I’d rather pay you twice as much and take 5 times as long to do a job for me. You pay attention to detail and it shows a true love for your craft. Great series!
Thanks for all the schooling Mike. I like your patience. I like that you reference the tech manual, It's important to me to be part of your machine, you show that in all your vids. Thanks
Attention to detail is your deal .Watching your videos gives me the confidence in working on my own stuff ,instead of taking it to the Stealership.Thank You!
Thank you from Southern New Jersey Mike. I've watched your videos over and over and they have given me the confidence and knowledge to rebuild my 97' evo. Keep up the awsome videos, they help us 1st timers more that you know!
Better to take your time and do it right ! Mine blew up on me . A valve stuck open and destroyed the piston and of course the head . I had to tear the motor apart down to removing the right case to remove shrapnel , but I left the crank pressed into the left case . Put it all back together with a new piston and cylinder and she runs fine now . Took me six months working a couple hours here and there .
I've wondered for a long time about ring positioning. Gaps should not overlap, very important, I get that. But what makes the rings to stay at their place? Isn't there a risk that the rings starts to move by them self when the motor is running?
Not much. Cylinder bores are round. Rings have no reason to change their position. They break in and fit themselves. The design work that goes into piston rings is very scientific and very extensive. I once sat through a seminar on piston rings presented by one of the major manufacturers. It was way over my head.
Is the Evo motors have Dome Pistons being hemispherical combustion chamber thank you please tell me when you build anything either absolutely correct or it is wrong great job check and recheck you're the greatest craftsmanship in finest
Hey Mike. Just a suggestion: explain why the end gab clearence are so important (heat expansion) so peapol don't mess it up. Also why the dot on the second ring are important. Greetings from Denmark
Hi Mike, I'm probably just being a worry wort, but: Does it matter which way the tangs on the oil control ring spacer go? Some say they must face down, others say they must face up. Appreciate the help
Mike, I'm at final hone on my Evo cylinders and both cylinders are between +.005" & +.010" oversize (3.509"). My +.010" hastings ring set leaves me with a .020" ring gap on my compression ring which is right at the maximum threshold (0.007-0.020" per the manual). Should I be concerned with that or go ahead and slap it together? Thanks for sharing! Love your channel!
Did you bore it ten over? Are your pistons ten over? Always consult your service manual and look at "service wear limits." I don't know exactly what you have here. Thank you, but I hate to give out bad advice. Again, not sure what you have.
Hello Mike, I’m building my own evo motor and can’t find out which pistons/bores I have. My pistons have that same STD-4 mark on top of the piston. Does that mean it is .040 oversize? Thank you for you videos and greetings from finland!
Having difficulty with my computer. You need a service manual. The standard Evo bore is 3.498. You'll need to consult "Service Wear Limits" in your manual.
james gaskets are the best... my factory harley gasket for rocker covers 3 piece leaked bad ... so i talk to my AT friend Tatro machine in san diego calif, and he said get james gaskets they are thicker.. guess what he was right... its a 1990 FXRP...
I have a 1997 roadking with the evo motor it need a rear base gasket..would I need to hone my cylinder out and put new piston rings on at the same time I do the rear base gasket?
Personally, I would replace both base gaskets, and, not knowing what shape it is in (Evo cylinder bores last and last), I would most likely ball hone the cylinders, replace the rings, lap the valves, replace the valve seals, all the gaskets, and the umbrella valves. If the engine was in good shape, it will now last a long time. Let it warm up real nice before twisting the throttle real far and you won't blow base gaskets.
Doing shovel pistons/rings... No dot on rings anywhere just STD on both on top flat . Piston has no F or larger valve pocket measuring them. Just a eraser size dot on one top side and a little horizontal bar underside piston the same side as the dot. Eagle iron style pistons/Taiwan production. I can send pics if need be... Thanks
The bar on the bottom, is it on the wrist pin boss? If so, it points toward the "cam side" of the motor. If there are no differences in those pistons, even the skirts? I question them. Get a lot of light on the second ring. Look for a taper on the inside. Look for that dot some more.
@@pacificmike9501 It is on the wrist pin boss yes. Ok that clears that up thank you. Ill check the rings and pistons again and get back to you... Thanks... As we get older we overlook things.... 56 going on 80 i feel at times...
@@pacificmike9501 I do see the taper on the inner top of the ring where STD is stamped.. Flat and square on the bottom. There is no dot. The old rings I clearly see a countersunk dot but the new rings only STD on the top side with the inner ring taper. Both the top and second ring are identical in every way I see. No chrome moly top ring here these are parkerized rings if that makes any difference... I get .016 end gap in my jugs I just got back from the machine shop so that looks good. What's your thoughts? Thanks again ...
@@pacificmike9501 Ok so the bevel is topside on both top and second ring. No dot on these and I see no difference in the two rings at all. The old rings I took out has the dot on the second ring and if you compare them both they look identical. What's supposed to be different between the top and second ring? I've looked over these new rings and they appear identical to me. Both have the inner chamfered edge and both have STD on top. I see no other difference between the two. The oil rings are simple and im using the evo ring orientation to put them on like you do. I'm just curious about what's supposed to be different in the top and second ring since they appear to be identical in every way. I'm guessing as long as I put them in with the bevel chamfered Edge facing up in the right orientation I should be fine...
@@pacificmike9501 I called the company I got my parts from and these are NOS Parts made by Superior that apparently was supplied Dixie long ago. They are very similar to The Eagle iron Pistons that were in this motor when I took it apart. Maybe that info will Enlighten us on the style of the piston and also the Rings and possibly give us some information...
Hey Mike I am enjoying your videos. I like that everything is minty clean the only oil and grease is what you apply . And oh ya has anyone ever told you that you look like Tommy Chong from Cheech and Chong.. hahaha. Certainly not meant to be an insult..
Generally speaking the dot indicates installation of it facing up. This usually puts the "chamfer" on the second ring in the proper direction. If I seem a little vague, it's because again, go according to the ring manufacturer's instructions, get out your magnifying glass, have a look at that ring, and you'll get it.
i think end gap on a ring is .004 for every one inch of Bore... at least it is on a truck/car engine. i have Built Hundreds of them in my Garage to pay my rent... Haha...
Good "rules of thumb." But, I build a lot of "special purpose" stuff. By that I mean, it may be for racing. It may be a special piston. It may generate a lot more heat than usual for the components I'm using. I go pretty much by the manufacturer's recommendations, with a little more for the individual who's going to ride it.
that 2nd ring has a dot for identifying that it has a special cut on the lower side of the ring for presser i think... some have a step cut others have a angle cut in it , don't ever mix them up ... just say'n
It depends on the piston. If it is a Harley Davidson supplied piston, use Harley's recommendation. If it is another brand, the manufacturer should give you their specification. This is all based on the fact that it is an air cooled engine and the fact that each manufacturer that makes pistons uses their own alloy which will have a different expansion rate.
I’d rather pay you twice as much and take 5 times as long to do a job for me. You pay attention to detail and it shows a true love for your craft. Great series!
Thank you. I am just having a nice time.
Thanks for all the schooling Mike. I like your patience. I like that you reference the tech manual, It's important to me to be part of your machine, you show that in all your vids. Thanks
You bet!
Attention to detail is your deal .Watching your videos gives me the confidence in working on my own stuff ,instead of taking it to the Stealership.Thank You!
Glad to help
Thank you from Southern New Jersey Mike. I've watched your videos over and over and they have given me the confidence and knowledge to rebuild my 97' evo. Keep up the awsome videos, they help us 1st timers more that you know!
Glad to help. Thank You for watching.
I've watched the whole build so far I own a 97 dyna lowrider and I'd like to learn as much as possible and you are doing that thank you
It"s all there. You'll find it on our TH-cam Homepage.
@@pacificmike9501 yes I've been watching you are a Harley wiz they way your able to explain things the way you do is incredible
Thank You.
I'm tearing down the motor on my fxr for the first time. Your videos are a huge help!!
Rock on!
Enjoye watching your watching your video .
Do not know much ..Learning Watching you
Teach..Thank YOU ..
Thank you.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Tell Bobby to get ready because this engine is about ready to fire up.:) Very much enjoyed.
Thank you. Bobby's getting ready. I'm not done yet, Bobby, Put your jacket back in the closet.
I do like the collection of tools you have.
Thank You. It's taken a long time, but worth all of it to me.
Mike,,,well explained about ring position,,
Thank you.
Mike...been following your channel for a while....loving every video. You are the most Zen mechanic I've ever seen. Keep the videos coming!
Wow, thanks!
I appreciate the detail you go through on your videos. I'm definitely subscribing to your site. Thank you!!
Thanks and welcome
One thing I have always been intimidated by. Fitting rings and Pistons, great video!
Thank You.
I joy the info and videos
Thank you.
Another great video! I really like your thorough and calm/cool approach. I’m learning a lot from your videos! Thank you!
Cool. Thank you.
another informative video mike well done keep them coming
Thank you.
Awesome video!
Thak you.
Better to take your time and do it right ! Mine blew up on me . A valve stuck open and destroyed the piston and of course the head . I had to tear the motor apart down to removing the right case to remove shrapnel , but I left the crank pressed into the left case . Put it all back together with a new piston and cylinder and she runs fine now . Took me six months working a couple hours here and there .
And, you did it. Very cool.
Nice work sir!
Thank you.
The new career building this Evo engine for the rest of my life, Mom & Dad 😆
A nice motor takes time.
Loved the level of detail. Also, I think I'm going to spring for the Hastings brand rings.
Please do! Thank You.
That's what the factory uses.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you.
Very satisfying to watch, thanks Mike! But where have the conrods gone all of a sudden?
Thank You. But, I don't understand the question.
Thanks.
You're welcome
Since you're retired, can you recommend someone that can rebuild my 97 Evo?
No, I apologize, but a lot of things are up in the air. Plenty people retiring. Waiting to see who we've got now.
I've wondered for a long time about ring positioning. Gaps should not overlap, very important, I get that. But what makes the rings to stay at their place? Isn't there a risk that the rings starts to move by them self when the motor is running?
Not much. Cylinder bores are round. Rings have no reason to change their
position. They break in and fit themselves. The design work that goes into piston rings is very scientific and very extensive. I once sat through a seminar on piston rings presented by one of the major manufacturers. It was way over my head.
Interesting. Were the gaps in line with each other? If so, the cylinder was not round. This could start a whole new discussion.
Is the Evo motors have Dome Pistons being hemispherical combustion chamber thank you please tell me when you build anything either absolutely correct or it is wrong great job check and recheck you're the greatest craftsmanship in finest
We try. Thank You
@@pacificmike9501 1975 Super Glide 6 over front in the frame has been rake how much over own a Springer front end do I do 6 in /
You need more measurements. Look up in geometry. The pathagorean theory (I probably misspelled that) will help you calculate what you need.
Hey Mike. Just a suggestion: explain why the end gab clearence are so important (heat expansion) so peapol don't mess it up. Also why the dot on the second ring are important.
Greetings from Denmark
Greetings from the U.S.A. We've answered it in comments, but, need to address that in the videos.
Thank you....
Thank you.
Hi Mike, I'm probably just being a worry wort, but: Does it matter which way the tangs on the oil control ring spacer go? Some say they must face down, others say they must face up. Appreciate the help
Follow the book. Follow the instructions with the rings. If it isn't mentioned, it doesn't matter.
Mike, I'm at final hone on my Evo cylinders and both cylinders are between +.005" & +.010" oversize (3.509"). My +.010" hastings ring set leaves me with a .020" ring gap on my compression ring which is right at the maximum threshold (0.007-0.020" per the manual). Should I be concerned with that or go ahead and slap it together? Thanks for sharing! Love your channel!
Did you bore it ten over? Are your pistons ten over? Always consult your service manual and look at "service wear limits." I don't know exactly what you have here. Thank you, but I hate to give out bad advice. Again, not sure what you have.
Mike, apparently 0.0.020" end gap is perfectly fine for my particular bore of 3.509" per Hastings. Thanks for the assistance.
Hello Mike, I’m building my own evo motor and can’t find out which pistons/bores I have. My pistons have that same STD-4 mark on top of the piston. Does that mean it is .040 oversize? Thank you for you videos and greetings from finland!
Measure the piston where the factory manual says to measure it. That would be down on the skirt. pistons
Having difficulty with my computer. You need a service manual. The standard Evo bore is 3.498. You'll need to consult "Service Wear Limits" in your manual.
Génial
Thank You.
Try some lint free rags for final assembly.
Oh, Okay.
Mike what brand of gaskets would you recommend. I’m rebuilding a 1980 shovelhead. Thanks
Sorry, I can't recommend brands.
james gaskets are the best... my factory harley gasket for rocker covers 3 piece leaked bad ... so i talk to my AT friend Tatro machine in san diego calif, and he said get james gaskets they are thicker.. guess what he was right... its a 1990 FXRP...
Random question. If you chrome your cases are you likely to run into overheating issues?
They will run hotter.
Thank you sir. Your videos are great.
I have a 1997 roadking with the evo motor it need a rear base gasket..would I need to hone my cylinder out and put new piston rings on at the same time I do the rear base gasket?
Personally, I would replace both base gaskets, and, not knowing what shape it is in (Evo cylinder bores last and last), I would most likely ball hone the cylinders, replace the rings, lap the valves, replace the valve seals, all the gaskets, and the umbrella valves. If the engine was in good shape, it will now last a long time. Let it warm up real nice before twisting the throttle real far and you won't blow base gaskets.
Hey was wondering what the ring clock position was on a 1340 evolution?
The diagram is in the motor part (section 3) of the Harley Davidson Evolution service manuals.
@@pacificmike9501Thank you much appreciated.
Mike, what oil you find works best from experience? Harley oil, Castrol, Amsoil etc? Please share your experience and preference
I'm sorry. I don't plug brands.
Doing shovel pistons/rings... No dot on rings anywhere just STD on both on top flat . Piston has no F or larger valve pocket measuring them. Just a eraser size dot on one top side and a little horizontal bar underside piston the same side as the dot. Eagle iron style pistons/Taiwan production. I can send pics if need be... Thanks
The bar on the bottom, is it on the wrist pin boss? If so, it points toward the "cam side" of the motor. If there are no differences in those pistons, even the skirts? I question them. Get a lot of light on the second ring. Look for a taper on the inside. Look for that dot some more.
@@pacificmike9501 It is on the wrist pin boss yes. Ok that clears that up thank you. Ill check the rings and pistons again and get back to you... Thanks... As we get older we overlook things.... 56 going on 80 i feel at times...
@@pacificmike9501 I do see the taper on the inner top of the ring where STD is stamped.. Flat and square on the bottom. There is no dot. The old rings I clearly see a countersunk dot but the new rings only STD on the top side with the inner ring taper. Both the top and second ring are identical in every way I see. No chrome moly top ring here these are parkerized rings if that makes any difference... I get .016 end gap in my jugs I just got back from the machine shop so that looks good. What's your thoughts? Thanks again ...
@@pacificmike9501 Ok so the bevel is topside on both top and second ring. No dot on these and I see no difference in the two rings at all. The old rings I took out has the dot on the second ring and if you compare them both they look identical. What's supposed to be different between the top and second ring? I've looked over these new rings and they appear identical to me. Both have the inner chamfered edge and both have STD on top. I see no other difference between the two. The oil rings are simple and im using the evo ring orientation to put them on like you do. I'm just curious about what's supposed to be different in the top and second ring since they appear to be identical in every way. I'm guessing as long as I put them in with the bevel chamfered Edge facing up in the right orientation I should be fine...
@@pacificmike9501 I called the company I got my parts from and these are NOS Parts made by Superior that apparently was supplied Dixie long ago. They are very similar to The Eagle iron Pistons that were in this motor when I took it apart. Maybe that info will Enlighten us on the style of the piston and also the Rings and possibly give us some information...
Hey Mike I am enjoying your videos. I like that everything is minty clean the only oil and grease is what you apply .
And oh ya has anyone ever told you that you look like Tommy Chong from Cheech and Chong.. hahaha. Certainly not meant to be an insult..
Thank You. Being a fan of Tommy Chong, I like that.
i do this with touge plates on
Good idea.
I'm the kind of person that has to know "why"? Why the dots on the middle Ring ? Otherwise I like your teaching style ! 👍
Generally speaking the dot indicates installation of it facing up. This usually puts the "chamfer" on the second ring in the proper direction. If I seem a little vague, it's because again, go according to the ring manufacturer's instructions, get out your magnifying glass, have a look at that ring, and you'll get it.
i think end gap on a ring is .004 for every one inch of Bore... at least it is on a truck/car engine. i have Built Hundreds of them in my Garage to pay my rent... Haha...
Good "rules of thumb." But, I build a lot of "special purpose" stuff. By that I mean, it may be for racing. It may be a special piston. It may generate a lot more heat than usual for the components I'm using. I go pretty much by the manufacturer's recommendations, with a little more for the individual who's going to ride it.
that 2nd ring has a dot for identifying that it has a special cut on the lower side of the ring for presser i think... some have a step cut others have a angle cut in it , don't ever mix them up ... just say'n
Yes. Always check the manufacturers instructions. On the second ring, the dot generally goes up. Again, check the manufacturers instructions.
Hi. What should be the correct clearence for the piston in the cilinder in a 3.5 + 010" piston.
It depends on the piston. If it is a Harley Davidson supplied piston, use Harley's recommendation. If it is another brand, the manufacturer should give you their specification. This is all based on the fact that it is an air cooled engine and the fact that each manufacturer that makes pistons uses their own alloy which will have a different expansion rate.
Thanks . It is a jcc brand piston but the piston measure is 0.004 " less than 3.5 inches. Is that cotrect?
Well the piston i have now is + 010 and it is 3.506" so i should bore to 3.510. Is that 004 " right for a harley
Can you give me harley's recommendations for it
What is the motor? Different clearances for different motors.
Don't want to subscribe im already a bit dingy and don't need mike adding more dings in my head . Lol
Okayfine.
I hope you are having a good day MIKE AND ALSO CAMERAMAN MIKE TO
It's a great day. Wishing you one.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you.