Virago XV535 EP10 - Stator Removal and Test. Welding, Grinding, Cutting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2021
- In this video i show all the footage of the stator removal. 5 of the 6 bolts holding the stator, harness and pickup coil were properly stuck and I had to resort to welding, grinding and cutting, so this is more of a stuck bolt video than anything but i do a static test at the end to show my findings.
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I've just done mine,I sat down with the casing in my lap took a number 3 JIS screwdriver and a hammer.
I made sure the screwdriver was a good fit, turned the screwdriver while tapping the end of the handle it eventually came undone and repeat until you are sat with a big stupid grin on your face!
I think the main thing is the correct jis screwdriver and gripping the casing between your knees and a wrist like a blacksmith, thank you for the video it was a great help.
My next job is valve lapping and valve stem oil seals, I would not have attempted this without your videos, thank you. 😁🤟✅
Thank you, yes definitely need to have the right tool, and I do resort to heat and hammers a lot 😂 glad the videos helped, it’s just nuts, bolts and spanners, always worth digging in
Good job done chap bet u be glad to have it all done and back on road I really need to get mine back together soon got week of work coming up soon so should get done and back on bike
Yeah it takes forever doesn’t it.
Hey, buddy, go buy yourself a nice set of pliers. That's all I needed to remove the stubborn screws. You really made that task a whole lot harder than it needed to be.
If your stuck bolts came out with pliers, they weren’t stuck in the first place.
thanks for Video
What a Nightmare that was !! I feel your pain !! I was thinking of getting my crankcases powder coated for my Bobber Build which entails removal of said Items in your video ! But now I think I will just spray them, leaving the Gen in situ. Don,t really want to go through that
What is your advice please ? Thanks for posting big help !! Take Care
Well any engine powder coating is going to entail a shed load of disassembly, and personally not something I’d want to do unless I was fully restoring a bike and stripping the engine anyway. It can produce an awful lot of hidden issues that are best left alone. STUCK BOLTS being the main one for me. I’d just spray it if your not too bothered about the overall finish.
Crazy!!
Well I got there !
@@memybikeni9931 most definitely and great job!!!
@@karlh4313 I’ve definitely come to learn that stuck bolts will never win that’s for sure 😂
@@memybikeni9931 😀😂
That was crazy!
Im about to remove my stator cause the battery is not charging. Not looking forward to it after watching this video... I came here for a quick how to guide, not 6 reasons to ride the other working bikes I have lol.
These weren’t even that tight to be fair, just mostly rounded, so as long as you get some purchase they should be fine. Definitely recommend replacing them with hex sockets/heads, if yours are cross heads, which was the issue with mine.
@@memybikeni9931 I removed the stator easily... So happy lol. Mine did have signs that it had been removed before and the bolt heads were in very good condition. A large screw driver got them undone first go. Dropped stator off to be re-wound to a guy near my work on Tuesday, will pick it up friday and fit it this weekend. $150aud, seems like a fair price, he said it had been re-wound before. Interesting.
@@aaronpatty4102 yes that sounds like a fair price. Shame it need rewinding again though, must of had a hard life.
@@memybikeni9931 That was partly my fault, I rode the bike with a flat battery a couple of times and I'm sure this played a part in wrecking the regulator/rectifier and the stator.
I have it all back together but now when I try and start it the starter motor struggles to turn it over fast enough to start it. I push started it on the road first try so the pickup etc is all working, when it was running there was a ticking sound coming from the case where the starter gear is. I took it apart and there seems to be a gear mesh problem with the starter motor gear, flywheel gear looks fine.
Any ideas?
@@aaronpatty4102 possibly a starter clutch issue, is the starter motor struggling to move or just no power to it or a bad starter ? Maybe clean the ground and check the feed to it.
Was there oil in that area when you took the cover off? Mine did..
Yes it is open to the crankcase in exactly the same way as the clutch side. If you take the rotor off, you can see the access through.
Does anyone know where the rectifier is located on a 1987 xv 535
Hi Rosa, it’s under the aluminium cover plate, directly below the left side tank cover. It’s an unusual place but it gets good air flow for cooling.
All mine were at 1.4 is that ok?
Allowing for resistance in your probes, you’ll get some variance, I would have thought, 1.4 ohms doesn’t sound like a problem. What issue do you have ?
@@memybikeni9931 misfire and when battery is charged @12.6v and hook up start up it says 13.1 when I rev it to 5000 rpm it goes back to 12+ volts definitely way under spec. Going to check pickup today just checked that last night and stator.
@@memybikeni9931 they were all the same I hear that's good.
@@firebird14420 13.1 at idle ? That’s ok, but drops to 12 when rev, meaning it’s just not charging. Certainly sounds like a couple of issues, but misfire probably due to low voltage revving it. Test the stator while on the bike, see what’s coming of of it. Could be a bunch of poor connections, so go through them first before replacing anything.
@@memybikeni9931 it was on the bike, when I check manuals it says stator coil resistance should be 0.34-0.42 but mine was at 1.4.. I had the battery still attached I don't know if that matters. Or why mine would be much higher. I'll check the wires but I'm thinking they are right. But will check. Would the ignitor/CDI cause this or rectifier. I couldn't even find the pickup for it only stator rectifier and CDI...
You need to rename your channel to 1001 inventive ways to remove effing threaded things. You think they were over torqued or just time = corrosion / self welding?
Hahahah. Its hard to say as it’s unusual to get stuck screws inside an engine, corrosion is unlikely with all the oil, even ally oxide stays away. I couldn’t see any thread locker but then the heat may have eradicated it so I think it may have been that. One thing for sure is this engine has no stuck screws left. 😊
@@memybikeni9931 Hey brother put engine case in oven(low). Loctite!
@@Beartore I didn’t really see any evidence of locktite in there, and I don’t think the stator had ever been out so unlikely that had been used but who knows, maybe ! They were more tight than stuck and if they had been hex head bolts I don’t thing there would have been an issue but torquing down domed cross heads is a bit dumb in my view. So I replaced with hex sockets. Oven may have been an idea, thanks for the tip, I’ll try that next time.
This is typical design issues, Phillips headed bolts in a high torque application. Replace with cap screws like are used in the rest of the engine and you won't have this problem again, stupid design decision of Yamaha. The other design issue is letting oil be anywhere near the stator, sigh. People don't change their oil often enough, so you get combustion byproducts that create acids in the oil which then soften the varnish on the stator wire causing shorts in the stator. Often the shorts won't show up unless the engine is running, as the magnetic field sweeps around and the wires shift around.
Lastly on using the impact - you can't just lay the part on the table. Properly support it, and do what you can to immobilize it, put it on a folded up towel or whatever. If the part can move or wiggle the impact won't break the screws free.
Totally agree on the first part, I replaced with cap head, not sure if you watched all the way through. Thanks for the info on the stator oiling issue, I didn’t know that, very informative thank you. In all honesty the Phillips/JIS or what ever they started out as we’re already rounded. In my view heat cycles knacker them, so impact was never an option. It let me break the welder out anyway, which I do most times I’m stripping an engine apart.
dirty oil is conductive enough to start galvanic corrosion which is what makes the steel screw stick