@@Lyinglemure I’m changing my fuel setup to run E85. You could run the sensor in series with the feed line that goes to the cyl 1/3 rail. Not sure how restrictive the sensor is to flow though, as Cobb specifies to mount their ethanol sensors on the return side of the system. This setup doesn’t have enough room on the return to mount an ethanol sensor.
One of the most clear fuel line installs on YT. Very informative. Subies engine bays are always a mess with hoes and wires. I like the lume on the fuel line. Will definitely be doing the same.
What about the other side of the fuel rails? You only showed installing one side ? Did u close off the other side . And the middle line that you didn’t hook up from the feed line and return but theirs a middle line did u leave it untouched
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment sooner. This kit is a bit tough to run flex fuel on, as it doesn’t have much available line to install a flex fuel sensor. Cobbs installation instructions say to install the flex fuel sensor pre regulator when the regulator is mounted on the return side of the system. This setup is mounting the regulator on the feed side. I’m sure you could install the sensor in line with either feed line to either rail, but there is not much room to mount it. If you mount the sensor somewhere under the manifold & in line with the feed line going to the Cyl 1/3 rail, I’m sure it would work, but then your sensor is going to be mounted to the engine which experiences an excessive amount of vibration & will cause premature failure of the ethanol sensor. I’m re routing my fuel system for this specific reason. Im switching to flex fuel & this radium kit just doesn’t physically have the space to mount the ethanol sensor properly. I’ll go over it more in a future video for sure! Hope that helps! :)
Are the fuel pulse dampers mandatory if you are going to cap off the one end of the rail like that? There wouldnt be anywhere else to run the air hoses correct?
Pulse dampers aren’t mandatory, but I highly recommend them. Honestly not sure if I recommend the caps on the end of the rails. I’ve been getting a cylinder 1 misfire & I think it has to do with the dead end fuel rails. I’m gonna try running a parallel return system & T both rails together to see if it fixes my issue.
So I’m curious if your tuner recommended this fuel system, or was he pissed, and is your motor still running, because parallel dead head with regulator before rails is a pretty bad way to setup a fuel system. If radium actually sells this as a kit I’m shocked because they a very knowledgeable of how to balance pressure/flow for a fuel system. Systems like this can cause 2 injectors to have less pressure and flow causing a lean condition. If you ever redo fuel system ideal way would be feed from pump to a inline pulse damper, to a y split to each rail then a 180 degree fitting on end of rail back to front meeting back at the y fitting then over to regulator. All lines will be equal length, and have equal flow/pressure at each injector. Food for thought, but I’ve tuned dead head fuel systems and they absolutely suck!
Tuner did not recommend the kit & now that I have run & experienced the kit, neither do I. I was testing this kit out & although it did perform very well (made 512whp & 440 torque on pump 94 on a mustang dyno) with little to no correction in the fuel tables, I still don’t like the idea of the dead head system. The car has run 11 second 1/4 miles on this kit as well. Radium does sell this as a full kit. If you know Pascals Law, theoretically each injector should still get equal flow in this system. The flip side to that is Pascals Law only applies to fluid in an enclosed system. This is an enclosed system, but the injectors are duty cycled to open/close at a rapid rate (which would technically make this not an enclosed system) so that is why I think that the last injector on the rail in this system would get less fuel flow. This is all just speculation though, we don’t know what’s actually going on inside of that fuel rail. If radium sells this as a full kit, I trust that they did the proper R&D to verify this kit functions well. This car has been making this power for 2 summers now with countless track events & has been on the dyno twice with this fuel setup. Has had 0 lean issues caused by this fuel system & all 4 plugs are burning equal. Like I said, I’m not a fan of the dead head rail idea, but I can’t find any flaws in the actual functionality of it so far (result based). I can’t bash a kit that has been working for the past 2 seasons, but I will be switching to a parallel flow through system with the y fitting & regulator on the return side. I already bought the lines & fittings for it a couple months back. Appreciate the comment my man 🙌🏼
@@DanielKellert If you mount the FPR on the firewall right behind the Intake manifold you will have equal length to both rails. Then "all lines will be equal length, and have equal flow/pressure at each injector." This fuel system works is just that most people are not familiar with it and we start speculating flaws.
Im going to get some vibrant performance hoses for my fueling upgrade in my 2015 STi, do you know how much is needed, meassurments/dimensions and fittings?
Honestly depends how you route your fuel lines. I would just buy more than you need & cut hoses to length as you need it. For fittings it depends how you’re routing it to your rails & regulator. But depending on your power goals I would probably get -6AN fuel lines & fittings.
@@DanielKellert thanks man, its a long project, already took my engine out, now im debating what exactly to do with my cyl. heads before. Im going to refresh it, change springs and retainers, beehive most likely, but regarding the cams dont know yet if I'll keep the stock ones or upgrade to 272. Turbo i bought is a Precision 6062 .82 AR vband, still need the hard parts, short block and few more goodies.
Didn’t miss anything! The car is currently running on this setup. It’s called a parallel fuel system. Each rail is fed fuel directly with their own feed line from the regulator. The regulator has its own return line on it to return any excess fuel to the fuel tank.
You missed nothing, this set up is just awful. He basically made a dead head system with a "return"... that for some reason is made to only return fuel that never got into the lines/ rails it should be returning from... and the fpr is before the fuel rails... Man used a parallel return system on a car that uses a return system and made it dead head!? Poor subie would be running so much better with an actual parallel return setup but looks over performance I guess.
my system says return lines only pass through the regulator = feed goes to a y - piece through the rails and returned to inlet on the regulator and return is underneath - and that is how injectors get full flow and do not remove the pulsation valves ! google it and see how !
So I know this video was a year ago but where did the 3 hard fuel line route to? Cuz I have the return on the bottom and the feed is on top but what’s the middle one?
The middle line is your evap purge line. The blue hard line comes from your fuel tank & basically re directs all of the fuel vapours to your purge valve which re directs the vapours into your intake manifold. This is so the fuel vapours are not released into the atmosphere & are re used in the combustion of the engine. It is basically just an emissions control. In my setup, I deleted the purge valves completely & vented the blue evap/purge line to atmosphere. Hope that helps & if you have any other questions don’t be afraid to ask!
@@DanielKellert Thank you soo much!!! Seriously this helps me out a lot and now after this I’m gonna see if she cranks over after my first actual build on a car!
Such a great video. You and smeedia are my go to subie guru’s:) thanks . Got a 2011 wrx. Will do the same set up.
Thanks man 🤙🏼
Are you gonna run E85 ? Where you gonna put the sensor?
@@Lyinglemure I’m changing my fuel setup to run E85. You could run the sensor in series with the feed line that goes to the cyl 1/3 rail. Not sure how restrictive the sensor is to flow though, as Cobb specifies to mount their ethanol sensors on the return side of the system. This setup doesn’t have enough room on the return to mount an ethanol sensor.
@@DanielKellert I thought so, why I asked. Im trying to figure how to run both right now
One of the most clear fuel line installs on YT. Very informative. Subies engine bays are always a mess with hoes and wires. I like the lume on the fuel line. Will definitely be doing the same.
It definitely helps the mess of hoses look a little bit better 😅 thank you 👍🏼
You can use this regulator with the cobb flex fuel sensor?
What about the other side of the fuel rails? You only showed installing one side ? Did u close off the other side . And the middle line that you didn’t hook up from the feed line and return but theirs a middle line did u leave it untouched
If you were to run the cobb flex fuel sensor where would you install it? I'm running the same exact radium setup as you.
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment sooner. This kit is a bit tough to run flex fuel on, as it doesn’t have much available line to install a flex fuel sensor. Cobbs installation instructions say to install the flex fuel sensor pre regulator when the regulator is mounted on the return side of the system. This setup is mounting the regulator on the feed side. I’m sure you could install the sensor in line with either feed line to either rail, but there is not much room to mount it. If you mount the sensor somewhere under the manifold & in line with the feed line going to the Cyl 1/3 rail, I’m sure it would work, but then your sensor is going to be mounted to the engine which experiences an excessive amount of vibration & will cause premature failure of the ethanol sensor. I’m re routing my fuel system for this specific reason. Im switching to flex fuel & this radium kit just doesn’t physically have the space to mount the ethanol sensor properly. I’ll go over it more in a future video for sure! Hope that helps! :)
Are the fuel pulse dampers mandatory if you are going to cap off the one end of the rail like that? There wouldnt be anywhere else to run the air hoses correct?
Pulse dampers aren’t mandatory, but I highly recommend them. Honestly not sure if I recommend the caps on the end of the rails. I’ve been getting a cylinder 1 misfire & I think it has to do with the dead end fuel rails. I’m gonna try running a parallel return system & T both rails together to see if it fixes my issue.
So I’m curious if your tuner recommended this fuel system, or was he pissed, and is your motor still running, because parallel dead head with regulator before rails is a pretty bad way to setup a fuel system. If radium actually sells this as a kit I’m shocked because they a very knowledgeable of how to balance pressure/flow for a fuel system. Systems like this can cause 2 injectors to have less pressure and flow causing a lean condition. If you ever redo fuel system ideal way would be feed from pump to a inline pulse damper, to a y split to each rail then a 180 degree fitting on end of rail back to front meeting back at the y fitting then over to regulator. All lines will be equal length, and have equal flow/pressure at each injector. Food for thought, but I’ve tuned dead head fuel systems and they absolutely suck!
Tuner did not recommend the kit & now that I have run & experienced the kit, neither do I. I was testing this kit out & although it did perform very well (made 512whp & 440 torque on pump 94 on a mustang dyno) with little to no correction in the fuel tables, I still don’t like the idea of the dead head system. The car has run 11 second 1/4 miles on this kit as well. Radium does sell this as a full kit. If you know Pascals Law, theoretically each injector should still get equal flow in this system. The flip side to that is Pascals Law only applies to fluid in an enclosed system. This is an enclosed system, but the injectors are duty cycled to open/close at a rapid rate (which would technically make this not an enclosed system) so that is why I think that the last injector on the rail in this system would get less fuel flow. This is all just speculation though, we don’t know what’s actually going on inside of that fuel rail. If radium sells this as a full kit, I trust that they did the proper R&D to verify this kit functions well. This car has been making this power for 2 summers now with countless track events & has been on the dyno twice with this fuel setup. Has had 0 lean issues caused by this fuel system & all 4 plugs are burning equal. Like I said, I’m not a fan of the dead head rail idea, but I can’t find any flaws in the actual functionality of it so far (result based). I can’t bash a kit that has been working for the past 2 seasons, but I will be switching to a parallel flow through system with the y fitting & regulator on the return side. I already bought the lines & fittings for it a couple months back. Appreciate the comment my man 🙌🏼
@@DanielKellert
If you mount the FPR on the firewall right behind the Intake manifold you will have equal length to both rails.
Then "all lines will be equal length, and have equal flow/pressure at each injector."
This fuel system works is just that most people are not familiar with it and we start speculating flaws.
Where did you install fuel dampers? Bottom of the fuel rails?
Where would you put a flex fuel kit with this set up?
Im going to get some vibrant performance hoses for my fueling upgrade in my 2015 STi, do you know how much is needed, meassurments/dimensions and fittings?
Honestly depends how you route your fuel lines. I would just buy more than you need & cut hoses to length as you need it. For fittings it depends how you’re routing it to your rails & regulator. But depending on your power goals I would probably get -6AN fuel lines & fittings.
@@DanielKellert thanks man, its a long project, already took my engine out, now im debating what exactly to do with my cyl. heads before. Im going to refresh it, change springs and retainers, beehive most likely, but regarding the cams dont know yet if I'll keep the stock ones or upgrade to 272. Turbo i bought is a Precision 6062 .82 AR vband, still need the hard parts, short block and few more goodies.
@@TheE3R Sounds like it will be a killer build 🤙🏼 I’m still stock heads right now 😅
@@DanielKellert time and money and patience🙏🤞
Missed something
You capped the front off on both rails
How is it being fed and returned with one line to each rail
Didn’t miss anything! The car is currently running on this setup. It’s called a parallel fuel system. Each rail is fed fuel directly with their own feed line from the regulator. The regulator has its own return line on it to return any excess fuel to the fuel tank.
You missed nothing, this set up is just awful. He basically made a dead head system with a "return"... that for some reason is made to only return fuel that never got into the lines/ rails it should be returning from... and the fpr is before the fuel rails... Man used a parallel return system on a car that uses a return system and made it dead head!? Poor subie would be running so much better with an actual parallel return setup but looks over performance I guess.
my system says return lines only pass through the regulator = feed goes to a y - piece through the rails and returned to inlet on the regulator and return is underneath - and that is how injectors get full flow and do not remove the pulsation valves ! google it and see how !
I have responded to other comments on this video addressing this & you are also correct. Go check em out 👍🏼
Do you have a link to the loom? I've got the same kit
In the description!
Helpful video! 👍💪
So I know this video was a year ago but where did the 3 hard fuel line route to? Cuz I have the return on the bottom and the feed is on top but what’s the middle one?
The middle line is your evap purge line. The blue hard line comes from your fuel tank & basically re directs all of the fuel vapours to your purge valve which re directs the vapours into your intake manifold. This is so the fuel vapours are not released into the atmosphere & are re used in the combustion of the engine. It is basically just an emissions control. In my setup, I deleted the purge valves completely & vented the blue evap/purge line to atmosphere. Hope that helps & if you have any other questions don’t be afraid to ask!
@@DanielKellert Thank you soo much!!! Seriously this helps me out a lot and now after this I’m gonna see if she cranks over after my first actual build on a car!
@@jayssubi Good luck! 🤞🏼🤞🏼
@@DanielKellert update she’s running phenomenal!!! You sir have helped me out!!!
Good stuff brother…………..9
Closer & closer to that first start every day 🙌🏼