Good video, but here's a heads up for everyone. You're not supposed to use Teflon tape on any fuel fittings, the tape will deteriorate over time. This can cause a leak, or even a fire in your engine bay. There is a gas friendly Teflon tape you can buy (it's yellow btw). If you don't plan on ever removing the gauge you can use lock-tight, or there's a couple of liquid gasket's you can buy at your local auto store. Just looking out, good luck.
@12:25 I must always correct you guys. These are never ever Philip's Head Screws. Never in the past and future. Japanese use JIS Screws Japanese Industry Standard. That's why when it comes to torque a PH Bit or Screwdriver will destroy the JIS head. Keep up the good work Rgds Carsten from Germany
So true drives me nuts when they refer to as Phillips the head doesn’t quite fit right it will work but run the risk of caming out and stripping the head, I bought a set of JIS Drivers for my Nissan truck well worth the money and so much better than Philips.
the way the regulator builds pressure in your system is by blocking the flow of fuel returning to the tank. the fuel pump wont run high pressure unrestricted, ala without the regulator. its like putting your thumb over the garden hose end.
Sorry to ask a stupid question, but.... I watched this twice and missed where the fuel line from the pump enters the regulator? You have a return back to the tank, a line going to the fuel rail and a vacuum line that regulates how much fuel the pump should allow the regulator to flow but I saw no line from the pump to the regulator, so how are you getting fuel to the whole system? Thanks Mike
Thank you for your response, I have a naturally aspirated car and regulate fuel flow between the pump and the carb rather than after. Thanks again... Mike
Great delivery man good tip about the tape. Still abit unsure about the fuel in & fuel return line setup. Mine might b a little different its an l67 gm seeing 10 psi boost apx. Anyway i will keep on @ it till i peice it 2geather. Thnxs man.
i have a bypass 12-887 pressure regulator do you have to hook up the vacuum port line ..i didnt hook mine up i just converted tbi to carb i just put brandnew edelbrock 1406 carb on it and its backfiring popping out my exhaust..i got the pressure set at 6psi
i have a question， do u need to do anything in particular when putting this on a boost vehicle? obviously because that vacume line with have boost entering it rather than vacuum at higher rpm? do u put oneway valve or the regulator works wen the boost goes to it
I have a question, I’m building a Volkswagen Trike and I put an electric fuel pump in the tank I need to regulate my fuel down to 4 pounds at the carburetor. I bought one of these regulators and I can only get it to go in and out I cannot get it to come back and go to the tank is there an in and out on that because it’s not Mart and this is the third regulator I bought they’re all doing basically the same and do I have to have the vacuum line hooked up for it to work
I dunno but the install seems wrong, you state fuel is coming into the regulator from the fuel rail on the side NPT and fuel returning to the tank from the bottom NPT, but would it not be the opposite? Most regulators I see have the inlet from the tank or fuel pump, at the bottom and the outlet to the carb or fuel rail from the side... with a seperate bypass outlet for return to the tank....
It's correct. Fuel from the pump comes through the fuel filter and feeds the rail. This is unregulated pressure. At the end of the rail is where the factory FPR is. Pressure is regulated and extra is dumped to the return line. With this FPR, fuel goes through the filter into the rail, through the barb fitting, into the FPR where pressure is regulated and excess is sent back to the tank through the bottom port (return) of the FPR. This is a common setup.
@@Saikou-Style Yeah, that's how I set mine up. I cut off the factory regulator at the end (mopar 3.3), and I NPT tappe 1/4" threads for the AN fittings. I then ran my new outlet to my regulator, before it drains off into the return, which is modified to taper from 1/4 to 3/16ths
men buen tutorial me ayudaste bastante tengo 2 preguntas 1- como esta conectado el retorno de la gasolina en la pump 2-que truco puedes aser para darle mas presion de gasolina a la pump espero que me ayudes con esto
Hi, I have a BMW E34 525i with an ALPINE Turbo, I purchased an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and installed it. I set it to 34psi at idle, but it only goes up to 39 psi at wide open throttle. I would like it to be round about 44 psi at wide open throttle. Do yo know how I can adjust the regulator to give me a bigger window. Should I try to put a weaker spring in the regulator. My previous regulator gave me 34psi to about 43 psi. But at idle my car is set 100% on 34 and 43psi, but as soon as I've driven it a while it goes totally lean to 20psi at idle and 32 psi. If I set it at 34psi and 43 psi when it's hot then it's smokes black smoke when it's cold, MUCH too rich, won't idle properly. If you know what I can do please help.
My adjustable fuel regulator’s adjusting screw got loose thread am i going to repeat the same process installing a new one? Or just replace it with the new one? Thanks!
Hey man, thanks for this, I'm a bit short on cash and need an adjustable FPR for my CRX, the specific made ones were a few hundred but universals like that one are only $50 and I wasn't sure how I'd hook them up. Hope you're having a good day.
I have a 1991 MR2 with 5sfe engine. I have put performance cams, header, and took out the cat. I also played with the timing. Would one of these regulators be a benefit to my car?
+Project Garage , I have not done that. I really don't want to do that in my car given its location. I do plan on doing a low boost set up later this year.
my KA is really simple. Stock head, stock block. Removed all emmisions. ISR headers and catback. ISR fpr. lightweight flywheel. for 180hp - 200hp, you're probably looking at ITBs, 370cc injectors, standalone ecu. it's hard to make that power na. however you can get that easy with like 5psi of boost on a stock block ka.
Project Garage I love mine.. be sure too tighten them really good. Other wise they can come lose. Had that problem its been 10k miles since i installed them and they just came lose. just tightened them after applying blue loctite on the bolts haven't had issues since.
The only video that showed everything. Thank you!
I'm glad it helped!
Good video, but here's a heads up for everyone. You're not supposed to use Teflon tape on any fuel fittings, the tape will deteriorate over time. This can cause a leak, or even a fire in your engine bay. There is a gas friendly Teflon tape you can buy (it's yellow btw). If you don't plan on ever removing the gauge you can use lock-tight, or there's a couple of liquid gasket's you can buy at your local auto store. Just looking out, good luck.
This is great advice and a good eye. Thanks for the heads up!
i like the way you explain every single in detail i had to subscribe to you channel
Thanks dude now i know what to do with mine iv had for 2 years will fit it this weekend
Nice informative video, thanks!
Great guide🙌🏼
@12:25 I must always correct you guys. These are never ever Philip's Head Screws. Never in the past and future. Japanese use JIS Screws Japanese Industry Standard. That's why when it comes to torque a PH Bit or Screwdriver will destroy the JIS head. Keep up the good work Rgds Carsten from Germany
So true drives me nuts when they refer to as Phillips the head doesn’t quite fit right it will work but run the risk of caming out and stripping the head, I bought a set of JIS Drivers for my Nissan truck well worth the money and so much better than Philips.
@@jenbill Thanks for your support, I can recommend it not even more, when someone drives owns a Japanese car, get jis bits.
Thank you for a clear explanation!!!🙏🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video man thanks.
the way the regulator builds pressure in your system is by blocking the flow of fuel returning to the tank. the fuel pump wont run high pressure unrestricted, ala without the regulator. its like putting your thumb over the garden hose end.
Sorry to ask a stupid question, but.... I watched this twice and missed where the fuel line from the pump enters the regulator? You have a return back to the tank, a line going to the fuel rail and a vacuum line that regulates how much fuel the pump should allow the regulator to flow but I saw no line from the pump to the regulator, so how are you getting fuel to the whole system? Thanks Mike
the pump connects to the fuel rail. The pump pressurizes the whole rail and the fpr is at the other end of the rail regulating the pressure
Thank you for your response, I have a naturally aspirated car and regulate fuel flow between the pump and the carb rather than after. Thanks again... Mike
Great info. Thank you very much.
Good video, thanks man.
I just purchased a P2M FPR and a 340lph FP. I'm waiting on the adaptor from Enjuku. P2M were out of the adaptors.
Great delivery man good tip about the tape. Still abit unsure about the fuel in & fuel return line setup. Mine might b a little different its an l67 gm seeing 10 psi boost apx. Anyway i will keep on @ it till i peice it 2geather. Thnxs man.
Where can I find the barb ends and fuel rail adapter. I plan to do this to my 92 Nissan D21 KA24E
Can you post a link to where you got the correct fittings? Would help a lot!
i have a bypass 12-887 pressure regulator do you have to hook up the vacuum port line ..i didnt hook mine up i just converted tbi to carb i just put brandnew edelbrock 1406 carb on it and its backfiring popping out my exhaust..i got the pressure set at 6psi
i have a question， do u need to do anything in particular when putting this on a boost vehicle? obviously because that vacume line with have boost entering it rather than vacuum at higher rpm? do u put oneway valve or the regulator works wen the boost goes to it
I have a question, I’m building a Volkswagen Trike and I put an electric fuel pump in the tank I need to regulate my fuel down to 4 pounds at the carburetor. I bought one of these regulators and I can only get it to go in and out I cannot get it to come back and go to the tank is there an in and out on that because it’s not Mart and this is the third regulator I bought they’re all doing basically the same and do I have to have the vacuum line hooked up for it to work
I dunno but the install seems wrong, you state fuel is coming into the regulator from the fuel rail on the side NPT and fuel returning to the tank from the bottom NPT, but would it not be the opposite? Most regulators I see have the inlet from the tank or fuel pump, at the bottom and the outlet to the carb or fuel rail from the side... with a seperate bypass outlet for return to the tank....
It's correct. Fuel from the pump comes through the fuel filter and feeds the rail. This is unregulated pressure. At the end of the rail is where the factory FPR is. Pressure is regulated and extra is dumped to the return line.
With this FPR, fuel goes through the filter into the rail, through the barb fitting, into the FPR where pressure is regulated and excess is sent back to the tank through the bottom port (return) of the FPR. This is a common setup.
@@Saikou-Style Yeah, that's how I set mine up. I cut off the factory regulator at the end (mopar 3.3), and I NPT tappe 1/4" threads for the AN fittings. I then ran my new outlet to my regulator, before it drains off into the return, which is modified to taper from 1/4 to 3/16ths
I know this video is older but do you have a link for where you found the connection pieces and regulator?
enjuki racing has the whole kit that comes with the fittings already, i just bought it and installed it
men buen tutorial me ayudaste bastante tengo 2 preguntas
1- como esta conectado el retorno de la gasolina en la pump
2-que truco puedes aser para darle mas presion de gasolina a la pump
espero que me ayudes con esto
Hi, I have a BMW E34 525i with an ALPINE Turbo, I purchased an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and installed it. I set it to 34psi at idle, but it only goes up to 39 psi at wide open throttle. I would like it to be round about 44 psi at wide open throttle. Do yo know how I can adjust the regulator to give me a bigger window. Should I try to put a weaker spring in the regulator. My previous regulator gave me 34psi to about 43 psi. But at idle my car is set 100% on 34 and 43psi, but as soon as I've driven it a while it goes totally lean to 20psi at idle and 32 psi. If I set it at 34psi and 43 psi when it's hot then it's smokes black smoke when it's cold, MUCH too rich, won't idle properly. If you know what I can do please help.
My adjustable fuel regulator’s adjusting screw got loose thread am i going to repeat the same process installing a new one? Or just replace it with the new one? Thanks!
Is this AFPR manufactured for Nissan only or can it be installed on any vehicle? (I have a 2005 Chevrolet Astro van).
Can it be any pressure regulator on turbo aplication or a turbo type one? Cheers
Where was it that he took the vacuum line from?
Came from the intake manifold.
Are you ever going to put a turbo on this engine? @Project Garage
Kevin Ogle currently SR swapping!
Stalker level - extreme
Hey man, thanks for this, I'm a bit short on cash and need an adjustable FPR for my CRX, the specific made ones were a few hundred but universals like that one are only $50 and I wasn't sure how I'd hook them up. Hope you're having a good day.
Nice work!!!!good video!!
Perfect!
How is the song at the end of the video called?
I have a 1991 MR2 with 5sfe engine. I have put performance cams, header, and took out the cat. I also played with the timing. Would one of these regulators be a benefit to my car?
It really starts to get necessary when you upgrade your fuel pump
+Project Garage ,
I have not done that. I really don't want to do that in my car given its location. I do plan on doing a low boost set up later this year.
Not sure the setup you'll be running, but depending on how much boost you're aiming for you may have to upgrade the pump
+Project Garage
Thanks for the reply, I don't think I will go past 10 psi.
I have been enjoying your channel, came here from Poor Man.
+boofighter no problem! do some more digging on that setup. I know if I run 10psi on my engine, an upgraded fuel pump is needed.
Why Sr fuel reg instead of stock Ka reg?
Because my KA one was blown and I had an SR one laying around haha
okay for some reason i thought you would have put it on there for performance gain, im australian we dont have ka's unless they are in utes
Is anyone familiarize when your regulator vibrates a lot. Makes it and truck backfires a lot???? Thanks in advance
how much do you make whp on your ka and what mods do you suggest to get around 200-180ish
need it to be reliable too
my KA is really simple. Stock head, stock block. Removed all emmisions. ISR headers and catback. ISR fpr. lightweight flywheel.
for 180hp - 200hp, you're probably looking at ITBs, 370cc injectors, standalone ecu. it's hard to make that power na. however you can get that easy with like 5psi of boost on a stock block ka.
Ok thnx man!
is this an aeromotive fpr rebadged?
nope, it's a ISR fpr, designed just like the aeromotive.
looks like u need to replace the motor mounts soon
Yea I traded my nismos for a front a brake swap so I'm on stock mounts for now :/
O ok
+Project Garage get ISR solid mounts I love mine.
+Colby Taylor I have a set in stock, maybe I'll try em...
Project Garage I love mine.. be sure too tighten them really good. Other wise they can come lose. Had that problem its been 10k miles since i installed them and they just came lose. just tightened them after applying blue loctite on the bolts haven't had issues since.
make that video on adjusting your fuel
comin at you tomorrow bro!
You don't use Teflon bud u use thread sealant for oils and fuel
why no new videos?! da fak
you don't need to remove the stock fpr plumb in the fuel return line easy
This is my problem right now can you give me more info???
Thanks for the video, do you know what the fuel pressure should be on a BMW E34 525i with an Alpine turbo.
I have a 2002 Pontiac grand am gt1 3.4L v6 do I need to get those but it's all stock w/ CAI I ain't gonna lie
Teflon tape doesn't work for fuel
Make sure u use wd40 for the seals just a little
I need one for my bmw
so you need an "in tank" fuel pump to use a regulater?
Teflon Tape . 😂👍
Can you send a couple of them to India via USPS priority shipping? I can pay for shipping. What's you email id?
not a bad video. but Google how to apply PTFE tape correctly and it will make life easier for you man.
I'm confused what
yo
no teflon!!!
Stopped watching after you plugged off the other side which is the outlet to go to the fuel rail.
Islamic State Racing
you really want to be that guy?
you're a fucking tool
he looks more Trini/ Guyanese
Lmaooo they changed that shit but it didn’t work 😂
yo
yo