If I may put in my two-pence worth, I just use a piece of rod just a bit larger than the shift rod to gently hammer that brass bushing out without any tapping. That comes with the added bonus that the old bushing can be lubed-up and reused most of the time by pushing it back in place over the new O’ring using that same rod. Amitiés Ti-Michel !
I removed my bushing using T-Mikes method. You only thread in the tap about half way down. Did you notice this in his video? The bolt wedges in nicely. When you remove the tap/bolt and examine the bushing, the bottom half is still fully intact. This rod is not spinning or moving up and down constantly to worry about wear, so 3/8 of an inch of untouched bushing should perfectly suffice for the shift rod..... the top of the rod is clamped and the upper rod's bushing keeps it all in line... So I'm not a bit concerned about this method... BTW, I put the bushing in with the cut thread out, so a bolt can be screwed in some time in the future. Could grit enter the threaded portion between the rod and bushing? Possibly. So that's the only drawback I see.
Why would you not replace all the seals (2) in the gearcase while you have it all apart? Yes, the shift rod oring's are the first to fail but one would have to guess that the drive shaft and prop seal have as much time as the oring. Doing them all at the same time would save your customer time and money. Just testing them (seals) at one time does not insure they will be in the same condition a couple of months from now. Then the units have to be torn down again to be resealed. Another thing to look for are groves on the shafts where the seals ride. The seals will cut grooves in the shafts so I would look at them and see if you can feel the groove.
Mike, awesome video. I’m rebuilding a 1956 15hp gearcase. I put in new shift rod seal, prop shaft impeller seal and O-ring, new driveshaft seal. I have it all together without impeller. Put 9-1/2 psi in gearcase with a pressure tester. Placed in a bucket of water. After a short while I had two tiny bubble streams, both out of the driveshaft seal. Not at the shaft but Where the seal is pressed into the gearcase housing! Metal to metal. So I did not put sealant on the perimeter of the new seal. It was not pre coated like the prop shaft seal. Obviously I can’t remove it without destroying the new seal. Can I apply sealant on the outside of the installed seal and will that seal it up? Should I replace it and use sealant around the outer rim?
I didn’t either but it’s leaking air… So now what do I do? Do I try using it anyway and see if it leaks? Put in a replacement?The pocket was clean that the seal fits into. It had no scratches. Yet it’s leaking. It was an OEM BRP seal, 0321788, too.
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Love your channel T Mike. You didnt show the actual seal replacement. I was hoping to see the bushing removal too.
I have other videos showing that. Just search my channel. Thx
@@michaeljsimon found it. Thank you!
If I may put in my two-pence worth, I just use a piece of rod just a bit larger than the shift rod to gently hammer that brass bushing out without any tapping. That comes with the added bonus that the old bushing can be lubed-up and reused most of the time by pushing it back in place over the new O’ring using that same rod. Amitiés Ti-Michel !
Right. I bought a long 5/16" rod at the big box store to knock out the bushing to get to the O-ring. Popped right out.
I removed my bushing using T-Mikes method. You only thread in the tap about half way down. Did you notice this in his video? The bolt wedges in nicely. When you remove the tap/bolt and examine the bushing, the bottom half is still fully intact. This rod is not spinning or moving up and down constantly to worry about wear, so 3/8 of an inch of untouched bushing should perfectly suffice for the shift rod..... the top of the rod is clamped and the upper rod's bushing keeps it all in line... So I'm not a bit concerned about this method...
BTW, I put the bushing in with the cut thread out, so a bolt can be screwed in some time in the future. Could grit enter the threaded portion between the rod and bushing? Possibly. So that's the only drawback I see.
Gearcase #2 didn’t pump water as good as #1. Great content by the way!!
Why would you not replace all the seals (2) in the gearcase while you have it all apart? Yes, the shift rod oring's are the first to fail but one would have to guess that the drive shaft and prop seal have as much time as the oring. Doing them all at the same time would save your customer time and money. Just testing them (seals) at one time does not insure they will be in the same condition a couple of months from now. Then the units have to be torn down again to be resealed. Another thing to look for are groves on the shafts where the seals ride. The seals will cut grooves in the shafts so I would look at them and see if you can feel the groove.
Awesome finally working on a 30hp ha
T-Mike please tell me he’s sending you other parts to work on😉
Mike, awesome video.
I’m rebuilding a 1956 15hp gearcase. I put in new shift rod seal, prop shaft impeller seal and O-ring, new driveshaft seal. I have it all together without impeller. Put 9-1/2 psi in gearcase with a pressure tester. Placed in a bucket of water. After a short while I had two tiny bubble streams, both out of the driveshaft seal. Not at the shaft but Where the seal is pressed into the gearcase housing! Metal to metal.
So I did not put sealant on the perimeter of the new seal. It was not pre coated like the prop shaft seal.
Obviously I can’t remove it without destroying the new seal.
Can I apply sealant on the outside of the installed seal and will that seal it up?
Should I replace it and use sealant around the outer rim?
I don’t use sealant on the seals.
I didn’t either but it’s leaking air…
So now what do I do?
Do I try using it anyway and see if it leaks? Put in a replacement?The pocket was clean that the seal fits into. It had no scratches. Yet it’s leaking.
It was an OEM BRP seal, 0321788, too.
I would change the housing but I have the parts. Try the sealant.
T Mike I know it's been a while for this video....what are you using to seal the skeg besides the rubber rope seal
@@jimbjimb-mp2ph here we go …..
t-mikesvintageoutboards.com/product/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant-80062/
4 places. Could be the spagetti seal also.
How and why, would you suspect your outboard motor had a leak? I'm guessing, water in the gear housing oil.
Correct
Correct. Milky oil.
Well done
Wheres a good place to find a pressure tester like that?
th-cam.com/video/IA0KxGNorY4/w-d-xo.html