Hoping to get this repair done on my virago before the riding season in MN starts. Got the part and the manual but I don't think I would have the confidence to attempt it without these videos. You're a boss for making this
Lesson #1 never do a job on internals with out every single gasket replacement it's always best to buy gaskets in kits for an entire job often you can gets kits for an entire vehicle for a 100-150 much better than paying 12-20 per gasket #2 use this video as reference of what to do because this was perfect great job on recording and diagnosing thank you so much
Thanks for making this, it helped to refresh my memory, I have to change another stator (used a cheap one last time, lesson learned). Instead of doing the cardboard outline the way you did, use the new gasket to trace your outline and hold your bolts.
Using the new gasket works, but I'd be worried about tearing it while working in my cramped garage. The cardboard is disposable, stands up with all the bolts in place, and brings out my artistic side! Did you reinforce the gasket with anything while doing the job?
Great video, but maybe I can save a step or two for others. I learned this from a Yamaha Mechanic. Leave the starter relay attached to the case. Just remove the one hex head bolt and its round assembly (this screws into the shaft for the gears). Make sure battery is disconnected. Remove wire from starter relay to starter (starter side) I used a M6 1.0 thread bolt (2) to attach the plastic relay cover to the case cover. This made it easy to attach I changed the stator from the other side of bike by sliding the cover (with stator) under the engine, and sliding it back under when done. I used a box to hold chrome cover while working.
Hey Alex, Thanks for putting a video of this up. I've been working on my uncle's 87' 700 virago, so far, for about seven hours. The hardest parts have been the starter motor philips screws were stripped and the assembly next to the flywheel spinny thingy with the spring kept coming apart as I'm trying to get the cover to go back on. I originally pictured this taking a few hours, but it has been more of a journey than that. I also found it hard to get my cover to "shunk" back on. The rods that go into the cover had to be oiled after I took so long that the RTV dried. Its been a day, ya know? Will update later this week once I finish up and put oil back in it.
the reason many people strip the 'philips' screws is because exactly that ; they aint philips screws. they are JIS screws ; Japan industry standard. not philips :) they are almost the same... and thats what catches people, they have a philips screwdriver or bit, but not a JIS bit or screw driver. And it makes a difference having the right bit! trust me :)
great vidio, thanks,, just an FYI, those are not Philips screws. they are JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) look almost the same, just have a flat tip. thats why they strip so easy if you use the wrong driver. cheers
Omg I know that now! I bought a set online (not Amazon, just can't remember where) shortly after I made the part 2 video and immediately stopped stripping screws everywhere. They are 100% the tool for the job.
Very informative. I think I just found my problem, thanks to you. My battery was not charging, but it may have been because I didn't have the rectifier grounded. I will check and hopefully it works. Thanks for the video.
thought i had the same problem but being a bike noob this video still helped me alot, i got a virago bobber from my dad a while back and started tinkering with it, i saw that the voltage regulator was zip tied to part of the farm, me not knowing i just figured that was the best place my dad thought would work, so i ended up bolting it to the battery box. me not know the casing was the ground for it, i ungrounded it doing so. the first part of the video let me know what i did wrong, ended up finding a place to bolt it to the frame and know my bike is charging again. thank you so much, it has been stressing me out for a couple weeks as i didnt think i had the mechanical skill to replace the stator
@@zeroreality well hopefully they're good quality they look nice, thats my next add on for my bike is some cases, bobber or not i like functionality as well
Thank you for posting this mate. I’m having similar problems on a 1991Virago XV750, battery went dead while riding. I replaced it with a new one but still doesn’t charge. I’ll start by checking the stator.
After taking everything apart except for one Allen bolt that I couldn't get off to put on my new stator I realized that my rectifier was blown and that is a 5-minute job... so anyone who's attempting to tackle the stator check your rectifier first you could save hours of grief..lol
Don't be so sure. The stator and rectifier work as a pair, so a lot of the time they die together. You may have had to do this job either way! (This is what I told me neighbour after he paid to have his RSTD stator done, got the bike back and found out the rectifier was he problem all along.)
@@zeroreality yeah hopefully I won't have to replace the stator but I have it if I need to so far it seems the power is better and my light headlight is shining bright but I'll keep a close eye on it. My old rectifier looks like it exploded like a fire cracker ..that's how bad it was.lol I got someone who can take that bolt off for me if I need to get to the stator. But your video was the best one to show me how to get all that stuff off to get to it. Only have forty thousand miles on my bike someone told me to Staters should still be good we'll see... I will keep you & your people posted.
@@jpstevens7430 Cheers bud, and good luck. I got a little voltage gauge that just read off the battery, and installed it on my bars. It let me read the voltage in real-time and helped me get over being gun-shy on the bike.
I hope so too since that is much easier to swap out. Part 2 has a little bit on testing your rectifier (you need to take it off the bike to test it properly). th-cam.com/video/w_Ui_FIkR_M/w-d-xo.htmlm49s
They were an aftermarket set I won at a silent auction on a charity ride. They were cheap plastic, bounced a lot, and flew open a couple of times (I lost two bottles of beer once 😭). Try to find bags that open on the top, not the sides.
Does anyone have pictures of the right side of the handlebars push button starting switch. I took it apart and can't remember how it goes back together
I have an odd charging problem/issue. Back in 09, I replaced the R/R that was shorted. The odd part is, it only charge at 1500 rpm, ~13.5v At idle, 1k rpm and Pass 2000 rpm, it goes back to ~12.5v ish......I think it might be the stator.
What's your battery's voltage when the bike is off? Does the voltage sag when you hold the throttle past 2000rpm, or does it dip, then slowly rise? Might just be a dead battery.
Been trying to figure out what is blowing my 30A main fuse. Found today (thru elimination) that it's the regulator line. When I remove the regulator from the passenger peg (so it's not grounded), I don't get continuity thru the regulator feed (red wire) any more. For some reason, a previous owner cut the white wires from the stator and regulator and just wired them directly, so I can't "test" the stator per se. Can I assume that the short from the regulator red wire to the regulator frame that the short is in the regulator, not the stator?
Short answer: no, I don't think so. I want to be clear here and make sure I understand the wiring. The previous owner removed the little plastic connectors from the stator and rectifier and soldered the wires together directly? If that's the case, then I suggest you first cut those wires (one at a time) and fit some kind of connector (of a different colour) on each wire. I'd use bullet connectors and a different colour of shrink wrap on each one, doing one at a time so you don't mess up the order. That way you can isolate the stator from the rectifier and test them individually for the short.
I never did this on my 750, but I imagine it's almost entirely the same. Everything was in the same place on those bikes. The only difference aside from the motor was the 1100 had a separate reserve tank and a fuel pump.
i have the same bike.my problem is my rear parking/signal light stop working.no power at all. brake light works. front parking light works but wont flash when L or R signal is pressed. headlight works. checked the fuses at the handlebar and there good. What can it be?
First, check any wiring you did most recently. I had done a bit when my flashers and break like stopped working on a ride; turns out one of the wires had shifted under the seat and the sheathing wore off and created a short. Ended up boiling the "41R-71" (located under the seat) box which controls flashers, break, and starter relays. It's about 2in x 2in x 1in and is the largest black box under the seat which is easily visible. That's my best guess, so you should start there. Obviously check to make sure the plug didn't come out first and that there are no exposed wires.
Alex, great video's love the attitude, it's always better to laugh and keep working. I've got a 96 xv 750 recently replaced stator cover gasket (uselessly as i was replacing the shift lever seal) ever since my starter will not disengage. I didn't see any funky breaks around the starter gears when i had the cover off. I've heard it could be a stuck switch/relay, however i am thinking the drive lever collar screw has worn the starter lever/actuator/fork pins. No reference though for tolerable wear. Any ideas?
Check to make sure the starter gear slides on and off easily, and that the "thingy" that dis/engages rotates nicely too. The starter gear assembly should only be in-mesh with the main spin-a-ma-thinger while you have the button pressed. Take apart (again) the cover for the starter "activator" and just check that you can manually move the thing back and forth in place. Good luck man. Let me know how it goes.
Success!! Double checked the starter actuator, which had some play, decided to go further and take off the stator cover and check for wear or a broken spring. Got lucky no broken parts, threw it all back on, and made sure the actuator had no slop. (or that i put the actuator lever, on the right way) So far so good but the problems emerged progressively the more time i put in the saddle. Thank you Alex
Nice bud! Make sure you torque/tighten the two bolts that hold the actuator in place; they may have stripped the thread. Do they feel "spongey" when going in? That's the tell-tale sign the threads have been fucked.
No noticable sponge on the drive lever pivot screw or on the solenoid mounting nuts. According to the clymer book the pivot screw take 88 in.-lbs; the solenoid mounting nuts 71 inch lbs. But I don't have an inch pound torque wrench. Nevertheless they stopped with moderate pressure with 1/4 drive ratchet. The drive lever collar screw however was certainly spongy, giving a false sense of proper torque. ( Especially when the lever was inverted) I will look into a new Drive lever collar screw to be sure!
Hi, can u explain how u got this solenoid thing of (u start talking about it at @ 07:48 , i need to remove that allen bolt, but i can't get it loose) Thanks in advance
The starter solenoid was actually fairly easy by comparison to the rest of this tear-down. The solenoid actuates a lever arm that engages the starter motor gear. That lever arm pivots on the allen bolt you are talking about. I had to get at it with an extender from below as it is pointing up towards the handlebars. If the allen is stuck it may have been over-tightened, and the only thing I can recommend is getting an extender on there and use a hammer on the handle of your extender to jerk it loose. If you just try to apply more and more force you may end up rounding the inside of the allen nut. Good luck, and if you need more help just let me know.
@@zeroreality it seems that it is already a bit rounded inside :/ Makes me wonder what in the world did the previous owner do... Can i assume it is a bolt with metric thread? I hope i dont have to drill it out, but i'm affraid i'll have no other choice if the problem persists
@@1982seba Most sets come with metric and SAE (standard) sizes. If the previous owner replaced that bolt they may have done so with "whatever fits the threads" instead of the correct bolt. However, it might just mean fiddling with it and swearing loudly at it to get it out. That's the method I fall back on!
dkfde29 in the part 2 video, I figured out that it's the gearbox's neutral light switch. There's a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the engine, mine was brass. The stator wire should have a rubber protector that goes over a U shaped wire end. The U shape slides onto the screw on the bottom of the engine (screw doesn't need to come out, only loosen).
I checked the Clymer manual and the Haynes manual; neither mention a specific output. They both say the main fuse is 20amps, so it can't be more than 20a x 12v ~ 240 watts. With a healthy battery, it should read about 14.8v at 3000rpm, but anything over 14v is a good sign. I've pinned this comment just in case someone else knows, they'll see this first.
Have the same bike just a couple years older but exact same set up. Just changed the stator and now that its back together same way as before, my clutch wont work and there is no tension at all no matter how much u try and adjust both sides of clutch cable. Have took it apart twice to see if anything im missing and nothing looks out of place or broke does anyone know what i could do or could have done wrong
If it is connected at both ends, try pulling the lever while the connection in visible on the engine side. If it doesn't pull on that end, then the cable must be broken or something.
It pulls on that end the cable isnt broke it seems like the clutch isnt wanting to release or something. It pulls the lever on the motor that it is supposed to but still does nothing
If it would let me post my video i would. It was working perfect before we chaged the stator and now that its changed and back together the clutch just doesnt want to engage no matter what u do or how much u adjust but it does move it on the motor it just doesn't do anything at all. Had it on the back stand so the back tire was free to spin and no matter what u do it doesn't engage and stop the tire from spinning or help it get it gear feels like u are shifting without touching the clutch when u put it in gear
@@Joker52601 How fast does the tire spin? Even in neutral is should spin very slowly just from residual friction on the clutch-plates. The clutch-plates are on the other side of the motor, so they couldn't have been touched during a stator replacement.
Ya they was not touched only thing that was touched at all was the clutch release bearing that the cable connect to it had fell out when we took the cover off but put them back the way they was it seemed. It spins a lil in natural like u said and when u have it in gear it spins a lil faster and u can get it to spin a lil faster by hitting the gas but not by much or as fast as it should spin when u hit the gas
Hahaha got a mynew starter relay and put it on my 750 it started but what a pain in the kneck to replace did not fit right i beat the red kneck piss out of and got it hee haww happy bike from here in daytona march 8i live righ here near daytona boardwalk
The starter relay and flasher relays are in a sealed black box under the seat; there should be a "rubber band" holding it to the frame right in the middle. It has a part number 41R-71 printed in white on one side. If you're having trouble starting out flashers not working, try cleaning the contacts on it first.
@@zeroreality ya i found this i ben working under the seat but that part is not the starter solanoid relay its the other one flasher for lights i got the part coming in the mail i let you g know good help but i still cant find it followed posotive wire only bring to the fuse casing
rich.johnj OH, you want the solenoid! That's easier. Check the video at about 6:30 and you can see where it is. There are two screws on the back side that are a major pain to take out (I had to use two extenders to reach from the other side of the bike) and you'll need a T30 bit too take off this "bar" thing it hooks on.
@@zeroreality ya i was so glad to see this video on here i dont need to drop the oil to pull the starter solanoid do i ////????/ idont know if its the problem yet i put new rectifier and the stator is good so hoping its not the starter gear mechanism thats bad you pulled that out also [alot of videos about the stareger gear mechanism] not the starter relay thanks a million freind hav a shot of moonshine o me
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello my friend
Can you tell me the number of threads, the dimension of the winding wire of the stator. Star or delta winding connection?
Sorry, no. I didn't take those measurements. I bought one off eBay similar to this: www.ebay.ca/itm/272268238568
I hope that helps!
@@zeroreality Does anyone know how to tell me the number of threads and the thickness of the wire for this stator magnet.Please help
@@musicfromaroundtheworld5453 I've pinned your comment to the top of the comments in case someone comes by and can answer you. Good luck!
Hoping to get this repair done on my virago before the riding season in MN starts. Got the part and the manual but I don't think I would have the confidence to attempt it without these videos. You're a boss for making this
Post of the reason I make any video is to illustrate how easy it is to fix things yourself. Let me know how it goes, good luck!
Lesson #1 never do a job on internals with out every single gasket replacement it's always best to buy gaskets in kits for an entire job often you can gets kits for an entire vehicle for a 100-150 much better than paying 12-20 per gasket #2 use this video as reference of what to do because this was perfect great job on recording and diagnosing thank you so much
Thanks for making this, it helped to refresh my memory, I have to change another stator (used a cheap one last time, lesson learned). Instead of doing the cardboard outline the way you did, use the new gasket to trace your outline and hold your bolts.
Using the new gasket works, but I'd be worried about tearing it while working in my cramped garage. The cardboard is disposable, stands up with all the bolts in place, and brings out my artistic side! Did you reinforce the gasket with anything while doing the job?
Great video, but maybe I can save a step or two for others. I learned this from a Yamaha Mechanic. Leave the starter relay attached to the case. Just remove the one hex head bolt and its round assembly (this screws into the shaft for the gears). Make sure battery is disconnected. Remove wire from starter relay to starter (starter side) I used a M6 1.0 thread bolt (2) to attach the plastic relay cover to the case cover. This made it easy to attach
I changed the stator from the other side of bike by sliding the cover (with stator) under the engine, and sliding it back under when done. I used a box to hold chrome cover while working.
Good stuff! If you have any more tips, leave them in the comments.
Hey Alex, Thanks for putting a video of this up. I've been working on my uncle's 87' 700 virago, so far, for about seven hours. The hardest parts have been the starter motor philips screws were stripped and the assembly next to the flywheel spinny thingy with the spring kept coming apart as I'm trying to get the cover to go back on. I originally pictured this taking a few hours, but it has been more of a journey than that. I also found it hard to get my cover to "shunk" back on. The rods that go into the cover had to be oiled after I took so long that the RTV dried. Its been a day, ya know? Will update later this week once I finish up and put oil back in it.
If it's only been "a day", then you're like 10 days faster than I was.
the reason many people strip the 'philips' screws is because exactly that ; they aint philips screws. they are JIS screws ;
Japan industry standard. not philips :) they are almost the same... and thats what catches people, they have a philips screwdriver or bit, but not a JIS bit or screw driver. And it makes a difference having the right bit! trust me :)
great vidio, thanks,, just an FYI, those are not Philips screws. they are JIS ( Japanese Industrial Standard) look almost the same, just have a flat tip. thats why they strip so easy if you use the wrong driver. cheers
Omg I know that now! I bought a set online (not Amazon, just can't remember where) shortly after I made the part 2 video and immediately stopped stripping screws everywhere. They are 100% the tool for the job.
@@zeroreality we all learned the hard way.
Very informative. I think I just found my problem, thanks to you. My battery was not charging, but it may have been because I didn't have the rectifier grounded. I will check and hopefully it works. Thanks for the video.
thought i had the same problem but being a bike noob this video still helped me alot, i got a virago bobber from my dad a while back and started tinkering with it, i saw that the voltage regulator was zip tied to part of the farm, me not knowing i just figured that was the best place my dad thought would work, so i ended up bolting it to the battery box. me not know the casing was the ground for it, i ungrounded it doing so. the first part of the video let me know what i did wrong, ended up finding a place to bolt it to the frame and know my bike is charging again. thank you so much, it has been stressing me out for a couple weeks as i didnt think i had the mechanical skill to replace the stator
also if you read this where did you get the side cases?
@@TylerGibsonSIRdipsALOT69 found them from a guy it in Newfoundland. Two pieces of plastic for $150.
@@zeroreality well hopefully they're good quality they look nice, thats my next add on for my bike is some cases, bobber or not i like functionality as well
Thank you for posting this mate. I’m having similar problems on a 1991Virago XV750, battery went dead while riding. I replaced it with a new one but still doesn’t charge. I’ll start by checking the stator.
Camilo Gonzalez Also check your rectifier. Take it off the bike to test. If it's the rectifier, it's a lot easier and cheaper to fix. Good luck!
Coming from doing this on a twisted twin CX500 (have to drop the engine out of the frame) this is like a 10 minute easy job. haha
This video helped me a lot Thank you.
Alex, great humor in your video. I hope your bike's bleeding issue was just temporary.
Sean Juan Thanks man. Got it fixed with the help of a friend, and was riding the same day.
nice video got the same exact bike and problem waiting on my rectifier in the mail thanks freind
After taking everything apart except for one Allen bolt that I couldn't get off to put on my new stator I realized that my rectifier was blown and that is a 5-minute job... so anyone who's attempting to tackle the stator check your rectifier first you could save hours of grief..lol
Don't be so sure. The stator and rectifier work as a pair, so a lot of the time they die together. You may have had to do this job either way! (This is what I told me neighbour after he paid to have his RSTD stator done, got the bike back and found out the rectifier was he problem all along.)
@@zeroreality yeah hopefully I won't have to replace the stator but I have it if I need to so far it seems the power is better and my light headlight is shining bright but I'll keep a close eye on it. My old rectifier looks like it exploded like a fire cracker ..that's how bad it was.lol I got someone who can take that bolt off for me if I need to get to the stator. But your video was the best one to show me how to get all that stuff off to get to it. Only have forty thousand miles on my bike someone told me to Staters should still be good we'll see... I will keep you & your people posted.
@@jpstevens7430 Cheers bud, and good luck. I got a little voltage gauge that just read off the battery, and installed it on my bars. It let me read the voltage in real-time and helped me get over being gun-shy on the bike.
Great vid! Similar issue with my vstar1100. Hoping is the rectifier
I hope so too since that is much easier to swap out. Part 2 has a little bit on testing your rectifier (you need to take it off the bike to test it properly).
th-cam.com/video/w_Ui_FIkR_M/w-d-xo.htmlm49s
nice work
Strate to the point video brill council kev uk
Dude, you're a hero.
Hey what bags do you have on your Virago I've been wanting some saddlebags for mine
They were an aftermarket set I won at a silent auction on a charity ride. They were cheap plastic, bounced a lot, and flew open a couple of times (I lost two bottles of beer once 😭).
Try to find bags that open on the top, not the sides.
@@zeroreality ok yea once I lost my sweet alcohol I would definitely get a new set
Does anyone have pictures of the right side of the handlebars push button starting switch. I took it apart and can't remember how it goes back together
I do not, but I'll pin this comment so everyone else sees it. Might have a chance to take mine apart next weekend.
fab workshop
I have an odd charging problem/issue. Back in 09, I replaced the R/R that was shorted. The odd part is, it only charge at 1500 rpm, ~13.5v At idle, 1k rpm and Pass 2000 rpm, it goes back to ~12.5v ish......I think it might be the stator.
What's your battery's voltage when the bike is off? Does the voltage sag when you hold the throttle past 2000rpm, or does it dip, then slowly rise? Might just be a dead battery.
Been trying to figure out what is blowing my 30A main fuse. Found today (thru elimination) that it's the regulator line. When I remove the regulator from the passenger peg (so it's not grounded), I don't get continuity thru the regulator feed (red wire) any more.
For some reason, a previous owner cut the white wires from the stator and regulator and just wired them directly, so I can't "test" the stator per se. Can I assume that the short from the regulator red wire to the regulator frame that the short is in the regulator, not the stator?
Short answer: no, I don't think so.
I want to be clear here and make sure I understand the wiring. The previous owner removed the little plastic connectors from the stator and rectifier and soldered the wires together directly? If that's the case, then I suggest you first cut those wires (one at a time) and fit some kind of connector (of a different colour) on each wire. I'd use bullet connectors and a different colour of shrink wrap on each one, doing one at a time so you don't mess up the order. That way you can isolate the stator from the rectifier and test them individually for the short.
Great vid. I'm a rookie and it helped me A lot!
That's why I made it.
Hi, the 4th stator wire is natural wire! thanks
Neutral! Wow, yeah, it's AC not DC, so that makes perfect sense. Thank you!
I dont know if youre still on youtube checking comments lol but is this the same procedure for the 95 xv750? it all looks the same
I never did this on my 750, but I imagine it's almost entirely the same. Everything was in the same place on those bikes. The only difference aside from the motor was the 1100 had a separate reserve tank and a fuel pump.
i have the same bike.my problem is my rear parking/signal light stop working.no power at all. brake light works. front parking light works but wont flash when L or R signal is pressed. headlight works. checked the fuses at the handlebar and there good. What can it be?
First, check any wiring you did most recently. I had done a bit when my flashers and break like stopped working on a ride; turns out one of the wires had shifted under the seat and the sheathing wore off and created a short. Ended up boiling the "41R-71" (located under the seat) box which controls flashers, break, and starter relays. It's about 2in x 2in x 1in and is the largest black box under the seat which is easily visible. That's my best guess, so you should start there.
Obviously check to make sure the plug didn't come out first and that there are no exposed wires.
Alex, great video's love the attitude, it's always better to laugh and keep working. I've got a 96 xv 750 recently replaced stator cover gasket (uselessly as i was replacing the shift lever seal) ever since my starter will not disengage. I didn't see any funky breaks around the starter gears when i had the cover off. I've heard it could be a stuck switch/relay, however i am thinking the drive lever collar screw has worn the starter lever/actuator/fork pins. No reference though for tolerable wear. Any ideas?
Check to make sure the starter gear slides on and off easily, and that the "thingy" that dis/engages rotates nicely too. The starter gear assembly should only be in-mesh with the main spin-a-ma-thinger while you have the button pressed. Take apart (again) the cover for the starter "activator" and just check that you can manually move the thing back and forth in place.
Good luck man. Let me know how it goes.
Success!! Double checked the starter actuator, which had some play, decided to go further and take off the stator cover and check for wear or a broken spring. Got lucky no broken parts, threw it all back on, and made sure the actuator had no slop. (or that i put the actuator lever, on the right way) So far so good but the problems emerged progressively the more time i put in the saddle. Thank you Alex
Nice bud! Make sure you torque/tighten the two bolts that hold the actuator in place; they may have stripped the thread. Do they feel "spongey" when going in? That's the tell-tale sign the threads have been fucked.
No noticable sponge on the drive lever pivot screw or on the solenoid mounting nuts. According to the clymer book the pivot screw take 88 in.-lbs; the solenoid mounting nuts 71 inch lbs. But I don't have an inch pound torque wrench. Nevertheless they stopped with moderate pressure with 1/4 drive ratchet. The drive lever collar screw however was certainly spongy, giving a false sense of proper torque. ( Especially when the lever was inverted) I will look into a new Drive lever collar screw to be sure!
Hi, can u explain how u got this solenoid thing of (u start talking about it at @ 07:48 , i need to remove that allen bolt, but i can't get it loose) Thanks in advance
The starter solenoid was actually fairly easy by comparison to the rest of this tear-down. The solenoid actuates a lever arm that engages the starter motor gear. That lever arm pivots on the allen bolt you are talking about. I had to get at it with an extender from below as it is pointing up towards the handlebars. If the allen is stuck it may have been over-tightened, and the only thing I can recommend is getting an extender on there and use a hammer on the handle of your extender to jerk it loose. If you just try to apply more and more force you may end up rounding the inside of the allen nut. Good luck, and if you need more help just let me know.
@@zeroreality it seems that it is already a bit rounded inside :/ Makes me wonder what in the world did the previous owner do... Can i assume it is a bolt with metric thread? I hope i dont have to drill it out, but i'm affraid i'll have no other choice if the problem persists
@@1982seba It is a metric bike, so everything should be metric... unless the previous owner did something. Have you tried SAE allens on it?
@@zeroreality it's just a normal set of allen keys i have here
@@1982seba Most sets come with metric and SAE (standard) sizes. If the previous owner replaced that bolt they may have done so with "whatever fits the threads" instead of the correct bolt. However, it might just mean fiddling with it and swearing loudly at it to get it out. That's the method I fall back on!
will this work with a 97' as well?
It should. The '97 and '95 virago only differed in colours from the factory.
Hey... that blue wire from the stator.. where did that plug in to? Struggling with reassembling my own bike
dkfde29 in the part 2 video, I figured out that it's the gearbox's neutral light switch. There's a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the engine, mine was brass. The stator wire should have a rubber protector that goes over a U shaped wire end. The U shape slides onto the screw on the bottom of the engine (screw doesn't need to come out, only loosen).
Does any one know what the stator watts out put is
I checked the Clymer manual and the Haynes manual; neither mention a specific output. They both say the main fuse is 20amps, so it can't be more than 20a x 12v ~ 240 watts. With a healthy battery, it should read about 14.8v at 3000rpm, but anything over 14v is a good sign.
I've pinned this comment just in case someone else knows, they'll see this first.
Have the same bike just a couple years older but exact same set up. Just changed the stator and now that its back together same way as before, my clutch wont work and there is no tension at all no matter how much u try and adjust both sides of clutch cable. Have took it apart twice to see if anything im missing and nothing looks out of place or broke does anyone know what i could do or could have done wrong
If it is connected at both ends, try pulling the lever while the connection in visible on the engine side. If it doesn't pull on that end, then the cable must be broken or something.
It pulls on that end the cable isnt broke it seems like the clutch isnt wanting to release or something. It pulls the lever on the motor that it is supposed to but still does nothing
If it would let me post my video i would. It was working perfect before we chaged the stator and now that its changed and back together the clutch just doesnt want to engage no matter what u do or how much u adjust but it does move it on the motor it just doesn't do anything at all. Had it on the back stand so the back tire was free to spin and no matter what u do it doesn't engage and stop the tire from spinning or help it get it gear feels like u are shifting without touching the clutch when u put it in gear
@@Joker52601 How fast does the tire spin? Even in neutral is should spin very slowly just from residual friction on the clutch-plates. The clutch-plates are on the other side of the motor, so they couldn't have been touched during a stator replacement.
Ya they was not touched only thing that was touched at all was the clutch release bearing that the cable connect to it had fell out when we took the cover off but put them back the way they was it seemed. It spins a lil in natural like u said and when u have it in gear it spins a lil faster and u can get it to spin a lil faster by hitting the gas but not by much or as fast as it should spin when u hit the gas
Hahaha got a mynew starter relay and put it on my 750 it started but what a pain in the kneck to replace did not fit right i beat the red kneck piss out of and got it hee haww happy bike from here in daytona march 8i live righ here near daytona boardwalk
Legendas ? Plz
Doesn't TH-cam auto-translate if you hit the CC button?
Help cant find my starter relay 96 750
The starter relay and flasher relays are in a sealed black box under the seat; there should be a "rubber band" holding it to the frame right in the middle. It has a part number 41R-71 printed in white on one side.
If you're having trouble starting out flashers not working, try cleaning the contacts on it first.
@@zeroreality ya i found this i ben working under the seat but that part is not the starter solanoid relay its the other one flasher for lights i got the part coming in the mail i let you g know good help but i still cant find it followed posotive wire only bring to the fuse casing
rich.johnj OH, you want the solenoid! That's easier. Check the video at about 6:30 and you can see where it is. There are two screws on the back side that are a major pain to take out (I had to use two extenders to reach from the other side of the bike) and you'll need a T30 bit too take off this "bar" thing it hooks on.
@@zeroreality ya i was so glad to see this video on here i dont need to drop the oil to pull the starter solanoid do i ////????/ idont know if its the problem yet i put new rectifier and the stator is good so hoping its not the starter gear mechanism thats bad you pulled that out also [alot of videos about the stareger gear mechanism] not the starter relay thanks a million freind hav a shot of moonshine o me
@@liljibi Shouldn't need to drop the oil as you don't actually need to get into the engine. The "bar" thing is outside the gasket's seal. Good luck!