nice. im looking to get hired for sales specialist position at a hardware store. I have much knowledge about construction from working with my dad for over 15 years now but this helps brushing up a lot.
At Mark 3:40, you show the inside of the metal frame. Where did that metal frame come from; a previous different kind of window? I ask because I bought my house with vinyl windows but that metal frame is still visible behind the trim inside and I am wondering if this is reminiscent of an old window style and if so, what that might be. I know the house was built with casement windows and I want to know if the windows went from the casement to the vinyl or if there was some other window in between these 2 styles of window. I just don't know enough about to know whether the frame is universal and can be user over and over again regardless of its material. Basically, I'm trying to find out unequivocally whether my windows were retrofitted when they went from casement to vinyl or casement to possibly something else then vinyl. Based on talking to the previous owner, he says he only remembers the casement windows. My contractor was the 1 to tell me to look to see what was behind the trim and that if it was aluminum, then they likely were retrofit and if they were wood, they were not retrofit but he emphasized "likely" because he said that the size of the opening could have been changed. I'm not sure how to determine that part though. Any input would help. Thank you
Watching the Pella video it would appear that you've missed a bunch of steps including flashing tape, several rounds of sealants, and shimming. Perhaps those were edited out.
I love seeing things done properly. Ty I need help to replace my windows. I can’t live with the barking dog next door anymore. Sound sails right through these cheap aluminum windows my husband used. I hope I can do it
Why wouldn't you spec the job to pull the old outside trim and put the zbar behind it with caulking and flashing? This method seems to leave you with only one 1/4 inch hidden bead of caulk, vs two layers of protection.
Have questions. Looking to replace our windows in our Fl stucco home. But all I can find is examples of retro fit/ replacement windows for the western area which include the z bar frame which works with a window that sits flush with the outside wall. Ours does not. From my research I think ours is Deep recess with beveled sides and stucco sill. Not sure that it qualifies for deep but it is recessed and beveled all the way around the window. So I really can't figure out what windows we need to be looking at . Its very confusing. Your video seems to make the most sense to me but I am not sure ours would work this way only due to the face that we have very narrow windows and very small amount of aluminum frame showing. We really wanted to replace them with some new aluminum windows rather than vinyl ones so thats another issue. I would really Appreciate any help and info you can share with us on this. I looked CWD Windows up and you all have turned into the brand of window we have been looking at so that was a Big plus too. So really hoping you can help us out. Our windows are something like 25x 72 approx. We have 5 this size then various other sizes around. Plus we have two windows that make a corner in the front window to window so that is a whole other mess of questions needing to be asked . Anyway I look forward to hearing back from you and Really Appreciate any help you can give us. Also if you have a contact address or number would Appreciate that cause I have a feeling we are going to have lot of questions before we get started and during the process. Oh by the way we are DIY-ers! thanks jm
great video....one question. can a retrofit window be install in an new construction addition to match the rest of the existing retrofit windows around the house? I was informed by the inspector that I have to use a nail on for the addition. thanks
Khoa Nguyen my fiancé works with windows, his company does this all the time. They use a composite piece of material 7/8th of an inch thick as a backer and use really good silicone and nail to the house and set the retro on top of the composite and install as usual. Never had any leaks. Always passes inspection. Then it gets stuccoed in and it looks as if it was always a retro.
That installation of the "new construction" widow in this video is abysmal. The flashing is a type archaic, it must have been sitting on a shelf in the shop. That type of flashing isn't even sold anymore (and for good reason). The window was set without sealant. The fasteners are not corrosion resistant, are not place in the prepunched holes and are too close to the corners of the window frame. Look up AAMA 2400 if you want to know how to install a window.
What is this video misses is how your original window is in stalled will determine your satisfaction with a retrofit vs new install. If you existing widow is flush to near flush to the exterior wall a retrofit will be ok. If your existing window is flush to near flush to the interior will go with a new install it will be much more satisfying. I had both Skylanders in my house and I'm very unhappy with the windows that were near flush to the interior ball. This is something not covered by my installer, wish I'd sent the extra cash for new install. Also, take a good look at your current aluminum window frame, on many 50's-60's the sliding track is removable without damage to the frame as the slide tracks are screwed in. Removing these tracks allows for a larger window. Another thing missed by my Millgard approved installer!
There is a building science there is a concept called a thermal bridge. When one section of a wall conducts heat quicker than another it is referred to a thermal bridge. In the case of retrofit windows against a metal - typically aluminum - frame from the old window you have a thermal bridge problem. This is because the vinyl conducts heat or cold differently than the metal. Metal is of course more efficient and so less r-value. This creates the possibility of condensation. The solution is a thermal break or insulation between the two different materials. Like when code requires a sill seal, a thin layer of rolled foam, between the wood stud and the concrete. I don't see any seal between the metal and vinyl in this install and so according to the science there is a thermal bridge that will inevitably cause condensation and rot. In other words this installation will fail. The caulking is not a thermal break, it just seals against outside elements. Can you explain why you neglected to install, or perhaps film, the proper installation of a thermal break - which is required by many codes these days.
For the love of god can I find a video on custom measured windows that have o guns or nail tabs... it’s like nobody uses window nation type windows. Just junk from home depot
Typical contractor cutting corners. The correct way to install this window is to cut the metal frame of the old window all the way to the originsl opening of the wooden frame. Yes, you will need to buy a slightly larger window to fit in the opening.
This video was very informative. I like the silliness at the end. Thank you.
nice. im looking to get hired for sales specialist position at a hardware store. I have much knowledge about construction from working with my dad for over 15 years now but this helps brushing up a lot.
At Mark 3:40, you show the inside of the metal frame. Where did that metal frame come from; a previous different kind of window? I ask because I bought my house with vinyl windows but that metal frame is still visible behind the trim inside and I am wondering if this is reminiscent of an old window style and if so, what that might be. I know the house was built with casement windows and I want to know if the windows went from the casement to the vinyl or if there was some other window in between these 2 styles of window. I just don't know enough about to know whether the frame is universal and can be user over and over again regardless of its material. Basically, I'm trying to find out unequivocally whether my windows were retrofitted when they went from casement to vinyl or casement to possibly something else then vinyl. Based on talking to the previous owner, he says he only remembers the casement windows. My contractor was the 1 to tell me to look to see what was behind the trim and that if it was aluminum, then they likely were retrofit and if they were wood, they were not retrofit but he emphasized "likely" because he said that the size of the opening could have been changed. I'm not sure how to determine that part though. Any input would help. Thank you
Watching the Pella video it would appear that you've missed a bunch of steps including flashing tape, several rounds of sealants, and shimming. Perhaps those were edited out.
Great job everyone explaining
I love seeing things done properly. Ty I need help to replace my windows. I can’t live with the barking dog next door anymore. Sound sails right through these cheap aluminum windows my husband used. I hope I can do it
Is he tied outside? For the most part dogs bark when they want something like food, water, attention.
If I want to replace with a retro-fit window, how should I measure the size of window?
Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.
And what about windows with no fins at all? Can’t find a video with a window nation type windows being installed
For the window with the wood trim, how is the measurement done when ordering the windows? Are you able to order a custom single wall flange size?
3:03
Why wouldn't you spec the job to pull the old outside trim and put the zbar behind it with caulking and flashing? This method seems to leave you with only one 1/4 inch hidden bead of caulk, vs two layers of protection.
is somebody going to say something about that ghost in the window
Have questions. Looking to replace our windows in our Fl stucco home. But all I can find is examples of retro fit/ replacement windows for the western area which include the z bar frame which works with a window that sits flush with the outside wall. Ours does not. From my research I think ours is Deep recess with
beveled sides and stucco sill. Not sure that it qualifies for deep but it is recessed and beveled all the way around the window. So I really can't figure out what windows we need to be looking at . Its very confusing. Your video seems to make the most sense to me but I am not sure ours would work this way only due to the face that we have very narrow windows and very small amount of aluminum frame showing. We really wanted to replace them with some new aluminum windows rather than vinyl ones so thats another issue.
I would really Appreciate any help and info you can share with us on this.
I looked CWD Windows up and you all have turned into the brand of window we have been looking at so that was a Big plus too. So really hoping you can help us out.
Our windows are something like 25x 72 approx. We have 5 this size then various other sizes around. Plus we have two windows that make a corner in the front window to window so that is a whole other mess of questions needing to be asked .
Anyway I look forward to hearing back from you and Really Appreciate any help you can give us.
Also if you have a contact address or number would Appreciate that cause I have a feeling we are going to have lot of questions before we get started and during the process.
Oh by the way we are DIY-ers!
thanks
jm
Hey Josie,
I'm in the same situation, what did you end up using?
Love this video, thank you.
Very well explained! Thanks for the refresher ;)
So does this leave my 50 year old mold in the cracks or what? My windows are nasty around the border.
NICE..loved the bloopers too 😂💯
great video....one question. can a retrofit window be install in an new construction addition to match the rest of the existing retrofit windows around the house? I was informed by the inspector that I have to use a nail on for the addition. thanks
Khoa Nguyen my fiancé works with windows, his company does this all the time. They use a composite piece of material 7/8th of an inch thick as a backer and use really good silicone and nail to the house and set the retro on top of the composite and install as usual. Never had any leaks. Always passes inspection. Then it gets stuccoed in and it looks as if it was always a retro.
So retro-fit windows basically rely on the caulk to keep them dry.
Good video. Funny outtakes.
what happens, i know, when the chalking fails
That installation of the "new construction" widow in this video is abysmal. The flashing is a type archaic, it must have been sitting on a shelf in the shop. That type of flashing isn't even sold anymore (and for good reason). The window was set without sealant. The fasteners are not corrosion resistant, are not place in the prepunched holes and are too close to the corners of the window frame. Look up AAMA 2400 if you want to know how to install a window.
Very helpful. Thank u.
Great video. Subbed
Thanks for the blopper's. I just started my own channel on TH-cam man do I have a lot of bloppers.
'
What is this video misses is how your original window is in stalled will determine your satisfaction with a retrofit vs new install. If you existing widow is flush to near flush to the exterior wall a retrofit will be ok. If your existing window is flush to near flush to the interior will go with a new install it will be much more satisfying. I had both Skylanders in my house and I'm very unhappy with the windows that were near flush to the interior ball. This is something not covered by my installer, wish I'd sent the extra cash for new install. Also, take a good look at your current aluminum window frame, on many 50's-60's the sliding track is removable without damage to the frame as the slide tracks are screwed in. Removing these tracks allows for a larger window. Another thing missed by my Millgard approved installer!
No shimming?
There is a building science there is a concept called a thermal bridge. When one section of a wall conducts heat quicker than another it is referred to a thermal bridge. In the case of retrofit windows against a metal - typically aluminum - frame from the old window you have a thermal bridge problem. This is because the vinyl conducts heat or cold differently than the metal. Metal is of course more efficient and so less r-value. This creates the possibility of condensation. The solution is a thermal break or insulation between the two different materials. Like when code requires a sill seal, a thin layer of rolled foam, between the wood stud and the concrete. I don't see any seal between the metal and vinyl in this install and so according to the science there is a thermal bridge that will inevitably cause condensation and rot. In other words this installation will fail. The caulking is not a thermal break, it just seals against outside elements. Can you explain why you neglected to install, or perhaps film, the proper installation of a thermal break - which is required by many codes these days.
Not to mention it's insulated with fiber glass and no air sealing what so ever
Awesome.. but glass should been removed first for safety.
For the love of god can I find a video on custom measured windows that have o guns or nail tabs... it’s like nobody uses window nation type windows. Just junk from home depot
Aluminumnumnum,, yep been there.
Centra retrofit windows
YangGang2020
Typical contractor cutting corners. The correct way to install this window is to cut the metal frame of the old window all the way to the originsl opening of the wooden frame. Yes, you will need to buy a slightly larger window to fit in the opening.