I have a school bus (18K GVWR) converted to an RV, with pretty extensive wandering problems. Though it's a much larger animal than shown in this video , virtually all of the components are duplicated just on a larger scale. I am now equipped to diagnose my issue. Thanks for the info. Holding on to the tie rod while someone else moves the wheel, is a key way of detecting worn parts, that a cool hack. Thanks.
am a mopar guy and came across this video also have a play in my steering box , one of the best and simplest videos i'ver watched thanks and greetings from LEbanon
31 years ago I fought this on my 67 Mustang coupe and gave up. 2 power steering control valves (dont use a pickle fork. I pulled the ball stud right out), springs, steering box (3 or 4 foot long solid shaft), upper control arm bushings, idler arm, 100 alignments, lower ball joints. It won't straighten out right after turning. Tried adjusting the control valve. I think the ride height is off. The lower control arms aren't parallel to the ground. The shock towers are good. Oh yeah, new shocks. Bearings. I haven't driven it in nearly 20 years and that was just to change houses. It wanders everywhere. (Sigh.) You reminded me - Headers require the extension for the power cylinder shaft (I have it.) Maybe I should jack it up and check it out again now that I'm old and broke instead of young and broke. Sheesh! I was watching Def Leopard, White Lion, and Skid Row on MTV (They really played music before, kids) when I was trying to fix it. Now all that stuff is classic grandpa rock. (Still kicks the crap out of the new stuff, young whipper snappers!)
Excellent video and steering troubleshooting tips, I wish we had such video's to watch when I was restoring my former 1965 Mustang Fastback in the early 1980's, I had to read a lot of Mustang Monthly magazine articles, and buy several books on such subjects.
I almost had an accident this morning....my steering wheel kept feeling like it was going to come off....so loose. Had the rack and pinion replaced 5 DAYS AGO. This morning on my way to work ,I felt something come loose...scary situation. Got off the freeway and as soon I pulled into the has station,I completely lost all power at my steering wheel....my steering wheel just kept doing complete circles right and going left....my tires just went straight....my car is back at the mechanics. Just glad we got off the freeway when we did...could have been really bad.
Though I may not have a cougar, I do have a 68 mustang. With lots of the parts the same I really enjoy this channel and will subscribe to it. Honestly this channel has helped me with my car mainly because I can't find any about mustangs that are has high of quality
Really great your video, I am going around the entire front steering system on my 63 Ford and did not realized the hydraulic pressure was important when verifying the Pitman arm end play, thanks a lot for this one.
Great video! Stuff like this is useful no matter what you drive. One comment though, I've always liked to replace the old rag joint for a couple of reasons. One is these cars aren't getting any newer, so it's a safety issue. I just don't trust old ones. Other reason is it seems to help with steering precision, less flex.
This video was very informative to me. After the first time watching, I ended up grabbing my notebook and taking this stuff down. Hopefully, I'll find my issue! Thank you guys.
Two outer tie rod boots were referenced in this video, one with a steel sleeve, one without. If the tie rod does NOT have a machined area around the casting at the ball joint, the steel sleeved boot WILL NOT fit. If it does, the non-steel sleeved boot will be sloppy loose. So don't order new boots just because you like the looks of one or the other, make sure which style tie rod you have before ordering new boots! I learned this the hard way because my friend's '67 Mustang had one of each.
Don’t own a cougar but I wish someone would do this for 84-88 Monte Carlo ss GBodys Grand Nationals too . This is so awesome full of knowledge. And you provide part numbers with image geez 😇👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
There seems to be some confusion over a statement Don Whitnell (DW) makes at around the 15:10 mark. He says "Most people put these in wrong". DW is referring to putting the shaft together incorrectly, not putting the clips in. The upper and lower shafts can fit two ways, but only work in one way. You should always mark the two pieces before you separate them so that they go back together the same way.
Sometimes you can't adjust it out though.. And be careful when buying a new one from parts house, take a big vice grip and some big pliers, test the new one before you leave. I had a shop replace mine, hell has more slack now than before, got the new refurbished from Auto Zone, after researching I found out they repack them but don't always rebuild the valve assembly. So now, I have to remove my headers, loosen my transmission support, and engine mounts and lift the engine. I have a 351W in a 68 cougar.
i really loved the video, you were very friendly & very informative. i loved the audience & i actually learned a lot. i live in philly & have an 81 gmc 3500 2 wheel drive. no duelly, just a really heavy duty pick up truck. my front end has bin horrible. i replaced both lower control arms, i have my new pitman & idler arm waiting to go on, my upper control arms are in good shape, but God when you are on the highway does it seriously wander.....with a load on the back i stay off the highway, lol. i'm gonna check my steering box the way you showed me, i am honestly probably getting a rebuilt one...i know the chevy trucks are notorious for bad pitman & idlers....its about the fifth one in ten years already. but thank you very much...
Got a Dodge van with steering problems. Thanks for making this video, now I understand you put your hand on each joint while someone wiggles the wheels. I was unsure how you tested ball joints because the wheel bearings also typically have a bit of slop. But if you put your hand on the joint it doesn't matter how much play in the wheel bearing there is.
Thank you for this useful video! Many American cars of the 1960s had similar steering and suspension systems up front so your information goes beyond Cougars, and even beyond Fords!
Thanks for your quick reply. I've noticed a small drip mark by right passenger tire but don't actually see a leak and don't have to top off the fluid. I'm just glad that I can drive it... Thanksgiving trip! Best to you!
Great video, love it. It's funny to look at someone face when u tell them u have 2-80 AC and 3 on the tree. 2 windows down and 80mph! Someone commented that even though we don't have a cougar most classics can relate to this one way or another. Ford, GM, Chrysler pretty much same general idea and concepts. It's a dying art form, this so when u could actually work on your own vehicle without s computer.
Great job! I've put up with my jeep steering for 5 years thinking it was like that because of the older steering design (has no lift but has always wondered with loose steering). But I realize it is 17 years old and probably needs more than new shocks.. the symptoms describes at the start is exactly what I get.. just have to get it hoisted up now. Cheers
Super informative! Should feel good knowing what I'm looking at when I get home to my 1970 ford econoline and start makin trouble for myself, lol. The product shots and graphics were a nice touch to further identify parts.
I just installed a Borgeson Steering kit in my 1970 Mustang with tilt steering column! I made a major mistake. I told Borgeson I had a tilt Column, and they told me to buy the GM DD Rag Joint connector. Well, that wouldn't fit. So instead of really thinking about what I was doing, I ground the end of my steering rod to match the new DD Rag Joint. Now when I turn the wheel hard, there's a "thunk" and the rod moves slightly! All I had to do if I had given this situation some thought, is split the old rag joint in half and reuse the end that fit! Borgeson also told me to "Beat" the shaft out of the column in order to cut 1" off the outer Column housing! After watching this video, it's obvious that this is not the right move! Now I'm in a situation where it's likely that I'm going to need to take the column back out, and weld a piece of 3/4 DD to the end of my inner shaft! Any comments from the guys at West Coast Cougar regarding this mess!? And by the way, you guys absolutely ROCK! You're my favorite problem solvers!
I know my vehicle is way off from what your showing here but I have an 01 Nissan Xterra suv that I bought last year. I paid too much for the truck and have put a lot of new parts into it since but I absolutely love the truck. I used to be strictly ford as my first ever car was a 84 ford mustang but I wanted an suv and had explorers, etc and wanted something different. I am getting ready to put new ball joints into the xterra as the truck is wandering bad and they are squeaking horribly. But there is also a TON of play in the wheel atleast 3-4" of play side to side. The play seemed between the pitman arm and steering wheel and I wasn't sure what it could be but after doing some research I learned about adjusting the steering box.. After watching your video I feel much more confident that the box needs adjusting.. Now I can't wait to get outside in the morning and see if I can adjust it. I recently put all new brakes, rotors, drums, and front wheel bearing and races in and just put new tires on the truck. And i'm putting new ball joints in and I need to get an alignment but I wanted to sort out the steering issues first. I'm really glad you made and uploaded this video. Thanks for the work you put into this video. If it wasn't for the internet and guys uploading these types of videos It would take much longer to fix things.
I’ve got a 55 Commer truck with worm and gear wheel it’s tiring to drive with a sloppy steering wheel. All of the solutions have an adjustment nut while mine is adjust by a weird shims arrangement
if the steering link arm has worn tie rod mounts can the link be bushed my car has no replacement for it. and the link is cast. The only thing i can think to do is bush the holes. my car is 1963 Pontiac lemans
Great video..very informational..thanks I have a 67 ford econoline van 6 cyl that I'm having steering issues with very stiff sat in a field for over 20 years original belll telephone truck from Mount Vernon Washington, first step is lube the steering box and I'm trying to figure out if I can use grease or 90 weight gear oil, it hasn't been lubed I'm assuming since the Nixon Administration if eve..r thank you
Yes I just bought my 1967 cougar. The car is a good car. But the car has been basically rebuilt. It really is tight but as You are saying. My car has a lot of play in the steering wheel. I am constantly turning from side to side.
If there is no noise on Idling, but when the car starts to move it develops knocking sound, which gets maximum around 45 mph, can it still be engine noise, or it is more likely the suspension? Thank you for the informative film.
Hello, I learned some things today! Can you tell what I can do to get my tilt steering u-joint rebuilt? It has a lot of play in it as you showed in your video and I can't seem to find a good used one.. Thank you, Mark
I think is way past due to somebody to reproduce the cluster lenses for 69-73 Cougars,since the 80s they're all fogged and this is very irritating,if somebody does it,it'll sell like crazy
That would be nice.. at least the XR7 / Eliminator clock lens is reproduced: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69clklens.html Also we do have restored lenses that look as good as new. The plastic can be polished to perfection as long as there aren't any deep scratches. Here are the 69-70 restored lenses: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=C9W%20gauge%20lens%20restored
I bought all new stuff for my 1990 Ford F-150. I keep gettin told not to adjust a new gearbox, but there is alot of unsafe play in it. Should I adjust my new(remanufactured) gearbox anyways? Everything is new, but still alot of slack..
Hell my 1968 Falcon had sloppy steering the day it came off the lot brand new. It may sound unscientific, but back in the day the way I ''fixed'' it was by putting R/70 or wider tires in the front.
Wanted to say thank you for this video. I've been beating my head against the wall trying to resolve my steering. If the sloppy steering is only towards the driver side and not the passenger side, does that change anything? I can grab above the rag joint and it rotates to the driver side, but it is tight to the passenger side.
my dads mustang 66 does this with the steering you have to steer about 2-4 inches left to right just to drive straight, i believe he has tried to "adjust" that bolt but we are not mechanics so im sure that box got ruined
Have an issue with tbe power steering, steering wheel would slam to left, replaced power steering pump, new lines, rebuilt control value, scared to drive it. Also trys to stall when wheel is turned to the left......no ideas what could be wrong...
I was told I need to replace Hi-Power steering pressure hose at 266.00 I guess I've drove the car to get worse, now they say I need remanufactured Complete Rack Assembly Steering/Suspension and replace the steering suspension rack and pinion d total = 800.00 . My Dad is telling me to replace hose for now and if it needs rack and pinion etc. to replace it later cuz d stirring wheel does not seem to b that bad ,The only time it pulls a little bit to d R/L (I don't remember ) is wen it is low on PS oil and not that often I feel it pulling I hear sounds and it is leaking of the oil pretty bad when I park it and when I drive away there is oil on ground , I hav to put oil in a lot and this is a 2005 Nissan Quest 3.5 my Dad (85 yrs ) is worried that that's a lot of money to spend on a van wen its timing chain can go out any time but I'm just confused that I have to get all done OR can I get hose first and c what happens ... I feel like they r saying I hav to hav d whole works done at d same time ...need to kn what I should do :/
my steering wheel have plenty of play so is this the culprit cause i will do this right now my steering wheel is hard to turn sometimes and that's dangerous so i want my steering strong and sturdy and not loose i been driving like that for a very long time and it's time i fix it
Hi guys, I just discovered your channel and I love it. Although I have a 67 Mustang Coupe. I know some parts are similar. I have the same issues in my steering. Moving the steering wheel the rag joint has movement along with the pitman arm. I haven't check my ball joints, control arms etc. Could the steering box need some adjustments? I appreciate any info you can provide. Thanks guys.
You probably need to look at the Rag Joint: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=rag%20joint&CatID=0 As well as replacing the Retainer Clips at 14:25 : secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17949/32067/retainer-clip-split-shaft-fixed-tilt-column-pair-repro-1968-1973-mercury-cougar-1968-1973-ford-mustang.html.
Those are substantially different than what come on the 67-73 Mercury Cougars we sell parts for. You can get the one you need through most auto parts stores. Here is a link to one at NAPA: www.napaonline.com/en/p/PS_361518
I've always wondered why the steering was so loose in all the old American cars I've driven. I live in Sweden and the old Volvos are not even half as bad; no matter how rancid and rotten the car is. Is there a difference in construction? I know many of these cars are made more for comfort so the steering should be smoother and there'd be less feedback but having to turn the wheel left to right to left just to stay straight is definitely not how it's supposed to behave. If there's anyone in the know about these things; I would love a reply!
Thanks for the video . I have a 76 International Scout II and had a friend mechanic rebuild the steering gear box ( it was his first time to rebuild a steering gear box) and when he got done the truck don't wanna straighten back out while turning or going around curves. I have to bump the steering wheel from left to right about 4 times to each side before it will drive straight again. Once it's driving straight it will stay straight. Do you think it's an adjustment issue or he might not have rebuilt it correctly? I'm scared to drive it now. Thanks for any advise you can give .
that control arm, will it need to be rebuilt by a professional , or can an experienced mechanic be trusted on that. I'm curious because I'm fixing one myself. I care about my and other's safety and if I'd do better sending that part off that's what I'll do.
I have a 97 ford aerostar. Has play in stearing wheel. Moves a quarter inch up, down , left or right. Mabey needs a bearing new. Any videos or help thanks
7 years later and this is still one of the best classic car videos out there for diagnostics. Thank you!
9 Years later and your comment is still accurate! Great video!
I have a school bus (18K GVWR) converted to an RV, with pretty extensive wandering problems. Though it's a much larger animal than shown in this video , virtually all of the components are duplicated just on a larger scale. I am now equipped to diagnose my issue. Thanks for the info. Holding on to the tie rod while someone else moves the wheel, is a key way of detecting worn parts, that a cool hack. Thanks.
just about every old ford I've driven has the "ford wander"
when you can hold an old ford straight with your knees, you have reached a new level
I like this video. A lot of people suffer from sloppy steering wheel and we need to understand why we are getting it
am a mopar guy and came across this video also have a play in my steering box , one of the best and simplest videos i'ver watched thanks and greetings from LEbanon
From a mopar guy this video is awesome. This video will also work for any muscle car.
Prob the best video shared with me after complaining about steering slop in my '68 Mustang.
31 years ago I fought this on my 67 Mustang coupe and gave up. 2 power steering control valves (dont use a pickle fork. I pulled the ball stud right out), springs, steering box (3 or 4 foot long solid shaft), upper control arm bushings, idler arm, 100 alignments, lower ball joints. It won't straighten out right after turning. Tried adjusting the control valve. I think the ride height is off. The lower control arms aren't parallel to the ground. The shock towers are good. Oh yeah, new shocks. Bearings. I haven't driven it in nearly 20 years and that was just to change houses. It wanders everywhere. (Sigh.) You reminded me - Headers require the extension for the power cylinder shaft (I have it.) Maybe I should jack it up and check it out again now that I'm old and broke instead of young and broke. Sheesh! I was watching Def Leopard, White Lion, and Skid Row on MTV (They really played music before, kids) when I was trying to fix it. Now all that stuff is classic grandpa rock. (Still kicks the crap out of the new stuff, young whipper snappers!)
Excellent video and steering troubleshooting tips, I wish we had such video's to watch when I was restoring my former 1965 Mustang Fastback in the early 1980's, I had to read a lot of Mustang Monthly magazine articles, and buy several books on such subjects.
I almost had an accident this morning....my steering wheel kept feeling like it was going to come off....so loose. Had the rack and pinion replaced 5 DAYS AGO. This morning on my way to work ,I felt something come loose...scary situation. Got off the freeway and as soon I pulled into the has station,I completely lost all power at my steering wheel....my steering wheel just kept doing complete circles right and going left....my tires just went straight....my car is back at the mechanics. Just glad we got off the freeway when we did...could have been really bad.
What happened?
Definitely a unique way to show all these potential problems.
Though I may not have a cougar, I do have a 68 mustang. With lots of the parts the same I really enjoy this channel and will subscribe to it. Honestly this channel has helped me with my car mainly because I can't find any about mustangs that are has high of quality
+TANOFTZ Thanks! Glad you like the videos.
This exactly.
Really great your video, I am going around the entire front steering system on my 63 Ford and did not realized the hydraulic pressure was important when verifying the Pitman arm end play, thanks a lot for this one.
Not just muscle cars, I’m in the UK and this was helpful in figuring out my steering issues with an L200 👍
Short but most importantly informative valuable diagnostic information..thank you and well done.
FANTASTIC INFO!!
65 Galaxie . Replaced almost everything steering. But think it’s the column now … thanks
Great video! Stuff like this is useful no matter what you drive. One comment though, I've always liked to replace the old rag joint for a couple of reasons. One is these cars aren't getting any newer, so it's a safety issue. I just don't trust old ones. Other reason is it seems to help with steering precision, less flex.
I'm actually pretty good at driving with a loose steering lol
Lol me too🤣
I suck 😂😂
I feel like I have drinking a 40oz
I got an 89 f250 I feel you
Right
Cool vibes...this guy is the cougar whisperer.
This video was very informative to me. After the first time watching, I ended up grabbing my notebook and taking this stuff down. Hopefully, I'll find my issue! Thank you guys.
This video is awesome , they use several cars each one with unique problems and that helps to cover every scenario
Great video. Nice to see the experts showing their knowledge. Good job. Thanks for sharing what You do best! ! !
Two outer tie rod boots were referenced in this video, one with a steel sleeve, one without. If the tie rod does NOT have a machined area around the casting at the ball joint, the steel sleeved boot WILL NOT fit. If it does, the non-steel sleeved boot will be sloppy loose. So don't order new boots just because you like the looks of one or the other, make sure which style tie rod you have before ordering new boots! I learned this the hard way because my friend's '67 Mustang had one of each.
Helped great for my squarebody, passing granny drivers on the highway is a lot less sketchy now
Very laid back but informative video. RIGHT ON EH!?
Don’t own a cougar but I wish someone would do this for 84-88 Monte Carlo ss GBodys Grand Nationals too . This is so awesome full of knowledge. And you provide part numbers with image geez 😇👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
There seems to be some confusion over a statement Don Whitnell (DW) makes at around the 15:10 mark. He says "Most people put these in wrong". DW is referring to putting the shaft together incorrectly, not putting the clips in. The upper and lower shafts can fit two ways, but only work in one way. You should always mark the two pieces before you separate them so that they go back together the same way.
Sometimes you can't adjust it out though.. And be careful when buying a new one from parts house, take a big vice grip and some big pliers, test the new one before you leave. I had a shop replace mine, hell has more slack now than before, got the new refurbished from Auto Zone, after researching I found out they repack them but don't always rebuild the valve assembly. So now, I have to remove my headers, loosen my transmission support, and engine mounts and lift the engine. I have a 351W in a 68 cougar.
i really loved the video, you were very friendly & very informative. i loved the audience & i actually learned a lot. i live in philly & have an 81 gmc 3500 2 wheel drive. no duelly, just a really heavy duty pick up truck. my front end has bin horrible. i replaced both lower control arms, i have my new pitman & idler arm waiting to go on, my upper control arms are in good shape, but God when you are on the highway does it seriously wander.....with a load on the back i stay off the highway, lol. i'm gonna check my steering box the way you showed me, i am honestly probably getting a rebuilt one...i know the chevy trucks are notorious for bad pitman & idlers....its about the fifth one in ten years already.
but thank you very much...
Fantastic! Thanks for such a useful primer on front ends!
Great work, really helps to see how to check these parts and see it done.
Got a Dodge van with steering problems. Thanks for making this video, now I understand you put your hand on each joint while someone wiggles the wheels. I was unsure how you tested ball joints because the wheel bearings also typically have a bit of slop. But if you put your hand on the joint it doesn't matter how much play in the wheel bearing there is.
Thank you for this useful video! Many American cars of the 1960s had similar steering and suspension systems up front so your information goes beyond Cougars, and even beyond Fords!
tom petersons I haven't heard that in 30 years. as a kid my dad made me have the tom cut.
Thanks for your quick reply. I've noticed a small drip mark by right passenger tire but don't actually see a leak and don't have to top off the fluid. I'm just glad that I can drive it... Thanksgiving trip! Best to you!
Great video, love it. It's funny to look at someone face when u tell them u have 2-80 AC and 3 on the tree. 2 windows down and 80mph!
Someone commented that even though we don't have a cougar most classics can relate to this one way or another. Ford, GM, Chrysler pretty much same general idea and concepts. It's a dying art form, this so when u could actually work on your own vehicle without s computer.
I agree
Great job! I've put up with my jeep steering for 5 years thinking it was like that because of the older steering design (has no lift but has always wondered with loose steering). But I realize it is 17 years old and probably needs more than new shocks.. the symptoms describes at the start is exactly what I get.. just have to get it hoisted up now. Cheers
Super informative! Should feel good knowing what I'm looking at when I get home to my 1970 ford econoline and start makin trouble for myself, lol. The product shots and graphics were a nice touch to further identify parts.
Fantastic video, great diagnostics and walking us through the process.
I just installed a Borgeson Steering kit in my 1970 Mustang with tilt steering column! I made a major mistake. I told Borgeson I had a tilt Column, and they told me to buy the GM DD Rag Joint connector. Well, that wouldn't fit. So instead of really thinking about what I was doing, I ground the end of my steering rod to match the new DD Rag Joint. Now when I turn the wheel hard, there's a "thunk" and the rod moves slightly! All I had to do if I had given this situation some thought, is split the old rag joint in half and reuse the end that fit!
Borgeson also told me to "Beat" the shaft out of the column in order to cut 1" off the outer Column housing! After watching this video, it's obvious that this is not the right move!
Now I'm in a situation where it's likely that I'm going to need to take the column back out, and weld a piece of 3/4 DD to the end of my inner shaft! Any comments from the guys at West Coast Cougar regarding this mess!? And by the way, you guys absolutely ROCK! You're my favorite problem solvers!
That was a $2000 steering column
That was a $2000 steering column
I know my vehicle is way off from what your showing here but I have an 01 Nissan Xterra suv that I bought last year. I paid too much for the truck and have put a lot of new parts into it since but I absolutely love the truck. I used to be strictly ford as my first ever car was a 84 ford mustang but I wanted an suv and had explorers, etc and wanted something different. I am getting ready to put new ball joints into the xterra as the truck is wandering bad and they are squeaking horribly. But there is also a TON of play in the wheel atleast 3-4" of play side to side. The play seemed between the pitman arm and steering wheel and I wasn't sure what it could be but after doing some research I learned about adjusting the steering box.. After watching your video I feel much more confident that the box needs adjusting.. Now I can't wait to get outside in the morning and see if I can adjust it. I recently put all new brakes, rotors, drums, and front wheel bearing and races in and just put new tires on the truck. And i'm putting new ball joints in and I need to get an alignment but I wanted to sort out the steering issues first. I'm really glad you made and uploaded this video. Thanks for the work you put into this video. If it wasn't for the internet and guys uploading these types of videos It would take much longer to fix things.
Problem solved???
Need a class on rebuilding the steering column.
Excellent video. I wanted to know where the steering column clip were on the collapsible shaft. My 73 Detomaso Pantera will need new ones.
When adjusting the gearbox, aren't you supposed to remove the box and adjust the input shift side first, then the adjuster screw? Per the manuals.
What keeps my steering wheel from tilt un locking and pulling out?
Outstanding diagnostic video!
Fantastic Video! Very Intelligent Detailed Explanations of The Subject Matter
I’ve got a 55 Commer truck with worm and gear wheel it’s tiring to drive with a sloppy steering wheel. All of the solutions have an adjustment nut while mine is adjust by a weird shims arrangement
That was an excellent video. Bookmarked for further review when I go out and diagnose my ol' Mustang steering. Thanks!
you should lift the frontaxel. when adjusting the steering gear and turn the roadwheels all the way from side to side..
if the steering link arm has worn tie rod mounts can the link be bushed my car has no replacement for it. and the link is cast. The only thing i can think to do is bush the holes. my car is 1963 Pontiac lemans
I have a 67 Failane with the same problem this video helped a lot thanks for posting
Great video..very informational..thanks I have a 67 ford econoline van 6 cyl that I'm having steering issues with very stiff sat in a field for over 20 years original belll telephone truck from Mount Vernon Washington, first step is lube the steering box and I'm trying to figure out if I can use grease or 90 weight gear oil, it hasn't been lubed I'm assuming since the Nixon Administration if eve..r thank you
This might help: www.stangerssite.com/lubrication.html
Great vid. Should you perform an alignment after doing this work?
I had two 72 Cougars back around 1983 1 driver and 1 parts car, wound up junking both of them by 1985. Damn I wish I would have kept both of them.
Yes I just bought my 1967 cougar. The car is a good car. But the car has been basically rebuilt. It really is tight but as You are saying. My car has a lot of play in the steering wheel. I am constantly turning from side to side.
Check your wheels. Big wheels will certainly make you feel every single pothole you hit.
I was surprised to see that the power assist looks very similar to the C3 Corvettes!
If there is no noise on Idling, but when the car starts to move it develops knocking sound, which gets maximum around 45 mph, can it still be engine noise, or it is more likely the suspension? Thank you for the informative film.
I would recommend posting that at www.classiccougarcommunity.com and getting some feedback from other Cougar owners.
The 69-70 instrument lenses are in the works. We teamed with Daniel Carpenter to get correct repros done.
I put aire ride on my 65 cadillac and now it wonders to the point its nerve-racking to get it on the freeway. Any advice?
I have questions.about a. 2021 must thas
Hello, I learned some things today! Can you tell what I can do to get my tilt steering u-joint rebuilt? It has a lot of play in it as you showed in your video and I can't seem to find a good used one..
Thank you,
Mark
I think is way past due to somebody to reproduce the cluster lenses for 69-73 Cougars,since the 80s they're all fogged and this is very irritating,if somebody does it,it'll sell like crazy
That would be nice.. at least the XR7 / Eliminator clock lens is reproduced: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69clklens.html
Also we do have restored lenses that look as good as new. The plastic can be polished to perfection as long as there aren't any deep scratches. Here are the 69-70 restored lenses: www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=C9W%20gauge%20lens%20restored
I bought all new stuff for my 1990 Ford F-150.
I keep gettin told not to adjust a new gearbox, but there is alot of unsafe play in it.
Should I adjust my new(remanufactured) gearbox anyways?
Everything is new, but still alot of slack..
Hell my 1968 Falcon had sloppy steering the day it came off the lot brand new. It may sound unscientific, but back in the day the way I ''fixed'' it was by putting R/70 or wider tires in the front.
Wanted to say thank you for this video. I've been beating my head against the wall trying to resolve my steering.
If the sloppy steering is only towards the driver side and not the passenger side, does that change anything?
I can grab above the rag joint and it rotates to the driver side, but it is tight to the passenger side.
Sounds like maybe you need to replace the control valve.
I was looking for stuff for my 83 econoline and ended up watching this entire video. lol
i was looking for stuff for my 90 f-350 and i actually fixed it with this video XD
Thank you very much! I learned a lot from just watching this!
Really great informative video!! applies to all older American cars. And thanks for tips on taillights of my 1972 Dodge Charger.
it seems to me if you have a lot of miles and have to adjust the Steering box You should Also Lube the Box with Grease?
Great video!
And as others say, even if I don't own an cougar I have had a lot of help watching. (Own a -71 Firebird)
New subscriber. : )
Wow! What a great video. Thanks for putting this together. I learned so much from this.
my dads mustang 66 does this with the steering you have to steer about 2-4 inches left to right just to drive straight, i believe he has tried to "adjust" that bolt but we are not mechanics so im sure that box got ruined
Have an issue with tbe power steering, steering wheel would slam to left, replaced power steering pump, new lines, rebuilt control value, scared to drive it. Also trys to stall when wheel is turned to the left......no ideas what could be wrong...
I've heard the hoses may be reversed. On the rack. Don't know if it's true or not.
I was told I need to replace Hi-Power steering pressure hose at 266.00 I guess I've drove the car to get worse, now they say I need remanufactured Complete Rack Assembly Steering/Suspension and replace the steering suspension rack and pinion d total = 800.00 . My Dad is telling me to replace hose for now and if it needs rack and pinion etc. to replace it later cuz d stirring wheel does not seem to b that bad ,The only time it pulls a little bit to d R/L (I don't remember ) is wen it is low on PS oil and not that often I feel it pulling I hear sounds and it is leaking of the oil pretty bad when I park it and when I drive away there is oil on ground , I hav to put oil in a lot and this is a 2005 Nissan Quest 3.5 my Dad (85 yrs ) is worried that that's a lot of money to spend on a van wen its timing chain can go out any time but I'm just confused that I have to get all done OR can I get hose first and c what happens ... I feel like they r saying I hav to hav d whole works done at d same time ...need to kn what I should do :/
my steering wheel have plenty of play so is this the culprit cause i will do this right now my steering wheel is hard to turn sometimes and that's dangerous so i want my steering strong and sturdy and not loose i been driving like that for a very long time and it's time i fix it
And I'm considering purchasing a red head. Was it worth it in your opinion.
No experience with those... took us a second to realize you were talking about steering boxes...
It's annoying because I have to turn the wheel so much farther than nesscesary because the play
Would it cause death wobble
Is it possible to while part is on the car
Hi guys, I just discovered your channel and I love it. Although I have a 67 Mustang Coupe. I know some parts are similar. I have the same issues in my steering. Moving the steering wheel the rag joint has movement along with the pitman arm. I haven't check my ball joints, control arms etc.
Could the steering box need some adjustments?
I appreciate any info you can provide.
Thanks guys.
🎉2024-08-06 still the best video
Yeah don't touch the exhaust pipe it could be just a little bit hot
Could you tell me how to fix the problem at 7:33. The gear box not moving but the steering column have about 1/4 turn slag. Thank you so much.
You probably need to look at the Rag Joint: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=rag%20joint&CatID=0
As well as replacing the Retainer Clips at 14:25 : secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17949/32067/retainer-clip-split-shaft-fixed-tilt-column-pair-repro-1968-1973-mercury-cougar-1968-1973-ford-mustang.html.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar Thank you so much for your willingness to help. Great channel, I love it.
steering box rebuild on exchange basis for a Mitsubishi 2006 endeavor what would the cost be?
Those are substantially different than what come on the 67-73 Mercury Cougars we sell parts for. You can get the one you need through most auto parts stores. Here is a link to one at NAPA: www.napaonline.com/en/p/PS_361518
Wow! That was an incredibly helpful video!
Thanks for the info…. I have a chevelle but def help me know what I’m looking for💪🏽
insightful video. really well put. I like the diagrams so I understand what to look for.
That that that that that that that that that ragjoint.
Been swerving on the road but then again I've been drinking
I love old cars and trucks !
I've always wondered why the steering was so loose in all the old American cars I've driven. I live in Sweden and the old Volvos are not even half as bad; no matter how rancid and rotten the car is. Is there a difference in construction? I know many of these cars are made more for comfort so the steering should be smoother and there'd be less feedback but having to turn the wheel left to right to left just to stay straight is definitely not how it's supposed to behave. If there's anyone in the know about these things; I would love a reply!
Replied 🤨
I have a 73 nova, same issues... its getting time to ride so hopefully ….tbc
Thanks for the video . I have a 76 International Scout II and had a friend mechanic rebuild the steering gear box ( it was his first time to rebuild a steering gear box) and when he got done the truck don't wanna straighten back out while turning or going around curves. I have to bump the steering wheel from left to right about 4 times to each side before it will drive straight again. Once it's driving straight it will stay straight. Do you think it's an adjustment issue or he might not have rebuilt it correctly? I'm scared to drive it now. Thanks for any advise you can give .
You'll have to go to a Scout forum to find answers for that one, we know nothing of those particular steering boxes.
When I turn left it goes right?
Sounds like you need a new discombobulator
@@WestCoastClassicCougar
OR flux capacitor
Excellent video.
Fantastic very informative
that control arm, will it need to be rebuilt by a professional , or can an experienced mechanic be trusted on that. I'm curious because I'm fixing one myself. I care about my and other's safety and if I'd do better sending that part off that's what I'll do.
The upper and lower control arms are available new, and are pretty straightforward to install. An experienced mechanic can handle that.
West Coast Classic Cougar thanky thanky
I like the hood on the blue/white original color cougar....
I have a 97 ford aerostar. Has play in stearing wheel. Moves a quarter inch up, down , left or right. Mabey needs a bearing new. Any videos or help thanks
Paul Novak check idler arm also my friend
Thank you