I recommend an A09 portable jump starter 500A DBpower, this charger is the size of a phone and is good for 1000 jumps. It charges with a phone cord. Never had to use on the boat, but started a friend's car at launch. Always keep on boat and charge 1 per season. Love your videos, thanks
Probably should include details about how to manage battery charging from the engine in any future videos on this subject. A short discussion on off-season charging would top it off nicely.
We had an old school “off/1/2/both” switch on our 25 cruiser. I’d frequently forget to switch it when we’re at anchor. My greatest fear was drawing down BOTH batteries while at some remote anchorage and not realizing it soon enough. I installed a automatic charging relay with a new switch and that totally alleviated the worry.
I have what you mentioned at the end. Two starting batteries with a 1 and 2 position switch. Then a separate trolling motor battery. All are charged by a single charger in the battery compartment. I towed someone back to the ramp recently and was thankful that will never happen to me because of a dead battery.
I had the OFF/1/2/BOTH switch for the longest time, and using only 2 batteries, and I would have to go to the switch and flip it back n forth to have my house running, and the start battery disabled, however, sometimes I'd forget to do that.... now, after watching more youtube videos, I am now running 1 START batt. and 2 HOUSE batts. and installed an OFF-ON-COMBINE switch.... I now have peace of mind knowing that I will always have a battery, that's fully charged, and not endlessly fussing with the battery switch!
Good video , we got a boat with 2 batteries and the switcher 1 , 2 and both , but the old owner has attached 2 jumper starters at the side of the batterys , and always let it charging the jumpers, was wondering when i should do that , i think that way jumper was in overkill.
In the UK, many canal craft will have the last type. What this video did not mention is charging the batteries. Normally it would be wise to switch to ' both' to charge the starter and leisure battery bank simultaneously.
@@boatinglessonsIn the case where the two batteries are identical, for many years I have been using Battery 1 on odd dates and Battery 2 on even dates. If you always run on Both, you will not know when one battery has failed. I have had two cases aboard small vessels where the operators always use Both. I have asked them to try my method of using only one and the engine would not start. Proving the selected battery had failed.
If I'm not mistaken, I will stand corrected if wrong, some smaller engines won't have the power to charge both batteries at the same time or put a strain on the charging system (talking OB), use # 1 bat going, switch to # 2 hanging out & coming back, depending switch back to # 1 half way home, always have a start boost box, tried walking on water, no bueno !
Great video and new to channel! Have you done videos on larger yachts about batteries, switches, inverters etc? That would be great if you feel it a good video!
It’s always about what you DON’T know that can get you! I have an OFF/1/2/BOTH switch and have no clue about whether one is for starting the motor or the other for my two chart plotters, which take a lot of power to run. Newer units do pull a lot of power. I have always run on BOTH and turned to OFF when docked. Now I’m not sure what’s going on. I have two trolling motor batteries that are independently on a charger under the console. I have always thought 1 and 2 are charged by the motor’s alternator. But I don’t actually know. I take a portable battery jump starter with me in case for whatever reason the starter battery is dead. What is the best way to find out what’s going on back there?!? My trolling motor batteries are GTG. I have a sensor on the motor that tells me my battery levels. But nothing like that on my two boat batteries. Do I need to ask my marina when I do yearly maintenance or is there a way with current probes that I can find out for myself? Basically, is there a way for me to test my system while out of the water to find out what’s going on back there? Thanks! 😅
Alternator charging can be switched to 1, to charge the starter, or 2 to charge the leisure bank, but easiest to switch to 'both' as soon as, or before, the engine is started. Once the engine stops, just switch to '2'.
I have an 18 foot deep v has a battery switch and a master power switch on the dash. Would just turning off the master switch on the dash be good or turn off the battery switch itself?
Cheers, excellent content. Question though, I have the traditional 1/1+2, and the previous owner always just left it on 1 (Start Battery) when connected to shore power at the dock. If I leave it off, can it still charge the batteries? through the onboard charger?
My boat has a battery switch. But the motor and tilt/trim motor is bypassing the switch. Most likely so that noone kicks and turns off the power while coasting. But i heard that Evinrude motors will run even if the battery is disconnected. Wouldn't it be better to have an extra switch for the motor then? Also i have a 20ft boat with 115hp motor. Would it be wise to get an extra battery that is always connected to the motor (exclusively) than running everything from the same battery?
I've never been good with the electronics, my question is, with the old styler, 1/2/both switch will the boat recharge both when you're on just one of the batteries or do you need it on both to recharge both?
I guess it depends on the switch. My manual states to never run it on both. it says only turn it to both if one of the batteries is dead to start your motor. which doesn’t make sense to me because why wouldn’t I just switch it all the way to the other battery? But it does state it will not charge both batteries when the setting is on both. I have to either have it on one or two. which is also a pain because I have to remember to switch it over so both batteries are getting charged. Kind of a dumb set up.
I have 2 batteries with the battery #1, battery #2, both or off selection switch and always use one battery to go and the other battery to return or one battery one day and the second battery next day. This way keeps both batteries charge and always keep one battery ready in case I needed. I will not recommend using both batteries all the time. Both batteries will be dead if a problem shows up. Use only one battery at the time, keeping the second battery ready as spare when needed.
I run a 3 position switch on my center console, I run the boat in position 1 which uses a deep cycle battery for my electronics and a separate starting battery for my motor, my problem is, I just noticed im not getting any power to the motor in position 1, no crank, it is a brand new battery, but when I turn the switch to "Both" im able to start and everything runs normal, all my terminals { in view, I haven't dug deeper yet} are clean with no corrosion, where do u suggest I start to get to the bottom of this problem, is it possible the 3 Pos switch went bad??
I have an on/off/1/2/both switch on my 2001 Searay. If I use the "1" position to start the engine and leave it on "1" when running, will both batteries charge while cruising?
@@boatinglessons I have a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. I was not sure I should use both to start the engine. Thank you for any thoughts you have.
Question. i have a 2 year old boat that has a trickle charger installed by the manufacture (Monterey). Last season I took the batteries off the boat and stored inside on a trickle charger. This year I kept them on the boat and have the trickle charger on that was installed by Monterey. Is that ok to do?? any feedback would be appreciated?
I have a switch with 1,2 then both. I usually run the boat down the lake with both selected so the alternator charges both. Then if I cove out I’ll select one or two when stereo is on. Is that ok?
When you cove out you don’t want select just 1 or 2, you want to select the house battery which should be 2. You always want your starting battery to not have any draws
i have a question unrelated to this video but boat related. so i have a older boat i bought a few months ago. its been working good except to start it wheni put it in neutral ive always had to kind of push it forward in the lock position for it to register it to start up. but the other day my trim down was stuck when i pulled to the ramp to get off water. which was wierd so i was moving the throttle back and forth through forward and reverse and it stopped it but then when i went to start it nothing. so then i would press the button to move out of neutral and just barely push it forward and then it turns over. i had to get out today to get my trotlines up.. i had to start it like that most the day but at the end it took 5 minutes for me to get it to finally activate.. so what is wrong with it. and how to fix. lol. i dont know much about boats. sadly. its one of those throttles where you put the key in it also. but not sure really what is the problem.. im guess its not registering it in the correct position in neutral so it wont turn over. but everything else is fine. except every so often as i go to put it in revers it seems to get stiff till i put it all the way in full reverse then back into neutral. not sure if that has anything to do with it also. thanks for your time.
One important thing is never switch to off or switch pass off when the engine is running. You will blow alternator diodes. Also if you have a fridge with food, you will probably leave the switch to house (2 in your example) when you leave the boat.
Find your leak & fix it, if it's from rain, cover boat best you can, or maybe bat. old & weak, check boat more often if possible ? there are ways for everything !
@@Roger-gm9tl Nah there wasn’t a leak. It just ran all the time, even with no water. I have since gotten it repaired, but my boat always gets trailered with the plug removed and boat covered anyways.
The 1-2-Both switch is a relic of a bygone era, and has no place in any boat today. It's just too easy for boaters to set it wrongly and end up with a dead starting battery. There are much better solutions today which are literally fool-proof.
Sometimes depending on to much technology can get you in worse trouble than plain good old common sense, maintenance, all boaters should have a little basic know how for simple things unless they've learned how to walk on water !
Grade: F. You took a very important mistake, batteries in parallel, and made it confusing. 7 minutes of details without explaining the fundamentals. No simple diagrams. In 7 minutes, you could also have explained solar panels and multiple batteries: Separate chargers into separate batteries into separate loads. Oh, never wire batteries in parallel. Small differences in their voltages make them fight each other. You could have called it " Boat Battery Switches Not Explained".
Have you ever been stranded by a dead battery? Any other tips/tricks you know of for our followers?
I recommend an A09 portable jump starter 500A DBpower, this charger is the size of a phone and is good for 1000 jumps. It charges with a phone cord. Never had to use on the boat, but started a friend's car at launch. Always keep on boat and charge 1 per season.
Love your videos, thanks
This will also charge phones , tablets, and has a flashlight.
Probably should include details about how to manage battery charging from the engine in any future videos on this subject. A short discussion on off-season charging would top it off nicely.
We do our boating on the Upper Niagara River so I took that opening statement rather seriously! Lol
LOL, maybe I used an example that was too cliche ;-)
We had an old school “off/1/2/both” switch on our 25 cruiser. I’d frequently forget to switch it when we’re at anchor. My greatest fear was drawing down BOTH batteries while at some remote anchorage and not realizing it soon enough. I installed a automatic charging relay with a new switch and that totally alleviated the worry.
I have what you mentioned at the end. Two starting batteries with a 1 and 2 position switch. Then a separate trolling motor battery. All are charged by a single charger in the battery compartment. I towed someone back to the ramp recently and was thankful that will never happen to me because of a dead battery.
I always have a portable jump pack with me they are very small and put out a lot of power
Good info Thanks new boat owner
I had the OFF/1/2/BOTH switch for the longest time, and using only 2 batteries, and I would have to go to the switch and flip it back n forth to have my house running, and the start battery disabled, however, sometimes I'd forget to do that.... now, after watching more youtube videos, I am now running 1 START batt. and 2 HOUSE batts. and installed an OFF-ON-COMBINE switch....
I now have peace of mind knowing that I will always have a battery, that's fully charged, and not endlessly fussing with the battery switch!
Great videos, especially to new boaters like myself. I’m definitely liking and subscribing. Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks Sean
My pleasure!
is it ok to start and run the engine on both and switch to 2 if I'm anchored and want to listen to music?
Good video , we got a boat with 2 batteries and the switcher 1 , 2 and both , but the old owner has attached 2 jumper starters at the side of the batterys , and always let it charging the jumpers, was wondering when i should do that , i think that way jumper was in overkill.
In the UK, many canal craft will have the last type. What this video did not mention is charging the batteries. Normally it would be wise to switch to ' both' to charge the starter and leisure battery bank simultaneously.
Yes and I agree, good point
@@boatinglessonsIn the case where the two batteries are identical, for many years I have been using Battery 1 on odd dates and Battery 2 on even dates. If you always run on Both, you will not know when one battery has failed. I have had two cases aboard small vessels where the operators always use Both. I have asked them to try my method of using only one and the engine would not start. Proving the selected battery had failed.
If I'm not mistaken, I will stand corrected if wrong, some smaller engines won't have the power to charge both batteries at the same time or put a strain on the charging system (talking OB), use # 1 bat going, switch to # 2 hanging out & coming back, depending switch back to # 1 half way home, always have a start boost box, tried walking on water, no bueno !
floating over Niagara Falls. that is funny! great video. Thanks!
We think we’re pretty funny ;-)
My boat has 3 independent battery switches for 2 batteries. A house battery switch, an engine battery switch and a paralell switch to combine them
can the battery be charged on an outboerd motor. thank for the video
Can you leave the switch in 1+2 when under way to constantly charge both batteries?
Love your videos, do you have one about annodized alu.inum vs powder coat on boat ttops
Great video and new to channel! Have you done videos on larger yachts about batteries, switches, inverters etc? That would be great if you feel it a good video!
Thank you . I have the old system 1-2- both . So is my alternator always charging both batteries even if I’m cruising on battery 1 ??
Not unless it is on the both position
If battery switch is isolated to individual battery while underway does that mean the other battery is not charging?
It’s always about what you DON’T know that can get you! I have an OFF/1/2/BOTH switch and have no clue about whether one is for starting the motor or the other for my two chart plotters, which take a lot of power to run. Newer units do pull a lot of power. I have always run on BOTH and turned to OFF when docked. Now I’m not sure what’s going on. I have two trolling motor batteries that are independently on a charger under the console. I have always thought 1 and 2 are charged by the motor’s alternator. But I don’t actually know. I take a portable battery jump starter with me in case for whatever reason the starter battery is dead. What is the best way to find out what’s going on back there?!? My trolling motor batteries are GTG. I have a sensor on the motor that tells me my battery levels. But nothing like that on my two boat batteries. Do I need to ask my marina when I do yearly maintenance or is there a way with current probes that I can find out for myself? Basically, is there a way for me to test my system while out of the water to find out what’s going on back there? Thanks! 😅
Alternator charging can be switched to 1, to charge the starter, or 2 to charge the leisure bank, but easiest to switch to 'both' as soon as, or before, the engine is started. Once the engine stops, just switch to '2'.
Do recommend the "OFF" position for charging a two-battery system.
If it's off, it won't charge. Best to switch to both when running the engine.
Thanks, @@ratwest
I have an 18 foot deep v has a battery switch and a master power switch on the dash. Would just turning off the master switch on the dash be good or turn off the battery switch itself?
I have a Bluesea 3 pole switch. The 2 red positives (from the 2 batteries) go to the #1 and #2 poles. What goes to the öutput" pole?
Thanks Sean…….great video ! 👍
I appreciate that Tom!
Cheers, excellent content. Question though, I have the traditional 1/1+2, and the previous owner always just left it on 1 (Start Battery) when connected to shore power at the dock. If I leave it off, can it still charge the batteries? through the onboard charger?
Normally the chargers are wired directly to the battery, independent of the switch. It should not matter the position of the switch.
That was fast, and unexpected, thank you :)
@@boatinglessons
My boat has a battery switch. But the motor and tilt/trim motor is bypassing the switch. Most likely so that noone kicks and turns off the power while coasting. But i heard that Evinrude motors will run even if the battery is disconnected. Wouldn't it be better to have an extra switch for the motor then? Also i have a 20ft boat with 115hp motor. Would it be wise to get an extra battery that is always connected to the motor (exclusively) than running everything from the same battery?
I've never been good with the electronics, my question is, with the old styler, 1/2/both switch will the boat recharge both when you're on just one of the batteries or do you need it on both to recharge both?
I wanna know the answer to this also
yeah so whats the name of each battery swithes that you were talking about?
Thank you so much. If I run battery #1 only will battery number 2 charge itself or do I need to run number 2 for it to charge
depends on the switch. If its an older style "dumb" switch, no it won't charge the #2 if the switch is set to #1.
Peter is correct, each switch and wiring is different. If you are in doubt, run it on "both" and it will charge them both.
I guess it depends on the switch. My manual states to never run it on both. it says only turn it to both if one of the batteries is dead to start your motor. which doesn’t make sense to me because why wouldn’t I just switch it all the way to the other battery? But it does state it will not charge both batteries when the setting is on both. I have to either have it on one or two. which is also a pain because I have to remember to switch it over so both batteries are getting charged. Kind of a dumb set up.
can both batteries be high crank batteries? We replaced one of our batteries and the accessories do not work when the engine is running.
I have 2 batteries with the battery #1, battery #2, both or off selection switch and always use one battery to go and the other battery to return or one battery one day and the second battery next day. This way keeps both batteries charge and always keep one battery ready in case I needed. I will not recommend using both batteries all the time. Both batteries will be dead if a problem shows up. Use only one battery at the time, keeping the second battery ready as spare when needed.
Do you want older switch set to both so to charge both while running?
Yes, unless you know one side is fully charged, just run the engine with the switch on both.
I run a 3 position switch on my center console, I run the boat in position 1 which uses a deep cycle battery for my electronics and a separate starting battery for my motor, my problem is, I just noticed im not getting any power to the motor in position 1, no crank, it is a brand new battery, but when I turn the switch to "Both" im able to start and everything runs normal, all my terminals { in view, I haven't dug deeper yet} are clean with no corrosion, where do u suggest I start to get to the bottom of this problem, is it possible the 3 Pos switch went bad??
I have an on/off/1/2/both switch on my 2001 Searay. If I use the "1" position to start the engine and leave it on "1" when running, will both batteries charge while cruising?
Not likely, although boats are wired in many ways, and we wouldn’t know for sure. My expectation would be no it won’t.
@@boatinglessons Thank you. I think I would need to switch to both after cranking the engine, and hope that switching doesn't affect the alternator.
@@bryincda I would not switch it once the engine is running. Any reason not to start it on "both"?
@@boatinglessons I have a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. I was not sure I should use both to start the engine. Thank you for any thoughts you have.
Question. i have a 2 year old boat that has a trickle charger installed by the manufacture (Monterey). Last season I took the batteries off the boat and stored inside on a trickle charger. This year I kept them on the boat and have the trickle charger on that was installed by Monterey. Is that ok to do?? any feedback would be appreciated?
Do you leave the trickle charge on all winter or just turn it on for a few hours on certain intervals?
I have a switch with 1,2 then both. I usually run the boat down the lake with both selected so the alternator charges both. Then if I cove out I’ll select one or two when stereo is on. Is that ok?
Yes, that makes sense to us.
When you cove out you don’t want select just 1 or 2, you want to select the house battery which should be 2. You always want your starting battery to not have any draws
One more thought, I believe you can't charge different types of batteries at the same time,
acid & AGM, etc. am I correct ?
i have a question unrelated to this video but boat related. so i have a older boat i bought a few months ago. its been working good except to start it wheni put it in neutral ive always had to kind of push it forward in the lock position for it to register it to start up. but the other day my trim down was stuck when i pulled to the ramp to get off water. which was wierd so i was moving the throttle back and forth through forward and reverse and it stopped it but then when i went to start it nothing. so then i would press the button to move out of neutral and just barely push it forward and then it turns over. i had to get out today to get my trotlines up.. i had to start it like that most the day but at the end it took 5 minutes for me to get it to finally activate.. so what is wrong with it. and how to fix. lol. i dont know much about boats. sadly. its one of those throttles where you put the key in it also. but not sure really what is the problem.. im guess its not registering it in the correct position in neutral so it wont turn over. but everything else is fine. except every so often as i go to put it in revers it seems to get stiff till i put it all the way in full reverse then back into neutral. not sure if that has anything to do with it also. thanks for your time.
I have a 1/2/both switch but want to remove one battery from the system. How can I bypass the switch and just use one battery?
Disconnect the switch totally and hook wires to your battery
One important thing is never switch to off or switch pass off when the engine is running. You will blow alternator diodes. Also if you have a fridge with food, you will probably leave the switch to house (2 in your example) when you leave the boat.
Yes, you are correct. Any potential fluctuation in voltage is to be avoided at all costs
Do you connect this battery switch to the positive or negative cable ?
Hi Mitch, the positive ones.
Some companies suggest using the ground
You didn’t mention the two pole battery switch
can somebody recommend a "intelligent" battery switch to me?
Blue sea systems mini Add-A-Battery /alternators up to 65A, for most outboards $150
This is the intelligent switch on video as well as the one I have on my boat. It saved my butt last July , definitely worth the price
WHATS WRONG WHEN I TURN MY SWITHCH TO OFF , MY BOAT STILL STARTS , TROUBLE SHOOT THAT FOR ME PLEASE
Bad switch or battery cable bypassing switch.
My automatic bilge pump drains my battery 😭😭😭
yes or your boat sinks. Better a dead battery than a sunk boat
@@mrwrapper no cause I take the plug out. Fixed it btw
Find your leak & fix it, if it's from rain, cover boat best you can, or maybe bat. old & weak, check boat more often if possible ? there are ways for everything !
@@Roger-gm9tl Nah there wasn’t a leak. It just ran all the time, even with no water. I have since gotten it repaired, but my boat always gets trailered with the plug removed and boat covered anyways.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thank you!
The 1-2-Both switch is a relic of a bygone era, and has no place in any boat today. It's just too easy for boaters to set it wrongly and end up with a dead starting battery. There are much better solutions today which are literally fool-proof.
Sometimes depending on to much technology can get you in worse trouble than plain good old common sense, maintenance, all boaters should have a little basic know how for simple things unless they've learned how to walk on water !
@@Roger-gm9tl You don't need "technology" particularly to create a foolproof charging system.
I just charge my batteries every month. Like religion.
I am made
If you have a gas powered motor you should run at least two batteries- I don’t care what size your boat is
Get to the point
Grade: F. You took a very important mistake, batteries in parallel, and made it confusing. 7 minutes of details without explaining the fundamentals. No simple diagrams. In 7 minutes, you could also have explained solar panels and multiple batteries: Separate chargers into separate batteries into separate loads. Oh, never wire batteries in parallel. Small differences in their voltages make them fight each other. You could have called it " Boat Battery Switches Not Explained".
Shut up. You get an F