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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2021
- The Thermostat finally went out on the car after 50k miles. This has been a common issue with the LGX motor and lots of people were wondering how to fix it. Took the opportunity to make the video to help out! Overall it was not too hard but its not that easy.
Music:
Color Til Monday
The Brain Ghosts
Misc. Ailments
Rogue Stereo - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Helpful, time saving tip for those doing this... replace the Coolant temp sensor when you do the thermostat. The temp sensor is right next to the thermostat and commonly goes out on these cars. It is a VERY inexpensive item (about $13 dollars). I have heard of many people just doing the thermostat and then having to pull everything apart again because the sensor was bad. Do the thermostat and the sensor while you have everything apart... save yourself the headache and time wasted. When it comes to cars, I live by the motto "Do it right or do it twice."
Yes yes yes. 100% agree. I would have done it but I was in a major time pinch and it wasn't available to do when I was working on it. But definitely do both whole you're at it
15mm crows foot made removing the sensor super easy
I learned that the hard way.
Thanks jus happen to my car twice in 1 month but I do gotta question I read that it could be the fact that low coolant and sensor doesn’t pick up on the amount so it doesn’t read ? So fill both reservoirs up then see if same problem occurs that’s what I read not saying it’s true
@tommydre4347 yeah that's not true. One of my reservoirs was nearly empty. Was hoping that's all it was but no, kept happening.
Just fixed this same issue on my 2016 Camaro. Awesome video, really helped me out!
Glad it helped!
this literally just happened to me. Glad its an easy fix and nothing crazy. Appreciate the vid
Thanks for watching! Hope this helped make it easier
Had that happen to mine. Changed it out in a hour. Works great now
Amazing video thank you. Had mine replaced a while back due to finding no videos but ill def be ready next time
I'm glad it helped out at least for any future issues. Thank you for watching!
So you just saved me $1300.00 and i thank you! because "I just didn't have the money" it was not sensor in my case and it took me a full 4hours to swap out. my car is a 2016 Camaro V6. and i found the tool you use to get into that hard to reach area. 3/8' Drive 6-point Metric 10 mm flank Drive Shallow Universal Socket. ( got mine from Amazon )
again THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Of course! My goal is to help. And I'm glad you're able to save some cash that can go to mods 😉. Be safe out there!
Dude... this is the absolute best "How-To" on this job.
I'm sure there will be someone who will do a much better job later but I appreciate it and thank you for watching.
@@RCCamaro man the others i looked for were no where near this. Look, my car overheats. the coolant in the tank boils. the air goes in and out, but the heat works. the sensor stays reading COLD until the car overheats. we just put some stopleak in it and ran it again. Noticed there was no leak, but it ran hot. I remember Autozone's reading telling me I need a new thermostat replacement. So, does that sound like the ideal situation where the bad thermostat would cause the vehicle to overheat?
@@KalvinKosha I definitely appreciate that as it's a long video but I do my best so thank you. But did the over heating randomly start? Or did you do a flush? The car shouldn't overheat as the fan should stay on at any temp. But replacing the thermostat and the sensor are never bad ideas. It will just rule those out as issues. Just make sure you burp the system to get any air out of the engine
Thanks for the video my is doing the same thing, had the manifold off twice before to change injectors, next weekend project 2017 with 137,000.
Wow! Not bad though! 137k before it needed to be changed so that's good. I'm glad the video was able to help!
Thanks big dawg did the same as yours but did what u said with battery for 15 min n it’s a go for me thanks man
Glad I was able to help!
I'd say some of GM's clips were a little more difficult to deal with than that one bolt with no clearance. I managed to use my small socket wrench with a thin extension. Came out and tightened back up with no problem. Skinny fingers and and small turns allowed me to get that bolt out with no problem. Other than that, thank you for the video. Very helpful.
Haha yea I mean I tried with my fingers but it was a bit too tight plus I was on a time crunch so I needed to hurry and get it done as soon as I could haha. But always welcome other ways that may make it easier 👌
Thanks for the video, brother. My Cadillac had the same issue 😉
Thank you for watching. Glad it helped!
Just happen to mine, will do exactly as you say, hopefully this is it for me, already changed the tempt sensor thinking it was that and it was good for a day and then the check engine light came back on so I looked up what it could be and boom you came up so I will try this today
Awesome hopefully this fixes your issue. What code came up?
@@RCCamaro update! After changing it, everything went back to normal! Thank you so much! This video did it all for me! I didn’t get any codes because I didn’t scan it, I just knew it was the same issue because of how my car was acting
@@jvvallad8055 super happy to hear that! Hopefully it runs good for a while!
Nice helpful vid man
Thank you so much for watching. I appreciate it
Thank you! I wish you included the intake removal. But I can probably it somewhere.
I have removed it in so many videos I figured it was redundant but I do have a few videos explaining how to take it off. But also plenty of others also.
Thanks for the video! Have the same issue with a 2016 Cadillac CTS 3.6L which I'm being told is the same engine in your Camaro? No temp being displayed, fan constantly runs on high, auto engine stop/start is disabled, do have heat. Assumed it was the sensor but will replace both.
Yes! This should help you locate it! Hope it helps and its an easy replacement.
i got a set of the colored rings like your blue ones on your steering wheel but in dark red. did you get the ones for the vents as well?
I actually wrapped the ring haha it wasn't easy but it came out super good. The side buttons not so much haha but I have enough to redo them. Although I thought about buying them instead
Thanks this really helped me out Chevrolet wants a buttload of money to do it
I've heard they charge a ridiculous amount but I also don't blame them as it's not very easy for the average person who doesn't know much about cars.
But thank you for watching! Appreciate you taking the time.
If your car is under warranty, they should replace it for free. That was the case with me.
@@ayyo-jason my first one was covered but wasn't sure if the second one was haha but he could have been out of warranty.
If you remove the metal tube above that hard to reach bolt head, the hard to reach bolt head is a straight shot, much easier and no need for a u-joint swivel. Only one bolt to remove the tube, then the tube pulls right out. It also makes it easier to remove and install the stat housing. At 10:32 the tube is the metal one with the "Y" connection.
Didn't think of that! Thanks for the tip. See I didn't want to remove more than I needed to but I'm sure that would have saved me time haha.
Thanks for making this video to see what the job actually looks like. My LGX CT6 is doing the same thing intermittently the last couple of days so I ordered the sensor. I'm perplexed as to why you didn't just change it while you had it apart since it's a $15 part?!? I'm just going to do both and call it a day. Great tip on the 10mm u-joint socket! You said you've had your intake off multiple times, do you replace the intake o-rings or have you been reusing them? Any issues throwing codes due to air leaks?
I didn't change the sensor as I need the car the next day and the part was going to be a week out for some random reason. But that socket will save your life especially on other parts of the car too. You are able to reuse the gasket multiple times. Just double check them to make sure they are not cracked or chipped. I haven't had any codes for vacuum leaks
@@RCCamaro ordered the socket already. I consulted the GM service documentation for this condition and it goes back to DTC P0128. The DTC is run each ignition cycle to monitor thermostat performance. It checks to see if the coolant temperature matches a calculated target based on ambient temperature after enough time has passed for the engine to reach steady state operation. If the DTC fails the temperature gauge defaults to cold, fan is commanded high and the A/C is commanded off. The MIL may not be illuminated on the first failure. The most probable cause is a stuck thermostat. If your car is still behaving the sensor might be fine. I'll probably do both while I'm in there. How did your intake valves look? Any carbon build up?
@@YoshiV819 oh yea they are bad haha didn't jump on the catch can fast enough but I'm planning to clean them once I hit 60k. If you have the ability to clean them I could. Might as well since you have the intake off. Just be careful not to drop anything into the cylinder haha
Hey, thanks for the video! I have a 2017 2.0 engine camaro. Just curious, does my engine have the same problem as the v6 too ?
That I'm not sure on a i haven't heard of this happening as often in the 4 cylinder cars. But that being said I've heard it happen often with the 6 and 8s so could just be a part issue with gm.
I have a question, Does the thermostat is included in the 36.000 miles warranty of the motor that Chevy does in their cars. I have not doing any upgrades to the engine or intake, that could avoid the warranty. I will do upgrades until I payoff the car. Let me know please
If the thermostat goes out before you're warranty is up then yes it will be covered but if it goes out after that then no. As far as I've seen most of them will go out around 50,000 miles
Great video! Thank you for posting. Question, did you need silicone or gasket once putting it back together? Not talking about to the block, that has a gasket. I am talking about the front where the hose connects to the thermostat housing.
I saw you emailed me but will also drop my answer below this as well.
First off thanks for watching! Appriciate you taking the time but also glad it helped you out in some way. I did not use anything outside of what was provided in the box of the new thermostat and housing. It came with new bolts and gasket for the block side. If I remember correctly, there should be a gasket on the plastic 90 degree that connects to it. I didn't replace it as it was in great shape. If it's broken or was lost I would get another gasket but a putting a bead of sealant could work until you get the gasket.
@RCCamaro Thanks so much for the reply. Didn't mean to message bomb you, haha. You've been a bog help. Much thanks!
@@gaitan79 haha all good! No worries. I'm glad my reply got back to you.
Just curious..would it have been easier to change the thermostat by itself or did the housing itself play a role? Did you ever change the temp sensor or was this alone enough for the issue?
The housing and the thermostat are one piece so you have to change both. I didn't change the sensor at the time due to not having enough time waiting for the sensor. I will change it out next time I have to remove the manifold though
But this did fix my issue. My sensor didn't fail
Ahh okay. I saw the sensor being sold by itself and watched a video of someone changing one on a v8, so I was curious..
I believe on the SS it is different. Unfortunately I cannot state if that is true. The good thing is that it isn't too expensive. Well it wasn't during this recording and I did get a deal with the shop I was working at.
Hi, thank you for this video. It definitely helped but we are still running into issues and hoped your insight could help. We have changed the thermostat and the thermostat sensor on our 2018 Camaro and after completion, disconnected the negative battery and let rest. Turned the car on and it seemed to correct the issue of not reading the thermostat temp and the needle going back to where it should be. However, after 10 minutes or so, the reading goes back to - - and the needle goes back to “C”. We are completely stumped, any idea of what this could be from?
Well that is interesting. A few things that I can think of that it could be is faulty thermostat or sensor. Could be air in the system and could be throwing the car off. But if it's not throwing a code (which if it was the sensor it would be that) then the thermostat could be faulty (which unfortunately happens). I would double check to make sure that the sensor connection is completely plugged in and there isn't any cut edges that could cause a short. If not then that's a tough one. I'll have to research and see what else that would cause that issue
Did u find out what wrong
@@Hardawaydre4347did you found out what’s the problem. I have The same issue
Dealing with the same issue on my 2018 camaro. I changed the coolant temp sensor. Removing the sensor was a chore, It is at a weird angle and i had to bend the open end of the wrench to get the right angle . It seemed to work for two days and then it went back to no temp reading. i did the removing of the negative battery cable , that worked for a day. so tomorrow i am doing the thermostat .Thanks for your video . Has your gauge been working since you replaced the thermostat .
I have not had any issues since this. Mind you, if I had more time I definitely would have changed both to make sure it would be good for another 45k miles but didn't have the time. But the thermostat is a very common problem with these engines. Thankfully it's not super hard to do
@@RCCamaro just finished changing the thermostat .i had to do a reset by removing the negative cable . seem to be working perfect now. thanks for your reply and info .
@@RedPill556 I had to remove the negative from my car because when I started the car it was reading the same but if the car is working without needing to do it you should be good! But feel free to hit me up at any time always here to help!
My ac is out. Fan is running. Engine isn’t hot. Ran the code and it seemed to just be the sensor. Do I need to take the thermostat out to get to the sensor or is it much easier ?
You do need to remove the thermostat so you can get to the clip that holds the sensor in place.
Hi, same issue just popped up w my 2016, is it safe to drive short distances? Waiting for the thermostat and temperature sensor to arrive. Thank you.
Unless it's an emergency I would let the car sit. I can cause some issues if driven too much.
Hey hope you can reach out to me but last night I got home and I turned off my car and I heard a noise then saw my radiator fan was still on even though my car was off and then my check engine light popped up also next day I went to autozone and code p0128 popped up will it most likely be the thermostat I’d need to replace?
It is the thermostat. I would get that replaced along with the sensor since you will be there. That being said I didn't show how to replace the sensor but it's not super easy but can be done.
Would it help to clamp the coolant hoses prior to removing the thermostat to try an prevent coolant from escaping?
I would say give it a shot but regardless you will lose coolant when you remove the thermostat. Might be less though if you clamp the hoses
Thank you. One more question, Did you disconnect the negative on the battery first before you started working on it?
@@darthbane5346 haha honestly I didn't but I would recommend doing it cause you are most likely going to have to do it to reset the temp sensor. I actually need to start doing that when I work on the car
Removing your negative cable will correct the issue TEMPORARILY. But unless you replace those parts (do them both) it will come back. Mine did it so i pulled the negative from the battery and i was good for 8 months! Then it happened again. I pulled it again. Lasted a few more months. Now its an everyday thing.
The thermostat was the issue for me. Haven't had any issues since then but I'm sure the sensor will fail at some point.
When you replaced the coolant sensor did it sit all the way down it seems to get tight before ?
I didn't replace the sensor when I was doing the thermostat (which I'm going to regret one day) so unfortunately I can't give you too much information but I would think it should be a tight fit as there will be a lot of pressure it will need to withstand
Thank you I appreciate it
My temp gauge has been dropping to nil and I reset the computer with a code reader and it reads but especially in cold weather it struggles to get to normal temperature. I'm going to have to replace the thermostat apparently. I've reset a couple 😂 thinking it's a glitch from replacement of the battery.
Yea the reset only work for so long but once you change it out you should be good! That's a great idea while you're waiting for parts.
Where did y’all get the part? I’m currently reading to do the same to my car
You can order it through most auto part stores. Or you can get it from gm direct or a dealer
Ive bee told this can cause your REV MATCH to quit working. Imma try it and see what happens hopefully itll fix my issue
It's possible since the car can't regulate the engine temp, which it would do what I can to keep the temp as low as possible. But unless you have the issue of the fan staying on after you shut it off or the gauge not working, it might be another issue
You're lucky i have a 2011 v6 and that thermostat is in the back of the engine. I almost got it off, but i couldn't take the bolts off tight as hell. Had to take it to the dealership to have it replaced.
Oh dang is it on top still or down by the firewall?
@@RCCamaro sandwiched between the firewall and the back of the engine on the passenger side. Much more of a hassle than your thermostat location. The v8 has the best spot right in front to the side of the engine. With easy access to it.
@JohnSmith-lf8kg that is terrible. Yea I would definitely send it to the dealer. Although if there was enough room with the hood I might try it haha
Did you drained the coolant first ?
I did not. Realistically you don't need to since it's so high up in the line but you can if you want to do a flush.
Mine just went out today but my car should still be covered under warranty. Do you think it is safe to drive my car to work then bring it in the afternoon to the dealer? I only have a 13 mile drive to work
Honestly I wouldn't but that being said I drive it to the shop where I swapped it out and it was fine. I wouldn't drive it too far though
@@RCCamaro awesome thanks for the reply
@@joeltouchard1155 no problem! Always here to help!
Hey you let the coolant fluid out before doing that or its ok when its full doing it ?
You can do it while it's full but if you were planning to change the coolant might as well do both at the same time. I just made sure to burp the system when I was done. You will spill as it's almost impossible to avoid just make sure to clean it up once you're done just in case
@@RCCamaro my car is new(its import with 50k miles on it, but its restored full for me its new ) i have it like 3 weeks and my temp always go 0 i change the sensor allready but didnt work still go to 0 now i want to change thermostat maybe it will help me fix it
@pr3mium543 ah then you should be good then. This should fix it. I would recommend unplugging the batter like I did just to see if it resets it.
@@RCCamaro yeah did it 3 times with old sensor and with new 2 times but it work just for 30-50 km :( why do all say new thermostat will not fix it because its a mechanical component ?
@pr3mium543 yea the car will go into a safe mode if the thermostat doesn't close or open so it will read that way. But it should fix that issue if you have already done the sensor
Do u have a cold air intake? If so, where did u purchase it and what’s the part number?
I do have one and I bought it off of someone as I wasn't able to purchase it to California. But it is for an SS
@@RCCamaro ok thanks I didn’t know they would fit. After u changed thermostat did your fans cut back on? Or did u have to disconnect the negative cable and then that fixed it?
@@omerecook5550 to be more specific, it is a Cold Air Inductions intake. But I had to disconnect the negative for the car to reset. Since this fix, the car has been working perfectly
@@RCCamaro ok thanks man this video just walked me thru the entire process. I just finished up literally 15 minutes ago lol
@@omerecook5550 Yes! Super stoked to hear! Glad it helped you out!
We change sensor and thermostat and still not working 😢 what else could be ?
The only thing I can think of is a defective thermostat or sensor. Not sure if you tried it but unplug the battery for an hour and see if that resets it
You know I did all this but instead of the thermostat I did the sensor and now it’s doing the same😐, going to have to do it all over again but thermostat this time. Also I got a new battery and the I/M readiness for the o2 and evap are not getting ready (you need a scanner to check), I heard there’s a driving procedure you have to follow. How did you deal with that on your maro. My sticker is from last year cause inspection won’t pass it🙃
Oh man that can be a pain. Good thing is you do it once it gets a bit easier. But yea the drive cycle will take some time and I had a site that had what you needed to do but it's not working. You might be able to get this info from a dealer
I did read the procedure on google specific for Chevrolet but is not working. I have an advanced code reader it tells me the procedure I found out yesterday but I couldn’t complete it because it stopped reading the coolant temperature in the middle of the process😐
The procedure is as follows.
In order to count the coolant temp has to be under 104F and intake manifold temp between 36-90F before turning on the car open the hood and let the car idle for more than 2 minutes with accessories off.
After the idle step close the hood and go on to drive part throttle (go easy on accelerator) at a speed of 43-50 mph for 16 minutes.
Then accelerate to 55 mph for 2 minutes after let go of accelerator 15 seconds do not touch accelerator, clutch or brakes let it coast.
Stop the vehicle and let it idle for 2 minutes, then turn it off and don’t mess with the car for 45 minutes.
@A JF yea it's a pretty crazy amount of steps to do the drive cycle. Which is why this year when I smog I'm going to go back to stock a few months early to make sure I can go through the drive cycle since I drive so much.
All videos I see say the same thing. Disconnecting the battery is a temporary fix. No one seems to have the permanent fix to this problem. During the winter, I’ve reset my battery damn near everyday.
Yea disconnecting the battery is not a fix. Might help in a pinch but you will need to swap out the thermostat
how you got it out without taking the aluminum pipe from top of the screw off?
Do you mean the housing? The thermostat and the housing are one unit so you replace the whole thing
@@RCCamaro no I mean the little aluminum pipe that makes it impossible to take off the thermostat
@@PlayTimeVXI'm assuming the small rubber pipe and the steel pipe that runs under it, above the thermostat to the left of it? The screw closest to the back of the engine was easy. The one towards the front was hard and the socket I recommended worked perfectly. To get it out, you need to work it a bit too get out
@@RCCamaro yeah that one it's horrible to take out that thermostat screw
@@PlayTimeVX yea... other than that small socket, there really isn't much else you can do to make it easier without removing other things that isn't necessary. A small wrench will work too but will take longer
Got a 2017 too i changed the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor. And my car is still overheating. Fan aint working
If your fans are not turning off it could be the fuse or the fans need to be replaced. The big symptom of the thermostat or sensor is the fans saying on after the car is off. I would check the fuse first. If fuse is good it is most likely the fan. If the fan is good, could be air in the system and it needs to be burped.
need help on this guys. my sensor is not reading nothing and the needle is down, i removed the battery and now the needle and the digital read out is working, did replacing the thermostat worked for every one ? after discconetong the battery my coolant temp has been between 195 and 210, also the coolant reservoir tank ( bottom of tank )has been empty since then. thanks every one
Make sure you burp the system and add more coolant. If you replaced both the sensor and the thermostat you should be good.
Wassup fam did u get any work done am reading ya comment and it seems like u took battery out n put it back in and everything sensor back working? It that what you were implying
how jumpy was the car when you first turn it on ?? my engine shakes a lot when attempting to turn on even after disconnecting the battery? with you was it shaking then went back to normal???
It did shake a little but it went away after some time. How long exactly I'm not sure. Are you tuned or anything?
@@RCCamaro thanks my friend , I don't have a tune it's stock, so I will let it run for a while
@@DanielRivera-dc9yu it could be that it just need some time. What I would do is unplug the negative for about 30 minutes and let it run to operating temp and see if it clears up
@@DanielRivera-dc9yu did it ever clear up for you? Ive let mine run for 20 min now and its still shaking pretty bad. Coolant temp got to 160 and im now gonna unplug my battery to for 20 min and try again
@@RCCamaro i let it sit for 20 min and unplugged my battery for 30 min but its still really jumpy and gives me the info "Engine Power is Reduced" did yours do this as well when you first started it even after unplugging the battery?
Is this engine the 6.2 that comes in 6th gen ss camaros?
This is the v6 in the LTs the SS has the LT1 motor in it.
wait i just read somewhere is your comments this video isn’t for people with the 2SS, i have a 2016 2SS and i have this problem so if i follow your steps in this video it won’t fix my issue ?
Yes unfortunately this is for the v6 engine. The LT1,1ss and 2ss have the LT1 motor in it. There are videos of there for it though. The procedure is the same for the most part just different parts and locations
@@RCCamaro i appreciate you brother and your quick response !! you got my sub!!
@Team bentley appreciate it and always happy to help 🙏🏻👍
Take a shot every time he says kinda
Haha I'm not responsible for anyone getting sh*t faced haha. I know I repeat a lot haha
Puedo Seguir corriendo El carro con El termostato abierto si nolo cabin en tres dias
No lo haría sólo porque el motor no estaría funcionando a la temperatura de funcionamiento. En caso de emergencia, estaría bien, pero recomendaría reemplazarlo lo antes posible.
You won't get a check engine light unless it's really cold out
I honestly can't remember if I had a check engine light but that makes sense haha
Love this video🫶 thanks helped me a lot.!!!
Glad it helped!
I changed both sensor and thermostat, did not fix problem. I now just carry my “code-key” just plug in and push button, problem solved, temporarily.
That is really weird. You unplugged the battery and everything right?
@@RCCamaro yes sir, I’ve tried everything. There is one more sensor I have not changed. It is in the lower half of the engine block. I’ve been dealing with this issue for over two years. 2016 SS2
@@jamesadixon3380 ohhhhh yea if you have a 2SS then this video really won't help unfortunately. This is mainly for the V6 LGX engine.
Tengo mi Camaro 2017 y la auga de mi carro se saja y prende el ventilador y si desconecto la batería y la conecto funciona normal pero después de 3 días se baja la auga de nuevo ya cambie el censor pero sige igual
cambiaste solo la sensor o cambiaste tambien el termostato? puede ser que el sensor este bien pero el termostato sigue sin funcionar
@@RCCamaro solo cambie el censor y se sigue bajando la aguja de temperatura creo que voy atener que cambiar el termostato tamejn
@@antoniocruz2016 sí, eso es probablemente lo que está mal. no debería ser muy difícil cambiar
Ya cambie el sensor y el termostato, pero la auja sigue en C . El aire acondicionado, no trabaja , solo el heat pero no regula bien. Desconecte la bateria y todo. Nada!!! Encontro que mas puedes ser??
Does anyone kno if it is required to get gasket sealer for coolant thermostat
I can't remember but I don't think so. I feel like it comes with a rubber one
Ok thanks this video was a life saver 💯👍🏿
@@RCCamaro I don’t mean to bother u but I got a 2019 CamaroLt 3.6 is this the right thermostat 15-81889 this is the part number
@tommydre4347 this is the OEM part number 12678784 I got an OEM replacement but most car part stores can use that to find the one you need
@@RCCamaro ok thanks
Skip to 3 minute mark geez.
I'm assuming intro is too long?
Temperature sensor
It’s called a swivel
For whatever reason I couldn't think of it haha thanks!
800.00 Labor at dealership !
Yea it's expensive
This is NOT the 6.2 liter SS V8 engine
Correct. That engine is the LT1. This video is for the V6 LGX engine
Great video but what a stupid design and location.
Oh yea. Such a pain to get too and that's not going over the sensor. I've heard that's much worse
Idk what it's called, get one... dude really
Haha I'm assuming that small joint socket?
@@RCCamaro 🤣 I think I found it
Video doesn’t work…
Can you explain?
TH-cam won’t let me post a screen shot,
But it plays the first 3 seconds then says an error occurred please try again later.
@@kennethpemberton5386 that is really weird. I got to a minute and jped the video. Not sure what's going on but I'll see if I can find out
Is called a swivel
Yea i found that out after recording this haha.
Can any one tell me where the oil pressre sensor is on the 3.6. Camaro -2017, I'm losing it trying to find an answer / or diagram for that matter 😡
I don't know exactly where it is but let me see what I can find. Message me on Instagram so I can send info once I find it
I found where it's located and the process to replace it. You can either message me on Instagram or email me at rcazaresjr91@gmail.com
Hey RC where can I email you?
You can email me at rcazaresjr91@gmail.com or message me on Instagram @rccamaro