Repointing a very damaged chimney stack by replacing the top capping, replacing damaged bricks and repointing the chimney. All done in a day and a half
My house is gas and my chimney is just used as an exhaust so to speak. We have no fire place. How do you repair the chimney section of the attic? Is it just simple as tuck pointing or what?
I just subscribed to your channel, and I've found you brick videos very helpful! I am getting ready to do some brick repairs on my house, but I'm afraid it may be sloppy work. How long after I put the cement in before I would brush the wall to have a neat repair?
Hi matey, remember different brick absorb water out of the mortar in different measures. For example harder fired bricks will be slow and if your mortar is to wet it will bleed out on the brick face. Use plastersizer and watch how much water you add depending on your brick. When pointing watt until its firm to touch then joint up point up then lightly brush upwards in gentle sweeping motion
Thank you for you quick response. My house was built in the early 1950's, so I'll be trying to match the mortar as well. Actually, I am now looking forward to the task ahead of me. I love TH-cam how to videos!
joedmac78 xHi thanks for the enquirer, I always use a mix of a 3 part sand and 1 part cement- depending if the chimney is using coal fuel I would add 1 part lime to counter act the sulphurs produced from the fires. Hoped that has helped
Shouldn’t use cement in your mix it’ll ruin the bricks and it’s not breathable. Should’ve used a st astier nhl5 ( as opposed to a 3.5) lime and sand mix for extra strength as the chimney is often the most exposed and weathered part of the roof. You mention using pva to seal the joints..that’s a no no too!
Chris how much to waterproof this chimney with a water repellent in USA dollars. I'm from the states and need this on my house so I agree $1,900 for the repointing I was wrong at $4,500 way to much on my part so $,1900 on pointing how much to apply a water repellent to a chimney this size$400 USA dollars? Please let me know ty kind sir
+Adam Newton Indeed, struggled holding camera whilst on the roof so did a quick point however see my tutorial on pointing th-cam.com/video/V9xt7GVHhyA/w-d-xo.html
I am a pointer by profession and no offence but that is still quite messy when you finished, I know u wanted to do a quick video but it looks like u started keying it off way to quickly mate causing it to smudge a little bit, it also looks like you haven't given it a brush over either.
No you wrong dude, compared to the mess it was and considering the previous work that had been carried out it was that, that smudged the cement all over the brickwork as the before picture demonstrates. I think I have done a very reasonable job considering its previous state. Remember too, these are victorian chimneys and the brick stack is a 150 years old, therefore the bricks are worn by time and weather. Yes it was brushed but remember these were winter conditions and the mortar doesn't go off as quick so you have to wait...this I did and brushed accordingly.
Chris Longhurst thx for the video. I'm gonna give my chimney a try. i can see from the ground that one brick is falling out. should i use a pointing mix to reset it or standard mortar mix? also do you use Lime in your pointing mix?
I recommend you buy a quick point mortar gun that's what I use, it's so much quicker aswell. And it just didn't look like it's been repointed to be honest
joedmac78 your right matey, don't use a mortar gun they are more trouble than they are worth. Most professionals use the traditional methods. Use a 3 x 1 and you can add line as it will stop the mortar from being to brittle and it helps to guard against the sulphites from the flue... Hope you go on OK with the job👍
You should try and rebuild a chimney and avoid pointing. The reason the mortor is shot is because of the acid in the flue gasses that's attacked the mortor over the years from the inside out. You can't point more than an inch at best into a brick joint, so your still.left with all that porous mortor. Not saying it's a bad job just that rebuilding should be the default option...
Talking crap there mate about the gases leaking from the inside, look closely and you'll see the flue is lined and capped, so there's a metal liner all the way up. If it were breeched then products of combustion would fall back into the room below and expose the occupants to carbon monoxide poisoning. A smoke pellet test would catch this problem out, if were to happen . The joints have gone over the passage of time, that's all that happened.
Great job 🇬🇧👍
good for another 100 years mate
Friggin groovey music :-)
My house is gas and my chimney is just used as an exhaust so to speak. We have no fire place. How do you repair the chimney section of the attic? Is it just simple as tuck pointing or what?
How much does this cost roughly mine needs doing don't want to be getting ripped off
I just subscribed to your channel, and I've found you brick videos very helpful! I am getting ready to do some brick repairs on my house, but I'm afraid it may be sloppy work. How long after I put the cement in before I would brush the wall to have a neat repair?
Hi matey, remember different brick absorb water out of the mortar in different measures. For example harder fired bricks will be slow and if your mortar is to wet it will bleed out on the brick face. Use plastersizer and watch how much water you add depending on your brick. When pointing watt until its firm to touch then joint up point up then lightly brush upwards in gentle sweeping motion
Thank you for you quick response. My house was built in the early 1950's, so I'll be trying to match the mortar as well. Actually, I am now looking forward to the task ahead of me. I love TH-cam how to videos!
Hi Chris,
Great video, is a scaffold needed for this kind of job or can it just be done with a ladder?
CJHG91 There was scaffolding up to gutter level I worked off that and used a cat ladder to do the chimney
how does he set up staging to insure a safe platform for that kind of work ?. That seems to be vitally important.
Scaffolding mate or some old school people do it off of roof ladders
No offence. Why would you not use lime mortar to repoint and haunch the chimney ?
what mix.for the top capping of the chimney
and what sand would you use for said capping
+RIO BOW Hi, the sand I used and that I recommend is "sharp" sand in a 3 to 1 ratio,,
+Chris Longhurst thank you Chris.
very much.
and may I say I've watched all your videos and learned a lot.
very informative and interesting cheers.
Chris what is the cost of having that done???
Just day rated-only took me a day!!!-Materials were costed in- £200
@@foundationgood123 that’s nice and cheap! I’ve just bought a Victorian that needs this doing, so glad it’s not extortionate!
What mix you use I got do mine in red
erics vids 4 sand 1 cement 1 lime
Don’t put cement in your mix it’ll ruin the bricks !,,,
is the pointing mix two parts sand one part Portland cement?
joedmac78 xHi thanks for the enquirer, I always use a mix of a 3 part sand and 1 part cement- depending if the chimney is using coal fuel I would add 1 part lime to counter act the sulphurs produced from the fires. Hoped that has helped
Shouldn’t use cement in your mix it’ll ruin the bricks and it’s not breathable. Should’ve used a st astier nhl5 ( as opposed to a 3.5) lime and sand mix for extra strength as the chimney is often the most exposed and weathered part of the roof. You mention using pva to seal the joints..that’s a no no too!
Repointing a chimney this size how much $4,500 usa
With scaffolding @ approx £500 labour two guys at two days ££900🤔
@@foundationgood123 what's that in USA dollars?
@@jamiewatkinson4123 approx 1900 Dollars
No to cheep after taxes u net 1,300 now minus material and gas ur looking at 1000. That's way to low
Chris how much to waterproof this chimney with a water repellent in USA dollars. I'm from the states and need this on my house so I agree $1,900 for the repointing I was wrong at $4,500 way to much on my part so $,1900 on pointing how much to apply a water repellent to a chimney this size$400 USA dollars? Please let me know ty kind sir
Like most video's of people who per port to being professional this work is very substandard and where is the proper scaffolding?
David Dore He's got a scaffold at gutter height Jesus some of us our still real men and can work off a crawler ..
All ways point your perp joints first then do the bed joints mate
+Adam Newton Indeed, struggled holding camera whilst on the roof so did a quick point however see my tutorial on pointing th-cam.com/video/V9xt7GVHhyA/w-d-xo.html
Wow don't bother pva us got be joking pva is not weather proof
I am a pointer by profession and no offence but that is still quite messy when you finished, I know u wanted to do a quick video but it looks like u started keying it off way to quickly mate causing it to smudge a little bit, it also looks like you haven't given it a brush over either.
No you wrong dude, compared to the mess it was and considering the previous work that had been carried out it was that, that smudged the cement all over the brickwork as the before picture demonstrates. I think I have done a very reasonable job considering its previous state. Remember too, these are victorian chimneys and the brick stack is a 150 years old, therefore the bricks are worn by time and weather. Yes it was brushed but remember these were winter conditions and the mortar doesn't go off as quick so you have to wait...this I did and brushed accordingly.
Chris Longhurst thx for the video. I'm gonna give my chimney a try. i can see from the ground that one brick is falling out. should i use a pointing mix to reset it or standard mortar mix? also do you use Lime in your pointing mix?
I recommend you buy a quick point mortar gun that's what I use, it's so much quicker aswell. And it just didn't look like it's been repointed to be honest
james simpson I'm not spending 300 I'll only use it once
joedmac78 your right matey, don't use a mortar gun they are more trouble than they are worth. Most professionals use the traditional methods. Use a 3 x 1 and you can add line as it will stop the mortar from being to brittle and it helps to guard against the sulphites from the flue... Hope you go on OK with the job👍
You should try and rebuild a chimney and avoid pointing. The reason the mortor is shot is because of the acid in the flue gasses that's attacked the mortor over the years from the inside out. You can't point more than an inch at best into a brick joint, so your still.left with all that porous mortor. Not saying it's a bad job just that rebuilding should be the default option...
Talking crap there mate about the gases leaking from the inside, look closely and you'll see the flue is lined and capped, so there's a metal liner all the way up. If it were breeched then products of combustion would fall back into the room below and expose the occupants to carbon monoxide poisoning. A smoke pellet test would catch this problem out, if were to happen . The joints have gone over the passage of time, that's all that happened.