)
Thanks for the sub! I hate long intros that other youtubers use, haha. I figured I don't need a long intro if my purpose is to help others by providing information.
@@jessess3958 1A Auto sells the complete kit for the Honda Accord, it should be the same part for your TSX because the TSX is based off the accord and is called the Accord in europe. Contact them and find out before you order. www.1aauto.com/2003-07-honda-accord-front-driver-side-suspension-knuckle-kit-with-steering-knuckle/i/1aaxx00271?f=1862532&y=2006&gclid=CjwKCAjw3K2XBhAzEiwAmmgrAsOiVhPnxYgYymWeebEdjozyYf0vehW4ne1-dqiO1stWg-1SENe2hBoC_k4QAvD_BwE
I'm not sure. The milwaukee impact that I have is rated at like 1,000 lbs. Be prepare to use a breaker bar and pipe extension for leverage if your impact wrench doesn't work for this.
The wheel bearing inner race is made of two halves, you can see them in the thumbnail of this video. When you separate the hub from the steering knuckle, one half of the old bearing inner race remains stuck on the hub. That is what I cut off from the wheel hub in order to reuse the wheel hub. The new wheel bearing already comes with the inner races.
No. The piece that I cut off from the hub is half of the inner race of the bearing. The inner race of the bearing is split into two parts. You can actually see the the two inner races in the thumbnail image for this video. When you remove the bearing from the hub, one half of the inner race stays on the hub and you'll have to remove it in order to press in a new bearing.
I didn't cut the wheel hub. The inner portion of the wheel bearing is known as the inner race and there are two halves to it. When you separate the wheel hub from the bearing/steering knuckle bore, one half of the inner race remains stuck on the wheel hub. You need to remove that inner race in order to reuse the wheel hub. But if you are using brand new wheel hubs, then you don't need to remove the inner race. So what I cut was the half of the inner race that was stuck on the wheel hub.
That sucks! I feel bad when I see cars on the road that a have a separated ball joint. How old was the ball joint? Are you going to repair it yourself?
Go to your local auto parts store and borrow it from them. Auto zone, pep boys, O Reilly and others have a tool loan program. It's free to borrow but they'll charge your card and then return your money when you return the tool. That's how they ensure that people bring back the tool.
What mods have you done to the tsx? I installed thr plm header (crappy fitment & leaky slipjoints) I had an exhaust shop weld the slip joints for me, then had the test pipe portion cut and welded to a 3" flex pipe to a 3" thunderbolt high flow catalytic converter with welded o2 bung for the secondary o2 sensor, then a 3" vibrant 18" resonator to a 3" vibrant ultra quiet resonator, 3" exhaust piping to a 3" vibrant high power flat black stealth muffler. Check it out, its on my channel.
That's a lot of exhaust mods you have done to the TSX. How did the PLM headers hold up after you got the slip joints welded? Mods I have done include: short ram intake, Throttle Body bypass mod, thermal gasket for TB and intake manifold, ingalls engine torque damper, Unorthodox Racing pulleys, DC sports exhaust headers, test pipe in place of catalytic converter, H&R front and rear sway bar upgrades, Eibach lowering springs with Koni adjustable shocks, camber adjustment ball joints in front, camber adjustment arms for rear, Motegi lighter wheels, 225 45 17 summer tires, and the Hondata Reflash.
I don't think you'll get a leak from where its welded. Look out for cracks in other places that can develop over time. I went back to the stock headers because I got tired of dealing with issues with the aftermarket headers. The stock headers are sturdy and have a bracket that bolts to the back of the engine to hold it firm. In addition, the flex pipe is there to account for any flexibility. None of the aftermarket headers I have seen incorporate the bracket that holds the exhaust manifold to the back of the engine, thus there is more movement and less stability of the aftermarket headers overall.
This seem like a big job, you think it will cost alot of money for a mancanic to do it. Im looking at acura tsx the owners says front bearing replacement and keyless FOB replacement
I'll have to try that method next time. I saw EricTheCarGuy mount the hub on a tool where you can spin it, he torched the race and it eventually fell off.
Haha. Do you live in an area with heavy rust? Using PB blaster is as bad as it gets for me. I haven't had to use the torch method. My mother in law had some seized rotors and I had to use the bolt, nut and washer method to press them off, but that's not common.
unplug the sensor from the engine bay and remove the entire sensor and wire with the knuckle. Let it soak in some PB blaster then lightly tap it out with a small punch.
Fakkk! it happens! It's happened to me too. You can still try to put it back together but it won't work the same, might have some rubbing inside and won't be smooth as new. When I messed up my bearing I had to run to AutoZone to get a new bearing, it hurt my wallet and my ego, haha. That's when I decided to make this video to help other people out.
@@CaptainRexCT-7567 Why do you have to do it over again? Your alignment can be thrown off any time you have to disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
It you still have this car keep it bc they are type r k24 dtune from the factory Honda dirty little secret and they are going up in value and soon to be classic cars bc the k24 they have
Either buy the tools or just buy the knuckle and bearing already assembled. In the video description I mention a website that sells the knuckle with the bearing already pressed in. Check it out. You can also search Google for other auto parts sites that may sell everything already assembled.
***I've seen other people change the wheel bearing with this press tool while keeping the steering knuckle on the car. If you want to go that route, you might need to borrow a slide hammer from AutoZone to remove the wheel hub. Another option: If you want to avoid doing all this work, you can buy the whole steering knuckle assembly with a new bearing already pressed in. Check the video description for more information on that. CHECK VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR LINKS+UPDATES+CORRECTIONS+MORE INFO***
One , if not , the best diy video I have ever seen. I subscribed! Thanks for this. I've been working on cars for 15 years plus but I changed careers. So I'll just go with changing the whole assembly instead of only the bearing lol
Thanks for the feedback! What career did you change to? On the TSX only the rear bearings are sold as an assembly with the hub. In the front, you have to do all this hard work.
Thanks for the straight forward video, my lug studs broke off today so I get to attempt this tomorrow. Wont be as easy due to being in the rust belt, but I have access to a 20 ton press
You're just replacing a lug stud on the wheel hub? I have never had to do that job. I have seen videos where people remove the brake caliper assembly, remove the old stud, then grind a new stud down so it can fit through the back of the hole.
@@ChavezDIY No, I replaced the whole hub assembly. Me being in Iowa, my wheel speed sensor broke off, the snap ring was rusted in the knuckle and took a lot of convincing to get off, and the dust shield screws were nearly rounded trying to remove them with a regular screwdriver. Took about 8 hours total, and I left the sensor out until tomorrow afternoon
Best video I have seen so far. I installed mine last night and had I seen this video, I would have saved some time and angst during the hub reinstall. Fortunately, I didn't ruin the bearing.
Thanks for the feedback! It's a heck of a job for DIYers. The first time I ever did it, I had no issues, but then the second and third I make mistakes which helped me prepare for this video, haha. Cheers to your new wheel bearing!
Subscribed. I bought the bearing, hub, and bearing replacement kit on amazon (about $80 for kit and all; not Honda but Dorman. Hub came with new snap ring and axle nut). Everything went smoothly, it took me about 4 hours going super slow and being careful. the one problem was that the axle dropped hard onto the lower control arm when i pulled off the knuckle. I didn't see that an invisible pinhole opened up in the axel boot near the boot clamp (the band that holds the boot on). After i put it all back together and drove it for about a week, there was grease spun all over inside my wheel. I had to take the tire off and found the hole in the boot. I ordered a new axel and replaced it the next weekend. Had to borrow a torque wrench and 36mm socket. EZ job compared to wheel bearing. My fault for being careless. Now the TSX drives great no problem. No alignment was needed from I could tell. Thanks!
That’s awesome that you were able to replace your own wheel bearings. It’s a heck of a job even for a DIYer like myself, I always stress out when I have to do it! I also take my time, its not something you want to rush. Sucks to hear about that torn axle boot, when they get old they can get easily damaged. I’ve also had to change the boots on my axles and was able to record some footage to make a video on it. Do you still have your OEM axle? What axle brand did you go with?
@@ChavezDIY yeah I was able to do it, nothing was rusty or stuck. The hub popped out easy using wood blocks, a mini sledge, and socket. the bearing was more difficult to remove but i just followed your steps using the kit. When I put it back together, I froze the bearing for about 2 hours or so and it went in no problem with some grease.
I'm on budget so I bought a new aftermarket axle (TRQ brand) from parts geek for $74. It was completely solid (edit: i mean heavy duty like the factory one i removed). There are cheaper ones available online for about $45. I will report back if any of these parts: axel (TRQ), hub (Dorman), or bearing (National) doesn't last that long.
@@patrickstich5532 That's good to hear you had a good experience with this job overall. The consensus is that freezing the bearing helps to press it in, but I always forget to do it. The Dorman hub and the National bearing should hold up good. I don't know anything about TRQ but Iet me know if you have any problems with that axle. Thanks!
For anyone lurking the comments - the bolts you took off from the Brake line brackets, those can be used in the two holes. Just tighten them evenly - couple turns on one then go to the other, rinse and repeat.
A hero I didn't know I needed ^
Thanks for your honesty. This is the most helpful video I've seen.
It's not an easy job. Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful!
Miguel, great videos. Stumbled on them last year when I had to replace my 05 TSX motor/transmission mounts. Now the ball joint on my steering knuckle broke, way to start off 2021. This vid helps in knowing what I need before I start replacing. I know I'll be back to watch this one again, or other 05 TSX work. Love the car cause not to hard to work on.
Thanks for the feedback on the videos! My goal is to help people work on their own cars. As the car ages the amount of work needed on the car will increase, haha. Sucks to hear about that lower ball joint. Yes this video will come in handy for removing the steering knuckle to get access to the lower ball joint. I had the chance to make the ball joint video but I never did. You can remove the ball joint with the ball joint press, or socket and hammer, or a 2 jaw puller. Easiest method is to remove the boot of the ball joint, clean the off the grease, insert an impact socket on the stud, and pound it out with a sledgehammer, just be careful with the rotor dust shield as it can get in the way, haha. I have also removed it with a two-jaw puller but you'll need to use an impact and youll damage some of the threads on the puller if its a small one. I tried the ball joint press but I couldn't get the top cup to stay in place. To press the ball joint back in its easy using the ball joint press, you can borrow it from your nearby auto parts store. I also have some work to do on my TSX. My starter is failing, the rack and pinion feels worn out, and a few other things.
@@ChavezDIY if you do your rack and pinion plz make a video, your videos are clear and well made, thanks
Great video, I feel confident to take on this task, I always have my uncle do it for me I bring him the knuckle and he does everything, but I think it's time for me to do this
Thanks! It's good to challenge yourself to accomplish something you've never done before. Take your time with it. If you fail, get some help or try again.
Uncle Uncle Uncle, I love my uncle, he had done all my cars , he just moved back to Puerto Rico and now it's time for me to start doing my own things, he taught me a lot, but with this video, I'm more that positive I can do this job
Great video Miguel, very informative. I may try to attempt this myself. I have done the arms in the front and brakes so I know nothing is rusted. Just getting the courage to handle all this with that bearing tool is all I need.
Thanks for the feedback! That bearing press tool comes in handy and pays for itself over time. You want to take your time, don't rush, and be ready to take breaks as needed or even give yourself a second day if needed. The first time I did it, I was cautious and everything went well. When I recorded this video, I was overconfident and got distracted with the neighbor coming over to chat, and that's when I fucked up.
@@ChavezDIY my snap ring was very rusted. I'm in the process of doing this now. I'm currently soaking the bearing in PB blaster. It's rusted on good. I couldn't get the puller to budge
@@tonggi Oh man, I hate dealing with rust. PB Blaster is my preferred penetrating fluid. I've never had to use a torch to remove a bolt or nut but I keep it in mind as a last resort.
@@ChavezDIY I was able to get it off. Unfortunately I had to use a 3" saw then a hammer punch to vibrate it off. All bearings are off. New are one. Waiting for circlips at dealer tomorrow in the morning. Not bad at all with the tool. Just some elbow grease. This video definitely raised my confidence to tackle the job. So far this whole job including parts for front and rear bearings plus tools only cost me $160!
Man O man! Great job on this video. I haven't done it yet but after searching I feel sure I can. One of the, if not THE, best how 2 videos I have ever watched. Again, Great job.
You're welcome! I appreciate the feedback, it helps me to know if the videos I make are helpful to others. I had no intentions of making a video for the front wheel bearing change. But after I botched two installations, I had more confidence, haha. The opportunity was there to make a video so I went with it.
Thanks for the video! Appreciate a well thought out video where everything makes sense.
You're welcome! It's a tedious job. If you don't want to do all that work you can buy the whole steering knuckle with the bearing already pressed in. I have some info on that in the video description.
I love this video. From the way you lay it all out. Thank you so very much for this.
You're welcome! It's quite a daunting job for a DIYer. I made the video to help other ppl that want to take on this job.
You can put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours be fore installing , it will be a lot easier , thanks for your video , i like it.....
Thanks for the tip! I learned that after I did this job, haha. I also learned that I could have purchased the whole new steering knuckle with the bearing and wheel hub already pressed in, haha.
My TSX is at 175k miles. I feel as though Ill need to do this soon lol. Thanks for the videos!
There are some tests you can do to check your bearings but most work only when the bearings are very worn out. The main symptom I had was the humming noise or grumbling noise that's noticeable when coasting. It's similar to the wind noise you get when you tilt open your moon roof (with all Windows closed) and you're at 40+mph speeds. But you'll hear this sound when your windows and moon roof are closed. Means the bearing grease has dried and the bearings have more friction. You'll also waste more gas because the bearings provide resistance. It's not an emergency repair at that point but I like to keep my car well maintained.
Great video ! Super clear and easy to follow. Post more tax content !
Thank you for the feedback! I do have more TSX content planned, its just challenging to make videos with schools closed and my son is at home always wanting my attention, haha.
That was very well done. Thanks for putting it together.
Thanks for the feedback! It's a heck of a job, I tried to give as much helpful info as I could.
Great video,so informative 👍
Thank you for the feedback! =)
Great video! Very helpful
Glad it was helpful! I'm a DIYer not a mechanic so this video is going to help me next time I have to do that job, haha.
Great video. I'm in the process of doing this job. I have everything needed except the press kit. In the video you have the Powerbuilt kit but in the decription its Orion. Are they the same but with different names? Want to make the right purchase
Thanks! Unfortunately the Powerbuilt kit I used in the video is no longer available on Amazon. So I linked a similar product that has good reviews and a reasonable price.
Excellent presentation
Thank you! Cheers! =)
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome! Its not a easy job, but if you pace yourself and pay attention to the details, you can do it. It was a workout pressing in the bearing with my 1/2 inch drive ratchet, I think it would have been easier using a ratchet with a longer handle. I plan to upgrade to a ratchet with a longer handle.
Excellent job bro
Thank you so much 😀
No problem! Thank you! Your video definitely helped me out big time. 💯
Hey bro, any way to change the fronts studs without taking out the hubs and without having to grind? @9:12 looks like it can be done.
I don't have experience changing the wheel studs, I've never had to change one. From looking at the frame you mentioned at 9:12 you will still have to grind down the new stud to get it in.
@Miguel Chavez DIY Do you think I may also need to grind down a bit of the axle joint as well? Thanks. If you ever do change them, please let me or us know how. Stay safe bro.
@@vi_EviL_iv You should be able to do it by just grinding the new stud. Search for honda accord front wheel stud videos to see how other people did it.
@Miguel Chavez DIY Yeah I've done that. Some have grinned just under the bolt and the bolt itself. Hoping when I take a look at it while doing my rotors, it'll be just the bolt only. That or when ever I gotta do my bearing, I'll get it done then. Got some ARP in my stock.
In the same boat, did you ever find a way to do it without grinding down the studs?
Awesome video
Thanks! I wanted to provide as much information to help others do it on their own should they want to try it.
Miguel, thanks for the video. Can I press the wheel hub and bearing at the same time? The replacements I bought come all in one.
You're welcome! The front wheel bearings on the TSX come separate from the wheel hub. The rear wheel bearings come all in one as an assembly. I have not seen any front wheel bearings that already come with the bearing pressed onto the wheel hub. You can't press both into the steering knuckle at the same time for a couple of reasons. The front wheel bearing needs to be locked into place with the giant C-clip and you won't be able to insert the C-clip on the wheel hub after you press both the bearing and hub in at the same time. Another reason you can press both in together is because the wheel hub diameter is larger than the wheel bearing. When you press in the wheel bearing into the bore, you need to press it in by the bearing outer race and the wheel hub will be blocking your ability to press in the wheel bearing by the outer race...so you'll end up pushing out the inner race and you'll damage the bearing in the process.
Great video 👍. Where do you get that tool or what's the part number . Thank you.
Thanks! I bought the tool on Amazon. The exact same one I have is no longer available but I have a similar one listed in the video description. OrionMotorTech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Press amzn.to/2Wz0Nev
Very Noice ! But there's a wheel bearing protector that's supposed to go between the ring and the bearing itself, no? I ordered some on rockauto alongside my bearings and other parts
No, there isn't a wheel bearing protector. Rock Auto doesn't have a wheel bearing protector listed in the wheel bearing section for this car. If you see one, post a link so I can see what you're referring to.
@@ChavezDIY wheel seal, timken 710300 :) there two alternate oem numbers. I ordered two, if it doesn't fit well I'm screwed haha 6$ each
@@louisfredgagnon that part number is an axle seal. It goes on the transmission where the axle enters the transmission. You replace this part when the transmission fluid starts to leak out from the seal.
@@ChavezDIY but when I ordered my bearings, live, rockauto told me : why not replacing new wheel seals! I put them both in my card haha oops...
Yea I think I’ll have the shop do the front and I’ll do the back. Thanks again
Any time! Yeah, the front bearings are much more complicated to replace compared to the rear bearings. If you only have one car, that increases the pressure to do it right. I dread replacing the front wheel bearings, haha! I can do it, but I don't like to deal with all the issues that can pop up. To replace the lower ball joint, you also have to remove the whole steering knuckle the same way.
I know man, I sold my other car and been puttin a lot of money into my tsx so I’m tryna save some money and also learn how to work on my car
If I wanted to just replace the wheel hub for new studs, do I have to go through all these steps or is there a way to remove just the hub itself..? I cant find any video anywhere. And I dont want to do the ghetto way of cutting and chipping the studs to fit it in and out.
You don't have to replace the wheel hub if you need to just replace the wheel studs. Tire shops should be able to do this for you. To do it yourself you need to remove the wheel, then whack the stud in towards the car with a sledgehammer. The stud should pop out from the rear of the hub. A new stud will press in when you tighten your lug nuts or you can use some spacers and a lug nut to press in the new stud. One issue you may run into is finding a replacement stud that fits. Not all studs are the same size from the rear of the hub. I have two different brand hubs for my car but the wheel studs were not interchangable. I think ChrisFix has a video on replacing wheel studs.
@@ChavezDIY thanks for the response. The local tire shops are asking $200 above to replace just the studs... I have watched a few videos and they do indeed mention banging out the old studs but when inserting the new ones, they all say to file it down or cut the edge to make it go in. I wanted to find a way to just replace the whole thing rather than taking time to file each studs down. The rear hubs aren't as complicated as the front ones so I'm trying to find more info on to replace the front hubs without having to do much labor.
That's an excessive price, that's probably the cost of new hubs. Sound like an upsell. My friend had a tire shop accidentally break a stud and they fixed it without a problem. Filing it down will take forever. You're better off using an angle grinder or dremel tool with cut off wheel, which will cost you about $30 for either one. Alternately you can take the studs to a machine shop or exhaust shop and have them grind it down.
So I just recently got the wheel bearing changed and for some reason when I got it back the wheel where I replaced it was making a honking noise any ideas on why ?
I don't know. The best people to ask are the people that worked on the wheel to see if they know.
is it ok to just replace the hub if my barrings are fine
Not really because the bearing is pressed on the hub. When you remove the hub, the inner race of the bearing separates from the bearing and will be stuck onto the hub. Once the inner race of the bearing is separated from the rest of the bearing, you will not be able to press that inner race back onto the bearing without problems. The bearing won't function the same. You can try but I don't recommend it. If you are replacing the hub, might as well put on a new bearing. Its a challenging job. The way to avoid all this work is to buy the steering knuckle with hub and bearing already pressed in. Check the video description for more information.
If I just needed to replace the hub on this vehicle because my studs broke off, would I still need to change the bearing?
The wheel studs can be replaced by themselves without having to remove the hub. There are videos on TH-cam on how to do that. The studs are pressed in but can be hammered out individually and then press in a new stud. If you can't do it yourself, take it to a tire shop and ask how much they charge.
@@ChavezDIY It's not that simple. You can't do that on my tsx. I just realized you weren't working on the last get tsx. I have a 2012 tsx and the studs can't be hammered out. You have to take the hub off. I had the same issue on the rear but you can hammer those out. The front is completely different and a pain in my neck for something so simple. I just want to know if I take off the hub could I reinstall it onto the same bearing? My bearing is perfectly fine I don't need to replace those.
@@Yeyitocuerito1987 Yes, I have the first generation TSX. Why can you not do that on your second generation TSX? Are the studs welded in? I know the front hubs have a smaller gap to work with and some people have to trim the new stud to get it to fit. The answer to your question is no. You can't reuse the bearing once you separate the inner race from it.
Can I apply the same steps for a 2018 ilx?
Yes, I believe its going to be similar because the ILX also has a double wishbone suspension. The lower ball joint has a different design on the ILX but the principles are the same. You might want to find some ILX specific videos if you can. the ILX is a nice looking car =)
@@ChavezDIY I agree, it's a great car so far, a year in and no real complaints besides a non existent aftermarket(so far)
Magnet towards the car meaning Facing inside the car not outside correct sorry for dumb question
No worries. Yes, that's correct.
@@ChavezDIY thanks for fast reply I appreciate you
Great Video, no nonsense, easy to follow and great tips! Thank you 👍🏼. Subscribed
Thanks for the sub! I hate long intros that other youtubers use, haha. I figured I don't need a long intro if my purpose is to help others by providing information.
Can i just buy a whole knuckle assembly so I don’t have to do all these steps. Can i just swap out the whole knuckle for a new one
They do sell them already assembled, the steering knuckle with the bearing pressed in. Do you have a TSX or Accord? What year?
@@ChavezDIY hi miguel,
I have a 2006 acura tsx
@@jessess3958 1A Auto sells the complete kit for the Honda Accord, it should be the same part for your TSX because the TSX is based off the accord and is called the Accord in europe. Contact them and find out before you order. www.1aauto.com/2003-07-honda-accord-front-driver-side-suspension-knuckle-kit-with-steering-knuckle/i/1aaxx00271?f=1862532&y=2006&gclid=CjwKCAjw3K2XBhAzEiwAmmgrAsOiVhPnxYgYymWeebEdjozyYf0vehW4ne1-dqiO1stWg-1SENe2hBoC_k4QAvD_BwE
Is 450lbs impact torque wrench enough to work on this?
I'm not sure. The milwaukee impact that I have is rated at like 1,000 lbs. Be prepare to use a breaker bar and pipe extension for leverage if your impact wrench doesn't work for this.
what happen inner race you are cut out i did not see you replaced with new one?
The wheel bearing inner race is made of two halves, you can see them in the thumbnail of this video. When you separate the hub from the steering knuckle, one half of the old bearing inner race remains stuck on the hub. That is what I cut off from the wheel hub in order to reuse the wheel hub. The new wheel bearing already comes with the inner races.
Do you not need the piece you cut off of the hub?
No. The piece that I cut off from the hub is half of the inner race of the bearing. The inner race of the bearing is split into two parts. You can actually see the the two inner races in the thumbnail image for this video. When you remove the bearing from the hub, one half of the inner race stays on the hub and you'll have to remove it in order to press in a new bearing.
Why did you cut the wheel hub I didn’t get that part?
I didn't cut the wheel hub. The inner portion of the wheel bearing is known as the inner race and there are two halves to it. When you separate the wheel hub from the bearing/steering knuckle bore, one half of the inner race remains stuck on the wheel hub. You need to remove that inner race in order to reuse the wheel hub. But if you are using brand new wheel hubs, then you don't need to remove the inner race. So what I cut was the half of the inner race that was stuck on the wheel hub.
My lower ball joint separated from the knuckle assembly while I was driving
That sucks! I feel bad when I see cars on the road that a have a separated ball joint. How old was the ball joint? Are you going to repair it yourself?
@@ChavezDIY yea i I ordered the knuckle with the ball joint nd a new wheel bearing
What if I have no bearing press?
Go to your local auto parts store and borrow it from them. Auto zone, pep boys, O Reilly and others have a tool loan program. It's free to borrow but they'll charge your card and then return your money when you return the tool. That's how they ensure that people bring back the tool.
Very good
Thank you! =)
I'm worried that my Bauer 1/2 impact might not have the power
Fully charge your tool and if it doesn't work you gotta have a backup plan like using a breaker bar with a pipe if needed.
Thanks you
No problem! =)
What mods have you done to the tsx? I installed thr plm header (crappy fitment & leaky slipjoints) I had an exhaust shop weld the slip joints for me, then had the test pipe portion cut and welded to a 3" flex pipe to a 3" thunderbolt high flow catalytic converter with welded o2 bung for the secondary o2 sensor, then a 3" vibrant 18" resonator to a 3" vibrant ultra quiet resonator, 3" exhaust piping to a 3" vibrant high power flat black stealth muffler. Check it out, its on my channel.
That's a lot of exhaust mods you have done to the TSX. How did the PLM headers hold up after you got the slip joints welded? Mods I have done include: short ram intake, Throttle Body bypass mod, thermal gasket for TB and intake manifold, ingalls engine torque damper, Unorthodox Racing pulleys, DC sports exhaust headers, test pipe in place of catalytic converter, H&R front and rear sway bar upgrades, Eibach lowering springs with Koni adjustable shocks, camber adjustment ball joints in front, camber adjustment arms for rear, Motegi lighter wheels, 225 45 17 summer tires, and the Hondata Reflash.
So far so good, its been about a month or two and no leaks so far.
I don't think you'll get a leak from where its welded. Look out for cracks in other places that can develop over time. I went back to the stock headers because I got tired of dealing with issues with the aftermarket headers. The stock headers are sturdy and have a bracket that bolts to the back of the engine to hold it firm. In addition, the flex pipe is there to account for any flexibility. None of the aftermarket headers I have seen incorporate the bracket that holds the exhaust manifold to the back of the engine, thus there is more movement and less stability of the aftermarket headers overall.
How long was it before you developed leaks?
@@k24in31 about 6 months to a year the flex pipe was the first to break. I got it replaced like three times.
Thank you!,
You're welcome! =)
This seem like a big job, you think it will cost alot of money for a mancanic to do it.
Im looking at acura tsx the owners says
front bearing replacement and keyless FOB replacement
I don't know what a mechanic charges for the job. It is not an easy job. You will have to call shops near you and get estimates.
@@ChavezDIY Thank you Miguel.
well done
Thank you! It's a heck of a job, I hate doing it, haha!
To remove the wheel race just heat it up and keep turning it and it falls off so easily.
I'll have to try that method next time. I saw EricTheCarGuy mount the hub on a tool where you can spin it, he torched the race and it eventually fell off.
Jealous of how easily that speed sensor came out
Haha. Do you live in an area with heavy rust? Using PB blaster is as bad as it gets for me. I haven't had to use the torch method. My mother in law had some seized rotors and I had to use the bolt, nut and washer method to press them off, but that's not common.
unplug the sensor from the engine bay and remove the entire sensor and wire with the knuckle. Let it soak in some PB blaster then lightly tap it out with a small punch.
Great got to the last part and pushed the hub to far and pushed the bearing put the back FUCK MY LIFE
Fakkk! it happens! It's happened to me too. You can still try to put it back together but it won't work the same, might have some rubbing inside and won't be smooth as new. When I messed up my bearing I had to run to AutoZone to get a new bearing, it hurt my wallet and my ego, haha. That's when I decided to make this video to help other people out.
@@ChavezDIY had to do this again I did right the last time but I has to do it again and now my alignment is off I did it right before I'm so confused
@@CaptainRexCT-7567 Why do you have to do it over again? Your alignment can be thrown off any time you have to disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
It you still have this car keep it bc they are type r k24 dtune from the factory Honda dirty little secret and they are going up in value and soon to be classic cars bc the k24 they have
Yes, I still have the car. I'm broke and I have no money to upgrade to another car so I'm keeping it for now.
You trippin bro
Sometimes 🤣
I'll never own another Acura, this bearing thing is stupid.
It's not easy but you can also take it to a machine shop and have them press in the new bearing.
i don’t have the tools to do this 🫠
Either buy the tools or just buy the knuckle and bearing already assembled. In the video description I mention a website that sells the knuckle with the bearing already pressed in. Check it out. You can also search Google for other auto parts sites that may sell everything already assembled.