Thank you very much. I moved from Golden Co to Alamosa Co, So about 5500 ft to about 7600 ft. I run 1406 carbs in most of my old ford and chevys, and been having one hell of a time reseting all of the carbs. My 57 chevy has the 283 with the1406. I should get a 500 cfm carb. But this imfo will help a lot. Thank you very much
My 93 580 tripple Minnesota sled, is dogging out bad in the Colorado elevations, acting as if half choked. Here to learn what to do. Started to think I had a drive belt issue.
I have a question about what a/f reading is ideal at WOT @ 5000' density altitude. Ideal WOT a/f is appox 12.5. Does this change at higher density altitude. Thank you. Your videos are awesome 👍. Paul
So your base tune is determined by the type of engine that you have right? And then you would determine that in another part of the manual and have to remember it when you're trying to tune it?
Back in the carb days, did the manufacturerers alter their carbs and timing depending on where they would be sold? I grew up in Flagstaff, Arizona at 6,900 feet. Thank so much for posting this.
Tuned locally. My parents lived in Santa Fe NM at over 7000 ft. When they bought a new car, the dealer adjusted both to make it more drivable at that altitude. I’ve seen pamphlets talking about driving down at lower elevation and adjustments might need to be made. Pretty interesting times! Thanks for watching!
Brian, THANK you so much for making this. People often overlook or only talk about tuning based on Sea level numbers. you mention 4 degrees difference in timing from Denver to Sea Level. Is the timing change linear as you go up in elevation or exponential. I know I am outside of the norm, but we live at 8000-9000 Just curious if the timing would need almost a 9 degree difference or more. I realize that the motor will let me know, but a good starting point would be good. Is there a way to estimate initial timing based on altitude? Also would this increase in timing apply to total timing as well? I have currently seen my motor rise to well over 40 degrees of total advance without pinging and it seems like it wants more but I am worried about adding anything else.
It just kind of depends. I have relatives that live at a higher elevation than Denver (Santa Fe) and I start those at 16-18 when tuning. That’s generally where I start with any altitude here in the US. I know at those even higher elevations like you’re at some folks will go 18 initial and 40 all in and they run well on the thinner air. I’ve had some tell me they settled in at 20 initial, and as long as the engine is ok with it, and your AFR is telling you the output is good, then you’re ok.
Without messing with rods and jets, just the 2 front screws (stock Edelbrock Thunder series/Dominator), what would you recommend for number of screw turns? Default is 2.5 turns out on each screw if I’m not mistaken, but it’s idling a little fast. •4100 elevation •SBC 350 255 hp 4 barrel •Timing set at roughly 11-11.5
@@CS-bw8pt two things. There is no recommended number of turns. Start with 1 1/2 and tune from there. Your biggest issue though is not enough timing. At sea level I go 12-14. I’d be looking at at least 14-16 and see what the engine likes. The higher you go, the more time it needs.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsInteresting. I just lowered my timing based on what a first gen Camaro group told me… after giving my engine code #, they told me it should be at 12 from the factory. I didn’t realize timing changes with elevation as well.
@@CS-bw8pt absolutely. It’s one of the biggest factors and just remember one simple rule. When you’re tuning, doesn’t matter what type of engine or carbureted or efi, fuel and spark get tuned TOGETHER. I have family in Santa Fe at close to 7000 ft. 16-20 isn’t uncommon for initial timing.
Hey Brian I have never heard anyone talk more about timing when tuning, and I think it great, I can see where someone would go from a low altitude to high and miss the timing factor, the total advance would absolutely go up too, is air density what makes this all happen, I know on Diesel’s it’s a big deal, and do you make better gas mileage up high if you lean correctly, very good video, thanks buddy
It’s like peas and carrots! Messing with how much fuel an engine is getting directly is tied to ignition timing. They have to be dealt with together! As far as getting better economy at higher elevation I think sometimes that gets offset by being down on power. It’s noticeable is you’re used to operating at a lower level and head to higher elevation. I think a lot of times they get beat on a little harder because that normal snappy power is gone and it’s hard to go backwards. So they get run harder and of course end up giving that potential for gained fuel economy away. Thanks for stopping by! Always appreciate seeing you!
Higher elevation: lower air density. Carburetor is pumping the same amount of gas as if it was at sea level but at higher elevations (that is why carbureted airplane engines have a mixture control to lean at altitudes). Therefore the the mixture is rich and hence the need to lean at higher elevation to maintain proper fuel/air ratio.
Great video. Too bad they eliminated carburetors. They could have had them automated to adjust themselves (with an ecu) to monitor their performance and make the correct adjustments. I believe this technology is still relatvent to our modern car to get more gad mileage, less pollution in our environment. Make the carburetor into a gas vapor system for more mileage, less emissions. Thanks for the video.
Amazing video, i have a question, tal king about CR, the higher elevation yo drive is it possible to handle with a high CR engine or easier to handle a high CR engine at sea level ?
Great info. Never even considered timing for tuning for elevation. Just got a '70 Torino Type N/W 351W all stock back from paint that originally was sold in Seattle back then. I'm in the foothills in CO at 7600. I drop down to Denver elevation in about 3 miles from my home where I'll be doing the majority of my driving so I'd guess I need to tune specifically for about 5300. I'd like to keep it stock and not have to go to EFI or a different carb. Again, I have a stock Motorcraft carb - so thoughts on timing/tuning the carb?
Not on a factory motorcraft. You can add more timing and that will help but if you keep the factory carb, the fuel delivery adjustments are limited to idle.
I've been trying to get a good tune on my 78 Jeep J20. Motorcraft 2150 carb. My vacuum is at 14.5. I have my timing set at about 16°. I have a pretty big delay on acceleration. My idle rpms are at 750 and rpms in gear at 550.
Can you do the same tutorial for temperature swings? I’m in tulsa so we can see 100° all summer and then 30° is a good average for the winter. Obviously the cold increases air density and thus oxygen so it should lean out, but by how much? I have a 502 big block with a long duration cam
So I live in an area that's about 500-700 ft in elevation, i would go into the mountains at around 3500-4000ft with a stock Edelbrock 1406. I never had any issues going back and forth into those elevations, at least nothing i ever felt or noticed? I'll be using 1906 soon, so I'm hoping it's just as good as that 1406. My question is if I go even higher in elevation and do need to make a quick adjustment out on the trail, can I simply do something like a jet rod change just to get me by, something quick and easy while Wheeling? Or will I need to change jets as well?
@@dantheadventureman the calibration chart will tell you. Let’s say you go through the tuning process and end up at calibration number 5 (only an example). That’s around 4% lean in the cruise mode. If you go past 4- 5000 ft in elevation, you can look at the next leaner pint closest to that one. In this case it would be 14. That would effectively lean you out another 4% and have a much happier running engine. Also, don’t forget about timing. The two go hand in hand. Add more initial timing to get the fuel and reduced air mixture to burn. Don’t worry about easy. Worry about doing it right, and you’ll have a much more enjoyable time.
I Live in Arizona, Elevation in my Rural Area are: 80ft-250ft Above Sea Level. What type of inital timing would you suggest for a Chevy 350 SBC? I have a Edelbrock 1906 AVS2
Always a challenge. You’re in a difficult hot spot if you’re experiencing such drastic elevation changes. If you tune for your home area, when you go higher you’ll just be a little rich. If you’re not aggressive on the lean side, you’ll go lean when you drop down but it shouldn’t be so drastic to put the engine in a bad situation. I’d absolutely invest in an AFR so you can monitor all three areas. That way you’ll know when you make changes how it will effect the other two areas.
Lots of years of learning, trial and error along with plenty of mistakes! Still learn something every day! Best part of being a car guy for sure! Thanks John!
Maybe you can help me with my dilemma: Later this year, im moving to Montana and I currently live in Texas. I have no doubt in its mechanical capability to get there and I have roadside assistance if necessary but my concern is the altitude along the way. I live in 951 feet and currently my carb seems to run a touch lean, I close the choke every so slightly and it runs perfect. As a young guy with no experience, its a daily driver, and little money right now, I have no desire to tear things apart that i dont understand in advance if its not absolutely necessary. Where Im moving is 2,956 feet in elevation and the entire county ranges from 2900-3600 Dandy. But the trip there.. I get to 4700 feet where i will first stop for a nights rest in Pueblo Colorado, i assume i can make it there even if i must remove the air cleaner and adjust idle mixture screws. But from there the next day it jumps massively to a max of 10,578 feet before gradually declining to around 6,900 feet at my next stop for the night. then to 4,800 by the next stop, then i should be good with things set to the proper settings for where im moving to. But is there anything i can do to make it through the drive, without having to tear apart the carb on the side of the road? Its a Motorcraft 2100 on a ford 390 in country squire Worst case, how many jet sizes would you recommend going down for the height of the journey? I assume 8 degrees initial timing as well. Would i actually have to change anything else or could i skate by?
You’ll be fine. Yes as you go up in elevation you’ll need more timing and it’s going to run a little rich. When you get to your new home, then you can look at making adjustments. Idle mixture screw adjustment does nothing to affect the drivability when you’re cruising down the road. Adding more timing will help tremendously.
Hey there. Going back to working on my 79 ford lately. Installed a new 1406 as I had one years ago and it ran a long time without any problems. I have ran set my metering rods and jets and seems to be running good. One thing I’m curious about is how much altitude affects the idle air mixture screws. Where mine are set is about 1/2 turn from bottom and it pulls the most vacuum and idles the smoothest. Is this too lean? Everyone says 1 1/2 out plus or minus a 1/4 turn. It’s a fresh 400 with a manual at 14 BTDC. Just wanted to ask some others. I don’t have an A/F gauge but my nose can tell you that she be rich lol
Idle mixture screws only affect idle. Past 1000 rpm, that circuit is bypassed. If you want to take more fuel out at idle, close the screws down. I can tell you 14 degrees advance is likely not near enough. What elevation are you at?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I appreciate the reply! I am sitting at 5100ft here in Colorado. At idle it runs very rich at 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 turns so that's why I have leaned out the idle circuit. I just don't want to run too lean. I don't have an A/F gauge yet but it's not hard to smell/see how rich it is. I purchased this truck from my father about two decades ago. He would adjust timing by "feel". He was a logger and was constantly changing altitude, so he always was tapping it less or more depending on where he was. When I purchased the truck, it was set at 18 degrees. (I can confirm I am the only one in my family who owns a timing light lol) It ran just fine at 18. The poor truck has sat for a number of years which has prompted me to start diving in to get the truck as good as I can for what it is. I seriously appreciate your input as your videos have taught me a vast amount that I did not understand before on these older engines.
I'm running a 1411 Edelbrock and even the stock calibration at 5000 ft in Colorado, my plugs are showing lean. I built a 351m with 10.5 compression ratio bored .060 over, forged flat top pistons.. I have a Howard's rattler roller cam 227/235 @.050 intake C/L at 103° 109° lobe sep. I'm going to buy a AFR gauge .it feels great off idle but is feels sluggish after that. I've went 4% lean on the primaries and rich on the secondaries. Timing with a HEI Ford distributor is at 34° total timing. Still plugs are showing lean. Accelerator pump position is maxed. C6 auto with 1800 stall and adjustable modulator. I need help. Thanks in advance. BTW I'm running 87 non ethanol fuel.
im a drag racer, we dont care what the elevation is, we use weather stations to tell what the adjusted altitude is, we have no use for actual elevation numbers, i will explain, in SaltLake City, Utah. we are 4,280 ft above sea level, but the air gets so thin crossing nevada, that the adjusted altitude is usually the equivalent to 7500 ft, all summer long, thats called adjusted altitude. our weather stations figure that out for us , so we jet for adjusted altitude, actual elevation means nothing. when drag racers talk about racing at other tracks , the question is what is the adjusted altitude there, meanning with all weather peramiters added up what altitude is the current air equal to , this might make more since now, why weather stations are really used.
Not sure what the point is here. 95% of what we cover on this channel is street cars, and I’ll go out on a limb and guess no one is interested in purchasing a weather station when a very simple rule of thumb based on elevation works exceptionally well.
The Edelbrock calibration kit is purchased by the part number carburetor you have. It will contain the rod and jets for the tuning chart on that part number carb.
@@grantadan no it’s not universal. It’s for that specific part number carburetor. It will have all the positions on the tuning chart included so you can tune for that elevation. I’m assuming you’re close to 6500-7000 feet. I’ve tuned in Santa Fe and I always started at 8% lean and went from there. The calibration kit and the tuning chart will give you all that info.
@@grantadan yup. Start at 8% and you can adjust as needed from there. Looking forward to my next visit to the area. I can’t get enough New Mexican food!
its not because of dense air at altitude its just the opposite , dense means to much of something, at altitude air is very thin, not dense, i live in saltlake city, 4,280 ft above sea level, very thin air, i will run 1/2 second quicker at a sea level track, like seattle for example
you need to re think your approach here bud , its not 3 horsepower per thousand feet, unless you are talking about 1 motor in particular, all motors lose the same percentage of power, meanning a 4000 horsepower motor is not going to lose 3 horsepower the same as a 250 horsepower motor will lose 3 horsepower,
Thank you very much. I moved from Golden Co to Alamosa Co, So about 5500 ft to about 7600 ft. I run 1406 carbs in most of my old ford and chevys, and been having one hell of a time reseting all of the carbs. My 57 chevy has the 283 with the1406. I should get a 500 cfm carb. But this imfo will help a lot. Thank you very much
I hope it’s helpful for you as you get tuning! Please don’t hesitate to ask any questions and I’ll be glad to try to help.
what jets did you have when you were in Golden ? I am in Brighton and looking to get it tuned correctly it was originally a Oregon car. Thanks !
@@andyuscum wow a fellow Brightonian.......dont see many of us on random videos like this!!!!
My 93 580 tripple Minnesota sled, is dogging out bad in the Colorado elevations, acting as if half choked.
Here to learn what to do.
Started to think I had a drive belt issue.
Never new anything like this, learning new stuff every Sunday👍
Yes sir. Elevation is a pain on carbureted engines!
I just stumbled across you channel. Great information! I have a 66 Chevelle and A 72 Plymouth Scamp. I will be using this information. Subscribed
Outstanding vehicles in your stable! Thanks for stopping by!
I have a question about what a/f reading is ideal at WOT @ 5000' density altitude. Ideal WOT a/f is appox 12.5. Does this change at higher density altitude. Thank you. Your videos are awesome 👍. Paul
So your base tune is determined by the type of engine that you have right? And then you would determine that in another part of the manual and have to remember it when you're trying to tune it?
Back in the carb days, did the manufacturerers alter their carbs and timing depending on where they would be sold?
I grew up in Flagstaff, Arizona at 6,900 feet.
Thank so much for posting this.
Tuned locally. My parents lived in Santa Fe NM at over 7000 ft. When they bought a new car, the dealer adjusted both to make it more drivable at that altitude. I’ve seen pamphlets talking about driving down at lower elevation and adjustments might need to be made. Pretty interesting times! Thanks for watching!
Brian, THANK you so much for making this. People often overlook or only talk about tuning based on Sea level numbers. you mention 4 degrees difference in timing from Denver to Sea Level. Is the timing change linear as you go up in elevation or exponential. I know I am outside of the norm, but we live at 8000-9000 Just curious if the timing would need almost a 9 degree difference or more. I realize that the motor will let me know, but a good starting point would be good. Is there a way to estimate initial timing based on altitude? Also would this increase in timing apply to total timing as well? I have currently seen my motor rise to well over 40 degrees of total advance without pinging and it seems like it wants more but I am worried about adding anything else.
It just kind of depends. I have relatives that live at a higher elevation than Denver (Santa Fe) and I start those at 16-18 when tuning. That’s generally where I start with any altitude here in the US. I know at those even higher elevations like you’re at some folks will go 18 initial and 40 all in and they run well on the thinner air. I’ve had some tell me they settled in at 20 initial, and as long as the engine is ok with it, and your AFR is telling you the output is good, then you’re ok.
Without messing with rods and jets, just the 2 front screws (stock Edelbrock Thunder series/Dominator), what would you recommend for number of screw turns? Default is 2.5 turns out on each screw if I’m not mistaken, but it’s idling a little fast.
•4100 elevation
•SBC 350 255 hp 4 barrel
•Timing set at roughly 11-11.5
@@CS-bw8pt two things. There is no recommended number of turns. Start with 1 1/2 and tune from there. Your biggest issue though is not enough timing. At sea level I go 12-14. I’d be looking at at least 14-16 and see what the engine likes. The higher you go, the more time it needs.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsInteresting. I just lowered my timing based on what a first gen Camaro group told me… after giving my engine code #, they told me it should be at 12 from the factory. I didn’t realize timing changes with elevation as well.
@@CS-bw8pt absolutely. It’s one of the biggest factors and just remember one simple rule. When you’re tuning, doesn’t matter what type of engine or carbureted or efi, fuel and spark get tuned TOGETHER. I have family in Santa Fe at close to 7000 ft. 16-20 isn’t uncommon for initial timing.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsBack to the garage. Thank you sir.
@@CS-bw8pt best of luck!
Hey Brian I have never heard anyone talk more about timing when tuning, and I think it great, I can see where someone would go from a low altitude to high and miss the timing factor, the total advance would absolutely go up too, is air density what makes this all happen, I know on Diesel’s it’s a big deal, and do you make better gas mileage up high if you lean correctly, very good video, thanks buddy
It’s like peas and carrots! Messing with how much fuel an engine is getting directly is tied to ignition timing. They have to be dealt with together! As far as getting better economy at higher elevation I think sometimes that gets offset by being down on power. It’s noticeable is you’re used to operating at a lower level and head to higher elevation. I think a lot of times they get beat on a little harder because that normal snappy power is gone and it’s hard to go backwards. So they get run harder and of course end up giving that potential for gained fuel economy away. Thanks for stopping by! Always appreciate seeing you!
@@MuscleCarSolutions 👍👍
Very helpful. I’ve been wondering about this.
Cool! You’re very welcome!
Higher elevation: lower air density. Carburetor is pumping the same amount of gas as if it was at sea level but at higher elevations (that is why carbureted airplane engines have a mixture control to lean at altitudes). Therefore the the mixture is rich and hence the need to lean at higher elevation to maintain proper fuel/air ratio.
Great video.
Too bad they eliminated carburetors.
They could have had them automated to adjust themselves (with an ecu) to monitor their performance and make the correct adjustments.
I believe this technology is still relatvent to our modern car to get more gad mileage, less pollution in our environment.
Make the carburetor into a gas vapor system for more mileage, less emissions.
Thanks for the video.
Amazing video, i have a question, tal king about CR, the higher elevation yo drive is it possible to handle with a high CR engine or easier to handle a high CR engine at sea level ?
The high altitude location engines like a little higher compression.
Great info. Never even considered timing for tuning for elevation. Just got a '70 Torino Type N/W 351W all stock back from paint that originally was sold in Seattle back then. I'm in the foothills in CO at 7600. I drop down to Denver elevation in about 3 miles from my home where I'll be doing the majority of my driving so I'd guess I need to tune specifically for about 5300. I'd like to keep it stock and not have to go to EFI or a different carb. Again, I have a stock Motorcraft carb - so thoughts on timing/tuning the carb?
Not on a factory motorcraft. You can add more timing and that will help but if you keep the factory carb, the fuel delivery adjustments are limited to idle.
Got it. Which carb would you recommend? Or would a better play be to go to an EFI setup? If so, which would you recommend then?@@MuscleCarSolutions
Awesome info thanks so much for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I've been trying to get a good tune on my 78 Jeep J20. Motorcraft 2150 carb. My vacuum is at 14.5. I have my timing set at about 16°. I have a pretty big delay on acceleration. My idle rpms are at 750 and rpms in gear at 550.
I'm at 6200 feet
Not much you can do with that carburetor. Live with it is all you can. Unless someone makes jets for the thing.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I think mikes carburetor parts had some jets for it.
There ya go!
Thanks! I’m in Santa Fe, NM.
Can you do the same tutorial for temperature swings? I’m in tulsa so we can see 100° all summer and then 30° is a good average for the winter. Obviously the cold increases air density and thus oxygen so it should lean out, but by how much?
I have a 502 big block with a long duration cam
Yeah we can probably do something like that. That’s a good topic. Let me dig into how to present that. Thank you for the suggestion.
@@MuscleCarSolutions sweet thanks!
Great info!!
Thanks man!
So I live in an area that's about 500-700 ft in elevation, i would go into the mountains at around 3500-4000ft with a stock Edelbrock 1406. I never had any issues going back and forth into those elevations, at least nothing i ever felt or noticed? I'll be using 1906 soon, so I'm hoping it's just as good as that 1406. My question is if I go even higher in elevation and do need to make a quick adjustment out on the trail, can I simply do something like a jet rod change just to get me by, something quick and easy while Wheeling? Or will I need to change jets as well?
@@dantheadventureman the calibration chart will tell you. Let’s say you go through the tuning process and end up at calibration number 5 (only an example). That’s around 4% lean in the cruise mode. If you go past 4- 5000 ft in elevation, you can look at the next leaner pint closest to that one. In this case it would be 14. That would effectively lean you out another 4% and have a much happier running engine. Also, don’t forget about timing. The two go hand in hand. Add more initial timing to get the fuel and reduced air mixture to burn. Don’t worry about easy. Worry about doing it right, and you’ll have a much more enjoyable time.
I Live in Arizona,
Elevation in my Rural Area are:
80ft-250ft Above Sea Level.
What type of inital timing would you suggest for a
Chevy 350 SBC?
I have a Edelbrock 1906 AVS2
I start at 12-14.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank You :)
Now I just need a Holley video!
Holley doesn’t make it very easy like Edelbrock does. Just take some fuel out and get an AFR so you can monitor the changes.
What would be your advice if I live at 9300. My closest town is at 7. And I work up at 11k what would be my target area ?
Always a challenge. You’re in a difficult hot spot if you’re experiencing such drastic elevation changes. If you tune for your home area, when you go higher you’ll just be a little rich. If you’re not aggressive on the lean side, you’ll go lean when you drop down but it shouldn’t be so drastic to put the engine in a bad situation. I’d absolutely invest in an AFR so you can monitor all three areas. That way you’ll know when you make changes how it will effect the other two areas.
Nice video you have this stuff mastered for sure keep the videos coming
Lots of years of learning, trial and error along with plenty of mistakes! Still learn something every day! Best part of being a car guy for sure! Thanks John!
Maybe you can help me with my dilemma:
Later this year, im moving to Montana and I currently live in Texas. I have no doubt in its mechanical capability to get there and I have roadside assistance if necessary but my concern is the altitude along the way.
I live in 951 feet and currently my carb seems to run a touch lean, I close the choke every so slightly and it runs perfect. As a young guy with no experience, its a daily driver, and little money right now, I have no desire to tear things apart that i dont understand in advance if its not absolutely necessary.
Where Im moving is 2,956 feet in elevation and the entire county ranges from 2900-3600
Dandy. But the trip there.. I get to 4700 feet where i will first stop for a nights rest in Pueblo Colorado, i assume i can make it there even if i must remove the air cleaner and adjust idle mixture screws.
But from there the next day it jumps massively to a max of 10,578 feet before gradually declining to around 6,900 feet at my next stop for the night. then to 4,800 by the next stop, then i should be good with things set to the proper settings for where im moving to.
But is there anything i can do to make it through the drive, without having to tear apart the carb on the side of the road?
Its a Motorcraft 2100 on a ford 390 in country squire
Worst case, how many jet sizes would you recommend going down for the height of the journey? I assume 8 degrees initial timing as well.
Would i actually have to change anything else or could i skate by?
You’ll be fine. Yes as you go up in elevation you’ll need more timing and it’s going to run a little rich. When you get to your new home, then you can look at making adjustments. Idle mixture screw adjustment does nothing to affect the drivability when you’re cruising down the road. Adding more timing will help tremendously.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much
I Moved from california to colorado and my car started running horribly, I plan to use smaller jets and advance the timing more
Hey there. Going back to working on my 79 ford lately. Installed a new 1406 as I had one years ago and it ran a long time without any problems. I have ran set my metering rods and jets and seems to be running good. One thing I’m curious about is how much altitude affects the idle air mixture screws. Where mine are set is about 1/2 turn from bottom and it pulls the most vacuum and idles the smoothest. Is this too lean? Everyone says 1 1/2 out plus or minus a 1/4 turn. It’s a fresh 400 with a manual at 14 BTDC. Just wanted to ask some others. I don’t have an A/F gauge but my nose can tell you that she be rich lol
Idle mixture screws only affect idle. Past 1000 rpm, that circuit is bypassed. If you want to take more fuel out at idle, close the screws down. I can tell you 14 degrees advance is likely not near enough. What elevation are you at?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I appreciate the reply! I am sitting at 5100ft here in Colorado. At idle it runs very rich at 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 turns so that's why I have leaned out the idle circuit. I just don't want to run too lean. I don't have an A/F gauge yet but it's not hard to smell/see how rich it is. I purchased this truck from my father about two decades ago. He would adjust timing by "feel". He was a logger and was constantly changing altitude, so he always was tapping it less or more depending on where he was. When I purchased the truck, it was set at 18 degrees. (I can confirm I am the only one in my family who owns a timing light lol) It ran just fine at 18. The poor truck has sat for a number of years which has prompted me to start diving in to get the truck as good as I can for what it is. I seriously appreciate your input as your videos have taught me a vast amount that I did not understand before on these older engines.
@@colooutdoors8949 go back to the 18. When you’re at higher elevations, more timing is so critical to getting the best performance.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you sir! I appreciate it!!
@@colooutdoors8949 best of luck! You’re on the right path.
Good content as always. Thanks for the info.
Many thanks! Very much appreciated.
I'm running a 1411 Edelbrock and even the stock calibration at 5000 ft in Colorado, my plugs are showing lean. I built a 351m with 10.5 compression ratio bored .060 over, forged flat top pistons.. I have a Howard's rattler roller cam 227/235 @.050 intake C/L at 103° 109° lobe sep. I'm going to buy a AFR gauge .it feels great off idle but is feels sluggish after that. I've went 4% lean on the primaries and rich on the secondaries. Timing with a HEI Ford distributor is at 34° total timing. Still plugs are showing lean. Accelerator pump position is maxed. C6 auto with 1800 stall and adjustable modulator. I need help. Thanks in advance. BTW I'm running 87 non ethanol fuel.
im a drag racer, we dont care what the elevation is, we use weather stations to tell what the adjusted altitude is, we have no use for actual elevation numbers, i will explain, in SaltLake City, Utah. we are 4,280 ft above sea level, but the air gets so thin crossing nevada, that the adjusted altitude is usually the equivalent to 7500 ft, all summer long, thats called adjusted altitude. our weather stations figure that out for us , so we jet for adjusted altitude, actual elevation means nothing. when drag racers talk about racing at other tracks , the question is what is the adjusted altitude there, meanning with all weather peramiters added up what altitude is the current air equal to , this might make more since now, why weather stations are really used.
Not sure what the point is here. 95% of what we cover on this channel is street cars, and I’ll go out on a limb and guess no one is interested in purchasing a weather station when a very simple rule of thumb based on elevation works exceptionally well.
I'm actually in Santa Fe NM and messing around with my ellerbrock, I was wondering how do the numbers on the chart tell me what kit to purchase
The Edelbrock calibration kit is purchased by the part number carburetor you have. It will contain the rod and jets for the tuning chart on that part number carb.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have 1405. So the kit sold is pretty universal or should I say more suitable for my altitude
@@grantadan no it’s not universal. It’s for that specific part number carburetor. It will have all the positions on the tuning chart included so you can tune for that elevation. I’m assuming you’re close to 6500-7000 feet. I’ve tuned in Santa Fe and I always started at 8% lean and went from there. The calibration kit and the tuning chart will give you all that info.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok sounds good I will get a kit for my carb and go from there thank you, and yes here it's 7000 feet
@@grantadan yup. Start at 8% and you can adjust as needed from there. Looking forward to my next visit to the area. I can’t get enough New Mexican food!
its not because of dense air at altitude its just the opposite , dense means to much of something, at altitude air is very thin, not dense, i live in saltlake city, 4,280 ft above sea level, very thin air, i will run 1/2 second quicker at a sea level track, like seattle for example
What if you live at more than 7000 ft but drive a lot to your beach house?
You go with fuel injection
you need to re think your approach here bud , its not 3 horsepower per thousand feet, unless you are talking about 1 motor in particular, all motors lose the same percentage of power, meanning a 4000 horsepower motor is not going to lose 3 horsepower the same as a 250 horsepower motor will lose 3 horsepower,
It’s 3%. Did I say 3 hp? Then it was just a simple mistake. Much like making “since”. I’m sure you understand, bud.
Ur a badass
No help . where are the adjustments man.
Watch the video! 😆