I appreciate that you still maintain the same format as from the beginning of the channel, Videos solely aimed at educating the viewers by sharing your experience and no unnecessary fluff added with channel growth.
You going through the datasheet really brightened up things for me about these boards. Those definitely will be better for projects with higher cell count 4+ and safer than usual charging power adapters. Might add one of those to my speaker to finally have a reliable way of charging the 5s battery inside it.
I would be careful at least above 4+ cells. Because the seller made an hint and there is a comment, which say that a "Triode" is just rated for 16.8V. That isn't even reserve for 4S and probably will blow up at 4+ (which happend to the commentator)
Oh yeah! Can use that board to charge up the 4s2p Battery in my Torch now. Just unfortunate the board does not have separate output pads. Cant use the 4 LEDs
@@somethinks5624 oh yeah, you're right I was scrolling through AliExpress and found a review also mentioning that, I guess I'll wait a bit until there will be a fix or the manufacturer releases a fix ( which probably is unlikely)
For someone wanting to read the actual guidelines, look for "IATA dangerous goods regulations, table 2.3". Here it says: "Batteries, spare/loose, [...] power banks are considered as spare batteries [...] Lithium ion batteries: the Watt-hour rating must not exceed 100 Wh". You are allowed to carry up to 20 seperate batteries though, so just building multiple Powerbanks with 100Wh each would allowed on a plane.
Not too long ago I've made my own modular powerbank using laptop batteries. With swappable batteries, and a buck boost converter it provides great results to a USB 3.1. I think I'll revisit it to give me USB C and some power monitoring. Great Video (:
The issue is if you want to travel with a power bank, airlines limit power banks to 100wh. That’s why you tend to see most of the sold power banks below 100 wh
have looked at this exact pcb before as well as the manufacturer. Their stuff seems quality. The product which caught my eye the most was the DIY powerbank from them themselves, where you just add your own batteries. There are different models with different amount of battery holders for example 8, 16 and 24 cells. It uses the same chip IP5389 and in my opinion is the best case scenario because you get both high capacity and easy of use.
Do you have a link to what you have found? I'd like to look more into this. Plus, I think this board Scott tested seems to have lead connections to monitor the cells itself.
WOW! Thanks for the tip, Jovaras. That store was amazing. I ordered the IP5389 w/ batteries module on the spot. But I doubt it will come with eight batteries (38Wh), probably just four (19Wh) but still a great deal.
@@bfelten1 I think they have 2 versions, one without batteries and one with. I am almost certain that if you buy the version with the batteries it will come with all 8 with the rate capacity of 20800mAh, around 74 Wh. If you bought the 8 battery cell version
Also useful in that shipping batteries internationally can be a real pain, so you can source your batteries locally, but ship the other parts from overseas without issue!
Thank you for making this video I built an 18650 4s5p power bank. These modules are excellent and I have 3 installed on battery. Perfect operation at 4s but I've noticed that if you want to hit the 100 watt max you must configure at 6s. Otherwise it will provide 3 amps in all voltages. I installed a 4s flying capacitor balancer. The board having a built in bms is super handy. Thank you.
Hey, sorry to bother you, do you mean that you connected more than one board to the powerbank to get multiple outputs? If that is the case how does the remaining capacity measurement work? Do all of them still show the correct value? Thanks in advance!
It operates as normal the indicator bars are not accurate. I just go off pack voltage. It operates between 11.9v and 16.7v. all of the plugs operate normally even if the indicator indicates empty. They will continue to function until it hits its preset level which is apparently 11.9v. I've also found that if the modules lose power entirely and 0 volts they need to be reinitialize by plugging it into a live supply
6:00 You can just translate the PDF file in Google Translate 7:40 Would have been interesting to also measure the voltage on the PCB itself. I guess the voltage drop over the cable can't have been that bad, judging by the voltage at 4.6 A. But would still have been interesting to measure it.
Wow that’s something I’ve always wanted to build with all the leftover 18650 cells I’ve scavenged out of old laptop batteries. Heck yeah that’s a nice build!
You would have to test every single one first and be careful what you mix and match. A bad cell in your pack can bring down performance or start a fire. Unbalanced cells have issues.
Me: casually looking at my 50ah homemade 18650 battery pack from scavenged laptop batteries ... It runs a mini inverter and is charged by solar. For small electronics when no power. With direct DC outputs too. Only 5v and 12v simple stuff though...
@@Henry-sv3wv you can’t but you can fuse each cell Tesla style or not use any cell below 80% state of health. That makes things much safer. Most problems are from people not properly testing all cells then pushing a 10 year old cell with a resistance of 227 milliohms to 1+ amp during a high load when the cell has 900mah out of an original 2200mah. That cell screams “internal short full of dendrites” and you’d easily catch it by doing the proper testing.
FYI when your spot welding cells it should not make any sparks, especially at the lower current levels required for just nickel strip. you might need to apply more pressure or lower your current. for just pure nickel strips I normally use around 30j.
@@bakatenchu i spot weld using my k welder through 1.5mm nickel strip over .2mm copper sheet and there is no sparks. if you are using a cheap spot welder with thin probes maybe its more common to see sparks idk but i did a 190 cell battery with my k-weld and rarely ever saw sparks. and I know my welds have ideal strength and penetration. you may want to re-evaluate your welding process.
I think the company that makes the PCB has its own premade casing and wiring for it too. The only thing with maxing the thing is that you can't take it on a plane unless you can remove the cells, which you probably should've made doable
Huh. That reminds me of the big, chunky video batteries at the place I used to work. Those split in half solely so you could legally carry them on a plane.
Under 100wh is good to go. His pack is perfectly fine. Don’t get the acrylic cases. Turns my sw2303 into an easy bake oven. Edit oh you’re talking about the 16 or 24 cell powerbank? Wrap the cells in 1200mah fake sleeves. Problem solved.
Also I would like to warn anyone that doesn't know this, that the voltage regulator on the board is rated max 18V (me6210) and I've seen images of it burned crisp in 6p configurations. So, as long as the battery voltage is below that, it should be fine. So 4s configs are the best bet for this board, for now.
Ah shoot, I think this is what happened to mine. I replaced R7 with a 27k and it worked fine for a while. Now it doesn't even prompt another device to recognize it's plugged in. Oddly, it still blinks its LEDs, so they must be getting power somewhere. Suggestions on a replacement component are welcome!
@@haloduncan Pouch cells have too much thermal expansion, it's not a solid case, they eventually delaminate, then swell up and fail. If you have the space, use name brand tubular cell for capacity and longevity. Avoid cheap Chinese pouch cells like they're COVID 👍
The reason they use "fuel gauge" algorithm is that the battery voltage doesn't map to battery remaining capacity. Lithium batteries spend most of their time between 3.5 volts and 4 volts and the voltage isn't indicative of the remaining charge. It is like boiling water in a pot, temperature will plateau at 100C until there isn't water left, at which point the temperature will raise.
The measuring the capacity of the battery (the 4 leds) was interesting for me. 1 idea: Many things (phone and much more) work with 1 lipocell. What if you have only a external battery to use this things? You can use a much bigger battery, your phone cannot fall to the ground, old devices can work for ever, it is easy to change the battery and thiefs get a problem :)
Guess what? About phones having a single cell, I have a fairly old but very capable phone (Redmi Note 4x) for which I made an external battery with four 18650 cells after the phone's original battery went completely bad. And yes, I usually attach it to the phone holder of a game controller which I place on a table. I mostly use it for watching movies or as a WiFi hotspot for my other devices (like right now). It's a really cool idea, one that I've been using for months now.
I'm not sure if it's your left-handedness or simply the angle of the camera, but I love seeing your paper notes/explanations; they are so easy to read!
Hey Scott! I know for some of the PCBs you've created, you shared your blueprints in the description, but have you ever considered selling them already built either with/without components? I know you're busy making content, but I'm interested in buying some of your DIY PCBs you've created and successfully work better than store bought versions. It seems more logical to some viewers vs buying individual parts that sometimes only come in bulk. Thanks.
This is a very useful video. Thank you! 90W is indeed very good. I bought several Romoss Battery Banks and none of them quite live up to the advertising. I paid about $1.05 per watt hour. Would be super nice to add PD, USB micro and another USB-C port. Then your DIY version would be King. I guess you could even incorporate a display if you wanted to get really fancy. But I would be happy with your 90W model just as it is. Bravo !! BTW...my test of the Romoss 65W, 40,000mAh unit gave about 27,000mAh at 500mA, 4.91v discharge rate.
I just bought the same module, and I found your video with the same module! What a coincidence! Never thought you would cover this module. (ps : subbed you since 2015)
Just got myself this particular power bank and it's awesome! Totally worth it! And more then that - it charges to 100% with 100W charges in exactly an hour
Any chance you could measure output ripple? Might also be worth mentioning that while IC supports up to 28 VBAT, the board in question is limited to 17V/4S max due to inadequate LDO.
To make your own powerbank, you need to: - know Ohm's law and how to wire banks in parallel/series to achieve desired output voltage/power - know how to measure output voltages of each battery (unless you want your powerbank to set your house on fire after a few charges) - know how to spotweld - know what gage of wire you need to use - know if the batteries you use have their own BMS or if you need your own - know to just buy a commercial product if you aren't capable of understanding any of the above
I would like to build this but when more cells in parallel. I thought there would be no implications for this but after watching the video, I was surprised to see there was a max AH rating on the battery. Why is this?
I've had no luck with their 120W board. I think it gets way too hot and shuts down any time I try to pull over 60W. The inductor on that board isn't the same as what I have on my SC8812A board and the different SW2303 boards. Same with 2 versions of the SW2303 and I'm using the LG MJ1 so same output capacity but not paralleled like you. EDIT: SC8812A board is now working trouble free. You gave me a hmmmmm moment when I realized I had never charged the cells through the board like you did. Glad I had my 5P pack because it charged at nearly 6 amps!
Exactly what I need to transform my drill battery in a power bank, if I connect 2 boards I would be able to get 2 usb c, but of course never connect both to a charger at the same time. Thanks for the video
According to the efficiency graph at 8:23 I couldn't understand how board kept cool at 90w output. Looks like efficiency is about 90 percent which means around 9w of energy should be dissipated as heat. How can be the temperature of the board is 45 degree celcius?
I love this. As a fellow electronics content creator, i can really appreciate this video. People have no idea how much time and effort goes into the research and development process. Keep up the great work Mr. Scott. I love your videos.
hey scott! i was in market for a dolby atmos surround sound home theater. but looking at prices my jaw dropped. i was thinking of building it myself and i thought it would be a great idea for an episode for DIY or buy.
Dolby atmos is proprietary. You won't get a decoder board for it. You can buy super expensive atmos av preprocessors but that defeats the purpose of diy.
Atmos is heavily proprietary and actively protected, even in the usual copyright is a guideline places (ie Russian and Chinese suppliers if you know where to look). You won't be able to DIY for any cheaper than commercial offerings. Dolby actively protect defunct tape noise reduction systems that they haven't licensed in thirty years. They don't let any of their IP go. Even if it's no longer a money earner.
@@medes5597 Maybe we can salvage some parts from older units and use other components like many DIY projects everything doesn't have to be a brand-new component. use the Dolby decoder as a black-box no need to understand all the details just the necessary ones to make it run. even there are some open source surround sound standards that could be used or any workaround. it's a good project to be explored. although I don't know anything substantial to make one myself yet.
@@jitendrasharma8685 that might actually be workable. Atmos probably has more documentation than the older systems too. I did try and get dolby noise reduction working on a tape player I made (solely as a personal project) and the lack of public documentation was what made the task impossible. Atmos must have some hobbyists and such who are working on it. Apologies if I came off too negative, I was remembering my own struggles with dolby systems and how much of a dead end it ended up being and I think I came across way more negative than intended. It's a good idea. Definitely worth exploring. At the very least investigating Atmos from a perspective of recreating it is a good idea regardless of outcome.
That's crazy! Not even hot, must be some crazy low rds-on ohms on those mosfets. And that the usb can handle that much with its small connectors is also insane :D What module did you use to simulate the different charging standards? I see it quickly being shown in the video.
I got a 110Wh, 90W powerbank for $70. I've done a DIY pack before, I'm very happy with the purchased one. ☺️ The safety features are primary in my mind.
Great Video, in fact I just built myself a similar DIY Powerbank with LiFePo4 Cells and this exact chip to charge my Laptop while I'm at uni, but The chip is on a custom board with more Outputs and Inputs (2x USB A, 1x USB C, micro USB and Lightning as well as an DC barrel jack) with an included BMS and Balancing on the same PCB. Its on Aliexpress (as all interesting electronics goodies) and has an display that shows the current percentage and if fast charging is active.
I had a laptop powerbank at UNI. 40000mAh/148Wh. It was a literal brick to carry, but it was the only way to have laptop running without searching for a power outlet, which were scarce.
Really nice video. I'm just in the process of making a 100W power bank as well, but with another pcb. It's half of this price (19USD with VAT) and has the balancer included as well and also with a lot of I/O, even a DC input. You might be interested to try this one as well. I'm waiting for my batteries to arrive for the project.
Couple years ago I built a charger that utilized power tool batteries. Upgraded it recently and it can discharge at 250 watts with power delivery and everything. Ryobi packs are a great deal at 60 bucks for two 74wh packs as well.
@@ericklein5097 No, three separate charge controllers, two of which are delivering 100 watts each and third is 50 watt with a legacy usb port and usbc port.
I just love your videos and always learn something new when I see them! I right now don't know much about electronic engineering but I would love to learn by seeing your videos... I have no idea how to use ic and use components and make a circuit... It will be really helpful if you can elaborate each point that you say in simpler terms...
I've got a customer's power bank which has an issue with working from the battery. I can't find the fault in it ;). So, I'm planning to reuse the case, charger, sockets & plugs, 18650's with mounts for them, even the LED. The driver I see here, for me make sense, so, the cost won't be 80 Euro. I've replaced dead 18650's and now all are holding power. This was an inverter as well, but this part works when is in a charge more, so, will work with this design later on. Thank you for this video, gave me ideas how to not create an e-waste, but repurpose as much as I can from an old one :).
Waiting for Sunday to arrive so I can see another interesting video on your channel. Greetings from Spain and thank you very much for sharing your experiences. 🙂
Currently DIYing a 148 Wh power bank, won't have PD, but can be retrofitted later if needed. Will have laptop charging with 10 various connectors, 2 USB A ports with quickcharge and charging speed of the powerbank at 35W, while theoretically being able to output 160W. All for around 60€, since I grabbed some 21700 cells on sale from LG after they had an automotive project cancelled and sold out the cells from it, 5 Ah cell for 3.75€ each
I'm wondering if the IP2368 has pins, from which I can get the battery voltage directly, and still have all the features like capacity management, low voltage shut down etc... Which I don't have when I directly solder something onto the battery directly, if I understand correctly..
I recently soldered a mobile Powerbank charging module to a 35mah battery. When I charge it, the led of the charging module lights up , but even after charging it for 30 minutes it doesn't charge my phone . Does anyone know how to solve this issue?
I've been going back and forth for a few days now, I think this is the closest "thing" I'm looking for. I have a usb solar panel that broke the usb, I want to make a usb c now to charge things, but I would like it to be safe and not kill batteries. My panel is only 6v-ish so I think I could get by with a more simple usbc interface, and maybe hopefully smaller dimensions. Sorry for the rant
I managed to start a 2.0l VW Diesel engine with 8 A123 LiFePo cells, 2,5Ah each, weight of the cells about 600g. I assume the current drawn to be around 300-400 Ampere. I did not weld the contacts, but pressed Cu cabels onto the poles.
Great, informative video! Love the no nonsense engineering speak and brought to light some of the terms that are also used with the IP5389 board that contains the battery balancing and over charging, battery protection all on one board, along with a thermistor. The problem is that I cannot get to push more than 3A (60W) even though it is rated for 100W. However, I am currently using a Dewalt battery clone as my LiION source which I have used with a UPS board from MiniBox with GREAT success, but the board is expensive and frankly not very efficient requiring fan cooling. It is also 3X as large as this the IP5389. Both have columb cirucuits, but was hoping to have at least an I2C bus to gain access to the bus to add a USB port to bring the data over to Windows, sadly this is not the case and biggest advantage with the ‘Open UPS’ board. Maybe using your technique and forehead slapping moment & “why didn’t I think of that” was taking an image of the PDF on the screen to translate the data-sheet, geesh forehead is sore now. But at least I can make more progress. Thanks!!!
ein tipp wenn es dir nicht um den formfaktor gehen soll es gibt 21700er Zellen die bei ähnlichem preis eine höhere Kapazität und eine höhere Stromstärken-Verträglichkeit haben. Die kann ich sehr empfehlen Da die Spannungen die gleichen sind kannst du auch weiterhin die gleichen bms verwenden 😉
I think the buy one is a better investment in the long run. Once the batteries are no longer holding and discharging properly you can thin reuse that board and add more batteries
10:28 Do not charge your nintendo switch that way!!! They are not following the USB C protocol and thus many have killed their switch by not using nintendos official charger
If you source your cells from salvage or in bulk, you can save a good chunk of money. New Samsung 3.2Ah cells sell $2/pc on battery hookup. You must get 30 though.
building a couple of these out of old gen2 ipads. can get them with broken screen/motherboars for around 8$, and they have a 6500-6900mah battery inside (three pouch cells, each about 2200 mah). since they are prebalanced, you just have to rip out the old screen and logic board, and wire them in series. stick the bms and PD board in and align it with the old holes in the aluminium housing. for a cover, just do 1-2 sheets of fiberglass/arimid weave in a vacume bag with some cheap epoxy between two baking sheets, and then trim it down to shape with a dremel to fit on top. Boom, ultra thin 24wh usbc bank that fits in any laptop case without adding any thickness. whats even cooler is you can do this with gen3 ipads and get hdmi breakout boards for their screens, and then turn a 20$ old dumpster gen3 ipad into a usbc powerbank with built in retnia display screen extension, all in a super slim package. tbh since im only using 3s configuration, i might just omit the BMS since it almost doubles the cost. this is the ultimate usbc gigachad diy project lol, and it saves the environment. ill test each pouch and see if their internal resistances are far off... but i doubt it will be an issue. aliminum housing is a good heatsink but i might put SSD copper heatsink in there if there is enough space, or just epoxy some old copper coins lol
The reason it is not able to provide the full 20V 5A is because it does not like low voltage for some reason. If you use a 6S battery, it does provide the full 5A. It also provides the 5A output with a 5S but only above 70% or so, which is when 5S hits 20+ volts.
@Eric Klein sw3518s, sc8815, sc8812 these ICs have been good in my case. There is one on Aliexpress, able to provide 120W 20V at 6A. That one is good. You could try that. It is based on Sc8812 and a protocol chip whose name I do not remember, I think it was something from Chipsea. It could provide the full power, no hiccups.
@@dogukancil5128 yes SC8812A has been good for me too. I havent tried SW3518S but I have tried SW3518 and its a solid trooper that I accidentally pushed way past 60W once. Where did you get SC8815 from? I thought my SC8812A board didn't work but turns out I just needed to charge the cells through the board...which is weird because it worked for a while then almost acted like I had drained the cells even though I hook up all different kinds of power (packs and power supplies). Once I "charged" the cells (or the constantly changing ways to power the board) I was able to rip 120W out of that thing like no ones business. The new SW2302 based boards are trash. Before those were everywhere I bought an SW2303/PL5501 from Feb 22 store and the acrylic case I got with it was like an oven. Never had much luck with that thing unless I had multiple fans blowing on it then I could get it to run at 40-60W for a while
Thank you so much for the compliment. I know my camera work is potato. I really need a new phone but lately I've been living somewhere where cell service in my house is TERRIBLE and with a case on my phone I barely get 1 bar. I have to leave the case off to get 2 bars which means it falls and gets damaged quite a bit thanks to Apple deciding to make the slickest phones in the galaxy. If you want me to review a board feel free to recommend one. No guarantee that I will get it but any 100W+ USB PD board under $25 I come across gets put in my shopping cart and I buy them when my other projects aren't taking up my whole budget. Last night I bought 96 A123 ANR26650 cells that are 2500mah but have a continuous discharge rate of 50A. Its a 36V 12S8P LiFeP04 pack that can easily be chopped into 3 pieces to make a 12V 60Ah (54Ah+ guaranteed by seller) battery for......$100. Only need a new BMS because the one it comes with is for 12S obviously. Thats cheaper than any 12V 50Ah LiFeP04 battery available today and it has a theoretical output of 400A continuous. www.ebay.com/itm/285093247320?hash=item4260e1b958:g:6SsAAOSwlQtjkmEs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCrHnFtEcXjpZI3%2F9U0lFxpBz8D759dKQj%2Fd38vVneP7QgQDuhauF%2FdfLJfJGTmyktiTeI5X4kAbtErVK0Q7hIL557Ee%2BC93U47RQB7ketOyIXY%2FkX3rAZ6epHRIuS0nzY7%2Fa4Z0WsdKfbnxeITfeM%2FTA5JQ2YeKXqBtHR1wcm4W1Wpi68gUXbeCP1sLNu90Qj9eg3MmILt3xrAWthOks%2FU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76uy9StYQ You can make an offer and I was able to figure the seller has an auto deny/accept amount set to $90 so the total for me was $97 since it has free shipping. Battery Clearinghouse has these cells for the same price (and slightly cheaper for M1A) at the same price but shipping for me was something like $65! Here's the BCH listing of M1A's www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/a123-26650-lfp-38-4v-96-cell-rack-style-lifep04-pack?variant=39671480320078
@@ericklein5097 your video work has been very good. Close ups are detailed enough that I can see the components. Your format is terrific. I look.forward to every video you put out. You explain electronics in a very concise manner. I learn something new every time you put a video out. Thanks for the tips on batteries. Always need batteries.
> 555 Wh maximum capacity Lol, imagine running around with that in your cargo pocket. "Is that half a kWh in your pants or are you just happy to see me?"
@@alyo3299 but be observant when buying bigger electronics. Was so used to AliExpress being the only option and cheaper that accidentally bought a few things at higher price from there than they were locally. But yes, shipping improved. No longer two months, now it's two weeks
@@ligametis Yeah I have noticed that. Like for example I just bougth my new Uni-T multimeter from a poland distrubuter and it was cheaper then the alixpress listing minus the shipping.
Hi GreatScott, I love your videos. I always learn a lot from your videos. I have a request for a video. There are cables where one end connect to the power-bank, and the other end to the Power connector of a router, and this becomes very handy in a country like Sri Lanka, where we experience at least 4 hours of ad-hoc power outages each day. Can you teach us about how to design a circuit, which will power the router using 230V outlet when the power is available as normal, and will automatically switch to the power bank in the event of a power failure. As an additional feature, it is nice to charge the power bank when the power resumes. Thank you.
Presumable, if you ran the output through an inverter it could be used to protect against dirty power and to keep a computer running long enough to save files and shut it down.
Awesome. If you use 20A for those cells, you could make an electric generator which can be charged at home or by solar panels and use it if you need to camp or in the garage to power a drill or a grinder. And what you have done would solve the problem when watching Netflix on the airplane for like 3hrs using an external monitor. Or a Samsung Tab S8 tablet.
do i understand it correctly that the fuel gauge thing is only relevant for the LED indicators? all the over voltage and under voltage stuff is happening independently of that right? That would mean i can buy two of these boards and connect them to the same battery pack so i could charge and discharge at the same time or have two port that can provide power at the same time.
@@xeon8722 yes, I bought the boards and build my own Powerbank with it, the LEDs are just to show you how full the Powerbank is and require you to use a battery configuration that's supported and properly configure some resistors. If you don't care about the LEDs all that basically doesn't matter. I build a Powerbank with it that's above the supported capacity and I have 3 boards in there that don't know of each other so I can recharge with one board and discharge with the two others and the one board will display it is full because it doesnt know that I discharged with one of the others. Over and under voltage protection are still working fine though.
The price efficiency curve get better along with capacity added. With 200Wh or more battery pack, it would be the true winner worth all effort crafting it.
That store offers a 300wh kit you add batteries to. Based on IP5389 tho. Room to add two more boards so you can get the shell with three boards for $100 for 120W, 120W, 100W outputs. Just add cells and assemble the acrylic walls
I appreciate that you still maintain the same format as from the beginning of the channel, Videos solely aimed at educating the viewers by sharing your experience and no unnecessary fluff added with channel growth.
You going through the datasheet really brightened up things for me about these boards. Those definitely will be better for projects with higher cell count 4+ and safer than usual charging power adapters. Might add one of those to my speaker to finally have a reliable way of charging the 5s battery inside it.
Go for it ;-)
@@greatscottlab I have a translated version
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xD557-1UVNz3oRqBK0LdAOf3IOp21Wg8?usp=sharing
I would be careful at least above 4+ cells. Because the seller made an hint and there is a comment, which say that a "Triode" is just rated for 16.8V. That isn't even reserve for 4S and probably will blow up at 4+ (which happend to the commentator)
Oh yeah! Can use that board to charge up the 4s2p Battery in my Torch now. Just unfortunate the board does not have separate output pads. Cant use the 4 LEDs
@@somethinks5624 oh yeah, you're right I was scrolling through AliExpress and found a review also mentioning that, I guess I'll wait a bit until there will be a fix or the manufacturer releases a fix ( which probably is unlikely)
don't forget that over 100wh not allowed on planes
For someone wanting to read the actual guidelines, look for "IATA dangerous goods regulations, table 2.3".
Here it says: "Batteries, spare/loose, [...] power banks are considered as spare batteries [...] Lithium ion batteries: the Watt-hour rating must not exceed 100 Wh".
You are allowed to carry up to 20 seperate batteries though, so just building multiple Powerbanks with 100Wh each would allowed on a plane.
no one said he will use it in a plane
But why?
Pretty sure he's more of a helicopter guy anyway!
You can lie and say it’s lower
Not too long ago I've made my own modular powerbank using laptop batteries. With swappable batteries, and a buck boost converter it provides great results to a USB 3.1. I think I'll revisit it to give me USB C and some power monitoring.
Great Video (:
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
pm me can you to install do solar panel of charger"
I was searching for this kind of board for ages, thank you for the build
Hope you enjoy it!
same!
The issue is if you want to travel with a power bank, airlines limit power banks to 100wh. That’s why you tend to see most of the sold power banks below 100 wh
And probably any DIY devices without oficially declared specs will get stuff attention anyway.
pm me can you to install do solar panel of charger"
have looked at this exact pcb before as well as the manufacturer. Their stuff seems quality. The product which caught my eye the most was the DIY powerbank from them themselves, where you just add your own batteries. There are different models with different amount of battery holders for example 8, 16 and 24 cells. It uses the same chip IP5389 and in my opinion is the best case scenario because you get both high capacity and easy of use.
Do you have a link to what you have found? I'd like to look more into this.
Plus, I think this board Scott tested seems to have lead connections to monitor the cells itself.
WOW! Thanks for the tip, Jovaras. That store was amazing. I ordered the IP5389 w/ batteries module on the spot. But I doubt it will come with eight batteries (38Wh), probably just four (19Wh) but still a great deal.
@@bfelten1 I think they have 2 versions, one without batteries and one with. I am almost certain that if you buy the version with the batteries it will come with all 8 with the rate capacity of 20800mAh, around 74 Wh. If you bought the 8 battery cell version
Would you mind posting a link? Aliexpress search can be terrible at times :)
Also useful in that shipping batteries internationally can be a real pain, so you can source your batteries locally, but ship the other parts from overseas without issue!
Thank you for making this video
I built an 18650 4s5p power bank.
These modules are excellent and I have 3 installed on battery. Perfect operation at 4s but I've noticed that if you want to hit the 100 watt max you must configure at 6s. Otherwise it will provide 3 amps in all voltages.
I installed a 4s flying capacitor balancer.
The board having a built in bms is super handy.
Thank you.
Hey, sorry to bother you, do you mean that you connected more than one board to the powerbank to get multiple outputs?
If that is the case how does the remaining capacity measurement work?
Do all of them still show the correct value?
Thanks in advance!
It operates as normal the indicator bars are not accurate. I just go off pack voltage. It operates between 11.9v and 16.7v. all of the plugs operate normally even if the indicator indicates empty. They will continue to function until it hits its preset level which is apparently 11.9v.
I've also found that if the modules lose power entirely and 0 volts they need to be reinitialize by plugging it into a live supply
@@nicholashamblin3 thank you for the reply!
6:00 You can just translate the PDF file in Google Translate
7:40 Would have been interesting to also measure the voltage on the PCB itself. I guess the voltage drop over the cable can't have been that bad, judging by the voltage at 4.6 A. But would still have been interesting to measure it.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
i have a translated version
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xD557-1UVNz3oRqBK0LdAOf3IOp21Wg8?usp=sharing
pm me can you to install do solar panel of charger"
Voltage drop would be insignificant over that very short length, please see VD = R x I x L / 1000
@@phillipcoplen8051 you my good sir are a saint
Wow that’s something I’ve always wanted to build with all the leftover 18650 cells I’ve scavenged out of old laptop batteries. Heck yeah that’s a nice build!
Glad you liked it :-) And happy building :-)
You would have to test every single one first and be careful what you mix and match. A bad cell in your pack can bring down performance or start a fire. Unbalanced cells have issues.
Me: casually looking at my 50ah homemade 18650 battery pack from scavenged laptop batteries ... It runs a mini inverter and is charged by solar. For small electronics when no power. With direct DC outputs too. Only 5v and 12v simple stuff though...
@@XxTWMLxX
how can you be sure it won't burn down your house
@@Henry-sv3wv you can’t but you can fuse each cell Tesla style or not use any cell below 80% state of health. That makes things much safer. Most problems are from people not properly testing all cells then pushing a 10 year old cell with a resistance of 227 milliohms to 1+ amp during a high load when the cell has 900mah out of an original 2200mah.
That cell screams “internal short full of dendrites” and you’d easily catch it by doing the proper testing.
FYI when your spot welding cells it should not make any sparks, especially at the lower current levels required for just nickel strip. you might need to apply more pressure or lower your current. for just pure nickel strips I normally use around 30j.
At least he's using a spotwelder. So many videos try to do it with soldering which has it's own issues.
Probably nickel plated steel strips
nickel plated steel sparks a lot. for this underdog powerbank steel is ok.
what are you smoking about? sparks are normal in spot welding. did you spot weld with less than 0.1mm? duhh
@@bakatenchu i spot weld using my k welder through 1.5mm nickel strip over .2mm copper sheet and there is no sparks. if you are using a cheap spot welder with thin probes maybe its more common to see sparks idk but i did a 190 cell battery with my k-weld and rarely ever saw sparks. and I know my welds have ideal strength and penetration. you may want to re-evaluate your welding process.
I think the company that makes the PCB has its own premade casing and wiring for it too. The only thing with maxing the thing is that you can't take it on a plane unless you can remove the cells, which you probably should've made doable
Its not doable, you don't want an argument with TSA lol
Huh. That reminds me of the big, chunky video batteries at the place I used to work. Those split in half solely so you could legally carry them on a plane.
Under 100wh is good to go. His pack is perfectly fine.
Don’t get the acrylic cases. Turns my sw2303 into an easy bake oven.
Edit oh you’re talking about the 16 or 24 cell powerbank? Wrap the cells in 1200mah fake sleeves. Problem solved.
Also I would like to warn anyone that doesn't know this, that the voltage regulator on the board is rated max 18V (me6210) and I've seen images of it burned crisp in 6p configurations. So, as long as the battery voltage is below that, it should be fine. So 4s configs are the best bet for this board, for now.
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
@@behnamp9174 Do you mean a 4Cell series and 4Cell parallel (16Cells overall) configuration? It should work! But as you said, a proper BMS is needed.
@@AmonadaLP yes yes yes exactly! sorry i saw your comment late. 4 Cells series and 4 Cells parallel which gives 16Cells overall
Ah shoot, I think this is what happened to mine. I replaced R7 with a 27k and it worked fine for a while. Now it doesn't even prompt another device to recognize it's plugged in. Oddly, it still blinks its LEDs, so they must be getting power somewhere.
Suggestions on a replacement component are welcome!
Does anyone have a reference that shows what the LED blinks mean?
Longevity was not taken into account.
18650 cells have more than double the lifespan of the pouch cells used in most commercial power banks.
Is it the same with 21700 cells? Those are the cells my powerbank (Anker 737 PowerCore 24K) uses
@@TheStopwatchGod Pouch cells are trash, all other battery forms eg; tube, box & plate are superior.
Yea DIY definitely won this one
Can you tell me why? i was planning to use the pouch cells for this proyect.
@@haloduncan Pouch cells have too much thermal expansion, it's not a solid case, they eventually delaminate, then swell up and fail.
If you have the space, use name brand tubular cell for capacity and longevity. Avoid cheap Chinese pouch cells like they're COVID 👍
DIY is better than Buying!
Not every time
Well,....it depends. Buy is usually a bit cheaper but not as customizable as DIY. Both have their place.
@@greatscottlab He said 'better than' not 'cheaper than'....and I agree, DIYing is much more fun..hence better😉
@@apurvsharma1261 Yes! I agree!
@@greatscottlab DIY is cheaper, more fun and improves our knowledge!
The reason they use "fuel gauge" algorithm is that the battery voltage doesn't map to battery remaining capacity.
Lithium batteries spend most of their time between 3.5 volts and 4 volts and the voltage isn't indicative of the remaining charge.
It is like boiling water in a pot, temperature will plateau at 100C until there isn't water left, at which point the temperature will raise.
Bingo. Fuel gauges are useless for lithium ion and flat out misleading for LiFePO4
The measuring the capacity of the battery (the 4 leds) was interesting for me.
1 idea: Many things (phone and much more) work with 1 lipocell. What if you have only a external battery to use this things? You can use a much bigger battery, your phone cannot fall to the ground, old devices can work for ever, it is easy to change the battery and thiefs get a problem :)
Nice
Guess what? About phones having a single cell, I have a fairly old but very capable phone (Redmi Note 4x) for which I made an external battery with four 18650 cells after the phone's original battery went completely bad. And yes, I usually attach it to the phone holder of a game controller which I place on a table. I mostly use it for watching movies or as a WiFi hotspot for my other devices (like right now).
It's a really cool idea, one that I've been using for months now.
I have a few old ipods and iphones with completely dead batteries. They work perfectly fine using a powerbank.
I'm not sure if it's your left-handedness or simply the angle of the camera, but I love seeing your paper notes/explanations; they are so easy to read!
It may also have to do with the European numerals as well :) But mostly the camera angle and depth of field on the subject (what he's writing)
Hey Scott! I know for some of the PCBs you've created, you shared your blueprints in the description, but have you ever considered selling them already built either with/without components? I know you're busy making content, but I'm interested in buying some of your DIY PCBs you've created and successfully work better than store bought versions. It seems more logical to some viewers vs buying individual parts that sometimes only come in bulk. Thanks.
This is the post that convinced me to support on Patreon . Well deserved. Thank you for your dedication and contribution to learning
This is a very useful video. Thank you! 90W is indeed very good. I bought several Romoss Battery Banks and none of them quite live up to the advertising. I paid about $1.05 per watt hour. Would be super nice to add PD, USB micro and another USB-C port. Then your DIY version would be King. I guess you could even incorporate a display if you wanted to get really fancy. But I would be happy with your 90W model just as it is. Bravo !! BTW...my test of the Romoss 65W, 40,000mAh unit gave about 27,000mAh at 500mA, 4.91v discharge rate.
I just bought the same module, and I found your video with the same module!
What a coincidence!
Never thought you would cover this module. (ps : subbed you since 2015)
It amazes me that so much power can go through such small USB
It can partly power my PS5, or even my desktop PC or my whole house
@@tomer4566 It can *partly* power New York, that's the thing about the word "partly"
Just got myself this particular power bank and it's awesome! Totally worth it! And more then that - it charges to 100% with 100W charges in exactly an hour
Where did you buy??
Any chance you could measure output ripple? Might also be worth mentioning that while IC supports up to 28 VBAT, the board in question is limited to 17V/4S max due to inadequate LDO.
That's a shame, as this seems like it'd match well with an 18V power tool battery.
To make your own powerbank, you need to:
- know Ohm's law and how to wire banks in parallel/series to achieve desired output voltage/power
- know how to measure output voltages of each battery (unless you want your powerbank to set your house on fire after a few charges)
- know how to spotweld
- know what gage of wire you need to use
- know if the batteries you use have their own BMS or if you need your own
- know to just buy a commercial product if you aren't capable of understanding any of the above
Thank you for this heads up
I would like to build this but when more cells in parallel. I thought there would be no implications for this but after watching the video, I was surprised to see there was a max AH rating on the battery. Why is this?
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
@@behnamp9174 so far so good. according to spec sheets it’s actually the default 4s4p configuration.
Just this morning I searched for making one of these to extend my laptop battery, thank you!
Glad I could help!
I've had no luck with their 120W board. I think it gets way too hot and shuts down any time I try to pull over 60W. The inductor on that board isn't the same as what I have on my SC8812A board and the different SW2303 boards.
Same with 2 versions of the SW2303 and I'm using the LG MJ1 so same output capacity but not paralleled like you.
EDIT: SC8812A board is now working trouble free. You gave me a hmmmmm moment when I realized I had never charged the cells through the board like you did. Glad I had my 5P pack because it charged at nearly 6 amps!
Exactly what I need to transform my drill battery in a power bank, if I connect 2 boards I would be able to get 2 usb c, but of course never connect both to a charger at the same time. Thanks for the video
It's definitely tempting to build one with a large capacity, but then it would be even more frustrating to only have one output I guess
They have PCB's that can be superimposed on each other. The problem with this one might be the battery management.
According to the efficiency graph at 8:23 I couldn't understand how board kept cool at 90w output. Looks like efficiency is about 90 percent which means around 9w of energy should be dissipated as heat. How can be the temperature of the board is 45 degree celcius?
I love this.
As a fellow electronics content creator, i can really appreciate this video. People have no idea how much time and effort goes into the research and development process.
Keep up the great work Mr. Scott. I love your videos.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’ve wanted to build a 300+Wh battery that can input/output with the latest 240W usb pd. Now I know it would be easier than I previous thought.
This board only does 100w (or 90). I haven't yet seen an ic for 240w
What spotwelder did you use for the battery tabs? I'm looking for something that's not to expensive for some future projects.
I am using the kWelder.
Your voice is so clear and easy to listen too. 👍
hey scott! i was in market for a dolby atmos surround sound home theater. but looking at prices my jaw dropped. i was thinking of building it myself and i thought it would be a great idea for an episode for DIY or buy.
Dolby atmos is proprietary. You won't get a decoder board for it. You can buy super expensive atmos av preprocessors but that defeats the purpose of diy.
Atmos is heavily proprietary and actively protected, even in the usual copyright is a guideline places (ie Russian and Chinese suppliers if you know where to look). You won't be able to DIY for any cheaper than commercial offerings.
Dolby actively protect defunct tape noise reduction systems that they haven't licensed in thirty years. They don't let any of their IP go. Even if it's no longer a money earner.
@@medes5597 Maybe we can salvage some parts from older units and use other components like many DIY projects everything doesn't have to be a brand-new component. use the Dolby decoder as a black-box no need to understand all the details just the necessary ones to make it run. even there are some open source surround sound standards that could be used or any workaround. it's a good project to be explored. although I don't know anything substantial to make one myself yet.
@@jitendrasharma8685 that might actually be workable. Atmos probably has more documentation than the older systems too.
I did try and get dolby noise reduction working on a tape player I made (solely as a personal project) and the lack of public documentation was what made the task impossible. Atmos must have some hobbyists and such who are working on it.
Apologies if I came off too negative, I was remembering my own struggles with dolby systems and how much of a dead end it ended up being and I think I came across way more negative than intended. It's a good idea. Definitely worth exploring. At the very least investigating Atmos from a perspective of recreating it is a good idea regardless of outcome.
waiting for this, very interesting video, I hope more power related videos will come ... more power to GREAT 👍👍👍👍 SCOTT !
More to come! ;-)
Is there any link to the BMS?
When I saw the title and thumbnail I just KNEW you were going to say something about the awesomeness of usb-c.
Usb-c is pretty cool I agree.
It is super cool :-) Will be very big in the future
That's crazy! Not even hot, must be some crazy low rds-on ohms on those mosfets.
And that the usb can handle that much with its small connectors is also insane :D
What module did you use to simulate the different charging standards? I see it quickly being shown in the video.
It is USB-C PD Trigger board. Just search for it on Google or similar ;-)
I got a 110Wh, 90W powerbank for $70. I've done a DIY pack before, I'm very happy with the purchased one. ☺️ The safety features are primary in my mind.
don't tell my girlfriend 44 minutes ain't long
I am currently also a designing a power bank with 8 cells in onshape so this video is a big help for me :)
This is very timely, I was just thinking of doing this project this week!
Wheres the links for the two pcbs in the build? You have only shown the small one not the two big ones. Thanks
I Really like your videos, thank you for all your efforts. i admire you working method, patience, and organization
Great Video, in fact I just built myself a similar DIY Powerbank with LiFePo4 Cells and this exact chip to charge my Laptop while I'm at uni, but The chip is on a custom board with more Outputs and Inputs (2x USB A, 1x USB C, micro USB and Lightning as well as an DC barrel jack) with an included BMS and Balancing on the same PCB. Its on Aliexpress (as all interesting electronics goodies) and has an display that shows the current percentage and if fast charging is active.
Sounds like a good project :-)
Can you give a part number for that chip?
@@stevebabiak6997 It's a ip2368, cf 1:39 😉
I had a laptop powerbank at UNI. 40000mAh/148Wh. It was a literal brick to carry, but it was the only way to have laptop running without searching for a power outlet, which were scarce.
May i know what's the spot welding board did u use and any description on that
It is called kWeld.
@@greatscottlab Also a quick question..is it diy able and if yes can I get the schematics
such a brilliant build great scott.
Thank you :-)
@@greatscottlab you’re welcome
Really nice video. I'm just in the process of making a 100W power bank as well, but with another pcb. It's half of this price (19USD with VAT) and has the balancer included as well and also with a lot of I/O, even a DC input. You might be interested to try this one as well. I'm waiting for my batteries to arrive for the project.
Which pcb?
Item ID to the other 100W PCB: ali 1005004642775972 (i can't insert the proper url so just replace any ali item url with the ID of this one)
@@cinkoxid awesome, Thanks!
@@ChristopherHerrmann you're welcome. It took me many hours before i found it. The search engine is awful on ali.
@@cinkoxid You might not like what I discovered. I think this is the same PCB you are talking about
th-cam.com/video/U8wEtr7ydFg/w-d-xo.html
Excellent build, shame there's not a bigger difference in cost savings. But the bigger battery size is a plus.
Definitely ;-)
Couple years ago I built a charger that utilized power tool batteries. Upgraded it recently and it can discharge at 250 watts with power delivery and everything. Ryobi packs are a great deal at 60 bucks for two 74wh packs as well.
PD output is 250W?
@@ericklein5097 No, three separate charge controllers, two of which are delivering 100 watts each and third is 50 watt with a legacy usb port and usbc port.
I just love your videos and always learn something new when I see them! I right now don't know much about electronic engineering but I would love to learn by seeing your videos... I have no idea how to use ic and use components and make a circuit... It will be really helpful if you can elaborate each point that you say in simpler terms...
I've got a customer's power bank which has an issue with working from the battery. I can't find the fault in it ;). So, I'm planning to reuse the case, charger, sockets & plugs, 18650's with mounts for them, even the LED. The driver I see here, for me make sense, so, the cost won't be 80 Euro. I've replaced dead 18650's and now all are holding power. This was an inverter as well, but this part works when is in a charge more, so, will work with this design later on.
Thank you for this video, gave me ideas how to not create an e-waste, but repurpose as much as I can from an old one :).
One of my favorite video. Because i actually ended up making tbis myself.
Waiting for Sunday to arrive so I can see another interesting video on your channel. Greetings from Spain and thank you very much for sharing your experiences. 🙂
Thank you very much!
Currently DIYing a 148 Wh power bank, won't have PD, but can be retrofitted later if needed. Will have laptop charging with 10 various connectors, 2 USB A ports with quickcharge and charging speed of the powerbank at 35W, while theoretically being able to output 160W. All for around 60€, since I grabbed some 21700 cells on sale from LG after they had an automotive project cancelled and sold out the cells from it, 5 Ah cell for 3.75€ each
Great video, i testet about 5000pcs of 18650 until now, and i prepare it for my biggest project for my smart home 😍😍😍
Sounds exciting :-)
I'm wondering if the IP2368 has pins, from which I can get the battery voltage directly, and still have all the features like capacity management, low voltage shut down etc... Which I don't have when I directly solder something onto the battery directly, if I understand correctly..
I recently soldered a mobile Powerbank charging module to a 35mah battery.
When I charge it, the led of the charging module lights up , but even after charging it for 30 minutes it doesn't charge my phone .
Does anyone know how to solve this issue?
I've been going back and forth for a few days now, I think this is the closest "thing" I'm looking for. I have a usb solar panel that broke the usb, I want to make a usb c now to charge things, but I would like it to be safe and not kill batteries. My panel is only 6v-ish so I think I could get by with a more simple usbc interface, and maybe hopefully smaller dimensions. Sorry for the rant
Adding battery holder will not add a lot of volume, but adds an option to replace some dead cells in future.
Cell holders are a no no because the contacts don't do well above 5A. Jehu Garcia had a lot of trouble with this and his PCB boards
I managed to start a 2.0l VW Diesel engine with 8 A123 LiFePo cells, 2,5Ah each, weight of the cells about 600g. I assume the current drawn to be around 300-400 Ampere. I did not weld the contacts, but pressed Cu cabels onto the poles.
Well thats kinda cheating....those A123 ANR26650M1B's put out some serious amperage. To this day nothing really comes close
great! I was looking for one with PD for the last few weeks for my new laptop, great timing!
Do you have the CAD model for the DIY enclosure you could share? I don't think I see it in the description.
Great, informative video! Love the no nonsense engineering speak and brought to light some of the terms that are also used with the IP5389 board that contains the battery balancing and over charging, battery protection all on one board, along with a thermistor. The problem is that I cannot get to push more than 3A (60W) even though it is rated for 100W. However, I am currently using a Dewalt battery clone as my LiION source which I have used with a UPS board from MiniBox with GREAT success, but the board is expensive and frankly not very efficient requiring fan cooling. It is also 3X as large as this the IP5389. Both have columb cirucuits, but was hoping to have at least an I2C bus to gain access to the bus to add a USB port to bring the data over to Windows, sadly this is not the case and biggest advantage with the ‘Open UPS’ board. Maybe using your technique and forehead slapping moment & “why didn’t I think of that” was taking an image of the PDF on the screen to translate the data-sheet, geesh forehead is sore now. But at least I can make more progress. Thanks!!!
ein tipp wenn es dir nicht um den formfaktor gehen soll es gibt 21700er Zellen die bei ähnlichem preis eine höhere Kapazität und eine höhere Stromstärken-Verträglichkeit haben.
Die kann ich sehr empfehlen
Da die Spannungen die gleichen sind kannst du auch weiterhin die gleichen bms verwenden 😉
Während man bei 18650 höchstens 3500mah pro Zelle bekommt kann man bei 21700 bis 5000mah bekommen und preislich gibt sich das auch nicht viel
I think the buy one is a better investment in the long run. Once the batteries are no longer holding and discharging properly you can thin reuse that board and add more batteries
You can with the DIY one though
10:28 Do not charge your nintendo switch that way!!! They are not following the USB C protocol and thus many have killed their switch by not using nintendos official charger
You can use an USB Hub to extend the usb ports. And if you want to put type c ports, just use a converter to convert the usb type a to type c.
Type A doesn't support 20V
?
If you source your cells from salvage or in bulk, you can save a good chunk of money. New Samsung 3.2Ah cells sell $2/pc on battery hookup. You must get 30 though.
building a couple of these out of old gen2 ipads. can get them with broken screen/motherboars for around 8$, and they have a 6500-6900mah battery inside (three pouch cells, each about 2200 mah). since they are prebalanced, you just have to rip out the old screen and logic board, and wire them in series. stick the bms and PD board in and align it with the old holes in the aluminium housing. for a cover, just do 1-2 sheets of fiberglass/arimid weave in a vacume bag with some cheap epoxy between two baking sheets, and then trim it down to shape with a dremel to fit on top. Boom, ultra thin 24wh usbc bank that fits in any laptop case without adding any thickness.
whats even cooler is you can do this with gen3 ipads and get hdmi breakout boards for their screens, and then turn a 20$ old dumpster gen3 ipad into a usbc powerbank with built in retnia display screen extension, all in a super slim package.
tbh since im only using 3s configuration, i might just omit the BMS since it almost doubles the cost. this is the ultimate usbc gigachad diy project lol, and it saves the environment. ill test each pouch and see if their internal resistances are far off... but i doubt it will be an issue. aliminum housing is a good heatsink but i might put SSD copper heatsink in there if there is enough space, or just epoxy some old copper coins lol
The buy option is from Baseus if you were wondering
The reason it is not able to provide the full 20V 5A is because it does not like low voltage for some reason. If you use a 6S battery, it does provide the full 5A. It also provides the 5A output with a 5S but only above 70% or so, which is when 5S hits 20+ volts.
Using a power supply at 16.6V with 10 Amps available I still find many of these boards fail at 3-4A from heat
@Eric Klein sw3518s, sc8815, sc8812 these ICs have been good in my case. There is one on Aliexpress, able to provide 120W 20V at 6A. That one is good. You could try that. It is based on Sc8812 and a protocol chip whose name I do not remember, I think it was something from Chipsea. It could provide the full power, no hiccups.
@@dogukancil5128 yes SC8812A has been good for me too. I havent tried SW3518S but I have tried SW3518 and its a solid trooper that I accidentally pushed way past 60W once. Where did you get SC8815 from?
I thought my SC8812A board didn't work but turns out I just needed to charge the cells through the board...which is weird because it worked for a while then almost acted like I had drained the cells even though I hook up all different kinds of power (packs and power supplies). Once I "charged" the cells (or the constantly changing ways to power the board) I was able to rip 120W out of that thing like no ones business.
The new SW2302 based boards are trash. Before those were everywhere I bought an SW2303/PL5501 from Feb 22 store and the acrylic case I got with it was like an oven. Never had much luck with that thing unless I had multiple fans blowing on it then I could get it to run at 40-60W for a while
Thanks so much for making this video! I've been wondering about this subject for a few weeks now but could'nt find a 100W pcb anywhere
I've been looking for something like this for a while, fantastic. Thank you!!!
Very good project and excellent video 👍
Does the IP2368 support charge + passthrough simultaneously?
Really love your videos. Keep up the brilliant work
Thank you so much for the compliment. I know my camera work is potato. I really need a new phone but lately I've been living somewhere where cell service in my house is TERRIBLE and with a case on my phone I barely get 1 bar. I have to leave the case off to get 2 bars which means it falls and gets damaged quite a bit thanks to Apple deciding to make the slickest phones in the galaxy.
If you want me to review a board feel free to recommend one. No guarantee that I will get it but any 100W+ USB PD board under $25 I come across gets put in my shopping cart and I buy them when my other projects aren't taking up my whole budget. Last night I bought 96 A123 ANR26650 cells that are 2500mah but have a continuous discharge rate of 50A. Its a 36V 12S8P LiFeP04 pack that can easily be chopped into 3 pieces to make a 12V 60Ah (54Ah+ guaranteed by seller) battery for......$100. Only need a new BMS because the one it comes with is for 12S obviously. Thats cheaper than any 12V 50Ah LiFeP04 battery available today and it has a theoretical output of 400A continuous.
www.ebay.com/itm/285093247320?hash=item4260e1b958:g:6SsAAOSwlQtjkmEs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCrHnFtEcXjpZI3%2F9U0lFxpBz8D759dKQj%2Fd38vVneP7QgQDuhauF%2FdfLJfJGTmyktiTeI5X4kAbtErVK0Q7hIL557Ee%2BC93U47RQB7ketOyIXY%2FkX3rAZ6epHRIuS0nzY7%2Fa4Z0WsdKfbnxeITfeM%2FTA5JQ2YeKXqBtHR1wcm4W1Wpi68gUXbeCP1sLNu90Qj9eg3MmILt3xrAWthOks%2FU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76uy9StYQ
You can make an offer and I was able to figure the seller has an auto deny/accept amount set to $90 so the total for me was $97 since it has free shipping. Battery Clearinghouse has these cells for the same price (and slightly cheaper for M1A) at the same price but shipping for me was something like $65!
Here's the BCH listing of M1A's
www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/a123-26650-lfp-38-4v-96-cell-rack-style-lifep04-pack?variant=39671480320078
@@ericklein5097 your video work has been very good. Close ups are detailed enough that I can see the components. Your format is terrific. I look.forward to every video you put out. You explain electronics in a very concise manner. I learn something new every time you put a video out. Thanks for the tips on batteries. Always need batteries.
This is an awesome DIY battery bank. Might have to go on another aliexpress shopping spree
Go for it!
Been looking forever for a pcb that can take usb c charge and discharge with power delivery. THANK YOU
The perfect power bank doesn't exi... Wow what a masterpiece .
Thank you so much for finding this! I have a ton of lion cells I want to use for this.
> 555 Wh maximum capacity
Lol, imagine running around with that in your cargo pocket. "Is that half a kWh in your pants or are you just happy to see me?"
luckily Aliexpress shipping has improved now at least in EU, so ordering there isnt so bad like it was 2 years ago... Great for hobby stuff.
Very true!
But prices like doubled.
@@ligametis True and the shipping prices have gone up too. But it is still the largest and chepest for hobby electronic...
@@alyo3299 but be observant when buying bigger electronics. Was so used to AliExpress being the only option and cheaper that accidentally bought a few things at higher price from there than they were locally. But yes, shipping improved. No longer two months, now it's two weeks
@@ligametis Yeah I have noticed that. Like for example I just bougth my new Uni-T multimeter from a poland distrubuter and it was cheaper then the alixpress listing minus the shipping.
Excellent job obtaining the required specs from the Chinese datasheet.
So if you add a second one of the usb c pcb you could charge and discharge at the same time. Effectively making a UPS
How fitting, i was looking for something like that for a project.
Danke!
Hi GreatScott, I love your videos. I always learn a lot from your videos.
I have a request for a video. There are cables where one end connect to the power-bank, and the other end to the Power connector of a router, and this becomes very handy in a country like Sri Lanka, where we experience at least 4 hours of ad-hoc power outages each day.
Can you teach us about how to design a circuit, which will power the router using 230V outlet when the power is available as normal, and will automatically switch to the power bank in the event of a power failure.
As an additional feature, it is nice to charge the power bank when the power resumes.
Thank you.
Presumable, if you ran the output through an inverter it could be used to protect against dirty power and to keep a computer running long enough to save files and shut it down.
Been playing with this board myself. I personally love that it also supports LiFePO4, which while stores less energy is a lot safer than Li-Ion
Less energy by weight. As long as you don't need the pack to be mobile that is not so important. Safety is important.
Have you been able to output 100W PD for more than 5 min?
Fantastic work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
I've seen those little boards before! I'm definitely going to get some!
Stay safe and creative there! 🖖😊
Thanks. Go for it :-)
Awesome. If you use 20A for those cells, you could make an electric generator which can be charged at home or by solar panels and use it if you need to camp or in the garage to power a drill or a grinder.
And what you have done would solve the problem when watching Netflix on the airplane for like 3hrs using an external monitor. Or a Samsung Tab S8 tablet.
Do you have a DIY UPS for 12v electronics such as routers? or a recommendation which PCBs to look at?
Nice, thanks for sharing! Great PCB.
I wonder if it would be possible to change the reported max power draw of the board to 90W in order to keep the voltage in the correct range.
Finally! Something I was waiting for.
I have about 200 of those batteries. Put 2 in a little 7.2v screw gun to replace the dead nicads. Works like a charm.
do i understand it correctly that the fuel gauge thing is only relevant for the LED indicators?
all the over voltage and under voltage stuff is happening independently of that right?
That would mean i can buy two of these boards and connect them to the same battery pack so i could charge and discharge at the same time or have two port that can provide power at the same time.
Hello, do you find answer for that?
@@xeon8722 yes, I bought the boards and build my own Powerbank with it, the LEDs are just to show you how full the Powerbank is and require you to use a battery configuration that's supported and properly configure some resistors.
If you don't care about the LEDs all that basically doesn't matter.
I build a Powerbank with it that's above the supported capacity and I have 3 boards in there that don't know of each other so I can recharge with one board and discharge with the two others and the one board will display it is full because it doesnt know that I discharged with one of the others.
Over and under voltage protection are still working fine though.
The price efficiency curve get better along with capacity added. With 200Wh or more battery pack, it would be the true winner worth all effort crafting it.
That store offers a 300wh kit you add batteries to. Based on IP5389 tho. Room to add two more boards so you can get the shell with three boards for $100 for 120W, 120W, 100W outputs. Just add cells and assemble the acrylic walls