A big thanks for this video, our 2013 Astra 2.0 cdti GTC had the SES error and following this video tracked it back to vermin having eaten the top off the little centre blanking pipe on the EGR cooler vacuum block. Fitted a replacement length of pipe blanked with an M8 screw Job done :) Codes cleared fingers crossed (though everything looking good with good vacuum and turbo actuator moving as it should) .
Thank God I saw this video👍😂 My desired presure ant boost sensor behave like in this situation. Was breaking my thoughts after checked everything, where might be that loss. Will connect definitely with the t-piece, so turbo actuator solenoid will get vacuum straight from vacuum pump. That egr cooler where all vacuum comes out are such a pain to many insignia owners. You are a genius!!!
Found this video after doing all the same tests you did, was hoping someone could tell me what that big stupid plastic lump is. I'm guessing it's a way moderating the vacuum from the pump to prevent overboost. Great fix though, worked like a charm for me. Coincidentally I had to do this on a time limit as the guy was going on holiday lol. Great job. Wish I could give this more likes.
Top job Sandy, you and Roddy got to the bottom of the problem, the guy will probably leave the permanent temporary fix if the light stays out , well done guys 👍👍👍
Hey, is that plastic box thing the vacuum pipes go in to not an accumulator? A search online says it's an EGR cooler housing which I find strange. Why would it have vacuum hoses going in?
That valve you bypassed is the N18 egr solenoid. I think you've cracked the problem - the amount of siggys with this issue and everyone is throwing turbos and sensors at them. I've come to the conclusion that a faulty N18 might be dumping vacuum to the egr cooler actuator thus robbing the vnt actuator of the vacuum it needs to control the vanes. I've noticed with mine, only in 2nd gear if I boost it then let off I can hear a metallic scrape noise. Sounds just like the vanes snapping shut under the actuator spring tension rapidly because vacuum was dumped by the N18. I'm not sure if further, it might be possible that if say the vanes are fully open when the vacuum holding them open is lost due to the N18, would the pressure of the exhaust gases while still boosting in that split second keep them open momentarily from the pressure of the gases, which will then cause the MAP to throw a p0234? I think either way, you found a fantastic solution in the interim.
I have a 1.6 Diesel 2020 Model Opel Insignia vehicle. And the P0299 error code does not go away. My vehicle is on a ramp and bottom throttle goes into error in 3rd and 4th gears. Turbo overhaul, Particle filter overhaul. Map and Egr valves changed. Air filter changed. But the problem did not go away. How can I solve the problem
Great video, i had the same issue on my insignia. Tried this and car is operating as it should!!! do you know what the part is thats failed?? so i can get a replacement. Many Thanks @sandyande
@Grant Ben ive been looking at them but only ones i find are the ones with the 3 vacuum lines? did you end up finding with 2 or just 3 and blocking one off? thanks
@@notsure599 Hi m8 my insignia is a 2015 and already has a rubber plug for the middle line( mine is a 3 line vacuum) ,so i just used that. Im guessing any plug will work.
My 2013 year 1,6 CDTI has no torque under 2000 rpm. It's really difficult to get car moving on slight uphill without stalling it. Do you think that this problem could be my engine as well. There's no fault code on.
A big thanks for this video, our 2013 Astra 2.0 cdti GTC had the SES error and following this video tracked it back to vermin having eaten the top off the little centre blanking pipe on the EGR cooler vacuum block. Fitted a replacement length of pipe blanked with an M8 screw Job done :) Codes cleared fingers crossed (though everything looking good with good vacuum and turbo actuator moving as it should) .
Thank God I saw this video👍😂 My desired presure ant boost sensor behave like in this situation. Was breaking my thoughts after checked everything, where might be that loss. Will connect definitely with the t-piece, so turbo actuator solenoid will get vacuum straight from vacuum pump.
That egr cooler where all vacuum comes out are such a pain to many insignia owners.
You are a genius!!!
Thorough diagnostic, nice T piece fix.
Cheers Matt, Sandy
Found this video after doing all the same tests you did, was hoping someone could tell me what that big stupid plastic lump is. I'm guessing it's a way moderating the vacuum from the pump to prevent overboost.
Great fix though, worked like a charm for me. Coincidentally I had to do this on a time limit as the guy was going on holiday lol. Great job. Wish I could give this more likes.
Cheers for comments 👍
The large plastic lump with the 3 vaccum inputs (one being blanked off) is the egr cooler vacuum housing
Top job Sandy, you and Roddy got to the bottom of the problem, the guy will probably leave the permanent temporary fix if the light stays out , well done guys 👍👍👍
Cheers Mike, he was going to Blackpool for a wee holiday so that's probably now his least priority 😜
That’s the clear indication of pressure control solenoid valve I have replaced 3 times and it works fine for a year or so
@5:00 - man, I love the Scots
Hey, is that plastic box thing the vacuum pipes go in to not an accumulator?
A search online says it's an EGR cooler housing which I find strange. Why would it have vacuum hoses going in?
That valve you bypassed is the N18 egr solenoid. I think you've cracked the problem - the amount of siggys with this issue and everyone is throwing turbos and sensors at them.
I've come to the conclusion that a faulty N18 might be dumping vacuum to the egr cooler actuator thus robbing the vnt actuator of the vacuum it needs to control the vanes.
I've noticed with mine, only in 2nd gear if I boost it then let off I can hear a metallic scrape noise. Sounds just like the vanes snapping shut under the actuator spring tension rapidly because vacuum was dumped by the N18.
I'm not sure if further, it might be possible that if say the vanes are fully open when the vacuum holding them open is lost due to the N18, would the pressure of the exhaust gases while still boosting in that split second keep them open momentarily from the pressure of the gases, which will then cause the MAP to throw a p0234?
I think either way, you found a fantastic solution in the interim.
Cheers for your information, Sandy
Great video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Well done lads I have the same problem 👍
Great find Sandy. 👍
Cheers Graz, Sandy
Nice job lads.
Hi where are you based I need something similar looking at my zafira tourer please
Guys, what will be the permanent solution for this? Is it replacing the vacuum tank? or the egr pressure solenoid on top of the tank? Thank you.
What's the black vacuum valve the tube was connected to called?
I have a 1.6 Diesel 2020 Model Opel Insignia vehicle. And the P0299 error code does not go away. My vehicle is on a ramp and bottom throttle goes into error in 3rd and 4th gears. Turbo overhaul, Particle filter overhaul. Map and Egr valves changed. Air filter changed. But the problem did not go away. How can I solve the problem
Vauxhall Insignia CDTI - Fault Code P0299 Engine underboost
th-cam.com/video/AbrYrdT1qqw/w-d-xo.html
Great video, i had the same issue on my insignia. Tried this and car is operating as it should!!! do you know what the part is thats failed?? so i can get a replacement. Many Thanks @sandyande
its the egr cooler/Vacuum reservoir
@@notsure599 i worked it out, via another video. part replaced and no "temp fix" now TY for the responce 👍👍
@Grant Ben ive been looking at them but only ones i find are the ones with the 3 vacuum lines? did you end up finding with 2 or just 3 and blocking one off?
thanks
@@notsure599 Hi m8 my insignia is a 2015 and already has a rubber plug for the middle line( mine is a 3 line vacuum)
,so i just used that. Im guessing any plug will work.
On the block you were taking about is the bung on there known fix theses can fall off
Thanks Simon will check it out
My 2013 year 1,6 CDTI has no torque under 2000 rpm. It's really difficult to get car moving on slight uphill without stalling it. Do you think that this problem could be my engine as well. There's no fault code on.
Sounds like a turbo issue
I have the same issue with my vauxhall, how much would it cost to get this fixed? Or would you recommend using the method you used with the T piece?
did you end up getting it done. have the exact same issue on mine cheers mate
what size is the tee where can i get 1
I got my t piece like in the video from the range in the car section
Well figured out
Cheers David, Sandy
What do you reckon is causing the slow starting?
Probably glow plugs or fuel pressure