FYI Use a ice pick, or sharp point carpenters awl, or sharp marking scribe to catch that annoying time consuming lock ring on the govonor post and drive it DOWN. When it is driven down, it pops open enough to then pry off with the same sharp point tool. Takes a few seconds. I wrapped a piece of rag down in there, so it couldn't spring into the crank case. Also, a dab of any grease on a cotton swab, piece of rag, or screw driver will pick up most inadvertant debris or shavings. I put the whole engine back together, and had to take it back apart because I forgot to remove that little spacer washer at the bottom of the shaft. Fortunately, it had not migrated around in the engine. Thank you for your excellent "how to" it worked for me!
WRONG, WRONG .: TO REMOVE GOVERNOR SHAFT Take the flywheel off, then punch out the shaft, which will fall out inside the motor including the cog wheel. that's it. !
watched 10 videos of people breaking them out ... popped the flywheel and tapped the whole gear assembly into the case from outside in a bout 30 seconds including rattling the sheet metal and flywheel off lol
The 3rd and most easy way to remove the governor is to remove the linkage that connects the governor arm to the throttle arm on the carburetor. By using the original manual throttle control arm (supplied with predator 212 ) as a perfect place to drill a small hole and relocate the cable connector that are in the wrong place for a minibike throttle. So the original throttle cable clamps to the throttle control assembly on the engine. Its cable pulls the arm to control the throttle and a compression spring returns it to ithe dle stop position. You just need to make a small offset bend in a bicycle spoke to make a pushrod to connect throttle control arm to the carburetor throttle arm. Now when you give it the gas, no governor is interfering. Meanwhile it (the governer) still has its arm, gears and its hapoy thinking its doing its job. Too much trouble disassembling engine. But there are 1000 different ways to skin a cat. Good video, i still watched as you offer much to learn from, and keep up the good work.
Good comment Totally agree on the 'guvner'. Not worth the trouble and possible f-up on a new engine. Maybe at the first required tear down. Same for oil sensor. Just disconnect.Good video though. Tnx.
I have no idea why so many do it this way messing with that clip. I would rather pull the flywheel and punch the governor assembly out and plug the hole. You could pull the blower housing, flywheel and tank off before you take the side cover off. Once the side cover is off you simply punch the governor assembly out from the back after you move the crank into position. Easy.
Magnetizing a screwdriver can be done by coiling a wire completely covering the shaft. Ten sparking te wire across positive and negative of a 12v battery.
Okay but like I started the same time you did once I saw you could use a flat head and in that time the whole sponge Bob time card skip part of the video was all the time I needed to pull off the governor. Thank you for the laughs and the tips
i gotta get this ducar gov out buddy cat the thing is demonic i went for a ride shut my bike off and the thing started making noises with the bike completley off i was pushing down my driveway and it started making noise again mind u this is a min after the motor was completley turned off lol wtf is that about
Fantastic. Love the now obvious logic of keeping that oil sensor plug in place. could the same be done on the governor arm even in the vent you werent keeping the stock throttle items in place? Thankas for the great video!
You answered questions that I didn't ask thank you I was wondering about that extra gear in the motor and how that governor worked good way to explain it
Great Videos ! helping out alot ! Do I have to remove the oil sensor? here in Florida just flat roads etc. If not how do I hook up the kill switch?thanks
Did You know you can take the flywheel off tap out that Governor pin with a punch and thread a quarter inch by 1 inch long bolt in that hole without a tap but I recommend after you throw the bolt in unbolt that bolt install Red loctite on the bolt and reinstall the bolt that same size bolt will fit the Governor arm hole after removing the governor arm I've had great success doing it this way especially considering the fact that I'm using a mikuni style carburetor I've been doing this stuff since I was like five and I just turned 20 back in August
Hey man I pull governor's out these motors everyday. You can cut that Governor arm from the top of the motor. You have enough room to pull it out the bottom end. You can still use the stock throttle all you do is hook a new rod from the butterfly off the carburetor into the throttle arm and also run a spring from that butterfly to the throttle arm works perfect. If you do that you can leave the gear. There isn't anything to activate it.
Torque spec for crankcase bolts is 17ftlbs. It should be torqued in a criss-cross pattern (just like you tighten your lug nuts). Can you just disconnect the governor linkage and preload it with a spring to keep it on the inertial actuator in the case without breaking your case open? I have read that the GX200 clones are good to ~5500rpm with stock internals.
Hey bro thanks for your video it’s been very helpfull .im new to the mini bike scene and have put together my first bike.after watching this I’m confident I can get it done but now that you showed the zip tie trick that seems to be the quick choice.is there any difference from the simple method vs removing the governor from inside the case that you demonstrated?thanks
The difference is like they said, removing the side cover allows you access to pull the low oil sensor/kill.. Otherwise you could stall out over rough terrain, or hard turns..
After removing the oil sensor and snip the yellow wire you mentioned keeping the yellow connector for a monster moto 80 cut off switch on the handle bars. Do you have a video showing how to install that part?
I bought a new billet rod and it slightly hits my sensor and causes it to shut the engine down. I'm not 100% sure thats the exact problem but its the only thing I can think of. Arc billet side cover is better.
My gasket tore apart completely and left behind a bunch of small pieces of gasket on both mating faces, what is the best way to remove those without damaging those surfaces?
Pretty much. The zip tie prevents the governor from pulling the throttle toward the closed position. But there is still the concern that some have that there is the possibility of the governor gear to come apart at higher RPM.
Define "better". Zip tie-ing doesn't involve opening the case. Opening the case doesn't leave any spinny bits inside your case that are now destined to exceed their design RPM. It all depends on how comfortable you are with what you are doing. Personally - zip tie it and go!
I won't use my minibike off road so it is nice to be able to have an external option to control the governor and leave everything in place inside the crankcase. Grassy ass for this vide.
So when you do this dont do what I did... the cam thing fell out and the rods and what not came out, when I went to put it back in I didn't line up the 2 dots... then when I did line them up I didn't set the thing to top center so my valves are off and it won't start.
Are you sure you don't need to remove that governor arm? I was gonna take it out, cut the end off before the curve and put it back in to seal the hole (and still use the stock throttle linkage). But if I can leave it in without issue I'll do that instead.
@@cookski27 Massive difference. I had my governor adjusted to turn just shy of 5k, without it I'm getting 6500+. Keep in mind I have MOD2 cam and 22lb springs. If you take the governor out and upgrade the springs, you have to upgrade the flywheel and ideally the rod as well.
Great video. I am looking into getting this engine for my minibike I’m restoring. After removing the governor are there any other parts that should be changed to avoid blowing the thing blowing up?
James A , removing the governor really means you need to make peace with the fact that it could blow up. That being said, valve float will limit your top RPM, and if you put stronger valve springs in you’ll then be pushing the limits of the flywheel and rod. So, if you want to go all out: 30+lb valve springs, billet flywheel, billet rod, upgraded rockers. Etc.
Let's Build That! Thanks for the input. Would you suggest the hemi or non hemi verison? The hemi is available to buy right now at my local hf the non hemi isn’t. It seems to be backordered. I would probably just end up doing a stage 1 air,exhaust and rejet. It wont be for racing. The upgraded flywheel pretty much costs more than the entire engine. Haha
Let's Build That! Man I wish I knew that the other day haha. They had a hemi in stock. I said No thanks I’ll look for a non hemi. Now... about 8 stores around me have none! Zip.... no 212 engines in stock. Had to order it and 2 week delay. Now I’m sitting here with a frame on the bench waiting for an engine. Not even sure if it will fit or not. 😤
IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT THAT WOULD BLESS MY LIFE, if you put the tip tie on the spring and it eliminates the governor. Is there really a need to go in the engine and take it out? genuinely curious someone help‼️
i never took any parts out of mine and they spin up to where the valves start to float. and the oil sensors i never take out in case I roll one of my many converted quads.
Hey @let’sbuildthat I did this governor removal on my predator and now it only wants to take off at full throttle I’m at a loss for what I should do any thoughts On what I should do to fix the problem
FYI Use a ice pick, or sharp point carpenters awl, or sharp marking scribe to catch that annoying time consuming lock ring on the govonor post and drive it DOWN. When it is driven down, it pops open enough to then pry off with the same sharp point tool. Takes a few seconds. I wrapped a piece of rag down in there, so it couldn't spring into the crank case. Also, a dab of any grease on a cotton swab, piece of rag, or screw driver will pick up most inadvertant debris or shavings. I put the whole engine back together, and had to take it back apart because I forgot to remove that little spacer washer at the bottom of the shaft. Fortunately, it had not migrated around in the engine. Thank you for your excellent "how to" it worked for me!
WRONG, WRONG .: TO REMOVE GOVERNOR SHAFT Take the flywheel off, then punch out the shaft, which will fall out inside the motor including the cog wheel. that's it. !
That low oil sensor hole is an ideal place to put a 1/8npt hose barb...for vacuum pulse...for a fuel pump.
watched 10 videos of people breaking them out ... popped the flywheel and tapped the whole gear assembly into the case from outside in a bout 30 seconds including rattling the sheet metal and flywheel off lol
Finally someone who does it exactly how I do to a "T" I've watched like 6 vids jus to compare. No need to complicate things. Good video!
The 3rd and most easy way to remove the governor is to remove the linkage that connects the governor arm to the throttle arm on the carburetor. By using the original manual throttle control arm (supplied with predator 212 ) as a perfect place to drill a small hole and relocate the cable connector that are in the wrong place for a minibike throttle. So the original throttle cable clamps to the throttle control assembly on the engine. Its cable pulls the arm to control the throttle and a compression spring returns it to ithe dle stop position. You just need to make a small offset bend in a bicycle spoke to make a pushrod to connect throttle control arm to the carburetor throttle arm. Now when you give it the gas, no governor is interfering. Meanwhile it (the governer) still has its arm, gears and its hapoy thinking its doing its job. Too much trouble disassembling engine. But there are 1000 different ways to skin a cat. Good video, i still watched as you offer much to learn from, and keep up the good work.
Good comment Totally agree on the 'guvner'. Not worth the trouble and possible f-up on a new engine. Maybe at the first required tear down. Same for oil sensor. Just disconnect.Good video though. Tnx.
He looks like an inmate making a shank about half way through the video.
I have no idea why so many do it this way messing with that clip. I would rather pull the flywheel and punch the governor assembly out and plug the hole. You could pull the blower housing, flywheel and tank off before you take the side cover off. Once the side cover is off you simply punch the governor assembly out from the back after you move the crank into position. Easy.
I pull flywheel and knock gear out from behind the flywheel I then push Sam rod from plastic gear back in the hole
Magnetizing a screwdriver can be done by coiling a wire completely covering the shaft. Ten sparking te wire across positive and negative of a 12v battery.
Best video I've seen on doing this. After watching this I finally had the nerves to do it. Worked out perfectly!!! Keep these videos coming please.
Best video out there now I think I can do it my self.very good tutorial l 😊 love it keep doing this tutorial vid
Okay but like I started the same time you did once I saw you could use a flat head and in that time the whole sponge Bob time card skip part of the video was all the time I needed to pull off the governor. Thank you for the laughs and the tips
You guys are awesome! Love the coveralls, you guys fit right in with the mini bike lifestyle.
i gotta get this ducar gov out buddy cat the thing is demonic i went for a ride shut my bike off and the thing started making noises with the bike completley off i was pushing down my driveway and it started making noise again mind u this is a min after the motor was completley turned off lol wtf is that about
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 whhhhaaaat?!?! 🤯
That's crazy.
@@fatbuddycat unless my flywheel cover is to tight not sure what it could be its like a grinding stuck sound 🙄
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 I would definitely investigate immediately!
@@fatbuddycat no ideas its gotta be that plastic gov gear right i mean when i take the ziptie off it dosent do it
by far the best video i’ve seen on the subject, great explanations
Fantastic. Love the now obvious logic of keeping that oil sensor plug in place. could the same be done on the governor arm even in the vent you werent keeping the stock throttle items in place? Thankas for the great video!
For the snap ring on the governor gear I found to make quick work of it that you can use a cheap small harbor freight wood chisel.
The governor bar that hangs down when you're done, I just took it out and cut it. And then put the little piece that comes out of the motor back in
you can bump the side cover off with a mallet and preserve the gasket.
You answered questions that I didn't ask thank you I was wondering about that extra gear in the motor and how that governor worked good way to explain it
This is the only video that has helped me thank you so much!!
Best video I found on explaining this 👍
What were you in prison for?
Killing a Governor !!! 😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️😂❤️
@@JodBronson I love this comment
@@SpencerA99 - 😂😂😂😂😂
@@JodBronson Now thats funny...
@@lazydog1964 - 😂😂😂😂😂
To prevent the bolt plug from jamming up your engine you can bust out the like 125 Flux core wire buddy and kill the nut.
That last lil washer is always a pain for me...sometimes takes me longer to get the washer then to remove the gear and cut the arm....lol
how did you do it
Extremely helpful, thank you!
Great Videos ! helping out alot ! Do I have to remove the oil sensor? here in Florida just flat roads etc. If not how do I hook up the kill switch?thanks
Theres a new fangled thing called lights. Its great for dark places!
Did You know you can take the flywheel off tap out that Governor pin with a punch and thread a quarter inch by 1 inch long bolt in that hole without a tap but I recommend after you throw the bolt in unbolt that bolt install Red loctite on the bolt and reinstall the bolt that same size bolt will fit the Governor arm hole after removing the governor arm I've had great success doing it this way especially considering the fact that I'm using a mikuni style carburetor I've been doing this stuff since I was like five and I just turned 20 back in August
Hey man I pull governor's out these motors everyday. You can cut that Governor arm from the top of the motor. You have enough room to pull it out the bottom end. You can still use the stock throttle all you do is hook a new rod from the butterfly off the carburetor into the throttle arm and also run a spring from that butterfly to the throttle arm works perfect. If you do that you can leave the gear. There isn't anything to activate it.
Isn't the concern that the plastic gear will just shatter at higher RPMs?
@@rodneyws1977 no some motors the cam gear is made out same material. Not really plastic
To pull it out without cutting rotate crank, there is a spot where it drops out
Greeting from Melissa! Thanks for the help great information! SENDING THE SUBSCRIPTION
Excellent video guys!
good vid bros cant u just vac the debris out or use compressed air somehow then relube her up
Sees zip tie trick and immediately likes and turns off video 👍🏾
you guys should of posted videos of you riding it
Torque spec for crankcase bolts is 17ftlbs. It should be torqued in a criss-cross pattern (just like you tighten your lug nuts). Can you just disconnect the governor linkage and preload it with a spring to keep it on the inertial actuator in the case without breaking your case open? I have read that the GX200 clones are good to ~5500rpm with stock internals.
is there a better way to remove the little washer after you remove the governor?
I had a question: When you zip tie the governor spring does it stop the throttle from going into full throttle?
i was wondering the same, did u ever figure that out ?
Hey bro thanks for your video it’s been very helpfull .im new to the mini bike scene and have put together my first bike.after watching this I’m confident I can get it done but now that you showed the zip tie trick that seems to be the quick choice.is there any difference from the simple method vs removing the governor from inside the case that you demonstrated?thanks
The difference is like they said, removing the side cover allows you access to pull the low oil sensor/kill.. Otherwise you could stall out over rough terrain, or hard turns..
Me too,,, hahaha! @ 60yo.🤣🙃😎
@@Hoopty91 You don't have to remove the oil low sensor if you don't want to open the engine. Just cut the wire on the side of the block.
nice but don't forget to talk about torque / tightening secquence
After removing the oil sensor and snip the yellow wire you mentioned keeping the yellow connector for a monster moto 80 cut off switch on the handle bars. Do you have a video showing how to install that part?
I bought a new billet rod and it slightly hits my sensor and causes it to shut the engine down. I'm not 100% sure thats the exact problem but its the only thing I can think of. Arc billet side cover is better.
Wait... So the ziptie on the spring bypasses all effects of the governor?
Yes.
@@LetsBuildThat Thanks. Appreciate the response.
So what happens if you don’t remove pieces of governor inside with it explode?
My crank is in the way of the oil’s sensor, can I freely spin it upward to give me the room to slide it out?
My gasket tore apart completely and left behind a bunch of small pieces of gasket on both mating faces, what is the best way to remove those without damaging those surfaces?
After getting a cam, pvl flywheel , rod and 22lb springs should i upgrade rockers to or will i be fine
If u let the arm gouvernor like this its like just a by-pass or its completly removed ?
So the zip tie does exactly the same as removing the govenor ?
Pretty much. The zip tie prevents the governor from pulling the throttle toward the closed position. But there is still the concern that some have that there is the possibility of the governor gear to come apart at higher RPM.
Is it better to zip tie the spring thing or completely remove the internal pary
Define "better". Zip tie-ing doesn't involve opening the case. Opening the case doesn't leave any spinny bits inside your case that are now destined to exceed their design RPM. It all depends on how comfortable you are with what you are doing. Personally - zip tie it and go!
Can you use hand tools, effectively, remove. If not, zip. Removal is best
I won't use my minibike off road so it is nice to be able to have an external option to control the governor and leave everything in place inside the crankcase. Grassy ass for this vide.
So when you do this dont do what I did... the cam thing fell out and the rods and what not came out, when I went to put it back in I didn't line up the 2 dots... then when I did line them up I didn't set the thing to top center so my valves are off and it won't start.
RIP
How do you set it to top centre?
👍
Hey I’ve never herd it called a rattle gun just curious where you guys from?
Get the all the metal out and run it and for alittle bit drain the oil and you'll be good
So if you cage the governor spring, it will increase top RPM? Just want to clarify.
Are you sure you don't need to remove that governor arm? I was gonna take it out, cut the end off before the curve and put it back in to seal the hole (and still use the stock throttle linkage). But if I can leave it in without issue I'll do that instead.
What did you end up doing with the arm, did you leave it in or take it out?
@@cookski27 I left mine in. Didn't need to tap a new hole or cut the arm, and I can still use the stock throttle linkage. No problems at all.
@@BunkerBlog OK thank Bro 😉👊 can you feel a different in engine speed with governor out? , also have you done 18lb springs?
@@cookski27 Massive difference. I had my governor adjusted to turn just shy of 5k, without it I'm getting 6500+. Keep in mind I have MOD2 cam and 22lb springs. If you take the governor out and upgrade the springs, you have to upgrade the flywheel and ideally the rod as well.
Zip tie is not a solution , it's a hack, a shit one
Would the engine continue running after Just snipping the yellow wire from the outside? I’m new to this i don’t know much lol
End the circuit can’t
Yes
Did ypu just escape from the county jail? Your still wearing the jump suite 😮😊
Very helpful vid 👍
Great video. I am looking into getting this engine for my minibike I’m restoring. After removing the governor are there any other parts that should be changed to avoid blowing the thing blowing up?
James A , removing the governor really means you need to make peace with the fact that it could blow up. That being said, valve float will limit your top RPM, and if you put stronger valve springs in you’ll then be pushing the limits of the flywheel and rod. So, if you want to go all out: 30+lb valve springs, billet flywheel, billet rod, upgraded rockers. Etc.
Let's Build That! Thanks for the input. Would you suggest the hemi or non hemi verison? The hemi is available to buy right now at my local hf the non hemi isn’t. It seems to be backordered. I would probably just end up doing a stage 1 air,exhaust and rejet. It wont be for racing. The upgraded flywheel pretty much costs more than the entire engine. Haha
@@jamesa6272 It's all the same. Whichever your store has in stock.
Let's Build That! Man I wish I knew that the other day haha. They had a hemi in stock. I said No thanks I’ll look for a non hemi. Now... about 8 stores around me have none! Zip.... no 212 engines in stock. Had to order it and 2 week delay. Now I’m sitting here with a frame on the bench waiting for an engine. Not even sure if it will fit or not. 😤
@@LetsBuildThat no, get rpm gage and keep it under 7000rpm, you can push 9000-10000 with the added parts
IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT THAT WOULD BLESS MY LIFE, if you put the tip tie on the spring and it eliminates the governor. Is there really a need to go in the engine and take it out? genuinely curious someone help‼️
Zip tie is a band aid, removal is fix
What is there a second dipstick? Is there a specific use for it?
In case the engine is mounted where access is blocked on one side.
i did it to mine and it wont run how would i fix it
Geez take out the flywheel and bang out governor from back
i never took any parts out of mine and they spin up to where the valves start to float. and the oil sensors i never take out in case I roll one of my many converted quads.
If I just cut the yellow wire will it mess up the kill switch that’s already on the engine?
No it will not
Oil is spraying out of my oil sensor like 5ft
Can I just clip yellow oil sensor and be ok
Yes or just unplug it
Hey @let’sbuildthat I did this governor removal on my predator and now it only wants to take off at full throttle I’m at a loss for what I should do any thoughts On what I should do to fix the problem
hey i know this is a year ago but i’m having this issue did you even find out what went wrong? i need help!
@@redpill9766 you have to put a return spring on it to return to idle !
Get a vm 22 carb kit ebay 24 bucks
First day out
Couldn’t you just cut that bar clean out the case and call it a day?
Hey you could have just hammered the governor out from the other side
There are more ways than one to skin a cat.
Damn someones out on work detail .
are you in a crossfit gym?
I have a home gym in my garage. LoL
Easy snap ring leter😂😂
holy #@$@ thank you
0:30 HAHAHAHAHAA
A@s.w0azada
Zvz
Bjr c issaabdou cava❤
Insane they used a 8 mill complete fools
Just ordered a new Governor because customers is tired of his kids blowing it up all the time and they have destroyed 4 engines in a year Lololo
Hindi ma
You seriously need an editor. Tired of fast forwarding. Editor!!!🤔
and a camera man who can pull focus better lmao the camera man has a full blown real cam and cant use geeez