The issue there is the getting the amount correct, making sure it’s at the right height so as to not throw the balance one way or another. Getting the density of the screw right. It’s an endless amount of time invested trying to get a desired result. That’s what makes this mod highly unpractical.
If someone did drill cross ways and it didn't work, you could always tap them and install set screws or a piece of all thread. Same with drilling them length ways. Good information, thanks for sharing!
Extremely difficult to get them rebalanced when you remove material and try to replace it. That’s why starting out reeeeeeealy small and work up is the best way. Going in the ends makes it much easier to get weight back (on both sides) and at an amount that won’t throw off the balance of the weighted air valve. Extremely time consuming and not always guaranteed to get the results you’re after. Which is why I’ll never recommend this process, but at least wanted to show it and the best case scenario for the modification.
The other part of doing it the right way, is if you go too far, with a tap and die set you can always add hex screws as well with some loctite to make sure it doesn't back out. But the solder part, yeah! That would work brilliantly! Again, thanks for posting this one.
I feel like this video may have been inspired by our comments on the secondary fueling video. This may be the fix for my low rpm motor. Thank you. I’ll be giving this a go one of these days.
I had a very long conversation with someone over the weekend that thought it the solution for his WOT transition. It wasn’t. But it reminded me about this modification and I haven’t covered the topic yet so here we are! On anything low rpm like a work truck/yard dog/etc, this is likely not going to be much of a help. More for those transition points to go wide open in more performance applications.
I don't know what the side pieces are made out of but if you drilled the holes like step one it is possible to fill them back up with weld. If they're steel a piece of copper to back it with and a MIG welder will fill it in nicely
After seeing the two different ways to modify the weighted air valve, i definitely like the second way, brilliant, looks pretty easy to put back, just make sure to take your time and keep the drill in the weight, good video Bone, thanks for sharing
It’s a little less complicated, but still difficult as getting the balance back right can be a very long process. But something to consider if literally everything else is not getting the desired result. Thank you sir!
I'm running 2 of the AVS thunder series been working great for the past 6 years, enjoy your videos, looking forward to seeing the new Edelbrock carb video, keep them coming
Great Video. Thank you. Please do another Video about squirter in relation to the throttle linkage. Maybe you could recommend a way to set up the right way? I know, drive, check, repeat... but you' ve a amazing knowledge of carbs and could give some advice on how to do. Best regards. Felix/oversea germany
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes, I have a 283 sbc with 305 world s/r cast. I learned my lesson. Don't blame the shop but now I am to be on my own. Get 4 steps leaner on1# and 1 step leaner on2# . 1404 Edl. Afr okay, but sometimes under load it sounds lean. A. pump hole helps a littel bit. I even tried several timing curves. Any assist would be great. I am very thankful.
The placement of the weight reduction holes is critical. If you drilled and tapped the holes, set screws can be installed for tuning. There is a market to be had making tunable weights.
Unfortunately it’s got limited value. Reason being is the rest of the systems on the carb just don’t support it. It doesn’t meter large volumes of fuel like on a 4150 series carburetor. It was designed originally as a stock carburetor for the OEs and it morphed a little into more performance, but the general attributes remained the same. Needs more fuel capacity. Ability to add more pump shot. Ability to add more fuel on the secondary side. Less restriction with a metering rod system (which is centered on economy). Some of those can be tweaked, but it’s still very much designed around what an OE needed way back when it was designed. Just don’t have the need for that type of tuning on these carbs. Which is why I hope I expressed enough in this video to not make this mod!
@@MuscleCarSolutions it would be interesting to see what could be modified on these carbs like you were saying. Maybe a secondary accelerator pump, maybe annular boosters in the secondaries as well. I would be interested in what ideas you have to make a better performance carb out of it and still keep the tuneability of the jets and rods that work so well. I also like that you don't have to drain the float bowls to change jets.
@@jamesford2942 those are good questions. What still blows me away in a market where carburetors are dying, Edelbrock invested a lot of money to redesign the performer series carb and add in annular boosters and the AVS. All to make a better driving experience carb. Then again to go completely against the grain and design, test and bring to market an amazing new carburetor in the VRS. All in a category that is on the decline and heading to EFI and if the government has its way, to the death of internal combustion engines. I’m not sure how deep that well goes, but maybe we will see another upgraded design on the AVS2. I’m quite sure since they’ve knocked the last two out of the park that a new one would be no less exciting.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I think that the new Edelbrock carburetors seem to be well developed. I'm looking at one of the 500 CFM AVS2 carbs for my 318. I actually want to put an open plenum tunnel ram on it and use a matched pair of the AVS2 carbs with manual choke on it. I want to try progressive linkage on it as well.
hello my friend, the videl is very good, I bought a used edelbrock 1406 carburetor and it is without the air valve, will it work badly without the air valve? I'm from Colombia and you can't get these valves here, is there a page or a group where I can get them and have them send them to Colombia? Thank you
Awesome video sir, thanks for the info. I had a question, I have an edelbrock AVS 2 but it has some damage to it. But all the components inside are fine, I was wondering if I could swap the annular boosters from the AVS and put them into an edelbrock Performer carburetor I have that is new and has never been used? Could I swap the secondaries as well? Thanks
No and no, are the short answers. I’ll end up doing a video on the boosters but long story short is there’s a reason why the AVS2 is slightly bigger. The annular booster needs more airspeed to properly meter fuel. As far as swapping over the air valve on the secondary, I just don’t think you’ll ever get it to operate properly.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok well thanks for the fast reply I really appreciate it. Man now I have to decide whether I want to use the Performer I already have or buy another AVS. What do you think?
@@williamaldapa5648 I guess it all depends on what you want to do. The performer series carb is still one of the best street carburetors on the market. If you have one, it wouldn’t be a bad choice to use it.
Edelbrocks do not have secondary squirters, If you make the weight to light it will lean out cracking in to the secondary's and probly backfire thru carb, I had to make the flaps sit flatter and harder to open on my blower motor because blowers have a stronger signal than normally aspirated, And you dont want to go lean on a huffer engine.
I think you’re a little confused on how the weighted air valve works. Fuel doesn’t flow through the secondary boosters until the targeted air starts flowing. The air valve is what triggers that air flow, based on the vacuum drop in the engine. Snapping the blades open quicker gets the air flow quicker (in theory) to the booster when weight is removed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions There are large gaps in flaps air leaks around to draw fuel before flaps start opening when wide open, but then again, Just leave the flaps out and see what happens?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I was just wondering what you would suggest! I did not say I even have a carburetor to work on! My point being that manual transmission do better with weight taken off and automatics do better with weight added on, or so I have heard. Anyway, I thought you might of done some research on it. I guess I was totally off my rocker to ask such a great mechanic as you, lol!
Did you mention grinding the upper ears down, before any drilling? Check the video closely, he doesn't mention grinding the "elf" ears off of the rear weight tops, before any drilling or weighing.
No, I don’t mention it and even more than drilling, I don’t recommend. At least with the drill mod done the right way you can put some weight back if needed. Grinding is just going to end up worse as there’s no way to take a step back if needed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Which is why I ask why you didn't mention, that you, or someone you work with, ground off the tips of the weights prior to drilling? You can see, that each instance of drilling method, the tips were ground off, but were intact prior.
@@MrRVRclubprez incorrect. I don’t have an endless supply of those laying around and had to break down a couple carbs to get these. What you saw were ones from a 600 and a 500. They have different shapes because they open at different rates.
The only issue with that is what you’re screwing in has more density and will throw off the balance of the weight even more. Endless amounts of time trying to get it back to where it was.
Sometimes the money isn’t available and sometimes people work with what they have. There’s also the challenge to modify an item rather than just spending more money. Not everyone can throw money at a problem (real or not) like the US government does at it problems. (Real or not) It’s always easy to just suggest spending money. Something not everyone has.
You can, but getting the weight back to the balance it had with the right amount and density of material is the tricky part. It’s generally easier to huck the think it the scrap bin and go find another one. Or invest a lot of time in it.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Could always tap the hole if you drill it too big and put a set screw in to add weight back and peen it in with a center punch so it cannot come out.
The issue there is the getting the amount correct, making sure it’s at the right height so as to not throw the balance one way or another. Getting the density of the screw right. It’s an endless amount of time invested trying to get a desired result. That’s what makes this mod highly unpractical.
If someone did drill cross ways and it didn't work, you could always tap them and install set screws or a piece of all thread. Same with drilling them length ways. Good information, thanks for sharing!
Extremely difficult to get them rebalanced when you remove material and try to replace it. That’s why starting out reeeeeeealy small and work up is the best way. Going in the ends makes it much easier to get weight back (on both sides) and at an amount that won’t throw off the balance of the weighted air valve. Extremely time consuming and not always guaranteed to get the results you’re after. Which is why I’ll never recommend this process, but at least wanted to show it and the best case scenario for the modification.
came back to this video. this should have 100k more views than it does. really solid info here man
I’m terrified that it’s got 10k views. 😂 I really hope that many folks haven’t tried this.
The other part of doing it the right way, is if you go too far, with a tap and die set you can always add hex screws as well with some loctite to make sure it doesn't back out. But the solder part, yeah! That would work brilliantly! Again, thanks for posting this one.
I feel like this video may have been inspired by our comments on the secondary fueling video. This may be the fix for my low rpm motor. Thank you. I’ll be giving this a go one of these days.
I had a very long conversation with someone over the weekend that thought it the solution for his WOT transition. It wasn’t. But it reminded me about this modification and I haven’t covered the topic yet so here we are! On anything low rpm like a work truck/yard dog/etc, this is likely not going to be much of a help. More for those transition points to go wide open in more performance applications.
I don't know what the side pieces are made out of but if you drilled the holes like step one it is possible to fill them back up with weld. If they're steel a piece of copper to back it with and a MIG welder will fill it in nicely
After seeing the two different ways to modify the weighted air valve, i definitely like the second way, brilliant, looks pretty easy to put back, just make sure to take your time and keep the drill in the weight, good video Bone, thanks for sharing
It’s a little less complicated, but still difficult as getting the balance back right can be a very long process. But something to consider if literally everything else is not getting the desired result. Thank you sir!
@@MuscleCarSolutions 👍👍
very interesting material. would have never thought to make this mod. thanks
It can be tricky and frustrating. But in those rare situations…..it does work!
I'm running 2 of the AVS thunder series been working great for the past 6 years, enjoy your videos, looking forward to seeing the new Edelbrock carb video, keep them coming
Many thanks John! Should be done very soon!
Love the video. And wow! So close to 10K!!! Anywho, great mod advice. This is some excellent information! Thanks for putting this one together.
Well hopefully I put enough warnings in there that someone won’t blame me when they do it and find out how difficult it is. I’m at 9999! 😆
@@MuscleCarSolutions one more! Just one more!
Great Video. Thank you. Please do another Video about squirter in relation to the throttle linkage. Maybe you could recommend a way to set up the right way? I know, drive, check, repeat... but you' ve a amazing knowledge of carbs and could give some advice on how to do. Best regards.
Felix/oversea germany
Is this what you’re looking for? th-cam.com/video/-D4Zg14CkTM/w-d-xo.html
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes, I have a 283 sbc with 305 world s/r cast. I learned my lesson. Don't blame the shop but now I am to be on my own. Get 4 steps leaner on1# and 1 step leaner on2# . 1404 Edl. Afr okay, but sometimes under load it sounds lean. A. pump hole helps a littel bit. I even tried several timing curves. Any assist would be great. I am very thankful.
The placement of the weight reduction holes is critical. If you drilled and tapped the holes, set screws can be installed for tuning. There is a market to be had making tunable weights.
Unfortunately it’s got limited value. Reason being is the rest of the systems on the carb just don’t support it. It doesn’t meter large volumes of fuel like on a 4150 series carburetor. It was designed originally as a stock carburetor for the OEs and it morphed a little into more performance, but the general attributes remained the same. Needs more fuel capacity. Ability to add more pump shot. Ability to add more fuel on the secondary side. Less restriction with a metering rod system (which is centered on economy). Some of those can be tweaked, but it’s still very much designed around what an OE needed way back when it was designed. Just don’t have the need for that type of tuning on these carbs. Which is why I hope I expressed enough in this video to not make this mod!
@@MuscleCarSolutions it would be interesting to see what could be modified on these carbs like you were saying. Maybe a secondary accelerator pump, maybe annular boosters in the secondaries as well. I would be interested in what ideas you have to make a better performance carb out of it and still keep the tuneability of the jets and rods that work so well. I also like that you don't have to drain the float bowls to change jets.
@@jamesford2942 those are good questions. What still blows me away in a market where carburetors are dying, Edelbrock invested a lot of money to redesign the performer series carb and add in annular boosters and the AVS. All to make a better driving experience carb. Then again to go completely against the grain and design, test and bring to market an amazing new carburetor in the VRS. All in a category that is on the decline and heading to EFI and if the government has its way, to the death of internal combustion engines. I’m not sure how deep that well goes, but maybe we will see another upgraded design on the AVS2. I’m quite sure since they’ve knocked the last two out of the park that a new one would be no less exciting.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I think that the new Edelbrock carburetors seem to be well developed. I'm looking at one of the 500 CFM AVS2 carbs for my 318. I actually want to put an open plenum tunnel ram on it and use a matched pair of the AVS2 carbs with manual choke on it. I want to try progressive linkage on it as well.
Always interesting stuff to learn. 👍
Thank you sir!
Use an AVS style carburetor with adjustable secondaries.
Thats the best option no doubt!
hello my friend, the videl is very good, I bought a used edelbrock 1406 carburetor and it is without the air valve, will it work badly without the air valve? I'm from Colombia and you can't get these valves here, is there a page or a group where I can get them and have them send them to Colombia? Thank you
It will not work properly without the air valve. It’s what meters the secondary fuel. Might try eBay.
Awesome video sir, thanks for the info. I had a question, I have an edelbrock AVS 2 but it has some damage to it. But all the components inside are fine, I was wondering if I could swap the annular boosters from the AVS and put them into an edelbrock Performer carburetor I have that is new and has never been used? Could I swap the secondaries as well? Thanks
No and no, are the short answers. I’ll end up doing a video on the boosters but long story short is there’s a reason why the AVS2 is slightly bigger. The annular booster needs more airspeed to properly meter fuel. As far as swapping over the air valve on the secondary, I just don’t think you’ll ever get it to operate properly.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok well thanks for the fast reply I really appreciate it. Man now I have to decide whether I want to use the Performer I already have or buy another AVS. What do you think?
@@williamaldapa5648 I guess it all depends on what you want to do. The performer series carb is still one of the best street carburetors on the market. If you have one, it wouldn’t be a bad choice to use it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok cool, well thanks again for the info sir I really do appreciate it 👍
Edelbrocks do not have secondary squirters, If you make the weight to light it will lean out cracking in to the secondary's and probly backfire thru carb, I had to make the flaps sit flatter and harder to open on my blower motor because blowers have a stronger signal than normally aspirated, And you dont want to go lean on a huffer engine.
You want the fuel to start flowing in the secondary's before the flaps start opening.
I think you’re a little confused on how the weighted air valve works. Fuel doesn’t flow through the secondary boosters until the targeted air starts flowing. The air valve is what triggers that air flow, based on the vacuum drop in the engine. Snapping the blades open quicker gets the air flow quicker (in theory) to the booster when weight is removed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions There are large gaps in flaps air leaks around to draw fuel before flaps start opening when wide open, but then again, Just leave the flaps out and see what happens?
@@MuscleCarSolutions And i stand corrected. your right, I have 2 of them on my car and forgot how they work,, I was thinking Q-jet some reason.
@jocrp6 Do you use Edelbrock carbs on a blown engine? Have a 750 cfm sitting on a 4-71 blown 350 and search for some advice.
Say you drive an automatic, what is the best way just to add weight to the auxillary valves? Not take off!
Same question if you wanted to remove weight. Why?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I was just wondering what you would suggest! I did not say I even have a carburetor to work on! My point being that manual transmission do better with weight taken off and automatics do better with weight added on, or so I have heard. Anyway, I thought you might of done some research on it. I guess I was totally off my rocker to ask such a great mechanic as you, lol!
@@AlanSchildroth I understand now. Have a nice day. ✌️
ya thanks for the info but i wont try this lol
Heck I’ve done it a dozen or so times and I don’t want to either! It can be a massive pain…
Did you mention grinding the upper ears down, before any drilling? Check the video closely, he doesn't mention grinding the "elf" ears off of the rear weight tops, before any drilling or weighing.
No, I don’t mention it and even more than drilling, I don’t recommend. At least with the drill mod done the right way you can put some weight back if needed. Grinding is just going to end up worse as there’s no way to take a step back if needed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Which is why I ask why you didn't mention, that you, or someone you work with, ground off the tips of the weights prior to drilling? You can see, that each instance of drilling method, the tips were ground off, but were intact prior.
@@MrRVRclubprez incorrect. I don’t have an endless supply of those laying around and had to break down a couple carbs to get these. What you saw were ones from a 600 and a 500. They have different shapes because they open at different rates.
Good idea...
It can be!
Is there any way to talk to you about my 1407 carb? I have it on a 460 bbf and have some questions
Sure. You can ask here and I’m happy to respond. Or if you’d rather email, I have a contact form on my website. Link is in the description here.
Can you tell me what carb I have when it is not stamped on the front left mounting tab like most?
What brand carb?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Edelbrock
I would tap the holes and screw a plug back in it if I needed to.
The only issue with that is what you’re screwing in has more density and will throw off the balance of the weight even more. Endless amounts of time trying to get it back to where it was.
Just buy an avs
AVS are junk, made super cheap. The 1400s are 20x better than the 1900s
Provide examples where the avs is cheaply made.
Sometimes the money isn’t available and sometimes people work with what they have. There’s also the challenge to modify an item rather than just spending more money.
Not everyone can throw money at a problem (real or not) like the US government does at it problems. (Real or not)
It’s always easy to just suggest spending money. Something not everyone has.
I don't see why you couldn't just weld the hole back up with a wire feed or a TIG torch and then reweigh and drill again
You can, but getting the weight back to the balance it had with the right amount and density of material is the tricky part. It’s generally easier to huck the think it the scrap bin and go find another one. Or invest a lot of time in it.
sounds like anyone doing this mod should really have gotten the AVS instead
I don’t disagree that the AVS certainly provides most of that adjustability.