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DIY Step by Step Tuck Pointing By Actual Mason
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2021
- Watch as I demonstrate how to tuck point brick. Tuckpointing/ Tuck Pointing is a skilled trade but with the right tools and patience I’m sure the everyday homeowner can try it. But, personally if I don’t know how to do something and am hesitant I call in the professionals. Thing with brick repair is it can get messy very quickly. Using the right mortar is a plus. And biggest part is acid washing the following day. Just please watch each step of this video and try to mimic each and everything that I try to tech you. Tuck point away!!!
Also for any tuckpointing tools look up the nearest brick yard near you if you have one otherwise Home Depot has what you need also in the masonry isle.
Feel free to comment if you have a question about mortar color matching or what ever else you may be curious about in the brick repair world.

#tuckpointing #brick work. #stone work #masonry. #masonry repair #lintels #diy projects #brick #chimney
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Add acid to the water not water to the acid. It is much safer that way, prevents splashing acid.
As I first watched your video is thought you must be close to Chicago, I noticed the horizontal electrical box on the outside of your house. My son lives in Joliet, IL. When he sent us photos of the house he was looking at that was the first thing I noticed (seems out of place)
Later I found out that Chicago suburbs must have conduit in the walls to minimize fire hazard. That is why the boxes are horizontal, makes it easier to run the conduit and wires.
You are a trip! Proud of you Alley Cat!
Washing the brickwork after grinding is a good tip, let it dry a little and then use dryer mortar to repoint, you will get less smudging ,
and maybe a drop cloth to mortar isnt staining the custo's driveway haha. i wouldve used a slightly smaller tuckpointer personally. from what i could see anyway. not there in person
I do it the same way as this guy, same mix ratio... But I protect the customer's property with a tarp, dump my sand on a 4 X 4 sheet of plywood, wet the joints to be repointed and use a plastic mixing pan... To each his own I suppose.
Great video... very informative...
You can tell a good tradesperson by the way they keep their tools clean
And his tools are mot clean. Amateur hour. Does not explain proper grinding so as not to damage brick. He is wrong about not tooling joint. That forces mortar into the joint and compacts it properly. If you are not sloppy, you do not have to do an acid wash. In regard to flashing, acid reacts with metals. Jr. High chemistry. Worst thing is, NO PPE!!! That surgical mask is useless!!! Minimum is a well fitted N95 mask. Less effective if you have a beard. A rubber facepiece with proper filters even better. Best is full face shield respirator with filtered air feed. Also, ALWAYS use the guard on your grinder! Jesus, shocking how much schlock work is on the net! Mortar type and match is important also, particularly with older brick. Old soft brick is incompatible with portland cement mortars.
Thank you.
Thanks!
I live in crest hill and man you got some skill and also the truth in your voice has a ring to it. Keep up the great work and god bless 🤘😎🤘
great video. thanks. would you recommend type N or type S mortar to fill up the crack? also if the crack goes in the middle of a brick, also to grind it as you did and fill it up?
Thanks for the tutorial! This will help me immensely for today’s project.
Looks good brother. Nice work
Careful with the silica brother . Cement finisher here ! Owner as well best wishes for 2022 keep crushing it
Thanks brother appreciate it!
Wow! So many things I don’t understand about this!
nice!
Great work and funny at the same time.
Add acid to water . Not water to acid.....😊
is there lime in the masanry cement? or was it just portland cement
UK we call it weather struck pointing when you mix the sand and cement why don't you use a rubbish bag you can shake it up and down in bag so much easier and tip in bucket mix it with water that's why I do it👍
Great video man! First hand knowledge really shows. You've probably saved anyone who watches this from making mistakes you had to learn the hard way.
What grinder was that ??
You said it was caused possibly by not using wall ties on that verticle crack. Is tuck pointing alone gonna solve the issue or putting in a wall tie like it's need a better fix? Honest question.
What does a touch up like that pay?
Other than assuming type N 50:50 Portland and lime mix, seems the sand itself is a deciding factor for end game color. Currently down the rabbit hole on my 1952 red scratch brick 6:1:1. Quick Crete says add 3 parts sand to 1 part N type to match said historical mortar 6:1:1 . This tells me 2 parts already included in premix.. so, I mixed 3:1:1 and it seems to match. Now I touch mortar everywhere and study it.
Have you never bought mortar dye? It’s like $30-40 bucks for a little bag. Makes life easy brother
@@nitchmoney6037
Not if you don't know how to use it. You can have the mortar analyzed for type and color.
Great job!
NICE to watch you buddy,,...1 .2 very strong mix my mate ? Be careful mixing in wheel barrow, might get old bits of hard cement in your mix.. the pointer you use is called a Finger trowel or margin trowel in UK .. Just comments only. You are neat !
Cement needs to be strong in Northeast, which I am guessing he is as well... you can't use anything weaker or you will have no joints In a year. Freeze thaw is brutal. AND, the high Portland ratio reduces water permeability. Just have to keep it wet for a week to avoid cracking . And, no one uses drop sheets... it literally sweeps off. What doesn't sweep, hoses. What doesn't hose, grinds....
If your dropping enough to need clothes find a new game
Finally!!!!! Don’t have to waste my energy towards pointless comments. If only people knew what we knew 😁
@@IannoneBuilding
Incorrect. With some brick, high portland will cause spalling of softer older brick. Lime mortar is somewhat self repairing and "breaths". Too hard of mortar can cause major problems.
no shit, i was speaking in general terms referring to modern brick, laid in modern times, in the weather conditions of modern times, in the area of upstate ny. modern brick is hard and glazed/coated, or fired to a temp high enough to cause it to be very water resistant.... Now, when pointing or re-laying old soft bricks whether soft extruded or soft hand made, yes, certainly lime based mortars are the only acceptable option, and depending on where you are and what the exposure of the brick is will determine whether a quicklime hot mix, a quicklime hot mix with pozzoloan, a lime putty, a nhl 2, an nhl 3, or an nhl 5 would be your best course of action, but, once again, since the video was about modern brick, i was making a general statement regarding modern brick.... and, since the weather conditions are extreme here, that is actually the way it is specified. Additionally, lime mortar would not pass our code requirements unless it is used in the restoration of historic masonry structures. I know just a little about this, as I personally hate portland cement, and am one of the only historic masonry restoration outfits in this area, with most of my mentors being european, and research studies being my reference....
@@Jeff_New_Jersey
good tips you should try wetting the joints a little bit bricks soaks up the water and helps the bond
I noticed you don’t put sheets down on driveway to protect from mortar stains as you drop mortar from the joints!
I think that was your best vid so far! Really personable
Unless that house is all faced with engineering bricks the mix is completely wrong, 2:1 or 3:1 for solid engineering bricks in manholes etc , facing bricks on a house 4:1 or 5:1
Great job man thanks for the help!
Agree . I am in desperate need of tuck pointing and repairing.
Amateur hour
I need to do some tuck point on my chimney. What I'm concerned about is my brown metal roof when I go to do the Acid Wash and it gets on the metal roof. thoughts?
If it’s not copper and has some kind of coating over the metal roof your ok. But just to be on the safe side I would use it out of a sprayer and have constant running water on the roof where your chimney is. Also tarps may help just will be a pain
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 Thank you so much! Have a good day
Cool! How can I remove the gray/white stains on the brick if I mess up?...after it dried--thanks
muriatic acid wash
Use 3:1 water and muriatic acid and scrub w Wood Handle Roof Brush. Then scrub with Silicon Carbide Rubbing Brick. Repeat scrubbing with acid mix and spray it off with water. Repeat if and where needed.
shouldnt you wet the bricks slightly first?
Buen jale karnal saludazos
You guys are pros!
Thanks
Can play sand be used? The quickcrete general purpose has too many large pebbles for tuck pointing.
Yes play sand is actually really good to use. I like it a lot but it’s not practical for me since I use alot
I was taught to run the sand through a screen to eliminate larger pieces.
No play sand! Use mason sand.
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670
NO! Playsand can have impurities. Use proper mason sand.
Is the masonry mix grey or white? Does the sand help with color match? I used Quikrete Commercial Mortar mix and the mortar is drying grey. Would an acid wash lighten the mortar? My original mortar is more white (not pure white) - has yellow/orange sand and it appears cream colored all the way through after grinding.
I am experiencing the same exact issue matching the color. I am repairing a fieldstone wall and the existing color is exactly what you describe. In the past I have used regular type s mortar but it dries very grey, almost blue. Have you found a solution to properly match the color? I have been searching for this answer everywhere. This guy says he will tell you exactly what to use and where to get it but never says what the 2 part sand material is and where to buy it, what kind of masonry cement to use (is this just portland cement or something else). Basically the soecific info I was looking for haha.
@@sethfrancissimracing7558 The only way that I've found from supply places is to use white mortar mix or white mason's cement and then use sand that brings down the color. Guys who do this for a living like the guy in the video have buckets of various colored sand. I think you can also use tints when you mix premix but they come out too solid looking. So if you are using white mortar then yellow or brown sand it should tint it almost buff (sort of light beige). What I found with mine is if you acid etch the mortar and brush it the sand in the mortar will be exposed since you are basically dissolving some of the cement's "cream" that is at the top. I did this with a 20% muriatic wash and brush and it brought toned down the grey a lot. My dad used to basically "cook" the mortar with almost 100% muratic which is REALLY stupid because it makes the mortar brittle and it will crack. It made the mortar very yellow as well.
On mine it cured a very light grey - not white or cream but tonal grey. If the sand was white it would have been more white. The sand in the Quikrete Commercial is yellow/tan sand. Much better in match when you acid wash it. If you mix the cement/sand mixture yourself I think it would come out better and then you don't have to hard acid wash it. Getting white here in St Louis is almost impossible - so far.
@@stim141 thank you very much for the reply! This is actually very helpful, I will be doing a repair on a stone wall tomorrow so when I go to the supply store in the morning ill see what materials I can find. Thank you again for the information!
@@sethfrancissimracing7558 he said type N cement. but in premixed mortars there are several colors... actually a dozen. you probably have the lighter color.. Not found at big box stores you need to go to a fireplace hearth supply where they have all the designer colors.
@@sethfrancissimracing7558
Get a lab analysis fir color and mix
can you use a mortar bag and get similar results? and what about type N preblended bag of mortar. as long as the color matchews?
I use Type S pre blended mortar and mix it with Portland cement. In my experience, preblended mortar is usually garbage and if I was good enough to make my own I would, but I’m not so my husband and I just add Portland cement (he’s not a brick guy and I had to learn for our business). Second, I do not recommend a grout bag if you want an aesthetically appealing wall when you’re done. There is way too much smudge and room for error with a sloppier mix. Just use the hawk and pointing tools, you’ll be thankful afterward for the minimal clean up.
The mortar should be the consistency of a fresh bag of brown sugar.
Mortar type is not about color but final 28 day strength of the mortar. There are usually types M, S, O, N (comes from letters of Mason.) It has to do with sand to cement to hydrated lime proportions.
@@Cheri434
Yes, a drier mix compared to mortar for laying brick is recommended.
what's an appropriate price- rate for a mason to perform such a task?
Normal pointing, not full joints, you left loose materials in the joints but pretty clean
I have a BRICK-POINTING buisness in Massachusetts on the Rhode Island border and I'm sure u can agree there more money in pointing than actual structural masonry
Yes if your quik and neat there is definitely Money to be made especially doing chimney work. But if your a quick bricklayer there definitely money in that also. But more money in restoration work forsure. And there will always be work.
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 more money in BRICK-POINTING all day long
Have you started you season yet?
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 tommorw in Providence RI
You are so articulate and a great teacher! I love how you emphasized to go slow.
You are NOT Tuck Pointing sir. Tuck pointing is a fine art carried out by highly skilled craftsmen. What you demonstrate here is repair and replace re poimting👍
Sorry brother. I just like to act like I’m a tuckpointer. Yes Iam a fake. You got me!
sure looked like tuck pointing to me…
@@bobwhelk2117 i guess it takes all kinds of people to make a world huh!👍
so when does your video drop?
@@RayFury pmsl are you for real?😂😂😂
So 2 parts sand...1 part masonry cement. How much water do you use for that mix? Or do you eyeball it?
Use 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and mix dry. Then slowly ad water until you get an thick oatmeal consistency. Let set for couple days then mix 3 parts water to once part muriatic acid. And wet wall and apply solution to work area. Let set for 30seconds and wash with water.
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 In the vid you said 2 to 1.
I know I messed up. It’s 3:1
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 Thanks for clearing it up. Maybe make a note in the description. I would have used the 2:1 ratio had I not read the comments. Nice vid btw.
FROM THE START OF THE VIDEO I THOUGHT HE SOUNDED LIKE RICKY AND THEN HE SAID WAY SHE GOES LMFAOOOO
It’s the F’n way she goes Rand
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I watched this as a crash course to go do a sidejob and make three $20s but the job went sideways (we broke the garage) and no one got paid lmfaooo
Thanks from Bloomington, IL. Good video.
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything?
Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore?
Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
@@damnwankers yes use a grout bag… type N masonry cement 3:1 sand to cement ratio
The dude on the grey wall…that guy had the skills to pay the bills definitely
Wash the wall after grind Israel a canvas tarp u making lot of mass
how deep is the minimum you need to fill?
2x joint width. Typical nominal 3/8" joints require 3/4" depth minimum...
Do you have a website? I'm looking for a quote for a small house in Bridgeview IL. thanks
Yes brothers masonry and tuckpointing out of oak lawn.
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thanks I just left a message. I can email pictures but I didn't see an email on the website. It's my mother's house that needs work.
@@aliriebjj text my cell with the info. 872-400-0985
Get em OSHA where's the guard on the grinder?!?!?
😭😭😭😭😭
So it’s masonry cement, water and what was the other substance sand? I don’t think you mentioned?
2 1/2 parts mason sand or play sand to 1 part type N cement. Water as needed until oatmeal consistency
Mix sand and cement fry first then add water
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thank you for the prompt response my fellow tradesman. I see you guys out there as I instal tile. Your expertise has common ground with ceramic applications that I’m used to, so keep up the the thorough work and don’t forget to care for your own health in advance. You owe it to yourself and those you serve my friend.
Nice but this isn't tuckpointing 👀Not on my side of the pond anyway, we have different terms for everything so wouldn't be surprised if this is a case of exactly that lol
What you might want to do is, wet in ! And hoover the bricks !
This is pointing, not tuck pointing. Tuck pointing is a totally different process.
Pointing dusty joints? Yikes!!
Hands down the best crack repair video I’ve seen!
This is not crack repair and lots of bad things happening here...OMG!
Also. It’s easier to just pour the dry mortar into said coffee can, instead of ripping bag open and use a trowel
Always open to learning more. I was using a drill this year but leo and Youcef burnt it up already 😞
I'm not always right but I'm only wrong twice a year.
Why use grey mortar when white mortar exists and would match this house much better?
The mortar will change colors as it dries and will lighten significantly over the following days.
@@genecarden780
This is why you do a test, and let it cure at least 14 days.
@@Jeff_New_Jersey or in my case 10 tests😜
That's not tuckpointing, it just regular repointing
Agree, and get yourself a spray bottle 😢 always have a damp sponge ready as you go.
I call that tuck pointing bc he’s pushing it straight off the hawk into the joint. I would never do it that way. I scoop it onto my tool than put it into said joint
@@nitchmoney6037hawking is much quicker
@@nitchmoney6037 tuckpointing is a method that leaves a raised ribbon in the mortar joints. It isn't very common anymore, especially in North America.
3:07 why make more work for yourself making a mess. Honest question ❤
That day my sand was frozen in the morning I had to take it out to cut it up
Use a sandwich blade..so much easier
Why do you acid wash?
Gives a neat and clean appearance as well aas blends in the work so it’s not an eye sore
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 thanks. I have to point my sister's house soon and I'm trying to get all the info I can. Good video
Shout out menards
Ummmm nah they dident pay for it 😎
Dirty tools means rough Tradesman
2 to 1 mix Is way to strong, the mortar should never be stronger than the brick, that will crack after 1 winter, also it won't colour match up, as the rest of the wall is a 3:1 maybe 4:1 then your re pointing is 2:1 ittl look different and crack, have a look into using lime morter as well, especially on older buildings good effort though 👍
Me and many other masons I know have been using this mix for a very long time. That’s what I was taught on. I worked for a bunch of different people back then. Also after I wash it the work blends in perfectly every time. But I hear ya on why your saying that. I guess those are my ratios I know by nature. Where are you from ?
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 yeah fair enough mate and England, we do it abit different over here 👍
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I’m from chicago. Point the exact same way you do. Every single thing.
I’ve ever seen a trade done so different in each part of the world.
Lately my mortar has been smearing. Turns the job to a nightmare. Thanks for the tip on that!!!! Should help me a ton.
Your joints are super even and clean before you scrape to… I need to improve on that as well
@@-pschar4290 it all comes with time. Dont know how long you have been doing it but it’s a true art to master
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 I'm pointing an outbuilding on my house thats from like 1900s...so, just a lot of mortar between a lot of larger rocks...no brick. Would you still use the 2:1 ratio for that type of structure? I'm in Milwaukee so I it'll be the same climate as IL. @pschar
How can I hire you?
Brickdoctor1999@gmail.com
How did u get some many subscribers so fast?
With some simple seo work and the video I recently posted it all came together and worked out well. Important things are a good description and title as well as tags and good content.
What’s your company name.. I’d like a quote..
Brickdoctor1999@gmail.com please email me
Thank you for pointing the right way with a tool,,,not a bag,i just cringe when i see people using a bag,i neen doing masonry restoration for 30 yrs,
Bro, that was so clutch... you just took ALL the anxiety out of doing this job. Thank you!!
Very nice. Bob Ross of tuck pointing
No dust extration leaves dirty bricks and drops shit in your fresh mortar below.
not wetting joints before pointing can dry mortar out to quick and fail.
But great work apart from that
Horrible work. Prewetting is required. Also, as of 2019 OSHA requires contractors to use dust extraction and proper PPE. This guy should get a fat fine from OSHA if post 2019...
Always add acid to water! Not water to acid!
Trabajas para una compania oh para ti mismo
Eso es me compania
@@midwestbrickdoctor6670 oh okay sigue para delante amigo. yo también trabajo en la construcción
Good job but clean your tools bro and watch when your cleaning all the chips is falling into your mortor
Dirty tools is a non-starter...Next!
Clean out the joint first.
Color changes as it cures. Need to do a sample. That hous looks rekatively new and already needs repointing??? Sad commentary on the original work!
Grout bag is the best way to fill up joints
The mix would be too wet and shrink, right?
That’s not tuckpointing
Sorry your not a tuck pointer. Lots of mistakes
Shame he don’t know how to clean his tools,,,poor suppose tradesman l think not
No way this is tuck pointing ya cowboy , absolute rubbish
DIY if I want to buy $1000 worth of shit. Jesus Christ just buy some caulk or some shit