@wrx2hot4u coming from someone thats put 100% of my time and effort into an oem ka24de rebuild and it worked out perfect... luckily because I could have so easily missed something after doing everything I could because I'm a human and I can look at something and see a 10,000 of an inch and not many people can so I don't see why you throw hate at one of the many great content creators we have bringing us stuff to watch and enjoy and bring some light to this dull world
@@louischurch8013 im pretty humble so I don't mind entertaining stupidity 😅 some people might actually realize how ignorant they are if not then no skin off my back
The piston ring installation tool can overstress a piston ring quite easily. I had a customer who expanded the ring past its tension limit with that tool and ended up in the EXACT position you are. I use my fingernails to open the ring JUST large enough to slip it into it land, its slower but insures you dont have that problem.
Yeah its a lot safer to do everything with rings by hand, I would never use a ring expander ever, and when going into the cylinder use fingers one ring at a time
I would agree with you, but Okachan does have 30 years of SR knowledge under his belt let alone other engines, I wouldn't discredit him for something like this that he does weekly (I'd assume)
sleeves always get oval after time. you never put new pistons in a unbored or honed engine. get new pistons and sleeves. have the sleeves bored to the measurements of the pistons. always measure the work of the machineshop with an inner gauge with 3 points balance your pistons yourself. when you put on the head. measure the squeeze first and than determinate the thickness of your head gasket. Good luck with the build. hope to see a lot of vids
my exact thoughts like wtf and im a amature mechanic and i know these things lmao im so surprised they put brand new forged pistons in a stock bore??? whaaaaaat . of okachan does that im starting to question all his other methods 😳
Generally speaking .... forged pistons need a little more piston to bore clearance ...that cylinder clearance was I LITTLE too tight .. (the others just got by..) The lack of clearance BROKE the boundary layer for oil film to keep metal away from metal...and the piston Ali picked up on the bore metal.....
The pistons are normally made with the extra clearance if required ie. if the bores are bored to a nominal size (or are standard), they should have the correct clearance and not require extra clearance to be honed into the bores. im picking the ring gap was set in a big area of a distorted bore, so the ring butted when it got to a tight spot
You should always check ring gap in a high performance engine by checking close to bottom middle then top gap maybe perfect in middle but bottom is tight or loose at top ect also a 60$ 2in to 6in Dail bore gauge is a great tool to check out of roundness
Way to stay positive Sam. I am shocked man,you put this motor together so damn meticulously...crazy. Youll get it back together and ripping here soon man! Stay positive!
The fastest and wisest would be to take the 2.2 block from Okachan. Definitely don't buy only the one piston because the wear will not be the same and you will be still stuck on about 500HP what doesn't make sense and you still invest all the hard work. The common sense would definitely be 2.2 if you want to unlock the full potential.
I would go 2.4 if he can I think that's the biggest bore kit you can get for a sr20det but I think he should do a vet head he would be able to make more power and u don't have the rocker issues that the det heads have.
I don’t watch every video on this channel but doesn’t he only have a couple drift days on the car? It would be stupid not to reuse the pistons (apart from the bad one obviously) and rods if the engine was just built with that little run time. New piston rings and oil rings all round, there shouldn’t be any wear on the pistons already… all they have to do is check the skirt width and the width all around the pistons just to make sure. For the rods they will obviously put new bearings in since they can.
Get yourself a work bench too, towel everything down before you assort the parts out neatly neatly then cover everything with plastic while your not working on the engine. Having everything just sprawled out on the ground on cardboard is asking for contamination
That is lubricator error, and detonation combination. Sometimes you see that when oil squirters fail and pistons get hot and ring gap goes away, or too little gap on piston rings.
Don't think so. There may have been a little burr on the ring and it caught and snapped the ring. The oil squirters are only there for cooling and the engine can run completely fine without them.
I'm more towards detonation or manufacturing error on the rings. lubrication error is super unlikely because even without squirters, a ton of oil gets sent up the bore. It's more of a difficulty to keep the oil away than to keep it lubricated. Out of round bore is also not a likely case, because all that would do is give you worse compression.
@@TheChrisey did you notice that the damage is on the pressure side of the piston? I have seen this on a racing engine after oil squirter failed and piston lacked cooling from the oil. So lubrication failure. Oil does more than lubricates the pistons on high horsepower engines. Piston gets hot, ring gap goes to zero and this is what you end up. I ran a motorcycle dyno shop and built engines in the past. Not the first time seen this kind of damage.
You probably already know this but future reference you can take a screw driver And put the metal top on several different locations that you think the noise might be coming from and then put the handle up to your ear. It will get you to almost the exact location of the noise as it amplifies the sound. It works really really well as far as one of the several procedures taken to diagnose a problem. Anyways sucks to hear about your block
The dowels on a s15 engine might be longer because the s15 with a 6 speed has a dual mass flywheel, and the s14 doesn’t. Also the dual mass flywheel on s15 makes it harder to replace the clutch than on a 5 speed s14.
great detective work, it's so gratifying to finally put all the pieces of the mystery together and they all fit. Do the SR right and how you want it and while you wait I think theres an R33 in the corner that wants some love. RB25.........?
i have to say i never saw anyone while he was building the motor check the bore with a dial gauge for roundness and for runout which is like the first basic step of what you check when you are looking to rebuild a block
Well Sam, you brought up a check I haven't thought of in years. The word of the day is concentric. If any portion of the bore was out of round, the rings can fail. That's why the check exists. Because you were working with an experienced builder, I took it for granted that the bores on that block were fine. I hope you get the block back quickly. At least you got closure and we got an answer to what that noise was. Hope you get it back soon so we can see you send it at Ebisu before the season ends!
A broken piston and possibly a rebore of the block sucks, but i a way i think to find the issue rather than feeling and hearing something is wrong must have been a true relief. Glad to see you didn't take the engine out for nothing and have an explanation on what caused it, which is not your fault at the end of the day. 😉😀
Maybe should've sent it to a machine shop before building the engine, with motors I find everything works best when you take your time and if it's worth doing Do it right!
from the look of that ring, i think your dead on the head with the bore being slightly off you can see the ring rubbed and got hot * it thinned and flattened out where the discolouring is ( in turn expanding and using all the ring gap then snapping at the hot spot) super unfortunate bud. keep your head up you did everything right ( on video anyways ;) lol ) was shit luck and this stuff happens build it again and now you know something new and to look out for in the future ! cheers bro
Let's not get it twisted it was oversight, overlook, that nobody thought about but like you said these things happen when building motors, you just need to learn from your mistakes and move on and build it better. I know you have it in you and can't wait for the great content ahead. Also I don't think it was anyone's fault and I'm glad you're staying positive and learning from this. If anything next time you'll probably check that and be called to anal about the build but we build on our futures from the past.
I'm so happy you two figured it out and I remembered when Okachan gave you that block mentioning that a boost controller went bad making the engine run at full boost. Looking forward to seeing the block with new sleeves
Stoked to see the problem in plain sight and know that chain guide play is normal. I know it's very common on Cummins' engines to ovalize cylinders. Would make sense if the bore was worn, or if the sleeves were giving out.
I think you should research which bore and what kind of SR setup feels the best for drifting. As this is your main drift car (comp car maybe?), you should set it up in a way that feels the best for you, along with what will be best for its usage.
@@tyrellwashington747 What I mean is like what kind of power numbers feel best for drifting an s15 Silvia. Find out what figures give the right amount of power and torque to feel the best when drifting. I know there's a lot of other factors that go into it, but I'm pretty sure that has to be one of them for making the perfect drift car, which is also a preference thing. I guess I'm just saying Sam should do whatever feels best for him.
That sucks that happened but at least you found the problem and you learned something from it. I forgot my dad told me if a knock goes away when you take spark away its rod knock, piston slap or conrod pin...🤦 I wished I would have remembered that sooner
It's great you found the knocking problem and I'm glad your relieved and not mad, but big sad face, I wish you'd be shredding some rubber and blowing smoke with this mad car. I know it'll be back together in a flash though, like I said you've got it setup so you can slap everything back together and have 'er running in a day.
I would take the 2.2 Okachan have get the car running asap and deal with the engine when you know you have all you need to start to rebuild it, then have it as a spare engine. That way you have the car to use and can drive it pretty soon, then focus on other project and deal with the engine rebuild on rainy days when driving is a no no.. That's my two cents.. how and what I would have done... I mean rather have car running asap then on blocks in the shop. Keep up the awesomeness, CHEERS!
Will be great to see you two working together again. If was me would two engines one spare to rotate to keep you on the track more. Great to get closer in your engine.
What's worrying is my forged engine, for the last 11k miles has really bad piston slap on cold start. How your piston 1 is how all mine are. Bores are immaculate and there's no damage to the pistons. I use Wiseco pistons and I've heard/read they do that
Hey Sam. So glad you found the issue. I have a sort of legality question though, regarding that block not having an engine number and the car being a street car, how was it possible to get the car 'registered'? Because in my home country Jamaica, without the proper documentation matching the hardware, they would confiscate the car and class it as a stolen engine that was tampered with.
You could hone it, but as the slives are weak and it´s essentially a race motor I don't think that's the best idea. But as long as you get a new pistone that is in balance with the other then I don't think you should need more then one new piston, but I am used to old 50's and 60's stuff so could be different for this sort of stuff.
brake/parts cleaner in the port is the industry standard for your average mechanical workshop and even used as a double check method by engine machining shops
There is one thing I noticed Sam from the thumbnail. The piston ring gaps are what appears to be positioned and lined up with the piston skirt. You wanna avoid this by placing them on the wrist pin sides staggered. I'm not saying that this is the reason being why this cylinder failed, but definitely don't want the ring gaps on the sides of the skirt. You want the section of the ring to have no opening on the pistons skirt sides.
Be a maverick and swap in a z31 vg30et or vg33e with the z31 tubo parts. Make that 500hp goal easy with nissan power. People hit 500 boosting na vg30e on stock internals. And easier to work on than the z32 dohc version. paired with a megasquirt 3 gold box ecu the engine has a lot of potential. I love my 87 300zx turbo with this setup.
Vacuum testers are Overpriced! I'm gonna make my own, been on my to do list for awhile. I had a sim problem on my first engine build and it was due to bad advise from my mentor at the time, he thought it was funny. Not saying the same happened to you, mistakes do happen but I learned to figure out my own stuff. FYI thicker the bore the stiffer the bore.
Ultimately it's your call how insane you want to build this thing but an absolute must is reliability so 2.1 with a mid power push set up or a 2.2 with a low to mid setup that will do everything you want it to do. Rem make perfect Ram make the insane berserker
you may as well o-ring it if you sleeve it. sleeves can sink down too. also remember if you stroke it you also lower the rev limit as well as beef up the mid range torque, most times. pick your poison i guess.
U can use gas to flip it and fill the chamber and mark the full level with a marker or whatever and give it a while and then check to see if the level inside the chamber has dropped at all
Have you ever thought about using a mirror to look at the underside of the head, when you were looking for valve seat seal? It's a LOT easier than standing on your head to look up underneath the head.
Ah, so it was in fact a piston skirt slapping. I was thinking more of it being caused by too much play in a wrist pin rather than an out-of-round cylinder or whatnot.
Hayy sammit love to see your progression ❤ i also pro motor bike racer. In malaysia some time we just use petrol gas or part cleaner to check if valve are licking . But love to hear that you know about that right now. Add your experience ❤💪
Would love if u go 2.2 but time will tell and I learn a lot of the sr and the malicious thing that Nissan do and the limit of the sleeve and it just pure knowledge for me as future mechanic and keep those positive attitude Sam
Did you put piston rings in and check the measurements throughout the entire top, middle, and bottom of the block's piston bore? I made the same mistake on my first build.
hone the scoring out if you can get another piston and throw it back together. if it can be just honed and doesn't need to be bored i would go that route.
I've seen this before piston was to tight to the bore when I assemble engines we mic the piston and bores down to tenthousand of an inch and some times the machine shop can have a cylinder a bit on the tight side and has to go back
I'm going through a problem with my r170 slk benz my auto box is stuck in gear and I've tried everything ... sucks not knowing what's wrong with your car ... I hope I find the relief you have ...
The tapping kinda sounds like piston slap. And that would allow the piston to whack the sides of the sleeve. I dont know why the piston rings would fail like that.
I wanna see the car back on the road. Having Ram constanly broken has slowed the other projects too. I wanna see Ringo back on the channel so we need Ram back and in good condition for work to start on Ringo
Hoping you don't do the next break in by cruising down the highway. Hard tell from the camera and I could be wrong but it already looks like that cross hatching is hard to see/ smoothed out. Need some load to break in properly and bed those rings, so we can see this thing rip without issues 👌
I've seen that in customers engine. Usually its a sign of too tight piston to wall clearance, with heat, metal expand + cylinder pressure. To me the piston to wall clearance was too tight
If you want a fast turn around why dont you just buy the 2.2 block from okachan and get the block you have re.sleeved and do a really cool engine swap with it like into a evo would be really cool
Was that a Toyota Hiace slammed on blue wheel and a huge wing? Also an easy way to check for be t valves is pour some gasoline (petrol) in each one, if it is bent it will leak, thats how my boss does it, it's and old-school trick.
Looks like a machining mistake. Bore shouldn't be oblong like that for a long long time. You can use a dial bore gauge or a cheaper option a "snap" gauge and micrometer in multiple places.
Why did Oka Chan say oh wait was that the motor? That implies it was already 20 over rather than bored to match the pistons. Also what grade piston did you use?
Dude it had me I swear it was the timing chain system. We all learned something. I did 😆. I know the feels. This will be place "now you know " file. It is true of the block was not "true" will lend you piston slap. HEY HAVE THE CRANKSHAFT CHECKED
Damn, I have to say I've never seen damage like that and not have it make allot more noise. I'd like to see you just get the S15 back out there shredding and competing. I personally would go with what will be reliable and what you can do with as little down time as possible. It just sucks because I've seen how much you've improved in your driving and I know with your S15 you would be on track for your best season yet. I'll keep your S15 in my prayers 🙏.
That looks like oil starvation. The Toyota 1zz had that exact problem one of the holes behind the rings gets gummed up and hey presto your cylinder is now egg shaped
What would a built sr20 from okachun cost like cash would it be hks or Tomei priced like 20k or more affordable. If I could get a engine with a pre tuned ecu even if I had to buy a Trans also that would be a game changer.
Sammit: please don't give problems
the SR20: I DONT WANT PEACE I WANT PROBLEMS ALWAYS
😭💀
😂😂😂
This comment 💀💀💀🤣🤣🤣
Man I remember you assembling this block so meticulously and being so hyped to see it rip. Coming back even stronger tho I hope
@wrx2hot4u coming from someone thats put 100% of my time and effort into an oem ka24de rebuild and it worked out perfect... luckily because I could have so easily missed something after doing everything I could because I'm a human and I can look at something and see a 10,000 of an inch and not many people can so I don't see why you throw hate at one of the many great content creators we have bringing us stuff to watch and enjoy and bring some light to this dull world
@@Spacedout209 I’m surprised you even gave this guy the time of day he probably doesn’t even own a car with a name like that lol
Man
www.youtubecomm.com/watch?v=CUjE7Q4SI3p
Coming back even stronger tho I hope
@@louischurch8013 im pretty humble so I don't mind entertaining stupidity 😅 some people might actually realize how ignorant they are if not then no skin off my back
@wrx2hot4u how you supposed to learn what to do the fuck nigga 🔱🔱🔱🔯🔯🔯🔯
The piston ring installation tool can overstress a piston ring quite easily.
I had a customer who expanded the ring past its tension limit with that tool and ended up in the EXACT position you are.
I use my fingernails to open the ring JUST large enough to slip it into it land, its slower but insures you dont have that problem.
Yeah its a lot safer to do everything with rings by hand, I would never use a ring expander ever, and when going into the cylinder use fingers one ring at a time
same
Or it got broken or stressed when he was putting the piston in, sometimes if you're not careful they catch on the block edge...
I would agree with you, but Okachan does have 30 years of SR knowledge under his belt let alone other engines, I wouldn't discredit him for something like this that he does weekly (I'd assume)
@@hotboisideways6729 i have 30 years of engine building knowledge also...a piston ring is a piston ring..they all go on the same way
sleeves always get oval after time. you never put new pistons in a unbored or honed engine. get new pistons and sleeves. have the sleeves bored to the measurements of the pistons. always measure the work of the machineshop with an inner gauge with 3 points
balance your pistons yourself. when you put on the head. measure the squeeze first and than determinate the thickness of your head gasket. Good luck with the build. hope to see a lot of vids
Even the give away car engine was done at a machine shop, but not his personal car in japan!?.. Tough lesson
@@davidfloener7539 cOnTeNt
my exact thoughts like wtf and im a amature mechanic and i know these things lmao im so surprised they put brand new forged pistons in a stock bore??? whaaaaaat . of okachan does that im starting to question all his other methods 😳
Generally speaking .... forged pistons need a little more piston to bore clearance ...that cylinder clearance was I LITTLE too tight .. (the others just got by..)
The lack of clearance BROKE the boundary layer for oil film to keep metal away from metal...and the piston Ali picked up on the bore metal.....
The pistons are normally made with the extra clearance if required ie. if the bores are bored to a nominal size (or are standard), they should have the correct clearance and not require extra clearance to be honed into the bores. im picking the ring gap was set in a big area of a distorted bore, so the ring butted when it got to a tight spot
You should always check ring gap in a high performance engine by checking close to bottom middle then top gap maybe perfect in middle but bottom is tight or loose at top ect also a 60$ 2in to 6in Dail bore gauge is a great tool to check out of roundness
Way to stay positive Sam. I am shocked man,you put this motor together so damn meticulously...crazy. Youll get it back together and ripping here soon man! Stay positive!
The fastest and wisest would be to take the 2.2 block from Okachan. Definitely don't buy only the one piston because the wear will not be the same and you will be still stuck on about 500HP what doesn't make sense and you still invest all the hard work. The common sense would definitely be 2.2 if you want to unlock the full potential.
Last vid he did say he liked the feel of the 2.0 though. Idk anything ab cars really though so if I say something stupid that's why aha
I would go 2.4 if he can I think that's the biggest bore kit you can get for a sr20det but I think he should do a vet head he would be able to make more power and u don't have the rocker issues that the det heads have.
I don’t watch every video on this channel but doesn’t he only have a couple drift days on the car? It would be stupid not to reuse the pistons (apart from the bad one obviously) and rods if the engine was just built with that little run time. New piston rings and oil rings all round, there shouldn’t be any wear on the pistons already… all they have to do is check the skirt width and the width all around the pistons just to make sure. For the rods they will obviously put new bearings in since they can.
@@uniquewhite1836 he will need to step it up with the re-sleeve. Larger bore size
No replacement for displacement
Dam a check with a bore guage before you even start messing with a second hand block is always essential
Get yourself a work bench too, towel everything down before you assort the parts out neatly neatly then cover everything with plastic while your not working on the engine. Having everything just sprawled out on the ground on cardboard is asking for contamination
That is lubricator error, and detonation combination. Sometimes you see that when oil squirters fail and pistons get hot and ring gap goes away, or too little gap on piston rings.
Don't think so. There may have been a little burr on the ring and it caught and snapped the ring.
The oil squirters are only there for cooling and the engine can run completely fine without them.
I'm more towards detonation or manufacturing error on the rings. lubrication error is super unlikely because even without squirters, a ton of oil gets sent up the bore. It's more of a difficulty to keep the oil away than to keep it lubricated. Out of round bore is also not a likely case, because all that would do is give you worse compression.
@@TheChrisey hks rings are extra stiff.. they probably damaged it during install..
@@Carlos-kk4nw YES - over expanded with the ring install tool
@@TheChrisey did you notice that the damage is on the pressure side of the piston? I have seen this on a racing engine after oil squirter failed and piston lacked cooling from the oil. So lubrication failure. Oil does more than lubricates the pistons on high horsepower engines. Piston gets hot, ring gap goes to zero and this is what you end up. I ran a motorcycle dyno shop and built engines in the past. Not the first time seen this kind of damage.
Happy for you, Sam. Thanks for telling us the whole story! Waiting for the new block assembly videos.
You probably already know this but future reference you can take a screw driver And put the metal top on several different locations that you think the noise might be coming from and then put the handle up to your ear. It will get you to almost the exact location of the noise as it amplifies the sound. It works really really well as far as one of the several procedures taken to diagnose a problem. Anyways sucks to hear about your block
The dowels on a s15 engine might be longer because the s15 with a 6 speed has a dual mass flywheel, and the s14 doesn’t. Also the dual mass flywheel on s15 makes it harder to replace the clutch than on a 5 speed s14.
A 3 spoke adj cam gears will break loose if the valves touch the pistons which saves mines a couple times
“There is nothing but happy accidents” -Bob Ross
No seriously I’m glad you found the problem. Everything makes sense now!
great detective work, it's so gratifying to finally put all the pieces of the mystery together and they all fit. Do the SR right and how you want it and while you wait I think theres an R33 in the corner that wants some love. RB25.........?
i have to say i never saw anyone while he was building the motor check the bore with a dial gauge for roundness and for runout which is like the first basic step of what you check when you are looking to rebuild a block
Just like you said, I'm glad the culprit of the sound was found. Onto a sleeved block we go!
would love to see you do 2.2 and go all out with this build! Make her go VROOM!!!!
Yes i agree😁
Well Sam, you brought up a check I haven't thought of in years. The word of the day is concentric. If any portion of the bore was out of round, the rings can fail. That's why the check exists. Because you were working with an experienced builder, I took it for granted that the bores on that block were fine. I hope you get the block back quickly. At least you got closure and we got an answer to what that noise was. Hope you get it back soon so we can see you send it at Ebisu before the season ends!
A broken piston and possibly a rebore of the block sucks, but i a way i think to find the issue rather than feeling and hearing something is wrong must have been a true relief. Glad to see you didn't take the engine out for nothing and have an explanation on what caused it, which is not your fault at the end of the day. 😉😀
Honestly your s15 is my dream car, you give me so much inspiration to never give up man, keep up the good work
Maybe should've sent it to a machine shop before building the engine, with motors I find everything works best when you take your time and if it's worth doing Do it right!
from the look of that ring, i think your dead on the head with the bore being slightly off you can see the ring rubbed and got hot * it thinned and flattened out where the discolouring is ( in turn expanding and using all the ring gap then snapping at the hot spot) super unfortunate bud. keep your head up you did everything right ( on video anyways ;) lol ) was shit luck and this stuff happens build it again and now you know something new and to look out for in the future ! cheers bro
Let's not get it twisted it was oversight, overlook, that nobody thought about but like you said these things happen when building motors, you just need to learn from your mistakes and move on and build it better. I know you have it in you and can't wait for the great content ahead. Also I don't think it was anyone's fault and I'm glad you're staying positive and learning from this. If anything next time you'll probably check that and be called to anal about the build but we build on our futures from the past.
I'm so happy you two figured it out and I remembered when Okachan gave you that block mentioning that a boost controller went bad making the engine run at full boost. Looking forward to seeing the block with new sleeves
Stoked to see the problem in plain sight and know that chain guide play is normal. I know it's very common on Cummins' engines to ovalize cylinders. Would make sense if the bore was worn, or if the sleeves were giving out.
I really admire the way you don't seem to stress a lot when it's something you cant change and have no control over.
More content why would he stress xd
Really like the in depth engine teardown. Sleeves song good, always can rebuild. Diesel engine's are like that✌️😊
Keep up the great content and cant wait to see you back in the states soon. I know the CT boys will be stoked!!!
PMSL love the sped up audio while spraying the head valves.
I think you should research which bore and what kind of SR setup feels the best for drifting. As this is your main drift car (comp car maybe?), you should set it up in a way that feels the best for you, along with what will be best for its usage.
Dudes 12 bro let him have his moment
@@tyrellwashington747 What I mean is like what kind of power numbers feel best for drifting an s15 Silvia. Find out what figures give the right amount of power and torque to feel the best when drifting. I know there's a lot of other factors that go into it, but I'm pretty sure that has to be one of them for making the perfect drift car, which is also a preference thing. I guess I'm just saying Sam should do whatever feels best for him.
@@tyrellwashington747 it made sense in my head :\
Great diagnostic work and figuring out the history of the block! Glad you figured it out, what a story!
That sucks that happened but at least you found the problem and you learned something from it. I forgot my dad told me if a knock goes away when you take spark away its rod knock, piston slap or conrod pin...🤦 I wished I would have remembered that sooner
It's great you found the knocking problem and I'm glad your relieved and not mad, but big sad face, I wish you'd be shredding some rubber and blowing smoke with this mad car. I know it'll be back together in a flash though, like I said you've got it setup so you can slap everything back together and have 'er running in a day.
I would take the 2.2 Okachan have get the car running asap and deal with the engine when you know you have all you need to start to rebuild it, then have it as a spare engine.
That way you have the car to use and can drive it pretty soon, then focus on other project and deal with the engine rebuild on rainy days when driving is a no no..
That's my two cents.. how and what I would have done... I mean rather have car running asap then on blocks in the shop.
Keep up the awesomeness, CHEERS!
Will be great to see you two working together again.
If was me would two engines one spare to rotate to keep you on the track more. Great to get closer in your engine.
What's worrying is my forged engine, for the last 11k miles has really bad piston slap on cold start. How your piston 1 is how all mine are. Bores are immaculate and there's no damage to the pistons. I use Wiseco pistons and I've heard/read they do that
Glad you found out what is wrong, like you said, depends on the parts available to do 2.0 or 2.2 block will be better
Hey Sam. So glad you found the issue. I have a sort of legality question though, regarding that block not having an engine number and the car being a street car, how was it possible to get the car 'registered'? Because in my home country Jamaica, without the proper documentation matching the hardware, they would confiscate the car and class it as a stolen engine that was tampered with.
You could hone it, but as the slives are weak and it´s essentially a race motor I don't think that's the best idea. But as long as you get a new pistone that is in balance with the other then I don't think you should need more then one new piston, but I am used to old 50's and 60's stuff so could be different for this sort of stuff.
brake/parts cleaner in the port is the industry standard for your average mechanical workshop and even used as a double check method by engine machining shops
There is one thing I noticed Sam from the thumbnail. The piston ring gaps are what appears to be positioned and lined up with the piston skirt. You wanna avoid this by placing them on the wrist pin sides staggered. I'm not saying that this is the reason being why this cylinder failed, but definitely don't want the ring gaps on the sides of the skirt. You want the section of the ring to have no opening on the pistons skirt sides.
The rings should spin when the engine runs
@@timsminigarage they do. The ring stagger upon install is just for the very early breakin moments.
Be a maverick and swap in a z31 vg30et or vg33e with the z31 tubo parts. Make that 500hp goal easy with nissan power. People hit 500 boosting na vg30e on stock internals. And easier to work on than the z32 dohc version. paired with a megasquirt 3 gold box ecu the engine has a lot of potential. I love my 87 300zx turbo with this setup.
Vacuum testers are Overpriced! I'm gonna make my own, been on my to do list for awhile. I had a sim problem on my first engine build and it was due to bad advise from my mentor at the time, he thought it was funny. Not saying the same happened to you, mistakes do happen but I learned to figure out my own stuff. FYI thicker the bore the stiffer the bore.
Awesome when you have a sensai like that on speed dial. It’s the little things they teach you along the journey 🤙
We've all been there mate, everyone had at least one engine that failed even before leaving the shop. Stay positive it's all gonna be good
Ultimately it's your call how insane you want to build this thing but an absolute must is reliability so 2.1 with a mid power push set up or a 2.2 with a low to mid setup that will do everything you want it to do. Rem make perfect Ram make the insane berserker
Lean out . Front runs lean hot . Rears run wet and tends to grab / pinch piston . Oblong sleeves
Sleeve it. How are the spira-locks? You’d think you’d have serious blow by. Did the compression check out after assembly?
Balls dude that sucks but glad to see you're getting things worked out.
Same method when doing a leak down check, you could use soapy water and spray it on the valves.
you may as well o-ring it if you sleeve it. sleeves can sink down too. also remember if you stroke it you also lower the rev limit as well as beef up the mid range torque, most times. pick your poison i guess.
U can use gas to flip it and fill the chamber and mark the full level with a marker or whatever and give it a while and then check to see if the level inside the chamber has dropped at all
I guess you can start trusting yourself for the next engine build more without having doubts at all. Its all for good 🙌
Have you ever thought about using a mirror to look at the underside of the head, when you were looking for valve seat seal? It's a LOT easier than standing on your head to look up underneath the head.
Ah, so it was in fact a piston skirt slapping. I was thinking more of it being caused by too much play in a wrist pin rather than an out-of-round cylinder or whatnot.
Hey Sam will you coat the piston skirts on your next motor? Coat the tops too when you do it it makes it more thermally efficient
We got rod knock ruddy… now introducing Piston Slap Sammy!!!!
Hayy sammit love to see your progression ❤ i also pro motor bike racer. In malaysia some time we just use petrol gas or part cleaner to check if valve are licking . But love to hear that you know about that right now. Add your experience ❤💪
Would love if u go 2.2 but time will tell and I learn a lot of the sr and the malicious thing that Nissan do and the limit of the sleeve and it just pure knowledge for me as future mechanic and keep those positive attitude Sam
Hey you need stainless sleeves and they hold it all to gether on race motor but you need to freeze them to sink them to put in
Did you put piston rings in and check the measurements throughout the entire top, middle, and bottom of the block's piston bore? I made the same mistake on my first build.
Yup same here. Common mistake lol
Loving the content recently keep it up bro your teaching me so much about SR engines and the s chassis thanks man 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
You live you learn. Hard part is remembering the lessons 🤙👍
hone the scoring out if you can get another piston and throw it back together. if it can be just honed and doesn't need to be bored i would go that route.
Was prob a groove in the block before it was built cause the ring to get hot in one spot and crack, .5mm oversize less work and cost
I've seen this before piston was to tight to the bore when I assemble engines we mic the piston and bores down to tenthousand of an inch and some times the machine shop can have a cylinder a bit on the tight side and has to go back
So awesome I'm glad you got closure cuz I would drive me nuts too
I say it all the time and I'll say it again... Sammits uploads are life right now
Would be really cool to help you out bro ..employ me as your assistant/filmer😂
Just stroke it leaves the door open for more power and sounds rad 👍
I'm going through a problem with my r170 slk benz my auto box is stuck in gear and I've tried everything ... sucks not knowing what's wrong with your car ... I hope I find the relief you have ...
i would say: no bigger bore. You break your engines as they are ... so more power ... more broken time ... and no competition
The tapping kinda sounds like piston slap. And that would allow the piston to whack the sides of the sleeve. I dont know why the piston rings would fail like that.
I'm really surprised on the damage of the bore it could of been way worse like a broken ring land or you could of cracked the cylinder wall
I wanna see the car back on the road. Having Ram constanly broken has slowed the other projects too. I wanna see Ringo back on the channel so we need Ram back and in good condition for work to start on Ringo
Hoping you don't do the next break in by cruising down the highway. Hard tell from the camera and I could be wrong but it already looks like that cross hatching is hard to see/ smoothed out. Need some load to break in properly and bed those rings, so we can see this thing rip without issues 👌
2jz be like Sam! Sam! Sam!!!!!!!!!
How come u didn't measure the bores to make sure the piston to wall clearance was correct for the new pistons ?
I've seen that in customers engine. Usually its a sign of too tight piston to wall clearance, with heat, metal expand + cylinder pressure. To me the piston to wall clearance was too tight
Someone commented about this on the video where you pulled the engine and they said all the things you discovered.. piston slap.👍
May as well put a HKS stroker crank in glad you caught it before it went boom.
If you want a fast turn around why dont you just buy the 2.2 block from okachan and get the block you have re.sleeved and do a really cool engine swap with it like into a evo would be really cool
Was that a Toyota Hiace slammed on blue wheel and a huge wing?
Also an easy way to check for be t valves is pour some gasoline (petrol) in each one, if it is bent it will leak, thats how my boss does it, it's and old-school trick.
Looks like a machining mistake. Bore shouldn't be oblong like that for a long long time. You can use a dial bore gauge or a cheaper option a "snap" gauge and micrometer in multiple places.
Love my T gauges, saved me a load of money.
Much needed Closure. I was racking my brain about as much as you were. Keep it up. You and everyone else are amazing!
Thank you and Okuchan!
Well done but in my opinion do it properly once with all good quality gear, especially if drifting/ racing the car. Can't wait to see it going agian 👍
Why did Oka Chan say oh wait was that the motor? That implies it was already 20 over rather than bored to match the pistons. Also what grade piston did you use?
Dude it had me I swear it was the timing chain system. We all learned something. I did 😆. I know the feels. This will be place "now you know " file. It is true of the block was not "true" will lend you piston slap. HEY HAVE THE CRANKSHAFT CHECKED
Damn, I have to say I've never seen damage like that and not have it make allot more noise. I'd like to see you just get the S15 back out there shredding and competing. I personally would go with what will be reliable and what you can do with as little down time as possible. It just sucks because I've seen how much you've improved in your driving and I know with your S15 you would be on track for your best season yet. I'll keep your S15 in my prayers 🙏.
Nice to see you stay positive, keep at it! Onwards and upwards
"those are the only 2 guys who matter with SR" HUGE mistake!
(randomly cleans engine, finds the problem) "NANI?!"
Skirt slap. Check your play in wrist pins
Sometimes the bore is looser at the top and tighter at the bottom
That looks like oil starvation. The Toyota 1zz had that exact problem one of the holes behind the rings gets gummed up and hey presto your cylinder is now egg shaped
Yep it’s just like that when I go to Biltema, that’s about the equivalent of hobo freight.
What would a built sr20 from okachun cost like cash would it be hks or Tomei priced like 20k or more affordable. If I could get a engine with a pre tuned ecu even if I had to buy a Trans also that would be a game changer.
Rod knock isn't the end of the world. It's when you continue to run your engine does it self destruct.