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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Complete AR15 Owners Guide: amzn.to/2L3NNH5
/ highjak86
With the method we use you'll need a vice, towel, and a 3/4" wrench. Some muzzle devices will use shims instead of a crush washer. Make sure you're getting the correct device for your specific threads. As always, do some good research before you get too crazy. Torque specs vary by device and manufacturer, however with most, if not all, the spec ranges from 15-30 ftlbs for 1/2x28 threads.
This is also a great video:
• Video
Hey there! Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to get back to me. I ended up purchasing an upper vise, which made the process super easy and simple, worth the investment for me I think. Cool process though for sure, thanks again! :)
+Highjak86 Thanks for the demo guys. I'm getting rid of my birdcages and going with something a little more "flashy"... no pun intended. I have no objections to the towel, despite my fellow gunners below questioning it. It works.
Good work. 2 scrap pieces of wood or a small plastic cutting board cut in half on both sides of the barrel when tightening on a vice will keep it from getting marred.
I used heater hose on mine last time. Just something to consider. Nice muzzle device...now where to see it in action!
That's exactly how you don't use a crush washer. You don't back it off and re tighten. That works on your barrel nut but not a crush washer. Why do you think they tell you they are a one and done deal? You can easily get 360 degree rotation on the nut to tighten and time it correctly. Maybe not if you're using a towel to hold in the vise though.
Lol you don’t know what you are talking about my guy. Go read the proper literature and it will tell you that you back off the muzzle device 1/8th a turn for each 1/4 turn to properly time the muzzle device.
I'm not sure on the pressure really. The concern about putting too much is there, but it's unlikely that too much can be applied in this fashion. However, we've been using a better method since this video where we cut a section of 2x4 in half and then drill a whole slightly smaller than the barrel diameter down the middle. This applies more even pressure to the barrel and the wood takes the heat, not the barrel.
All these guys going off about the towel , you are probably fine.. that being said if you have any kind of shop drill a hole through a block slightly smaller than your barrel and cut the block in half down the middle of the hole. Not fancy but it is def spreads out the force over the surface of the barrel instead of crushing it potentially.
Add a strip of rubber (old bicycle tube or scrap drawer liner, for example) for friction and you're gtg
@MrAzcabowabo The two types are actually just a "flash hider" and a "muzzle brake". This device is more of a brake. It's supposed to be very comparable to the BattleComp which says it throws about as much flash as the A2 birdcage. If you want as much flash as possible go with a big competition style brake or take the whole thing off.
thanks for the vid. was kind of confused when I hand tightened it pretty hard and it still had just under 180 degrees to go lol. First time doing it and wasn't sure if it was supposed to be a lot closer to indexed when tightened that much.You and I both need to get one of those receiver clamps for a vice though lol
2 blocks of wood with a v notch cut and set in the vise are the best to use!
Doesn’t backing it off make the crush washer useless?
Correct, this would defeat the whole point if a crush washer.
That’s what I was thinking? It’s supposed to crush and have tension. Then the moment you back it off the washer is useless
Man you really don't need to torque down so much on a crush washer, Its truly not even a washer snug it and index it your done, all that tightening backing off is not necessary, if your using a crush washer
I just used a vise grip and a impact wrench.
Just butt fuck that thing on there with a 1 inch impact
L0L
Brakes aren't louder they just direct the sound closer to the shooter.
Witch makes it louder !!! Duh ! Some people just don’t get it !
Great vid. Very helpful for my ruger pc carbine muzzle break install.
almost wasted $50 going to the gunsmith for this. thanks for the post guys!
This unit was eventually torqued with a crows foot.
Ive never done the tightening and backing off and never had a problem.
Yeah, I don't understand this. Torque is torque. The crush washer is designed to be... crushed. Shims are better than these silly crush washers any way.
I've seen others do this tightening and back off approach.
Thanks Gents!
you do not tighten and back it off with a crush washer....thats why they are a one and replace
This process is mainly just to line up the device. There are proper torque specs and some muzzle devices will not line up correctly until the washer is pre-crushed. This process just pre-crushes the washer so the correct torque is on the muzzle device when it's lined up properly.
Thanks for making the video. Do you risk any damage to the barrel clamping it in the vice?
I agree, you should buy me one. :) We've had good luck with this one though. Shoots .5 MOA at 100 yards with good ammo.
That depends on the muzzle device you are installing. Most come with instructions if they require timing (aka: lining up). Others don't require timing and the instructions should say this.
@Highjak86 Awesome, can't wait.
I was hoping I could get a little help brother - I recently got a Tikka T3X UPR , and then an AR-STONER Precision Muzzle Brake (it was only $20, figured it was worth a try...) - it's my first muzzle device. I thought I could remove them and install them just whenever I wanted, screwing it on and off etc. Obviously not. I guess I will be "installing" it semi-permanently - one of my questions is, how are you determining the torque you want/need to use, and then how are you measuring it? It looks like you're using a standard wrench and I can probably replicate the process, just not sure when I know I'm good enough or not good enough or waaaaaay too much etc. Thanks very much, it was helpful to watch definitely.
Buy a Smith Vortex or a Seekins Nest. They are self tightening. Basically you snug it up lightly with a wrench and that’s it, it can be undone just as easily. Actual numbers for the torque spec is probably 10 ft/lbs or less.
You may have to fire 2 or 3 rounds after install so the muzzle gasses spin it tight for you but otherwise no real torque spec is needed.
@pistondriven556 Comps are great for keeping the muzzle rise to a minimum. We were very impressed with the Dynacomp. I just installed a BattleComp 2.0 last week. We'll be putting out a video comparing the two and doing a little bit of testing on both sometime soon.
Highjak86 you’ve got to be kidding a muzzle break on an AR-15.AR-10yes.A muzzle break on a 15,is like tits on a bull USELESS.
whats up with that rifle man!! i wanna see the finshed product
Never go over 20' pounds or you will effect accuracy. The more torque applied, the more the barrel bore will be compressed..
Very nice upgrade ...
I like the sticker on the tool box #okinawa
If 20 pounds feet is required then bear in mind that that isn't that tight really. As an example the 'average' lug nut on a car is normally tightened to around 80 to 90 lb.ft.
That'll give yo an idea of how tight you should 'torque' it up to,..not that much really!
A towel? Really?
NJ requires you to run a brake instead of the A2? A brake is louder. Maybe NJ has a ban on flash hiders. I'd look into it before you listen to other people. To the best of my knowledge the only reason you need to permanently attach a muzzle device is if your barrel is under 16". If not it's technically a NFA item.
in NJ, we a can have only one evil feature on semi-auto rifle with detachable magazines. Most people with ARs go with the evil pistol grip, which means they cannot have an evil adjustable stock or an evil flash hider or an evil threaded barrel. So you can have a flash hider on an M1A because it doesn't have a pistol grip. And 99.9% of ARs in NJ have a pinned and welded muzzle brake. Gun laws written by people who know nothing about guns. SMH.
I had a gunsmith attach one of these on my rifle about two weeks ago, but the thing is ever so slightly misaligned. Seems it needs just one little twist to be perfect. Should I take it back and ask them to do it for me?
YES!
Hell yea!
How not to install a muzzle device
What the hell is a foot pound??????? I hear people saying it all the time "yeah you really don't wanna apply more than 15 foot pounds of torque " WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? EXPLAIN IT PLEASE!
read some comments. Glad you seem to have improved the process. that was one of the most cringe videos I have seen on the topic lol
You really need a set of soft Jaws for your Vise.
what about installing the pin that came with it?
This is what I like to hear. :)
Another thing you could do if you have access to a Router Table would be to slice up your blocks of wood (Oak would be real nice if you have it laying around) and then use an appropriately sized half round bit in the router table and route half circles in the two pieces. Just another idea.
You know for like 25 bucks you can get a really nifty tool that allows you to do this correctly. Instead of clipping your gun in a vice with a towel.
this helped! thank you
that "lube " on the threads will be carbonized by the intense heat of the barrel. Pretty sure i threads should be clean and dry,
Never put grease on threads when they have a torque requirement. You are torqueing against the grease and not thread to thread.
@@Aereaux wonder how all those billions of head studs have held up over the decades
Crush washers are pointless....
@kyledanger45 Should have all the stuff in tomorrow. We're taking half the day to go to the range and get a final video. Woot!
I have the same Comp. I can't remember the name of it and there is no markings. Do you remember it? PS: I found it. It's a Spikes Tactical Comp.
What happen if you use two crush washer??
Cool information what type brake is that ?
I bet their spec is dry torque, not wet; big difference. CAREFUL...
Nope, all torque is based on wet..
Can you do it without the vice grip
Thanks for a great idea, what kind of grease did you used?
Nice, video guys. In yalls opinion how much do thosse comps help out? I've been thinking about changing out my A2 flashhider for something that will reduce mussel climb but not make a dust storm when I'm prone.
Question; Is there such a thing as a "Crush Washer" 26MM for a PAP M92 Barrel? I have a 4 piece Flash Hider and I'm not very pleased with the tightness ater installation and using the Detent Slot and it not being very tight. Im thinking the use of a Crush Washer would allow me to tighten it better to the AK Barrel, but I have not been able to find one. Can you advise?
Get a reaction rod, do it the safe way
is thaat a flash enhancer or supressor? Also will u get more flash out of a barrel with the flash hider removed or more flash out of an enhancer? I like me a good fireball and was gonna go shooting tonite, i was considering taking my yhm phantom flash hider off for tonite. Thx mang
No matter what .. do a close up of your washer position since u are trying to demonstrate to an audience. VR mike. Master Armor
@kyledanger45 Alright, I take that back... maybe not a FINAL video, but you'll get to see the optic and see it shoot.
Who makes that comp
*THUMBS UP*
What part of japan were you in?
How do you "line it up"?
7 years later.......I take a really straight piece of wood or metal and line up the barrel extension with the gas hole and mark where that straight line meets the muzzle device with a metallic gray sharpie. I do that right when I get my barrel so I don't have to worry about it later when my barrel nut and hand guard are in place. You might need to find some alternate method like that for when you are just changing it on an already built gun.
Dont put grease the materials are spec out for no lubricant
Interesting. I say take your money and put it into a UHaul so you can move. Haha. NFA is the National Firearms Act. That's where the rifle under 16" laws come from as well as 18" for shotguns as well as a bunch of other BS. Some states allow NFA items as long as they're registered and taxed, some do not.
Great video! How much pressure do you have to put on in that pipe vise? Do you have to worry about denting the barrel if you crank to high? Thanks! :)
Cool.
thats bullshit my gunsmith did it for free as long as i bought him lunch haha. $40??!! wow
Tight and then back off? Way to teach us how to ruin a crush washer
Wireline .Cables yeah, probably not smart, why do that? I'm sure he confused it for the other end of the barrel. You remove the tension and gradually increase the torque each time while seating the barrel nut to the upper receiver. Doing that on this end doesn't make any sense.
Do all barrels have the threads to install a muzzle/suppressor?
no, although i've never seen an ar-15 without a threaded barrel, if that's what you mean. my saiga rifle, ruger 10/22, mosin nagant, all have no threads though.
I just found out that my At Bushmaster was when the fear of "assault" was grand and illegal to be optional with a suppression device.....thanks for the reply....kat
that's unfortunate. sorry to hear.
Looked at a Bushmaster few years ago, no threads or iron sights...some kinda mutt
HEY NUMB NUTS, EVER HERD OF SOFT JAWS
Great video dude, one trick you might like to start using is instead of using a towel to wrap around the firearm in the vice, simply take your shirt off and wrap it around, then you can do a quality job on your firearm while getting some hot chicks at the same time.
SMH, LOL
Yes. No. Good. Bad. Do. Don't. Right . Wrong. You know what? I'm taking mine to a professional gunsmith, spend a little money and have it done RIGHT!!!
How hard did you tighen that down on your barrel? I tried this but it just kept spinning in the towel & I felt I applied to much pressure. Im using an old vice with long flat ends so Im afraid of crushing it.
Fairly snug, not gorilla tight though. We now use a 2x4 that has been cut in half after we drilled though it the long ways for a slot for the barrel to fit in. We use the block in the vice. The muzzle device gets torque to roughly 20ft lbs.
bubbasmithing
Nice Vid! I called a gunsmith to install my brake and he wanted 40 minimum for a 3 minute job..wtf? Went to Harbour freight, laid down 26 dollas to china for a vise and did it myself.
14 dollars+
I used a belt sander on my crush washer Just sanded it a Little at a time till it timed out perfect. Easy. I bought the shins and even bought silicon o rings. Couldn't wait I waisted money. Belt sander is too easy.
James Reed I do the same damn thing! works like a charm. I also put a small amount of rockset just for the added security. But its not really needed. I have one I did this way just no rockset and 3500 rounds and still in place. oh, I do blue the area I sanded. thats just me ocd though.
What kink of muzzle is that?
Okay thanks!
Nearly 170,000 views on this...SMH....LOL
Thanks for showing the incorrect way how to do things!!!
As opposed to the "correct" way? Like placing the upper in a upper receiver block and instead of just torquing the muzzle device torque on the entire upper? Laughable.
I didnt see anything torqued.
MrAAAusername As stated in the comments several times we confirmed torque values with a crows foot and a torque wrench after the fact. Also, as stated in the video at the time we didn't have a crows foot. Regardless, per our findings, and we have removed and installed a dozen or so muzzle devices, depending on the device it becomes increasingly difficult to meet the recommended torque values specified (if the manufacturer even specifies ANY) so the best you can do is get "close enough" in most cases.
+MrAAAusername Muzzle devices have been installed for over 100 years, many of those without the use of a "proper" torque wrench. 15-30 pounds is a big range to work with, part of that is because spacers will only get you so close so you may only need to tighten a little or maybe a lot. A little movement -15lbs another 1/16 of a turn - 30 lbs (just as a generalized example).
Bi-Yearly reminder that MrAAAusername is an idiot.