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Climbed both pitches of Something Interesting at the Gunks using the Wild Country Revo while solo trad climbing. This was a hard climb to clean because of the traverse. I had to aid, reverse aid the traverse when cleaning the route. You will need lots of experience if you are thinking of cleaning this route on the rap. The setup I use would be rope bag on my back with the 100 meter rope, the rope has safety knots about every 5-10 feet, and I use the Revo as the self belay device. I do prefer the Revo over the Gri-Gri and I have some videos of me testing falls with each device on my TH-cam channel or click here • Testing falls Revo vs ... . Perfect climb for December. Part 2 coming soon or click here to view it now- • #190 Solo Trad Climbin...
Amazon links for equipment
Recommended Rope Bag-amzn.to/2TYhBcJ
50,60,70,80,100 meter rope-amzn.to/2PgOoq3
Belay device for rope soloing-amzn.to/2P9OfEK
Black Diamond cam set-amzn.to/2StNVms
Metolious Cam set-amzn.to/2PgJbyA
4 pack twist locking carabiner for $30-amzn.to/2SloN17
Single twist locking carabiner-amzn.to/2Pau4GH
Wild Country Revos-amzn.to/2Cczr58
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Great setup and video. However the ominous music gave me more anxiety than any 5.7 ever could. Where did you find a track called "something real bad is about to happen! any second now..."
Haha, yea you got a point there.
I ve just felt the opposite, I find this music very zen, very close to real feeling when I rope solo climb and the route is exactly what I expected to be. It is the only appropiate alternate sound for the real silence and my heartbeat.
I believe you can clip directly into you pro since no rope drag. I like to put a screamer by the anchor to add further shock absorbion to the system.
That is very true. I'm so used to trad leading long pitches on belay.
9:04 is a good example of where a tri-cam would come in handy on the horizontal crack thats why I usually rack 1 or 2
So many nut placements on that route you could lace it up with stoppers only. I used to guide that route BITD, circa summers of 1982 and 1983.
I agree, great route for nuts. Problem is I clean on rappel with no backup so cams are much easier to clean when you swing the 20 feet to the left;)
gunkclimber, sorry if I've missed something but seeing your anchor would worry my. It's set up for a downwards load, a lead fall would pull it upwards. Your cams would rotate 90 degrees or more which could pop them out of their placements or make them unstable. EDIT, could be perfectly safe, I just noticed this in the video but obviously cannot check out the placements in as much detail as you probably did on the day, and would rather point this out than not and somebody get injured.
Nice idea to clip the pack, how heavy is it?
Hmmm, this was a while ago. From what I can remember I did set the anchor up for an upwards load, not a downward load. Though the rope was hanging down down to the start before I took off. I think I used my pack on the ground as a counterweight. I might have to go back and watch this again. The gopro sometimes makes gear look funky. I did forget to munter hitch the first piece of gear. I think I end up putting a munter right before the crux. The backpack I wear in this video from what I remember is quite heavy because I think I use a 100 meter rope so I can climb two pitches and come down and clean.
Revo seems interesting for solo climbing. It needs some speed to lock up though.
I would keep backup knots connected to belay loop. Carabiners are known to break when cross loaded on a fall. When carabiner breaks, only backups connected to climber help.
Yea I would recommend anyone rope soloing with the Revo to backup knots to their harness. I will deal with the small risk of not doing that
Carabiners are known to break? Since when? Lmao
Noice 👌
Looks like a level I could manage for my first lead rope solo trad
Definitely a good rope soloing climb.
That was very impressive. I'm a newby and have a question: what happens to the tools you push into the rock wholes (which are then fixed and you put your rope into)? Do they remain for ever in the rock or do you pull them out again, when you go downwards to the start point?
Basically I place the gear to catch my falls as I go up, and remove the gear when I rappel afterwards. Each piece can cost about $50 so you definitely don't want to leave anything on the wall.
how safe do you feel with Revo?...is it solid enough for a big fall?
The revo has caught all my tested falls. I fell with knots, with knots it is close to full proof. The silent partner would be better.
@@gunkclimber thank you, i appreciate the answer!
would you recommend a multi pitch configuration to use with with Revo ?
On a multi pitch, I would just use the Revo with the rope with knots in a backpack. Once the pitch is finished, I would just fix the line. Rappel, then jug and clean the pitch, and then start up the next pitch with the rope with knots in a backpack again and continue like this to the top.
@@gunkclimber can you elaborate ? we so far use it upside down, but not ideal when pulled too fast , its hard to click with both strands of rope under heavy tension
Not really sure what you mean. But when I rope solo multi pitch on lead. I fix the anchor at the bottom, I pack the rest of the rope in a backpack rope bag with knots as backup (you only need to tie knots on half the rope). When you get to to the top of that pitch, you fix the rope at that point and rappel down the rope to the beginning of that pitch. You should use an atc because the Revo doesn't work well on rappel. Then you jug back up the rope after you clean the bottom anchor and clean all the gear on the way up. To do multi pitch you should have jumars because it makes jugging back up the rope so much easier. Once you get back to the top of that pitch. You make another anchor with the rope, put the rest of the rope in the backpack rope bag with knots. And continue the journey like this to the top.
video interessante , percato per la musica di merda da becchino nel sottofondo che copre tutte le parole e davvero infastidisce solamente. ma chi la messa '? e perchè ? meglio rumore naturale che quella specie di suono ma che cazzzo di editing.. che nervoso
Estupendo un 5.7 en medio de tantos 5.14, 5.15, jajaja y hasta unos 5.2000
Me encanta ver a un solista de cuerda subir un 5.13 o 5.14 con un país salvaje Revo. Ese escalador tendría grandes bolas. jaja
Love to see a rope soloist climb a 5.13 or 5.14 with a wild country Revo. That climber would have big balls. haha
backup?
Backup knots in the rope
I wish you showed yourself cleaning the route.
I should have but it was difficult because of the traverse. I did many aiding tricks to clean all the gear. It wasn't easy. I wouldn't recommend anyone clean the route like I cleaned the route. I do however have a few videos of me cleaning a few rope soloed routes.
Hiya, very interested in the Revo as a roped solo device. How did it feed compared to a grigri setup? Have you taken a fall on the Revo yet?
I have tested both devices with falls. This video I take falls on both devices. th-cam.com/video/H8jVpZNGlzU/w-d-xo.html
Here's a guy who did it: th-cam.com/video/f94rrNcaYBo/w-d-xo.html
Yea, I have seen that video. Not sure why the sheath broke on that rope. I have used old ropes with the revo and never had a problem and I weigh more then the 160 lbs. he used. I am wondering if its because he is dropping on one fixed anchor, so the rope has no stretch in it. I always used a couple pieces of gear as if I was actually leading. Unless maybe his revo is defective. Interesting results regardless.
is the revo modified? love your videos man!!
The Revo I use is not modified.
No music would of made a better video
Yea, I got sick of adding music anyway. Took too long too add music to the videos, so most of my videos don't have any music.