Intermediate Fiberglass Mold Making Techniques for Carbon Fiber Infusion. (Ep. 61)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2025
- In this video I try out some new resins, fabrics and techniques for making molds for my next carbon fiber parts.
All materials were purchased from Composite Envisions (www.compositeenvisions.com)
Fiberglass surfacing veil - model: F1114 (compositeenvis...)
Fiberglass E-Glass Harness Satin Weave 50"/127cm 3.16oz/107 Gsm Hexcel Style 120 F3 Finish - Model:F-1625 (compositeenvis...)
Fiberglass E-Glass 8 Harness Satin Weave 50"/127cm 8.81oz/299gsm Hexcel Style 7781 F16 Finish - Model:F-1026 (compositeenvis...)
Fiberglass Chopped Strand Mat 50"/127cm 6.75oz Sqyd-0.75oz Sqft/228.87gsm - Model:F-454 (compositeenvis...)
Tooling Polyester Resin Isophthalic 1 Gallon With Hardener MEKP DDM-9
Model:1185-Gallon (compositeenvis...)
Black Tooling Polyester Gelcoat 1 Gallon With Hardener MEKP DDM-9
Model:1187-Gallon (compositeenvis...)
Orange Tooling Polyester Gelcoat With Hardener MEKP DDM-9
Model:1188 (compositeenvis...)
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I love seeing builders I respect getting frustrated. Makes me feel better about my own frustrations when out in the garage. Reminds me that we are all human and you never know what gets left in the editing room when guys on TH-cam are making everything look easy!
None of this is easy! I keep it real so people know how much work this would be to DIY or if you're paying someone and want to know why they charge real money.
I like your honesty. I like that you will admit when you mess up unlike others
There is no point in trying to hide the mistakes. We make them - I hope it helps others that are like me and learning how.
Throttle Stop Garage. Yep. I learn more from people’s mistakes than successes.
I like you used the tubes for reinforcement. Found your vids from a facebook post you made! Great stuff buddy! I've been doing this for a living for almost 25 years and you have progressed so much faster than I did in my past in the learning process! Props
Thanks.
I wish I'd seen this a couple days ago. I started making my first couple molds, and foolishly tackled an interior part that's about 8 times more complicated than your grill on my first attempt. Made the flanges too small as well. Love the channel! You do good work and you're a great educator.
I'm glad it has helped. Too small a flange is the worst scenario!
I love that you are sharing all your knowledge and trial and error! Helps with others that wanna try this themselves on their projects!
Thanks Jordan - trying to help is the point.
Thanks for making and posting your video's on how to Make molds step by step. It is easy to understand and the process explained well on how to re enforce and brace them. When I was younger 18- 19 years old i work in a fiberglass tank shop, we made septic tanks, and water tanks, I learned how to laminate then 2 years later I went to work at a fiberglass boat repair shop, for another 2 years..After that I got into commercial concrete construction... but over the years Learning to laminate fiberglass has come in handy I used what I learned and rebuilt the front clip on a 1977 corvette I had gotten cheap because it was wrecked, and both front fenders were broken in half in the fender wells..I had to graft 2 different front fender off of another wreck corvette to fix it. I am 59 now, I have used what I learned on different things like my 1933 Plymouth sedan,. on smaller parts that were paper thin from rusting, I cleaned them up and laminated the back side with matt and resin to make it thicker and stronger, been on those's parts for over 20 years and has never come lose...Also to repair fiberglass bath tubs and showers..Your video's are some of the best I have seen as far as how to make molds from existing parts. Thanks for posting them...
Thanks for watching them. Love reading the stories of how people have learned and applied their skills to fixing and creating their own projects.
Advanced techniques of mold making are basically the same as what you have been doing, but using materials designed for use in a kiln for setting pre-preg panels under vacuum. Then you can go for insane mold making techniques by looking up some of the mold making methods for building carbon fiber bike frames, where your mold has dozens of alignment pins that are molded in and then twisted out after the mold has been taken, and you also have mold components that are inserts to create undercuts or voids in the final parts, which also get bolted in and require alignment pins to be molded in. Carbon fiber bike frames are an exercise in mold making 4D thinking, because you have to plan so many different interfaces in an inverted configuration while also ensuring that you can place your vacuum bag tubes into the frame and breach them through the primary vacuum bag to atmosphere. The guys who can do that kind of mold-making and cast those bike frames are truly skilled.
Probably the biggest thing I learned was how much craft and experience play in this area. Watching some videos as I noted in one of my first videos, you'd assume it's just slop it on and it'll work out. It's not that easy at all. There is a lot of planning and skill involved, but like a lot of things, those with the skills make it look easy. Bike frames are mesmerizing.
@@ThrottleStopGarage EasyComposites has several helpful videos about mold making and pulling panels off of those molds, including following along with making the molds and pulling a bike from them, making a carbon fiber hood, and also making "forged" carbon fiber parts in a multi-part compression mold. They do have access to quite a large kiln with a vacuum system so they can use pre-preg sheets, so it certainly isn't a 1-1 process that the common home shop tinkerer can follow, but there are some principles that can be carried over about how the panels lay in, how to add additional structure, how to plan molds and inserts, etc. I really appreciate when companies believe enough in their products that they want to spread the knowledge of how to use them in videos like that.
Complicated to the un experienced for sure. I think the best advice I would pass along from your videos to a newbie like me would be to build some small/easy parts first , then progress to the harder ones. I have really learned a lot on my first few attempts.
Thanks again for your reply.- Keep up the good videos.
Very true! That's what I did sort of - I progressed from a small unseen panel to fenders. Probably a little too far too fast, but it was fine.
lovely stuff
By chance I came across your videos as you was starting making the fiberglas mold for the trunk lid. I've designed an enclosure for my side by side and had started shaping a styrofoam buck, but hadn't quite decided how to finish it. After watching your videos and seeing how you made your inner frame work and reinforcements, specially on the hood with the foam board. You've giving me a pretty good idea on how to tackle my project. Keep up the good work. Love your videos. Very informative
Thanks - glad you're finding these useful.
I been watching your videos for a few months, it helped allot making my grill and other parts for my sema build! Only thing different is I'm using prepreg.
Sounds awesome.
Can't wait to see the carbon layup in these! Thanks for sharing.
Looks like you did an excellent job, and that 2 tone gel will make your life much easier for doing repairs.
So true - I had some sanding to do to fix the edge problem and as soon as I hit orange, I stopped. The repair went faster and was better than before because I had a gauge of how far I'd gone.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I would have reversed the colour scheme though. Keep the black for showing the blisters better.
@@iambeeman1 I'll give that a try.
Man, your videos get better every time it seems.
Can't wait for the next one.
Thank you for saying that. I'm always looking for ways to improve.
Blimey, this is really one of the most interesting and well made series of howto´s I´ve ever seen online. Thank you so much for sharing! It will certainly help in my next project :-)
Thanks Gunnar! Glad it was useful.
I really enjoy your videos.
You do a great job. I made molds back in the 80's and I miss it at times. I've got projects in mind but don't have the space or tools at this stage of life but I'm sure that can be worked out. Your videos give me the drive and desire and the advantage today is better materials although the procedure is the same. Not included vacuum molding, I have no experience with it but I want to try it.
Vacuum infusion really is a fantastic process for the home craftsman.
Man, that mold is really nice!
Thanks - I was really happy with the result. Both parts were very nice.
Really nice mold
Thank you very much
Good job sri❤❤❤❤
Thank you
You could take a rubber mallet and hit the underside of the mold to loosen the part.
I think what I am asking is do you need to have some "stand-off" from your plug to the flange you are making to account for the fillet of clay which will create a feature that will need to be cut off on your finished part.
I have watched all your videos and they are the best source of info for garage carbon fiber/fiberglass mold work I have found
Thanks!
Ah, I see. It's complicated - you have to analyze your part and then extend your flange where you need to have some trim area and don't forget to not create a draft angle that will lock the part in the mold.
I love your video series, what is your story? What type of work do you do?
Thanks. Just a guy building a car in his garage.
A guy I once worked for used a air nozzle to help separate the part from the mold.
I've been to scared to try!
Hello,
During first view of your video i missed the comment about you applying release agent; with a complex shape like this, I would expect it to be a critical step in the overall mold making process.
That is one of the most often underestimated possible issue which only shows its importance when trying to release the plug.
I can't speak for others but I'm really searching for videos of techniques used to get an easier plug release, where no brute force need be used and gel coat is preserved. Could you add some hint or lessons learned comments on this for your viewers?
Many thanks for your insightful videos!
That plug released really easily. I know how that sounds from watching the video - but look closely when it finally popped. It just came out. No struggle after it popped. You're working against parts that are exact replicas and there is a tremendous suction between them. If both parts are rigid, then it's harder to get them to release. I have covered release agent application and will cover it again in my next video when I make the carbon fibre part from this mold. The one thing I have not done is to insert an air valve on the backside of the mold. I should do this but I haven't had the nerve yet. I know this would make the release a lot easier. It's also a complication that I don't need as someone learning how to do this.
The cardboard tube works well, however you have to be careful - if the underlying mold isn't strong enough itself it will collapse into the tube under strong vacuum potentially warping your parts. I did it several times without a hitch, then i tried it when i was making a carbon fiber canoe - the vacuum collapsed all the fiberglass into the cardboard tubes so my canoe had little ribs along the sides, that was a learning experience.
Interesting. I'll keep this in mind.
What is the best way to give yourself enough material to cut and sand when making temporary flanges directly against finished surfaces?
Great videos btw
I'm not sure I understand the question - I just think about where I could use some extra flange if I'm going to need to sand to fit and try to extend the flange as flat as possible. Then create the flange that you'll use for bagging.
Hey man, awesome work!
May i ask how long you let the orange gelcoat cure, before applying the mats?
Allow it to cure for a few hours. It should be dry to the touch. Follow the label instructions for your gel coat.
Craig, we are gonna head to Canada for Eurokrazy, maybe a venture if you want to hang out with our magazine crew and video guys?
Where...when?
@@ThrottleStopGarage
June 27-28
12800 Henri Fabre
Mirabel, Quebec J7N-3A6
@@RR3EURO Sorry - I'm in Alberta. I won't be able to make it, that's a long way from here. If you ever make it out west - let me know.
beautiful
You should get an air wedge, it's like those wedges but connects to your compressor and pops molds right off.
I've got one...really won't work for a mold of this shape. Works fine for flatish panels.
the more complicated the plug is the harder it comes out I am sure you know about the ones that have negative angles needing split molds I design mostly non split...
Just found your video and I have some questions:
Why was a mold release paste not used?
Why did you not use PVA?
Why did you not seal the edges with some type of clay material?
All of these would have helped it release much easier.
You mean wax? Chemical mold release was used. It works great. No need for PVA. What edges? Modelling clay was used around edges.
Standard procedure is to always apply the fiber to the matrix (resin) to ensure proper distribution of the matrix. Laying on dry then applying can trap air that you have to work out which is more handling of the fiber and potential for damaged laminate (just some advice from a wind turbine composite technician)
I assume your shop is not attached to your house? Polyester smells too much for me to use in my garage so I am using epoxy which means no CSM which is a pity. You have a great channel, keep up the good work.
Detached for sure...or I'd be living out there!
Ok, two more quick questions if you would humor me. (I’m laying up some molds as I type)
Think it’s ok to use latex silicone in place of plasteline clay in some areas around flashing?
And do you see any problems with using packing tape to bridge larger gaps between the plug and flanging?
Thanks !
Packing tape is fine - latex silicone is not. Use either the modelling clay or filleting wax. If you can't source either - bondo works.
The tube is actually a good idea. Was it me or did you use alot more material this time?
The cloth is stiffer than CSM.
@@ThrottleStopGarage yeah that is on the other side, we were around there two years ago for #TTOA2018
One last question. What is your current opinion on gel coat application. Spray or brush , 1 or 2 coats and if sprayed would you buy a cup gun or hvlp like you previously used
If I was doing this over again - cup gun all the way. Two coats is easy. Spraying is just so much better than brushing.
I had no idea how much work that would be. I wanted to do this, now that I've watched this, I'm not sure. Had no idea just how many layers it would take.
It takes what it takes and depends on what you're making. To make a decent mold does require some thickness.
@@ThrottleStopGarage What I was thinking of doing was to substitute the many layers of fiberglass for a fabricated sub structure. Example: if you have 10 layers of fiberglass as the entire structure of the mold, I would try to have a wooden frame that makes up the general shape, then coat that shape with maybe 2 layers of fiberglass. Instead of getting the structural strength from multiple layers of fiberglass, you get the structural strength from a wooden sub structure and then a few lawyers of fiberglass in order to end up with a smooth surface for the mold. The fiberglass wouldn't be there for the strength, it would be there for a smooth surface.
One of the main reasons for this is that I would be making parts that are one off. I wouldn't be making a lot of them and making the mold on the cheap by getting strength from a wooden sub-structure seems to save quite a bit.
I've even seen where some have use plaster as the base, then painted over that, then mold release over that. Maybe not as professional, but it would only be used a few times, then thrown away.
@@karljay7473 I think you'll find that this is about the same amount of work (or more) than just making the mold like everyone else.
Before you started to use the primer with your mold, how did you prep your part before starting the molding process? Did you do a clear coat on your truck, or leave the bondo and old paint as is? I prepped a motorcycle side panel last weekend. Bondo, primer, paint and clear (spray can). Let it sit the week to cure. Then wet sanded and polished. Made the flares, waxed and applied the mold sealer and release like you stated in one of your earlier videos. I apply the tooling gel coat (1188A orange) and as I keep on adding I notice it's not setting onto some of the edges. When I look closer, it's actually mixing in with the paint and not setting. Do you think I messed up a prep stage, or (my guess) do you think it's because I did not use automotive paint (or a clear at least) that there was a chemical kerfuffle?
A few things. The primer I used was a proper (but inexpensive) 2K Urethane high build primer. The times when I didn't prime the plugs, the molds turned out, but the gel coat was inconsistent as the surface texture was different. I used spray can primer once...never again...I had a reaction with the gel coat (on the frame molds for the hood). So I guess you've had a similar problem.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you very much bud for your info and help! You using a 2K specific paint is what I've been thinking I should be using (and should have done), especially when you say you had similar problems with the normal spray can method too. I hope to be able to share some of my project progress with you by fall. Thanks again, and always look forward to your videos.
do you do custom orders?
No sorry.
thanks for the show
i watched your 10 or 15 videos in 2 days
i didn't understand why are you doing this
is it for competition or just using
because of my bad english i didn't understand if you say or write anywhere
can you eplain if you are available
thanks again
Thanks for watching - the car is just a design/engineering challenge. It's not designed for a race category or series.
Dead blow to help with release?¿
For sure NO - I'd ruin the mold if I even looked at a hammer! I'm sure for someone skilled it would be no big deal, but I wouldn't dare.
@@ThrottleStopGarage you don't have to beat it like owes you money😉, just about how you were but it would be easier on your hand. I'm talking about one of those rubbery dead blows..
www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-69004.html?cid=paid_google|||69004&gclid=CjwKCAiAy9jyBRA6EiwAeclQhHZKilz-IstNdyVAkTyY6HfX9-XvkBRCmvdDDOnIHOHN5JUx6F6CxRoClmsQAvD_BwE
I get it...but I'd probably hit it too hard.
I could probably arrange something.
@@ThrottleStopGarage you'll be fine
Hey I was wondering where would be the best place to buy supplies for doing fiber glass molds? Should I buy a kit or individual parts? & I know you’re sponsored by the website you provided but do you really think it’s the best choice for the price
I was sponsored for a few of these. The best place for fiberglass mat tends to be eBay and resin can be found for the best price at local suppliers (saving shipping). It does depend on where you are. It is also worth considering that standard resin systems (polyester) do shrink and there are resins that don't - see the description.
Also I notice there’s like a bunch of different types of fiberglass to buy, I’m trying to make a screw together 3d mold pour for statues & sculptures so which size & type would you recommend????
Tough question to answer. Standard CSM is fine, but I found that working with the biaxial was easy and cost effective for adding strength to the mold.
Another great video thank you! I like the idea of the contrasted gel coats. For what it's worth, beanie is weird... And I've only ever known them as such. 🤣
Thanks. Toque - that's what we call them.
Have you tried to blow compressed air into it
Yes - works best on flat shapes.
How do you clean up after all the cutting and trimming of the mold?
It took 4 hours to clean the shop...and it's not that clean. I trim the cuttings into smaller pieces and bag it all up. Then I sweep and do a little shop dusting. In the spring, I'll hit it with a leaf blower and give it a good dusting.
Instead of tube i used 1/2 moon dowel or willthe next day will a apply heavy bead of fast drying silicon bead over the areas that need renforcement creating a web pattern as need ..the fiber glass over them. You dont need anymore than 1/2 to 3/4 bead diameter.
Tempts me to use an impact hammer with a wide flat hammer on it.
The entire time...I'm looking around for a piece of wood or something, but I know that I'll just shatter the mold and make a mess. This is one big advantage of making videos - I know someone is watching me, so I try harder to not be ham-fisted with things.
@@ThrottleStopGarage so you use your literal ham fists to release the mold :-P
Maybe it's time to break out the hitachi "muscle relaxer" to softly pop the mold out.
The only times I've brushed gel coat into my molds (i use silicone molds for prop making) it starts warping and wavey sometimes pulling away from the silicone, so i gave up using it that way, anyone have advice on what im doing wrong?. Too much catalyst? Too thin a coat? Cheers
Contact the manufacturer of your gel coat and ask. They should be able to assist.
Que es esa lamina blanca que pone ?
Coroplast is the white corrugated plastic. I'm also using foam board and aluminum flashing material.
Way to many steps my friend, but none the less nice job. Also air works real well in decasting.
Great video but...
When you say 3-5 Mil or 20 Mil, are you referring to millimetres?(!) Or some other unit.
I realise Americans are generally not fluent in metric. 20mm would around 3/4". 3mm would be close to 1/8"....
I suspect you may mean microns but I do not know how thick these coats should be.
Sorry for the confusion. Mil thickness for this stuff is in thousands of an inch. It's industry standard reference for thickness and there is a gauge (get one) called a mil gauge that is placed in the coating to check - the last spot (it's like a comb) that doesn't have gel coat is the thickness. It's hard to see me check as it's only a frame or two.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Cheers for clearing that up. :)
I'm laughing cause I'm battling mold making right now :)
I'm glad I'm not making molds right now!
I call it a tabagon
At 6:19 you said "20 Mils is a boat right" You're making a boat? I thought this was for your car?
Yawn - I'm Canadian...it's part of our charming accent.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I know man, just my sense of humor; my Canadian born and raised (living in the US) brother in law has to deal with it too.
Keep up the entertaining and educational videos.
Craig, I don't s the short sleeve shirts like the one you're on T-spring. I want one, evolvo67
You mean the mechanics shirt?
Compressed air separates molds easily.
Not in this case. Sorry.
why don't you wack it eh, lol
Get a hydraulic spreader 😁
You should use microballoons in the sharp corners. Split molds with flanges are much easier to handle. There's a guy in Australia that makes absolutely everything out of glass or carbon fiber. He has redline racing but channel name is abstract. Search v6 muscle hatch to find him.
I've done that - this mold just needed me to take a little more time in the corners so they wouldn't be so sharp. Live and learn.
5:38
Every time I wait for the first coat to fully cure before laying the second, the second coat causes the first coat to wrinkle. I usually have to keep coating every 20 mins, to the desired thickness, and I have to spray the next coat on a still wet previous coat to the final thickness. I do have a different brand gel coat, did you ever have that problem? Wrinkles in the top layer gel coat
I've not had that experience with the gel coat from Composite Envisions. My guess is that you may be laying it on too thick...but I'm not sure.