After watching nearly all timing belt and water pump replacement videos, must say this is one of the best. Well shot with good lighting so you can see clearly what needs to be done. Commentary is clear and concise with excellent tips and tricks. Thanks for going into the effect of making such a great tutorial.
Nice, clear video, BUT you're supposed to set the cam belt tensioner after 1 5/6 turns - this is where all the slack in the belt is on the tensioner side - there is an extra mark on the case which is visible to the left of the belt at 8:40. After fitting the belt, turn the engine 1 full rotation from TDC and then continue around until the notch in the crank pulley lines up with that extra mark (another 5/6 of a turn) then slacken & re-tighten the tensioner bolt. You get another ~3mm of movement out of it over setting it at TDC.
@@Project380 Cheers - I've just done the job those are the instructions from the Mazda workshop manual. After setting the tensioner you then turn it 2 1/6 turns (so back to TDC then another 2 turns) to measure the belt tension.
Super good tutorial, very professional, it helped me to do this job. Your English accent is very clear and easy to understand so it helped too. Also, the music chosen is very good!!! Thanks for it!!!
@Project380 Absolutely brilliant. Being a numpty regarding mechanicals, your video was bang on for me. I am having this job done soon on my MX-5 and was curious about the mechanicals. There’s obviously no way I could have done it myself, but it gives me an appreciation and understanding of what my regular mechanic has to do. Puts several other videos on the same subject to shame. Thanks.
Gearing up to do the timing/water pump/crank and cam seals on the 01 I just bought. This is a great video, I’ll be rewinding and rewatching it probably 30 times while I do the job lol
Thanks for the video. I have an NA with a bad water pump leaking and making a terrible racket. I was going to replace it myself but after watching this I'm going to hire it out. 😄
Thanks for this amazing video brotha, I had an 03 come into my shop Friday & ALLDATA wasnt as specific as I wanted it to be but ur video definitely answered all my questions
Got all the bits and seeing this video I am now minded to do this job myself, seeing how easy it is to remove the radiator and drop the roll bar to gain access. Looking to change the front crankshaft oil seal while I am at it since I had the rear done last year when the clutch was changed. Thanks for the excellent descriptions and clear video, lighting really makes a difference.
Thank you 😎. take your time and double check everything im sure you can do it. The front oil seal is pretty easy, i cover this in my POV diagnostics video, it is on a MK1 but the seal and procedure is exactly the same
thank you for the vvt videos, very easy to follow along - i don't know if you're aware but it's not possible to save this vid to a private playlist. thanks.
Fantastic video. Simple clear instructions and great footage. I feel I can trust everything you say. Thank you :-) One question though; should the cam seals, and the front crank seal not be done too, and is there anything else I've missed?
Great clip, really methodically executed. I'm still struggling to remove the harmonic damper - is it feasible to remove the crank bolt with it on, tapping off the dampener and then refitting the crank bolt?
thank you, yes you can but there are some disadvantages, you wont easily be able to see the timing mark when re assembling, be very careful when tapping the balancer as they do like to chip. and lastly changing the woodruff key is alot more difficult
@@Project380 many thanks for the advice. I managed to get the bolt off and there would have been no chance the dampener could have been eased off it was really rust-welded on!.
So I am thinking crank and cam seals as well, and camshafts out to clean the lifters. Plus a CAS O-ring to boot. Wish me luck and thanks for making a great vid!
I really like the way you always explain what are performing but I’m disappointed that you install the old parts without cleaning. Thank you for teaching us
I’m going to be doing this to my own little NBfl this weekend. Slightly intimidated but I’ve watched your video 3 or 4 times now, everyone, please hope the crankshaft bolt isn’t too bad on mine 🤞
Me puedes decir donde comprar ese adaptador que pusiste arriva para sujetar los ejes, Para que no se muevan los engranes. Por favor, Pero tu video es un excelente.
Great video thank you for all the help! I did have one question though, what kind of sealant did you use? I'm on the last steps where you install the waterpump I just want to make sure I grab the right type of sealant. Thanks again for all the help!
Hey, what is that gel at 12:45? What is in that tube and how heat resistant is it? I can't seem to figure out what sealing that is and bought wrong ones already :D I also have a different question, can i use the old metal gasket on the waterpump? Thank you in advance, I am doing it on my miata with your video and it's going smoothly till now! There is a trick I used to get the harmonic balancer off, you should also try it the next time you change any timing belt: Since the engine would turn clockwise, but a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt facing to the right and put a metal bar/tube on it, so it's blocked by the ground(Like this \ ). Next step is, turn the ignition untill the engine tries to start, but turn off after a split second and the force of the engine will loosen the screw easily and you dont have to do all the handbreak and 5th gear stuff. Hope this helps you a bit in exchange, even though your viedo already helped me much more!
thts just hylomar blue, perfect for water pumps, ive never had an issue. i would reuse the metal gasket as its a crush gasket ooo how much strain will tht put on the starter and flywheel though?
@@Project380 Sadly I don't know anything for certain, but I don't think there is a problem. I know a mechanic and he does it all the time and had been doing it for years with no issues. Im no mechanic but it was logical for me, since in theory you hold the screw and it can't move vertically. The bolt still can slide outwards as it unscrews as long as you don't block its way horizontally. If you would lock the bar in one spot the bolt might break or put even more strain on the flywheel. The worst case scenario would be if the engine would rotate counter-clockwise. In that case the bolt would definitely break and other expensive accidents might happen there. There might be videos or more info about it on youtube or car forums
so you said about doing the cam seals you will loose timing, should the seals be replaced before doing the belt so then you can put the cam pulleys back on and make sure they are lined up before you take belt off, is that the correct process?
@@Project380 did my belt and all is good but i have a wierd whirring sort of noise inbetween 1k and 2k rpm, do u know what this could be? my assumption is that the belt may be loose so is there any way of tightening the belt anymore with the tensioner pulley?
Great Video. I Will replace the alternator, water pump and timing belt in 2 weeks on my NB. What is it you add to the gasket before putting it on? I´ve had issues before with a leaking gasket on the thermostat housing. That was an easy fix, but considering how deep the water pump is burryed, i don´t wanna go in there again because of a bad gasket.
Any pointers regarding the crank pulley with an NB 1.8 auto? I don’t have the option of holding the engine in gear in the traditional sense. The bolt hasn’t been off in 22 years and looks really rusty along with the pulley 😆
I bought an mx5 the other day and its got the exact same aftermarket cold air induction thingy, think its typhoon systems k&n, any chance you could tell me if the filter is meant to be black or if i need to re oil it? cause mine looks exaclty like yours!
@@Project380 thanks so much, i havve the red pipe with black filter, or well, it's black now, but i dont know if that's cause all the red oil has worn off, i found a universal k and n filter that looks like it will go on the end, it's red - i may just wash my current 1 with water until then though? thoughts?
You did an excellent job with good visuals and clear explanations. Do you have any thoughts about replacing the front engine seal and cam seals at the same time?
How is the gates waterpump holding up?? I went to my local auto shop and bought one of there waterpumps about a year ago and im unfortunately getting a leak from the same area on the motor so i am assuming its my waterpump failing
If I’m removing the head to get shaved off, I just need to align the arrow with the indent at the bottom of the engine and get the cam gears to align to the markings at the top right? That’ll make sure the timing is right? I’m just worried about the timing once it’s time to put the head back on
One thing i found my mx5’s harmonic balancer had the centre bolt connected to it so i was tryjng to pull it off and wouldnt budge found out the centre bolt on nb1 bp4w engine connects to said harmonic balancer
@@Project380 tbf i think the balancer is just locked onto it completely to the point the 2 parts cant be separated easily but i try rubber mallet and everything cos the harmonic balancer looks just like the one in the video but doesnt matter as i just took out the centre bolt and it comes with it so can still get to everything just means if i need to replace it ill have to buy new prolly
Well its taken me about three hoirs to get to the stage of removing the harmonic dampener. I'm expecting another 5-6 hours but then again I'm using a die on a lot of the rusted screw threads before refitting them with anti seize. The main issue is seized or rusted parts
I double checked the user manual. Apparently you're supposed to put on the belt with tensioner loose, Then do 1 and 5/6ths rotations until the notch on the crankshaft cog lines up with a small marker to the left of top dead centre which is the "tension set mark". THEN you loosen the bolt on the tensioner so it takes up the slack. Then another 2 and 1/6ths rotations to check all lined up at TDC. Might be a bit easier
At the risk of knowing I sound like an idiot. I will ask anyway when doing the coolant refill if I bought a premixed coolant will this mean I need two lots to equal the 6ltrs? or for some reason do I dilute the premixed more?
After changing water pump, when I try to tighem timing belt idler it rubs with bottom side of timing cover. Is it normal? Or maybe I installed waterpump wrong? Thank you.
ugh! ive resealed my waterpump twice, and it started leaking after both. the first time i just used paper gaskets and nothing else. the second time i used a wire brush to clean the gasket surfaces and used a metal gasket paired with some sealent and it still started leaking! i'm just going to replace the water pump and try again. i hope the water pump is the issue and not me. i literelly rebuilt this engine and somehow i can't reseal the damn waterpump.
After watching nearly all timing belt and water pump replacement videos, must say this is one of the best. Well shot with good lighting so you can see clearly what needs to be done. Commentary is clear and concise with excellent tips and tricks. Thanks for going into the effect of making such a great tutorial.
Thank you i really appreciate the feed back. i hope the video was helpful
@@Project380
My timing is off to start not this will basically fix the problem right? By aligning the crank and the camshafts ?
Very good, well planned and thoroughly explained in a non rushed and distractive manner. Excellent
Glad you liked it!
Nice, clear video, BUT you're supposed to set the cam belt tensioner after 1 5/6 turns - this is where all the slack in the belt is on the tensioner side - there is an extra mark on the case which is visible to the left of the belt at 8:40. After fitting the belt, turn the engine 1 full rotation from TDC and then continue around until the notch in the crank pulley lines up with that extra mark (another 5/6 of a turn) then slacken & re-tighten the tensioner bolt. You get another ~3mm of movement out of it over setting it at TDC.
😯😯😯😯thank you, even i ddint know this, more people need to know
@@Project380 Cheers - I've just done the job those are the instructions from the Mazda workshop manual. After setting the tensioner you then turn it 2 1/6 turns (so back to TDC then another 2 turns) to measure the belt tension.
Thanks a lot. Spent the day with my 16 year old doing this job. Much thanks for the great vid. Peace.
i hope the video helped you. and thank you
Thank you for: clear instructions, bright light, steady camera, showing every step, metric system
thank you its greatly appreciated
This has got to be the best video on these belts and water pump
Thank you
thank you i really appreciate it
Great job, thank you. I am nearly done tearing down my 05' NB2 for a head gasket repair. Your video is one of the best and most thorough I have found.
thank you i really appreciate that
Super good tutorial, very professional, it helped me to do this job. Your English accent is very clear and easy to understand so it helped too. Also, the music chosen is very good!!! Thanks for it!!!
😊😊😊thank you I really appreciate the positive feedback. I'm glad my video helped you out
Agreed, best how-to on YT that I could find on the subject. And thankful that it was on an NB! Thanks for being so thorough!
Thank you I appreciate it 😊
@Project380 Absolutely brilliant. Being a numpty regarding mechanicals, your video was bang on for me. I am having this job done soon on my MX-5 and was curious about the mechanicals. There’s obviously no way I could have done it myself, but it gives me an appreciation and understanding of what my regular mechanic has to do. Puts several other videos on the same subject to shame. Thanks.
thank you i really appreciate it. at least my video has helped you decide whether you do the job yourself or not
I like the vented hood work on this car, looks good.
thank you 😎
Gearing up to do the timing/water pump/crank and cam seals on the 01 I just bought. This is a great video, I’ll be rewinding and rewatching it probably 30 times while I do the job lol
ahh awesome hopefully my video helps 😎
@@Project380 hell yea it definitely will!
Used this video to help me change mine, with the right tools and some hard work I got it done. Super helpful. 👍🏼
awesome im glad it helped
Thanks for the video.
I have an NA with a bad water pump leaking and making a terrible racket.
I was going to replace it myself but after watching this I'm going to hire it out. 😄
even though you're hiring the job out I'm glad this video helped you make a decision
Great video. Great explanation. Congrats.
Thank you, i hope it helped 😊
Im doing my timing belt tomorrow wish me luck i will be studying this video
how did it go mate? i hope my video helped
Awesome video, thank you! It was nice to have a step by step vid with another vvt car to see some of the slight differences throughout the job.
thank you 😎
Best video of this work on youtube 🙏🏻💪🏻
thank you i really appreciate it
Very thorough video. Gives me the confidence to do it myself, thank you!
You can do it!
@@Project380 I did it! It took me a lot longer but I referenced your video multiple times. Thank you again!
@@iko3 aww awesome, im glad my video helped 😊😊
Great job on the video! Very detailed and well put together, thanks!
Much appreciated! thank you
Chill and thorough, love your videos
Thank you i appreciate it
malaka, simply amazing stuff here.
thank you 😎
Thanks for this amazing video brotha, I had an 03 come into my shop Friday & ALLDATA wasnt as specific as I wanted it to be but ur video definitely answered all my questions
ahh awesome im glad this video helped you out 😎
Great video my dad and I just put a timing belt and water pump in my 05 mazdaspeed this video helped lots
thank you that means alot, im glad this video helped you
Got all the bits and seeing this video I am now minded to do this job myself, seeing how easy it is to remove the radiator and drop the roll bar to gain access. Looking to change the front crankshaft oil seal while I am at it since I had the rear done last year when the clutch was changed. Thanks for the excellent descriptions and clear video, lighting really makes a difference.
Thank you 😎. take your time and double check everything im sure you can do it. The front oil seal is pretty easy, i cover this in my POV diagnostics video, it is on a MK1 but the seal and procedure is exactly the same
Great video. Very thorough. I'll be referring to this when we do the same job on my son's '99 MX-5. Thank you for making this video. Happy Motoring 🚘
thank you, i hope you find this video useful
@@Project380 I sure did find this useful. Thnx !
Great video so glad I watched this before doing mine lots of good tips I wouldn't have known
Glad it helped
thank you for the vvt videos, very easy to follow along - i don't know if you're aware but it's not possible to save this vid to a private playlist. thanks.
your welcome. o really ill take a look into my settings
Fantastic video. Simple clear instructions and great footage. I feel I can trust everything you say. Thank you :-) One question though; should the cam seals, and the front crank seal not be done too, and is there anything else I've missed?
thank you i really appreciate it.
yes they defiantly should of been done, but due to shipping and time constraints it didn't happen
When that much sealant is used, doesn't some of it get into the engine?
good question, ive never had a problem and the oil pickup and filter have always been pretty clean, i just cant help myself when it comes to sealant 😂
Great clip, really methodically executed. I'm still struggling to remove the harmonic damper - is it feasible to remove the crank bolt with it on, tapping off the dampener and then refitting the crank bolt?
thank you, yes you can but there are some disadvantages, you wont easily be able to see the timing mark when re assembling, be very careful when tapping the balancer as they do like to chip. and lastly changing the woodruff key is alot more difficult
@@Project380 many thanks for the advice. I managed to get the bolt off and there would have been no chance the dampener could have been eased off it was really rust-welded on!.
So I am thinking crank and cam seals as well, and camshafts out to clean the lifters. Plus a CAS O-ring to boot. Wish me luck and thanks for making a great vid!
good luck my friend, tht should all be easy with the timing belt off
I really like the way you always explain what are performing but I’m disappointed that you install the old parts without cleaning.
Thank you for teaching us
if this was my car and we had more time i would definitely be cleaning every little bit. but thank you 😊
@@Project380 thank you for explain
I’m going to be doing this to my own little NBfl this weekend. Slightly intimidated but I’ve watched your video 3 or 4 times now, everyone, please hope the crankshaft bolt isn’t too bad on mine 🤞
my fingers are crossed for you, good luck
@@Project380 it worked dude 🤘🏼 with the help of your video and around the 20 times I watched it over and over. Feels like a different car now!
how long did it take, good to know.@@AT-sf3wq
Thanks, good video. I noticed you used 2 different type of sealants. Could you share what you used?
yes of course
for everything that is not coolant i use RTV sealant
for everything coolant related i use Hylomar blue
was that just sealant you used on the top of the engine in between the head and the head gasket?
you mean the head and the valve cover? if so yes its RTV sealant
Excellent! Thank you!
You are welcome!
this has given me the confidence to do my first timing belt change. So helpful, many thanks!
good luck and thank you 😊
How long did it take you?
@@quxzi5187 i can do the job in about two hours if no bolts break
Me puedes decir donde comprar ese adaptador que pusiste arriva para sujetar los ejes, Para que no se muevan los engranes. Por favor, Pero tu video es un excelente.
Ahhh I see. I purchased from bofi racing. Or you can get it from jass performance
Hi mate, just wondering what type of sealant you used for the water pump? Cheers.
hylomar blue 👍
@Project380 amazing thank you mate. Really appreciate your help.
Great video thank you for all the help! I did have one question though, what kind of sealant did you use? I'm on the last steps where you install the waterpump I just want to make sure I grab the right type of sealant. Thanks again for all the help!
Thank you 😊. for the coolant components i used Hylomar blue and everything else i used RTV sealant
Great video, appreciate it!
thank you , i hope it helped
Gracias vidio muy interesante y bien explicado. enhorabuena¡
de nada, me alegra que te haya ayudado
Hey, what is that gel at 12:45? What is in that tube and how heat resistant is it? I can't seem to figure out what sealing that is and bought wrong ones already :D
I also have a different question, can i use the old metal gasket on the waterpump?
Thank you in advance, I am doing it on my miata with your video and it's going smoothly till now!
There is a trick I used to get the harmonic balancer off, you should also try it the next time you change any timing belt: Since the engine would turn clockwise, but a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt facing to the right and put a metal bar/tube on it, so it's blocked by the ground(Like this \ ). Next step is, turn the ignition untill the engine tries to start, but turn off after a split second and the force of the engine will loosen the screw easily and you dont have to do all the handbreak and 5th gear stuff. Hope this helps you a bit in exchange, even though your viedo already helped me much more!
thts just hylomar blue, perfect for water pumps, ive never had an issue.
i would reuse the metal gasket as its a crush gasket
ooo how much strain will tht put on the starter and flywheel though?
@@Project380 Sadly I don't know anything for certain, but I don't think there is a problem. I know a mechanic and he does it all the time and had been doing it for years with no issues. Im no mechanic but it was logical for me, since in theory you hold the screw and it can't move vertically. The bolt still can slide outwards as it unscrews as long as you don't block its way horizontally. If you would lock the bar in one spot the bolt might break or put even more strain on the flywheel.
The worst case scenario would be if the engine would rotate counter-clockwise. In that case the bolt would definitely break and other expensive accidents might happen there.
There might be videos or more info about it on youtube or car forums
Would the process be the same for my 1997 MK1 1.8?
Considering the timing belt/water pump kit is the same for the 1.8 MK1/2/2.5s
yes, just skip the vvt step
How many miles is the belt change recomended
every 60k, but i would personally do it every 2-3 years as its cheep and easy
so you said about doing the cam seals you will loose timing, should the seals be replaced before doing the belt so then you can put the cam pulleys back on and make sure they are lined up before you take belt off, is that the correct process?
yeah you should definitly do the seals before putting the cam pulleys on, i definitly should of done this
@@Project380 did my belt and all is good but i have a wierd whirring sort of noise inbetween 1k and 2k rpm, do u know what this could be? my assumption is that the belt may be loose so is there any way of tightening the belt anymore with the tensioner pulley?
@@louisrobinson5952 it may actualy be too tight, have you checked the belt deflection?
Great Video. I Will replace the alternator, water pump and timing belt in 2 weeks on my NB. What is it you add to the gasket before putting it on? I´ve had issues before with a leaking gasket on the thermostat housing. That was an easy fix, but considering how deep the water pump is burryed, i don´t wanna go in there again because of a bad gasket.
thank you. its hylomar blue or gasket blue. good luck
Any tips on removing ancient gaskets that are stuck on pretty well.
A good sharp gasket scraper and some sand paper.
Impressive; big job
thank you. its only big if you think its big, dont let it scare you
@@Project380 it is just that i want to remember how to put things back...maybe i would need to take pics and take it slowly
@@guitariste47 take all the pictures you can, take it slow, you got this
Any pointers regarding the crank pulley with an NB 1.8 auto?
I don’t have the option of holding the engine in gear in the traditional sense.
The bolt hasn’t been off in 22 years and looks really rusty along with the pulley 😆
hmmm i never thought of this, i actualy made a tool to bolt to the front that wedges up against the chassis locking the crank, its a bit janky though
This shit was so easy to go thru. So simple and well explained.
thank you i hope it helps 😊
@Project380 Where did you find the copper washers for the VVT oiler?
i got them from my work but easily found on ebay
What type of Sealant did he use? I was hoping to use the same one lol
on which part?
coolant parts i used hylomar blue
the rest i used rtv
I bought an mx5 the other day and its got the exact same aftermarket cold air induction thingy, think its typhoon systems k&n, any chance you could tell me if the filter is meant to be black or if i need to re oil it? cause mine looks exaclty like yours!
there is three different kits
silver pipe with black filter,
red pipe with black filter,
red pipe with red filter,
its worth cleaning it anyways
@@Project380 thanks so much, i havve the red pipe with black filter, or well, it's black now, but i dont know if that's cause all the red oil has worn off, i found a universal k and n filter that looks like it will go on the end, it's red - i may just wash my current 1 with water until then though? thoughts?
@@kach0937 K AND N do a recharge kit which is pretty good
You did an excellent job with good visuals and clear explanations. Do you have any thoughts about replacing the front engine seal and cam seals at the same time?
THANK YOU 😊 yes it would be a good idea to change these seals at the same time
Hi there! Is this a 1.8 or 1.6 that the work is being done on? Thanks so much!
its a vvt engine which only comes in 1.8 but the procedure is almost identical
How is the gates waterpump holding up?? I went to my local auto shop and bought one of there waterpumps about a year ago and im unfortunately getting a leak from the same area on the motor so i am assuming its my waterpump failing
ive never had a problem with a gates waterpump. are you sure the mating surface is flat and true ?
Is draining coolant necessary if I dont remove radiator? I have changed crank pulley without removing radiator so space shouldn't be issue?
if your doing the water pump too then yes drain the coolant
If I’m removing the head to get shaved off, I just need to align the arrow with the indent at the bottom of the engine and get the cam gears to align to the markings at the top right? That’ll make sure the timing is right? I’m just worried about the timing once it’s time to put the head back on
yep thats right, just make sure all the marks line up and you should be fine
For the part where you put it in 5th gear and the hand brake for a manual transmission, what would you do if it’s an automatic transmission?
pop it in park with hand break on
Thank your for the feedback you’re video helped out a lot . Another question would putting it in natural instead of park be different?
the crank pulley has 2 marks, how do you know which one to line up with the arrow?
one has a t on it and the other has 10, you want to use the t mark
no new cam seals?
i should of yes, but robbie (the owner of the car) forgot to order them
Great video! I am soon to do the same job. Where can I purchase the cam lockin tool?
thank you 😊 visit BOFI racing for the locking tool
Hey! I have a 1.6 B6T from a 323. Process should be about the same, right?
i believe its a very similar process as they are both a ford h beam engine
One thing i found my mx5’s harmonic balancer had the centre bolt connected to it so i was tryjng to pull it off and wouldnt budge found out the centre bolt on nb1 bp4w engine connects to said harmonic balancer
thats strange ive never seen on like that
@@Project380 tbf i think the balancer is just locked onto it completely to the point the 2 parts cant be separated easily but i try rubber mallet and everything cos the harmonic balancer looks just like the one in the video but doesnt matter as i just took out the centre bolt and it comes with it so can still get to everything just means if i need to replace it ill have to buy new prolly
How long does this normally take?
start to finish about three hours if your being careful
Well its taken me about three hoirs to get to the stage of removing the harmonic dampener. I'm expecting another 5-6 hours but then again I'm using a die on a lot of the rusted screw threads before refitting them with anti seize. The main issue is seized or rusted parts
I wish they would’ve explained how tightly does the timing belt with the alternator/water pump belt and the air conditioning/power steering belt
im sorry i dont follow...?
brilliant video thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
I double checked the user manual. Apparently you're supposed to put on the belt with tensioner loose, Then do 1 and 5/6ths rotations until the notch on the crankshaft cog lines up with a small marker to the left of top dead centre which is the "tension set mark". THEN you loosen the bolt on the tensioner so it takes up the slack. Then another 2 and 1/6ths rotations to check all lined up at TDC. Might be a bit easier
yeah either way works, same result
At the risk of knowing I sound like an idiot. I will ask anyway when doing the coolant refill if I bought a premixed coolant will this mean I need two lots to equal the 6ltrs? or for some reason do I dilute the premixed more?
try keep the premix as it is, you can buy a 5 litre and a 1 litre bottle to save money
Should specify which engine this is and what gen. i THINK this is a 1.6 from a NA
this a bpw with vvt which only comes as an 1.8
yep your right this is a vvt which only comes in the mk2.5 1.8
Can you sey me, Where I buy the shaft adapter what's the neme, Please
Shaft adaptor?
After changing water pump, when I try to tighem timing belt idler it rubs with bottom side of timing cover. Is it normal? Or maybe I installed waterpump wrong? Thank you.
this is a common problem, the timing covers sag or get broken over time, just replace them
Great video...
Thank you I appreciate it 😊
Best video
thank you 😊
01:37 puts on his safety glasses.
safety squint 🤣
Can I do this with the engine out of car?
yes of course you can. just hold the flywheel with a bolt and pry bar when you torque up the crank bolt
@@Project380 thank you!
ugh! ive resealed my waterpump twice, and it started leaking after both. the first time i just used paper gaskets and nothing else. the second time i used a wire brush to clean the gasket surfaces and used a metal gasket paired with some sealent and it still started leaking! i'm just going to replace the water pump and try again. i hope the water pump is the issue and not me. i literelly rebuilt this engine and somehow i can't reseal the damn waterpump.
sounds like it could be a warped water pump, are you torqueing the bolts correctly? if you over tighten it will warp and leek
@@Project380 well yeah I torqued to 17 ft LBs but my torqewrench is questionably accurate. I've been meaning to get another.
Would a 2012 mx5 2lt be the same or is it a chain drive?
its Definity not the same I'm afraid, I'm led to believe they are chain
Nightmare design
ive worked on alot worse 😂