This Mod was SIMPLE... and yet I completely FAILED...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- I tried to make a custom NVLink bridge and I completely failed at it...
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You could have the gold bridge chrome vinyl wrapped, being a car guy you may know someone already who does vinyl wrapping.
Ive actually already started on that idea. Great minds think alike.
@@Jayztwocents indeed, good deal my man
This is what I was thinking while watching. I did a chrome vinyl wrap on my V-3000 project.
@@Jayztwocents hey Jay, i mentioned this on the previous video but not sure if you saw it, have you considered using glass tubbing for this build?
I chrome wrapped a guitar hero controller lol I think it works pretty good
Shout out to Phil with that lowkey beautiful Borderlands pop-up flex.
had to find a torgue one because EXPLOSIONS
The Unkempt Harold card
And it's a DoPe :)
cameraguy needs to just stfu, for just one video, but he cant.
he MUST let himself be heard through a laugh or whataver else.
2 weeks 😁
Consumer grade liquid chrome sucks, always. It'll never dry out and harden completely, it'll always be prone to fingerprints and scratching, you can never ever clean it, because contacting it, even if it's "dry" (as dry as it'll get anyway), will make it go matte, and clearing over it will also make it go matte. And, even if you manage to never ever touch it, it'll still just go matte over time. It utterly sucks for these sorts of applications.
My suggestion, instead of going with that liquid chrome, use a chrome foil. With a heat gun, it's incredibly easy to apply as it'll just shape exactly to the plastics.
Also, if you want that white LED, just use the PCB from the gold bridge. :)
i've seen a few vids on the "alsa easy chrome" kit and by far it's probably the best (and most expensive) out there.
I mean I've used molotow on my models for a few years now and they're all still a high chrome finish.
3:00 - "RGB is just made of 3 different LEDS, a White LED...ummm" - JayzTwoCents
I love you bro ♥
Honestly, mistakes make the video, I'm glad you leave them in 🙏
anyone else just sit through 13 minutes of jay painting an SLI bridge? yeah we need stuff to do lol
👋
I was taking a shit while watching. Time well spent I think.
That liquid chrome stuff looks awesome, I wonder if you can add something to it to accelerate it's hardening. Or, just do what Adam Savage does and hide all your mistakes with weathering 😁
Jay secretly still takes baths so he can play with toy boats.
What’s wrong with boats?
Why would you keep that secret :))
LMAO
Submarines are better except when you sit on the periscope. Ouch!!!!
At first it seemed like an improvisation into unveiling their sponsor.
That Borderlands "Super Ultra NVLINK Bridge" was a very nice touch : )
im trying to figure out what gun that was.
@@typehazard It was a Double Penetrating Unkempt Harold from BL2. Used the crap out of that gun with Salvador.
I am absolutely loving this long term series showing a passion project come to life. Seeing some ideas work, some fail is making me want to mod my tower at the house just for fun.
Do a Borderlands themed build. It would look sick with that nvlink bridge.
One of the things that you may want to look in to when using the Molotow chrome is putting a clear over it, it dulls after time I found. If I remember right one of the clears that I found that worked good with it was Alclad II Lacquers Gloss Klear Kote. Hope that this helps along with the project
The day a JayzTwoCents video is sponsored by ifixit will be quite the day.
About the liquid chrome, I had used that for one of my projects and it still wasn't dry to touch after 2 weeks of waiting.
After searching through several places (and getting recommendations on Gaia Color's GP-08 chrome paint), I decided to just use send it to a friend of mine to get it chrome plated instead.
before I paint plastic parts, I spray them down with a mild solvent based brake cleaner. it gets the injection mold oils off the part.
Painting plastics can be such a pain in the butt.
I just use acetone for everything. :/ #PlebLyfe
@@Megalomaniakaal This can really destroy the surface finish of some plastics though. It might be best to test on a hidden spot if you are uncertain.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 Yeah, I know. I just cant be bothered to go buy anything special for it. I suppose I have some IPA and turpentine I can use in some situations, for plastic the Isopropyl alcohol is probably best out of those.
I still go old school soap and water and a old tooth brush, never had a problem doing it this way, it might be extra work, but models and mini painting is just a hobby for me to unwind and relax.
To be fair though I still freaking hand brush when it comes to painting, I don't see anything wrong with it, I tend to spend more money on other hobbies and my family.
Yout respect for over spray makes me so happy. So many people dont understand it gets EVERYWHERE! Krylon is only good for plastics 👍🏼otherwise its not good paint.
Jay, I love your "not a sponsor" iFixit as a general rule...but this one was the best. Love it!
That intro with Phil laughing his ass off is still gold every time I watch it.
In general, Phil is an incredible buddy for Jay imo. He makes the content so much better with his personality and the edits.
Props to both of You! Keep it up and thanks for making all these vids!
Thumbs for the Unkempt Harold.
+1 for Craft Computing!
Thanks!
That double penetrating unkempt harold tho
Was a bit weird for him to mention the website but not the channel.
Alclad chrome. Put a good gloss black coat first. Then shoot it with the alclad. Check out chroming some gundam models. They do amazing jobs.
My favorite combo is black vallejo primer, followed with either Alclad chrome or Duraluminum, then the Holomatic spectral chrome for even more shine. Unfortunately, the fumes from all the lacquers are awful.
Is that the stuff that can be easily polished to a mirror finish?
@@Nidkidful With great chrome comes great fumes!
@@Roche_Furman The finish is really up to the smoothness of the glossy black and the control of the flow of the chroming paint. They do buff them sometimes to reduce the haze.
The first comment to mention one of the only airbrushing chromes on the market that actually work with alclad 2 chrome it all depends on the smoothness of the base coat black and how you polish them afterwards I’d have gone for alc124 which is the black chrome it’s the better looking one of the three they do
Jay in your modeling do you ever use rub n buff. Like put it on a rag and wipe it on corners and edges? It will give things a more weathered look like it’s been used/worn
3:45 in german it’s ‘GEFECHTSSTATION’
Donaudampfschifffahrtselektrizitätenhauptbetriebswerkbauunterbeamtengesellschaft
@@user-zu6ts5fb6g^ this is one word btw
HANZ
GET ZE TORPEDOS
Isnt that incorrect? He is literally talking about the cannons on top. Not the battle station. It should be "kanone". Gefechtsstation is just battle station(s).
@@swordtofdamocles It does not describe the station itself. It is used to alarm the fighters. "Gefechtsstation!" is the order to get ready for battle and get armed and ready to shoot.
I know what you mean about airbrushes, I finally got an Iwata-Medea High Performance Plus BC Dual Action / Bottle Feed and love it.
The problem is the "Skin" of the paint is drying/hardening but the underlying layers are not. That is why it doesn't transfer but still shows finger marks and such. You heatgun method dried it because it cooked the lower layers but it probably boiled them and made them pop through the top layer. Maybe a controlled drying process. Spray Booths often have a "Bake" cycle to slowly ramp the heat up and down to rapidly dry paint jobs. Maybe some type of Toaster Oven set to a really low temperature? It is all about temperature control and time.
That said, I am not familiar with that specific product. Just basing off my second hand automotive knowledge. I'm a car builder but not a painter.
This series is awesome! I'm really excited to see it finished!
I've used liquid chrome plenty. While it might take 2 weeks to achieve maximum hardness it's considered cured and ready for clear coating in 48 hours. Having said that very few clear coats work well with it. Almost all either cut the shine to nothing or cause a reaction and create haze or bubbling. I've had pretty good results with using pledge.
That old spice ad 😆
"What are you doing?"
"Are you still watching this?"
"What kind of computer do you have?"
If I remember correctly a heat gun is a paint stripper and caulking remover, and that is what you showed in the footage (paint stripping). When I dry paint I am careful how close to the surface I get so I do not apply an excess amount of heat.
Msi makes a gun metal nvlink bridge. I know you wanted chrome but the msi one looks pretty nice actually
The last couples of frames from the video are so worth checking out 😂
_(use , and ; after pausing the vid)_
I have used chrome paints for over 20 years. The quility has never really improved and the paint never really hardened. I have a backplate for a kabinet that i gave a mirror finish with chrome paint eight years ago, it still shows fingerprints if you touch it. Good for indoor use if it never gets touched.
Jay, check out C1 Metalizer. It's a powder you put on over something like a gloss black primer and then buff. It'll give you a much nicer chrome look than any paint ever could!
Molotow Liquid Chrome is legit the best next to Alclad's chrome. But it definitely does take AT LEAST 2 weeks to cure. You can still leave fingerprints in it even after a week (speaking from experience). The trade-off is it actually looks like plated chrome, unlike most other "chrome" paints.
It's very defiant to drying, indeed.
@@alb9022 XD
As other people have suggested, why didn't you just vinyl wrap the NVLink bridge? Not only would it have been faster, but also much easier to remove later on for other projects.
On the note of "drying the paint", I'm thinking a dry cabinet might work? The cabinet usually used to store cameras and lenses, and using electricity to actively keeping the humidity inside it very low (dry).
Or even an airtight container with fresh silica gels inside it might work the same.
Watching Jay work is fun, sill, informative, and a train wreck all at the same time
The bloopers at the end cracked me up! It's one of the reasons I love this channel also Phil out dad joking Jay was amazing.
I respect the attention to every little detail of this build even when it takes so long.
Alclad II Chrome on a black gloss undercoat (you can also use Alclad II Gloss Black Base. They are solvent based, ready thinned and you can use them directly from the bottle into the airbrush. Black base is dry in an hour or so, Chrome is completely dry in about a day.
5:17 lol I've been playing a lot of Borderlands this summer (trying to play through as every character). I'm not into comic books at all, but I love how they've used the art style in the games.
Jay you should try 0000 steel wool to polish up your stuff, if I'm not mistaken it might a little better then the wet sanding.
Interesting....I to still build (armor) models as a adult, and put some of those techniques towards computer mods. I use acrylic paints from Tamiya and use rubbing alcohol as a reducer. Not sure how it works with gloss but is worth a shot.
If I'm not mistaken, that's a Neo iwata airbrush, which is about as entry level as you can go without buying literal crap.
I know this because it's what I use. In fact, our setups are identical except for the fact that I understand that a spray booth that just blows the fumes back into the room is kinda pointless.
For the NV Link bridge with the green light.. this probably means that the green wire is only one with current running through it, so if you want to do the nebula, purple theme.. cut the green wire and wire the red and blue wires in it's place. and the gold one with the white led prob has current to all, so cut the green.
Only Jay could make a video about painting an NV Link bridge interesting. You go man.........you go! :)
You should try chrome paint made by Mr.paint (not the gunze one). It is not the absolute best chrome finish of them all, but due to it being lacquer it is hard as nails and it dryes in a few seconds. Also good practice is to spray chrome on a layer of gloss varnish on top of black since you can polish the varnish without damaging the underlaying black to achieve perfectly smooth base for the chrome.
Hi. So I just wanted to say a quick thank you; because after gaining knowledge from watching your videos, today I was able to successfully finish building, and set up, my first gaming PC (and must I say, it looks bloody sexeh). Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put in to your videos as I could not have done this without them. Keep up the amazing work :)
SPAZ STIX Mirror chrome, airbrush or rattle can. I've used it in my RC truck body's and it holds up.
really enjoying this build/modding series. Great job Jay!
We want JayzTwoShips; a model ship review channel
It's too late to tell you now, but you could've got some intermediate gauzy agent from ak interactive and used that to clear coat the molotow it ever so slightly takes away from the shine but it gives it a hard protective finish, you can apply it few hours after the molotow and it's dry itself in another few hours.
That sanded bracket looks cell shaded. I love that!
You could use gloss black undercoat, and alclad II paints (whichever chrome color you like). This is the best combo, but the undercoat needs to be perfect. And use low pressure.
I dunno if you're familiar with 1shot but it's amazing enamel. Their silver needs to be thoroughly shaken but it's so dang pretty. I thin their not metallics with fish oil and it takes 24 hours to dry but I mean it's the best stuff ever. Depending on the surface Marsh Ink T- grade is an amazing black ink.
Molotov is a nice chrome finish but it is a very delicate product. If you read about fast drying times those people probably used mr leveling thinner or the tamiya lacquer thinner, both cellulose based thinners. If you leave it in it's bare finish it will always be touch sensitive and it will turn dull. Clearcoating it is no use because it then turns into a fine pigmented silver finish, a trait which can be used to create a candy finish with clear colours like tamiya has.
All that being said about molotov, since you are in the US and a modeller, maybe give bare-metal foil a try ? Readily available in the U.S. and it gives a true metal finish and it's very much like wrapping it without adding any real thickness to it since the foils are very thin.
This is the kind of quality content I come to this channel for!
KSP is a great game. Nebula is a good name for the build
Props to Tamiya. Among the best model making tools.
I just discovered their teeny tiny cotton buds and they are friggin life savers for detail work.
The thing is that there’s a difference between drying and curing. Paint can dry to the touch in a short amount of time but take days or weeks to fully outgas and cure. Where it will be dry to the touch for light handling but will still be soft enough to where it will smudge and leave fingerprints if you handle it hard enough. When I used to paint show cars and even jets in the Air Force we’d always finish painting on a Friday to it would have at least 48 hours over the weekend to outgas and cure before anything or anyone would touch it at all even though the pain was dry to the touch within a couple of hours of spraying.
Hay Jay I build models also if u want a good chrome alclad ii's chrome is epic and it will dry in about an hour and its airbrush ready. The only down side is that u have to have a gloss black base for it
You could try using Aluminum tape. You can apply it and then polish the tape and get a really nice chrome look. Plus no drying time.
A coat of Alclad Glass Klear Kote or Aqua Gloss helps protect it, though it dulls out the chrome justtt a touch. I think Adam Savage on Tested or Punished Prop Academy talked about using it to prevent those sad dings that happen
I'm building my first custom loop. I plan on using G12 antifreeze as the cooling liquid. Do you think that's a good idea?
Might ultraviolet light help the paint dry? I know with nail polish that is dry but still wet, a UV light sets the paint after a few minutes.
Highlight of the video for me was what I think is the KMS Bismarck model. Also Jay making boat sounds.
And the fart sounds.
I'd love to see Jay's collection of ship models.
Anyone else get the feeling that Phil adding in all the goofy cuts actually shows Jay's personality better? :)
Easy spray booth for airbrushing models.
Get a Home Depot bathroom vanity.
They usually have one or 2 damaged ones for cheap.
Furnace filters, PVC pipe with holes, and a shop vac will work.
Oh, and use Testors model paint.
while you are at lowes or whatever you can get a 20"x20" filter that is the exact size of your box fan which might work better and you can get a good quality one for a couple bucks
I'm just completely dying at the "TO ZE GAAAAAANZ" part I can't breathe
have you tried using a heat lamp to set the liquid chrome stuff, that is similar to some auto paint processes that need a low volume heat source that is less destructive than a heat gun.
Oh cool, Craft Computing. Jeff is a cool dude!
Actually Adam Savage from Tested uses chrome paints alot on his props. And he uses aluminum tape on large flat surfaces as you can buff it quite well. You might consider contacting him on that topic.
Makes me kinda curious if you could 3d scan the front clamshell and get the party custom machined form a solid block of aluminium that is polished to a mirror shine...
How about using some bare metal foil on a bridge? Easy to apply and it can (with some work) be removed again, and the finish is great
iFixit Kit spreaders are nice and all, but if you plan on doing a lot of case modding/electronics repair, go to Amazon and buy a 100-pack of black nylon spudgers and a set of "chrome" plated or nylon pry tools. Those plastic parts in the iFixit kits will wear out pretty quick,
A possible way to chrome it on the cheap, aluminum ducting/foil tape. Then once it's on, polish it.
lol its a German boat....Auf Gefechtsstation!!!!!! Your bridge looked gr8 after sanding it with 200 grit, the weathered look was nice...with a clear coat, you would get a nice look!!
asus rog nvlink is chrome and black, im sure it will fit your theme. btw in the pictures it kinda looks full black but its actually not. just turn off the rgb and you get a very beautiful and clean mirror finish without any logo "the beauty of RGB is that you can turn it off"
Jay you should try very chill videos on your ship model building that would be dope and that Bismarck looks amazing! The Secondary King of the Seas.
I think the people saying two weeks to dry are talking about full cure cycle. Most acrylic are 7 day cure and urethane's usually take 14 days to cure. But both usually are dry to the touch in s fee hours or less and with light duty should be fine.
Are you able to build an pressurized loop after the principle of a fridge?
pre-sanding promotes paint adhesion, while it does make it smoother, after you sand you need to wipe it down with grease and wax remover while wearing gloves so you dont add oils to it afterward, when ready to paint use a tack cloth to wipe it to remove any air born debris that may have landed on it, and then adjust your flow rate on your air brush so it isnt so high, then you want to start spraying a really light coat around all the edges and curves, give it a few mins to set then for a full coat start spraying off of the piece on one side and in one smooth fluid motion move it over the item and stop spraying after the spray goes off the piece on the other side for the next pass you want 50% over hang on the spray that is already down and repeat your next pass from the opposite direction... ie: left to right, right to left, smooth movement and transitions like a machine.... slower is heavier, faster is lighter. you always want the first few coats to be really light so you want to move fast. any good paint job has at least 3 really light coats and 3 medium coats sometimes 5 or 6 if you are adding a candy over a metallic. heavy coats usually result in runs or an uneven finish so try to avoid them unless you can bake the item afterward and plan on cutting and polishing the piece after clear coat and the piece has up to two weeks to cure properly
Why no take the modded housing and the silver screws and put them on the titan bridge ... for the white led?
you could have added thinner to the moltow chrom, It would have dried way quicker but you'd need to do multiple coats
Jay what do you do with completed builds? Leave em lying around?
Will it start to bubble up in an oven or was that just from the blast of the heatgun?
New to the channel, I didn't expect Jay to be a fellow model builder
craft computing also has a TH-cam channel and does some cool stuff if your into computers and beer
I know this is like 2 years old at this point, but Army Painter's model primer works really well on any plastic, yeah its more expensive than other primers, but its 100% worth it.
Thanks guys. Your videos always make me laugh. Keep up the great work!
paint the parts with a conductive copper paint, wet sand it smooth then send it away to get chrome plated, somewhere like LM Chrome (I am from the UK so I cant recommend a plater)
It's perfect Jayz is playing with the Bismarck model while giving orders in English.
Wouldn't have guessed Jay builds plastic models. That's pretty sick!
It's not that difficult to mod the LED to purple, you could buy a purple LED and solder whichever of the colours is receiving power + gnd. Else you could tweak with resistors soldered between the supply and red+ blue led pins on the existing RGB led.
@jaystwocents just a thought Vallejo Metal Air Chrome would hand been perfect and is designed for the brush hardens really fast
Jay is proof that we never grow up fully XD
Hey jay - how about a video showing how to use Precision X1 to get the best performance and/or stability? It's way confusing for newbies.
Brought to you by Dupli-Color Metalcast™ Paint. Avoiding embarrassment since 1938.
if you could figure out a way to get the Asus Rog NV Link to play well with those cards, that might look awesome. I have the same cards, but couldn't get it work play nicely.
That Borderlands edit was just perfect.
That HB bridge actually looks pretty damn good just sanded down on the edges, before paint.. Really like the way that looked! Now I have ideas popping in my head.. or is that my.. err, nevermind.