Fantastic coverage of the topic as usual. My favorite mechanical/boating channel. I bought my new to me 04 Keywest 2300 a few years ago and first long trip out I decided to try and run on 1 battery and was going to switch for the ride back. On the way back I saw it was running 16+ volts and was cooking the battery, when I switched it to both it seemed like the larger bank size brought it back closer to 15 volts. It has a 07 F200 on it. Did some further testing and the regulator/rectifier was no good. Also reading the manual and following the wiring diagram I found a diode for the injector driver that was inline with the system was failing the test. 700$ in new parts later and it was charging like it should. Also I saw the auxiliary battery wire under the cowl and ordered the wire that plugged into it and that goes to my “house” battery now. I switched the perko 1/2/both switch for a battery Off/on switch with emergency combiner. And it charges the starting battery after start till full then you can see the house battery voltage start charging at 14.4/14.6. Curious if that era charging system can even charge lithium to its full potential or what would it need for the system to work properly. Or if it’s even worth messing with.
The Yamaha 90 2 stroke have virtually no regulation and when you use an agm style battery you get voltage creep. I ended up replacing the original rect/reg with mosfet style of rectifier regulator. Works perfectly. 14.1V instead of 16 or 17V. You do have to filter the reg output and attenuate the tach sensing cable as the mosfet system can generate weird tach readings from noise.
Great video ! I had a Johnson 88 that was forever going through rectifier regulator. Replaced like 4 times. The tach would start bouncing up and down. Got rid of it.
Thanks for the explanation. My stator crapped out on me while out fishing, and the rectifier completely died on me 100m before the boat ramp. We limped home on one cylinder using an ungodly amount of fuel.
Excellent explanation. The stator working always puzzled me, thou I know what the rectifier-regulator does and even installed these to the outboards that don't have them as oem. Also, a boat mechanic once told me that the most simple way to "regulate" the voltage of a stator-regulator sysytem is to conncet large lead acid battery to it, like 100 a/h. It will "smooth out" the voltage output to 12-13 volts since the regulator rarely provides more than 5 amps so you can connect the electronics safely. It's also not the battery you should worry about in stator-regulator system, but the electronics being connected, because those 28 volts will fry the stereo or a depth sounder pretty quickly. As for "killing" the batteries - used Trojan/Minnkota 100 amps as both starting and "house" batteries, usually getting 7-8 years of reliable starting and service from them.
You should do a video mocking up 2 batteries and how to wire it accordingly so it doesn't cook out batteries, that would awesome, you seem very knowledgeable on the topic. Thanks for the great content thus far
One bit of information you didn't include. An alternator regulates by controlling field voltage (IE the intensity of the electro magnet which is the rotor windings). In this way an alternator is far more efficient. A permanent magnet stator design like in traditional outboards or motorcycles uses a shunt which shunts the excessive power to ground as there is no field voltage to control, the magnets are permanent NOT electro magnets which can be controlled via voltage. A permanent magnet stator design is always producing the same amount of electrical power per a given RPM and the rectifier/regulator/shunt has to offload the excessive power. An alternator can produce the required power for a set regulator voltage using the rotor field voltage producing less power when needed and incurring less drag on the engine.
As always, great info and explanation. I was hoping there would be more information in regards to using Lithium batteries on a boat. I always see several threads/conversations about how outboard engines can kill a Lithium battery and some even talk about DC to DC charging to get around this issue, but nobody has explained it in an easy to understand method.
Kind of a hard topic, depends on how dinged up we are talking, some can be bent back and be ok, but others would have to be welded and reshaped and depending on the type of prop and the value, might be worth just replacing :) Also, if too miss shaped it will create vibrations and even to the point of wearing out prop shaft seals and potentially causing damage because the prop is un balanced
Hi Aaron, can you explain if the alternator on a mercury four stroke 300hp can be connected to sense different battery banks with a swappable bank setup (i.e. each battery bank is swappable and isolated manually by a main switch - no ACR or battery isolator). Does the alternator sense the voltage and thus regulate output A. via the clean power harness permanently connected to bank 1 or B. via the battery cables which are swappable between banks 1 and 2? I am asking because I am not sure if battery bank 2 is actually being sensed or charged. Thanks Michael
Ummm yes but no lol yes, if you have a single 300 on a battery switch with 2 batteries and you swap it to battery one, it will sense and charge that battery, if you swap the switch to battery two, it will sense and charge battery two. Nothing to do with the clean power, just you have to have clean power and the batteries grounds have to be connected
CAn you do a video explaining how a two stoke can mix oil on its own compared to a two stroke in which you have to mix yourself? Can u also explain why that doesn’t need an oil change so to speak.
I have one of those 90 Yamaha 2 strokes. Ran like a top today. Absolutely thumping along. That said, it's all of a sudden been stubborn to crank after the 1st run of the morning. Used to fire right up, not i have to turn it over. Seems like it's flooding. I did just replace the fuel water separator, inline cup & filter, and replaced the top-side fuel lines & bulb. Not sure why it would all of a sudden be flooding...if that's what it really is...or what i can do about it. Maybe this is normal & it was kinda clogged up before? It is a new to me motor about a year ago.
Try pushing in on the key when you start it, like turn it to the right to start the engine, but as you turn it, push in on it which is supposed to activate the start enrichner and make it easier to start
Lithium batteries are great, but I don't see the reason anyone wants to use one for a starting battery with the BMS issues that can turn it off at any time and destroy the alternator/stator
Yup. Especially when the main benefits of lithium (more capacity/deeper drain) don't matter for a starting battery that *should* be getting charged from the alternator constantly. I guess there's weight savings but if you have lithiums for "everything else" your starting battery can be much smaller, so you're not saving that much weight anyways.
@@josephkerking8638 Exactly!! It's a lot more expensive, has an internal BMS that can wreak havoc and for what? To crank the engine a tiny bit faster? If it was a small boat with a single battery, I could see wanting to save some weight. But I have a 26' center console with twin outboards. The weight of a battery is not going to affect me one way or the other
I've been using a lithium cranking battery for starting and a regular lithium for my house battery for 2 seasons now and something would have to go drastically wrong to shut off the battery. And then the battery is the least of your worries. Now if you crank off a non cranking battery you may have an issue but even that is highly doubtful. I wouldn't run them off any older engine but the newer ones why wouldn't you. Acid can't compete in any way whatsoever.
I have a 2005 Yamaha 90 2S and have two batteries one for cranking, the other for the house and I've run my Perko switch in all and drained my batteries becase I forgot to change it to 2. Now I'm thinking of getting a Blue Stream systems ACR. In November I'm going to buy a new Yamaha 90. Will the ACR void the new Yamaha warranty?
I've got a 2000 Johnson 25 that I saw hit 16.1 v the other day at WOT. Currently trying to find out if I even have a rectifier, or if it's normal. I've never displayed voltage on my fish finder before so I have no history Edit to that: I learned my outboard only has a rectifier, not a regulator/ rectifier so has no voltage control, just converts Ac to Dc. Battery type is apparently huge deal with these due to this. I think I'll get a small open cell lead acid to replace my SLA I'm currently using. Hopefully my multiple edits will help someone else too
Arron this is Ivan Viera Puerto Rican living in Austin Texas. Look I send you a message talking about my boat tilt and trim problem . I put the wrong oil on the reservoir on my boat . I took out the oil from the small 2 pin but I didn’t took it from the long tilt pin. I fill the reservoir and took the air out but the long one I didn’t.My question is if I fill the reservoir and took the air out. Do you think the long tilt pin would be full. Please let me know what should I do. And should I open the sister on the long tilt pin and put oil. Please can you advise me what to do? My engine is a 2 Stroke 150 hp 6 cilinder 150 TXRZ
Change the solenoid. Most of the more modern outboards use minuscule solenoids which will fail over time. You’ll hear them clicking, but nothing happens? It’s no longer making contact inside the solenoid to accept the high current a starter motor requires. Yamaha and others don’t even call them solenoids anymore, and refer to them as relays. Technically speaking, both are one and the same as they both due the same thing, using a small amount of current to activate a pathway for a higher source of current to pass. Mercs and Yamahas are famous for failing with age. They won’t SOUND bad, but trust me, they’re shot. Chances are pretty good you didn’t need a starter change, just a solenoid/relay change.
I had a runaway starter that would not disengage when the engine started. I panicked and shut off the battery switch frying my rectifier/regulator. I went to five boat shops in the keys. No one had one for a 1997 Force outboard. The 6th parts guy took the time to run down 4 superceded part numbers and $110 later I was on the way. So don’t shut your switch off without a shunt switch.
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 ธันวาคม 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dNTiBBthKgQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic coverage of the topic as usual. My favorite mechanical/boating channel. I bought my new to me 04 Keywest 2300 a few years ago and first long trip out I decided to try and run on 1 battery and was going to switch for the ride back. On the way back I saw it was running 16+ volts and was cooking the battery, when I switched it to both it seemed like the larger bank size brought it back closer to 15 volts. It has a 07 F200 on it. Did some further testing and the regulator/rectifier was no good. Also reading the manual and following the wiring diagram I found a diode for the injector driver that was inline with the system was failing the test. 700$ in new parts later and it was charging like it should. Also I saw the auxiliary battery wire under the cowl and ordered the wire that plugged into it and that goes to my “house” battery now. I switched the perko 1/2/both switch for a battery Off/on switch with emergency combiner. And it charges the starting battery after start till full then you can see the house battery voltage start charging at 14.4/14.6. Curious if that era charging system can even charge lithium to its full potential or what would it need for the system to work properly. Or if it’s even worth messing with.
Excellent job of explaining the engine's charging system. Learned a lot
The Yamaha 90 2 stroke have virtually no regulation and when you use an agm style battery you get voltage creep.
I ended up replacing the original rect/reg with mosfet style of rectifier regulator. Works perfectly. 14.1V instead of 16 or 17V. You do have to filter the reg output and attenuate the tach sensing cable as the mosfet system can generate weird tach readings from noise.
Great video ! I had a Johnson 88 that was forever going through rectifier regulator. Replaced like 4 times. The tach would start bouncing up and down. Got rid of it.
Thanks for the explanation. My stator crapped out on me while out fishing, and the rectifier completely died on me 100m before the boat ramp. We limped home on one cylinder using an ungodly amount of fuel.
Excellent explanation. The stator working always puzzled me, thou I know what the rectifier-regulator does and even installed these to the outboards that don't have them as oem. Also, a boat mechanic once told me that the most simple way to "regulate" the voltage of a stator-regulator sysytem is to conncet large lead acid battery to it, like 100 a/h. It will "smooth out" the voltage output to 12-13 volts since the regulator rarely provides more than 5 amps so you can connect the electronics safely. It's also not the battery you should worry about in stator-regulator system, but the electronics being connected, because those 28 volts will fry the stereo or a depth sounder pretty quickly. As for "killing" the batteries - used Trojan/Minnkota 100 amps as both starting and "house" batteries, usually getting 7-8 years of reliable starting and service from them.
You should do a video mocking up 2 batteries and how to wire it accordingly so it doesn't cook out batteries, that would awesome, you seem very knowledgeable on the topic. Thanks for the great content thus far
One bit of information you didn't include. An alternator regulates by controlling field voltage (IE the intensity of the electro magnet which is the rotor windings). In this way an alternator is far more efficient. A permanent magnet stator design like in traditional outboards or motorcycles uses a shunt which shunts the excessive power to ground as there is no field voltage to control, the magnets are permanent NOT electro magnets which can be controlled via voltage. A permanent magnet stator design is always producing the same amount of electrical power per a given RPM and the rectifier/regulator/shunt has to offload the excessive power. An alternator can produce the required power for a set regulator voltage using the rotor field voltage producing less power when needed and incurring less drag on the engine.
MY Tohatsu 20 will read 15.2v some times according to my fish finder. Hopefully its fine.
Thank you for this.
As always, great info and explanation. I was hoping there would be more information in regards to using Lithium batteries on a boat. I always see several threads/conversations about how outboard engines can kill a Lithium battery and some even talk about DC to DC charging to get around this issue, but nobody has explained it in an easy to understand method.
Hey aaron. How about fixing a dinged up prop? Not much info on props. But i have seen all your prop videos.
Kind of a hard topic, depends on how dinged up we are talking, some can be bent back and be ok, but others would have to be welded and reshaped and depending on the type of prop and the value, might be worth just replacing :) Also, if too miss shaped it will create vibrations and even to the point of wearing out prop shaft seals and potentially causing damage because the prop is un balanced
Hi Aaron, can you explain if the alternator on a mercury four stroke 300hp can be connected to sense different battery banks with a swappable bank setup (i.e. each battery bank is swappable and isolated manually by a main switch - no ACR or battery isolator). Does the alternator sense the voltage and thus regulate output A. via the clean power harness permanently connected to bank 1 or B. via the battery cables which are swappable between banks 1 and 2? I am asking because I am not sure if battery bank 2 is actually being sensed or charged. Thanks Michael
Ummm yes but no lol yes, if you have a single 300 on a battery switch with 2 batteries and you swap it to battery one, it will sense and charge that battery, if you swap the switch to battery two, it will sense and charge battery two. Nothing to do with the clean power, just you have to have clean power and the batteries grounds have to be connected
CAn you do a video explaining how a two stoke can mix oil on its own compared to a two stroke in which you have to mix yourself? Can u also explain why that doesn’t need an oil change so to speak.
th-cam.com/video/waX1WimhCtU/w-d-xo.html
I have one of those 90 Yamaha 2 strokes. Ran like a top today. Absolutely thumping along. That said, it's all of a sudden been stubborn to crank after the 1st run of the morning. Used to fire right up, not i have to turn it over.
Seems like it's flooding. I did just replace the fuel water separator, inline cup & filter, and replaced the top-side fuel lines & bulb. Not sure why it would all of a sudden be flooding...if that's what it really is...or what i can do about it. Maybe this is normal & it was kinda clogged up before? It is a new to me motor about a year ago.
Try pushing in on the key when you start it, like turn it to the right to start the engine, but as you turn it, push in on it which is supposed to activate the start enrichner and make it easier to start
Lithium batteries are great, but I don't see the reason anyone wants to use one for a starting battery with the BMS issues that can turn it off at any time and destroy the alternator/stator
Lithium batteries have evolved past this.
@@tourmaline7.3 I'll stick to AGMs or lead acid for starting applications. Lithiums for deep cycling are much better since they can drain much lower
Yup. Especially when the main benefits of lithium (more capacity/deeper drain) don't matter for a starting battery that *should* be getting charged from the alternator constantly. I guess there's weight savings but if you have lithiums for "everything else" your starting battery can be much smaller, so you're not saving that much weight anyways.
@@josephkerking8638 Exactly!! It's a lot more expensive, has an internal BMS that can wreak havoc and for what? To crank the engine a tiny bit faster? If it was a small boat with a single battery, I could see wanting to save some weight. But I have a 26' center console with twin outboards. The weight of a battery is not going to affect me one way or the other
I've been using a lithium cranking battery for starting and a regular lithium for my house battery for 2 seasons now and something would have to go drastically wrong to shut off the battery. And then the battery is the least of your worries. Now if you crank off a non cranking battery you may have an issue but even that is highly doubtful. I wouldn't run them off any older engine but the newer ones why wouldn't you. Acid can't compete in any way whatsoever.
I have a 2005 Yamaha 90 2S and have two batteries one for cranking, the other for the house and I've run my Perko switch in all and drained my batteries becase I forgot to change it to 2. Now I'm thinking of getting a Blue Stream systems ACR. In November I'm going to buy a new Yamaha 90. Will the ACR void the new Yamaha warranty?
No it shouldn't
I've got a 2000 Johnson 25 that I saw hit 16.1 v the other day at WOT. Currently trying to find out if I even have a rectifier, or if it's normal. I've never displayed voltage on my fish finder before so I have no history
Edit to that: I learned my outboard only has a rectifier, not a regulator/ rectifier so has no voltage control, just converts Ac to Dc. Battery type is apparently huge deal with these due to this. I think I'll get a small open cell lead acid to replace my SLA I'm currently using. Hopefully my multiple edits will help someone else too
Arron this is Ivan Viera Puerto Rican living in Austin Texas. Look I send you a message talking about my boat tilt and trim problem . I put the wrong oil on the reservoir on my boat . I took out the oil from the small 2 pin but I didn’t took it from the long tilt pin. I fill the reservoir and took the air out but the long one I didn’t.My question is if I fill the reservoir and took the air out. Do you think the long tilt pin would be full. Please let me know what should I do. And should I open the sister on the long tilt pin and put oil. Please can you advise me what to do? My engine is a 2 Stroke 150 hp 6 cilinder 150 TXRZ
You might be fine, it'll be mixed, hopefully you figured this out, but you can mix it and then just suck it out again if need be
What if my starter spins but doesn't engage the wheel, and my solenoid just clicks? Used battery with charger connected to battery. New starter.
Change the solenoid. Most of the more modern outboards use minuscule solenoids which will fail over time. You’ll hear them clicking, but nothing happens? It’s no longer making contact inside the solenoid to accept the high current a starter motor requires. Yamaha and others don’t even call them solenoids anymore, and refer to them as relays. Technically speaking, both are one and the same as they both due the same thing, using a small amount of current to activate a pathway for a higher source of current to pass. Mercs and Yamahas are famous for failing with age. They won’t SOUND bad, but trust me, they’re shot. Chances are pretty good you didn’t need a starter change, just a solenoid/relay change.
Hope you figured this out, but yeah, I'd be looking at that solenoid, or the wires that are between the engine and the battery
Excellent
Always use a starter battery never a deep sell
Do not use lithium ion batteries for engine
I had a runaway starter that would not disengage when the engine started. I panicked and shut off the battery switch frying my rectifier/regulator. I went to five boat shops in the keys. No one had one for a 1997 Force outboard. The 6th parts guy took the time to run down 4 superceded part numbers and $110 later I was on the way. So don’t shut your switch off without a shunt switch.
👌👌👌
So cringe-worthy watching a fellow try to make a YT video on a subject he understands so poorly..."this goes into that which goes into this..." LOL!