I'm absolutely dazzled that I went from watching Jang reviewing cool Legos all the way back to the Hero Factory days, to reviewing badass Gundams I love as well (NOT TO MENTION THE GORGEOUS PAINT JOB I COULD NEVER)
Love it when new techniques are discovered and shared, I’m def trying out your watercolor technique in my toy customizing (mainly transformers). For painted parts I’ve been relegated to the brush style panel line markers, wiped off with q-tips or a microfiber cloth, or acrylic paints that I then clean up by chipping off with a toothpick once dry. This seems much faster! Amazing paint job!
Oh you're gonna love it. I did the huge Legacy series Hasbro Millennium Falcon with this technique in about 2 hours total. Absolutely transformative bringing out all of the great molded in detail, with no hassle. Now because it is water soluble, if you handle it a lot you may slowly rub a bit off, especially if the panel lines are shallow. I always recommend sealing anything detailed with a top coat (clear matte or semi-gloss usually). I've used Krylon Colormaxx "Flat Crystal Clear" on probably a dozen mechs & other collectibles now, and others in the Gundam world have recommended Krylon 1311. You want to mask off anything you don't want to be made matte, though, like windshields & chromed elements. Also spray from farther away than you expect, and in very light mist coats. If you want to go expensive, the go-to high-end solution-in-a-can is the Mr. Hobby line of top coats which are extremely high quality with fine finishes. Just expensive. The specific wash setup I usually use is just straight black watercolor paste paint, in my case low-end Windsor Newton brand from Amazon, watered down with straight Vallejo Flow Improver which is very cheap in larger bottles. An alternative would be to use water with a plain dish soap (with no hand softening agents preferably). Spread it over everything without a care in the world (other than for what's around you -- it'll run & drip if you go overboard!), let it dry. Then just damp paper towels wiped very lightly across the surface (so as to minimize reactivation of the paint in the crevices) will do most of the bulk cleanup, and damp q-tips will let you fine tune. It's so fast & easy, it's almost criminal. I'll do some demo videos in the future for sure, now that I've tried it a bunch. For my Gundams I'll still often use an acrylic-based wash only because I do it on the part runners and then handle the piecesa ton during assembly, before detail paints, stickers/decals, and _then_ top coats. However, I still use the same process, slathering it on without care and wiping off the bulk with paper towels, but 99% isopropyl is substituted for cleanup.
I'm absolutely dazzled that I went from watching Jang reviewing cool Legos all the way back to the Hero Factory days, to reviewing badass Gundams I love as well (NOT TO MENTION THE GORGEOUS PAINT JOB I COULD NEVER)
Love it when new techniques are discovered and shared, I’m def trying out your watercolor technique in my toy customizing (mainly transformers). For painted parts I’ve been relegated to the brush style panel line markers, wiped off with q-tips or a microfiber cloth, or acrylic paints that I then clean up by chipping off with a toothpick once dry. This seems much faster!
Amazing paint job!
Oh you're gonna love it. I did the huge Legacy series Hasbro Millennium Falcon with this technique in about 2 hours total. Absolutely transformative bringing out all of the great molded in detail, with no hassle. Now because it is water soluble, if you handle it a lot you may slowly rub a bit off, especially if the panel lines are shallow. I always recommend sealing anything detailed with a top coat (clear matte or semi-gloss usually). I've used Krylon Colormaxx "Flat Crystal Clear" on probably a dozen mechs & other collectibles now, and others in the Gundam world have recommended Krylon 1311. You want to mask off anything you don't want to be made matte, though, like windshields & chromed elements. Also spray from farther away than you expect, and in very light mist coats. If you want to go expensive, the go-to high-end solution-in-a-can is the Mr. Hobby line of top coats which are extremely high quality with fine finishes. Just expensive.
The specific wash setup I usually use is just straight black watercolor paste paint, in my case low-end Windsor Newton brand from Amazon, watered down with straight Vallejo Flow Improver which is very cheap in larger bottles. An alternative would be to use water with a plain dish soap (with no hand softening agents preferably). Spread it over everything without a care in the world (other than for what's around you -- it'll run & drip if you go overboard!), let it dry. Then just damp paper towels wiped very lightly across the surface (so as to minimize reactivation of the paint in the crevices) will do most of the bulk cleanup, and damp q-tips will let you fine tune. It's so fast & easy, it's almost criminal. I'll do some demo videos in the future for sure, now that I've tried it a bunch.
For my Gundams I'll still often use an acrylic-based wash only because I do it on the part runners and then handle the piecesa ton during assembly, before detail paints, stickers/decals, and _then_ top coats. However, I still use the same process, slathering it on without care and wiping off the bulk with paper towels, but 99% isopropyl is substituted for cleanup.
Incredible work
Man, this is gorgeous. Good work making the MGEX even cooler.
This is stunning. I love your color choices.
Hello what clear base stand you used in that thanks in advanced :)
Just curious, didn't you have a channel dedicated to rc cars? Great build. 👍
Love the build , did you pre build the kit and than paint afterwards
i agree with everything you said about the mgex except i dont feel like biying and painting it😅
That's what the Chogokin Strike Freedom is for provided you have $400 sitting around
Original is better but nice work here keep it up man!