I hope everyone appreciates the wealth of knowledge and ability to teach Hesty brings to the net… I don’t even need to watch this video because I’ve done it a few times and I just set it to play while I work on some other car stuff in the background. I still can’t help but be thankful for Andy doing the Lords work out here… Keep them Mk4s on the road and train up a generation of people that can fix their stuff instead of buy new crap. Thanks again Andy 🤙🏽
I would have liked seeing a video demonstration of this job on the right axle since it is a little more difficult than the left side. Overall, this is an outstanding video. I appreciate the time you took to thoroughly explain every step.
@@hestermannmotorwerks I wouldn't do recreational maintenance for the sake of a video. My original comment was prompted by seeing many TH-cam videos showing the replacement of a CV axle on the left side of a MK 4, never the right CV axle. The right side has its own unique challenges. Separately, I'm compiling the parts needed to replace the control arms, dampers, springs, brake pads, rotors, and overhaul the calipers on the same GTI. Should be interesting since this will be a first for me. The control arms worry me. There are two bolts on each control arm that connect the arm to the subframe. One of the bolts on each control arm can be tricky because they attach to a captive nut welded to the inside of the subframe. The nut is not visible and completely inaccessible by any hand tools. If the nut is corroded, especially where it's welded to the subframe, there's a chance the weld can break, resulting in the bolt spinning freely and not being able to separate it from the bolt for the purpose of removal. I sprayed a lot of penetrating oil inside a small factory machined hole inside the subframe in order hopefully allow removal without putting too much torque on the bolt head during removal. I'll see how that works out. Do you have any experience or advice on how to carefully remove these bolts, if you're familiar with the ones I'm referring to? If I break the weld on the nut, plan-B will be to grind a hole in the subframe in order to create an access hole for a tool to grip the nut. This could also be challenging since other videos show the nut has a rounded outer surface, not a hex or 12-point nut. As a result, only vice grips will be able to grip the nut. I also don't like plan-B because it weakens the structural integrity of the subframe. Thanks again for your video. Yours is the best removal/installation video of the left CV axle. Also, thanks in advance if you have any advice for the nuts and bolts I described.
Messing with the ball joint will mess up the alignment (note the holes in the control arms - slotted). The driver side axle can be removed/installed without undoing any suspension or moving the knuckle. Just unbolt the sway bar droplink from both left/right control arms, swing the sway bar up, then there's enough room to tuck the axle up above the transmission and withdraw it from the hub and pull it out under the sway bar. On the passenger side, to gain clearance you can remove the front control arm bolt, and simply loosen the rear one. The control arm bolt holes are not slotted and do not affect alignment.
I know there's always an easier way...I never thought of removing the ball joint. I'm replacing subframe bushings, motor mounts/dog bone, struts w/polyurethane bushings, ball joints, and tie rods. The person who had my 2005 MK4 did zero maintenance as is still has all the OEM parts that are rusted on. This is a great video for tips when I do my 6 speed conversion and add Raxles.
Great video! Helped a lot! ONE IMPORTNANT TIP: No need to unbolt the control arm, at least on the driver's side. Turning the wheel outwards (left axle -> turn steering wheel left) and removing the anti-roll bar link was enough to replace the axle. Hope this saves some of you the hustle :)
Good tip! Yes usually the drivers side you can get enough clearance swinging the hub all the way towards the rear. The pass side though I find I usually have to unbolt the three bolts on the ball joint. If you trace them with a pen or a scribe though you can usually get them back in the same place and not need an alignment.
Great video, much appreciated!! Tapping in the triple square bit with a hammer was a very good tip, made getting the bolts out feel very solid. My axle was stuck in the hub (was in there for 17 years), had to hammer for 30 min to get it out. So make sure you have a big heavy hammer at hand. Believe m8 is 40nm and m10 is 70nm, so torque depends on what you have. Thanks again!!
Thanks for the video. the torque part is quiet interesting. i will watch it over and over again when i do my car. The workshop where i took my car is not doing a good job. my wheel bearing failed several times and i am gonna do it myself than paying the workshop over and over again. Thanks a lot for this video
Super good vid! Not awkward, good camera work, well spoken, ..dug the last part regarding tightening the axle nut! Immediately going to check to see if you've done a vid on clutch replacement!! Keep it up.
Thanks! glad it was helpful. Sorry don't have a clutch video. There are a couple good ones out there already. I may make one here in the near future but just been busy busy lately!
glad it was helpful. I hope your project goes well. If you find I didn't explain something well or find a better way to do it, please come back with comments so the next guy can benefit.
I hope it goes well for you! its not too bad replacing and the lifetime warranty rebuilds from NAPA or AutoZone or wherever are quite suitable for stock height and normal driving. Raxles are awesome axles but a bit pricy and for custom fit (lowered car) or heavy duty applications like racing or auto cross and the like.
Those inner flange bolts are not stretch bolts; they are reuseable so no need to buy new ones. However the, 3 small bolts (Grade 10.9 steel) that secure the lower supension arm are stretch bolts and should have been renewed. Also, the hub nut should be torqued under load.
Hi great video 👍🏼 do you have a video on putting new output shaft seals in? I have a mk4 1.8t 5 speed and my Passenger side went bad, it’s leaking all over lol if so please let me know thank you .
Hi, yeah really like your way with it... after the Axel/driveshaft nut was removed and you tapped the end to pop it out of the spline, what happens to the other end that's still engage into the transmission or gearbox?
Great video, thanks for putting together. I'm struggling to remove the CV joint from the hub to replace the CV boot, but didn't want to have to remove the inn flange bolts if possible. Do these need to be removed?
I have a 2002 new bettle to take passenger axle out, no problem with the 6 screw,but to take it out of the wheel side a problem any suggestion all the videos i check dont see complication like the one i have.
Angelo Laboy what is the problem on the wheel side? Did you get the 30 mm nut off ok? Then you need to tap the axle out of the hub. After that you have the option to either take the strut out or unbolt the three bolts on the bottom of the ball joint. It is the exact same procedure as the driver side demonstrated in the video
Yes the GTIs, R32 and a couple of others came with a bolt instead of a nut. It works basically the same way except you are removing a bolt instead of a nut. It is actually a little easier getting the axles in because they are shorter.
Any tips for getting the ball joint back in? Mine is dangling quite a bit lower than the control arm and I don't possess the strength to lift the whole spindle up to line it up
I have had to get an assistant. one of us pushes down (maybe even steps) on the control arm while the other slides the tabs of the ball joint in. New springs can make it tough
I just replaced my cv axle and it started clicking and popping and when I took wheel off the boot (Inner)one closest to the tranny was sheared in two and was spinning freely. It has spring overages that have been lowered. Im flipping out please help.
MrNintendosamurai if you’re car is lowered more then 1.5 inches or so, stock axles will be too long and will commonly break at the inner joint. Every time you hit a bump or the suspension flexes, the cv axle slams into the inner cup (against the transmission) and puts high forces on that inner joint. There are other ways to handle it but my recommendation is to contact Raxles and give him the specs of your car so he can build you axles the correct length for your set up. Or you can raise you suspension back to stock height and use stock axles.
did the driver experience a wobble or shimmy under acceleration? last night I was sort of running my 01 gti pretty hard chirped the tires and felt kind of a pop didn't think nothing of it then all the sudden under acceleration felt wobble or shimmy, I'm sure it's axle related as it only does this under acceleration and gets worse in higher speeds 45 to 55 mph, ive heard to stay away from part store brands as they don't last and most are not balanced right, going to look into these you have in the video. thanks for the video and detailed steps, also where can the 10mm double square tool be found?
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ this one was a dramatic failure. It just broke and started flopping around. But sometime on a slower "wearing out" failure, CV axles can induce a shimmy at at certain speed. Usually worse on decel than acceleration. Recommend you put it on jackstands or lift and do a visual inspection before spending money. Worn or broken lower control arm bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends can produce similar results. Check play in ball joint, and tie rod ends. If there is more than a small "click" they probably need replacement. Check that all the cv axle bolts are still in place and grab the middle shaft, it should move longitudinally with no popping or grinding but should NOT move up and down or laterally. Check the boots for tears, cuts or rips. Lower control arm bushings are harder to check. Basically you yank different directions on it at the frame end and see if it wiggles. If it does, time for new bushings
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ sorry for the novel, just trying to help. And most Auto parts store sell a set of three triple square bits for under $20. You get 8,10 and 12 mm in the set. Highly recommended to have if you work on your VW!
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ and because you heard a pop and then got the shimmy, I'd suspect broken bolt. You can just replace the bolts if the axle is not worn
superconnie79 some cars have a gasket that fits in the cup sticking out of the transmission. Usually if the bearings are exposed when you are holding the axle in your hand, they will have a gasket. When the axle has a cap over the bearings (most VW automatics) then a gasket is not needed. The gaskets should come with the axle
This could be a few things. I recommend inspecting everything before spending any money but I suspect you are correct. I'd recommend you jack it up and check the play in the wheel bearings, ball joint, and tie rods. while you have it up, you can check the CV axle boots and wiggle the inner joint to check for play too. Check both sides and then replace what you find worn! Good luck, hope it goes easy for you.
Hestermann Motorwerks yeah the drive shafts seem tight no tears in the boots, I took it to my local shop and there is some play in the right outer tie rod. Praying that's it getting it replaced today
yes, important to torque it correctly and I recommend using blue lactate on them. depends on the size of the bolt for what the torque should be. there are 3 different sizes
Thanks for all the info, great video. If I'm just changing the Cuff/Boot on the transmission side (it's thorn up, grease open its collecting dirt) , is there anything I need to do different? Do I have to have it aligned at the shop after? Got a Mk4 2000 1.6l
if it is a boot with a seam, you don't even have to take the axle off. If it is a one piece boot, you have to take the axle off and take it apart which can be challenging. The most important part is (and messy) is to clean out all the old grease. It has dirt and other containments in is which will severely shorten the axle life. Before you put the new boot on, clean out the old joint really well then inject the new grease.
in this video I'm installing the top of the line axles from a company called Raxles. in my opinion they are worth it. call Marty at 1-800-257-8192 or Email: sales@raxles.com to get a quote. you can buy after market axles from Napa, Auto Zone or any of those places. If you have lowered the car though, or drive it hard, i recommend Raxles. Lowering the car changes the geometry and stock axles will be too long (if you lower it more than an inch or two).
Hi I have a 07 2.5 beetle manual and I just watched your video and wanted to know if that axle on mk4 Will fit on the 07 2.5 beetle or does the length same cause I've contacted Raxles and they don't have for 07 2.5 beetle it looks the same but not sure if the length same just finding ways to fix my lowered /broken axle (half shaft)situations or if you know any other ways to fix the problem..pls help
Tony, sorry I don't know if they are the same. I suspect not but VWs are kinda like legos. You have to check the length, the splines on the hub end (that they match the hub) and then the flange where it bolts to the transmission. Those are the common places that they are different. Sorry I don't have a better suggestion for you.
Good point! This particular set was already packed and have a cap much like the auto axles do. Sometimes they come dry and you have to pack them yourself before installing. Usually the manual axles don't have a cap on the inner joint. It seals against the drive flange on the transmission. Either way, Everyone should check that the inner bearing set is packed with clean grease before installing on the transmission.
Im confused even with "hard driving and lowered" you're having to replace the axles every two months? Or you are saying that this is the second set of axles because the first set was poor quality?
When you lower the car more than 1.5/2 inches, the stock axles are too long. every time you hit a bump, the inner joint slams into the cup as the suspension flexes. Add that the owner regularly flogs this thing, the axles didn't last long. They were not high quality axles but they failed because the car was lowered more than 2 inches. So they failed in 2 months. The Raxles I put in were made to match the changed geometry from the car being lowered. They are actually just a little bit shorter.
Yes you should get an alignment. You can get it pretty close by marking the bolt heads on the ball joint and then matching those marks when reassembling though
+InitialXG going strong! love these Raxles. I think this was the best solution for the lowered stance of this car. If it wasn't so lowered, a standard axle may have been good enough. Car has been from Jacksonville to Miami to Pensacola and back to jacksonville with no issues!
Cool! Thanks for responding. It's a pretty penny for these axles so I'm a bit concerned. I have a lowered 03 GLI on fully adjustable konis. I've had to change my axles twice already in the past 2 years. This is the third and I'm hoping the last for awhile.
If you told Marty at Raxles about your ride height, I'm sure he adjusted the length and they will last a lot longer! Yeah they aren't cheap but when you consider you'd go through at least two stockers and the time to change them, it turns out to be a good deal IMHO. If you do have an issue with your Raxles, call them and see if they will help you. They have a pretty good warranty.
You did the axles how long ago??? Why did you edit that part out when you were about to say how long ago you just did them?? That wouldnt have anything to do with the quality of the Raxles shafts now would it??
I had done the auto parts store cheap axles just a couple months prior. At the time, I discussed with the driver that the coil overs on the lowest setting was putting high stress on the CV joints. He liked the way it looked and wanted to leave the car lowered. So combined between the stock length and the lower quality joints (auto parts store brand) the inner joint blew apart. When he came back to me to get the car fixed, I recommended the RAXLES. Two reasons, 1) custom length (in this case slightly shorter) to make up for the lowered suspension, and 2)the higher quality CJ joint he should not have any more issues. Parts store brand axles often will get 75-90000 miles out of them but that is usually on stock height suspension. Not trying to knock them, they do work in the correct application but this car is not one of them. If I didn't describe that clearly, let me know!
So with the car being lowered does that make for more complications for this process?.. Did you have to raise the car or was it fine to work on well lowered?
ZACHARY YORK I’d try www.IDparts.com, www.partsplace.com Or www.ECS.com. There are plenty of other places too. Your local NAPA can probably get them for pretty reasonable
I'd recommend you call Marty at Raxles but if I remember right they were around $200 each. Rebuilt knock offs are usually about $70 each and OEM axles range from $250-700 depending where you get them. IMO Raxles sound expensive but you are getting a custom axle that will outlast anything else. Highly recommend you call Raxles though and they'll give you a quick quote. Very possible I'm off here on pricing and even among MK4 VWs there are several different styles. Prices will probably vary depending on which ones you are looking for.
Thats true, most of the MK 4 VWs came stock with a 12 pt 30 MM nut. But most of the aftermarket axles come with a 6 point. You can use a 12 point socket on a 6 point nut but not the other way around. Then of course to confuse things just a bit more, there are a few 6 speed axles that actually have a bolt instead of a nut. They are all 6 point but are slightly smaller. I think 28 MM. bottom line, check what kind of nuts/bolts you have before buying or borrowing a socket to do the job.
in this video I'm installing the top of the line axles from a company called Raxles. in my opinion they are worth it. call Marty at 1-800-257-8192 or Email: sales@raxles.com to get a quote. you can buy after market axles from Napa, Auto Zone or any of those places. If you have lowered the car though, or drive it hard, i recommend Raxles. Lowering the car changes the geometry and stock axles will be too long (if you lower it more than an inch or two).
Gandy Ortiz depends on the car but usually about twice as much as the cheap ones at Autozone or wherever. Online at Raxles.com or call the number on the website. Marty is the man
Most are 8mm but some on 10s. This one in particular is 10 mm. If you own a Vw, I recommend getting the 8,10,12 mm set commonly found at auto parts stores
Tony Jones it may be the other side (usually the inside axle clicks when in a turn) or it maybe too long an axle. If the car is lowered more than 2 inches or so, the axles need to be shorter to make up for the geometry change. That’s exactly why the car in the video was getting a third set!
I hope everyone appreciates the wealth of knowledge and ability to teach Hesty brings to the net…
I don’t even need to watch this video because I’ve done it a few times and I just set it to play while I work on some other car stuff in the background. I still can’t help but be thankful for Andy doing the Lords work out here…
Keep them Mk4s on the road and train up a generation of people that can fix their stuff instead of buy new crap.
Thanks again Andy 🤙🏽
I've seen a lot of how too on this vehicle and a lot of other things. This was the best one I have ever seen.
Thanks, some of this stuff is really hard to get clear video of.
I would have liked seeing a video demonstration of this job on the right axle since it is a little more difficult than the left side. Overall, this is an outstanding video. I appreciate the time you took to thoroughly explain every step.
Thank you. Ill work on getting a right/passenger side video done
@@hestermannmotorwerks I wouldn't do recreational maintenance for the sake of a video. My original comment was prompted by seeing many TH-cam videos showing the replacement of a CV axle on the left side of a MK 4, never the right CV axle. The right side has its own unique challenges. Separately, I'm compiling the parts needed to replace the control arms, dampers, springs, brake pads, rotors, and overhaul the calipers on the same GTI. Should be interesting since this will be a first for me. The control arms worry me. There are two bolts on each control arm that connect the arm to the subframe. One of the bolts on each control arm can be tricky because they attach to a captive nut welded to the inside of the subframe. The nut is not visible and completely inaccessible by any hand tools. If the nut is corroded, especially where it's welded to the subframe, there's a chance the weld can break, resulting in the bolt spinning freely and not being able to separate it from the bolt for the purpose of removal. I sprayed a lot of penetrating oil inside a small factory machined hole inside the subframe in order hopefully allow removal without putting too much torque on the bolt head during removal. I'll see how that works out. Do you have any experience or advice on how to carefully remove these bolts, if you're familiar with the ones I'm referring to? If I break the weld on the nut, plan-B will be to grind a hole in the subframe in order to create an access hole for a tool to grip the nut. This could also be challenging since other videos show the nut has a rounded outer surface, not a hex or 12-point nut. As a result, only vice grips will be able to grip the nut. I also don't like plan-B because it weakens the structural integrity of the subframe. Thanks again for your video. Yours is the best removal/installation video of the left CV axle. Also, thanks in advance if you have any advice for the nuts and bolts I described.
The extra tidbits are what sets your videos apart. Keep it up! I appreciate you!!
Thank you!
Messing with the ball joint will mess up the alignment (note the holes in the control arms - slotted).
The driver side axle can be removed/installed without undoing any suspension or moving the knuckle. Just unbolt the sway bar droplink from both left/right control arms, swing the sway bar up, then there's enough room to tuck the axle up above the transmission and withdraw it from the hub and pull it out under the sway bar.
On the passenger side, to gain clearance you can remove the front control arm bolt, and simply loosen the rear one. The control arm bolt holes are not slotted and do not affect alignment.
Your mk4 videos are my go-to source.
I know there's always an easier way...I never thought of removing the ball joint. I'm replacing subframe bushings, motor mounts/dog bone, struts w/polyurethane bushings, ball joints, and tie rods. The person who had my 2005 MK4 did zero maintenance as is still has all the OEM parts that are rusted on. This is a great video for tips when I do my 6 speed conversion and add Raxles.
Great video! Helped a lot!
ONE IMPORTNANT TIP: No need to unbolt the control arm, at least on the driver's side. Turning the wheel outwards (left axle -> turn steering wheel left) and removing the anti-roll bar link was enough to replace the axle. Hope this saves some of you the hustle :)
Good tip! Yes usually the drivers side you can get enough clearance swinging the hub all the way towards the rear. The pass side though I find I usually have to unbolt the three bolts on the ball joint. If you trace them with a pen or a scribe though you can usually get them back in the same place and not need an alignment.
Great video, much appreciated!! Tapping in the triple square bit with a hammer was a very good tip, made getting the bolts out feel very solid. My axle was stuck in the hub (was in there for 17 years), had to hammer for 30 min to get it out. So make sure you have a big heavy hammer at hand. Believe m8 is 40nm and m10 is 70nm, so torque depends on what you have. Thanks again!!
Thanks for the video. the torque part is quiet interesting. i will watch it over and over again when i do my car. The workshop where i took my car is not doing a good job. my wheel bearing failed several times and i am gonna do it myself than paying the workshop over and over again. Thanks a lot for this video
Super good vid! Not awkward, good camera work, well spoken, ..dug the last part regarding tightening the axle nut! Immediately going to check to see if you've done a vid on clutch replacement!! Keep it up.
Thanks! glad it was helpful. Sorry don't have a clutch video. There are a couple good ones out there already. I may make one here in the near future but just been busy busy lately!
Excellent instructional video. I'm about to tackle this issue, and now I'll be prepared.
glad it was helpful. I hope your project goes well. If you find I didn't explain something well or find a better way to do it, please come back with comments so the next guy can benefit.
Great video! And thanks for showing the torque sequence on the axle nut. Its a little bizarre
Best video I've seen, very informative I'll follow the instructions for my Audi TT, thanks!!
Thanks! Yeah the TT is almost identical.
GREAT, great video! Thanks for sharing you're knowledge and skills...👍
Excellent video, good camera work, great explanations of each detail. THANKS!
Glad it was helpful!
Great points on removing and saving the old axle! Great Video!!! Thanks!
Slipping a screwdriver into the vanes of the rotor so you can torque the bolts was a genius suggestion!
Great video! Best one on this topic!
Wow, thanks!
Very helpful video. 5 stars.
Finely found what size socket I needed good looking 10 mm socket drove me crazy
Thank you very much for you video, Very informative and handy to know.
Best one by far
Great Video. I just picked up an '07 Beetle and it needs a new half shaft.
I hope it goes well for you! its not too bad replacing and the lifetime warranty rebuilds from NAPA or AutoZone or wherever are quite suitable for stock height and normal driving. Raxles are awesome axles but a bit pricy and for custom fit (lowered car) or heavy duty applications like racing or auto cross and the like.
Those inner flange bolts are not stretch bolts; they are reuseable so no need to buy new ones. However the, 3 small bolts (Grade 10.9 steel) that secure the lower supension arm are stretch bolts and should have been renewed. Also, the hub nut should be torqued under load.
Great video! Thank you for being so detailed.
Great videos !
Really helpful Thanks you Sir.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much for sharing !!!.
welcome! glad it was useful!
the best video where show avout the VW spesifications how will be there, thanks
Hi great video 👍🏼 do you have a video on putting new output shaft seals in? I have a mk4 1.8t 5 speed and my Passenger side went bad, it’s leaking all over lol if so please let me know thank you .
Good advice!
Hi, yeah really like your way with it... after the Axel/driveshaft nut was removed and you tapped the end to pop it out of the spline, what happens to the other end that's still engage into the transmission or gearbox?
What CV Axle you had before? The ones that you took out? Very good video, keep it up!
gracias, el mejor video de pasos para dar torque en VW segun espesificaciones
Great simple video
Thanks, glad you liked it. It may not sound like it when I'm rambling on but I am a big believer in "KIS" (Keep It Simple).
Great video, thanks for putting together. I'm struggling to remove the CV joint from the hub to replace the CV boot, but didn't want to have to remove the inn flange bolts if possible. Do these need to be removed?
If you are replacing both CV boots, yes you will have to remove the inner flange bolts. If you are just replacing the outer boot, you don't have to.
Bro where can I find that 13mm socket at😭😭
Where did you get your polyurethane suspension mounts from
I think I got these from ECStuning.com but I have bought them from Amazon, KermaTDI.com EroTuning.com and a couple other places too.
I have a 2002 new bettle to take passenger axle out, no problem with the 6 screw,but to take it out of the wheel side a problem any suggestion all the videos i check dont see complication like the one i have.
Angelo Laboy what is the problem on the wheel side? Did you get the 30 mm nut off ok? Then you need to tap the axle out of the hub. After that you have the option to either take the strut out or unbolt the three bolts on the bottom of the ball joint. It is the exact same procedure as the driver side demonstrated in the video
Exelent demonstration
What are the dimensions of the 6 CV AXLE bolts?
Anyone had this problem with the stock axles? Mine does not seem to fit
My MK4 gti has a large Allen key bolt, in place of the 32mm axel bolt, have you seen this before, and does this unscrew as the 32mm would? Thank you
Yes the GTIs, R32 and a couple of others came with a bolt instead of a nut. It works basically the same way except you are removing a bolt instead of a nut. It is actually a little easier getting the axles in because they are shorter.
Any tips for getting the ball joint back in? Mine is dangling quite a bit lower than the control arm and I don't possess the strength to lift the whole spindle up to line it up
I have had to get an assistant. one of us pushes down (maybe even steps) on the control arm while the other slides the tabs of the ball joint in. New springs can make it tough
I just replaced my cv axle and it started clicking and popping and when I took wheel off the boot (Inner)one closest to the tranny was sheared in two and was spinning freely. It has spring overages that have been lowered. Im flipping out please help.
MrNintendosamurai if you’re car is lowered more then 1.5 inches or so, stock axles will be too long and will commonly break at the inner joint. Every time you hit a bump or the suspension flexes, the cv axle slams into the inner cup (against the transmission) and puts high forces on that inner joint. There are other ways to handle it but my recommendation is to contact Raxles and give him the specs of your car so he can build you axles the correct length for your set up. Or you can raise you suspension back to stock height and use stock axles.
did the driver experience a wobble or shimmy under acceleration? last night I was sort of running my 01 gti pretty hard chirped the tires and felt kind of a pop didn't think nothing of it then all the sudden under acceleration felt wobble or shimmy, I'm sure it's axle related as it only does this under acceleration and gets worse in higher speeds 45 to 55 mph, ive heard to stay away from part store brands as they don't last and most are not balanced right, going to look into these you have in the video. thanks for the video and detailed steps, also where can the 10mm double square tool be found?
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ this one was a dramatic failure. It just broke and started flopping around. But sometime on a slower "wearing out" failure, CV axles can induce a shimmy at at certain speed. Usually worse on decel than acceleration. Recommend you put it on jackstands or lift and do a visual inspection before spending money. Worn or broken lower control arm bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends can produce similar results. Check play in ball joint, and tie rod ends. If there is more than a small "click" they probably need replacement. Check that all the cv axle bolts are still in place and grab the middle shaft, it should move longitudinally with no popping or grinding but should NOT move up and down or laterally. Check the boots for tears, cuts or rips. Lower control arm bushings are harder to check. Basically you yank different directions on it at the frame end and see if it wiggles. If it does, time for new bushings
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ sorry for the novel, just trying to help. And most Auto parts store sell a set of three triple square bits for under $20. You get 8,10 and 12 mm in the set. Highly recommended to have if you work on your VW!
THAT NEON DUDE JAMEZ and because you heard a pop and then got the shimmy, I'd suspect broken bolt. You can just replace the bolts if the axle is not worn
What about the gasket. I assume inner side against the transfer case.
superconnie79 some cars have a gasket that fits in the cup sticking out of the transmission. Usually if the bearings are exposed when you are holding the axle in your hand, they will have a gasket. When the axle has a cap over the bearings (most VW automatics) then a gasket is not needed. The gaskets should come with the axle
Thanks for the video, my MK4 Jetta is shaking like mad only under acceleration guessing this is the culprit :-/
This could be a few things. I recommend inspecting everything before spending any money but I suspect you are correct. I'd recommend you jack it up and check the play in the wheel bearings, ball joint, and tie rods. while you have it up, you can check the CV axle boots and wiggle the inner joint to check for play too. Check both sides and then replace what you find worn! Good luck, hope it goes easy for you.
Hestermann Motorwerks yeah the drive shafts seem tight no tears in the boots, I took it to my local shop and there is some play in the right outer tie rod. Praying that's it getting it replaced today
I replace mine and later on my cv axle bolts came off. Is it cuz I didn’t torque it right I forgot how I torque it
yes, important to torque it correctly and I recommend using blue lactate on them. depends on the size of the bolt for what the torque should be. there are 3 different sizes
Most of them are 59 ft/lbs as per the video
@@hestermannmotorwerks I have a gti vr6 12v
Thanks for all the info, great video. If I'm just changing the Cuff/Boot on the transmission side (it's thorn up, grease open its collecting dirt) , is there anything I need to do different? Do I have to have it aligned at the shop after? Got a Mk4 2000 1.6l
if it is a boot with a seam, you don't even have to take the axle off. If it is a one piece boot, you have to take the axle off and take it apart which can be challenging. The most important part is (and messy) is to clean out all the old grease. It has dirt and other containments in is which will severely shorten the axle life. Before you put the new boot on, clean out the old joint really well then inject the new grease.
Okay, I have a one piece boot. Thanks for the help and quick reply :)
in this video I'm installing the top of the line axles from a company called Raxles. in my opinion they are worth it. call Marty at 1-800-257-8192 or Email: sales@raxles.com to get a quote. you can buy after market axles from Napa, Auto Zone or any of those places. If you have lowered the car though, or drive it hard, i recommend Raxles. Lowering the car changes the geometry and stock axles will be too long (if you lower it more than an inch or two).
Where can I find the axel nuts, 6 I believe!
Do some internet searching. Prolly Urotuning, KermaTDI, IDparts, or maybe even advance Napa or one of those places
@@hestermannmotorwerks thank you!!
@@hestermannmotorwerks quick question, my axel came off, but only the nuts were gone. What could’ve caused the nuts to go flying?
I assume you are talking about the 6 bolts that go into the trans flange, probably weren’t torqued properly.
What size triple square you use ?
BigBoyHonda if memory serves, this is a 10mm but some VWs have 8s and some 12s
Hi I have a 07 2.5 beetle manual and I just watched your video and wanted to know if that axle on mk4 Will fit on the 07 2.5 beetle or does the length same cause I've contacted Raxles and they don't have for 07 2.5 beetle it looks the same but not sure if the length same just finding ways to fix my lowered /broken axle (half shaft)situations or if you know any other ways to fix the problem..pls help
Tony, sorry I don't know if they are the same. I suspect not but VWs are kinda like legos. You have to check the length, the splines on the hub end (that they match the hub) and then the flange where it bolts to the transmission. Those are the common places that they are different. Sorry I don't have a better suggestion for you.
thanks,will do more research
I guess I could get a mk4 axle somewhere and compare it side by side with my axle
You did pack the inner cup that has ball bearings full of grease yea?
Good point! This particular set was already packed and have a cap much like the auto axles do. Sometimes they come dry and you have to pack them yourself before installing. Usually the manual axles don't have a cap on the inner joint. It seals against the drive flange on the transmission. Either way, Everyone should check that the inner bearing set is packed with clean grease before installing on the transmission.
Im confused even with "hard driving and lowered" you're having to replace the axles every two months? Or you are saying that this is the second set of axles because the first set was poor quality?
When you lower the car more than 1.5/2 inches, the stock axles are too long. every time you hit a bump, the inner joint slams into the cup as the suspension flexes. Add that the owner regularly flogs this thing, the axles didn't last long. They were not high quality axles but they failed because the car was lowered more than 2 inches. So they failed in 2 months. The Raxles I put in were made to match the changed geometry from the car being lowered. They are actually just a little bit shorter.
Will the car need an alignment afterwards?
Yes you should get an alignment. You can get it pretty close by marking the bolt heads on the ball joint and then matching those marks when reassembling though
@@hestermannmotorwerks Thanks for the reply
How's the raxle so far? Just purchased my left and right axle for my 03 GLI. Hopefully it's worth the bucks
+InitialXG going strong! love these Raxles. I think this was the best solution for the lowered stance of this car. If it wasn't so lowered, a standard axle may have been good enough. Car has been from Jacksonville to Miami to Pensacola and back to jacksonville with no issues!
Cool! Thanks for responding. It's a pretty penny for these axles so I'm a bit concerned. I have a lowered 03 GLI on fully adjustable konis. I've had to change my axles twice already in the past 2 years. This is the third and I'm hoping the last for awhile.
If you told Marty at Raxles about your ride height, I'm sure he adjusted the length and they will last a lot longer! Yeah they aren't cheap but when you consider you'd go through at least two stockers and the time to change them, it turns out to be a good deal IMHO. If you do have an issue with your Raxles, call them and see if they will help you. They have a pretty good warranty.
You did the axles how long ago??? Why did you edit that part out when you were about to say how long ago you just did them?? That wouldnt have anything to do with the quality of the Raxles shafts now would it??
I had done the auto parts store cheap axles just a couple months prior. At the time, I discussed with the driver that the coil overs on the lowest setting was putting high stress on the CV joints. He liked the way it looked and wanted to leave the car lowered. So combined between the stock length and the lower quality joints (auto parts store brand) the inner joint blew apart. When he came back to me to get the car fixed, I recommended the RAXLES. Two reasons, 1) custom length (in this case slightly shorter) to make up for the lowered suspension, and 2)the higher quality CJ joint he should not have any more issues. Parts store brand axles often will get 75-90000 miles out of them but that is usually on stock height suspension. Not trying to knock them, they do work in the correct application but this car is not one of them. If I didn't describe that clearly, let me know!
Hestermann Motorwerks. perfect explanation just wanted to make sure they weren't Raxles that he just replaced.
So with the car being lowered does that make for more complications for this process?.. Did you have to raise the car or was it fine to work on well lowered?
where can i order CV Joint Bolt Axle to Trans for mk4 vr6 12v
ZACHARY YORK I’d try www.IDparts.com, www.partsplace.com
Or www.ECS.com. There are plenty of other places too. Your local NAPA can probably get them for pretty reasonable
ZACHARY YORK sorry I typed one of those websites wrong, parts place is actually www.partsplaceinc.com
Approx how much much are the Raxle shafts?
I'd recommend you call Marty at Raxles but if I remember right they were around $200 each. Rebuilt knock offs are usually about $70 each and OEM axles range from $250-700 depending where you get them. IMO Raxles sound expensive but you are getting a custom axle that will outlast anything else. Highly recommend you call Raxles though and they'll give you a quick quote. Very possible I'm off here on pricing and even among MK4 VWs there are several different styles. Prices will probably vary depending on which ones you are looking for.
Unfortunately my Raxles didn't last long at all before I had cv boots breaking. I hope yours last longer.
Make sure it's a 12 point 30mm , because the 6 point does not fit.
Thats true, most of the MK 4 VWs came stock with a 12 pt 30 MM nut. But most of the aftermarket axles come with a 6 point. You can use a 12 point socket on a 6 point nut but not the other way around. Then of course to confuse things just a bit more, there are a few 6 speed axles that actually have a bolt instead of a nut. They are all 6 point but are slightly smaller. I think 28 MM. bottom line, check what kind of nuts/bolts you have before buying or borrowing a socket to do the job.
Just ran into that yesterday, had to make a second trip to the store, not a big deal and a learning opportunity :D Thanks!
Where did you buy the cv joint?
in this video I'm installing the top of the line axles from a company called Raxles. in my opinion they are worth it. call Marty at 1-800-257-8192 or Email: sales@raxles.com to get a quote. you can buy after market axles from Napa, Auto Zone or any of those places. If you have lowered the car though, or drive it hard, i recommend Raxles. Lowering the car changes the geometry and stock axles will be too long (if you lower it more than an inch or two).
How much are Raxels where can I get then
Gandy Ortiz depends on the car but usually about twice as much as the cheap ones at Autozone or wherever. Online at Raxles.com or call the number on the website. Marty is the man
How long does this take and what should you expect to pay? I have an 02 jetta and I need a passenger axle
Maurice Hancock if you are doing it for the first time, maybe 2 hours. If you've done it a few times, probably an hour. Axles range from $60 to $300.
What size triple square where those
Most are 8mm but some on 10s. This one in particular is 10 mm. If you own a Vw, I recommend getting the 8,10,12 mm set commonly found at auto parts stores
I just changed mine like 2 months ago and now it’s clicking again smh
Tony Jones it may be the other side (usually the inside axle clicks when in a turn) or it maybe too long an axle. If the car is lowered more than 2 inches or so, the axles need to be shorter to make up for the geometry change. That’s exactly why the car in the video was getting a third set!
hesty32 thanks a lot. I think what was causing it was the motor mounts. Next job, heater core.
is this car a 6 speed ?
AFCA020 yes it is. 02M transmission 6 speed.
hesty32 thanks for the info 😁
yes this is a 6 speed. 02M transmission.
1/6 th is not 60degrees if 360degrees is whole turn 60 degrees is 1/4 turn .60 x4=360
just to mention im no brainiac
I don't quite follow that math, I thought 60 degrees x 4= 240 degrees and 90 x 4 = 360 but it has been a long time since I was in school