Honestly so glad you started the bog series back up, I've been using it as a kind of guide for fixing up my 2000 600 indy xc deluxe! Was sad to see the series never got completed until now! Great videos as always.
@Powermodz -I had a Polaris with the 550 fan, very similar. I had the same bog issue, I rebuilt the motor, new reeds, rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump, changing and adjusting the enricher valves and rebuilt the primary clutches in the hopes of getting rid of the bog. After many head aches, carb adjustments and jets/needle adjusting I narrowed it down to one carb. I vacuum tested it an all. It would start fine and on the low end was perfect. Everything about it screamed it operated normally. I placed sled on stand and ran it at 4-5k for a few minutes and shot each side of the exhaust port with a temp gun, one side was reading a lot hotter than the other. I purchased a used carb off eBay and rebuilt it with the rebuild kit I had bought previously and the bog was instantly gone. So just a heads up if shes still bogging give a carb swap a try.
I have to say, it's great seeing this channel. I watched all of your early stuff (rev vids) and followed the growth over the years. So happy for you! You helped me get through school!
Have one of these, too. I was frustrated with the low end bog as well. Every old school Polaris guy I talked to said this is because it is a piston port engine. Has to do with fuel timing and air flow. The port in the pistons acts as a valve the same way reeds do. Only reeds react much faster. They all said to tune it as best you can and then clutch it to engage higher up, out of the bog.
I had an issue dress like this on some of my older 90s Polaris am I she was my choke was sticking so it would bog really bad once I adjusted it ran great. Keep up the good work so glad you brought the series back!
Ha see that sea foam you put in 3 years ago just needed some more time to regenerate the sled, 3 more years and she'll be like brand new. Love the coyote helmet. Glad you're back on this.
Just finish with this problem . To start, i wasp out engine same carbs same bog out, pour response at low RPM . Air box has some fuel in it, air screw does nothing , So readjusted float to have less gas in bowl . I set it all back up and know air screw works . I run it , stop and go many times , no bog . To me the floats need to be replace . It was running fine for years before ! So fare this is working for me . Thanks Yvon
Good lord have I been waiting for this. I have a 88 Indy 340 with this same problem. It’s definitely a fuel issue. I even have to pull plugs and dump gas to cold start her. It runs like hell low to mid rpm. But WOT she runs like a champ. I call her my chainsaw.
And why if everything is stock would the jetting need to be changed. Is compression/suck different than factory? Is fuel from 30-40 years so different it requires re-jetting? I know many who are perplexed by “the Bog”.
I have the same exact sled except it is a deluxe model and it’s a absolute ripper! It sat for 15 years and we replaced the gas, fuel filter, carbs cleaned, and it runs like a top. I made a couple videos on my channel showing it off!
That thing looks just like my Yamaha excel!! It smokes the same way, it bogs the same way, you have to (pedal to the metal) the same way, time for a 583 swap, great vids too!!
Arkansas I'm pretty sure it's Arkansas... call James Leonard... order some.... start using it... your stuff won't break it'll run like a champ all of it your car your lawn tractor your snowmobile all of it your chainsaw all of it... it's good stuff I swear by it , I know some other people that also do... good luck with the Indy lite..
WHOLLY CARPOLA! I loterally just watched the series last week and was like, WELL SHIT, there is no ending! Glad you got to it man! Now to watch it lol.
That machine sounds like its running pig-rich to me. I would say it is taking in extra fuel somewhere or airbox passage is clogged. Take it for a ride with the airbox removed to eliminate air duct blockage. I would also throw a timing light on there quick to verify ignition timing quick too. Then check carb body to float bowl o-rings(on those old style polaris mikunis with main jet in the side of bowl), fuel pump, or any possible area for engine to suck in extra fuel.
We have that exact same sled same colour and everything my Dad bought it brand new and they are surprisingly quick. Anyway I'll give a tip because we rebuilt ours and is working like new but during a run last winter that foam padding heat deflector attached to the hood above the exhaust fell off on a ride and almost caught on fire got pulled over and got flames put out before any damaged happened thankfully. Anyways I guess the glue that holds it to the hood dried up over the years and that's what happened so make sure that it's still attached good. Cheers👍
had that same sled but brand new it always ran lean always bogged down in deep snow had to get off & push to get it moving it's a trail sled only. my 440 super sport those mixture screws came loose always had to open them on the trail several times/day ended up putting nail polish on the threads
I rode Indy lite 340, 6ft 250lbs rode that thing 175 miles trip in 12 hrs, they had no suspension, but it ran great got me threw some 4 foot deep snow in northern Michigan
Also the rubber carburetor boots... they connect carburetor to the engine... if you let it sit outside that rubber can deteriorate and get cracks in it... you might want to check to make sure there are no cracks in those rubber intake manifolds... if you will... no cracks... air leaks... good luck with it
I have this exact sled for my 10 year old daughter to ride. It's a ripper! Need to make sure you use Polaris coolant...otherwise it's no good. 😁. Keep them coming!
Here's another tip... you can use this in all your sleds... there's a product called No More friction ionic friction reducer... molecular friction modifier.... I tested this product in about 2008 with my Freightliner fld120 against the mountain in Kentucky that I was climbing twice a week because that's what my job was at the time... instead of 36 miles per hour at the top of that mountain I had 46 miles per hour after adding no more friction... gross vehicle weight at the time about 70,000 pounds.... I use no more friction ionic friction reducer in my Polaris Storm... in the chaincase... in the injector oil... in the gasoline... and in the grease.... you want your sled to be fast.... you want your pickup truck to be trouble-free... get yourself some no more friction ionic friction reducer from Oklahoma Arkansas somewhere down there.... happy trails... TR Michigan... and PS..... also in the antifreeze nmf mixes with water... it de friction izes every part of every machine basically
Try this. I have a xc600. Fighting a major problem with a bog. Did everything possible. One day I noticed it seemed to run better with the hood open. Ripped it through the feild holding the hood open. No bog ran like new. Closed the hood. Then bog. Exhaust had pin hole causing leak causing fumes to suck into the carb.
Check the secondary spring strength and what the primary clutch engagement RPM and what RPM it has through the pull. Steel springs weaken over time, so then the clutching gets thrown out of whack, and its like someone is always short-shifting your car before you hit the power band.
Raise the needles up one notch that should help richen her up a bit. For testing purposes id just close the air screws before I change any jets. You'll get it fixed soon.
Exactly, I stated raising the needles, lower the clips. The sled will rip with some fuel. These carbs run on the needles, right now it is just way too lean. Pilots may help with the transition to the needles. Great videos, much more enjoyable than the political bs.
I have a 1997 Polaris Indy storm 800 Triple Black... 2300 miles... it has three 38 mm Mikuni's on it... I wrench on it more than I ride it... it is the snappiest with the air screws adjusted to 1 and 1/16 turn out... right where they were on Yours... before you decided to go a turn and a half... a turn and a half out is too lean... 1 1/16 turnout.... and then just ride it and it should fix itself... they don't like to sit outside... basically like any female doesn't like to do... happy trails TR Michigan...
@2:32 I know what the problem is. That drive belt should be sticking up above the secondary clutch by about 1/8". Take shims out of that secondary. For starters.
My old xcr didnt like that dayco maxx belt one bit either, low speed backshift is way better on a new polaris belt. dayco maxx is just too soft for machines that are clutched for a hard belt. This 340 has bigger issues though. Best start at this point is making sure carbs, jets, needles, needle jet, throttle slides, clutch springs and weights are all correct to the sled. Lots of idiots out there that rather than properly cleaning carbs just get another set they think is the same or they order a rebuild kit they think is right, and far too often people try to swap jets around or change needle heights to make something run right that has has a crank seal out, low compression, bad clutch etc.. check the ignition timing also or at least make sure there is not extra witness marks visible on the stater showing its been moved at some point.
Great come back on the old Indy..I have a ? Not sure if this will be read or not but I have an o2 skidoo touring ,rebuilt engine + carbs done .Every now n then while driving she'll stall out on the trail,seems to happen after gas added or cold day.It just happened to me the other day on the trail ,I left her sit got the misses yammy went back to toe her in n added a little gas antifreeze n whoa started drive home.Can lines freezing up while driving be the problem??
Seems like pretty much all the old polaris fanners have that slight low end bog to em. And polaris never really changed the carb setup on them throughout the entire production. Got the same bog issue as you. I'm about ready to chop it down to the lower compression numbers these motors run and say she runs mint... I also noticed on the 440 fanners that the SPI pistons aren't as close to the head as the Wiseco's, and I've had the rings come from the factory with too big of a ring gap from SPI/noname brand 😂
Put the air screws back at 1 and 1/16 turn out... pour some berryman's B12 chemtool into the fuel... it will make the fuel extremely volatile... and it will also clean things as you ride... the sled should fix itself
Two things. Is there not a bleeder on the oil pump and since the coils and stator are not adjustable I would suspect a timing issue. Perhaps low voltage or something
Got the same propblem on my Polaris indy 600 2001, sound like a scooter!#?%$$$ running on one cylinder and I've rebuild the engine, flush and clean carbs, change sparkplug, coil and wire, CDI computer, maybe we will find it soon ahahah!!
I came to the conclusion that my ol skidoo perhaps needed a fuel pump cuz the rpm ceiling kept getting lower and clutch work is out of the question and sure enough a carb reclean and a new pump and shes better than ever
Have you checked to make sure the choke plungers are seating all the way in whet the choke is off? There should be a little play in the choke lever. Also, are the carbs/throttle cables synced? If not, one cylinder will be doing more work than the other, causing a bog.
I Watched series 1-7.. So Wait, Wait ...why did it run so much better when you started it, after all this time with 1 turn on idle A/f screws? Is this because of the assembly oil not burned out years before? Like you said.. OK...Turn the idle air screws to (1 1/4) and take it out, run the heck out of it for an hour, then check the compression. And see how it feels.
Hello, I'm thinking it's the spark plug coil pack. When it heats up weak spark causes the snowmobile to hesitate and feel weak/boggy. What do you think?
We have 2 indy 488’s. One has a bog like this and the other runs like a top. The only difference between the two is the voltage regulator isn’t working right on the good running one. Which means the light and hand warmers don’t work. I think there is a coil/magneto problem with the sleds that bog and would like to hear your thoughts on that
The first time u ripped around the yard in this video that was pretty much normal Polaris bog mixed with to much oil. I haven’t seen a Polaris 340 440 or 500 that didn’t have a bog to them. Check your jets may help. Carb kit can make a big difference
Hey thanks, ya the carbs are rebuilt, there is lots of oil for sure until I know the oil pump is working after the rebuild. I'll probably disconnect it and just run premix 50 to 1
I’m the guy that said it would s a plugged exhaust. YOU STILL HAVE A PLUGGED EXHAUST! It is a TUNED PIPE and it is out of tune because it still has SHIT in it. Find one from a running sled and swap it out. Kids!
I liked the idea to put the pipe in a fire. What I think would be cooler is to hook a propane weed burner up to one end and have fire out the other end of the pipe. Burn that mouse house down!!!!!
How long do you think it would need to run before we could trust the spark plug color to get an idea of the air fuel ratios in general? I feel like with the rpm at which the bog is occurring would make it pretty tough.
is this a fan cooled??? because i got a older polaris indy,, idk the year ecactly, but i think its a fan cooled and when the weather is hot, it bogs down, like im running on one cylinder,
I have a disappointment . Friend went for a good run after it got hot it bog out again , after it cool down away he went . It runs better but need to look for more . My question is . so what cools down to make it run better again .
Those old Fuji engines are awesome. The 340, 440 and 488's where some of the best engines ever for simplicity and basic needs. Easy to rebuild too.
I agree
Doing one now and couldnt agree more. Perfect first engine rebuild for my 8yr old son and I. When its done he gets to ride it all winter
Honestly so glad you started the bog series back up, I've been using it as a kind of guide for fixing up my 2000 600 indy xc deluxe! Was sad to see the series never got completed until now! Great videos as always.
Glad I could help!
Friend of mine has 4 of these here in the states! One of them being a 250cc. These are awesome machines!
@Powermodz -I had a Polaris with the 550 fan, very similar. I had the same bog issue, I rebuilt the motor, new reeds, rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump, changing and adjusting the enricher valves and rebuilt the primary clutches in the hopes of getting rid of the bog. After many head aches, carb adjustments and jets/needle adjusting I narrowed it down to one carb. I vacuum tested it an all. It would start fine and on the low end was perfect. Everything about it screamed it operated normally. I placed sled on stand and ran it at 4-5k for a few minutes and shot each side of the exhaust port with a temp gun, one side was reading a lot hotter than the other. I purchased a used carb off eBay and rebuilt it with the rebuild kit I had bought previously and the bog was instantly gone. So just a heads up if shes still bogging give a carb swap a try.
I might have to!
I have literally graduated school and been working for for 5 years and still haven't seen the end of this series haha! love it
lol, maybe ill be done by the time you retire!
I have to say, it's great seeing this channel. I watched all of your early stuff (rev vids) and followed the growth over the years. So happy for you! You helped me get through school!
Kinda worries me.. I'm about to "fix" a bog on my 96 488 fanner. Lol
@@adamkleinschmidt3041 ive been trying to fix mine for about as long as it took for this video!
@@johnkosar8353 I totally get it now.. did a rebuild and still runs like trash lol. Anyone want a sled in WI?
#8 recommended to me in 2021, so i had to go back to 2017 to watch from the beginning. I need closure. Re-jet that sucker and get it rippin!
Yet another example of how old sleds have a positive effect on Mother Nature. Animal habitat!
Exactly
My dad had a ‘91 Lite. Once the engine was warm, you could grab the primary and give it a pull and it would start with your hands!
I've seen someone start their sled that way, and it worked...
Have one of these, too. I was frustrated with the low end bog as well. Every old school Polaris guy I talked to said this is because it is a piston port engine. Has to do with fuel timing and air flow. The port in the pistons acts as a valve the same way reeds do. Only reeds react much faster. They all said to tune it as best you can and then clutch it to engage higher up, out of the bog.
Ya thats what im thinking
I had an issue dress like this on some of my older 90s Polaris am I she was my choke was sticking so it would bog really bad once I adjusted it ran great. Keep up the good work so glad you brought the series back!
Ha see that sea foam you put in 3 years ago just needed some more time to regenerate the sled, 3 more years and she'll be like brand new. Love the coyote helmet. Glad you're back on this.
That's the plan!
2 pulls no doubt,it's a Polaris 🏁
Mine have a bug to but 1 pull and start ahah
I have one that have been sitting for over 1 years and no carburator clean 2 pull started right up!
Just finish with this problem . To start, i wasp out engine same carbs same bog out, pour response at low RPM . Air box has some fuel in it, air screw does nothing , So readjusted float to have less gas in bowl . I set it all back up and know air screw works . I run it , stop and go many times , no bog . To me the floats need to be replace . It was running fine for years before ! So fare this is working for me .
Thanks Yvon
Good to know!
This has taken longer, then my grey hair lol. Thanks for the great content
Well....youll notice I have more grey hair!
@@PowerModzOfficial it happens fast lol
Good lord have I been waiting for this. I have a 88 Indy 340 with this same problem. It’s definitely a fuel issue. I even have to pull plugs and dump gas to cold start her. It runs like hell low to mid rpm. But WOT she runs like a champ. I call her my chainsaw.
And why if everything is stock would the jetting need to be changed. Is compression/suck different than factory? Is fuel from 30-40 years so different it requires re-jetting? I know many who are perplexed by “the Bog”.
I have the same exact sled except it is a deluxe model and it’s a absolute ripper! It sat for 15 years and we replaced the gas, fuel filter, carbs cleaned, and it runs like a top. I made a couple videos on my channel showing it off!
Very nice!
I was new here 5 weeks ago when I was reviving some 27 year old sleds, the big series was my instructional, so glad it's back again haha
Muffler bearings and coolant along with that crazy awesome fur helmet make for great videos Lou. Entertaining and informative, appreciate it. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it
That thing looks just like my Yamaha excel!! It smokes the same way, it bogs the same way, you have to (pedal to the metal) the same way, time for a 583 swap, great vids too!!
Also working on a Indy lite with a top end bog, please continue
Would love to see you do an old Yamaha phazer always liked them old phazer1 and phazer2 super iconic especially white and red ones
Would be boring trying to fix a sled that’s never broken 😆😆😆
problem is they never fail
Yeah I had that same problem with the coolent and muffler bearing. All I had to do was smack around a few no it all's and it was fixed. Great vids bud
Arkansas I'm pretty sure it's Arkansas... call James Leonard... order some.... start using it... your stuff won't break it'll run like a champ all of it your car your lawn tractor your snowmobile all of it your chainsaw all of it... it's good stuff I swear by it , I know some other people that also do... good luck with the Indy lite..
WHOLLY CARPOLA! I loterally just watched the series last week and was like, WELL SHIT, there is no ending! Glad you got to it man! Now to watch it lol.
Great. Im just a home mechanic. But i think i hear that its strugles with one of the clutches also. Nice that you continue this bog series 👍👍//SWEDEN
Ill check again!
That machine sounds like its running pig-rich to me. I would say it is taking in extra fuel somewhere or airbox passage is clogged. Take it for a ride with the airbox removed to eliminate air duct blockage. I would also throw a timing light on there quick to verify ignition timing quick too. Then check carb body to float bowl o-rings(on those old style polaris mikunis with main jet in the side of bowl), fuel pump, or any possible area for engine to suck in extra fuel.
I agree one size up on pilots then tune with air screw and needles. bet it goes good with that. fun series!
Yesss. Its back!
You did set the carb hight at the one point. I think it’s best set them with much smaller gauge as well. Then check the main cable that pulls both.
Those in indy 340s are the best I have a fully mod one that had a dirt bike exhaust coming out the side
We have that exact same sled same colour and everything my Dad bought it brand new and they are surprisingly quick. Anyway I'll give a tip because we rebuilt ours and is working like new but during a run last winter that foam padding heat deflector attached to the hood above the exhaust fell off on a ride and almost caught on fire got pulled over and got flames put out before any damaged happened thankfully. Anyways I guess the glue that holds it to the hood dried up over the years and that's what happened so make sure that it's still attached good. Cheers👍
had that same sled but brand new it always ran lean always bogged down in deep snow had to get off & push to get it moving it's a trail sled only. my 440 super sport those mixture screws came loose always had to open them on the trail several times/day ended up putting nail polish on the threads
For a 340 fan, I guess we don't expect miracles. Looks like it will still be a good bushmobile
I rode Indy lite 340, 6ft 250lbs rode that thing 175 miles trip in 12 hrs, they had no suspension, but it ran great got me threw some 4 foot deep snow in northern Michigan
Yesss i wanted this series more i just finished binging all the others
Also the rubber carburetor boots... they connect carburetor to the engine... if you let it sit outside that rubber can deteriorate and get cracks in it... you might want to check to make sure there are no cracks in those rubber intake manifolds... if you will... no cracks... air leaks... good luck with it
I checked and they are good!
@@PowerModzOfficial copy that... pretty nice little sled you got there... looks to be in pretty good shape
I have this exact sled for my 10 year old daughter to ride. It's a ripper! Need to make sure you use Polaris coolant...otherwise it's no good. 😁. Keep them coming!
"Sorry Greta". Priceless.
Here's another tip... you can use this in all your sleds... there's a product called No More friction ionic friction reducer... molecular friction modifier.... I tested this product in about 2008 with my Freightliner fld120 against the mountain in Kentucky that I was climbing twice a week because that's what my job was at the time... instead of 36 miles per hour at the top of that mountain I had 46 miles per hour after adding no more friction... gross vehicle weight at the time about 70,000 pounds.... I use no more friction ionic friction reducer in my Polaris Storm... in the chaincase... in the injector oil... in the gasoline... and in the grease.... you want your sled to be fast.... you want your pickup truck to be trouble-free... get yourself some no more friction ionic friction reducer from Oklahoma Arkansas somewhere down there.... happy trails... TR Michigan... and PS..... also in the antifreeze nmf mixes with water... it de friction izes every part of every machine basically
Try this. I have a xc600. Fighting a major problem with a bog. Did everything possible. One day I noticed it seemed to run better with the hood open. Ripped it through the feild holding the hood open. No bog ran like new. Closed the hood. Then bog. Exhaust had pin hole causing leak causing fumes to suck into the carb.
Interesting ill try that
Check the secondary spring strength and what the primary clutch engagement RPM and what RPM it has through the pull. Steel springs weaken over time, so then the clutching gets thrown out of whack, and its like someone is always short-shifting your car before you hit the power band.
It's a new spring
Raise the needles up one notch that should help richen her up a bit. For testing purposes id just close the air screws before I change any jets. You'll get it fixed soon.
Exactly, I stated raising the needles, lower the clips. The sled will rip with some fuel. These carbs run on the needles, right now it is just way too lean. Pilots may help with the transition to the needles. Great videos, much more enjoyable than the political bs.
much appreciated from a fellow boggy indy lite owner
Oh yeah clean the clutch check the jets, make sure your headlight fluid is topped off and your good to go.
Thanks for the tip, blinker fluid too.
@@PowerModzOfficial that might be your bog and put some chrome pipes on it the chrome adds powa
@@PowerModzOfficial lol
I've been waiting for this video 3 years
Sorry it took so long
Another year and we still don't have a final conclusion...we are dying over here 🤣
"Sorry Greta!" Haha, that is the moment I hit the thumbs up button.
I have a 1997 Polaris Indy storm 800 Triple Black... 2300 miles... it has three 38 mm Mikuni's on it... I wrench on it more than I ride it... it is the snappiest with the air screws adjusted to 1 and 1/16 turn out... right where they were on Yours... before you decided to go a turn and a half... a turn and a half out is too lean... 1 1/16 turnout.... and then just ride it and it should fix itself... they don't like to sit outside... basically like any female doesn't like to do... happy trails TR Michigan...
A leaf blower works well to check exhaust flow.
great idea!
That is an awesome winter hat! Great video too!
Thanks!
@2:32 I know what the problem is. That drive belt should be sticking up above the secondary clutch by about 1/8". Take shims out of that secondary. For starters.
My old xcr didnt like that dayco maxx belt one bit either, low speed backshift is way better on a new polaris belt. dayco maxx is just too soft for machines that are clutched for a hard belt. This 340 has bigger issues though. Best start at this point is making sure carbs, jets, needles, needle jet, throttle slides, clutch springs and weights are all correct to the sled. Lots of idiots out there that rather than properly cleaning carbs just get another set they think is the same or they order a rebuild kit they think is right, and far too often people try to swap jets around or change needle heights to make something run right that has has a crank seal out, low compression, bad clutch etc.. check the ignition timing also or at least make sure there is not extra witness marks visible on the stater showing its been moved at some point.
Great come back on the old Indy..I have a ? Not sure if this will be read or not but I have an o2 skidoo touring ,rebuilt engine + carbs done .Every now n then while driving she'll stall out on the trail,seems to happen after gas added or cold day.It just happened to me the other day on the trail ,I left her sit got the misses yammy went back to toe her in n added a little gas antifreeze n whoa started drive home.Can lines freezing up while driving be the problem??
might be a wiring issue after it gets warm
Try changing the oil pump. When they fail they put too much oil in and that's why it would smoke so much at idle
Seems like pretty much all the old polaris fanners have that slight low end bog to em. And polaris never really changed the carb setup on them throughout the entire production. Got the same bog issue as you. I'm about ready to chop it down to the lower compression numbers these motors run and say she runs mint... I also noticed on the 440 fanners that the SPI pistons aren't as close to the head as the Wiseco's, and I've had the rings come from the factory with too big of a ring gap from SPI/noname brand 😂
I'm with ya Louie, gotta be the coolant, them Indy lights are famous for that issue!
Yup
Yep, that and the brake fluid that indy lites have
I had one of these when i was young, it’s very good sled for anyone looking for one
Put the air screws back at 1 and 1/16 turn out... pour some berryman's B12 chemtool into the fuel... it will make the fuel extremely volatile... and it will also clean things as you ride... the sled should fix itself
Ill check it out!
Adjust the pin in the carburetter plunger by the throttle cable Maybe that will help
Two things. Is there not a bleeder on the oil pump and since the coils and stator are not adjustable I would suspect a timing issue. Perhaps low voltage or something
I like this whole bog series for Sure 😃
Still working on it!
Got the same propblem on my Polaris indy 600 2001, sound like a scooter!#?%$$$ running on one cylinder and I've rebuild the engine, flush and clean carbs, change sparkplug, coil and wire, CDI computer, maybe we will find it soon ahahah!!
I came to the conclusion that my ol skidoo perhaps needed a fuel pump cuz the rpm ceiling kept getting lower and clutch work is out of the question and sure enough a carb reclean and a new pump and shes better than ever
Thats great!
Have you checked to make sure the choke plungers are seating all the way in whet the choke is off? There should be a little play in the choke lever. Also, are the carbs/throttle cables synced? If not, one cylinder will be doing more work than the other, causing a bog.
You bet!
I had a problem similiar to that, my fuel filter was plugged!
Thanks Louie, keep it coming!
I Watched series 1-7.. So Wait, Wait ...why did it run so much better when you started it, after all this time with 1 turn on idle A/f screws?
Is this because of the assembly oil not burned out years before? Like you said.. OK...Turn the idle air screws to (1 1/4) and take it out, run the heck out of it for an hour, then check the compression. And see how it feels.
Needles in the carb slide! Set it all to factory and if it doesn't run its in the clutching, cdi, or belt is not correct!
Yes il be trying that for sure - Ill lower the needle to lean
Direct drive 340 good for the kids to learn on
The best way I found to clean snowmobile exhaust with mice Nest is to take the whole can write off and just throw it in a fire
Any progress? Id love to know the culprit of the bog.
Well that CVT box didn't look that bad... 😂
I wanna see#9 video. Im having same problem.
Hello, I'm thinking it's the spark plug coil pack. When it heats up weak spark causes the snowmobile to hesitate and feel weak/boggy. What do you think?
Trapper hat is wicked Awesome!
Thanks!
We have 2 indy 488’s. One has a bog like this and the other runs like a top. The only difference between the two is the voltage regulator isn’t working right on the good running one. Which means the light and hand warmers don’t work. I think there is a coil/magneto problem with the sleds that bog and would like to hear your thoughts on that
Could be, I'll be replacing the cdi, the magneto I dont have a new one - but would replace if I could find one
These sleds are direct drive, meaning no chain case so the gearing is never perfect, thats why they bog so much.
Maybe it’s the needles. Jets are 1/2-full throttle. If bogs less than 1/2 throttle maybe needles. Raise the needle to richen.
Yes Ill try that as well.
The first time u ripped around the yard in this video that was pretty much normal Polaris bog mixed with to much oil. I haven’t seen a Polaris 340 440 or 500 that didn’t have a bog to them. Check your jets may help. Carb kit can make a big difference
Hey power mods I grew up around these sleds working on them if u have any questions I may be able to help u
Hey thanks, ya the carbs are rebuilt, there is lots of oil for sure until I know the oil pump is working after the rebuild. I'll probably disconnect it and just run premix 50 to 1
@Jacob Vietze whats up
I actually took one of those on a poker run once lol, I got made fun of a lot! But it ran all day flawlessly.
I went from that to a z1 turbo
Ah lets check out power modz been awhile, i miss all the old frankenstein builds. Bog series? i had to take a double take!
More coming!
You also aren't injecting oil you have it mixed so it probably isnt burning as good with factory settings if it isn't that motor mounts
Well I guess this is 9 months ago so hope you got it have a good rip tater chip
Both of them... the one behind you and the dolly?
So did you do the pilot jets? lol!
I think I’m going to try peppermint oil inside my sleds hood, for storage! I hate rodent damage!!!
let me know how it works.
Check oil seal, fuel pickup in tank ,plugged jet,,,,,
he must have some tricks up his sleeve to get that stator out like that lol
lol oh ya bud!
low level riding.. i set the air screw at 1 turn. sometimes 3/4.
You mentioned putting in smaller jet on one of ur last videos going from 30s to 25s
Yes I was thinking it was rich but I now think I had that backwards - and we found some 35's to put in it
@@PowerModzOfficial raise the needles!!
What about carb balancing?
I’m the guy that said it would s a plugged exhaust. YOU STILL HAVE A PLUGGED EXHAUST! It is a TUNED PIPE and it is out of tune because it still has SHIT in it. Find one from a running sled and swap it out. Kids!
You do what I say and I’ll be more careful with the auto fill and spell check.
Ok, i have a scope- I will scope it and check to see if its plugged!
I liked the idea to put the pipe in a fire. What I think would be cooler is to hook a propane weed burner up to one end and have fire out the other end of the pipe. Burn that mouse house down!!!!!
Time for an update yet?
How long do you think it would need to run before we could trust the spark plug color to get an idea of the air fuel ratios in general? I feel like with the rpm at which the bog is occurring would make it pretty tough.
Wouldnt take long actually ill try that too
@@PowerModzOfficial plug chop my man, that will tell u if u need to fatten up the jets, it still sounds a little rich
I have the same sled and it runs perfect. Do u know anywhere to get a pipe for one?
No idea
Haha Lou your great my buddy!!
You too
I'm quite interested in the outcome of this series. What size main jets and pilots are currently installed on the sled?
Hmm, stock, I cant remember but might have it in the carb rebuild video
GUY!!! WHERE IS EPISODE 9 I'm trying to fix my bog and you left a cliff hanger. Did the jets help? Clip height? WTF, HELP!!!!
Coming up!
I’m suprized the skidoo guys aren’t saying the problem is it’s a Polaris
is this a fan cooled??? because i got a older polaris indy,, idk the year ecactly, but i think its a fan cooled and when the weather is hot, it bogs down, like im running on one cylinder,
1990 polaris indy trail
But when the weather is cold... it runs awesome. Can drive as long as i want
Check if your clutch is rusty and causing the bog.
I tried with it off and it bogged
good little sled..
I have a disappointment . Friend went for a good run after it got hot it bog out again , after it cool down away he went . It runs better but need to look for more . My question is . so what cools down to make it run better again .
possibly the coil
@@PowerModzOfficial new coil was installed