How To Lead Rope Solo Rock Climb
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2020
- This video is for rock climbers who want to climb on their own. It's going to be very boring for anyone who does not already climb a lot. Rock climbing is inherently dangerous and climbing on your own is far more dangerous than normal rock climbing so beware! Do not attempt this unless you know what you're doing!
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I really enjoyed this video. I've been thinking of how I could climb some routes on my own. I don't think I'm going to attempt this stuff until I'm more experienced, but I think this type of climbing is what I aspire to.
This video is much more comprehensive than your old one :D I’m now experienced with lead soloing but it’s great to see others putting out better and better guides now adays!
I've watched pretty much every Silent Partner instructional video, and this is by far and away the best of them. Thank you for explaining everything so clearly!
At 16:40, instead of clove hitch the biner you can make a prusik with a hair tie (rope goes through the biner). In case of a fall, the hair tie breaks and you don't shock load the last piece. (a trick learned from Andy Kirkpatrick)
plus you get the stretch from the whole length of rope. A very clever trick
any video for that?
That’s actually so clever. Thanks for sharing it! Never would’ve thought of that.
Hair tie is a great idea. The rock exotica soloist manual mentions this technique using 3mm cord.
I've been doing this ever since learning it here, and it works great! Thanks again
Great video! I knew there had to be a reasonable way to safely solo sport or trad climb. You did a great job laying out, as well as demonstrating just how it all comes together.
best training video i've found on the web. thank you so much.
You deserve more subberonies my g
This video is sooooo helpful especially for someone just trying to learn the fundamentals (like me)
loved it always wondered how solo climbers got up and down
I turn to this video for when I need a refresher. Awesome.
For whatever ever reason... I just got interested in how a climbing works, and this was super interesting, and super informative.
I'm dying to get some climbing gear and starting my journey!!! Thanks for the video 📹 😀
Learned to solo from your last video a few months ago, recently got a silent partner and have been checking to see if I missed anything. Another thing to add is in the instruction manual for the silent partner it specifically says to attach the silent partner to belay loops. I don't think it's too much of a difference but that's what the manufacturer says!
Also 22:30 is exactly the rope solo experience :D
I hope everyone sees this comment. Since I made this video I have started using slip knot to hold the rope weight instead of the clove hitch. It’s cleaner and safer. I also put the micro-trax below my silent partner on the belay loop. It’s a much better spot! You can feed rope with either hand and the whole thing is cleaner.
I don't even remember how I got myself wondering how you safely climb solo without a belay to lock the rope for you but your video made me understand it easily!
Fantastic video with a fantastic explanation
Awesome vid!!
Great video! I thought what would I do if my leading partner drops the rope and I have to bring him down somehow by solo rope climbing. I think about using a gri gri and mini traction in a way similar to yours.
You absoulute, ledgend!
nice vid i have been starting my journey of rope solo climbing and good to see it done the right way. One thing i don't really get is the fundamental behind the ground anchor you installed. You are securing onto the first bolt and this is gonna be your life line so technically speaking as long as you are confident you will reach the first bolt and clip in we don't need a specific ground anchor right?
with no ground anchor you'd take that fall from the first (high) bolt to the ground, (or even any other height) since the rope would have no tension and not be attached to anything. the ground anchor is kind of a passive and fixed belay
@@Lollilol16 can i climb with gri gri and micro traxion because i dont have a silent partner ?
@@bboyorc I'd be very careful with this set up as it is not technically a fall arrest set up.
It's an "ok" set up for top rope solo (although you'd have to deal with slack). But not for lead solo :
1 : you would have to deal with slack and that's exhausting to be doing as well as leading.
2 : the micro trax is not built for shock loads. You risk (1) a system failure and (2) some rope damage.
-in my humble opinion-
If only could find a Silent Partner...discontinued.
Thank you very much for the video. The truth is that I don't understand the use of microtraxion very well. (I use Revo and carabiner in ballestrinque knots for in case that the Revo fails), but what is the function of the microtraxion? Would it be like a second security element in case the Silent Partener fails?
does the silent partner not work when back packing the rope and pulling over the shoulder or do you just prefer to have the slack side come from the ground. i've tried both and i've found that traversing and going around corners can really put a damper on things if the slack side is on the ground and not in a bag, inversely i've had the same happen with routes that the back pack was probably not necessary. i guess its line of site. great work btw.
I’ve tried the backpack and I’m not a huge fan because of the weight and how cumbersome it is. I’m sure there are situations when it’s the best option!
Quite cool and we'll explained
high first bolt lol nice
whats the name of the pulley tool? is it the same what Pete Whittaker used on el cap?
Hanging from two interlocked non-carabinber quickdraws is a bad idea man.
Can only find silent partners on Ebay, they only cost like $1300 lol
What are the names of the pulleys you use?
Hi, thank you. Why are you connecting the SP to the belay ring? According to manual the belay ring should not be used. Thank you.
The manual is very outdated. The reason I connect it to the belay loop is because carabiners are not designed to be loaded in three directions. They are weaker that way. I think the safest thing I’ve seen is using two steel mallions, but that makes it really hard to take off, and you do have to pretty frequently. So, I use two opposing, small, locking carabiners. That’s my level of comfort. You do you!
What do you think about adding an energy absorbing lanyard between the rope and the ground anchor to give an even softer catch?
I think I would need some data showing that it was necessary. The falls don’t seem bad at all to me. There is a lot of shock absorption in the rope, harness, clove hitch, and I don’t see a need for more.
Dynamic climbing rope will have enough stretch to take the shock out of the system.
~16:40 you talk about creating a dangerous situation, could this not be avoided by clipping in to the bolt then decending to just below the previous bolt and tying the clove hitch there? that way you would still have 2 bolts holding you if you were to fall.... Im relatively new to this so im sorry if this is a stupid question.
It’s not a stupid suggestion. It does work, it would just require a lot of going up and down and you could never send anything. The better answer is to either tie slip knots to hold the rope or use a hair tie or some other expendable device to secure the rope to a draw without creating an actual block for the rope.
how many people thought he fell when the camera hit the bush on first few moves lol?
Awesome thanks!! Just bought some rope ima give this a try and then later on by all the little gadgets
I don't climb and I liked your video
only downside i can see is when you fall you want your hands as far away from the belay machine swindling with the rope
Could you fix your problem of having to climb an extra bolt while unsafe if you use a double length alpine quickdraw to hold rope and use a short quickdraw in the same bolt? The rope just needs to be taught enough from the hitch down to the anchor so that the caribiner the hitch is on cant reach the quickdraw. Since that alpine draw would never take load you could put it through the bold side quickdraw instead of the bolt to avoid crossloading by having 2 biners in the bolt? What u think?
I don’t fully understand your whole idea here. What I can say is that a hair tie clipped to a draw and then friction tied with a prussic to the rope does solve the issue. The hair tie will break in case of a fall. That’s the simpler more elegant solution I really should have put in this video.
What I wonder is if you do take a fall is the distance greater than what you would typically experience in a belayed system with a partner?
In my limited experience you fall a bit further, but not much further. Always be wary of allowing slack to accumulate on the "live rope" side of the SP though & remove it if necessary by manually pulling through because it's easy not to notice and then you'd fall further!
I use a microtraxion (or ropeman) but on the belay loop & always have a backup slip knot. If the backup knot saves you then chances are it's going to have to stand a quite high force, so has to be attached to a strong point of the harness.
@@mantis1966 Thanks - I guess one should then climb below maximum level as an ideal!
@@mick7557 Yes, definitely & lots of practice on easy routes first.
These tests give some idea for the SP. Note that the Revo here has been modified to catch more quickly. If he did this with a normal Revo he'd risk hitting the deck!
th-cam.com/video/Xidv-Rda5SM/w-d-xo.html
What alternatives to the Silent Partner do you recommend considering they've stopped making them?
wild country revo?
@@diegosk8bt sounds like an idea yes, however there is no space in the revo to allow for a clove hitch
@@Lollilol16 You wouldn't use a clove hitch! That's specific to the Silent Partner (which is a centrifugal clutch). Any Kirkpatrick's book "Me, Myself and I" explains the principles of using other devices like the Grigri & their potential dangers, like potentially not locking in an inverted fall). The Revo came out after this book though, but the SP was designed for this purpose, the Revo or Grigri wasn't.
The best alternative I know of is a LOV3 (or even LOV2) from Taz. It is a 3 in one type of device (ascender, descender, fall arrest). I use it and back it up with a rollNLock.
I do more Top rope solo than Lead solo though, so I can't say it's 100% good for lead solo as I didn't use the Lov3 for many lead climbs. But it certainly did the job for the few leads I did.
Stay safe ;)
@@Lollilol16 Thanks, yes I've heard of them - looks like a nice bit of kit.
@25:33 do you have 2 Carabiners hooked to each other?
I wanted to get delete climbing for so long, but I’ve just been bouldering, but good thing to know about the silent partner. What website or location did you get the silent partner at?
Unrelated question: what’s the front that you used in this video???
great video! only need to find a silent partner now 😅
Can you please list out the items that you have for the climb? Thank you 🙏🏽
He did in the beginning
If you don’t have a silent partner what alternative piece of gear can you use?
Check out the taz lov 2 or 3.
Nice video. You mentioned the SP is ambidextrous. This is true but I feel you clipped it to your belay loop backwards. I've rigged mine so the leg of rope im clipping is the side closest to the rock and the leg that goes to my stack of slack is behind it. I've accidentally rigged it like you did and it frustrated me the side of rope I was clipping behind and underneath the slack side. Doing high clips above my head gave the SP an awkward half turn. Have you noticed this?
Πολύ ώρα όμως το κράτησες το βίντεο, ρε παλικάρι.
17:40 I don't think you have 30-40 feet of your rope in the system in case you fell. When you fall, the rope elongation below the draw will be limited by the length of the sling. 30 feet of rope during a modest fall will stretch by around 20%, which is roughly 6 feet. The sling will tense up and take the rest of the load after maybe 3 feet. It's obviously still far better than nothing but not as great as you advertise, and the clove-hitched bolt will get some shock load. Unless you maybe use a riddiculously long sling :)
I actually don’t really disagree with you. The alternative is to use hair ties prussiked to the rope to hold the rope weight. I wish I had mentioned this option. The reason I don’t do it is because it can’t be done with one hand. I should have put it in the video though. Thanks for the comment!
@@peterjacobs8560 A third option is to tie the sling to the rope with a klemheist knot (a directional prusik). It locks in one direction and slips in the other. Plus it can be tied one handed (easier than a clove imo).
You can avoid the risk of FF2:ing onto the sling by first clipping a quickdraw and the rope as normal, klemheist the rope with a double length sling or cord and then finally clip the sling to the top biner.
@@1234qwerlmao Another option is to tie a slipknot just above the caribiner on the quickdraw - the draw then supports the weight of the rope, pulling upwards takes the knot out of the system. It needs practice to do it one-handed, but definitely possible. Adds about 30cm of extra slack in case of a fall though.
Great video man, thank you. Fuck though yesterday I go out sayin to myself " I need to be less afraid to fall, and I wanna lead a pitch I'm sure i can work something out"
DISCLAIMER: If your reading this and are as inexperienced as I am don't take any other inspiration from this other then be careful and don't do shit you shouldn't, God protects fools so i should be good
So I decide the best course of action is to tie a figure 8 at the bottom of the rope connect it to a non-locking quick draw (because it's what i got) then go ahead and climb to the second bolt with no protection and hook the rope in (grigri already on harness and rope) now tie a figure 8 on a bite connect it to my harness and start taking falls .
I don't go too hard but get more comfortable falling and being caught. (On a single bolt connected to a non-locker XD)
Good lets continue leading and tie a safety knot behind my grigri just in case and .....
oh shit I can't go any further up and stop hard when knot hits untie it and oh the grigri don't like feeding this way .....
oh i have lots of slack , I can make the clip easy ....
why do i have so much slack? .....
ahhhh my anchor has detached (because it was not a locking quick draw and I was fighting it) nothing for it i guess I'm grabbing the rope and just manually controlling my decent ( thinking on it i should have tied a figure 8 connected to my harness and rappelled or even continued if i wanted and had a stopper knot in case the grigri failed ) so i get to the ground and no problems reconnect and climb back up .
Now back at the same ledge again I look down at this fucking mess of rope and reach the conclusion that with the grigri, the hollow block prusik, the single locking beiner, and the total of ten solo outings as climbing experience that I have it is probably irresponsible to continue solo leading and I had better bring some more gear and experience.
So i set up my top rope and have fun.
It's a damn shame I can't just buy a silent partner and I'm literally going to have to approach a machine shop/or see about making it myself. Has anyone done this already? Have seen the idea tossed about in forms but no one saying they have and here's some advice along with the 3d design that you can bring to a machine shop to get a discount , and probably deburr it yourself and make sure everything is super smooth.
Dude who in the hell is going to read all that?
I didn't know Patrice Bergeron was so into rope soloing. But seriously, those Silent Partners are impossible to get and sell for like $1400 on eBay. You can't be flexing on us like that. Isn't there anything else I can use? What's the second-best device for that purpose that won't kill me? Preferably one that is still in production.
Bit of a late response but the grigri is also a widely used device. Some people make a weird modified chest harness but you can also just let it hang off your belay loop. Everything else is the same
What a fuckin nightmare
Anybody know where I can get a silent partner?
Ebay or rope solo fb groups. Be prepared for 600-1000 US price tags
This video has not aged well with the increasing price of the silent partner. Perhaps a video describing the process without one?
Personally i dont use the rope
pretty good example, the music at the end was obnoxious and loud.
You talk a little too fast. Can’t understand what you’re saying sometimes. Slow down just a bit when talking about the importance of certain ropes & what to do with them. What is a ground maker.?? You also said something about slack rope with a partner I think. About 3:30 min into the video. Not sure really what you were talking about.
I'm selling my silent partner. Here is the ebay listing: ebay.us/GFT2tM?cmpnId=5338273189
Why?
Nice video but a bit pointless, I'm afraid, as it's near impossible to get hold of a silent partner.