Thanks! On this particular route it wasn't much of an issue. However, I have since adopted the slip hitch technique and it works very well. This certain discipline of climbing is my favorite as it is very challenging and highly rewarding!
Just to clarify for all who watch... The "detached block" that I have double anchor webbing around was roughly the size of a small tractor... 5 feet wide and roughly the same in depth.. I'm 170. This particular anchor point is a 10 out 10 all day long! I apologize if the video perception makes it seem much smaller... Yes, please make sure your anchors are always "bomb proof". As for the use of a gri gri... There are many devices out there that perform similar functions... Make your own educated decisions that allow you to be comfortable as this is not by any means a "how to/ instructional video". Simply just sharing what I love to do.. No matter what, HAVE FUN AND CLIMB FREE...
you people on the comments should relax. we all have something to say about what we haven't done. Where is your soul? Are you that far away from the wonderment, beauty? I felt every hold, every burn, well not too much. I thought it was great footage! Get back in the spirit!
lol, is it a habit among those of us that lead solo to show the setup, just in case something happens someone can maybe sort out wtf went wrong. nice video dude.
your feeding slack below the grigri to achieve the next clip, as opposed to feeding slack into the systen between grigri and rope bag. this method along with a chest harness to tether grigri into a vertical positon will auto feed grigri while slack remains in system between rope bag and grigri. your current method means if you fall onto the last peice all that slack you have added increases your fall
What Chris said above - more hassle feeding the way you did it; more opportunity to get pumped out; and long more dangerous falls on ledgy terrain. Invert the Grigri and use a chest harness or get a Revo. (Maybe you have by now since this was 2 years ago.)
I’m not sure that the use of the microsender is any kind of back up. I use a ropeman with a grigri and the ropeman only manages the slack. I still would use aback up knot and continue to reset it about every 25ft or so
I don’t live far from Starr Mountain, just up 411 a little further. If you ever want a climbing partner, let me know. I’ve just been daisy soloing sport routes and trad soloing with a microtraxion and grigri because it’s hard to find a partner that isn’t in high school. Nice vid, by the way!
В GriGri сверлится дырка. в неё продевается тонкий репшнур и крепится к грудной лямке рюкзака или к петле на груди. Тем самым GriGri занимает вертикальное положение и НЕ надо каждый раз рукой протаскивать через него веревку. Веревка будет сама вытягиваться из рюкзака. И ещё. При движение соло, когда веревка внизу жестка закреплена и нет необходимости её тянуть снизу, оттяжки НЕ нужны. Это лишнее по весу железо. Достаточно просто карабин вщелкнуть в камолот.
Hey man thanks for this wonderful footage. Been trying to get into rope soloing but want more material to study. I totally feel ur pain when soloing w a Grigri 😜🤙
If you are still doing rope solo Trad, check out the wild country Revo. Makes leading so much easier. I made some videos testing some falls using the grigri vs the Revo. Both devices were successful but the Revo is much easier for feeding slack. Thought you might be interested. Hope to see you out there!
At 3:26 to the right of your hand is a picture perfect placement for a tri-cam I only rack 1-2 usually for that purpose they are designed for horizontal cracks.
Guys i'm not even a newbie. I'm just getting interested. What is the average distance between anchor points? Obviously anchor points won't always be available, but what is a safe distance to fall if lets say you loose your grip or an anchor slips out?
You don’t seem to have a back up knot, like a pursik for example, to provide the tension needed for the Gri Gri to engage. At that height, are you that confident that a device not intended for this purpose will catch your fall? You could have easily become a casualty.
On this climb I was feeding slack manually when stopping. Now, I simply use a sling to tether the gri gri into a vertical position and it feeds manually. I also will be using steel locker when solo trad climbing in case of cross load and I slip hitch the rope to each piece of gear to prevent slack in the rope below me.. Just a few things I have personally adopted. Climb hard and have fun!!!
"Another problem is the device (GriGri) can only be attached by one karabiner and unlike a knot, has a good chance of loading the karabiner badly (a brit soloist took a monster lob off el Cap a few years ago when his DMM Belay Master attached to his grigri snapped - being saved by his back up knot)" . from Andy Kirkpatrick Rope Soloing--and you have no backup knot--plus you slung a detached block--what might happen if a 2,250 l force hit it ( 10 Kn ) ?????
After the first time I had a Grigri position badly on a carabiner I've been worried about that as well. It can easily break carabines when it twists/crossloads the carabiner. The same seem to apply most fall arrest devices and carabines. Someone used a piece of rope or heavy cord to tie it instead of a carabiner, no way ropes get cross-loaded. I've never had a grigri not catch by itself but it is a known thing to happen. Backup knots or another blocking method of rope or some other kind of backup device is really needed IMO. Really safe solutions for solo lead climbing are difficult to find. Sometimes people make also basic mistakes like using a fall arrest device that does not work when falling upside down. So much simpler with top roping that has no large fall factors.
@@hoggif load the grigri backward and backpack the rope, andy is right, but you may have heard that climbing is dangerous. if you're unsure or dont know what you're doing, dont do it. you also shouldn't be taking on some insane route with this sort of setup. you have to consider that lead roped soloing is similar to aid in that difficulty in placements and danger is a factor in deciding to send or back off.
@@dangerdave138 I use several "unsafe" techniques like grigri when there is nothing better and I can accept the risk. Yes, I'm still trying to find techniques to minimize the risk. I have cross-loaded a grigri. After seing that happen I felt a lot less safe with it. I've seen grigri tied to belay loop with a pice of cord/rope. No way to cross load that! (and yet not sure what other dangers that may impose)
Once at the top of any climb you divide the rope in half n throw center over a rock that wont cut rope or slip over and off of while abseiling. Then at bottom pull one side of rope to collect it, other side is pull up over ancer rope than falls to the ground (hopefulling not getting caught on anything, and why best to abseil on an overhain or clear smooth face. Can also half rope placed inside 2or 3 instaled metal rings that are often instaled at the top of popular climbs. Then again just pull and collect rope at bottom of abseil
really should use a chest harness with the Soloist or maybe a Microtraxion - and most definitely a series of back up knots as you go - A grigri is not made for this type of climbing and has killed many people in the past....soloist is the best device I have found for working solo on my aid climbing systems up at my local crag....not many aid climbers in my parts.....anyway.......yea, definitely tie some back up knots..............to be honest when I am solo climbing I often will rig a static line from the top directly along my route.....this is overkill safety but guarantee not die and I would do it until you get your system dialed down perfectly...at the bottom of the static line.hang a heavy pack to the line - put a boulder in if you have to....then simply use a loosely tied prusik knot which you can slide up as you move up -------- this is the system I use for practicing mixed ice and steep ice routes in my area in the winter - it is great for running laps on steep ice and doing some hooking on blank section while remaining completely safe.....you may want to use a Traxion in the winter as if the rope gets a little icy it will jam up your prusik knot .........when working on solo systems back up back up back up - solo climbing is a dangerous game so you really want to have your system dialed when you are out there solo and trying to lead an 11d on wall nuts and a couple of small cams........ remember, with no buddy, if you fall and go unconscious or simply break a leg and then can't get a phone signal you're fucked......I hung from the side of an ice climb in the Canadain Rockies for 12 hrs in -50c - 500 ft off the deck - when i dropped my rope with my frostbitten hands - Just by luck my roommate new something must have gone wrong and called the wardens who pulled me off with a chopper at midnight..........near dead........
Nice climb. I like the double cam setup first up. I rather feel like I'd have the auto-block device held upright with a chest harness or similar tho. Do you find the rope start to drag out as you get further up? I have tried tying the rope off with a slip hitch to keep it taut.
learned not what to do in some regards. Never sling detached blocks ever. Anchors must be bombpoof. A 10 kn fall or less could spin that block and he is dead. Also carabiners (even the dmm belay master) have been loaded wrong in a fall by the grigri and snapped. He has no back up knot. Yes he is a good climber and places gear well but huge impact forces are being downplayed by him, in my opinion, with no backup.
Would trad climbing be the best option for solo climbing without having to set up a top anchor. Or without having to get up whatever you're climbing and then set an anchor and drop your rope and then go all the way back down to climb it?
Trad and sport are basically the same in LRS, sport is of course usually safer. Here’s the method I use on multi pitch. If the route is hard I setup a ground anchor and stitch pieces up to the top of the pitch in the normal way. If the top anchor is a tree, I do a frictionless hitch so it can form my ground anchor as I’m headed up the next pitch. I only need to set it up once. (Bolted anchors are similar I just sling it instead). Drop the backpack. Grigri down and clean the pieces and remove the ground anchor. Then jug back up. If the route isn’t very dangerous but it’s super slabby or run out like say Snake Dike, I’ll take more risk. I’ll thread the rope through the rap anchors so I can tie myself into the rope on one end, and belay myself through my grigri on the other end. (Imagine an upside down top rope.) Then it’s basically an aid solo, where I’m putting in a bunch of pieces but taking them out as soon as the get out of my reach as I pass. On the parts of the route I’m not going to fall on I just don’t place any pieces that way my gear comes with me as I advance up the mountain. When I reach the next anchor point I clip in my PAS untie myself and just pull the rope up to me as I restack the rope for the next pitch. Dangerous, but I’ve had a lot of fun with it.
mcguire reid Build a solid top anchor if your reclimbing. Clip rope in. Rappel down using an auto block as a back up for your rappel device. Stop at each piece, remove! If not reclimbing, place rope around a solid natural anchor then it’s the same process.. Hope this advice helps out 👍
Ok...so I watched it again... For a smooth granite Northern Cali climber like me, that looked great. Nice features! We are grinding slab and crack here! That said, fuck that cam at 19:30 and that dogshit one after it. I am glad you did not fall. Those two would not hold a bag full of farts they were so over cammed. Balls out for practicing the Dark Art of rope solo!!
a prusik will melt, the grigri is fine, on bigger potentially more dangerous routes you can use back up knots and clip it into your belay loop under the progress capture device.
Absolutely right !!! The method of solo lead climbing shown in this video could be named as "way to heaven" or "do the same if want to die". Shown technique is Dangerous. No back-up! Gri-gri is unstable, I mean that Gri-gri moves freely and could take an appropriate position while climbing or falling, that is if he falls it is possible that Gri-gri won't grab the rope. Shown method of solo climbing is definitely very risky !!!
@@jasonelford4474 Tying knots could be a way to increase the level of safety. But it's very inconvenient method of top rope climbing - after each 1.5-2 meters of a route you should tie a knot. Maybe for easy routes it could be used, but for hard routes you must be focused on climbing, not tying knots. And what if at the moment of tying knot you fall off and, for example, your arm stuck in rope coils while tying a knot and a gri-gri didn't arrest your fall? You can get serious injuries. Top Rope Solo is a method of climbing that must use the redundancy. You should have two independent lines that attached to two different anchorpoints (ideally), you also should use two different types of devices for fall arresting. Such method is recommeded by Petzl. And i believe that guys from Petzl know what to do: www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope
first off do not rope solo with a grigri its not made for it! it is an assisted braking device your supposed to assume it wont catch by itself! it is not considered autolocking! it needs the friction from a hand covering the feed side to properly lock up, Second Do Not Use Aluminum biner for rope solo!!!! it can cross load and snap in a fall ! use steel only !!! be sure to clove hitch slack out of system on first piece to ensure anchor biners cant cross load may also want to use steel mathew hunter has good instructional his method is pretty sound for using a grigri improperly
a Gri-gri is the primary device used for soloing bigwalls in Yosemite. A steel locking belay biner is a definitely a must. Another way to prevent the anchor biners from cross loading is to leave an extra tail on the figure eight on a bight and clove hitch the tail to a downward placed piece.
What about biners that are designed to eliminate the possibility of cross loading (obviously he wasn't using one)? I use the Grivel Clepsydra for example on my Mad Rock Lifeguard and it is 100% impossible to cross load because of the belay loop capture and the outer spine and the closed gate being too fat.
You have a lot of work to figure out on your system. Very clumsy, messy, too many things to go wrong, ropes dangling about, device unstable. All this may be fine when on nothing more than a scramble that you were on, but dhould you actually need to focus on cl8mbing moves there is just yoo much going on to go wrong. Nothing in this video leads me to believe you know what you're doing, or have confidence in yourself. Keep on the scrambles until you figure it out.
Thanks! On this particular route it wasn't much of an issue. However, I have since adopted the slip hitch technique and it works very well. This certain discipline of climbing is my favorite as it is very challenging and highly rewarding!
Just to clarify for all who watch... The "detached block" that I have double anchor webbing around was roughly the size of a small tractor... 5 feet wide and roughly the same in depth.. I'm 170. This particular anchor point is a 10 out 10 all day long! I apologize if the video perception makes it seem much smaller... Yes, please make sure your anchors are always "bomb proof". As for the use of a gri gri... There are many devices out there that perform similar functions... Make your own educated decisions that allow you to be comfortable as this is not by any means a "how to/ instructional video". Simply just sharing what I love to do.. No matter what, HAVE FUN AND CLIMB FREE...
That block looks more like the size of a large suitcase.
How do you prevent your belay biner from cross loading?
By pulling all slack between belay and first pro. Use a slip hitch on first piece of pro to keep tight
I have since this video started using the slip hitch as mentioned above 😃
you people on the comments should relax.
we all have something to say about what we haven't done. Where is your soul? Are you that far away from the wonderment, beauty?
I felt every hold, every burn, well not too much. I thought it was great footage!
Get back in the spirit!
Lead rope solo trad is just rad!!!!
Thank you David!!! Just sharing one discipline of our awesome sport!!!! 😎
lol, is it a habit among those of us that lead solo to show the setup, just in case something happens someone can maybe sort out wtf went wrong. nice video dude.
Any comment or recommendation after climbing, how to recover all the gear. Haven't find any video how to after climbing.
your feeding slack below the grigri to achieve the next clip, as opposed to feeding slack into the systen between grigri and rope bag. this method along with a chest harness to tether grigri into a vertical positon will auto feed grigri while slack remains in system between rope bag and grigri. your current method means if you fall onto the last peice all that slack you have added increases your fall
Longer the fall, softer the catch
I do agree though, having a chest line holding the grigri up makes for a much cleaner experience
What Chris said above - more hassle feeding the way you did it; more opportunity to get pumped out; and long more dangerous falls on ledgy terrain. Invert the Grigri and use a chest harness or get a Revo. (Maybe you have by now since this was 2 years ago.)
What do you use as a back up to your grigr? Knots? Would you consider a microcender?
I’m not sure that the use of the microsender is any kind of back up. I use a ropeman with a grigri and the ropeman only manages the slack. I still would use aback up knot and continue to reset it about every 25ft or so
I don’t live far from Starr Mountain, just up 411 a little further. If you ever want a climbing partner, let me know. I’ve just been daisy soloing sport routes and trad soloing with a microtraxion and grigri because it’s hard to find a partner that isn’t in high school. Nice vid, by the way!
В GriGri сверлится дырка. в неё продевается тонкий репшнур и крепится к грудной лямке рюкзака или к петле на груди. Тем самым GriGri занимает вертикальное положение и НЕ надо каждый раз рукой протаскивать через него веревку. Веревка будет сама вытягиваться из рюкзака. И ещё. При движение соло, когда веревка внизу жестка закреплена и нет необходимости её тянуть снизу, оттяжки НЕ нужны. Это лишнее по весу железо. Достаточно просто карабин вщелкнуть в камолот.
That looks like a great climb. Were there any anchors at the top?
...nevermind, saw the tree comment.
Good work!
I rappelled from a tree, cleaned the gear, then pulled the rope. The same scenario if you have fixed anchors. Happy climbing!!
Hey man thanks for this wonderful footage. Been trying to get into rope soloing but want more material to study. I totally feel ur pain when soloing w a Grigri 😜🤙
Indeed... looking in to a better device 👍
@@origin32
I use the Edelrid Megawatt for 6 months now. Much smoother and a lot safer than my old grigri.
Good thing you never loaded any of those cams! You never would have gotten them out!
Would have saved his life tho, if your that worried about your gear,stay in bed,with it beside you,lol
I am definitely gonna do this route now, solo or not, it just looks sweet!!!
VERY NICE !!! do you think a rotor hook help's grigi ?
If you are still doing rope solo Trad, check out the wild country Revo. Makes leading so much easier. I made some videos testing some falls using the grigri vs the Revo. Both devices were successful but the Revo is much easier for feeding slack. Thought you might be interested. Hope to see you out there!
gunkclimber
Thanks bro! I will check it out!
Climb hard, live happy
That seems semething I've been looking for, thanks for the tip!
At 3:26 to the right of your hand is a picture perfect placement for a tri-cam I only rack 1-2 usually for that purpose they are designed for horizontal cracks.
And at 4:35 to I love them because they are cheaper compared to a cam so if I have to bail mid climb I don’t loose to much sleep over them
explodingplanets
Good eye! I have since purchased several. They are indeed handy for horizontals
Sweet sweet…..
Guys i'm not even a newbie. I'm just getting interested. What is the average distance between anchor points? Obviously anchor points won't always be available, but what is a safe distance to fall if lets say you loose your grip or an anchor slips out?
You don’t seem to have a back up knot, like a pursik for example, to provide the tension needed for the Gri Gri to engage. At that height, are you that confident that a device not intended for this purpose will catch your fall? You could have easily become a casualty.
do you pull rope through the grigri as you move up or does that only happen everytime you stop and pull slack through?
On this climb I was feeding slack manually when stopping. Now, I simply use a sling to tether the gri gri into a vertical position and it feeds manually. I also will be using steel locker when solo trad climbing in case of cross load and I slip hitch the rope to each piece of gear to prevent slack in the rope below me.. Just a few things I have personally adopted. Climb hard and have fun!!!
WTF is a grigri? Nice video and bloody nice scenery. How high was that climb?
"Another problem is the device (GriGri) can only be attached by one karabiner and unlike a knot, has a good chance of loading the karabiner badly (a brit soloist took a monster lob off el Cap a few years ago when his DMM Belay Master attached to his grigri snapped - being saved by his back up knot)" . from Andy Kirkpatrick Rope Soloing--and you have no backup knot--plus you slung a detached block--what might happen if a 2,250 l force hit it ( 10 Kn ) ?????
After the first time I had a Grigri position badly on a carabiner I've been worried about that as well. It can easily break carabines when it twists/crossloads the carabiner. The same seem to apply most fall arrest devices and carabines. Someone used a piece of rope or heavy cord to tie it instead of a carabiner, no way ropes get cross-loaded.
I've never had a grigri not catch by itself but it is a known thing to happen. Backup knots or another blocking method of rope or some other kind of backup device is really needed IMO.
Really safe solutions for solo lead climbing are difficult to find. Sometimes people make also basic mistakes like using a fall arrest device that does not work when falling upside down. So much simpler with top roping that has no large fall factors.
@@hoggif load the grigri backward and backpack the rope, andy is right, but you may have heard that climbing is dangerous. if you're unsure or dont know what you're doing, dont do it. you also shouldn't be taking on some insane route with this sort of setup. you have to consider that lead roped soloing is similar to aid in that difficulty in placements and danger is a factor in deciding to send or back off.
@@dangerdave138 I use several "unsafe" techniques like grigri when there is nothing better and I can accept the risk. Yes, I'm still trying to find techniques to minimize the risk.
I have cross-loaded a grigri. After seing that happen I felt a lot less safe with it. I've seen grigri tied to belay loop with a pice of cord/rope. No way to cross load that! (and yet not sure what other dangers that may impose)
DMM or Petzyl steel connectors instead of biners, 45KN & 16KN loading for Petzyl Vulcan, 40KN & 18KN for DMM i-Beam Steel
hey, new climber, how do you rappel youself down without leaving any gear at the top?
Once at the top of any climb you divide the rope in half n throw center over a rock that wont cut rope or slip over and off of while abseiling. Then at bottom pull one side of rope to collect it, other side is pull up over ancer rope than falls to the ground (hopefulling not getting caught on anything, and why best to abseil on an overhain or clear smooth face.
Can also half rope placed inside 2or 3 instaled metal rings that are often instaled at the top of popular climbs. Then again just pull and collect rope at bottom of abseil
Eric Molina find a climbing friend at the gym or crag who can teach you. Climbing is very dangerous when done improperly.
Yes, the smooth surface rock along with any thick living tree. I personally will not rap off a tree less than 6 inches thick
Eric Molina - it seems no one gets your jest. I did.
Yep! Agreeing with Action Dan. Make sure the rock is not sharp when you sling it.. 👍
hello, may i know how can you get back the clips or tools after finished climbing and back to the ground, thanks
really should use a chest harness with the Soloist or maybe a Microtraxion - and most definitely a series of back up knots as you go - A grigri is not made for this type of climbing and has killed many people in the past....soloist is the best device I have found for working solo on my aid climbing systems up at my local crag....not many aid climbers in my parts.....anyway.......yea, definitely tie some back up knots..............to be honest when I am solo climbing I often will rig a static line from the top directly along my route.....this is overkill safety but guarantee not die and I would do it until you get your system dialed down perfectly...at the bottom of the static line.hang a heavy pack to the line - put a boulder in if you have to....then simply use a loosely tied prusik knot which you can slide up as you move up -------- this is the system I use for practicing mixed ice and steep ice routes in my area in the winter - it is great for running laps on steep ice and doing some hooking on blank section while remaining completely safe.....you may want to use a Traxion in the winter as if the rope gets a little icy it will jam up your prusik knot .........when working on solo systems back up back up back up - solo climbing is a dangerous game so you really want to have your system dialed when you are out there solo and trying to lead an 11d on wall nuts and a couple of small cams........ remember, with no buddy, if you fall and go unconscious or simply break a leg and then can't get a phone signal you're fucked......I hung from the side of an ice climb in the Canadain Rockies for 12 hrs in -50c - 500 ft off the deck - when i dropped my rope with my frostbitten hands - Just by luck my roommate new something must have gone wrong and called the wardens who pulled me off with a chopper at midnight..........near dead........
Nice climb. I like the double cam setup first up. I rather feel like I'd have the auto-block device held upright with a chest harness or similar tho. Do you find the rope start to drag out as you get further up? I have tried tying the rope off with a slip hitch to keep it taut.
Great video Jaimie. Trad / aid solo interests me. Learned a lot from your video. Jason from Sydney Australia
learned not what to do in some regards. Never sling detached blocks ever. Anchors must be bombpoof. A 10 kn fall or less could spin that block and he is dead. Also carabiners (even the dmm belay master) have been loaded wrong in a fall by the grigri and snapped. He has no back up knot. Yes he is a good climber and places gear well but huge impact forces are being downplayed by him, in my opinion, with no backup.
Awesome! Watch my newest trad rope solo vid.. Doing some things differently now
Would trad climbing be the best option for solo climbing without having to set up a top anchor. Or without having to get up whatever you're climbing and then set an anchor and drop your rope and then go all the way back down to climb it?
Trad and sport are basically the same in LRS, sport is of course usually safer.
Here’s the method I use on multi pitch. If the route is hard I setup a ground anchor and stitch pieces up to the top of the pitch in the normal way. If the top anchor is a tree, I do a frictionless hitch so it can form my ground anchor as I’m headed up the next pitch. I only need to set it up once. (Bolted anchors are similar I just sling it instead). Drop the backpack. Grigri down and clean the pieces and remove the ground anchor. Then jug back up.
If the route isn’t very dangerous but it’s super slabby or run out like say Snake Dike, I’ll take more risk. I’ll thread the rope through the rap anchors so I can tie myself into the rope on one end, and belay myself through my grigri on the other end. (Imagine an upside down top rope.) Then it’s basically an aid solo, where I’m putting in a bunch of pieces but taking them out as soon as the get out of my reach as I pass. On the parts of the route I’m not going to fall on I just don’t place any pieces that way my gear comes with me as I advance up the mountain. When I reach the next anchor point I clip in my PAS untie myself and just pull the rope up to me as I restack the rope for the next pitch. Dangerous, but I’ve had a lot of fun with it.
Also, is that the route called, “Pleasing to the Touch”?
Yes, indeed it is! Best 5.6 in the Southeast in my opinion 😀
Thanks for the partner offer. Maybe I’ll see you out there..... climb free
Thank you! It's a very rewarding discipline of climbing... Glad the video was informative
How do you collect your gear as you rappel back down ?
mcguire reid
Build a solid top anchor if your reclimbing. Clip rope in. Rappel down using an auto block as a back up for your rappel device. Stop at each piece, remove!
If not reclimbing, place rope around a solid natural anchor then it’s the same process..
Hope this advice helps out 👍
Some climbers use the gri gri in chest, do you think it is more easy to give rope ?
Ok...so I watched it again...
For a smooth granite Northern Cali climber like me, that looked great. Nice features! We are grinding slab and crack here!
That said, fuck that cam at 19:30 and that dogshit one after it.
I am glad you did not fall. Those two would not hold a bag full of farts they were so over cammed.
Balls out for practicing the Dark Art of rope solo!!
Perfectly stated my friend!!!
dont you need additional backup for grigiri like prusik?
a prusik will melt, the grigri is fine, on bigger potentially more dangerous routes you can use back up knots and clip it into your belay loop under the progress capture device.
Almost identical to Devil's Lake state park.
Thanks, BEAUTIFUL!
David Cuevas not quite. There’s this thing called “friction...”
Expert.
Boss!
What would be this climb, maybe 5.6?
Adrian Calgary
Exactly Adrian. It goes at 5.6/ 5.7.
Thanks tons for subscribing 😃
Is it really safe to use. Only grigri in solo Trad climbing? I heard grigri is not good choice
Absolutely right !!!
The method of solo lead climbing shown in this video could be named as "way to heaven" or "do the same if want to die".
Shown technique is Dangerous. No back-up! Gri-gri is unstable, I mean that Gri-gri moves freely and could take an appropriate position while climbing or falling, that is if he falls it is possible that Gri-gri won't grab the rope.
Shown method of solo climbing is definitely very risky !!!
@@hiking_wilds What id he tied knots below the grigri?
@@jasonelford4474
Tying knots could be a way to increase the level of safety. But it's very inconvenient method of top rope climbing - after each 1.5-2 meters of a route you should tie a knot. Maybe for easy routes it could be used, but for hard routes you must be focused on climbing, not tying knots. And what if at the moment of tying knot you fall off and, for example, your arm stuck in rope coils while tying a knot and a gri-gri didn't arrest your fall? You can get serious injuries.
Top Rope Solo is a method of climbing that must use the redundancy. You should have two independent lines that attached to two different anchorpoints (ideally), you also should use two different types of devices for fall arresting. Such method is recommeded by Petzl. And i believe that guys from Petzl know what to do: www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope
Wild
hey you
avesome
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Howdy there partner
Don’t know much about climbing. However what I have learned told me your anchor is very scary...
Love the train in the background really cool vibes out here
first off do not rope solo with a grigri its not made for it! it is an assisted braking device your supposed to assume it wont catch by itself! it is not considered autolocking! it needs the friction from a hand covering the feed side to properly lock up, Second Do Not Use Aluminum biner for rope solo!!!! it can cross load and snap in a fall ! use steel only !!! be sure to clove hitch slack out of system on first piece to ensure anchor biners cant cross load may also want to use steel mathew hunter has good instructional his method is pretty sound for using a grigri improperly
a Gri-gri is the primary device used for soloing bigwalls in Yosemite. A steel locking belay biner is a definitely a must. Another way to prevent the anchor biners from cross loading is to leave an extra tail on the figure eight on a bight and clove hitch the tail to a downward placed piece.
What about biners that are designed to eliminate the possibility of cross loading (obviously he wasn't using one)? I use the Grivel Clepsydra for example on my Mad Rock Lifeguard and it is 100% impossible to cross load because of the belay loop capture and the outer spine and the closed gate being too fat.
You have a lot of work to figure out on your system. Very clumsy, messy, too many things to go wrong, ropes dangling about, device unstable. All this may be fine when on nothing more than a scramble that you were on, but dhould you actually need to focus on cl8mbing moves there is just yoo much going on to go wrong.
Nothing in this video leads me to believe you know what you're doing, or have confidence in yourself.
Keep on the scrambles until you figure it out.
Awesome! Thanks for your input. Post all of us a link to your trad rope solo video, So we all can learn! Have fun and climb hard.... 😎
I think that’s a bit more than a
scramble bud.
Good job man, don’t let these guys get to you.🤙🏽