ALL of your videos are VERY low in the audio! Also, why bring up 3 phase???? WHY do most, if not ALL electricians call 120/240 L1/l2 phases??? it is NOT phase, it is LINE 1 and LINE 2. They are 180 degrees out, NOT 120 degrees.
Yes please have the logo vanished after a while. The volume on most of your videos is too low I want to here what you have to say please relocate mike closer to you.... I really like your videos and your attitude but its a struggle to here you most of the time
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I have been an electrician for about six years, I'm still learning at this point, there are a lot of electricians out there and every one of them has their own ideas and way of troubleshooting and wiring. Your effort is greatly appreciated.
A safer test would have been to connect the bulb between the white and black wire that you were shorting. The bulb would have lit because there was potential. You could have then opened each breaker one at a time until the light went out. The breaker that caused the light to go out would identify the circuit that was backfeeding.
and then find the problem junction box with the makeup or termination mistake.don't spend an hour standing in front of the panel and go inside and find the problem branch circuit...
Thanks for watching, I tend to trace hot. I’m an old appliance technician 20 years ago, I’ve been in this field now for about 21 years. I think my videos get a lot of criticism because guys are scared to do things hot and or their company says you have to turn power off completely. I think it’s easier and you understand current and voltage better when you tracings hot to see why a device failed. I think that if you learn to trace hot with gloves on, in the long run you know why people are shocked and or electrocuted. There is a difference between electrocution and just a tingle, but I think it keeps people scared especially electricians that never learned to practice this skill. It would be similar to a mechanic not being able to hear or use other senses to diagnose the vehicle.
Lol y’all quit being bitches. I’ve been an electrician for over 20 years and you can’t be a bitch your whole life. That’s why there are those of us that get shit done and those of you that don’t. Lol. We make money. Y’all work for other people and make chicken scratch your whole life. We get to make our own schedules and y’all have to get up at the ass crack of dawn and go punch a clock everyday and take the Forman’s bullshit. Fuck that. Grow up and grow some balls.
The funny thing is is if you were to change those afci gfci breakers out to regular purpose breakers there would be no problems ever again. Lol I’ve seen it. I know it would be alright. And the fucked up thing is is you can’t do that lol. There could be static electricity causing it. It could be some appliance or plug in device that is causing it. It could be radio interference causing it. It could be a bad piece of wire. It could be a staple too tight. It could be a nail or screw just barely touching the neutral and ground somewhere. It’s a fucking needle in a hay stack.
@@alphasaiyan5760 I agree with you, you can't be a bitch your whole life. There's also a point where people stop doing risky behaviors like this and realize that although it might take longer.. odds are you'll end up going home to your family every night because statistically your performance is safer.. but then again you could die in a car wreck any day too..
You spent almost 20 minutes trying to find the breaker that was back feeding the one line, when all you had to do was turn each of the other breakers on the same phase off one at a time. Which wouldn't have even taken a minute. Instead you are arching the wires together trying to get one to trip. I can even understand trying it once but doing it a dozen times, no thank no need and not safe, you even commented how the wires were getting hot. Well, they are getting hot through the entire house on that line. How about next time you don't try to burn down the customers house.
Once you knew the breaker tripped from the backfed circuit by swapping breaker locations from circuit 6 to 8, you created a direct short from phase A to B. It would have been much faster and safer to keep the circuit isolated from the breaker like how it was in the beginning of the video and placed a circuit tracer on the wire in question OR individually turn off each breaker until the backfed circuit was de-energized. Then you just had to trace out where it's back feeding from and isolate. :) Good job thinking it through.
You could have turned power off at each breaker and then use a multi-meter in continuity mode, connect one lead to the hot wire that is back-feeding and then probe each breaker until you find the one it's connected to. - Probably the bathroom next to that bedroom, that would be my first hunch and hoping the breakers are labeled somewhat understandably. I read your comment about tracing hot, that seemed to be addressing criticism for the lack of gloves, and I agree; you are less likely to become complacent. But for quickly diagnosing, I'm quite certain working with the power off would be better and troubleshooting stepped forward quicker. Or if you REALLY want to do it hot or don't have a multi-meter (lol), flip the AFCI it was connected to - off, attach a load to that circuit, and start flipping breakers until the load actually shuts off. Posting at 10:47, not sure how you end up resolving it, but that's my thoughts thus far. Will edit this as necessary. 26:00 Epic ending.
I'm retired electrician, stop shorting wire. Ok with that said, you need what's called Amprobe current tracer. The one I used isn't made any more ( pasar-amprobe-current-tracer-5-pc-set) but they have updated model some what. I would turn off the Arc-fault breaker. I would hook the transmittter to the back feedback hot and neutral. Then use the receiver to find it's breaker. If that helps. The old unit came with a transformer to use the transmittter (120v) up to 600v lines. I used the tool to find a dead circuit in a room with all the breakers on. I would hook the transmittter to a hot from so we're and the trace the neutral (if good) back to the panel. With the breaker found , I would turn it off and then find what's not working and look nearest to the lost power spot. The transformer I used once to traced 560v from neutral to ground (Shorted secondary HID ballast 277/480v system in a 200k sqft Comm building). The best trouble shooting tool I ever used and one I would get if I got back in the trade. I saw your lights flicker video, I never found a good tool to trace under ground faults.
@@mostlikelywedoitservices9743 it's pretty simple, one of the other breakers is back feeding that circuit, if you shut down each breaker one at a time, one of them will kill the power that is back feeding the problem circuit
@@ROBMCKISSOCK I think he is trying to demonstrate that a old school breaker doesn't work that well he is shorting that circuit out and it's not tripping. This is why I always replace all my breakers every 15 years getting ready to put in AFCI here soon I'm about 15 years now on my CH panel I installed in 2004. I have always wanted to put in AFCI just too much money prices have come way down I can buy 10 of them for $300.
Kind of my thoughts. If something is crossed up inside, then add breaker loads one at a time while checking the suspect AFI circuit until you find your culprit. That narrows down what you have to open inside and inspect. But... ceiling fans are a plague where a customer was dealing with a big box store that no longer knows much about wiring. Some used to, but those days are gone. The first part of troublshooting is often a simple question: what was the last thing done to the system? Look there first, and 75% or better odds you find your problem. People will wire what's supposed to be neutral from the ceiling fan into a switched leg in a heartbeat if they don't verify wiring before taking down an older fixture.
That new GE AFCI breaker will not trip when shorting the neutral to ground. Older AFCI breakers have a form of GFCI protection in them. That's why they trip when neutrals are crossed or neutral to ground short. GE and at least one other brand have taken the GFCI part out of the AFCI breakers. They will only trip using the test button or if they (hopefully) detect an arc. You didn't have a problem with an AFCI, you simply had a backfed circuit. You didn't have to keep shorting the disconnected hot to the neutral. You could/should have used your meter or test light between the disconnected hot and neutral. Then turn off breakers until you found which one was backfeeding. When you found the backfeed, you should have stopped and went to that room and traced down where the backfeed was occuring. Most likely in a multi-gang switch box. But could be anywhere in that area/room.
That crap drove me nuts the whole video! It's just a back fed circuit! Hook your bulb up and start switching things off until the damn bulb goes off. Why the heck would you ever short things out like that? I would take this video down right now because it makes you look stupid! Sorry to be blunt!
In the Uk If its like in the the older type were GLCB ground leakage circuit breakers. The modern ones are Rccd which is monitoring the difference between phase and neutral if it monitors a difference of more than 30ma will trip in 10ms.. Then we have Rcbo which is a combined MCB miniature circuit breaker and Rccd residual current device.
EXACTLY what I said in my comment he stood in front of that panel way too long destroying expensive breakers like a dumbass because he was confused and didn't know to go inside his troubleshooting skills are mediocre at best its sad..
GE removed GFCI protection from regular AFCI breakers so they would be compatible with circuts with shared nuterals. If you buy one of their AFCI breakers now, they specifically state that you can use them with shared nuteral circuts.
I would go into the rooms of the 2 circuits and I'm sure you will find a socket where it was set up to have a switched socket where the tab connecting both plugs is not clipped. Check to see if you have 220v on the circuit that's tripping. This happened in my house and never tripped the circuit until the front dining room light was turned on when the ceiling fan was also on. Wild!
it got double tap on the same phase,thats y it doesn't trip, the Arc fault got damage, the neutral is not tile in with the original circuit, most likely in a switch box , it going to be hard to find with out the light bulb now that it is broken . can wait to see part 2.
AWESOME VIDEO!! I feel like im learning something important watching you go through all these steps. You have no idea how valuable this information is. Keep going!!
You have hot back feeding from another breaker on the opposite phase so when you put the braker in the upper slot you now have 240 volts across it and you will blow it. You need to put a voltmeter on that wire that is hot even when it is not connected to the braker and them start to turn off brakers until it goes dead. That is the braker that it is back-feeding from. Someone accidently connected that circuit to another circuit somewhere in the house. I have run into this before.
Hi Brother Peterson, you need to trace the circuit out , and find all load on the circuit. When you identify them. Disconnect one load at a time to find the fault.
I am an electrician this one is pretty easy man.. first of all stop going hot to neutral to try to flip the back feeding breaker. it's back fed off another branch circuit probably kitchen or living lighting whatever is nearest the room in question. Wire nut your light bulb to the back fed wires and start hitting other breakers till it shuts off. There you have identified your circuit in question. Now shut it off. Now hook up your toner to the trace down the backfed circuit. Look in the switch boxes that ring out on the toner. Isolate the wires turn both breakers on to find the home runs the rewire the switch boxes correctly. ALSO USE A METER! lol.. and you are wrong on your busses. Right side top breaker is Bus B.. top left bus A.. you seem knowledgeable but so green at the same time.
carbbedUp exactly he keeps stressing these breakers he’s overthinking so much here. Find the other breaker and go hunting. The troubleshooting skills in this country sucks so bad compare to what I’m watching guys in the UK do. Asco says here are way behind the level of teaching and training they get over there.
Interesting trouble-shooting technique! Thanks for sharing, especially as AFCI's are more required in 2017 and we are called out to deal with more trouble-shooting service calls!!
bro you almost melted yourself a couple times ... your leaned your elbow and arm inside the box .. careless electricians dont last long... your smart with bad safety habits
Change you bottom banner since it blocks the view and people tend to film high and often it's hard to see what you are showing. Try a transparent banner or corner banner.
Can't you just hook up your light to the back fed circuit, then shut off other breakers one at a time until your light turns off? That seems like the fastest way to figure this out.
You seem like a really nice guy. I am a industrial electrician really shocked you don’t use your gloves. Constantly being around 480 volts ac and 600 volts dc gloves are second nature as well as the other PPE that goes with it. Smock hood and suit when working on live voltage. Of course most industrial guys use rubber gloves folllowed by leather gloves over the top of them. Your gloves in other videos look like Klein work gloves not insulated gloves. Just saying be careful man because ARC Flash is real and lives have been lost over not wearing proper PPE. Good videos though not saying it to be disrespectful By any means. Like to see people stay alive in the trade.
I like this guy. He is dangerous. He has no fear. Touching wires together with his bear hands. And sparking them. Most people will get mad at my comment. That's ok. Or most electricians.
Moister is not as much as a problem here as the dip in temp from one extreme to another. One night it can be zero degrees to that day at noon up to 65 degrees. When subdivisions are installed it is up to the company. I prefer switch board load centers inside
THANKS FOR THE INFO. WHAT ARE THE GLASSES YOU ARE WEARING.... SAFETY? HAVE YOU FOUND ARC-GRD FAULT TESTER FOR RECEPTACLES THAT WORK FOR MOST MANUFACTURERS? THANKS
Love ya, dude, but this video would be half as long and involve has the fiddling around with a multimeter. Oh, and multimeters aren't glass so they don't shatter when you bump them.
You can use a clamp amp meter around the romex to find these breakers that are tied in and tripping the arc fault breakers. All the breakers should have equal current going out and back and so the current should be zero around the hot and neutral. If it's not and you are getting a net current then somewhere the neutrals are tied together from different branch circuits. It's easy to find with this method. You can also use a gaussmeter to test magnetic fields in the house and turn on loads, even light switches to find these.
Thanks, I have not heard of a gaussmeter. Where would you get one? As far as the current, your probably correct, although with this circuit, it would not stay on long enough to test it, dead short.
@@Petersonelectricllc As long as the circuits are on you will be able to find the net current. Even 0.1 or 0.2 amps. I use a little Triplett clamp on meter. It will be a much bigger difference with a load but you can detect it on the Romex if the breaker is simply on with that method. Check out this book. I think it could help immensely with finding these issues. amzn.to/329sAVr If you are interested I am actually going to need an experienced electrician in Colorado who can trace and fix complicated issues like these. Here's a link to an affordable triple axis digital readout gaussmeter amzn.to/2H6Lumt
Shared neutral from another phase. The problems somewhere else in the house. Better hope there weren't any sensitive electronics on that circuit cuz they're gone
You can tell this is testing your patience! Friend of mine called me today with no power to some of his 120 volt outlets! He extended drop cords to his fridge & freezer (120 volts)! I check his 120 volt outlets…. He has 235-245 volts at them now!!!!!!!?!?!?! I check the panel box! 2 big black wires 235-245 volts! Normal! Check neutral to one black side 235-245 volts! Check other black & neutral(white wire).. zero volts! Checked outside shut off switch …. I get neutral & black 120 volts on both sides with neutral!(coming after the meter) Turn the switch on… on secondary side of the switch…. Get the weird electrical readings again! Never seen anything like it! I suspect the shut off switch outside by the meter is the problem! Or inside the meter !? Next door neighbors ok! (So no transformer problem at the telephone pole!?😮
Thanks for sharing, but careless actions can be deadly. Working live, no EWP, no PPE, intentionally heating the wires, and standing in front of the breakers while tripping them. It only takes one mistake. God bless.
It is good to show you the point of the video. Beside, tacking Hot is typically a better way. Shorting our was to prove the tripping of breakers. Usually i wear gloves
y'all should put your advertising banner to where it fills 90% of the screen. Then we will know the/your company is dominate in the field without doubt.
45 years of wiring household single phase and industrial 3 phase, and I never would think of an old socket and bulb for testing. They make meters for this, some may know. Then to flash a hot to a neutral? Hello? Funny thing is I NEVER in all those years had a circuit back feeding on me. Is this because some dope got into a box on a rework and crossed 2 hots? Wouldn't the error be noted the moment the circuit was fired up?
breakers outside must be cheaper overall install-wise? (purely speculation) i know this gets done in texas a lot too. its absolute BS to me tho. now you have to lock the panelboard to prevent tampering.
Props for troubleshooting live, in action! I don't understand his explanation of how an AFCI works. An AFCI senses *arcing* A 'Combination' AFCI senses arcing between conductors AND over a break, or gap, in one conductor. A 'Dual Function' AFCI/GCFI has both capabilities At 5:44 he means 'neutral' when he says "this guy" and :he".
So you’re causing an intentional short to find if a neutral is tied through on an AFCI? Do I have that correct. Just disconnect the neutral from the AFCI and continuity test the disconnected neutral back to the neutral bar, if there is a neutral tied through it’ll tone.
Hey man . the circuit is either double feed or short with other circuit. What u need to do is turn off one breaker than test for short. After u found out then trouble shoot for the short location. I am the electrician for 26 years. Ask home owner if any one have done any electrical work lately?.
Thanks, this would work with power off assuming I could find it in three bedrooms and a master with a huge walk in closet and bath and baby cry room overflow area. I like starting at the breaker. Nice tip though.
I have watched about 1/3 of the video and I'm thinking, you found the backfeed, great, now switch each breaker off until you no longer measure 120 or 240, whichever the backfeed voltage. Now you know where to look when you hook up your tracer and trace the backfeed connection.
No fuses behind the meter, just a main disconnect and the branch circuit breakers. We did not blow the main because they were AFCI and the panel is newer.
Thanks! And what spend hours figuring out which way the circuit traces and I would be reading through every light bulb and plugged in item through the meet, and not to mention the Dimmers that are wired. No thanks
How do you kill power to the whole circuit box pull out the actual meter glass and all? Any considerations when reinstalling it like turn on the breakers one by one so there is no load when plugging it back in?
Wondering if anyone ever got into a house where cats pissed into every outlet they could reach? I had a demented renter that had 30 cats and also left open the main interior panel door - with a table next to it. Had not been in there for years. When she called to complain about my poor wiring job, I went in and nearly puked when I got to the panel - yellow, dried greasy, stinking piss oil filled every breaker and terminal. Looked like the panel on a sunken salt water ship. Worst thing I ever had to repair - and 2 years later, new faults keep showing up. Cat piss eats the copper wire until it actually just takes a 12 gauge wire down to a 20, and then it arcs and melts. Amazing the house didn't burn. Some Days I wish it did.
You know when dealing with ppl who work with electricity you can almost always rely that they are smart. It's just common sense. Yet it is so uncommon.
If the nuetral is hot it probably got tied in on another circuits hot so maybe try a continuity test with the other circuits hots and see where it became hot
I called Cutler hammer they told me BR &CH are set at 650 amps for magnetic trip .I HAVE A PAMPHLET FROM SQUARE D THAT SAYS 15 & 20 A QO [QUICK OPEN] BREAKERS ARE SET AT 150 -200 AMPS FOR MAGNETIC TRIP .YOU WONDER WHY I LIKE SQUARE D SO MUCH.[THIS HELPS PREVENT FIRES] On FPE on their sp 15 & 20 I TOUCHED A HOT AND NEUTRAL TOGETHER AT A MODERATE SPEED .THE WIRES BECAME WARM AND IT BLEW RIGHT THROUGH THE WIRES [two peaces laying on the floor] I DID THIS THREE TIMES BEFORE THE BREAKER TRIPPED .Than i did it at a slower speed as an arcing short THE INSULATION BURST INTO FLAMES AT THE ENDS OF THE WIRES .THIS IS WHY I HELPED PUT THESE BASTARDS OUT OF BUSINESS. I did this experiment WITH EVERY BRAND BEFORE CHOOSING THE PANEL FOR MY PARENTS HOUSE WHICH IS A QO. You can BLOW THROUGH THE WIRES WITH FPE, older CHALLENGER ,20A WADSWORTH and probably other older breakers. I touched a hot and neut together with CH ,BR & CH THE WIRES BECAME WARM ,I DONT LIKE CUTLER HAMMER [I DONT WANT GRANDMA DRIVING MY MAGNETIC TRIP] I want QUICK INSTANTANEOUS TRIPS IF A SHORT OCCURS.
If you disconnect the neutral and hot off that breaker again put a tick tester on the neutral go through each breaker until the neutral stops being hot , that’s The other circuit that’s back feeling on a neutral
You didn't show the bulb at the end?? Nice explaining but you found the problem and you kept going. If your hand is in the panel your face needs to be looking at what you are doing not the camera. Arcing the wire over and over till it is hot is VERY UNSAFE, use a meter and flip the breakers. Did you reimburse the customer for seeing how fast you can get the meter to go? You seem like a nice guy get the safety basics learned before you lose a finger or worse.
spyderx92 they're not going to protect your eyes from arc flash, they may be UV resistant but I think he's just using them to filter light to be able to see better
I bet someone did some work in that place and mistakenly tied the two circuits together. I would have taken my volt meter tied it to the hot black wire then turned off the other breakers one by one to see which one fed the wire.
I am confused at 8:02 - with what you are doing, under what conditions would ever cause any of those breakers to trip? The added load of the bulb?? What is the point of that test?
Cutler hammer=650 amps fore magnetic trip GE wafers seem to be high also FPE is the worst you can arc weld .I like SQUARE D QO 150-200 amp instant trip if on a budget SIEMENS COPPER BUSS . Im in the process of running a 70 foot 100 amp run to my friends huge attached garage [who works on cars] ,1 1/4 EMT, bonding bushings at each panel,duct seal at subpanel no 3 VIBRANT RED ,WHITE,BLUE no 8 green to a 24 main breaker SQUARE D QO PANEL floating neutral ,separate GROUND BAR .Each home run is going to be 3/4 EMT going to an 2 1/8 11B box with gavin covers with 20 amp tr gfi then 3/4 & 1/2 EMT to 2 1/8 deep 1900 boxes with garvins load sided tr 20 amp duplexes. One home run will have two 20 a outlet circuits plus a circuit fore the heater [theirs room fore a car lift circuit in the future]. The next home will have two circuits [room fore future 240 v compressor]. The third one 20 a circuit. A separate 50 amp welding outlet under panel in a deep 1900 w no 8 ground .EACH MULTIWIRE CIRCUIT WILL HAVE BREAKER HANDLE TIES. Im really thinking about putting the heater on a gfi. My friend is getting 5 20 amp outlet circuits ,15 a heater circuit & a 50 amp no 8 welding outlet. In the future a 15 amp gfi lighting circuit. ALL WIRES IN THE PANEL WILL BE A VIBRANT RED,WHITE,BLUE & GREEN.I told my friend to leave the breaker OFF fore the welding outlet unless hes using it [A KID STICKING A KEY IN THE OUTLET] .The town im working in is on the 2005 nec.Im really enjoying myself again i just love doing this when i can but am limited physically [shoulder] The 2020 nec will require the main disconnect be on the outside and a placard saying emergency responders [I recommend a small all brass padlock] , all 240 volt stuff in a garage be gfi ,all 240 volt 15 & 20 amp outlets be tamper proof .I dont see 240 volt single outlets tr yet in the stores. Id like to see 30,50 amp outlets have an option to be tamper resistant.
I see that you are running some runs too small. I would only run copper, even in my underground. Bond bushings not needed. Branch circuits need to be upsized and separately ran neutrals. GFCI should be wet proof in a garage that could be sprayed down. If there is wood work or painting then this all changes with compression type fittings and sealing Bell boxes. If bell boxes are used then the box volume goes way down and larger boxes in the ceilings need to be used with more branches spidering down from the ceiling. Then most of all the service has to be inclosed in it's own room if painting or wood shop is present, even if there is a HINT that they spoke this, they will always BEND THEIR TRUTH to you and want you to do it for cheaper, mostly friends and family. Do it safe and do it right. Don't forget your two 8' rods and if you have water , it's bond. Also, UFER. if you guys have a sump for changing oil in the ground then you have to follow the Hazardous chapter 5 section, I """" THINK"""" it's class one division two. Make sure he does not store any small plains.BTY, why share neutrals with general circuits, and why not run DF breakers. Also, if you are running a disconnect, why not some FRN's with a slow blow. And if 90 amps is ok to the building then use TC tray cable. If not, then THWN-2. Don't forget VD, under a load. 210.19. FPN. Lastly, underground PVC with bends created by heat boxes and no prefab 90's and your slip sleeves, 300 and 300.5, for depth.
@@Petersonelectricllc This is an attached residential garage the walls are all drywall ,if they spray they will damage the walls .I have the GFI protected outlets about 47 inches high. The 100 amp feed is no 3 copper [come of you know ALUMINUM is a valgar to me] with a no 8 equipment grounding wire BONDING BUSHINGS ARE REQUIRED on the 1 1/4 in EMT run from the main 200 A panel to the subpanel, KNOCK OUTS ARE CONCENTRIC at both ends of the 1 1/4 in EMT.I put a 100 amp breaker in the main panel .Subpanel will have a floating neutral & separate grounding bar. In the main panel i put a grounding bar and ran a solid no 2 to the neutral bar,when they upgrade to 400 amp alls they have to do is remove the no 2 jumper because the disconnects will be outside. The only shared neutrals are in the home runs when it hits that first box with the two gfi outlets every thing is load sided and separate neutrals .You can still use multiwire circuits AS LONG AS YOU HANDLE TIE THE BREAKERS .I can see this in your video. I helped wire this house in 1988 the whole place is done in multiwire circuits.
YES< for the 10,000 time, I do not have control over most of the COLORADO thoughts on why panels are installed outside. If I can avoid it I install mine inside, unless there is no space on any interior walls or there are rooms explained in article 230 and 240 on where not to install them.
TRUMP FORCEONE There was a three wire multi conductor cable running to the master from the bathroom and overflow area. It had two circuits feeding the master, bathroom and nursery. They connected the two hots together instead of separating it at the main switch as you walked into the bedroom.
How over loaded is that panel with all 1/2 breakers, man, what a setup....I have a 200A panel, and so i don't need 1/2 breakers, plus I use 3 ckts just for my stereo
it would not trip for his test. but blowing it over and over and heating up the bus is not the best way. Look if they have a 3 way switch in the area with light switch to the 2 areas. That or back to back outlets on same wall. The light bulb tripped at the end or committed suicide, you have to keep the glass solid for the little light fairies to not get out.
I have Never promoted for you tubers to do their own electrical work. I have NO IDEA who is qualified with skills or licensed to work on electrical. It is everyone’s “OWN” risk and responsibility to take their skills or practices to learn to be better. We use many methods to test circuits. Not sure why YOU are scared to test things hot and see why circuits fail. This is why your struggling. If you use Volts, ohms, lamps, heaters, meters, etc... you will understand things on a newer level. Not sure why your watching us
First things foremost. Be safe. Don't get electrocuted or shocked or cause a fire. Play with electricity only with someone around so they can videotape ignorance and naivete as an example of Darwinism in Action. Know where the main circuit breaker is in case your wires weld together, the branch circuit breaker fails closed, you hear humming, and smoke starts pouring out of your load center/panel. In North America the search keywords are Pigtail Lamp Holder Temporary String Light Socket E26 Medium base Edison Screw (MES) . Use solid 10 AWG, 12 AWG or 14 AWG with Wire Nuts for your test leads because it won't wobble around like stranded wire. Although the bright glowing light is a quick indicator when videotaping outside in the sun wearing yellow Bono sunglasses, this ghetto hillbilly peckerwood “Tool” sucks if you drop it and then have to vacuum up broken shards of glass at your customer's home. Use a durable plastic shatter resistant A19-shaped LED bulb. Better yet, use a decent inexpensive volt meter such as Klein Tools ET60 or ET250. To prevent sparks landing near flammables/combustibles use a pigtail from a single gang handy box with a light switch and faceplate screwed into a terminal or wire nutted for short circuit testing of overcurrent protection devices: dual function circuit breakers, AFCIs, GFCIs, CAFCIs, fuses, relay/contactors. This would, however, take more time than simply rubbing wires together.
Also his testing bulb breaks at the end of the video. I’m not an electrician but he seems very nonchalant with his ungloved hands around the live neutral. This will make some DIYer think they can do this kind of tracing without getting hurt. Call a pro that’s why they have a license.
Lol You would like to have a tasting breaker. Would you add that to your multi light bulb. Its seems to have been re calibrated with floor. Lol Sorry sorry lol 13 years and a light bulb is your tester. Do you show your customer your home made tools? Sorry bro but your video should have safety on. Your giving a video that looks like a how to. But it's unsafe. Your putting your hands and tools in like it's nothing. Could make your followers think that and get pinched doing that. Or weld there wires like you show as your test. I'd like to say you do say some good points. Keep up good work but for viewers safety. Mention what not to do And safe ways in doing it
Liked and subscribed, but you need to move your advertising banner as it blocks over 80% of what you are showing. Move it to the top as your mug has nothing to do with electricity, or make the banner smaller and drop it to the bottom. Next, 60 cycles (Hz) crosses the zero voltage from positive peak and from negative peak 120 times per second. Do not mention 3 phase when you are working on a single phase system as it will blow your audience away; unless, you get a dry erase board and draw the phases and do the math; else, do not mention it. The part that I am curious is how do you overload the neutral bar? It is designed to take the line current of either 100A, or on average 200A. Numbers do not lie, but you can lie with numbers and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. Great video, clear and never too long as it can save lives. Lastly, never apologize, it shows a sign of weakness. Just correct the concern and finish with the comment There! and throw your hands in the air and smile. Take care and be safe. FJB Out!
Show me an arc fault circuit that draws over 4 amps and i wont ask you to install low voltage circuits to meet outlet spacing requirements in living quarters. Vacum and ceiling lights/fans require 120 volt ac circuits. LED could run on low voltage DC. 5 amp max fused low voltage branch circuits off the vacinity transformer to meet non dedicated receptacle requirements. Use de-rated aluminum or copper conductors. Adopt a standard over all living quarter devices to adhere to low volt ac or low volt dc. Make the equipment ground mean something again with higher quality appliances made from metal for Kitchens bathrooms and garages. Ground fault circuit interupters and equipment grounds save lives. Arc faults raise insurance rates
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You need to have your website /logo vanish after awhile so we can see the entire screen. Half of what you were showing was un viewable.
HouseImprovements you like the light bolt tester
OMG, YES! It was covering the panel most of the time, hard to see :(
That’s right Peterson, if Shannon says something you’d better listen.
ALL of your videos are VERY low in the audio!
Also, why bring up 3 phase???? WHY do most, if not ALL electricians call 120/240 L1/l2 phases??? it is NOT phase, it is LINE 1 and LINE 2. They are 180 degrees out, NOT 120 degrees.
Yes please have the logo vanished after a while. The volume on most of your videos is too low I want to here what you have to say please relocate mike closer to you.... I really like your videos and your attitude but its a struggle to here you most of the time
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I have been an electrician for about six years, I'm still learning at this point, there are a lot of electricians out there and every one of them has their own ideas and way of troubleshooting and wiring. Your effort is greatly appreciated.
Don't ever stop learning. Or you become stupid and stuck in old ways and running around like you really know something. Keep learning till your dead.
A safer test would have been to connect the bulb between the white and black wire that you were shorting. The bulb would have lit because there was potential. You could have then opened each breaker one at a time until the light went out. The breaker that caused the light to go out would identify the circuit that was backfeeding.
Dennis Rindlisbach thank u can u make a videos?
He broke the bulb
Dennis Rindlisbach nice.
Was thinking the same thing throughout the whole video except use a multimeter
and then find the problem junction box with the makeup or termination mistake.don't spend an hour standing in front of the panel and go inside and find the problem branch circuit...
Thanks for watching, I tend to trace hot. I’m an old appliance technician 20 years ago, I’ve been in this field now for about 21 years. I think my videos get a lot of criticism because guys are scared to do things hot and or their company says you have to turn power off completely. I think it’s easier and you understand current and voltage better when you tracings hot to see why a device failed.
I think that if you learn to trace hot with gloves on, in the long run you know why people are shocked and or electrocuted. There is a difference between electrocution and just a tingle, but I think it keeps people scared especially electricians that never learned to practice this skill. It would be similar to a mechanic not being able to hear or use other senses to diagnose the vehicle.
If only your insurance company knew...
Lol y’all quit being bitches. I’ve been an electrician for over 20 years and you can’t be a bitch your whole life. That’s why
there are those of us that get shit done and those of you that don’t. Lol. We make money. Y’all work for other people and make chicken scratch your whole life. We get to make our own schedules and y’all have to get up at the ass crack of dawn and go punch a clock everyday and take the Forman’s bullshit. Fuck that. Grow up and grow some balls.
The funny thing is is if you were to change those afci gfci breakers out to regular purpose breakers there would be no problems ever again. Lol I’ve seen it. I know it would be alright. And the fucked up thing is is you can’t do that lol. There could be static electricity causing it. It could be some appliance or plug in device that is causing it. It could be radio interference causing it. It could be a bad piece of wire. It could be a staple too tight. It could be a nail or screw just barely touching the neutral and ground somewhere. It’s a fucking needle in a hay stack.
@@alphasaiyan5760 I agree with you, you can't be a bitch your whole life. There's also a point where people stop doing risky behaviors like this and realize that although it might take longer.. odds are you'll end up going home to your family every night because statistically your performance is safer.. but then again you could die in a car wreck any day too..
Your skin is a good insulator until it isn't and your body is a very good conductor of electricity. It takes as little as 500 mA to stop your heart.
I’ve been in the field for 21 years and a master for 14 yrs.
But just still a student every day.
this is old but given your experience a simple wiggins test or multimeter. A circuit tracer of quality makes quick work of finding these faults.
Me to.
You spent almost 20 minutes trying to find the breaker that was back feeding the one line, when all you had to do was turn each of the other breakers on the same phase off one at a time. Which wouldn't have even taken a minute. Instead you are arching the wires together trying to get one to trip. I can even understand trying it once but doing it a dozen times, no thank no need and not safe, you even commented how the wires were getting hot. Well, they are getting hot through the entire house on that line. How about next time you don't try to burn down the customers house.
Once you knew the breaker tripped from the backfed circuit by swapping breaker locations from circuit 6 to 8, you created a direct short from phase A to B. It would have been much faster and safer to keep the circuit isolated from the breaker like how it was in the beginning of the video and placed a circuit tracer on the wire in question OR individually turn off each breaker until the backfed circuit was de-energized. Then you just had to trace out where it's back feeding from and isolate. :) Good job thinking it through.
You could have turned power off at each breaker and then use a multi-meter in continuity mode, connect one lead to the hot wire that is back-feeding and then probe each breaker until you find the one it's connected to. - Probably the bathroom next to that bedroom, that would be my first hunch and hoping the breakers are labeled somewhat understandably.
I read your comment about tracing hot, that seemed to be addressing criticism for the lack of gloves, and I agree; you are less likely to become complacent. But for quickly diagnosing, I'm quite certain working with the power off would be better and troubleshooting stepped forward quicker.
Or if you REALLY want to do it hot or don't have a multi-meter (lol), flip the AFCI it was connected to - off, attach a load to that circuit, and start flipping breakers until the load actually shuts off.
Posting at 10:47, not sure how you end up resolving it, but that's my thoughts thus far. Will edit this as necessary.
26:00 Epic ending.
I'm retired electrician, stop shorting wire. Ok with that said, you need what's called Amprobe current tracer. The one I used isn't made any more ( pasar-amprobe-current-tracer-5-pc-set) but they have updated model some what. I would turn off the Arc-fault breaker. I would hook the transmittter to the back feedback hot and neutral. Then use the receiver to find it's breaker. If that helps. The old unit came with a transformer to use the transmittter (120v) up to 600v lines. I used the tool to find a dead circuit in a room with all the breakers on. I would hook the transmittter to a hot from so we're and the trace the neutral (if good) back to the panel. With the breaker found , I would turn it off and then find what's not working and look nearest to the lost power spot. The transformer I used once to traced 560v from neutral to ground (Shorted secondary HID ballast 277/480v system in a 200k sqft Comm building). The best trouble shooting tool I ever used and one I would get if I got back in the trade. I saw your lights flicker video, I never found a good tool to trace under ground faults.
Take a meter and shut of each breaker one at a time to see what circuits are doubled up.... not melting the system
could you please explain what doubled up means. What would you see on the meter? How do you do what you're talking about?
@@mostlikelywedoitservices9743 it's pretty simple, one of the other breakers is back feeding that circuit, if you shut down each breaker one at a time, one of them will kill the power that is back feeding the problem circuit
@@ROBMCKISSOCK I think he is trying to demonstrate that a old school breaker doesn't work that well he is shorting that circuit out and it's not tripping. This is why I always replace all my breakers every 15 years getting ready to put in AFCI here soon I'm about 15 years now on my CH panel I installed in 2004. I have always wanted to put in AFCI just too much money prices have come way down I can buy 10 of them for $300.
Kind of my thoughts. If something is crossed up inside, then add breaker loads one at a time while checking the suspect AFI circuit until you find your culprit. That narrows down what you have to open inside and inspect. But... ceiling fans are a plague where a customer was dealing with a big box store that no longer knows much about wiring. Some used to, but those days are gone. The first part of troublshooting is often a simple question: what was the last thing done to the system? Look there first, and 75% or better odds you find your problem. People will wire what's supposed to be neutral from the ceiling fan into a switched leg in a heartbeat if they don't verify wiring before taking down an older fixture.
That new GE AFCI breaker will not trip when shorting the neutral to ground. Older AFCI breakers have a form of GFCI protection in them. That's why they trip when neutrals are crossed or neutral to ground short. GE and at least one other brand have taken the GFCI part out of the AFCI breakers. They will only trip using the test button or if they (hopefully) detect an arc.
You didn't have a problem with an AFCI, you simply had a backfed circuit. You didn't have to keep shorting the disconnected hot to the neutral. You could/should have used your meter or test light between the disconnected hot and neutral. Then turn off breakers until you found which one was backfeeding.
When you found the backfeed, you should have stopped and went to that room and traced down where the backfeed was occuring. Most likely in a multi-gang switch box. But could be anywhere in that area/room.
That crap drove me nuts the whole video! It's just a back fed circuit! Hook your bulb up and start switching things off until the damn bulb goes off. Why the heck would you ever short things out like that? I would take this video down right now because it makes you look stupid! Sorry to be blunt!
In the Uk If its like in the the older type were GLCB ground leakage circuit breakers. The modern ones are Rccd which is monitoring the difference between phase and neutral if it monitors a difference of more than 30ma will trip in 10ms.. Then we have Rcbo which is a combined MCB miniature circuit breaker and Rccd residual current device.
EXACTLY what I said in my comment he stood in front of that panel way too long destroying expensive breakers like a dumbass because he was confused and didn't know to go inside his troubleshooting skills are mediocre at best its sad..
GE removed GFCI protection from regular AFCI breakers so they would be compatible with circuts with shared nuterals. If you buy one of their AFCI breakers now, they specifically state that you can use them with shared nuteral circuts.
I would go into the rooms of the 2 circuits and I'm sure you will find a socket where it was set up to have a switched socket where the tab connecting both plugs is not clipped. Check to see if you have 220v on the circuit that's tripping. This happened in my house and never tripped the circuit until the front dining room light was turned on when the ceiling fan was also on. Wild!
it got double tap on the same phase,thats y it doesn't trip, the Arc fault got damage, the neutral is not tile in with the original circuit, most likely in a switch box , it going to be hard to find with out the light bulb now that it is broken . can wait to see part 2.
AWESOME VIDEO!! I feel like im learning something important watching you go through all these steps. You have no idea how valuable this information is. Keep going!!
Thank you,, at least some followers are nice!
You have hot back feeding from another breaker on the opposite phase so when you put the braker in the upper slot you now have 240 volts across it and you will blow it. You need to put a voltmeter on that wire that is hot even when it is not connected to the braker and them start to turn off brakers until it goes dead. That is the braker that it is back-feeding from. Someone accidently connected that circuit to another circuit somewhere in the house. I have run into this before.
Why didnt you put volt meter to the "hot netural" to ground and just cut off breakers one at a time until you were no longer hot???
Timothy Moore Exactly, To me he was doing stuff quite backwards, plus he’s stressing those breakers every time he does that
man, this is all so educational, thank you to peterson electric and to some of your guys' comments
Hi Brother Peterson, you need to trace the circuit out , and find all load on the circuit. When you identify them. Disconnect one load at a time to find the fault.
I am an electrician this one is pretty easy man.. first of all stop going hot to neutral to try to flip the back feeding breaker. it's back fed off another branch circuit probably kitchen or living lighting whatever is nearest the room in question. Wire nut your light bulb to the back fed wires and start hitting other breakers till it shuts off. There you have identified your circuit in question. Now shut it off. Now hook up your toner to the trace down the backfed circuit. Look in the switch boxes that ring out on the toner. Isolate the wires turn both breakers on to find the home runs the rewire the switch boxes correctly. ALSO USE A METER! lol.. and you are wrong on your busses. Right side top breaker is Bus B.. top left bus A.. you seem knowledgeable but so green at the same time.
carbbedUp exactly he keeps stressing these breakers he’s overthinking so much here. Find the other breaker and go hunting. The troubleshooting skills in this country sucks so bad compare to what I’m watching guys in the UK do. Asco says here are way behind the level of teaching and training they get over there.
Interesting trouble-shooting technique! Thanks for sharing, especially as AFCI's are more required in 2017 and we are called out to deal with more trouble-shooting service calls!!
Big Respect to Petersonelectric best videos on TH-cam. Changing the game
Turn each breaker off one at the time until you don’t have voltage across the neutral and hot wire... go trouble shoot inside the house.
LOL at the end where the bulb shatters. Cut that... Cameraguy: I don't know how
Sense I’m a professional homeowner I feel after watching this I believe I can tackle any electrical problems now .
you give NEW ENERGY to the term "sparky!"
I'm really surprised your insurance company hasn't shut you down
bro you almost melted yourself a couple times ... your leaned your elbow and arm inside the box .. careless electricians dont last long... your smart with bad safety habits
Change you bottom banner since it blocks the view and people tend to film high and often it's hard to see what you are showing. Try a transparent banner or corner banner.
Can't you just hook up your light to the back fed circuit, then shut off other breakers one at a time until your light turns off? That seems like the fastest way to figure this out.
That is what I would have done multibranch circuit
You seem like a really nice guy. I am a industrial electrician really shocked you don’t use your gloves. Constantly being around 480 volts ac and 600 volts dc gloves are second nature as well as the other PPE that goes with it. Smock hood and suit when working on live voltage. Of course most industrial guys use rubber gloves folllowed by leather gloves over the top of them. Your gloves in other videos look like Klein work gloves not insulated gloves. Just saying be careful man because ARC Flash is real and lives have been lost over not wearing proper PPE. Good videos though not saying it to be disrespectful By any means. Like to see people stay alive in the trade.
I switched out all of my arc breakers to the older standard ones as the arc breakers would trip all the time. The tv or vacuum would trip it
I like this guy. He is dangerous. He has no fear. Touching wires together with his bear hands. And sparking them. Most people will get mad at my comment. That's ok. Or most electricians.
I HAVE STARTED PRACTICING SAFER STANDARDS, THIS VIDEO IS NINE YEARS OLD.
No worries. I liked the video.
Moister is not as much as a problem here as the dip in temp from one extreme to another. One night it can be zero degrees to that day at noon up to 65 degrees. When subdivisions are installed it is up to the company. I prefer switch board load centers inside
THANKS FOR THE INFO. WHAT ARE THE GLASSES YOU ARE WEARING.... SAFETY?
HAVE YOU FOUND ARC-GRD FAULT TESTER FOR RECEPTACLES THAT WORK FOR MOST MANUFACTURERS?
THANKS
Will someone please get this man a multimeter?!
Love ya, dude, but this video would be half as long and involve has the fiddling around with a multimeter. Oh, and multimeters aren't glass so they don't shatter when you bump them.
You can use a clamp amp meter around the romex to find these breakers that are tied in and tripping the arc fault breakers. All the breakers should have equal current going out and back and so the current should be zero around the hot and neutral. If it's not and you are getting a net current then somewhere the neutrals are tied together from different branch circuits. It's easy to find with this method.
You can also use a gaussmeter to test magnetic fields in the house and turn on loads, even light switches to find these.
Thanks, I have not heard of a gaussmeter. Where would you get one?
As far as the current, your probably correct, although with this circuit, it would not stay on long enough to test it, dead short.
@@Petersonelectricllc As long as the circuits are on you will be able to find the net current. Even 0.1 or 0.2 amps. I use a little Triplett clamp on meter. It will be a much bigger difference with a load but you can detect it on the Romex if the breaker is simply on with that method.
Check out this book. I think it could help immensely with finding these issues.
amzn.to/329sAVr
If you are interested I am actually going to need an experienced electrician in Colorado who can trace and fix complicated issues like these.
Here's a link to an affordable triple axis digital readout gaussmeter amzn.to/2H6Lumt
Shared neutral from another phase. The problems somewhere else in the house. Better hope there weren't any sensitive electronics on that circuit cuz they're gone
Doh, there went your light bulb. Also, good choice on having that the end point.
You can tell this is testing your patience! Friend of mine called me today with no power to some of his 120 volt outlets!
He extended drop cords to his fridge & freezer (120 volts)! I check his 120 volt outlets…. He has 235-245 volts at them now!!!!!!!?!?!?! I check the panel box! 2 big black wires 235-245 volts! Normal! Check neutral to one black side 235-245 volts! Check other black & neutral(white wire).. zero volts!
Checked outside shut off switch …. I get neutral & black 120 volts on both sides with neutral!(coming after the meter)
Turn the switch on… on secondary side of the switch…. Get the weird electrical readings again!
Never seen anything like it! I suspect the shut off switch outside by the meter is the problem! Or inside the meter !? Next door neighbors ok! (So no transformer problem at the telephone pole!?😮
Thanks for sharing, but careless actions can be deadly. Working live, no EWP, no PPE, intentionally heating the wires, and standing in front of the breakers while tripping them. It only takes one mistake. God bless.
It is good to show you the point of the video. Beside, tacking Hot is typically a better way. Shorting our was to prove the tripping of breakers. Usually i wear gloves
How about a finishing up of this video with the flickering light problem and a cure for it if you were involved
I really like those glasses you’re wearing!! Are they Specifically designed so you don’t electrocute your eyes?
y'all should put your advertising banner to where it fills 90% of the screen. Then we will know the/your company is dominate in the field without doubt.
45 years of wiring household single phase and industrial 3 phase, and I never would think of an old socket and bulb for testing. They make meters for this, some may know. Then to flash a hot to a neutral? Hello? Funny thing is I NEVER in all those years had a circuit back feeding on me. Is this because some dope got into a box on a rework and crossed 2 hots? Wouldn't the error be noted the moment the circuit was fired up?
IT'S A NEW METHOD TO YOU AS AN OLD TIMER.
@@Petersonelectricllc Yah, still doing knob and tube here. Easy to trouble shoot
totally agree !
Good video. Seems so strange to see the service panel installed outside. That is something we just don't do in Ohio. Moisture would be a problem here.
Does chasing your tail mean anything to you?
breakers outside must be cheaper overall install-wise? (purely speculation) i know this gets done in texas a lot too. its absolute BS to me tho. now you have to lock the panelboard to prevent tampering.
i wonder if its a bldg code thing. we never do it in NY. i know in texas its a common practice.
I dislike trouble shooting arc fault breakers.
Sometimes finding the arc is looking for a needle in a haystack
Props for troubleshooting live, in action! I don't understand his explanation of how an AFCI works. An AFCI senses *arcing*
A 'Combination' AFCI senses arcing between conductors AND over a break, or gap, in one conductor.
A 'Dual Function' AFCI/GCFI has both capabilities
At 5:44 he means 'neutral' when he says "this guy" and :he".
Great knowledge you have , just a lack of Montage
So you’re causing an intentional short to find if a neutral is tied through on an AFCI? Do I have that correct. Just disconnect the neutral from the AFCI and continuity test the disconnected neutral back to the neutral bar, if there is a neutral tied through it’ll tone.
Would like to see the breaker on the left but you never too down the banner!
Thanks for your advice!
Hey man . the circuit is either double feed or short with other circuit. What u need to do is turn off one breaker than test for short. After u found out then trouble shoot for the short location. I am the electrician for 26 years. Ask home owner if any one have done any electrical work lately?.
Thanks, this would work with power off assuming I could find it in three bedrooms and a master with a huge walk in closet and bath and baby cry room overflow area.
I like starting at the breaker. Nice tip though.
Thanks, appreciate your real concern. I’m in God’s hands , and you?
I'm in gods nose.
why didn't you just troubleshoot the problem circuit that's backfeeding through an arc fault breaker circuit?
I didn't know we where in Philadelphia working on old 2 phase power...
2 phase power is in most homes in the US>
I have watched about 1/3 of the video and I'm thinking, you found the backfeed, great, now switch each breaker off until you no longer measure 120 or 240, whichever the backfeed voltage. Now you know where to look when you hook up your tracer and trace the backfeed connection.
No fuses behind the meter, just a main disconnect and the branch circuit breakers. We did not blow the main because they were AFCI and the panel is newer.
Thanks! And what spend hours figuring out which way the circuit traces and I would be reading through every light bulb and plugged in item through the meet, and not to mention the Dimmers that are wired.
No thanks
How do you kill power to the whole circuit box pull out the actual meter glass and all? Any considerations when reinstalling it like turn on the breakers one by one so there is no load when plugging it back in?
Turn off main breaker (on top).
Very professional
Thank you/
yeah this guys troubleshooting skills are terrible
Wondering if anyone ever got into a house where cats pissed into every outlet they could reach? I had a demented renter that had 30 cats and also left open the main interior panel door - with a table next to it. Had not been in there for years. When she called to complain about my poor wiring job, I went in and nearly puked when I got to the panel - yellow, dried greasy, stinking piss oil filled every breaker and terminal. Looked like the panel on a sunken salt water ship. Worst thing I ever had to repair - and 2 years later, new faults keep showing up. Cat piss eats the copper wire until it actually just takes a 12 gauge wire down to a 20, and then it arcs and melts. Amazing the house didn't burn. Some Days I wish it did.
THANKS FOR SHARING.
We have deleted the logo since this video, thanks for watching
You know when dealing with ppl who work with electricity you can almost always rely that they are smart. It's just common sense. Yet it is so uncommon.
So no arc flash gear in the panel ?
No insulated screwdriver either.
If the nuetral is hot it probably got tied in on another circuits hot so maybe try a continuity test with the other circuits hots and see where it became hot
Just have to get power off first😕
I called Cutler hammer they told me BR &CH are set at 650 amps for magnetic trip .I HAVE A PAMPHLET FROM SQUARE D THAT SAYS 15 & 20 A QO [QUICK OPEN] BREAKERS ARE SET AT 150 -200 AMPS FOR MAGNETIC TRIP .YOU WONDER WHY I LIKE SQUARE D SO MUCH.[THIS HELPS PREVENT FIRES]
On FPE on their sp 15 & 20 I TOUCHED A HOT AND NEUTRAL TOGETHER AT A MODERATE SPEED .THE WIRES BECAME WARM AND IT BLEW RIGHT THROUGH THE WIRES [two peaces laying on the floor] I DID THIS THREE TIMES BEFORE THE BREAKER TRIPPED .Than i did it at a slower speed as an arcing short THE INSULATION BURST INTO FLAMES AT THE ENDS OF THE WIRES .THIS IS WHY I HELPED PUT THESE BASTARDS OUT OF BUSINESS.
I did this experiment WITH EVERY BRAND BEFORE CHOOSING THE PANEL FOR MY PARENTS HOUSE WHICH IS A QO.
You can BLOW THROUGH THE WIRES WITH FPE, older CHALLENGER ,20A WADSWORTH and probably other older breakers.
I touched a hot and neut together with CH ,BR & CH THE WIRES BECAME WARM ,I DONT LIKE CUTLER HAMMER [I DONT WANT GRANDMA DRIVING MY MAGNETIC TRIP] I want QUICK INSTANTANEOUS TRIPS IF A SHORT OCCURS.
If you disconnect the neutral and hot off that breaker again put a tick tester on the neutral go through each breaker until the neutral stops being hot , that’s The other circuit that’s back feeling on a neutral
Great videos! One comment, can you make your ad/banner see-thru? It blocks content. thanks!
You didn't show the bulb at the end?? Nice explaining but you found the problem and you kept going. If your hand is in the panel your face needs to be looking at what you are doing not the camera. Arcing the wire over and over till it is hot is VERY UNSAFE, use a meter and flip the breakers. Did you reimburse the customer for seeing how fast you can get the meter to go? You seem like a nice guy get the safety basics learned before you lose a finger or worse.
Hey great vid..... just one question... where you get those safety glasses? Are they rate for electrical work ?
spyderx92 they're not going to protect your eyes from arc flash, they may be UV resistant but I think he's just using them to filter light to be able to see better
Patrick Pikulski thanks, you know of any that will? I got some safety glasses and they did. It hit me well..
Yes z71 approved. You want a pair?
Peterson Electric I thought it was Z87?
spyderx92 about the only thing that will properly protect your eyes from arc flash is a welding helmet
I bet someone did some work in that place and mistakenly tied the two circuits together. I would have taken my volt meter tied it to the hot black wire then turned off the other breakers one by one to see which one fed the wire.
NEC 2017 Lighting fixtures above a pool must be installed at a minimum height of?
12’
How did you not blow the main fuse (behind the meter) by making short circuits?
Because the line to line short was at most 40 amps.
whats the swimming goggles for?
To see your work!
Protective eyewear is very valuable. Eye replacements aren't available.
I am confused at 8:02 - with what you are doing, under what conditions would ever cause any of those breakers to trip? The added load of the bulb?? What is the point of that test?
120 or not
I would have put a low impedance voltage tester on the back fed line to neutral and shut off one breaker at a time until I don’t get voltage
Thanks for the videos, please speak louder or get a microphone so that we can actually hear what you are saying.
Cutler hammer=650 amps fore magnetic trip GE wafers seem to be high also FPE is the worst you can arc weld .I like SQUARE D QO 150-200 amp instant trip if on a budget SIEMENS COPPER BUSS . Im in the process of running a 70 foot 100 amp run to my friends huge attached garage [who works on cars] ,1 1/4 EMT, bonding bushings at each panel,duct seal at subpanel no 3 VIBRANT RED ,WHITE,BLUE no 8 green to a 24 main breaker SQUARE D QO PANEL floating neutral ,separate GROUND BAR .Each home run is going to be 3/4 EMT going to an 2 1/8 11B box with gavin covers with 20 amp tr gfi then 3/4 & 1/2 EMT to 2 1/8 deep 1900 boxes with garvins load sided tr 20 amp duplexes. One home run will have two 20 a outlet circuits plus a circuit fore the heater [theirs room fore a car lift circuit in the future]. The next home will have two circuits [room fore future 240 v compressor]. The third one 20 a circuit. A separate 50 amp welding outlet under panel in a deep 1900 w no 8 ground .EACH MULTIWIRE CIRCUIT WILL HAVE BREAKER HANDLE TIES. Im really thinking about putting the heater on a gfi.
My friend is getting 5 20 amp outlet circuits ,15 a heater circuit & a 50 amp no 8 welding outlet. In the future a 15 amp gfi lighting circuit. ALL WIRES IN THE PANEL WILL BE A VIBRANT RED,WHITE,BLUE & GREEN.I told my friend to leave the breaker OFF fore the welding outlet unless hes using it [A KID STICKING A KEY IN THE OUTLET] .The town im working in is on the 2005 nec.Im really enjoying myself again i just love doing this when i can but am limited physically [shoulder]
The 2020 nec will require the main disconnect be on the outside and a placard saying emergency responders [I recommend a small all brass padlock] , all 240 volt stuff in a garage be gfi ,all 240 volt 15 & 20 amp outlets be tamper proof .I dont see 240 volt single outlets tr yet in the stores. Id like to see 30,50 amp outlets have an option to be tamper resistant.
I see that you are running some runs too small. I would only run copper, even in my underground. Bond bushings not needed. Branch circuits need to be upsized and separately ran neutrals. GFCI should be wet proof in a garage that could be sprayed down. If there is wood work or painting then this all changes with compression type fittings and sealing Bell boxes. If bell boxes are used then the box volume goes way down and larger boxes in the ceilings need to be used with more branches spidering down from the ceiling. Then most of all the service has to be inclosed in it's own room if painting or wood shop is present, even if there is a HINT that they spoke this, they will always BEND THEIR TRUTH to you and want you to do it for cheaper, mostly friends and family. Do it safe and do it right. Don't forget your two 8' rods and if you have water , it's bond. Also, UFER. if you guys have a sump for changing oil in the ground then you have to follow the Hazardous chapter 5 section, I """" THINK"""" it's class one division two. Make sure he does not store any small plains.BTY, why share neutrals with general circuits, and why not run DF breakers. Also, if you are running a disconnect, why not some FRN's with a slow blow. And if 90 amps is ok to the building then use TC tray cable. If not, then THWN-2. Don't forget VD, under a load. 210.19. FPN.
Lastly, underground PVC with bends created by heat boxes and no prefab 90's and your slip sleeves, 300 and 300.5, for depth.
@@Petersonelectricllc This is an attached residential garage the walls are all drywall ,if they spray they will damage the walls .I have the GFI protected outlets about 47 inches high.
The 100 amp feed is no 3 copper [come of you know ALUMINUM is a valgar to me] with a no 8 equipment grounding wire BONDING BUSHINGS ARE REQUIRED on the 1 1/4 in EMT run from the main 200 A panel to the subpanel, KNOCK OUTS ARE CONCENTRIC at both ends of the 1 1/4 in EMT.I put a 100 amp breaker in the main panel .Subpanel will have a floating neutral & separate grounding bar. In the main panel i put a grounding bar and ran a solid no 2 to the neutral bar,when they upgrade to 400 amp alls they have to do is remove the no 2 jumper because the disconnects will be outside.
The only shared neutrals are in the home runs when it hits that first box with the two gfi outlets every thing is load sided and separate neutrals .You can still use multiwire circuits AS LONG AS YOU HANDLE TIE THE BREAKERS .I can see this in your video. I helped wire this house in 1988 the whole place is done in multiwire circuits.
How did you find out that FPE is 650 ampers to trip vs the 200 ampers? Can one get a meter and do some bench testing and start arch welding?
Doing a good job
Who’s filming this the local news?
no safety gloves ?
I work for a old guy and the only thing I get is a face mask haha. Safety gloves come out when we work with conduit though.
Why not just use a circuit tracer to find the breaker for that hot line?
I like your video
Get you a toner and trace it back.
The breaker panel is outside ?
YES< for the 10,000 time, I do not have control over most of the COLORADO thoughts on why panels are installed outside. If I can avoid it I install mine inside, unless there is no space on any interior walls or there are rooms explained in article 230 and 240 on where not to install them.
Why not shut breakers off until the arc goes away?
You made a mountain out of a mold hill. Two breakers in parallel.
So what was the problem in the master?
TRUMP FORCEONE There was a three wire multi conductor cable running to the master from the bathroom and overflow area. It had two circuits feeding the master, bathroom and nursery. They connected the two hots together instead of separating it at the main switch as you walked into the bedroom.
How over loaded is that panel with all 1/2 breakers, man, what a setup....I have a 200A panel, and so i don't need 1/2 breakers, plus I use 3 ckts just for my stereo
Ampacity is the main breaker rating. Can.t overload as long as main breaker is rated no more than SE panel rating.
A Multimeter would of been a better choice then a light bulb.
it would not trip for his test. but blowing it over and over and heating up the bus is not the best way. Look if they have a 3 way switch in the area with light switch to the 2 areas. That or back to back outlets on same wall. The light bulb tripped at the end or committed suicide, you have to keep the glass solid for the little light fairies to not get out.
Pat B bwa hahahahaha
So what the hell was the problem with bedroom retreat tripping .
What was it ? What?What ?
I have Never promoted for you tubers to do their own electrical work. I have NO IDEA who is qualified with skills or licensed to work on electrical. It is everyone’s “OWN” risk and responsibility to take their skills or practices to learn to be better. We use many methods to test circuits. Not sure why YOU are scared to test things hot and see why circuits fail. This is why your struggling. If you use Volts, ohms, lamps, heaters, meters, etc... you will understand things on a newer level. Not sure why your watching us
My thought exactly. But that is how they call it off of a single phase transformer.
I hope you encouraged the homeowner to sue the original installer.
Love your videos but your {White Advertising Bar} at the bottom blocks important content your are demonstrating.
Yah we got read of that two years ago. It is impossible to go back and delete it now. Sorry.
Love the partial ppe! Lol
Did anyone else watch this the same way as i did. Just waiting for him to miss grab while trying to pull the breaker and get a little buzz
I watched the video, Oh wait, I made the video, did not get shocked, but thanks for caring.
Where can I get this test breaker, light bulb ??
First things foremost. Be safe. Don't get electrocuted or shocked or cause a fire. Play with electricity only with someone around so they can videotape ignorance and naivete as an example of Darwinism in Action.
Know where the main circuit breaker is in case your wires weld together, the branch circuit breaker fails closed, you hear humming, and smoke starts pouring out of your load center/panel.
In North America the search keywords are Pigtail Lamp Holder Temporary String Light Socket E26 Medium base Edison Screw (MES) . Use solid 10 AWG, 12 AWG or 14 AWG with Wire Nuts for your test leads because it won't wobble around like stranded wire. Although the bright glowing light is a quick indicator when videotaping outside in the sun wearing yellow Bono sunglasses, this ghetto hillbilly peckerwood “Tool” sucks if you drop it and then have to vacuum up broken shards of glass at your customer's home. Use a durable plastic shatter resistant A19-shaped LED bulb. Better yet, use a decent inexpensive volt meter such as Klein Tools ET60 or ET250.
To prevent sparks landing near flammables/combustibles use a pigtail from a single gang handy box with a light switch and faceplate screwed into a terminal or wire nutted for short circuit testing of overcurrent protection devices: dual function circuit breakers, AFCIs, GFCIs, CAFCIs, fuses, relay/contactors. This would, however, take more time than simply rubbing wires together.
Also his testing bulb breaks at the end of the video. I’m not an electrician but he seems very nonchalant with his ungloved hands around the live neutral. This will make some DIYer think they can do this kind of tracing without getting hurt. Call a pro that’s why they have a license.
I agree...shrink down the website log cause you can not see what he is doing very clearly. Thanks
Lol
You would like to have a tasting breaker.
Would you add that to your multi light bulb.
Its seems to have been re calibrated with floor.
Lol
Sorry sorry lol
13 years and a light bulb is your tester. Do you show your customer your home made tools?
Sorry bro but your video should have safety on. Your giving a video that looks like a how to. But it's unsafe. Your putting your hands and tools in like it's nothing. Could make your followers think that and get pinched doing that. Or weld there wires like you show as your test.
I'd like to say you do say some good points.
Keep up good work but for viewers safety.
Mention what not to do
And safe ways in doing it
Liked and subscribed, but you need to move your advertising banner as it blocks over 80% of what you are showing. Move it to the top as your mug has nothing to do with electricity, or make the banner smaller and drop it to the bottom.
Next, 60 cycles (Hz) crosses the zero voltage from positive peak and from negative peak 120 times per second.
Do not mention 3 phase when you are working on a single phase system as it will blow your audience away; unless, you get a dry erase board and draw the phases and do the math; else, do not mention it.
The part that I am curious is how do you overload the neutral bar? It is designed to take the line current of either 100A, or on average 200A.
Numbers do not lie, but you can lie with numbers and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas.
Great video, clear and never too long as it can save lives.
Lastly, never apologize, it shows a sign of weakness. Just correct the concern and finish with the comment There! and throw your hands in the air and smile.
Take care and be safe.
FJB Out!
Show me an arc fault circuit that draws over 4 amps and i wont ask you to install low voltage circuits to meet outlet spacing requirements in living quarters. Vacum and ceiling lights/fans require 120 volt ac circuits. LED could run on low voltage DC. 5 amp max fused low voltage branch circuits off the vacinity transformer to meet non dedicated receptacle requirements. Use de-rated aluminum or copper conductors. Adopt a standard over all living quarter devices to adhere to low volt ac or low volt dc. Make the equipment ground mean something again with higher quality appliances made from metal for Kitchens bathrooms and garages. Ground fault circuit interupters and equipment grounds save lives. Arc faults raise insurance rates