Awesome video. Id like to try this on metal. So you think the same process should work? I mean... same amount of gelatin, temperature... ? :D thanks in advance.
@@sassegranny4700 I don't let it cool down. I apply the heated emulsion directly onto the glass. Just make sure it doesn't get hotter than 40°C. Hope that helps!
Beautiful video. The filming was perfect! I like that you went over mixing the gel cold, before heating it, and did the whole process in white light, so it would be filmed well.
Thank you for making this video. That print looks absolutely beautiful! I've never thought about printmaking before, but this video makes me want to try it out!
Boredom and routine are the springboards to achievement! 😸 I think I'll try this with my cyanotypes this year. Your video is the only one which has made me want to attempt this. I wonder if glass cyanotypes can be toned. 🤔 Best wishes from Vermont 🍁
Thanks for the praise! Sadly toning doesn't work, because it would require the print to be submerged in tannin-containing fluid for quite a while and that would just turn the coating back to a a gooey blob of gelantine.
@@JulianSandro Would a denaturing agent work to "fix" the gelatine? Albumen prints come to mind, I think, and am thinking of isopropyl alcohol or formalin/formaldehyde. May be worth a go. Just thinking aloud. Nice video! Aloha
Hello, I think you did a wonderful job. I tried a lot to develop through glass, but I did not succeed, because the liquid does not stick. Now I know the difference, which is gelatin. I have a question: Can the gelatin method work on thin plastic, and is it possible to develop with sunlight as we do? Usually on paper, thank you,,
Although I've personally never tried to print on plastic I do think it should work as long as the plastic isn't too bendy. Development it sunlight should work perfectly fine.
Can you mix (dry) colored pigment with the actual emulsion in order to achieve a colored print? (I saw your earlier video about dyeing the paper with tea, coffee, etc.)
Sadly toning is not possible on glass prints. At least I don't know how. Adding pigment to the emulsion would stain the whole print which could yield interesting results.
Silly question - how come you can dry the plates and mix the emulsion in light? Why isn't it photosensitive in this part of the process, including letting the plates dry? Thanks!
The emulsion is only sensitive to light when dry. And even then it's only sensitive to UV light. So you are relatively safe to use the emulsion in indoor lighting. Hope that helps!
I love your video-perfect pace and very relaxing. I have also become bored, in a way-though I am doing lots of textile work with Cyanotypes--here is my questions-that little box...is that a light box? Can you tell me exactly what the wattage or how it develops? At first I thought it was just a dark box and could not figure out how it developed...thank you so very much
Yes, it is a lightbox. I glued UV-Led Strips to the lid. The LED strip I used has 60 Leds a meter with a 395-400 nm wavelength. I also made a video about this Setup: th-cam.com/video/bUmAwSqyVqA/w-d-xo.html. Hope that helps
Nice work. Shame about the gelatine, which personally I would not use (I am a vegetarian) - but maybe arrowroot might work? Worth a try. Thanks for an excellent video.
Thank you for this detailed video. if I understood correctly, you add 20 g of gelatin in 100 ml of total solution (A+B). but do you also heat the solution before adding the gelatin? and if so, at how many degrees? when you add the gelatine then mix everything at 40 degrees. Do you let it cool before pouring the mixture onto the plate? tank you so much
Yes, I do add 20 g of gelatin in 100 ml of total solution (A+B). I don't heat the solution before adding the gelatine. It is necessary to add the gelatine to cold water, otherwise it will form clumps. Further, I pour the 40°C hot solution onto the glass plate. Because at room temperature the final solution has a gelly-like consistency. I hope that helps
@@JulianSandro when you say «add the gelatin to cold water» you mean "add the gelatin to cold solution"? Beacause in the video I see you put the gelatin in the solution and no into cold water. Thanks
The glass mobile is a great idea! I thought of using it in some kind of Tiffany glass art piece, although I haven't worked with glass so that might be somewhat in the future.
I tried this process, and had a bit of a problem. Wondering if you could give some advice. I created the solution with the gelatin, let it dry and then exposed the image. When I went to the washing step (trying to be gentle). Some of the dried and exposed cyanotype washed off. Do you have ideas how to correct this? Thank you so much!
During my experiments, this was mostly the case when the emulsion wasn't completely dry or too thick. Ultimately, I ended up drying the coated piece of glass overnight. I achieved a thinner coating by heating up the glass plate to about the temperature of the emulsion. That way it would be less viscous, allowing me to spread it more thinly. Also, make sure to clean the glass plates before applying the emulsion. If none of these things help you might even consider using less gelatine. This will also allow you to spread it more thinly. I hope that helps!
The emulsion is directly applied to the glass, but yes it is very much prone to scratches. Maybe you'd be able to seal the print with a coat of resin, but I haven't tried that yet. Hope that helps!
Many thanks for your interesting video with your calm voice. I have a little question: do you rinse the exposed glass in pure water? Can you enhance the color tone with something? Sometimes I take for paper Cyanotype Hydrogen Peroxide. Is this also possible for glass ?
Yes, I do rinse the water in pure water. Although I haven't tried oxidizing glass-prints using hydrogen peroxide. I do think it should work. Maybe do a test on a smaller piece of glass beforehand. Hope that helps
@@JulianSandrohow lobg the mixture last? Generally mix of a&b last for few hours when using it for coating paper. Now with adding gelatin and heating it, does it last longer? Or no different?
@@MehriJamshidi During my little experiments I found that the mixture does last a bit longer than standard cyanotype emulsion. Stored in a light-proof container even up to a few days. The color is a good indicator to check if the emulsion is still good. If the mixture has a blue tint it will probably not work as well as some fresh green one. Hope that helps!
The emulsion only gets light-sensitive when it's dry. So yes it's safe to try with standard room lighting. just keep it away from Sunlight (unless during exposure). Hope that helps!
Does one need a lightbox to try this? Will sunlight work? Totally new to this so please excuse if it's a silly question. Thank you for the beautiful video :)
Thanks for the praise. If you have all the necessary materials one day should be enough. Be aware that some of the print might get cracks after drying, especially if you do it the first time. So make a few extra prints just to be sure. Hope that helps!
Very nice and inspiring video indeed, I was wondering: how long can you these glass printed images, do they fade or can you put them on exposition for long periods of time?
Let me know if you want to see me use this technique to print on metals like bronze or other smooth surfaces 😁
Yes pleaseee
Awesome video. Id like to try this on metal. So you think the same process should work? I mean... same amount of gelatin, temperature... ? :D thanks in advance.
Yes, please! I would love to see it!
Once you have heated the emulsion, do you let it cool down a bit before applying it to the glass?? I am going to try this in a day or so.
@@sassegranny4700 I don't let it cool down. I apply the heated emulsion directly onto the glass. Just make sure it doesn't get hotter than 40°C. Hope that helps!
How clever. The gelatin bit. Thank you
Beautiful video. The filming was perfect! I like that you went over mixing the gel cold, before heating it, and did the whole process in white light, so it would be filmed well.
Thanks a lot for this discover. Beautiful video and poetic work.
Thank you for making this video. That print looks absolutely beautiful! I've never thought about printmaking before, but this video makes me want to try it out!
Love to hear that!
This is the solution I needed! As I want to print over gold leaf! Going to run out and get some supplies and give it a try.
Sounds Great!
great video. thanks
Fantástico video!!!!
thank you! Is it possible to dry the emulsion with a hairdryer like on paper?
Using a hairdryer might lead to cracks in your print, so I wouldn't recommend that.
What about a layered print with multiple cyanotype glass panes that have different elements of say, a city for example, on each layer?
Boredom and routine are the springboards to achievement! 😸
I think I'll try this with my cyanotypes this year. Your video is the only one which has made me want to attempt this.
I wonder if glass cyanotypes can be toned. 🤔
Best wishes from Vermont 🍁
Thanks for the praise!
Sadly toning doesn't work, because it would require the print to be submerged in tannin-containing fluid for quite a while and that would just turn the coating back to a a gooey blob of gelantine.
@@JulianSandro Would a denaturing agent work to "fix" the gelatine? Albumen prints come to mind, I think, and am thinking of isopropyl alcohol or formalin/formaldehyde. May be worth a go. Just thinking aloud. Nice video! Aloha
Hello, I think you did a wonderful job. I tried a lot to develop through glass, but I did not succeed, because the liquid does not stick. Now I know the difference, which is gelatin. I have a question: Can the gelatin method work on thin plastic, and is it possible to develop with sunlight as we do? Usually on paper, thank you,,
Although I've personally never tried to print on plastic I do think it should work as long as the plastic isn't too bendy. Development it sunlight should work perfectly fine.
Can you mix (dry) colored pigment with the actual emulsion in order to achieve a colored print? (I saw your earlier video about dyeing the paper with tea, coffee, etc.)
Sadly toning is not possible on glass prints. At least I don't know how. Adding pigment to the emulsion would stain the whole print which could yield interesting results.
Silly question - how come you can dry the plates and mix the emulsion in light? Why isn't it photosensitive in this part of the process, including letting the plates dry? Thanks!
The emulsion is only sensitive to light when dry. And even then it's only sensitive to UV light. So you are relatively safe to use the emulsion in indoor lighting. Hope that helps!
I love your video-perfect pace and very relaxing. I have also become bored, in a way-though I am doing lots of textile work with Cyanotypes--here is my questions-that little box...is that a light box? Can you tell me exactly what the wattage or how it develops? At first I thought it was just a dark box and could not figure out how it developed...thank you so very much
Yes, it is a lightbox. I glued UV-Led Strips to the lid. The LED strip I used has 60 Leds a meter with a 395-400 nm wavelength.
I also made a video about this Setup: th-cam.com/video/bUmAwSqyVqA/w-d-xo.html.
Hope that helps
Thank you so much-that is fantastic.
@@JulianSandro
Thank you for your video and for all your tips. After rinsing, should we use a product to fix the image? and which one? Thank you.
You don't need a product to fix the image. The gelantine will actually get quite hard so just let it dry.
the mixture and heating shouldn´t be done on red light? thanks
The mixture is only light-sensitive when it's dry. So no need for red light while mixing!
And only to uv light
Nice work. Shame about the gelatine, which personally I would not use (I am a vegetarian) - but maybe arrowroot might work? Worth a try. Thanks for an excellent video.
Thank you for this detailed video. if I understood correctly, you add 20 g of gelatin in 100 ml of total solution (A+B). but do you also heat the solution before adding the gelatin? and if so, at how many degrees? when you add the gelatine then mix everything at 40 degrees. Do you let it cool before pouring the mixture onto the plate? tank you so much
Yes, I do add 20 g of gelatin in 100 ml of total solution (A+B). I don't heat the solution before adding the gelatine. It is necessary to add the gelatine to cold water, otherwise it will form clumps. Further, I pour the 40°C hot solution onto the glass plate. Because at room temperature the final solution has a gelly-like consistency. I hope that helps
@@JulianSandro when you say «add the gelatin to cold water» you mean "add the gelatin to cold solution"? Beacause in the video I see you put the gelatin in the solution and no into cold water. Thanks
@@clarapatella7787 Yes, sorry I mean cold Solution.
@@JulianSandro thank you very much. I'll tell you if the esperiment Will be good
would this work if i expose it in sunlight?
Yes!
Would tea staining be suitable or would it need to be in moisture for too long?
Sadly, Toning doesn't work because the gelatine would dissolve during the process.
@@JulianSandro thanks for the reply
Margin is that a kind of butter?
incredible accent. subscribed
Very nice video. I want to try Cyanotype printing this year. Have you tried to tone the glass print?
Thanks for the praise. Sadly, Toning doesn't work because the gelatine would dissolve during the process.
Thanks for the info on toning-I had intended to try it.
Pretty 😎 cool. How do you plan to use the new glass print. I can imagine a glass mobile to hang in the window. ❤
The glass mobile is a great idea! I thought of using it in some kind of Tiffany glass art piece, although I haven't worked with glass so that might be somewhat in the future.
I tried this process, and had a bit of a problem. Wondering if you could give some advice. I created the solution with the gelatin, let it dry and then exposed the image. When I went to the washing step (trying to be gentle). Some of the dried and exposed cyanotype washed off. Do you have ideas how to correct this? Thank you so much!
During my experiments, this was mostly the case when the emulsion wasn't completely dry or too thick. Ultimately, I ended up drying the coated piece of glass overnight. I achieved a thinner coating by heating up the glass plate to about the temperature of the emulsion. That way it would be less viscous, allowing me to spread it more thinly. Also, make sure to clean the glass plates before applying the emulsion. If none of these things help you might even consider using less gelatine. This will also allow you to spread it more thinly.
I hope that helps!
@@JulianSandro Thank you so much. I will give it another try. I think I may have added too much gelatin and let it dry longer.
This really prints on the glass or its only a thin layer of mixture, and if you scratch it, it would break?
The emulsion is directly applied to the glass, but yes it is very much prone to scratches. Maybe you'd be able to seal the print with a coat of resin, but I haven't tried that yet. Hope that helps!
Many thanks for your interesting video with your calm voice. I have a little question: do you rinse the exposed glass in pure water? Can you enhance the color tone with something? Sometimes I take for paper Cyanotype Hydrogen Peroxide. Is this also possible for glass ?
Yes, I do rinse the water in pure water. Although I haven't tried oxidizing glass-prints using hydrogen peroxide. I do think it should work. Maybe do a test on a smaller piece of glass beforehand. Hope that helps
for the same anount of the imulsion a and b, how much gelatin should be used?
The final emulsion consists of 50ml emulsion a + 50ml emulsion b + 20g of gelantine. Hope that helps
@@JulianSandrogreat; thanks
@@JulianSandrohow lobg the mixture last? Generally mix of a&b last for few hours when using it for coating paper. Now with adding gelatin and heating it, does it last longer? Or no different?
@@MehriJamshidi During my little experiments I found that the mixture does last a bit longer than standard cyanotype emulsion. Stored in a light-proof container even up to a few days. The color is a good indicator to check if the emulsion is still good. If the mixture has a blue tint it will probably not work as well as some fresh green one. Hope that helps!
First, thanks for the video! And a question: doesn't the emulsion start to develop while it is drying?
The emulsion only turns blue under UV-light. So as long as you do this inside with subdued lighting, you should be good. Hope that helps!
Did you do the video about cyanotype on metal? I tried to find it, but i did not see it.
I haven't done that yet. Although I have done some experimentation, it is a bit more difficult than anticipated. Sorry.
Was the white light just used for filming purposes or is this method safe to try in white light?
The emulsion only gets light-sensitive when it's dry. So yes it's safe to try with standard room lighting. just keep it away from Sunlight (unless during exposure). Hope that helps!
I wonder if this would project an image onto a wall if placed in a window.?
Yes it would!
Does one need a lightbox to try this? Will sunlight work? Totally new to this so please excuse if it's a silly question. Thank you for the beautiful video :)
Sunlight will work fine! Best on a cloudless day.
Really nice video! Did you clean the glass before coating?
Yes, I used some glass cleaner to remove any grease that might have been on there.
Nice video! Helped so much
Can I finish all this process in one day? Asking for my school assignment 😂
Thanks for the praise. If you have all the necessary materials one day should be enough. Be aware that some of the print might get cracks after drying, especially if you do it the first time. So make a few extra prints just to be sure. Hope that helps!
@JulianSandro Thanks for the reply!! 👍
Very nice and inspiring video indeed, I was wondering: how long can you these glass printed images, do they fade or can you put them on exposition for long periods of time?
Cyanotypes are archival, they last a very very long time
If you darken it enough, you will have a print tht needs to be backlit, and I think that would be spectacular.