It's weird how once you start watching someones videos, it really don't matter what they are doing, or working on, ya just watch it, lol, great tips you're giving there, Pretty soon you won't even need to direct John to focus on this or that, just have patience Dad, (he is from that "special" generation ya know)😉👌, lol, just kidding John, you're a bright kid its obvious,😋🤞, great video guys👍, and thanks for sharing.
Happy new year to you guys. Hope Jess and baby are still doing well. I always look forward to your videos. John may decide to be a camera man instead of a mechanic!
What prevents input shaft from upward movement, i have a lot of axial play after assembly, does just the weight of the pulley keep it engaged in the ring gear?
If you were to do a lot of these you might want to weld up some kind of a jig to hold the casing make your life a little easier heck even something made out of wood, that'd be a good project for your son
The problem is you can never fix it right only as best you can. These love to break off the case bolts. Fixing it right means threw drilling and replacing with 1/4 20 bolt and nylock nut. Then comes the discontinued seals on the brake shaft and the input shaft. Cost parts wise is sub $20 make it $30 to cover brake pads that are always toast by this point. Even I take 2 hours to do the full job. But compared to a MST206 in surplus sales still goes for $250+. Conclusion it would have to be a customer I like.
True I normally leave that out of videos as an option cause the casting on these is not pure. Have seen several pics posted where cases failed from a basic propane torch. On a higher end MST I would risk it if needed.
if you put a longer input shaft. you can run 2 outside bearings and not depend on that little bearing and case to keep from snapping. then you can run super heavy spring on clutch and not ruin input bearing . without the extra bearing your just playing games .
If you don't install a new rubber seal on the top of that shaft, you can't expect the new upper bearing to last very long, the dirt/water will drastically shorten it's life, mowers are good at making dust/dirt fly. The part number you show on the video is for a bronze bearing for the internal gear shafts, not the rubber seal. The seal is no longer available, but it can be had from one of the largest bearing manufacturers in the world - SKF Don't forget to grease up the new bearings. It's real easy to 'make' a bearing puller with a long bolt, the right sized socket or spacer, a few washers and a nut. You really going to clean up that rusty disintegrating washer instead of just replacing it?
It's weird how once you start watching someones videos, it really don't matter what they are doing, or working on, ya just watch it, lol, great tips you're giving there, Pretty soon you won't even need to direct John to focus on this or that, just have patience Dad, (he is from that "special" generation ya know)😉👌, lol, just kidding John, you're a bright kid its obvious,😋🤞, great video guys👍, and thanks for sharing.
Iv got those same snap ring pliers. Kind of expensive, but man they are the best! Definitely worth the money
Totally agree!
I'll watch just about whatever ya put-out, but a update video on John's Monte-Carlo SS would be greatly appreciated.😉👍
Awesome video Happy New Year
Happy new year to you guys. Hope Jess and baby are still doing well. I always look forward to your videos. John may decide to be a camera man instead of a mechanic!
My OCD is kicking my butt when I see you putting stuff together without cleaning it
Thanks you for the info and I'm going to try tear one down I'm trying to do it thank you for the video
Have you ever tried washing out the old bearings greasing them and putting them back together
Hi. Much appreciated if you can tell the details of that bearings Thank you
You can place a washer between the socket and bearing before you tap it in. Helps get it to flush. Go Duromax!
What prevents input shaft from upward movement, i have a lot of axial play after assembly, does just the weight of the pulley keep it engaged in the ring gear?
very informative. good job brother 👍
If you were to do a lot of these you might want to weld up some kind of a jig to hold the casing make your life a little easier heck even something made out of wood, that'd be a good project for your son
Agreed I would build it based on the murray type to be sure the shifter linkage fits.
How much would a person have to charge to profit from a repair like this when you figure in your time and the cost of the parts?
The problem is you can never fix it right only as best you can. These love to break off the case bolts. Fixing it right means threw drilling and replacing with 1/4 20 bolt and nylock nut. Then comes the discontinued seals on the brake shaft and the input shaft. Cost parts wise is sub $20 make it $30 to cover brake pads that are always toast by this point. Even I take 2 hours to do the full job. But compared to a MST206 in surplus sales still goes for $250+. Conclusion it would have to be a customer I like.
it helps to heat the aluminum before trying to knock out the bearings.... Old guy tip
True I normally leave that out of videos as an option cause the casting on these is not pure. Have seen several pics posted where cases failed from a basic propane torch. On a higher end MST I would risk it if needed.
John, please ask your folks' permission to become the new Sec. Of State for Maine -- An adult is desperately needed in that position !
if you put a longer input shaft. you can run 2 outside bearings and not depend on that little bearing and case to keep from snapping. then you can run super heavy spring on clutch and not ruin input bearing . without the extra bearing your just playing games .
Im first. I think ❤
Nope
If you don't install a new rubber seal on the top of that shaft, you can't expect the new upper bearing to last very long, the dirt/water will drastically shorten it's life, mowers are good at making dust/dirt fly. The part number you show on the video is for a bronze bearing for the internal gear shafts, not the rubber seal. The seal is no longer available, but it can be had from one of the largest bearing manufacturers in the world - SKF
Don't forget to grease up the new bearings.
It's real easy to 'make' a bearing puller with a long bolt, the right sized socket or spacer, a few washers and a nut.
You really going to clean up that rusty disintegrating washer instead of just replacing it?
Hello Were you able to get the seal through SKF and if so what’s the part number
Thank you