In John's defense; A plastic con rod makes about as much sense as a plastic thermostat housing or plastic radiator connector and that is prolific these days.
In the kids defence. GROWN ASS EDUCATED MEN decide to put plastic parts in HOT areas of engines and some even dare to put rubber timing belts that are in constant contact with OIL.
@vihreelinja4743 and it works.... plastic end tanks and housings easily last as long as metal ones. If you don't see the difference, then you are just plain stupid. There's no getting around that.
I paused re-watching the video at 8:11 and was literally JUST thinking that this engine's design looks almost perfect for a slab of polycarbonate for a side cover ! As it's the output side the view wouldn't be obscured by anything either.
My take, rod broke on the power stroke. Timing was just right, and crank hit the piston skirt and the rod journal hit the wrist pin bearing, and that contact gave it enough force to push it back up that little bit.
I’ve seen plastic overmoulded cams in a lawnmower engine before! Made of nylon. If you’re going to try that again, use at least PETG (nylon can be hard to print, I haven’t tried it yet) but print it SOLID (in Prusaslicer just select 100% infill). Parts like that are pretty good, I’ve printed bearing blocks for my gym which withstand a lot of abuse! Delete any recesses you don’t need for clearance. The problem you’ll run into eventually is when it gets hot and melty…
I'm thinking it must have fired once, instantly shattering the conrod. The piston carried on right down the bore, and got stopped by the conrod journal of the crank, knocking that part of the piston skirt off as it hit.
Nah, the rod shattered on the downstroke and the piston went lower than usual, hitting the crankshaft. Explains the broken skirt AND the piston bearing flat spot.
Lol. I'm somewhere along the way machining building a Gxv340 for Methanol / Nitro. And coincidentally just got my fat lil slab of Ti that is just big enough for a rod if i dont mess up. (I shouldnt) But I used to be able to cobble material at scrap steel price from my company. So now paying full for Ti was heart stopping! Chromoly and Alu is sooo much more affordable...And easy to find new cutoffs / drops at scrapyards. Sadly you never find exotics there. But I do find nice new cutoff labeled billet aluminum and steel / tool steel. So thats a bit of advice for you. The yard I go too makees me have and wear a vest and hardhat. And I MUST walk up to the magnet crane and tell him im foraging. He also usually knows where the choice bits and everything is located. Never go near a steel pile taller then yourself. oneday youll be on it and it will collapse and kill you. Never climb the piles, stay away from them. and ask the crane for help.
FAFO is the basis of all knowledge. How else are we to know 'fire hot' as a youngin. Keep supporting his curiosity so he won't be another dumb adult. That smile while being lectured is the sign of great parenting.
Plastic pressing a flat spot in a metal bearing cage befor it explodes is crazy. That was a realy interesting video. Iam hyped for the aluminum version
Lost PLA casting using something higher grade aluminum maybe? Like rims or whatever found? Gets me wondering if can get cut with thin sheets and layered as another way ghetto?
I had the thin sheet idea as a hood teenager in the 90s to make a reciprocating jet engine because I was broke in the hood. Thanks for this comment. Maybe I can do it now cus @redneckcomputergeek reply to you seems to be the info I couldn't get back then. Off to build a cnc cus I'm still too broke to buy one, but I ain't gotta follow nobody else's rules.
@@redneckcomputergeek Yeah, seems trying to more simply do, can also ghetto angle grinder the sheets pattern and then weld around the perimeter once all sheets are stacked and clamped or bolted together and then drill out to be more precise?
@@SlinkyD Check out my reply. Probably can use like an angle grinder and cut out the rough shape, maybe use a hack saw or file to get the pattern more what you want before and or after welding around the perimeter and maybe inside the holes for the wrist pin and crank. Then drill out more precise the rest? Trying to think how to most simply with minimal tools. I actually want to do a lost PLA casting of the crank cases for the opposed twin Briggs vertical shaft so to make a conversion to horizontal shaft since the verticals are or at least were more plentiful. Shake The Future youtube channel has been demonstrate using a microwave to cast, so thats a plan once I get back in the shop, post shop refurb repairs.
i think the needle bearing jammed or became misaligned causing it to jam and the torque of the crank rotating caused the end cap to fail which caused the rest of the rod to be ripped to pieces, that's just a hypothesis
Plastic exploding in an engine. Huh. Almost like the chinesium plastic parts they put into cars nowadays. Funny that. All kidding aside, it does make a good demonstration of why plastic parts in engines are a bad idea.
My educated guess: When the engine fired, it broke the plastic rod, with the piston still traveling downwards from momentum and cylinder pressures, as the crank came around and wacked the wristpin, shattering the rest of the remaining plastic rod on potentially both the crank and wristpin, and the crank ultimately hitting the bearing on the wristpin. As the piston was too far down the bore, the crank weights hit the poston skirt or bits of connecting rod wedged between the piston skirt and scank
hard to tell if it failed at the wrist pin end or the rod cap bolt ends. just some observations as i've been looking into something similar (hint composite). 1: use a nut on the other end instead of cutting threads. 2: it doesn't appear you are space constrained too much around the rod cap bolts, could add more material (wider?) 3: possibly add modifiers in splicer to add more material around bolts. 4. probably dont need roller bearing for the wrist pin, but should add more material
At certain points the rod pushes sideways as it pushes the piston up. That sideways force may been when it snapped in the center. Thats my guess anyway.
Whatever knocked the piece of piston skirt off the piston damaged the wrist pin bearing, that's my guess. John reminds me of myself 45 years ago, he thought the whole thing was hilarious too!
I think the connecting rod gave out then hit the piston thank you for the video and if we don't see you again till Christmas Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years
could use fiber reinforced filament along with plastic welding some 0.5mm stainless mesh wire between each print lair. so an electromagnetic heat coil would be needed to melt the screen onto the plastic... with a input in the printer to move the nozzle far off to the side so their is space to quickly melt a rectangular sheet of wire onto it. excessively ridged plastic testing... continued concept.
my theory is once it went into the power stroke the assembly went downward but instead of going up the forces forced it down and pushed the plastic rod through the crankshaft and the piston forced down farther and caused the piston to hit the counterweights on the crank and snapped the skirt on the piston. i would assume that the crank also put that divot in the pin bearing, or the skirt moved inwards and hit that bearing. thats just my theory on what happened here
To be fair, this could work with a bit more R&D, but without an industrial material, having a fully 3D printed rod will be living on borrowed time after heatsoak (minutes rather than first pull). Now casting a harder material from a 3D printed mold with hand-laid CF reinforcement... 😉
I'm willing to bet that the crank did that to the bearing and probably explains what broke the piston as well. I wonder how long a connecting rod made from jb weld would last
Building positive memories of time with his farther that will last your boy his lifetime......... Cost? One piston. Seems like a pretty solid deal to me. 😏
100 walls, 100% infill. maximize outside diameter at both ends of rod. Don't put a lightening recess in the side. All features should have big fillets to avoid stress risers. Why anybody prints mechanical objects less than 100% infill can't be determined. Another idea to make the small end stronger is use a slightly smaller pin, bush the piston to the smaller pin. This would be to increase the cross section at the small end. Toss the bearings and just run the plastic as bearings. This increases your cross section. Many engines (bigger ones) run a piston pin pressed into the rod small end. Buy a ream same size as pin and you'll end up with a slight press fit after reaming. PLA softens in petroleum products. ABS will take shock loads better and higher temps. Maximize all cross sections so the rod is as bulky as possible. You need twice the volume of plastic as you have in aluminum at the very least. O yea, for fun, I'd actually consider SOLID TPU here with the rod about 3mm shorter as a crazy test after the solid beefy rod actually works. You could do a killer series challenging others to send you their rod designs for testing. Monetize your channel. Oh yea, again, swear off hollow mechanical parts. They suck. Fun video and test.
How to actually make it run: print the connecting rod in pa6cf or ppa-cf, anneal it and make it a little thicker (I reccomend using bambulab or poly maker filament)
The piston came down after the explosion like normal but the con rod didnt hold a bit so the piston came all the way dowand hit crank hard thats why bearing is flat. I think the skirt broke when you spun it over with piston down like that
Here’s my theory: When the hard pull happened, the compression of the cylinder closed the clearance between the rod and the bottom of the piston head. So that crunched the top of the rod and the two separated. Then on the second pull, the now crunched rod, came back up, hit the skirt of the piston, breaking the chunk, and obliterating the rest of the rod. And that’s how you flattened and broke the needle bearing. 😢
It can be a good idea to make a model engine from 3D printed parts. To show how a engine works but that is the only thing that is a good idea with 3D printed plastic parts. There will be no compression so it will not hurt any of the plastic parts.
I really haven't realized that with the power stroke, the rod broke, the piston went all the way down, and kaboom. edit: (The cranckshaft kissed the bottom of the piston, along with the bearing
Idk. I thought it would have lasted at least until operating temperature. I got a bunch of things I printed, that probably shouldn’t be made from plastic. 😂 lot of em work surprisingly well. In both y’all defense, I’d have tried it. I would try again- something, more durable than pla perhaps? 🤷♂️
Im pretty sure you broke the piston skirt. after it fired it pushed the piston all the way down broke plastic con rod. But then you yanked on it real good. Crank hit piston
Back streets back ... Alright 😂😂❤.... I didn't know BSB built motors... Hopefully he can keep rod timing NSYNC after 98° temperature hopefully doesn't make it go ByeByeBye 😂😂❤
ditch the drill go straight for a half inch impact... i have a chinese $60 amazon impact thats 20v and it takes lugs off trucks. but fun idea for the 3d printed rod. ive seen it done a few times and its always funny
it cracked all white when it was pressed and the explosion that had to happen to get the engine running was so powerful that it cracked and the piston tongue collided with the crankshaft and so it all fell apart very quickly.
100% infill, 6 walls with alternate extra wall...I bet that'd last at least until half throttle or first heat soak. Do those settings with PEEK and I'd be willing to wager it would last a fair bit longer than you'd think. I mean....they make production "racing" rods out of carbon fiber reinforced PEEK...granted they're not printed...but the material should be close enough for surprising results.
Yeah, sure man that's going to last like.. 2 weeks, maybe even less especially with the heat the engine produces.. any plastic compound and constant heat is going to degrade said plastic very fast, unless the resin used to print is certified to take the temperatures. Good dad though, mom will likely never need to go to a car shop again once he's been through his training!
Hey gentlemen nice try that's pretty cool but she's at spark plug fires and not piston goes down that connecting rods shot you know you're not even going to have one good compression stroke before that connecting rod snaps
It ignited. Shot the piston down destroying the con rod and then hit the lobes of the crank and that broke the skirt and made a flat spot on the bearing.
Youll never get it to work with that rod design because its designed for strength in cast metal. Youre going to need to completely redesign the rod and 100% infill then anneal it to make it solid. OR youll have to figure out some kind of deisgn so it doesnt shear itself to pieces. Polycarbonate or cf nylon or asa might get you 45 seconds of runtime before the shaft deforms n itll probably blow the piston into the back of the crank n be a big oily molten mess...... Kinda sounds like i should try this with a weedwhacker just cause itd be funny
Piston kissed the crank. That would be the only way I see that bearing cracking like that. Explosion. Did that and pushed the piston down. Poor 3D printed rod had no chance.
The working theory at this point is that the only flat spot to hit is the bolts in the rod. We think the top and piston slammed down into the head of the rod bolt.
Question: why would you “prototype” a aluminum rod. “Go power sports” already sells all this and that for mod upgrades. Just wasting time.!! Now this 3d rod is a neat experiment so that’s cool!! Obviously will fail but still cool
My prediction is 10 seconds before catastrophic failure. Edit: Well darn.... On a side note, your kid completely losing it is spreading that laughter too.
Do you have the STL? I want to try this for myself but mabye with PETG
I have added the onshape link to the description. PETG shrinks a ton in most cases so the bore sizes might need to be edited to try it.
In John's defense; A plastic con rod makes about as much sense as a plastic thermostat housing or plastic radiator connector and that is prolific these days.
In the kids defence. GROWN ASS EDUCATED MEN decide to put plastic parts in HOT areas of engines and some even dare to put rubber timing belts that are in constant contact with OIL.
@vihreelinja4743 and it works.... plastic end tanks and housings easily last as long as metal ones. If you don't see the difference, then you are just plain stupid. There's no getting around that.
The strenght of the plastics used on the radiators are 900x stronger
@gabrielvieira6529 but super brittle after 3 to 5 years.
@@jondahl9826 I have an over 20 year old VW with still some original plastic parts...
Now you have to do it again, but this time using an acrylic side cover and slow motion camera so we can see the carnage..lol.
I paused re-watching the video at 8:11 and was literally JUST thinking that this engine's design looks almost perfect for a slab of polycarbonate for a side cover ! As it's the output side the view wouldn't be obscured by anything either.
My take, rod broke on the power stroke. Timing was just right, and crank hit the piston skirt and the rod journal hit the wrist pin bearing, and that contact gave it enough force to push it back up that little bit.
"With 5 hours of fiddling around, and problems, it lasted 1 pull"........ You just gave briggs and stratton the greatest ideas.
I’ve seen plastic overmoulded cams in a lawnmower engine before! Made of nylon.
If you’re going to try that again, use at least PETG (nylon can be hard to print, I haven’t tried it yet) but print it SOLID (in Prusaslicer just select 100% infill). Parts like that are pretty good, I’ve printed bearing blocks for my gym which withstand a lot of abuse! Delete any recesses you don’t need for clearance. The problem you’ll run into eventually is when it gets hot and melty…
Do not print it with 100% infill, you want as many perimeters as possible
My guess on the dent in the rod bearing is it hit one of your rod bolts other on one of the flats of the bolt or directly on the head
I'm thinking it must have fired once, instantly shattering the conrod. The piston carried on right down the bore, and got stopped by the conrod journal of the crank, knocking that part of the piston skirt off as it hit.
Nah, the rod shattered on the downstroke and the piston went lower than usual, hitting the crankshaft. Explains the broken skirt AND the piston bearing flat spot.
Lol. I'm somewhere along the way machining building a Gxv340 for Methanol / Nitro. And coincidentally just got my fat lil slab of Ti that is just big enough for a rod if i dont mess up. (I shouldnt)
But I used to be able to cobble material at scrap steel price from my company. So now paying full for Ti was heart stopping! Chromoly and Alu is sooo much more affordable...And easy to find new cutoffs / drops at scrapyards. Sadly you never find exotics there. But I do find nice new cutoff labeled billet aluminum and steel / tool steel. So thats a bit of advice for you.
The yard I go too makees me have and wear a vest and hardhat. And I MUST walk up to the magnet crane and tell him im foraging. He also usually knows where the choice bits and everything is located. Never go near a steel pile taller then yourself. oneday youll be on it and it will collapse and kill you. Never climb the piles, stay away from them. and ask the crane for help.
FAFO is the basis of all knowledge. How else are we to know 'fire hot' as a youngin. Keep supporting his curiosity so he won't be another dumb adult. That smile while being lectured is the sign of great parenting.
The first spark, detonation the rod detonated and blew the piston all the way down and hit the crank and broke the flange.
Plastic pressing a flat spot in a metal bearing cage befor it explodes is crazy. That was a realy interesting video. Iam hyped for the aluminum version
yeah, those needle bearings need to be interference fit inside a metal hole to take the load, it wont work in plastic.
Lost PLA casting using something higher grade aluminum maybe? Like rims or whatever found? Gets me wondering if can get cut with thin sheets and layered as another way ghetto?
I was talking the idea out with a machines. He said cad design it with a blade cut out spacing then bolt it together and machine the end out in a jig.
I had the thin sheet idea as a hood teenager in the 90s to make a reciprocating jet engine because I was broke in the hood. Thanks for this comment. Maybe I can do it now cus @redneckcomputergeek reply to you seems to be the info I couldn't get back then.
Off to build a cnc cus I'm still too broke to buy one, but I ain't gotta follow nobody else's rules.
@@redneckcomputergeek Yeah, seems trying to more simply do, can also ghetto angle grinder the sheets pattern and then weld around the perimeter once all sheets are stacked and clamped or bolted together and then drill out to be more precise?
@@SlinkyD Check out my reply. Probably can use like an angle grinder and cut out the rough shape, maybe use a hack saw or file to get the pattern more what you want before and or after welding around the perimeter and maybe inside the holes for the wrist pin and crank. Then drill out more precise the rest? Trying to think how to most simply with minimal tools. I actually want to do a lost PLA casting of the crank cases for the opposed twin Briggs vertical shaft so to make a conversion to horizontal shaft since the verticals are or at least were more plentiful. Shake The Future youtube channel has been demonstrate using a microwave to cast, so thats a plan once I get back in the shop, post shop refurb repairs.
LOL! This was great! You never know unless you try!
i think the needle bearing jammed or became misaligned causing it to jam and the torque of the crank rotating caused the end cap to fail which caused the rest of the rod to be ripped to pieces, that's just a hypothesis
Rod shattered and the piston hit the crank
Plastic exploding in an engine. Huh. Almost like the chinesium plastic parts they put into cars nowadays. Funny that. All kidding aside, it does make a good demonstration of why plastic parts in engines are a bad idea.
I was hooked and interested to see what would happen that was great 😊
That gives a whole meaning to (ONE HITTER QUITER ) LMFAO
My educated guess: When the engine fired, it broke the plastic rod, with the piston still traveling downwards from momentum and cylinder pressures, as the crank came around and wacked the wristpin, shattering the rest of the remaining plastic rod on potentially both the crank and wristpin, and the crank ultimately hitting the bearing on the wristpin. As the piston was too far down the bore, the crank weights hit the poston skirt or bits of connecting rod wedged between the piston skirt and scank
hard to tell if it failed at the wrist pin end or the rod cap bolt ends. just some observations as i've been looking into something similar (hint composite).
1: use a nut on the other end instead of cutting threads.
2: it doesn't appear you are space constrained too much around the rod cap bolts, could add more material (wider?)
3: possibly add modifiers in splicer to add more material around bolts.
4. probably dont need roller bearing for the wrist pin, but should add more material
Your crank is now nicked, that is what hit the bearing.
In other news, you got ignition, blew the piston straight through the connecting rod.
At certain points the rod pushes sideways as it pushes the piston up. That sideways force may been when it snapped in the center.
Thats my guess anyway.
That SeeSii impact should have 2 loosening modes. There is a normal mode that lets it spin as long as you are pulling the trigger.
Whatever knocked the piece of piston skirt off the piston damaged the wrist pin bearing, that's my guess. John reminds me of myself 45 years ago, he thought the whole thing was hilarious too!
I think the connecting rod gave out then hit the piston thank you for the video and if we don't see you again till Christmas Merry Christmas and a Happy New Years
Your rod hit the cam!!!!!!!! Geez crist boys an brains should be the name😊😊
could use fiber reinforced filament along with plastic welding some 0.5mm stainless mesh wire between each print lair. so an electromagnetic heat coil would be needed to melt the screen onto the plastic... with a input in the printer to move the nozzle far off to the side so their is space to quickly melt a rectangular sheet of wire onto it. excessively ridged plastic testing... continued concept.
my theory is once it went into the power stroke the assembly went downward but instead of going up the forces forced it down and pushed the plastic rod through the crankshaft and the piston forced down farther and caused the piston to hit the counterweights on the crank and snapped the skirt on the piston. i would assume that the crank also put that divot in the pin bearing, or the skirt moved inwards and hit that bearing. thats just my theory on what happened here
Do you think the crank smacked the bearing and the piston skirt?
This is the craziest thing I've seen ya do... I love it... might try Carbon fiber
To be fair, this could work with a bit more R&D, but without an industrial material, having a fully 3D printed rod will be living on borrowed time after heatsoak (minutes rather than first pull). Now casting a harder material from a 3D printed mold with hand-laid CF reinforcement... 😉
I'm willing to bet that the crank did that to the bearing and probably explains what broke the piston as well. I wonder how long a connecting rod made from jb weld would last
Never tried plastic connecting rod I have filed the rod caps to help with knocking it lasted a few days on a mini bike
You and your kid seem hella happy I just subbed I am gettn a 3 d printer hopefully have some future tips
Mine has a plastic camshaft from factory, has been run hard and hasn't failed yet
Building positive memories of time with his farther that will last your boy his lifetime......... Cost? One piston. Seems like a pretty solid deal to me. 😏
I saw the Ghost engine at Harbor Freight has a Mod Kit for it for $199 and was actually in stock at the store I went to this weekend.
The spark kicked the piston down smacking against the counterweight which broke the piston and hit the barring making that flat spot and ripping it.
100 walls, 100% infill. maximize outside diameter at both ends of rod. Don't put a lightening recess in the side. All features should have big fillets to avoid stress risers. Why anybody prints mechanical objects less than 100% infill can't be determined. Another idea to make the small end stronger is use a slightly smaller pin, bush the piston to the smaller pin. This would be to increase the cross section at the small end. Toss the bearings and just run the plastic as bearings. This increases your cross section. Many engines (bigger ones) run a piston pin pressed into the rod small end. Buy a ream same size as pin and you'll end up with a slight press fit after reaming. PLA softens in petroleum products. ABS will take shock loads better and higher temps. Maximize all cross sections so the rod is as bulky as possible. You need twice the volume of plastic as you have in aluminum at the very least. O yea, for fun, I'd actually consider SOLID TPU here with the rod about 3mm shorter as a crazy test after the solid beefy rod actually works. You could do a killer series challenging others to send you their rod designs for testing. Monetize your channel. Oh yea, again, swear off hollow mechanical parts. They suck. Fun video and test.
How to actually make it run: print the connecting rod in pa6cf or ppa-cf, anneal it and make it a little thicker (I reccomend using bambulab or poly maker filament)
The piston came down after the explosion like normal but the con rod didnt hold a bit so the piston came all the way dowand hit crank hard thats why bearing is flat. I think the skirt broke when you spun it over with piston down like that
Why did you not use 100 percent infill on the connecting rod? And can you try better plastic? Resin based maybe?
How about a 3D printed cam? You could try various profiles easily. Might have to be careful with spring pressure to avoid wear.
Might be a good idea to try carbonfiber filaments
Here’s my theory:
When the hard pull happened, the compression of the cylinder closed the clearance between the rod and the bottom of the piston head. So that crunched the top of the rod and the two separated. Then on the second pull, the now crunched rod, came back up, hit the skirt of the piston, breaking the chunk, and obliterating the rest of the rod. And that’s how you flattened and broke the needle bearing. 😢
I say try it again in petg and maybe beef up the ends a bit more... And make it the shorter length that you mentioned for lower compression ratio
I would try printing it solid with PCTG, I bet it would hold up for a few cycles.
It can be a good idea to make a model engine from 3D printed parts. To show how a engine works but that is the only thing that is a good idea with 3D printed plastic parts. There will be no compression so it will not hurt any of the plastic parts.
Ahhhh , the ol' "Chicken or the egg" enigma......
Maybe I missed it in the video, but did you not print that with 100% infill?
keep up the great work guys!
I really haven't realized that with the power stroke, the rod broke, the piston went all the way down, and kaboom. edit: (The cranckshaft kissed the bottom of the piston, along with the bearing
When your dad makes an entire video just to cut your ass 😂
Peek plastic mixed with some fine carbon fiber strands could work actually as conrod...
Idk. I thought it would have lasted at least until operating temperature.
I got a bunch of things I printed, that probably shouldn’t be made from plastic. 😂 lot of em work surprisingly well.
In both y’all defense, I’d have tried it.
I would try again- something, more durable than pla perhaps? 🤷♂️
You should print in 100% infill. I make compressed air engines with
also, if you were to attempt this again, you should retard timing somewhat
The small end broke first , then came back up and smacked the roller pin bearing and flattened it.
Do you have needle bearings on each end
They supposedly make carbon composite con rods
Im pretty sure you broke the piston skirt. after it fired it pushed the piston all the way down broke plastic con rod. But then you yanked on it real good. Crank hit piston
Back streets back ... Alright 😂😂❤.... I didn't know BSB built motors... Hopefully he can keep rod timing NSYNC after 98° temperature hopefully doesn't make it go ByeByeBye 😂😂❤
ditch the drill go straight for a half inch impact... i have a chinese $60 amazon impact thats 20v and it takes lugs off trucks. but fun idea for the 3d printed rod. ive seen it done a few times and its always funny
it cracked all white when it was pressed and the explosion that had to happen to get the engine running was so powerful that it cracked and the piston tongue collided with the crankshaft and so it all fell apart very quickly.
100% infill, 6 walls with alternate extra wall...I bet that'd last at least until half throttle or first heat soak. Do those settings with PEEK and I'd be willing to wager it would last a fair bit longer than you'd think. I mean....they make production "racing" rods out of carbon fiber reinforced PEEK...granted they're not printed...but the material should be close enough for surprising results.
Yeah, sure man that's going to last like.. 2 weeks, maybe even less especially with the heat the engine produces.. any plastic compound and constant heat is going to degrade said plastic very fast, unless the resin used to print is certified to take the temperatures. Good dad though, mom will likely never need to go to a car shop again once he's been through his training!
Hey gentlemen nice try that's pretty cool but she's at spark plug fires and not piston goes down that connecting rods shot you know you're not even going to have one good compression stroke before that connecting rod snaps
Maybe 3d print it so you can thread a 3/8 or some other allthread into the rod lengthwise
It ignited. Shot the piston down destroying the con rod and then hit the lobes of the crank and that broke the skirt and made a flat spot on the bearing.
Well. That certainly "excalated" quickly.
Youll never get it to work with that rod design because its designed for strength in cast metal. Youre going to need to completely redesign the rod and 100% infill then anneal it to make it solid. OR youll have to figure out some kind of deisgn so it doesnt shear itself to pieces. Polycarbonate or cf nylon or asa might get you 45 seconds of runtime before the shaft deforms n itll probably blow the piston into the back of the crank n be a big oily molten mess...... Kinda sounds like i should try this with a weedwhacker just cause itd be funny
That's because of the crankshaft. Your piston tongue also got a knock on the shirt
End cap side to side, main rod up and down... maybe try ASA, Nylon, or carbon fiber
Its pretty expensive but peek or pei would be nice to test.
How about a 3D printed block instead?
Try then sheet metal and layer a rod and weld it together
Great video 😅
Free float the pin like high performance engines
That connecting rod kind of reminds me of a carbon fiber submersible…
The top of the rod snapped off, made the next round and hit the bearing witch flattened it and exploded the rod!
The rod shattered to pieces on the single power stroke. The piston shot down with the wrist pin bearing slamming the crank.
You 3d print a rod. Then use it as a reverse mold for casting a rod.
Piston kissed the crank. That would be the only way I see that bearing cracking like that. Explosion. Did that and pushed the piston down. Poor 3D printed rod had no chance.
The top of the rod broke during compression, on the second revolution the rod hit the bearing.
The working theory at this point is that the only flat spot to hit is the bolts in the rod. We think the top and piston slammed down into the head of the rod bolt.
It's tricky to print but Nylon might last a few hits
Make the rod much shorter to have 5:1 compression or something, might work
Question: why would you “prototype” a aluminum rod. “Go power sports” already sells all this and that for mod upgrades. Just wasting time.!! Now this 3d rod is a neat experiment so that’s cool!! Obviously will fail but still cool
My prediction is 10 seconds before catastrophic failure.
Edit: Well darn.... On a side note, your kid completely losing it is spreading that laughter too.
with all these theories, now you gotta put cameras in it and see who guessed right
Lack of support tore the bearing apart, the bottom end failed because of the Rod flopping around
Love ya guys
Next try making one with rebar
You should have used carbon fiber filament
It snapped at the bearing the rest of the rod came up smacked the bearing and exploded
Thats crazy . Think of the fun your giving your son. He's a neet kid.
I don't even like the thought of using an aluminum conrod 😮, my Suzuki m120x powered moped has a cast iron one that is more comfortable 😅
It might run but i wouldn't put any load on it
What do you mean younthink the valves are a little bit out of tune??? WhT are you talking about.
3d printed connecting rod that is a strange thing to do but it might work
17:30 @yet
Do I connect you by Bobby snapped in the middle of my guess is