I’m glad you still had the motivation after your first chosen plate cracked, great video! I’ve done a few cyanotypes, but I still learned a lot from your video and it’s motivated me to make my UV box!
Just tried my first contact print cyanotype today from a glass plate negative. Previously just used digital negs printed on transparency. Used sunlight, 20' exposure but overexposed. Will try test strips next. But it certainly worked!
Great video; very clear and to the point. Too bad about the broken glass negative. I also do cyanotypes and have also built a UV LED exposure box which works great. I missed the giveaway deadline, but look forward to viewing more of your projects in the future.
Hey Dennis, Its nico to see that this videos I make can get people with the same interests together. I will for sure make another giveaway in the future 😊 Marry Christmas
Hello from Maine USA, I'm always impressed by your videos very helpful. I usually make my cyanotypes with 4x5 negatives but I'm thinking about getting the Kodax 3A and playing around with that before word gets out and the prices soar. Some cyanotype videos skip the initial soaking, I'll take your advice and try it.
Geat video - this is in my to do list - but I can hardly hold a screwdriver so building an UV LED bed like you did is out of the quesiton. Keep going mate, I enjoy your videos
Great Video!! I just started building my first 4x5 film camera today (using Jon Grepstad's book/manual) after a little bit of a break from film, but I greatly miss the unique process. I'm inspired by your work, keep it up!
Great video. I have already purchased some of the irems for my light unit, thanks for such a detailed video. Instead of two sheets of glass, you could use one and a Vynil sheet held down with the vacuum from an old refrigerator motor, works great on any surface. Cannot wait for the next video, thanks.
Hi, Not a vacuum cleaner but a refrigerator compressor, it is the black blob at the bottom of most fridges or freezers. Just cut off the two pipes leaving a minimum of 5 cm àf each to fit a compressor hose over the in tube, the other end is fitted as close to the table area. Place your paper on the glass, the neg on top. Seal around the edges with tape, with the end of the hose at one corner. Place a piece of cloth or something porous between the hose and the paper or the vacuum sometimes seals around the hose and does not empty the air from the rest of the table. A simple process but very practical, and cost almost nothing.
Very thorough and easy to understand technique 👌 Thank you, I am printing onto cloth for my degree show installation at Falmouth University Cornwall 😀! Thanks for your video advice, Pip
Using a vinegar solution for a developer is new to me, may have to try that sometime. Cyanotypes are new to me, I've been using peroxide after a water dev to speed up the process. Great video and nice work!
Great walk-through of the whole process, thank you for doing this. The cracked negative actually deserves some more attention: Do you still have it available? The cracks could even add some meaning to the end result, e.g. in terms of delicateness....
Another great video. I think we all appreciate all your efforts and clear description of each process. Too bad about the first glass negative it looked like a beauty. Good to see you put that behind you and carried on with the video. Very enjoyable video. I may be mistaken but I don't think you have ever told anyone your name when introducing each of your videos. Have a pleasant weekend. Cheers form Nova Scotia, Canada.
Thanks Wayne. Yes it was hearth breaking to se the broken negative but I will make one last print out of it even if its broken! My name is Nejc and greetings from Slovenia 😊
@@lostlightart6064 Do you make your own coating or do you buy it? If you make it, can you do a video on this or tell us how. Thanks very much. I found some very interesting alternative processes folowing this. Checkout Tintype process - very similar but not blue.
@@richardstollar4291 I make and sell my own cyanotype solution. But I also made a video including the solution mixing a few weeks ago. Its on my channel just so you can check it up ;)
Fascinating project. Feel bad for the plate you lost. I know how dear that exposure was to you. Well, there is always something to learn. Perhaps keeping the plates between two sheets of corrugated cardboard might help.
Wow, your plate cracked. Stress riser (chip) with temp change - who would have thought Suppose making as "digital negative" has it upside and I think it would work for cyanotype printing. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks Stuart in Vietnam
Hey Stuart. Yes who would have thought but this is the only explanation I could found by leaving the plate on the middle of the table with doors locked :D I will definitely make one final print with the broken negative. Follow me on social media to see the result or I will make a blog about it maybe...
@@lostlightart6064 I'm from the north east of Scotland, (Aberdeen). I'm enjoying the videos, intrigued with the dry plate, not tried it before. Thanks for your hard work
I've been loving your videos! I've been wanting to get into alternative darkroom processes and cyanotypes seem like the easy first step to the journey. Thanks for the inspiration
nice background music. Good demo and audio explanation. I bet you have a nice smile.😏 good vid angles A bit a inflection in your voice would improve this vid but I am guessing English is not your first language. I do like your accent however. The broken glass just makes a great special feature! I’m an artist and like surprises.🦌💌❤️🙏🇨🇦
Thanks I received the plates ok - i'm expecting plate holders tomorrow and then we can test them out - i noticed you use HC110 how is the grain with this developer?
This is a fab process Never actually seen it start to finish with the explanation like this 😍😍 It's like magic Can you use any paper ? Like for example copier paper ? Thanks for sharing 😁
Use a few drops hydrogen peroxide in your developing to see the final punchy contrasts. you calso wait until it gets dry, it will have the same results. + the green cast tells you when it's best. i'd allready have told that the 12 min one would be your best pick.
Hello, I tried a few times contact printing of old family plates on cyanoype paper but I got little success, the resolution of the image was not good and the blue was just peu à peu whashed away from the paper. From what I see, I should start with another type of paper and per-soak it in paper (I was directly painting the mix on dry paper) did not use vinaigre either...gives me the intention to start experimenting again...thanks, do you recommend paper for watercolor ?
Yes you need to work with a paper that absorbs the solution well and watercolor papers are meant to do exactly that. Did you turn the negatives emulsion down so it was in direct contact with paper?
@@lostlightart6064 thanks for your answer, I bought some better quality watercolor paper for a second try. I’m not sure I did that but I see your point, if the emulsion was not the contact side, that could explain the blurry effect...thanks, I’ll will give it a second chance. As for exposure, I was not as precise as you, I just used the sun...
@@RetifsGarage Yes I hope it will work now. Anyway there is no proven recipe for success here. Every print, negative, chemical...is a little bit different
Great and informative video thanks! A real shame about the first negative though. Have been thinking about trying cyanotype for a couple of years and even more piqued now! Do you buy your cynano solution ready-made or mix it yourself?
@@lostlightart6064 Thanks, I'll bear that in mind and might well be in touch! After a quick search I have all the ingredients apart from the ammonium ferric citrate. All I need then is a decent UV light box :-)
@@lostlightart6064 thankyou and I'm bidding on some glass negatives on ebay now so it seemed like a good idea for new experiments in my BA fine art course 😀
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I’m glad you still had the motivation after your first chosen plate cracked, great video! I’ve done a few cyanotypes, but I still learned a lot from your video and it’s motivated me to make my UV box!
Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your UV box!
Just tried my first contact print cyanotype today from a glass plate negative. Previously just used digital negs printed on transparency. Used sunlight, 20' exposure but overexposed. Will try test strips next. But it certainly worked!
Amazing. Good luck 😉
@@lostlightart6064 Thanks.
Loved watching this and appreciate your generous tutorials!
Great video; very clear and to the point. Too bad about the broken glass negative. I also do cyanotypes and have also built a UV LED exposure box which works great. I missed the giveaway deadline, but look forward to viewing more of your projects in the future.
Hey Dennis,
Its nico to see that this videos I make can get people with the same interests together. I will for sure make another giveaway in the future 😊 Marry Christmas
Great video. I think I need to try this sometime.
Thanks :)
Hello from Maine USA, I'm always impressed by your videos very helpful. I usually make my cyanotypes with 4x5 negatives but I'm thinking about getting the Kodax 3A and playing around with that before word gets out and the prices soar. Some cyanotype videos skip the initial soaking, I'll take your advice and try it.
Geat video - this is in my to do list - but I can hardly hold a screwdriver so building an UV LED bed like you did is out of the quesiton. Keep going mate, I enjoy your videos
Thanks for the kind words and have a nice weekend!
Great Video!! I just started building my first 4x5 film camera today (using Jon Grepstad's book/manual) after a little bit of a break from film, but I greatly miss the unique process. I'm inspired by your work, keep it up!
Cool Nick. I am just planing to build my 8x10 camera so if you want contact me on social media and we can help each other out?
This was great you really explain everything and easy to follow
Thank you Michael!
Great video. I have already purchased some of the irems for my light unit, thanks for such a detailed video. Instead of two sheets of glass, you could use one and a Vynil sheet held down with the vacuum from an old refrigerator motor, works great on any surface. Cannot wait for the next video, thanks.
Woow I know about the expensive vacuum tables but making it from old vacuum cleaner that would be something else. Thanks for the idea and kind words!
Hi, Not a vacuum cleaner but a refrigerator compressor, it is the black blob at the bottom of most fridges or freezers. Just cut off the two pipes leaving a minimum of 5 cm àf each to fit a compressor hose over the in tube, the other end is fitted as close to the table area. Place your paper on the glass, the neg on top. Seal around the edges with tape, with the end of the hose at one corner. Place a piece of cloth or something porous between the hose and the paper or the vacuum sometimes seals around the hose and does not empty the air from the rest of the table. A simple process but very practical, and cost almost nothing.
@@phillipP8848 oh okay I miss read something. Thanks!
Very thorough and easy to understand technique 👌 Thank you, I am printing onto cloth for my degree show installation at Falmouth University Cornwall 😀! Thanks for your video advice, Pip
Woow good luck and thank you 🙏
Thank you for the tutorial! I starting cyanotypes and I got a lot of good ideas!
Cool I am glad I could help!
Using a vinegar solution for a developer is new to me, may have to try that sometime.
Cyanotypes are new to me, I've been using peroxide after a water dev to speed up the process. Great video and nice work!
Thanks. Yes peroxide just makes the print as blue and contrasty as it usually is when dry. Havent tried it yet. Thanks for the kind words!
Second year photography Student. Really enjoying your video post.. Analogue historical processes are far better than Digital
That's the spirit!
Great walk-through of the whole process, thank you for doing this.
The cracked negative actually deserves some more attention: Do you still have it available? The cracks could even add some meaning to the end result, e.g. in terms of delicateness....
Yes sure I will be definitely making one final print with it in the upcoming week! It has a totaly new potential now
Love Cyanotypes, the gateway to alternative processing :)
Another great video. I think we all appreciate all your efforts and clear description of each process. Too bad about the first glass negative it looked like a beauty. Good to see you put that behind you and carried on with the video. Very enjoyable video. I may be mistaken but I don't think you have ever told anyone your name when introducing each of your videos. Have a pleasant weekend. Cheers form Nova Scotia, Canada.
Thanks Wayne. Yes it was hearth breaking to se the broken negative but I will make one last print out of it even if its broken! My name is Nejc and greetings from Slovenia 😊
Such an interesting process and I've never seen it before.
I am glad I was able to show you something new! :)
@@lostlightart6064 Do you make your own coating or do you buy it? If you make it, can you do a video on this or tell us how.
Thanks very much. I found some very interesting alternative processes folowing this.
Checkout Tintype process - very similar but not blue.
@@richardstollar4291 I make and sell my own cyanotype solution. But I also made a video including the solution mixing a few weeks ago. Its on my channel just so you can check it up ;)
Fascinating project. Feel bad for the plate you lost. I know how dear that exposure was to you. Well, there is always something to learn. Perhaps keeping the plates between two sheets of corrugated cardboard might help.
It was hearth breaking. I really handle them carefully because ant the end they are made from glass...I learned the hard way :(
So many processes I want to try, but no time... but cyanotype is definitely on the top of the list !
Yes me to. Alternative photography is never boring 😀
Excellent walk through! Thanks!
Thanks Bob :)
Wow, your plate cracked. Stress riser (chip) with temp change - who would have thought Suppose making as "digital negative" has it upside and I think it would work for cyanotype printing. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks Stuart in Vietnam
Hey Stuart. Yes who would have thought but this is the only explanation I could found by leaving the plate on the middle of the table with doors locked :D I will definitely make one final print with the broken negative. Follow me on social media to see the result or I will make a blog about it maybe...
Fantastic video, given me the inspiration to try cyanotypes again. Thanks for sharing
Thanks you Ben! May I ask where you come from?
@@lostlightart6064 I'm from the north east of Scotland, (Aberdeen). I'm enjoying the videos, intrigued with the dry plate, not tried it before. Thanks for your hard work
@@bencairns4301 Oh thats cool. Yes it is a lot of work but I enjoy spreading the knowledge around. Have a nice weekend!
I've been loving your videos! I've been wanting to get into alternative darkroom processes and cyanotypes seem like the easy first step to the journey. Thanks for the inspiration
Hey Bruno! Thanks alot for the support and yes cyanotypes are great starting point!
Also, you should've tried to print using the broken glass negative. Might've given you an interesting result. Definitely give it a shot.
@@Buza3 yeah sure I am already coating new papers!
Nice print and video, keep up the great work.
Thanks man!
So many things to try..so little time!
true :(
nice background music. Good demo and audio explanation. I bet you have a nice smile.😏 good vid angles
A bit a inflection in your voice would improve this vid but I am guessing English is not your first language. I do like your accent however. The broken glass just makes a great special feature! I’m an artist and like surprises.🦌💌❤️🙏🇨🇦
Thanks 🤗
Thank you for share your work!
Thanks I received the plates ok - i'm expecting plate holders tomorrow and then we can test them out - i noticed you use HC110 how is the grain with this developer?
This is a fab process
Never actually seen it start to finish with the explanation like this 😍😍
It's like magic
Can you use any paper ?
Like for example copier paper ?
Thanks for sharing 😁
Hey John. Yes sure possibilities are endless. Every paper need its own care thats all 🙂
Use a few drops hydrogen peroxide in your developing to see the final punchy contrasts.
you calso wait until it gets dry, it will have the same results.
+ the green cast tells you when it's best. i'd allready have told that the 12 min one would be your best pick.
Going to try the vinegar tip thank you
Yes it really makes a difference!
Realy like this. By the way is there a way to handle contrast? I am still debating if i will start with cayanotype or carbontype.
Hey. Yes like I did using vinegar is one of the methods to get more midtones 😉
I want to make large cyanotypes. I have a 3x5 glass tabletop that is 3/4 in thick. Will the thickness of the glass affect the process?
I’m always using vinegar to force the mid-tones and also add later some hydrogen peroxide
Yes cyanotypes often need some tweaking in order to get the image you want. Thanks for joining my Patreon community as well :)
Hello, I tried a few times contact printing of old family plates on cyanoype paper but I got little success, the resolution of the image was not good and the blue was just peu à peu whashed away from the paper. From what I see, I should start with another type of paper and per-soak it in paper (I was directly painting the mix on dry paper) did not use vinaigre either...gives me the intention to start experimenting again...thanks, do you recommend paper for watercolor ?
Yes you need to work with a paper that absorbs the solution well and watercolor papers are meant to do exactly that. Did you turn the negatives emulsion down so it was in direct contact with paper?
@@lostlightart6064 thanks for your answer, I bought some better quality watercolor paper for a second try. I’m not sure I did that but I see your point, if the emulsion was not the contact side, that could explain the blurry effect...thanks, I’ll will give it a second chance. As for exposure, I was not as precise as you, I just used the sun...
@@RetifsGarage Yes I hope it will work now. Anyway there is no proven recipe for success here. Every print, negative, chemical...is a little bit different
@@lostlightart6064 yes that’s the beauty of it ! Unique results each time
@@RetifsGarage Yesss!
Great and informative video thanks! A real shame about the first negative though. Have been thinking about trying cyanotype for a couple of years and even more piqued now!
Do you buy your cynano solution ready-made or mix it yourself?
Thanks! After you know the little trick it really is a satisfying technique. I mix it myself and also sell it so if you are interested contact me!
@@lostlightart6064 Thanks, I'll bear that in mind and might well be in touch! After a quick search I have all the ingredients apart from the ammonium ferric citrate. All I need then is a decent UV light box :-)
@@lostlightart6064 BTW, welcome to browse some of my B&W efforts at www.workof.art
@@ianactually 👍
Just beginning my cyanotype journey...have you seen the book, "Cyanotype" by Christina Z. Anderson? Lots of interesting approaches to making prints!
Thank you for the heads up, it's always a good idea sharing third-party sources.
Thanks for sharing :)
Can you do the same on cyanotype fabric using sunlight and placing it in a clip frame?
Yes it works exactly the same
@@lostlightart6064 thankyou and I'm bidding on some glass negatives on ebay now so it seemed like a good idea for new experiments in my BA fine art course 😀
do you have some good instructions on how to make a UV box with led lights
Sure you can find the video on my channel ;)
Thank you for your quick reply and your wonderful videos.
@@barbarakatzin2249 You are welcome :)
I’ve been playing with cyanotype printing. Has any one printed on wood or glass?