@@masterchiefy830 you might be right idk if its supposed to be like that now i looked up some pictures of a sr20det and they do not have that shit does look like a crack or broke off a piece of metal
@@masterchiefy830 prob just the block tired of hearign sammit capitalize on anything . sponsor merch pushing doantion rantign for 3m then cryign about ttv for 5m bruh i dont mind doing that but do it in a normal way. not even linking okuchan in the description bruh how can you not link his channel or at okuchan while he does all this for you and still ats you in his vids where you show up i mean shwo some respect at him ffs not say his name and hope people will find him sheesh. maybe its just me ranting but cmon at him next time. hate me or not idc i cant respect you this way sadly enough
It does cost a lot of money to build engines one way to save some money in the long run is the Buy a set of calliper tools and a dial board gauge you really need it if you're gonna build your engines there's no other way to find out if a cylinder is around or if the crank mains are round and you're bearing clearance
There is a chance with every nut and bolt fresh in your head from the last build and teardown, that putting everything together 2nd time could very possibly yield a very well running/long lasting engine.
I love the precision of the Japanese when I was there for work last week they were amazing at how precise they set the press up. When I got my new Fairlady Z watch band adjusted the guy was amazing so quick and careful. If I ever build a engine sure to use HKS parts.
Sam you legend !! Its taken me almost 3 months to almost put my cylinder head back on my 97 2.8 tdi.. and here is this guy rebuilding a whole sr in like 20 mins 🤣 Keep Sending it Bro !
Do you build often? because diesel and petrol are pretty different when building in my experience. Most my time with the diesel was just carrying the heavy ass head on
@@tdkyt46 well classic mini engines more than anything to be honest , 1st time opening a Diesel engine, retiming etc and putting back together but yes , everything is so sooo much heavier 😂 That’s just due to the higher compression they run at to ignite the diesel in the cylinders though💪🏻 everything is on my channel if you feel to have a look 👌🏼
if you have a paper from the machine shop with each bore assigned to a piston. did you check for marking on the piston to mount it in the correct bore?
I know this is old already just a little advise anytime you rebuild a engine even if the rod bearings are not worn or show damage its always a good safety precaution to change rod bearings because they can fail faster than most internal engine components and if that happens you can have catastrophic engine failure especially with high horsepower cars resulting in a piston going through the block at worst case scenario and leaving metal in pick up tubes oil pump etc. I am sure it will be fine tho just saying from experience its best once its all apart to take the time and refresh those critical parts for safety measures other than that great content sammit
17:11 caught me off guard with the BGM. At least we have a engine built well and no loose ends and shortcuts, all built properly. Let’s hope there is no “Lz” curses in Sam’s SR.
If you are going to copy that Sr workshop manual I would laminate the pages or place the leaves in a page protector and ring binder that manual my friend is super rare..
If you are going to race 20 times a year, with additional practice days, you should realize you are going to have to rebuild a lot more than that. It will probably be at least once a year.
He might listen on his 3rd go around, LOL. You get more paranoid per engine build. I saw a few cringy things. I would have measured the piston ring end gap throughout each cylinder. Furthermore, I would have used a dial bore and caliper for the crank and the bearings. Plastigauge is not that accurate. I would have coated piston dome and skirts, as well as a coating on rod bearings. Next thing, get an oil analysis next time every so many miles to make sure your new engine is doing what it's supposed to and no ring or bearing issues.
Only thing I have to say is you used an extension to torque your torque is gonna be off by 15 percent for every inch of extension you use but other than that nice to see a kid my age building an intefence engine love to see it
This only applies if you are extending outward from the pivot point of the bolt to the wrench. if the head of the wrench is still directly over the bolt head, you dont see a significant drop in torque
@@festa289 yeah not the case tho because even if it is straight over and the angles correct it's the distance from point to point I've been through it and have been shown by okachan level people and the distance and breaks if you could a made the distance with a socket rather than socket and extension the percentage would be more accurate and then we get into material and stretch dynamic rather than torque to yield or a aro yes he used arp which the composite holds torque better and longer but when you still have a two to three inch extension on a torque wrench universal the torque enacted on a shaft is play varied by distance is still subject to torque loss if that was the case sir we wouldn't have drive train loss it takes more work at different distance and in this case the unit in which we are measuring is torque so the extension would still loose about 15 percent yield on his torque value that was transferred may not make a difference but I know it does could be fine he's taking his time and doing it right but I've had problems on my own with the 4.6 platform when your get past a certain slap bang quality and want to make high horsepower and rpm running boost the key factor here everything changes if it was na I'd of not said a single thing
@@chungusbuilt1717 so are you saying with the extra distance you are resulting in more or less torque at the bolt. If you use torque = force x distance, it would stand to reason more distance = more torque?
@@chungusbuilt1717 The only relevant factor I could see is the amount of twist in the extension causing loss of torque, however the wrench will just keep twisting the extension until the torque set on the wrench is reached. Ie: the wrench would have traveled further to reach the desired torque due to the twist in the extension, but the resulting torque would be the same?
@@festa289 what I am saying even if the wrench clicks or beeps and says it reached it's value the reading is taken in this case from the tip of the wrench in the extension it right there has met it the required torque set but because there is an extension in the mix instead of just a deeper socket is enough to result in 10 to 20 pounds of torque off the targeted torque I also did retorque and quality assurance and testing at Kawasaki and in that instance something like not having your hand squared on the handle right being to far up will cause even if you get the beep or click for it to come out under and in that same respect if you go to far to the end of the wrench at the click or beep usually results in a over torque but in the case no matter what if you use an extension unless you shoot just for a little over what you were shooting for for every inch of extension results in less torque held so if we were shooting for 150 foot pounds and we have a 2.5 inch extension we could see a resulting yield loss of held and applied torque of your clamping force of the bolt to the degree of 20 foot pounds I've seen it all to many times quality in material can make up for that and tolerance in tooling and such but he's right there look at what a bore misizing caused the man with a master there to watch so I'd rather say something and save him the trouble that I've came to because I almost cried to see the instance occured something similar happened earlier on with one of mine basically brand new engine had a season and one event that ended it for the original pasted down to me and had that same thing happen to me on a Cleveland I had for my first build
Sam can you elaborate on if you’re using OEM Nissan bearings and going off of the block/crank side engravings? Or are you using Nismo bearings? I don’t think the Nismo come in as many sizes as the OEM bearing.
Now you know you'll have to do a brake in period before you really kick the boost in It's best to do it gradually. Heat cycle And drive normally for a while to analyze how the engine behaves Good vidéo i like this stuf i love engines 😁
@@SylasG Well first of all what I mean by before really kick the boost is to drive more normally not the pedal to the metal the first moment of life of an engine never we do that we have to burn several gas tanks before a real race unless you have pistons who we were pre lapped looser in general you know that the aluminum expends faster than the iron cylinders so !! I am normally conservative on my engine and it lasts a long time i like m'y r32 m'y r32 love me since 2008 wit m'y engine 😉
How did you clock your 1 and 2 compression rings and your oil rings? Did you do them in a certain orientation and was that orientation down because they were going a certain way in the block?
The more it runs, the more metal you get through the engine and the more components get damaged. not to mention the compression on that cylinder would be low and only get worse. furthermore, there was no way to diagnose the noise until it as pulled down. if it was a run bearing or a timing chain or oil pump issue, it would have been close to catastrophe
You really should double check the machine shops work or just the bore with a bore guage. Two ppl had piston slap on a new engine this past week on TH-cam because they didn't check. =/
Get Exclusive NordVPN deal here ➼ nordvpn.com/sammit It's risk-free with Nord's 30-day money-back guarantee! ✌
@10:53 UPPER LEFT MIDDLE PART OF THE SCREEN . is it a crack or just a figment of my imagination.
@@masterchiefy830 you might be right idk if its supposed to be like that now i looked up some pictures of a sr20det and they do not have that shit does look like a crack or broke off a piece of metal
@@masterchiefy830 prob just the block tired of hearign sammit capitalize on anything . sponsor merch pushing doantion rantign for 3m then cryign about ttv for 5m bruh i dont mind doing that but do it in a normal way. not even linking okuchan in the description bruh how can you not link his channel or at okuchan while he does all this for you and still ats you in his vids where you show up i mean shwo some respect at him ffs not say his name and hope people will find him sheesh. maybe its just me ranting but cmon at him next time. hate me or not idc i cant respect you this way sadly enough
Tomorrow, I have an exam on engines so instead of studying I am watching this. I'll keep you posted.
It does cost a lot of money to build engines one way to save some money in the long run is the Buy a set of calliper tools and a dial board gauge you really need it if you're gonna build your engines there's no other way to find out if a cylinder is around or if the crank mains are round and you're bearing clearance
There is a chance with every nut and bolt fresh in your head from the last build and teardown, that putting everything together 2nd time could very possibly yield a very well running/long lasting engine.
i would say its more then a chance. he is no idiot.
hopefully you checked the ring gap in the block before you assembled good video keep up the good work
I like how okachan is so easy going and always helps.
21:00 bless you, also as a sort of new car person its so cool to see someone build an engine!!
Imagine having Nismo/HKS parts at your disposal like that without having to order 😭
As somebody building an SR right now in the US, I wish...
Very fortunate to have a few cool companies down in Florida at my disposal though.
Would be dope to get a toolbox tour video at Oka chan shop
Gotta say the music during the Timelapse was perfect cause I was watching in the gym props for that Sam!
Okachan pulls through time and time again. Really nice and humble guy
I really enjoy the in depth teardown and rebuild videos 👍 good stuff. Take ur time, no rush ✌️😁
tell me you have a scanned version of that sr bible, I suffer when I see that kind of knowledge in a fragile form like that
That change at 17:12 YUS. Subbed on twitch
Nice to see the engine come back together so quickly, looking forward to seeing it back in the car and up and running!
I love the precision of the Japanese when I was there for work last week they were amazing at how precise they set the press up. When I got my new Fairlady Z watch band adjusted the guy was amazing so quick and careful. If I ever build a engine sure to use HKS parts.
Very cool twitch idea looking forward to that. Complete make over on your self and your engine . This is going to turn out nice when your done
Sam you legend !! Its taken me almost 3 months to almost put my cylinder head back on my 97 2.8 tdi.. and here is this guy rebuilding a whole sr in like 20 mins 🤣 Keep Sending it Bro !
Do you build often? because diesel and petrol are pretty different when building in my experience. Most my time with the diesel was just carrying the heavy ass head on
@@tdkyt46 well classic mini engines more than anything to be honest , 1st time opening a Diesel engine, retiming etc and putting back together but yes , everything is so sooo much heavier 😂 That’s just due to the higher compression they run at to ignite the diesel in the cylinders though💪🏻 everything is on my channel if you feel to have a look 👌🏼
Instead of assembly lube for the cylinder walls, try regular Red ATF not as thick and will burn off quicker and help the rings seat faster
Just something about engine building make me feel at peace
I guessed correctly! New block! w. sleeve! That was super nice of Okachon! I gave him a follow on TH-cam!
if you have a paper from the machine shop with each bore assigned to a piston. did you check for marking on the piston to mount it in the correct bore?
And did the piston rings need to be filed to set the end gaps aswell? or are hks piston ring not file fit as it ment to be standard size.🤷🏽♂️
God I love the s13 in front of the table.... Not gonna lie kinda looks like it's just watching you over the table like a verry interested child 🤣
I know this is old already just a little advise anytime you rebuild a engine even if the rod bearings are not worn or show damage its always a good safety precaution to change rod bearings because they can fail faster than most internal engine components and if that happens you can have catastrophic engine failure especially with high horsepower cars resulting in a piston going through the block at worst case scenario and leaving metal in pick up tubes oil pump etc. I am sure it will be fine tho just saying from experience its best once its all apart to take the time and refresh those critical parts for safety measures other than that great content sammit
You should check clearance on the connecting rod bearing a swell
17:11 caught me off guard with the BGM. At least we have a engine built well and no loose ends and shortcuts, all built properly.
Let’s hope there is no “Lz” curses in Sam’s SR.
If you are going to copy that Sr workshop manual I would laminate the pages or place the leaves in a page protector and ring binder that manual my friend is super rare..
not going to lie that first piston sounded like broken rings to me seemed much harder than necessary
Sam I love your Yashio Factory inspired hair, matches the s15 perfectly!
Should ceramic coat the pistons will help save the pistons if you catch a problem early.
for lubricity or heat dissipation?
Good one Sam 👊 Nice work and maybe run the S Bible through a scanner and PDF 🤙 Hag1 Arigato 🇦🇺🇯🇵
I'm just curious if you checked the gap on the rings before installing th pistons...
Not sure if letting chat control the boost level is a safe idea but it sounds fun
Felt the same thing no matter how good of a driver you are some dickhead throwing you an unexpected boost spike could cause a wreck
That was cool Sam. Now hurry up and tear the RB down and do a HKS 2.8L build 😁
Wow this brings back memories when we used to build 350 race engine's for. A race boats
12:24 Looks like you are playing guitar hero with the torque.
@Haugen Racing and you should do a collab!! :D
He is a drifter from the US and he just moved to Japan
I love seeing the process of building engines
The time lapse music was 🔥👌🏼 what was that?
Everyone needs a friend who has an SR20 Bible
@SAMMIT We are so ready for the twitch stream!!! This is going to be so sick 🔥🔥
You and Okachan should sign the bad piston and do a raffle on it! I’d buy some tickets
18:17 SHE’S IN!!! 😂😂🤣
Sam always lookin like the bad guy in an anime lol
If the son of chucky was ever live action then Sammit nailed the part lol. Cant wait to see the car 100% again
Really am enjoying the latest very frequent content!
Pretty blessed to be using oem Nissan parts
this Haircollor looking cool man.
I can’t wait to go pick up my car from Yashiofactory
If you are going to race 20 times a year, with additional practice days, you should realize you are going to have to rebuild a lot more than that. It will probably be at least once a year.
AdamLz had to rebuild his s15 like 2-3 times a year, and that thing eaven had a jz as well
@@marcellvarga4569 1000+hp VS 500hp or so
This was a rebuild. Seasonal checking is just bearings and clean up it will hold fine atleast couple seasons
@@juumoro5978 thanks for clarifying, I think they really needed that.
@@marcellvarga4569 Adam also ran nitros and crazy power
love this typa content super great video and haven't watched one of your streams but def gonna check the drift event one fsfs sounds super lit
OH YEAH HEAVY METAL ENGINE BUILDINGGGGG
engine building is so neat
Do they make a block gurddle for sr's like they do for jz and rb engines it keep the crank from walking would be a smart idea if not
So this guy gets to not only build engines, but build them in Japan, with awesome weather outside too!?
few videos ago: “this simple mistake cost me an entire engine” this video: “building an engine in .0069 seconds”
did you measure the end gap of those rings in their respective cylinders, or just slap them on the pistons and hope they're right?
I was paranoid he didn't but he probably did and didn't film it.
@wrx2hot4u they confirmed the problem off camera and he even told that the block he has before ran into issues.
He might listen on his 3rd go around, LOL. You get more paranoid per engine build. I saw a few cringy things. I would have measured the piston ring end gap throughout each cylinder. Furthermore, I would have used a dial bore and caliper for the crank and the bearings. Plastigauge is not that accurate. I would have coated piston dome and skirts, as well as a coating on rod bearings.
Next thing, get an oil analysis next time every so many miles to make sure your new engine is doing what it's supposed to and no ring or bearing issues.
Guessing and hoping the machine shop did it..... they should of.
Im whiling to bet Okachan had already gapped the rings for him beforehand. That's why it wasn't on camera.
Awesome content like usual! Makes want to teardown my sr20de engine 🤔! Just wish I had a og hard copy fsm!!!! Flipping is way easier than scrolling!
I’ve been watching your channel for about 2 years now and I absolutely love your content keep it up!
So happy that i can skip the in video ads 😂😂✌🏼
Nothing better than rebuilding an engine and rock music. Anyone know the song?
Sightless in Shadow - Evil Rise
27:09 hahahaha his expression reminds me of the awkward stream on twitch with the girls lol
Man you should have check bore your self and checked piston ring gap. Fingers crossed it’s ok for u
Just curious but if those pistons were sent with the block shouldnt they be numberd as to what cylinder they were machine matched for??
Only thing I have to say is you used an extension to torque your torque is gonna be off by 15 percent for every inch of extension you use but other than that nice to see a kid my age building an intefence engine love to see it
This only applies if you are extending outward from the pivot point of the bolt to the wrench. if the head of the wrench is still directly over the bolt head, you dont see a significant drop in torque
@@festa289 yeah not the case tho because even if it is straight over and the angles correct it's the distance from point to point I've been through it and have been shown by okachan level people and the distance and breaks if you could a made the distance with a socket rather than socket and extension the percentage would be more accurate and then we get into material and stretch dynamic rather than torque to yield or a aro yes he used arp which the composite holds torque better and longer but when you still have a two to three inch extension on a torque wrench universal the torque enacted on a shaft is play varied by distance is still subject to torque loss if that was the case sir we wouldn't have drive train loss it takes more work at different distance and in this case the unit in which we are measuring is torque so the extension would still loose about 15 percent yield on his torque value that was transferred may not make a difference but I know it does could be fine he's taking his time and doing it right but I've had problems on my own with the 4.6 platform when your get past a certain slap bang quality and want to make high horsepower and rpm running boost the key factor here everything changes if it was na I'd of not said a single thing
@@chungusbuilt1717 so are you saying with the extra distance you are resulting in more or less torque at the bolt. If you use torque = force x distance, it would stand to reason more distance = more torque?
@@chungusbuilt1717 The only relevant factor I could see is the amount of twist in the extension causing loss of torque, however the wrench will just keep twisting the extension until the torque set on the wrench is reached. Ie: the wrench would have traveled further to reach the desired torque due to the twist in the extension, but the resulting torque would be the same?
@@festa289 what I am saying even if the wrench clicks or beeps and says it reached it's value the reading is taken in this case from the tip of the wrench in the extension it right there has met it the required torque set but because there is an extension in the mix instead of just a deeper socket is enough to result in 10 to 20 pounds of torque off the targeted torque I also did retorque and quality assurance and testing at Kawasaki and in that instance something like not having your hand squared on the handle right being to far up will cause even if you get the beep or click for it to come out under and in that same respect if you go to far to the end of the wrench at the click or beep usually results in a over torque but in the case no matter what if you use an extension unless you shoot just for a little over what you were shooting for for every inch of extension results in less torque held so if we were shooting for 150 foot pounds and we have a 2.5 inch extension we could see a resulting yield loss of held and applied torque of your clamping force of the bolt to the degree of 20 foot pounds I've seen it all to many times quality in material can make up for that and tolerance in tooling and such but he's right there look at what a bore misizing caused the man with a master there to watch so I'd rather say something and save him the trouble that I've came to because I almost cried to see the instance occured something similar happened earlier on with one of mine basically brand new engine had a season and one event that ended it for the original pasted down to me and had that same thing happen to me on a Cleveland I had for my first build
Solid JDM haircut
Nice !!
Love watching engine builds 👍🏼
Can't wait to see how you send this thing.
good to see you going to 2.1
Sam can you elaborate on if you’re using OEM Nissan bearings and going off of the block/crank side engravings? Or are you using Nismo bearings? I don’t think the Nismo come in as many sizes as the OEM bearing.
The scuffing on the sides of the piston is a tuning issue not a build problem. This guy's a social media addict.
You make good content and I like watching your videos . I can't wait till you start building the blue Nissan
Dude put rod bearings in while it's apart....they are cheap enough. Especially the rod that had the piston slap
Been a while since I've seen the SR bible😂
That legends car thooooooo
Dude, put that damaged piston on a gold chain necklace and rock it at comps/shows!
This is exactly how im building my lego cars but much more easier haha🤟
Wsg Sam great to see you right on the SR good luck wish you the best!
That hair and music has me laughing, Oz has officially disowned you now
I'm going to miss the 48 hour drift stream! I won't have internet all weekend! NO!!!!!!!!
I'm headbanging the entire video lol
Great vid Sam!!
Man is it me or does Sammit look like FaZe Pamaj’s twin 😂😂
I like your new hair cut!
34 coupe, love those cars
Rookie move man . You didn't recheck your ring gaps .
Now you know you'll have to do a brake in period before you really kick the boost in It's best to do it gradually. Heat cycle And drive normally for a while to analyze how the engine behaves Good vidéo i like this stuf i love engines 😁
Actually best way to get good ring seal is to get the engine in boost and load as soon as possible. Heat cycle and oil change then get it on the dyno.
@@SylasG Well first of all what I mean by before really kick the boost is to drive more normally not the pedal to the metal the first moment of life of an engine never we do that we have to burn several gas tanks before a real race unless you have pistons who we were pre lapped looser in general you know that the aluminum expends faster than the iron cylinders so !! I am normally conservative on my engine and it lasts a long time i like m'y r32 m'y r32 love me since 2008 wit m'y engine 😉
I like the music Sam
Not gonna lie Sam the pink hair looks so good on you
Either your eyes are messed up or you kissing up to him his hair looks weird as hell he looks like a k pop boy band impersonater
@@adamthomas4638 I’m sure your a real open minded feller👌👌 god forbid anyone to have different taste and opinions
You used stock torque spec on the rod bolts for after market bolts?
Same thing I noticed.....
HKS said torque to OEM spec...
@@SAMMIT That's awesome, wish ARP will do that. Now you made me like HKS :p
sam can i have that cylinder head? lol
edit: rip incant get the piston lol
Keep up the good work mate! ✌
Another awesome video. Very informative and great to watch more of your growth journey. Keep it up!!!-aka Munky Ayala
I ordered some merchandise from okachan. Gotta love the company name he has(hot stuff) gonna be fun explaining this purchase to my wifu. Lol
How did you clock your 1 and 2 compression rings and your oil rings? Did you do them in a certain orientation and was that orientation down because they were going a certain way in the block?
Sammit yk what they say if you have a spare engine your engine wont blow up🥱
17:11 Hmm, wrong time of the month
Sam, those rods. Don't they use ARP style bolts? I thought the torque spec was different from factory on the HKS pieces.
How much longer could you have run the broken engine with pistonslap/sidehknock as it was? Was it really that bad ?
Rather rebuild probably than causing more damage spend more money when engine pops 🤔
The more it runs, the more metal you get through the engine and the more components get damaged. not to mention the compression on that cylinder would be low and only get worse. furthermore, there was no way to diagnose the noise until it as pulled down. if it was a run bearing or a timing chain or oil pump issue, it would have been close to catastrophe
Nice hair 😆
You really should double check the machine shops work or just the bore with a bore guage. Two ppl had piston slap on a new engine this past week on TH-cam because they didn't check. =/