My Power Bank Rivals Commercial Ones?! Super Fast! (DIY or Buy)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
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In this episode of DIY or Buy we will be having a closer look at 100W Power Banks. Such Power Banks are great to have around to quickly charge up your big electronics like a laptop or tablet and they are also very useful when powering more current demanding electronics projects. That is why I properly tested a PCB from Aliexpress which allows us to create such a DIY Power Bank easily. And at the end we will see whether you should try such a DIY solution or rather stick to the Buy version. Let's get started!
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0:00 Why a 100W Power Bank?
1:31 PCB for DIY Solution?
2:04 Intro
3:03 Output Features of the PCB
4:08 Input Features of the PCB (Battery Pack)
6:25 Testing the PCB
8:46 Creating the Battery Pack
9:51 Completing the DIY Power Bank and Testing
10:31 Verdict - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I appreciate that you still maintain the same format as from the beginning of the channel, Videos solely aimed at educating the viewers by sharing your experience and no unnecessary fluff added with channel growth.
You going through the datasheet really brightened up things for me about these boards. Those definitely will be better for projects with higher cell count 4+ and safer than usual charging power adapters. Might add one of those to my speaker to finally have a reliable way of charging the 5s battery inside it.
Go for it ;-)
@@greatscottlab I have a translated version
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xD557-1UVNz3oRqBK0LdAOf3IOp21Wg8?usp=sharing
I would be careful at least above 4+ cells. Because the seller made an hint and there is a comment, which say that a "Triode" is just rated for 16.8V. That isn't even reserve for 4S and probably will blow up at 4+ (which happend to the commentator)
Oh yeah! Can use that board to charge up the 4s2p Battery in my Torch now. Just unfortunate the board does not have separate output pads. Cant use the 4 LEDs
@@somethinks5624 oh yeah, you're right I was scrolling through AliExpress and found a review also mentioning that, I guess I'll wait a bit until there will be a fix or the manufacturer releases a fix ( which probably is unlikely)
don't forget that over 100wh not allowed on planes
For someone wanting to read the actual guidelines, look for "IATA dangerous goods regulations, table 2.3".
Here it says: "Batteries, spare/loose, [...] power banks are considered as spare batteries [...] Lithium ion batteries: the Watt-hour rating must not exceed 100 Wh".
You are allowed to carry up to 20 seperate batteries though, so just building multiple Powerbanks with 100Wh each would allowed on a plane.
no one said he will use it in a plane
But why?
Pretty sure he's more of a helicopter guy anyway!
You can lie and say it’s lower
Not too long ago I've made my own modular powerbank using laptop batteries. With swappable batteries, and a buck boost converter it provides great results to a USB 3.1. I think I'll revisit it to give me USB C and some power monitoring.
Great Video (:
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
The issue is if you want to travel with a power bank, airlines limit power banks to 100wh. That’s why you tend to see most of the sold power banks below 100 wh
And probably any DIY devices without oficially declared specs will get stuff attention anyway.
have looked at this exact pcb before as well as the manufacturer. Their stuff seems quality. The product which caught my eye the most was the DIY powerbank from them themselves, where you just add your own batteries. There are different models with different amount of battery holders for example 8, 16 and 24 cells. It uses the same chip IP5389 and in my opinion is the best case scenario because you get both high capacity and easy of use.
Do you have a link to what you have found? I'd like to look more into this.
Plus, I think this board Scott tested seems to have lead connections to monitor the cells itself.
WOW! Thanks for the tip, Jovaras. That store was amazing. I ordered the IP5389 w/ batteries module on the spot. But I doubt it will come with eight batteries (38Wh), probably just four (19Wh) but still a great deal.
@@bfelten1 I think they have 2 versions, one without batteries and one with. I am almost certain that if you buy the version with the batteries it will come with all 8 with the rate capacity of 20800mAh, around 74 Wh. If you bought the 8 battery cell version
Would you mind posting a link? Aliexpress search can be terrible at times :)
Also useful in that shipping batteries internationally can be a real pain, so you can source your batteries locally, but ship the other parts from overseas without issue!
I was searching for this kind of board for ages, thank you for the build
Hope you enjoy it!
same!
Wow that’s something I’ve always wanted to build with all the leftover 18650 cells I’ve scavenged out of old laptop batteries. Heck yeah that’s a nice build!
Glad you liked it :-) And happy building :-)
You would have to test every single one first and be careful what you mix and match. A bad cell in your pack can bring down performance or start a fire. Unbalanced cells have issues.
Me: casually looking at my 50ah homemade 18650 battery pack from scavenged laptop batteries ... It runs a mini inverter and is charged by solar. For small electronics when no power. With direct DC outputs too. Only 5v and 12v simple stuff though...
@@XxTWMLxX
how can you be sure it won't burn down your house
@@Henry-sv3wv you can’t but you can fuse each cell Tesla style or not use any cell below 80% state of health. That makes things much safer. Most problems are from people not properly testing all cells then pushing a 10 year old cell with a resistance of 227 milliohms to 1+ amp during a high load when the cell has 900mah out of an original 2200mah.
That cell screams “internal short full of dendrites” and you’d easily catch it by doing the proper testing.
Longevity was not taken into account.
18650 cells have more than double the lifespan of the pouch cells used in most commercial power banks.
Is it the same with 21700 cells? Those are the cells my powerbank (Anker 737 PowerCore 24K) uses
@@TheStopwatchGod Pouch cells are trash, all other battery forms eg; tube, box & plate are superior.
Yea DIY definitely won this one
Can you tell me why? i was planning to use the pouch cells for this proyect.
@@haloduncan Pouch cells have too much thermal expansion, it's not a solid case, they eventually delaminate, then swell up and fail.
If you have the space, use name brand tubular cell for capacity and longevity. Avoid cheap Chinese pouch cells like they're COVID 👍
6:00 You can just translate the PDF file in Google Translate
7:40 Would have been interesting to also measure the voltage on the PCB itself. I guess the voltage drop over the cable can't have been that bad, judging by the voltage at 4.6 A. But would still have been interesting to measure it.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
i have a translated version
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xD557-1UVNz3oRqBK0LdAOf3IOp21Wg8?usp=sharing
Just got myself this particular power bank and it's awesome! Totally worth it! And more then that - it charges to 100% with 100W charges in exactly an hour
This is a very useful video. Thank you! 90W is indeed very good. I bought several Romoss Battery Banks and none of them quite live up to the advertising. I paid about $1.05 per watt hour. Would be super nice to add PD, USB micro and another USB-C port. Then your DIY version would be King. I guess you could even incorporate a display if you wanted to get really fancy. But I would be happy with your 90W model just as it is. Bravo !! BTW...my test of the Romoss 65W, 40,000mAh unit gave about 27,000mAh at 500mA, 4.91v discharge rate.
FYI when your spot welding cells it should not make any sparks, especially at the lower current levels required for just nickel strip. you might need to apply more pressure or lower your current. for just pure nickel strips I normally use around 30j.
At least he's using a spotwelder. So many videos try to do it with soldering which has it's own issues.
Probably nickel plated steel strips
Thank you for making this video
I built an 18650 4s5p power bank.
These modules are excellent and I have 3 installed on battery. Perfect operation at 4s but I've noticed that if you want to hit the 100 watt max you must configure at 6s. Otherwise it will provide 3 amps in all voltages.
I installed a 4s flying capacitor balancer.
The board having a built in bms is super handy.
Thank you.
Hey, sorry to bother you, do you mean that you connected more than one board to the powerbank to get multiple outputs?
If that is the case how does the remaining capacity measurement work?
Do all of them still show the correct value?
Thanks in advance!
It operates as normal the indicator bars are not accurate. I just go off pack voltage. It operates between 11.9v and 16.7v. all of the plugs operate normally even if the indicator indicates empty. They will continue to function until it hits its preset level which is apparently 11.9v.
I've also found that if the modules lose power entirely and 0 volts they need to be reinitialize by plugging it into a live supply
@@nicholashamblin3600 thank you for the reply!
I got a 110Wh, 90W powerbank for $70. I've done a DIY pack before, I'm very happy with the purchased one. ☺️ The safety features are primary in my mind.
I just love your videos and always learn something new when I see them! I right now don't know much about electronic engineering but I would love to learn by seeing your videos... I have no idea how to use ic and use components and make a circuit... It will be really helpful if you can elaborate each point that you say in simpler terms...
Hey Scott! I know for some of the PCBs you've created, you shared your blueprints in the description, but have you ever considered selling them already built either with/without components? I know you're busy making content, but I'm interested in buying some of your DIY PCBs you've created and successfully work better than store bought versions. It seems more logical to some viewers vs buying individual parts that sometimes only come in bulk. Thanks.
Also I would like to warn anyone that doesn't know this, that the voltage regulator on the board is rated max 18V (me6210) and I've seen images of it burned crisp in 6p configurations. So, as long as the battery voltage is below that, it should be fine. So 4s configs are the best bet for this board, for now.
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
@@behnamp9174 Do you mean a 4Cell series and 4Cell parallel (16Cells overall) configuration? It should work! But as you said, a proper BMS is needed.
@@AmonadaLP yes yes yes exactly! sorry i saw your comment late. 4 Cells series and 4 Cells parallel which gives 16Cells overall
Ah shoot, I think this is what happened to mine. I replaced R7 with a 27k and it worked fine for a while. Now it doesn't even prompt another device to recognize it's plugged in. Oddly, it still blinks its LEDs, so they must be getting power somewhere.
Suggestions on a replacement component are welcome!
Does anyone have a reference that shows what the LED blinks mean?
Exactly what I need to transform my drill battery in a power bank, if I connect 2 boards I would be able to get 2 usb c, but of course never connect both to a charger at the same time. Thanks for the video
I think the company that makes the PCB has its own premade casing and wiring for it too. The only thing with maxing the thing is that you can't take it on a plane unless you can remove the cells, which you probably should've made doable
Its not doable, you don't want an argument with TSA lol
Huh. That reminds me of the big, chunky video batteries at the place I used to work. Those split in half solely so you could legally carry them on a plane.
Under 100wh is good to go. His pack is perfectly fine.
Don’t get the acrylic cases. Turns my sw2303 into an easy bake oven.
Edit oh you’re talking about the 16 or 24 cell powerbank? Wrap the cells in 1200mah fake sleeves. Problem solved.
I've had no luck with their 120W board. I think it gets way too hot and shuts down any time I try to pull over 60W. The inductor on that board isn't the same as what I have on my SC8812A board and the different SW2303 boards.
Same with 2 versions of the SW2303 and I'm using the LG MJ1 so same output capacity but not paralleled like you.
EDIT: SC8812A board is now working trouble free. You gave me a hmmmmm moment when I realized I had never charged the cells through the board like you did. Glad I had my 5P pack because it charged at nearly 6 amps!
I have a 48v ebike/scooter battery pack from a wrecked scooter I'm going to make a battery bank from. It charges via 54.6v charger but provides a ton of power. This video gave me ideas for the project. Thanks!
I am currently also a designing a power bank with 8 cells in onshape so this video is a big help for me :)
The measuring the capacity of the battery (the 4 leds) was interesting for me.
1 idea: Many things (phone and much more) work with 1 lipocell. What if you have only a external battery to use this things? You can use a much bigger battery, your phone cannot fall to the ground, old devices can work for ever, it is easy to change the battery and thiefs get a problem :)
Nice
Guess what? About phones having a single cell, I have a fairly old but very capable phone (Redmi Note 4x) for which I made an external battery with four 18650 cells after the phone's original battery went completely bad. And yes, I usually attach it to the phone holder of a game controller which I place on a table. I mostly use it for watching movies or as a WiFi hotspot for my other devices (like right now).
It's a really cool idea, one that I've been using for months now.
I have a few old ipods and iphones with completely dead batteries. They work perfectly fine using a powerbank.
Any chance you could measure output ripple? Might also be worth mentioning that while IC supports up to 28 VBAT, the board in question is limited to 17V/4S max due to inadequate LDO.
That's a shame, as this seems like it'd match well with an 18V power tool battery.
I Really like your videos, thank you for all your efforts. i admire you working method, patience, and organization
This is the post that convinced me to support on Patreon . Well deserved. Thank you for your dedication and contribution to learning
It's definitely tempting to build one with a large capacity, but then it would be even more frustrating to only have one output I guess
They have PCB's that can be superimposed on each other. The problem with this one might be the battery management.
It amazes me that so much power can go through such small USB
It can partly power my PS5, or even my desktop PC or my whole house
@@tomer4566 It can *partly* power New York, that's the thing about the word "partly"
I've been looking for something like this for a while, fantastic. Thank you!!!
That was a great video. I definitely learned something new today. Thank you.
What spotwelder did you use for the battery tabs? I'm looking for something that's not to expensive for some future projects.
I am using the kWelder.
Is there any link to the BMS?
After seeing strange parts recent video about fast charging iphones, it would be interesting to make a fast charging battery pack using the similar Lithium-Super Capacitors. They have lower energy density but something that can charge very quickly and have a long product lifetime would be really interesting to explore. Great video too :)
Thanks so much for making this video! I've been wondering about this subject for a few weeks now but could'nt find a 100W pcb anywhere
hey scott! i was in market for a dolby atmos surround sound home theater. but looking at prices my jaw dropped. i was thinking of building it myself and i thought it would be a great idea for an episode for DIY or buy.
Dolby atmos is proprietary. You won't get a decoder board for it. You can buy super expensive atmos av preprocessors but that defeats the purpose of diy.
Atmos is heavily proprietary and actively protected, even in the usual copyright is a guideline places (ie Russian and Chinese suppliers if you know where to look). You won't be able to DIY for any cheaper than commercial offerings.
Dolby actively protect defunct tape noise reduction systems that they haven't licensed in thirty years. They don't let any of their IP go. Even if it's no longer a money earner.
@@medes5597 Maybe we can salvage some parts from older units and use other components like many DIY projects everything doesn't have to be a brand-new component. use the Dolby decoder as a black-box no need to understand all the details just the necessary ones to make it run. even there are some open source surround sound standards that could be used or any workaround. it's a good project to be explored. although I don't know anything substantial to make one myself yet.
@@jitendrasharma8685 that might actually be workable. Atmos probably has more documentation than the older systems too.
I did try and get dolby noise reduction working on a tape player I made (solely as a personal project) and the lack of public documentation was what made the task impossible. Atmos must have some hobbyists and such who are working on it.
Apologies if I came off too negative, I was remembering my own struggles with dolby systems and how much of a dead end it ended up being and I think I came across way more negative than intended. It's a good idea. Definitely worth exploring. At the very least investigating Atmos from a perspective of recreating it is a good idea regardless of outcome.
I would like to build this but when more cells in parallel. I thought there would be no implications for this but after watching the video, I was surprised to see there was a max AH rating on the battery. Why is this?
is it possible to put 16 batteries? of course 16.8V, each cell contains 4 batteries, and of course with a BMS protection circuit, does it work? :)
@@behnamp9174 so far so good. according to spec sheets it’s actually the default 4s4p configuration.
Couple years ago I built a charger that utilized power tool batteries. Upgraded it recently and it can discharge at 250 watts with power delivery and everything. Ryobi packs are a great deal at 60 bucks for two 74wh packs as well.
PD output is 250W?
@@ericklein5097 No, three separate charge controllers, two of which are delivering 100 watts each and third is 50 watt with a legacy usb port and usbc port.
Very interesting board. I'm in the middle of building a large solar generator and want to include some usb-c ports on it. I might need to take a look at this one.... But since I'm already making 12v available I might just go the easy route and get one made for 12v. The efficiency will definitely take a hit though getting converted twice.
I got that 100W baseus power bank and it's honestly too wide. I would prefer if it were skinnier and longer.
The 65W version is perfect though.
I remember way back in the day making a portable generator that could do 3A at 5V. You REALLY had to crank it though. Charged things up pretty quick for its time.
That's why I bought the anker one (737) on sale. It's still pricy but I didn't feel like DIY-ing it :)
Thank you for sharing this project.
I love this.
As a fellow electronics content creator, i can really appreciate this video. People have no idea how much time and effort goes into the research and development process.
Keep up the great work Mr. Scott. I love your videos.
Glad you enjoyed it!
How fitting, i was looking for something like that for a project.
Danke!
I just bought the same module, and I found your video with the same module!
What a coincidence!
Never thought you would cover this module. (ps : subbed you since 2015)
DIY is better than Buying!
Not every time
Well,....it depends. Buy is usually a bit cheaper but not as customizable as DIY. Both have their place.
@@greatscottlab He said 'better than' not 'cheaper than'....and I agree, DIYing is much more fun..hence better😉
@@apurvsharma1261 Yes! I agree!
@@greatscottlab DIY is cheaper, more fun and improves our knowledge!
That's crazy! Not even hot, must be some crazy low rds-on ohms on those mosfets.
And that the usb can handle that much with its small connectors is also insane :D
What module did you use to simulate the different charging standards? I see it quickly being shown in the video.
It is USB-C PD Trigger board. Just search for it on Google or similar ;-)
Great project! I would love to see you create your own PCB with the ICs and show us how to approach PCB Design.
Great Video, thank you. What do you think about the multi port 200w IP6559 + IP6550 dual-module? And would this be usable for a compact but powerful DIY powerbank with two 1160100 batteries with 10000mah each?
Nice, thanks for sharing! Great PCB.
Awesome work as usual.
High capacity fast charge battery pack for portable electronics gadgets including fast charging laptop battery dock can be build using your DIY version of power bank.
I'm not sure if it's your left-handedness or simply the angle of the camera, but I love seeing your paper notes/explanations; they are so easy to read!
It may also have to do with the European numerals as well :) But mostly the camera angle and depth of field on the subject (what he's writing)
I think all of these power banks lack a great feature to passthrough without some kind of reset and drop in power output.
This one baseus 100w actually have this feature, but will output 30w when charged and "discharged" at the same time(I guess even if it is fully charged). It will be very useful for laptop setup.
you are my hero, i travel to place that still experience power outages. im a remote worker so ive been looking to build a battery that can power my laptop through the day. this project sounds great. i can travel with the cells unwelded and weld them wehen i get to my destination. i cant do that with a buy option
great! I was looking for one with PD for the last few weeks for my new laptop, great timing!
This is very timely, I was just thinking of doing this project this week!
To make your own powerbank, you need to:
- know Ohm's law and how to wire banks in parallel/series to achieve desired output voltage/power
- know how to measure output voltages of each battery (unless you want your powerbank to set your house on fire after a few charges)
- know how to spotweld
- know what gage of wire you need to use
- know if the batteries you use have their own BMS or if you need your own
- know to just buy a commercial product if you aren't capable of understanding any of the above
Thank you for this heads up
One of my favorite video. Because i actually ended up making tbis myself.
Awesome. If you use 20A for those cells, you could make an electric generator which can be charged at home or by solar panels and use it if you need to camp or in the garage to power a drill or a grinder.
And what you have done would solve the problem when watching Netflix on the airplane for like 3hrs using an external monitor. Or a Samsung Tab S8 tablet.
Thanks very interest and detailed project.
I love your videos. You're so smart and informative. Thank you for always putting out "great" content. Could you add more batteries to the buy version so you'd get the best of both worlds? Since you can 3D print another case it wouldn't be a challenge for the extra batteries. Or does the PCB only allow a maximum wH?
You might run into problems with the display firmware wanting to see a certain amount of watt hours. And the board inisde that Baseus is gonna be a bitch to fit in a new case. But overall I think a high capacity pouch cell based on the Baseus would be the way to go.
Eres un maquina, te sigo hace tiempo, siempre me sorprendo con tu contenido, eres el mejor.
great video as always !! please keep them coming !!! 👍
hi. can you please explain one point - is it possible to connect elements of high capacity (like lg chem for 78 amp hours or big prismatic cells) to this board? on the seller's page there is a table in which something is said about resistance and transistor r5, they say that the maximum capacity of the cell is 25000 mAh. the reason for the restriction is not obvious to me, especially if bms board is used. ty
Thanks on a well explained video, I’ll be making my next project soon. Could you please make a video on the spot welder you used on this video and it’s components list.
Thank you!
Really love your videos. Keep up the brilliant work
Thank you so much for the compliment. I know my camera work is potato. I really need a new phone but lately I've been living somewhere where cell service in my house is TERRIBLE and with a case on my phone I barely get 1 bar. I have to leave the case off to get 2 bars which means it falls and gets damaged quite a bit thanks to Apple deciding to make the slickest phones in the galaxy.
If you want me to review a board feel free to recommend one. No guarantee that I will get it but any 100W+ USB PD board under $25 I come across gets put in my shopping cart and I buy them when my other projects aren't taking up my whole budget. Last night I bought 96 A123 ANR26650 cells that are 2500mah but have a continuous discharge rate of 50A. Its a 36V 12S8P LiFeP04 pack that can easily be chopped into 3 pieces to make a 12V 60Ah (54Ah+ guaranteed by seller) battery for......$100. Only need a new BMS because the one it comes with is for 12S obviously. Thats cheaper than any 12V 50Ah LiFeP04 battery available today and it has a theoretical output of 400A continuous.
www.ebay.com/itm/285093247320?hash=item4260e1b958:g:6SsAAOSwlQtjkmEs&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCrHnFtEcXjpZI3%2F9U0lFxpBz8D759dKQj%2Fd38vVneP7QgQDuhauF%2FdfLJfJGTmyktiTeI5X4kAbtErVK0Q7hIL557Ee%2BC93U47RQB7ketOyIXY%2FkX3rAZ6epHRIuS0nzY7%2Fa4Z0WsdKfbnxeITfeM%2FTA5JQ2YeKXqBtHR1wcm4W1Wpi68gUXbeCP1sLNu90Qj9eg3MmILt3xrAWthOks%2FU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76uy9StYQ
You can make an offer and I was able to figure the seller has an auto deny/accept amount set to $90 so the total for me was $97 since it has free shipping. Battery Clearinghouse has these cells for the same price (and slightly cheaper for M1A) at the same price but shipping for me was something like $65!
Here's the BCH listing of M1A's
www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/a123-26650-lfp-38-4v-96-cell-rack-style-lifep04-pack?variant=39671480320078
@@ericklein5097 your video work has been very good. Close ups are detailed enough that I can see the components. Your format is terrific. I look.forward to every video you put out. You explain electronics in a very concise manner. I learn something new every time you put a video out. Thanks for the tips on batteries. Always need batteries.
Thank you for the informative manual (as always :))
This module has a line of 8 contacts (4 of them marked as L1 and L2). Do you know what these contacts do? By default the module is pre-configured for 4S battery pack with 4.2v per cell. Could it be balance contacts (in this case 4s BMS is not required)?
I recently bought a similar buck converter off eBay, it’s a 5-32v input 0.8-20v out DC I needed it for voltage step down from my bms to 5v for a d1 mini
The reason they use "fuel gauge" algorithm is that the battery voltage doesn't map to battery remaining capacity.
Lithium batteries spend most of their time between 3.5 volts and 4 volts and the voltage isn't indicative of the remaining charge.
It is like boiling water in a pot, temperature will plateau at 100C until there isn't water left, at which point the temperature will raise.
Bingo. Fuel gauges are useless for lithium ion and flat out misleading for LiFePO4
I wonder if it would be possible to change the reported max power draw of the board to 90W in order to keep the voltage in the correct range.
Great project, thanks for sharing
I’ve wanted to build a 300+Wh battery that can input/output with the latest 240W usb pd. Now I know it would be easier than I previous thought.
This board only does 100w (or 90). I haven't yet seen an ic for 240w
I'm using 1.8ah 18650 LiFePO4 cells in my projects. They charge and discharge at 1C. This looks like an interesting board.
Currently DIYing a 148 Wh power bank, won't have PD, but can be retrofitted later if needed. Will have laptop charging with 10 various connectors, 2 USB A ports with quickcharge and charging speed of the powerbank at 35W, while theoretically being able to output 160W. All for around 60€, since I grabbed some 21700 cells on sale from LG after they had an automotive project cancelled and sold out the cells from it, 5 Ah cell for 3.75€ each
Been looking forever for a pcb that can take usb c charge and discharge with power delivery. THANK YOU
Great video. I look forward to creating my own. Do you have any links to the BMS you used or one you would recommend?
Your voice is so clear and easy to listen too. 👍
Id love to see an updated version with the new 240w USB-C. Does anyone know if theres a board out like what was used here but that can do the 240w output?
You made a good informative video, I want to make more videos like this
Thanks for the great information and efforts , please tell me is this diy power bank safe for my old laptop hp that charge with beral socket (i will use 100w converter from type c to beral ) the laptop charger out is 19.5V 3.33 A 65w
I want to try this project using 8 ncr18650 Panasonic batteries (4s2p). Do I need to change the parameters on the powerbank module? It seems to me like the default parameters should be the same, but I am not so sure. Specially about the charging current one, which in the case of the ncr18650b battery is 1625mA x 2 (parallel) = 3.25A (as opposed to the 3100mA x 2 = 6.2A of the lg battery in this video) . Since it exceeds the 3A from this chart 6:16 I don´t know if I should leave it at 5A or set the module to the closest 3A. I just started learning about this topic so any help would be much appreciated.
edit: time stamp format
Thank you so much for finding this! I have a ton of lion cells I want to use for this.
I have a 3S 10Ah pouch cells pack I made. Do you think it may be worth it converting it to a PD power bank or only 4S is more suited? BTW I have the same power monitor usbc cable 👍
When I saw the title and thumbnail I just KNEW you were going to say something about the awesomeness of usb-c.
Usb-c is pretty cool I agree.
It is super cool :-) Will be very big in the future
Just this morning I searched for making one of these to extend my laptop battery, thank you!
Glad I could help!
A friend of mine has a power bank about 1/3 that size that can also output 100w. He uses it to charge his laptop. They're pretty easy to get from most electronics stores...
Super video, it's actually close to a dyi project for my astro gear I need to (re) do (and would not mind some help on component selection): I need a battery bank that output a constant voltage, low noise 12v 10A mini (ideally 20A for overhead), use 4s lipo RC pack (because I have them) and include recharge input/balancing + all the protection possible (event low temp if possible) -> my astro gear is quite dear to me. So from what I can understand I need voltage regulator + bms + a 220v power supply (to 16.8v?), but there is so much ref out there I'm getting lost.
Been playing with this board myself. I personally love that it also supports LiFePO4, which while stores less energy is a lot safer than Li-Ion
Less energy by weight. As long as you don't need the pack to be mobile that is not so important. Safety is important.
Have you been able to output 100W PD for more than 5 min?
Fantastic work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
I've seen those little boards before! I'm definitely going to get some!
Stay safe and creative there! 🖖😊
Thanks. Go for it :-)
So for the DIY version:
What is the usable capacity? With 2.9V it seems like it cuts of a bit early. Is that only under no-load? What about standby-power?
And for the bought battery bank - charging- and discharging efficiency?
waiting for this, very interesting video, I hope more power related videos will come ... more power to GREAT 👍👍👍👍 SCOTT !
More to come! ;-)
building a couple of these out of old gen2 ipads. can get them with broken screen/motherboars for around 8$, and they have a 6500-6900mah battery inside (three pouch cells, each about 2200 mah). since they are prebalanced, you just have to rip out the old screen and logic board, and wire them in series. stick the bms and PD board in and align it with the old holes in the aluminium housing. for a cover, just do 1-2 sheets of fiberglass/arimid weave in a vacume bag with some cheap epoxy between two baking sheets, and then trim it down to shape with a dremel to fit on top. Boom, ultra thin 24wh usbc bank that fits in any laptop case without adding any thickness.
whats even cooler is you can do this with gen3 ipads and get hdmi breakout boards for their screens, and then turn a 20$ old dumpster gen3 ipad into a usbc powerbank with built in retnia display screen extension, all in a super slim package.
tbh since im only using 3s configuration, i might just omit the BMS since it almost doubles the cost. this is the ultimate usbc gigachad diy project lol, and it saves the environment. ill test each pouch and see if their internal resistances are far off... but i doubt it will be an issue. aliminum housing is a good heatsink but i might put SSD copper heatsink in there if there is enough space, or just epoxy some old copper coins lol
I've got a customer's power bank which has an issue with working from the battery. I can't find the fault in it ;). So, I'm planning to reuse the case, charger, sockets & plugs, 18650's with mounts for them, even the LED. The driver I see here, for me make sense, so, the cost won't be 80 Euro. I've replaced dead 18650's and now all are holding power. This was an inverter as well, but this part works when is in a charge more, so, will work with this design later on.
Thank you for this video, gave me ideas how to not create an e-waste, but repurpose as much as I can from an old one :).
@greatscott nice videos!!! i have a question...basically i need to reduce the number of transformers...for example i have 19.8V/90W transformer for NAS, 12V transformer for router, 6V transformer for a switch, 6V for wifi, 12V for the isp modem...they all together consume around 120W when idle...is there any way of making/buying a transformer with such a diverse power/voltage outputs? thanks a lot
Nice video. Thanks!
Been thinking to make one myself but with lifepo not lipo( i dont want explosive cells). Maybe 32650 cells. Would last 20+ years. Id like it a little beefy, not skinny like those run of the mill 10/20.000 mah banks. Maybe 24 cells (12v nominal & 36 ah 6s4p) and a quad usb quick charge port. Port board cost about 5$. Cells are 2$ each. Charge it with a 14v 20a charger. Like a car charger. Small 1a active balancer is 3-4$ and a bms.. maybe the same... Or slightly more.
Generally just for tablet and phone charging. Juuust gotta get around to it.. did make one last month, but that was 63 cells and not super light.
Hmm.. might add a buck converter for a 50/100/200watt solar panel charge port, that be kinda neat hmm..6$ more :)
I had a laptop powerbank at UNI. 40000mAh/148Wh. It was a literal brick to carry, but it was the only way to have laptop running without searching for a power outlet, which were scarce.
Great Video, in fact I just built myself a similar DIY Powerbank with LiFePo4 Cells and this exact chip to charge my Laptop while I'm at uni, but The chip is on a custom board with more Outputs and Inputs (2x USB A, 1x USB C, micro USB and Lightning as well as an DC barrel jack) with an included BMS and Balancing on the same PCB. Its on Aliexpress (as all interesting electronics goodies) and has an display that shows the current percentage and if fast charging is active.
Sounds like a good project :-)
Can you give a part number for that chip?
@@stevebabiak6997 It's a ip2368, cf 1:39 😉
Very informative video. Which 3D modelling software did you use to print out the power bank enclosure?
I love your channel. I love this very simple project and I nearly bought the module to power laptop from my 4S DIY Solar battery.
But, I read in the Ali-Express description: "The bi-directional c-port of the product can only be connected to one-way appliances or chargers, such as charging heads, mobile phones and other appliances, etc. It is forbidden to link bidirectional c-ports to modules with bidirectional c-ports, which may cause frequent switching between modules that cannot be identified and may be damaged in serious cases."
...I'm not a pro, but I did test my laptop PD socket and it will charge my phone, so it is bi-directional, and I guess this is the same for any PD laptop, this means the module is not suitable to power laptop afterall..? or did I missunderstand?
Hey Scott, thank you for this useful video. May I know what kind of marker you use at 9:15? I would like to get myself a similar one. Thanks.
hi idol, can you confirm default 20000mah if total of 4s or just 1s? if so then default can be 80000mah for 4s? thank you