Get your DIY LiPo Supercharger here (shipped world-wide): www.elektor.com/greatscott-diy-lipo-supercharger-kit (FYI, I do get a commission for every sold kit) My last article in Elektor’s print-magazine: www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-151/58764 Check out Elektor’s TH-cam channel: th-cam.com/users/ElektorIM
Even though I'm probably not gonna use your design, due to not needing this, I'd to thank you for open sourcing it. The world would be cleaner if we'd have all the schematics
I’ve done a lot of soldering but almost no surface mount soldering. I needed the capabilities of your design so I ordered a kit. I have a fine soldering iron and tips that work with the 1206 parts. I found that good lighting and some magnifying glasses were required and bought some thin solder and paste flux that worked with it. Yes the transition to 21st century hand soldering is possible! The work can be tedious so frequent breaks are quite helpful as was periodic cleanup of the solder residue with 91% alcohol. The circuit worked just fine when completed. I wanted a protected converter of 12-14V to 5V for a QRP-Labs Ultimate 3S WSPR transmitter and find this project served just fine. Thank you for making this available!
Not just the discharge, I personally like to go for a charge cycle range of roughly 4.1v to 3.3v I think the slight loss in capacity is generally worth it for longer cell life.
@@vgamesx1 Can you link IC or components and the scheme (if possible) for 3.3v overdischarge protection please? I only found IC for 3.0v and it's a bit too low in my opinion as well.
Yea 2.5 seems low but it also sounds like getting an ic that stops above 3 is difficult. Might be better to consider that feature as protection for the lipo exclusively and work a cutoff into the workflow/design of the product being powered. I would've loved to see a voltage indicator even if it was just a handful of leds to make it easier to stop manually. Not hard to add tho.
2.5 v will be an issue for LiPo batteries, but Li-Ion would tolerate this much better without degrading the cells. With the size of the circuit board I could see wiring up a pair of 18650s in parallel for 6000 mah capacity working really well.
@@Ricardo-sx7ez Sorry, I'm not aware of any ICs that do that, there are some with a reference pin that can allow you to adjust the voltage but if I need that functionality I'll just use a microcontroller and there are a few ways of doing that, you use the onboard ADC, add an external ADC or use a voltage/current sensor. th-cam.com/video/UAJMLTzrM9Q/w-d-xo.html (you can skip the first 7 minutes) th-cam.com/video/cG8moaufmQs/w-d-xo.html It's a bit on the pricey side for battery monitoring but there's also the diyBMS project which I can highly recommend or just search for "how to measure voltage / monitor battery with [preferred micro of choice]"
i don't know why your not making kit's all the time because, loads of your projects and your DIY OR BUY projects are brilliant.. and i can see them doing very well mainly because of your channel. us people who will be buying them know we can trust the source.. P.S. love the 12v option on it : ) very good choice!!
Voltage meter kit, oscilloscope kit: single channel or dual channel, signal producer, transistor tester, zvs driver. The list goes on. Your channel is the best. Thank you.
Scott.. I am an old fart (68) and I have decided to teach myself electronics.. ok, ok..stop laughing.. all of you!! Most of this stuff is still over my head but you explain it so well that it helps me to understand. Yes, it does take me a bit longer now that I am as old as dirt..... I just wanted to say thanks Scott.. your show here is outstanding.. especially for those young 'uns that have a brain that can go at warp speed instead the old oatmeal brain I have now.. But! I am having fun and maybe if I live another 20 years I can figure this out.. thanks again brother carry on and have a Merry Christmas!
Got this kit as a gift. Just two remarks: For DIY home solderers it would be better to have thermal spokes on the ground connected pads. The ground plane leads too much heat away for low wattage soldering stations (and high power would be overkill for the rest) All input/output through-board holes should be spaced such that 2.54mm pitch pins could be placed directly.
I was confused when I first saw this. The video straightened me out! I guess the bottom line is that this PCB needs to stay attached (more or less) to a single-cell LiPO battery to enable it to both power a 5V or 12V project, and then later recharge the battery. Looks good! Without this project, we're limited to powering things that only require ~3 V power (with a single-cell LiPO battery).
I was so busy, got the notification, but wanted to watch it relaxed, while having my coffee - here I'm now, always interesting video - thanks GREAT 👍👍👍 SCOTT!!!
Wow i just clicked the notification. This is uploaded 8minutes ago now and it has already 2.4k views amazing!!!! Thanks for the video I learned a lot in this channel. Hello here from Philippines.😊
You should use some flux when soldering SMD, instead of relying on the flux inside the solder wire. This way you won't need to dab so much solder into the joint every time.
Congratulations on your first kit. One improvement could be increasing output current to 2 or 3 Amps so that it could be used to power portable projects like raspberry Pi.
If the over discharge protection goes down to 2.5 v then using Li-Ion cells would probably be a better choice than LiPo. 18650 or 21700 would both work well. This is a great looking project kit! Congrats on getting it all together.
Me too, I'd like to find a good design of 12VDC UPS based on two 18650 (for at least half an hour of backup power). This device should be able to stay permanently connected (so must be very safe) and delivering 8W to 10W of 12VDC regulated power. My intention is to provide uninterruptible power to a Fiber Optic router, originally powered by a AC/DC regulated 12VDC plugin module (this module should be reused to feed the mini UPS, so max 2S is required to preserve some margin for the LiPo charger. Might be necessary to use a Sepic converter for the regulated output if Vin >= Vout when AC powered).
Great video and awesome board! I recommend that you clean that flux with some iso. It'll help the people you influence to clean their boards as well which is just a great thing to practice.
No graphs? Thank you for another great video. I love your scientific approach in all of your videos. Thank you Great Scott. You also showed that you went through the trouble of measuring the output voltage/current at different loads and at different input voltages. I would love to see the graphs on that. I would even say that it merits a separate video. I'd love to see e.g. the efficiency of the circuit. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated... as every week. ChrisV
06:30 A bit of advice: do yourself a favor and get a flux pen so you can solder trough-hole components and give the solder a chance to flow so you'll end up with a small fillet that looks nice and is stronger than the ball-of-solder.
It's really nice to see this project, especially the USB C plug! By the way, you should do something against those iron tips. They look like they could use some good flux or something like that
Amazing kit! The only problem I would have is the 1.5A max output current. A lot of my projects need more than that but I know that’s not the point of this. Very cool!
I like the USB type C breakout board idea but you could integrate that into the project. If you look on the breakout board then you see a resistor and a capacitor. The resistance for sinking any power is independent of the resistance that will be on the cable's end. So pull-down resistors will always be 5.1kOHM on the CC1 and CC2 pins of the USB type C on your board. Also it looks like there is a capacitor that probably goes to the Vbus line for filtering. In the case that you need a power supply without ripple you would need to filter the Vbus line, after combining all the pins labeled Vbus together, with a 10u capacitor or a Pi filter. As well you see that it comes with the standard communication pins Dp and Dn on the board, well you'd just route them together as a differential pair and wire them to some IC like a serial-to-UART CH340C specifically to have communication with an ESP.
1) Using some liquid flux for soldering may help for getting better results. 2) For the short circuit protection, limiting the current may be dangerous. I think that part should be updated in the upcoming versions! All in all, great job and congratulations!
I made two of the old PCB. Not too happy indeed about the tiny sizes you choose, especially for the LED's. Also, the boost converter is not working on both. I'll try to make some more and see if it will work eventually. So the new kit might be an improvement, but is waaayyyy to expensive. But I guess that's in the hands of Elektor.
Following you since I started my Instrumentation Engineering and I displayed many of your projects in my college and received great appreciation. I gave full credit to you and used your EasyEDA designs to explain things to professors. I liked the short circuit protection video the most being an Instrumentation Engineer. And now in my final year in 2020-21 its a hats off to you that you are doing great. Love from India and thanks for always been my project partner and always the goto TH-camr whenever I don't understand certain things ❤️❤️❤️❤️
So, maybe this is a silly question, but can I use this kit to charge 18650 batteries? I'm working on a project where I need 12V output from a bunch of 18650s in parallel, and this seems to fit the bill pretty well, but unsure if this will fit the bill or if I need a proper BMS instead. The requirement is also that it needs to be able to charge the batteries with USB.
A lot in parallel with boost converter could work, depending on current needed, if it's very low, I'd go with single or parallel, if higher I'd go 3s with bms, and balance, maybe use a buck boost to regulate output, they make tiny 3s charge boards, that could use USB with boost to charge im working on a similar project, but low current, 1-2amps, 5amp max,
IDEA - something I am dying to see is "The best DIY car/motorbike/tractor - charger/maintainer in the world" - The emphasis would be in the maintainer part - Options: desulfactor, phone remote monitoring (alert?), battery type (VRLAB, Gel, AGM, Li, ...) So many people have those batteries sitting for month between usage, and suffer the frustation of dealing with a dead battery when they actually need them
Sadly radios have problem that every country has different regulations for frequency band and max output power. It would make a hard video to cover all or nearly unusable video to cover only one country.
I think the undervoltage Protektion is a Bit to low for lipos But for li-ion Batteries its fine. Becourse the li-ion can get discharged lower than lipos whithout any damage
Hi , suggestion for next project, create output voltage 5v and current 20A needed for running multiple servos like humanoid robot. At present this is one of the limitations many of us face
Hello sir ,my biggest dream of my life is that I need to become a person like you . your knowledge in electronics is just awesome ❤️❤️ Thanks for being my inspiration.i also make circuit (not like you😂) ❤️❤️🙏🙏🙏🙏
Nice circuit. I can only think of one potential flaw: what happens in case of a bad contact in the voltage selector switch? Or slow operation? So, with the voltage selector switch in an undefined state: will it output 0V, 5V, 12V, or any? This could potentially destroy electronic projects, so it's important to know.
You could always "hardwire" the connections and leave out the switch, if you're really worried about that. Then you just wire each one for a specific output for a specific project--since after all, this PCB should travel with the battery that it's charging and "extending" the output of. Sounds like a match to me!
Awesome project! Love it. Request for future project, convert an ordinary clothing iron to an SMD hot plate. Lcd/led display to shows target temperature and real world temperature.
@@ThisOldChris the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott, free for everyone :)
Really cool! It just so happened that I made a QC2.0 PCB very recently for a powerbank which used a TPS61088 and such an e-Fuse. That chip was QFN-20 and I just wish it was so easy to solder as this one (for SMD standards ofc)...
If I may: my wishlist for the next version: - 3.3V output (many ICs like the ESP32 and many sensors now run on 3.3V) - any energy harvesting charging input - USB PD support, maybe
There is also electronic design minimalist, just we think about the amount of energy (equivalent of polluting emissions) to make each electronic devices since the various industrial emporiums.
Better to err a bit low than a bit high when dealing with highly volatile lithium batteries. I would actually like to see an option to lower the charge voltage to 4.1V or 4.15V, that would give you a lot more cycles from the battery.
Hey, great Video! I plan to actually salvage a Battery from an old tablet that I no longer use. I think that with that circuit, it could make a great Powerbank!
i found an assembled version for cheapst on china and its now terminated but both have a very poor output ampere is exist an assempled version of 3A or 5A somewhere ?
For handsoldering 2-pin SMD components i find it most comfy to pre-tin one of the pads. if you do this, the part doesnt bounce around and also the connection is cleaner.
Cool project. Would it be possible for you to do a video on a circuit for hot swapping batteries? Maybe to power a raspberry pi with it? Keep up the good work.
1A is really low these days; a RPi4 takes 3A to operate without problems; many tablets and phones take 2 and 2.5A when doing multimedia over wifi.The voltage is the easy parameter to boost or down with lots of tiny inexpensive dc-dc converters
that's a cool circuit, but the lower voltage "protection" chip is too low I think, as it is understood that a Lipo will be permanently damaged at a voltage below 3.0V, and it is recommended to not discharge a lipo less than 3.2-3.3V. So I would try to change the protection chip with one that cuts-off the battery at 3.2V or 3.3V. I do not know of such chip however
YESS! Awesome!! Nice work! Buying one or two or three. A couple of questions though, the over-discharge protection, at first in the video you show 2.9V and later you show 2.5V. Which one is the correct? Also, 2.5v is good for li-ion but isn’t it too low for lipo??? What’s the difference between overdischarge detection and overdischarge release? Is it that once it goes down to 2.5v it will disconnect the load and only until the cell voltage has gone up to 3v it will reconnect the batt?
@Joachim Shekelberg I have USB-C in my phone and im not fan of it. Granted I have had this phone a couple years now but the port is failing. Panel mounted USB is much easier to repair, but nowadays no one is using them as it takes so much more space.
This is great news. Really excited about your projects in kit form. I'd love to see them all, but I guess you should start with the most popular. Thanks for all your really excellent work 👍
I rather woud have a protection at 2.9v or 3.0v instead of 2.5v !! Many LiPo's get bloaded if you go that deep, that's why you have a protection in the first place !! Don't understand why you deside 2.5v would be a good choice, I don't call that protection. Anyway I like the rest of the circuit, good job !!!!
Hey Scott, im a mechatronics student and an aspiring engineer and I've been loving your content ever since i came accross your channel! I want to ask if you could share some of your background (universities/degrees). Also, you have so much stuff in your workshop! So many (and most importantly expensive) machinery. You look so young so I was wondering if you could share your age. (I understand that these are rather personal questions so I would understand if you don't want to answer!) Nevertheless, keep up the great content!
What happens when the over-discharge protection kicks in, your project turns off. If the battery recovers slightly, will the output come back on, causing it to bounce again?
@@derpsquad3306 I somewhat doubt the quality is guaranteed, as in the price difference is made up by additional checks beyond what you would usually get from AliExpress. I'm sure the guaranteed quality applies to the individual components e.g. from Texas instruments - and maybe the store can elaborate- but I'm guessing you can never exclude some manufacturing faults and there may not be an inherent guarantee if you assemble it yourself
Some of the cost goes to Elektor and Great Scott for profit, and some of the appeal of the kit with the increased cost is the ability to assemble it yourself. I imagine there are already dozens of competing boards that are already assembled available from AliExpress/Banggood/eBay.
This is a good thing.. But... With many things now dropping to 3.3v it's not much use to me now... With battery projects. But there is a solution which is cheap and easy. A step down can be put on the battery terminals... But this need to be put on the protection circuit to shut things down when the battery level drops. Modular break outs here we come. A nice little OSI and display. WiFi control and readings..
Get your DIY LiPo Supercharger here (shipped world-wide):
www.elektor.com/greatscott-diy-lipo-supercharger-kit
(FYI, I do get a commission for every sold kit)
My last article in Elektor’s print-magazine: www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-151/58764
Check out Elektor’s TH-cam channel: th-cam.com/users/ElektorIM
Big fan of yours
2nd ?
Nice one. In the video you tell, there are Gerbers and such stuff available. I cannot find those behind the given link. Could you clarify, please?
Great Project!
Is there a way to modify this to work with LifePO4 batteries ? Ideally auto sensing the battery type ?
Where are the links to the schematics?
Great project and congratulations on the Elektor project.
Thanks :-)
Patreon?
@@animatrix1851 yes
@@animatrix1851 yes yes patreon...........
@@ElderGod29 lol ass
0:44 Look Mom, I'm on TH-cam!
lol
😂
🥳🎊
gratz
who gives a shit
Elektor fan since 30 yrs. Good man
Even though I'm probably not gonna use your design, due to not needing this, I'd to thank you for open sourcing it. The world would be cleaner if we'd have all the schematics
I just ordered my kit ! I've been a fan of Elektor for over 40 years, so I couldn't let this pass...
I’ve done a lot of soldering but almost no surface mount soldering. I needed the capabilities of your design so I ordered a kit.
I have a fine soldering iron and tips that work with the 1206 parts. I found that good lighting and some magnifying glasses were required and bought some thin solder and paste flux that worked with it.
Yes the transition to 21st century hand soldering is possible! The work can be tedious so frequent breaks are quite helpful as was periodic cleanup of the solder residue with 91% alcohol.
The circuit worked just fine when completed. I wanted a protected converter of 12-14V to 5V for a QRP-Labs Ultimate 3S WSPR transmitter and find this project served just fine.
Thank you for making this available!
I hope you make it 'adjustable' for voltage discharge protection some people don't like to push battery to 2.5v
Not just the discharge, I personally like to go for a charge cycle range of roughly 4.1v to 3.3v I think the slight loss in capacity is generally worth it for longer cell life.
@@vgamesx1 Can you link IC or components and the scheme (if possible) for 3.3v overdischarge protection please?
I only found IC for 3.0v and it's a bit too low in my opinion as well.
Yea 2.5 seems low but it also sounds like getting an ic that stops above 3 is difficult. Might be better to consider that feature as protection for the lipo exclusively and work a cutoff into the workflow/design of the product being powered. I would've loved to see a voltage indicator even if it was just a handful of leds to make it easier to stop manually. Not hard to add tho.
2.5 v will be an issue for LiPo batteries, but Li-Ion would tolerate this much better without degrading the cells. With the size of the circuit board I could see wiring up a pair of 18650s in parallel for 6000 mah capacity working really well.
@@Ricardo-sx7ez Sorry, I'm not aware of any ICs that do that, there are some with a reference pin that can allow you to adjust the voltage but if I need that functionality I'll just use a microcontroller and there are a few ways of doing that, you use the onboard ADC, add an external ADC or use a voltage/current sensor.
th-cam.com/video/UAJMLTzrM9Q/w-d-xo.html (you can skip the first 7 minutes)
th-cam.com/video/cG8moaufmQs/w-d-xo.html
It's a bit on the pricey side for battery monitoring but there's also the diyBMS project which I can highly recommend or just search for "how to measure voltage / monitor battery with [preferred micro of choice]"
NICE!
I think the 5V 12V switch should have been a jumper of some kind.
You don't want to run the risk of accidentally changing to 12V
That's why GreatScott! gave us the 12V indicator LED. It will tell us right away why our powered devices released the magic smoke.
@@PeteBo lol. That's right!
I'm glad you and your channel have been so successful.
Thank you so much!
@@greatscottlab kit both links broken
Just finished building one of these bought from SparkFun. Works great! Nice little kit - great instructions - worked first time. :)
i don't know why your not making kit's all the time because, loads of your projects and your DIY OR BUY projects are brilliant.. and i can see them doing very well mainly because of your channel. us people who will be buying them know we can trust the source.. P.S. love the 12v option on it : ) very good choice!!
Voltage meter kit, oscilloscope kit: single channel or dual channel, signal producer, transistor tester, zvs driver. The list goes on. Your channel is the best. Thank you.
Scott.. I am an old fart (68) and I have decided to teach myself electronics.. ok, ok..stop laughing.. all of you!! Most of this stuff is still over my head but you explain it so well that it helps me to understand. Yes, it does take me a bit longer now that I am as old as dirt..... I just wanted to say thanks Scott.. your show here is outstanding.. especially for those young 'uns that have a brain that can go at warp speed instead the old oatmeal brain I have now.. But! I am having fun and maybe if I live another 20 years I can figure this out.. thanks again brother carry on and have a Merry Christmas!
Most underrated electronics channel on TH-cam!!
Got this kit as a gift.
Just two remarks:
For DIY home solderers it would be better to have thermal spokes on the ground connected pads. The ground plane leads too much heat away for low wattage soldering stations (and high power would be overkill for the rest)
All input/output through-board holes should be spaced such that 2.54mm pitch pins could be placed directly.
I was confused when I first saw this. The video straightened me out!
I guess the bottom line is that this PCB needs to stay attached (more or less) to a single-cell LiPO battery to enable it to both power a 5V or 12V project, and then later recharge the battery. Looks good!
Without this project, we're limited to powering things that only require ~3 V power (with a single-cell LiPO battery).
I was so busy, got the notification, but wanted to watch it relaxed, while having my coffee - here I'm now, always interesting video - thanks GREAT 👍👍👍 SCOTT!!!
Wow i just clicked the notification. This is uploaded 8minutes ago now and it has already 2.4k views amazing!!!! Thanks for the video I learned a lot in this channel. Hello here from Philippines.😊
Thanks :-)
4:54 放电完成 = discharge complete
You should use some flux when soldering SMD, instead of relying on the flux inside the solder wire. This way you won't need to dab so much solder into the joint every time.
I'd love to see something like this but for multiple cell lipo batteries! This would be perfect for many of my projects but I rarely use a 1s lipo.
You and ElectroBoom are my best teacher
less than 2 minutes in and I bought one! thanks!
Congratulations on your first kit. One improvement could be increasing output current to 2 or 3 Amps so that it could be used to power portable projects like raspberry Pi.
If the over discharge protection goes down to 2.5 v then using Li-Ion cells would probably be a better choice than LiPo. 18650 or 21700 would both work well. This is a great looking project kit! Congrats on getting it all together.
I would love to see a boosted board kit. 😂
You can build one using MC34063 IC, for example 5V to 12V
@@RANDOMfilmsOFFICJAL Try looking up what "boosted board" is ...
Great , but I would love some charge protect circuits for multiple configurations like 1S or 2S or 2S2P of 18650 li-ion.
I’ll add my vote for that too!!
Certainly many gadgets are 12 V powered, a 3 S Lipo version would be appreciated
Me too, I'd like to find a good design of 12VDC UPS based on two 18650 (for at least half an hour of backup power).
This device should be able to stay permanently connected (so must be very safe) and delivering 8W to 10W of 12VDC regulated power. My intention is to provide uninterruptible power to a Fiber Optic router, originally powered by a AC/DC regulated 12VDC plugin module (this module should be reused to feed the mini UPS, so max 2S is required to preserve some margin for the LiPo charger. Might be necessary to use a Sepic converter for the regulated output if Vin >= Vout when AC powered).
Great video and awesome board! I recommend that you clean that flux with some iso. It'll help the people you influence to clean their boards as well which is just a great thing to practice.
No graphs?
Thank you for another great video. I love your scientific approach in all of your videos.
Thank you Great Scott.
You also showed that you went through the trouble of measuring the output voltage/current at different loads and at different input voltages. I would love to see the graphs on that. I would even say that it merits a separate video. I'd love to see e.g. the efficiency of the circuit.
Keep up the great work.
Much appreciated... as every week.
ChrisV
06:30 A bit of advice: do yourself a favor and get a flux pen so you can solder trough-hole components and give the solder a chance to flow so you'll end up with a small fillet that looks nice and is stronger than the ball-of-solder.
I Read title and screamed “YES!”
It's really nice to see this project, especially the USB C plug! By the way, you should do something against those iron tips. They look like they could use some good flux or something like that
Thank you for sharing this useful designs 🥺. Found it very useful for my final project.
Amazing kit! The only problem I would have is the 1.5A max output current. A lot of my projects need more than that but I know that’s not the point of this. Very cool!
ABOUT TIME.............congratulations on the Elektor project.
I like the USB type C breakout board idea but you could integrate that into the project. If you look on the breakout board then you see a resistor and a capacitor. The resistance for sinking any power is independent of the resistance that will be on the cable's end. So pull-down resistors will always be 5.1kOHM on the CC1 and CC2 pins of the USB type C on your board. Also it looks like there is a capacitor that probably goes to the Vbus line for filtering. In the case that you need a power supply without ripple you would need to filter the Vbus line, after combining all the pins labeled Vbus together, with a 10u capacitor or a Pi filter. As well you see that it comes with the standard communication pins Dp and Dn on the board, well you'd just route them together as a differential pair and wire them to some IC like a serial-to-UART CH340C specifically to have communication with an ESP.
Great work Scott. Congrats for that next milestone.
Congratulations on the collaborative project!
1) Using some liquid flux for soldering may help for getting better results.
2) For the short circuit protection, limiting the current may be dangerous. I think that part should be updated in the upcoming versions!
All in all, great job and congratulations!
Ah, Sunday with your video and a cup of coffee
I made two of the old PCB. Not too happy indeed about the tiny sizes you choose, especially for the LED's. Also, the boost converter is not working on both. I'll try to make some more and see if it will work eventually.
So the new kit might be an improvement, but is waaayyyy to expensive. But I guess that's in the hands of Elektor.
Congratz on the kit! Hope these will be available pre-soldered in the future.
Following you since I started my Instrumentation Engineering and I displayed many of your projects in my college and received great appreciation. I gave full credit to you and used your EasyEDA designs to explain things to professors. I liked the short circuit protection video the most being an Instrumentation Engineer. And now in my final year in 2020-21 its a hats off to you that you are doing great. Love from India and thanks for always been my project partner and always the goto TH-camr whenever I don't understand certain things ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Congrats on the elector project. Useful as always and thx for sharing.
So, maybe this is a silly question, but can I use this kit to charge 18650 batteries? I'm working on a project where I need 12V output from a bunch of 18650s in parallel, and this seems to fit the bill pretty well, but unsure if this will fit the bill or if I need a proper BMS instead. The requirement is also that it needs to be able to charge the batteries with USB.
Yep. 18650 will work.
@@greatscottlab Neato! May have to give this a look then. Cheers!
Why don't you use them in series? It's more efficient (and more complicated to balance)
A lot in parallel with boost converter could work, depending on current needed, if it's very low, I'd go with single or parallel, if higher I'd go 3s with bms, and balance, maybe use a buck boost to regulate output, they make tiny 3s charge boards, that could use USB with boost to charge im working on a similar project, but low current, 1-2amps, 5amp max,
Although lifepo4 will work for 12v much better with 4s coming to 12.8v nominal, and 14.4/14.8 full charge, and is much less flammable !
@2m30s: You should clean your soldering iron between each connection. It should be clean and shiney. Use a damp sponge.
where do you get your pens? they look very satisfying to write with!
Those are STABILO Fineliner point 88 - a must have inventory of every student from the elementary school on in germany
@@ferdi93ferdi they're a thing in poland too, love em, really great for any fine-line... pretty much anything :)
@@ferdi93ferdi we have them here in the Netherlands aswell
@@ferdi93ferdi thank you! Now to find out if they are available for Canada
Success.
IDEA - something I am dying to see is "The best DIY car/motorbike/tractor - charger/maintainer in the world"
- The emphasis would be in the maintainer part
- Options: desulfactor, phone remote monitoring (alert?), battery type (VRLAB, Gel, AGM, Li, ...)
So many people have those batteries sitting for month between usage, and suffer the frustation of dealing with a dead battery when they actually need them
We need a radio walkie talkie kit
Simple one 💓
Sadly radios have problem that every country has different regulations for frequency band and max output power. It would make a hard video to cover all or nearly unusable video to cover only one country.
Congratulations on the kit from a long time subscriber.
Thank you very much!
This is a great circuit, i love the 5v 12v combo.
I think the undervoltage Protektion is a Bit to low for lipos But for li-ion Batteries its fine. Becourse the li-ion can get discharged lower than lipos whithout any damage
Hi , suggestion for next project, create output voltage 5v and current 20A needed for running multiple servos like humanoid robot. At present this is one of the limitations many of us face
Hello sir ,my biggest dream of my life is that I need to become a person like you . your knowledge in electronics is just awesome ❤️❤️
Thanks for being my inspiration.i also make circuit (not like you😂) ❤️❤️🙏🙏🙏🙏
This looks like a handy device to have, good size too.
congrats on the kit. Looks useful !!
Nice circuit. I can only think of one potential flaw: what happens in case of a bad contact in the voltage selector switch? Or slow operation? So, with the voltage selector switch in an undefined state: will it output 0V, 5V, 12V, or any?
This could potentially destroy electronic projects, so it's important to know.
You could always "hardwire" the connections and leave out the switch, if you're really worried about that.
Then you just wire each one for a specific output for a specific project--since after all, this PCB should travel with the battery that it's charging and "extending" the output of. Sounds like a match to me!
I'd like to know how to set the high voltage output to 9v instead of 12v. I'm rather new to circuit design so I'm not sure where to start.
Awesome project! Love it. Request for future project, convert an ordinary clothing iron to an SMD hot plate. Lcd/led display to shows target temperature and real world temperature.
Any chance that the charge and cutoff voltages be modified? I'd love to have a charge voltage of 4v and cutoff of 3.2v.
Did you bother looking at the datasheet for the charging IC?
Lithium cells need to work within a certain range
Nice you made it free for all to enjoy 👍
I can't find the Gerber files. Does someone have a link to them?
the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott
@@ThisOldChris the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott, free for everyone :)
@@ElektorTV Thanks for the reply :D
Really cool! It just so happened that I made a QC2.0 PCB very recently for a powerbank which used a TPS61088 and such an e-Fuse. That chip was QFN-20 and I just wish it was so easy to solder as this one (for SMD standards ofc)...
Does this even work with a true USB-C Wall-Adapter? Because the CC-Pins lack the needed Pull-Down resistors in the schematic.
If I may: my wishlist for the next version:
- 3.3V output (many ICs like the ESP32 and many sensors now run on 3.3V)
- any energy harvesting charging input
- USB PD support, maybe
Awesome project bro i recommend that you try to use the pam8403 and try to get rid of the noise that generated by the ic
Oh for sure. Learnt a lot. Thanks
There is also electronic design minimalist, just we think about the amount of energy (equivalent of polluting emissions) to make each electronic devices since the various industrial emporiums.
Amazing! Is there any interest in the future to make a usb-c pd version of this for higher power projects?
Especially for lead acid 13.4v...
_"And a battery voltage of 4.19V, perfect!"_ 7:20
My dude, you're one number away from making that the perfect voltage and perfect number!
Better to err a bit low than a bit high when dealing with highly volatile lithium batteries. I would actually like to see an option to lower the charge voltage to 4.1V or 4.15V, that would give you a lot more cycles from the battery.
Hey, great Video! I plan to actually salvage a Battery from an old tablet that I no longer use. I think that with that circuit, it could make a great Powerbank!
Fantastic project, well thought out!
1 question, if the battery is charging through the USB, will the output be disabled, or still be usable?
Output is still usable.
i found an assembled version for cheapst on china and its now terminated
but both have a very poor output ampere
is exist an assempled version of 3A or 5A somewhere ?
For handsoldering 2-pin SMD components i find it most comfy to pre-tin one of the pads. if you do this, the part doesnt bounce around and also the connection is cleaner.
If you use flat tip for the soldering iron and 0.5mm solder, your soldering will be WAY easier and cleaner! :)
Cool project. Would it be possible for you to do a video on a circuit for hot swapping batteries? Maybe to power a raspberry pi with it? Keep up the good work.
1A is really low these days; a RPi4 takes 3A to operate without problems; many tablets and phones take 2 and 2.5A when doing multimedia over wifi.The voltage is the easy parameter to boost or down with lots of tiny inexpensive dc-dc converters
A "walkie talkie" radio kit with both voice and texting would be awesome!
A kit of a digital constant load, with voltage, current and power control would be awesome.
I like your videos 👌
You explain the things very well 👍
Thanks a lot 😊
that's a cool circuit, but the lower voltage "protection" chip is too low I think, as it is understood that a Lipo will be permanently damaged at a voltage below 3.0V, and it is recommended to not discharge a lipo less than 3.2-3.3V. So I would try to change the protection chip with one that cuts-off the battery at 3.2V or 3.3V. I do not know of such chip however
Hello sir I really like your videos for doing diy..so i decide to make a videos also of diy projects.. Thank u so much sir.. Congratulations
YESS! Awesome!! Nice work! Buying one or two or three.
A couple of questions though, the over-discharge protection, at first in the video you show 2.9V and later you show 2.5V. Which one is the correct? Also, 2.5v is good for li-ion but isn’t it too low for lipo???
What’s the difference between overdischarge detection and overdischarge release? Is it that once it goes down to 2.5v it will disconnect the load and only until the cell voltage has gone up to 3v it will reconnect the batt?
2:35 I have not a single USB-C device at home... does that mean I’m outdated?
I have one new usb c phone, but the rest of my stuff is micro usb. Would prefer that.
yes
@Joachim Shekelberg I have USB-C in my phone and im not fan of it. Granted I have had this phone a couple years now but the port is failing. Panel mounted USB is much easier to repair, but nowadays no one is using them as it takes so much more space.
Cool idea!
Please lower your soldering temperature. 360 °C is too high, your flux is just burning away. 330 °C is sufficient.
I want all of your projects as kit😂
please do uni-solder kit next project. would be great with additional feature to drive c210 c115 tips.
This is great news. Really excited about your projects in kit form. I'd love to see them all, but I guess you should start with the most popular. Thanks for all your really excellent work 👍
I rather woud have a protection at 2.9v or 3.0v instead of 2.5v !!
Many LiPo's get bloaded if you go that deep, that's why you have a protection in the first place !!
Don't understand why you deside 2.5v would be a good choice, I don't call that protection.
Anyway I like the rest of the circuit, good job !!!!
Hi .. nice meet you again !!
Thank you, I love this kind of kit from your very useful project, placed order for the kit.
Other project like soft-starter is also useful.
Great video by Great Scott
Hey Scott, im a mechatronics student and an aspiring engineer and I've been loving your content ever since i came accross your channel! I want to ask if you could share some of your background (universities/degrees).
Also, you have so much stuff in your workshop! So many (and most importantly expensive) machinery. You look so young so I was wondering if you could share your age.
(I understand that these are rather personal questions so I would understand if you don't want to answer!)
Nevertheless, keep up the great content!
What happens when the over-discharge protection kicks in, your project turns off. If the battery recovers slightly, will the output come back on, causing it to bounce again?
nope, the overdischarge releases at 3V, check out the datasheet
@@maks886 Ah nice.
you need good soldering flux in smd soldering it make smd like 0805 0603 component a lot easier than without flux.
those soldering are horrible that will be fixed with a good plenty of flux and not rely on the flux of the solder
23 EUR is sadly very hard competition with Aliexpress alternatives :-(
Guaranteed quality though?
@@derpsquad3306 I somewhat doubt the quality is guaranteed, as in the price difference is made up by additional checks beyond what you would usually get from AliExpress. I'm sure the guaranteed quality applies to the individual components e.g. from Texas instruments - and maybe the store can elaborate- but I'm guessing you can never exclude some manufacturing faults and there may not be an inherent guarantee if you assemble it yourself
Some of the cost goes to Elektor and Great Scott for profit, and some of the appeal of the kit with the increased cost is the ability to assemble it yourself. I imagine there are already dozens of competing boards that are already assembled available from AliExpress/Banggood/eBay.
Awesome project!
Love your projects they inspire me to create
This is a good thing..
But... With many things now dropping to 3.3v it's not much use to me now...
With battery projects. But there is a solution which is cheap and easy. A step down can be put on the battery terminals...
But this need to be put on the protection circuit to shut things down when the battery level drops.
Modular break outs here we come.
A nice little OSI and display.
WiFi control and readings..