For all who are having problems with the flame blowing out when you put the cover on, I worked on this for hours and finally discovered that the two sheet metal vanes that direct air into the burner are the culprits. They essentially cause too much air pressure to the flame when you close the cover. My answer is to bend the vanes the opposite direction so they don't concentrate air to the burner. Mine works consistently now with no issues, with the cover on or off. Also, the air pressure adjuster is approximately level with the housing surface, at least on mine. Cheers!
In 50 yrs. I have only had to buy 2 of these heaters. The first one finally died but the second one has lasted 34 yrs & is still running on diesel. These things are bulletproof.
Thank man, i have a old ready heater 60, it hasn't ran since, around 2005. Ive been telling myself for years to through it away. This morning i watch your video and have it a good inspection and cleaning. She fired right up. Thanks again
01/27/2024 OUTSTANDING video really but wished you had taken the pump apart and showed how to inspect and clean the veins. Again great job. Took mine to a shop that couldn't get it running after 3 weeks. This has given me the reassurance that I can bring it back to life. Thanks
Following your advice mine now runs great (with the cover off) however with the cover back on it only runs for about 12 seconds, any ideas? Great video by the way, I now have confidence I don’t need to dump it.
When I bought my house on December 1st, 1997 I bought an air compressor and a salamander heater. Two of the best investments I've ever made. Great video man!!!
@nedsmith3382 we've been calling the forced air heaters salamanders for over 40yrs here in the midwest. Everyone knows you will heat an area fast if you have one.
You do a very good job here. I have had my1,115 BTU Reddy Heater over 40 years. Not once has it ever failed me. This year I went to fill it up with K1 kerosene and it wouldn't fire up. It came on and ran for about 10 seconds and shut off. The ignitor was working and I cleaned the sprayer as you instructed and blew out all the lines. Still no igniting. I took the cover off the control panel and found a very small crack in a rubber hose going to the sprayer. I replaced it with some clear plastic surgical tube. It fired right up. I'm not sure how the rubbery plastic surgical tube will hold up, but at least I found the problem and will go to the auto shop and get some rubber hose...
Anyone who services oil furnaces will find all of this familiar. I would say that other than a clogged filter, a worn out nozzle would be a top contender for cause of failure. They erode and you can only put so many hours on them before the spray pattern gets bad. If you have the nozzle in hand, don't clean don't nuthin, replace it! They cost less than $10. The first number is rate of flow in gallons per hour at 100 psi. The second number is angle of spray, if it says A or B, that means hollow or solid. If it 's not a Delavan then H and S are obvious. If in doubt, take it with you to a supply house. If the burner has electrodes instead of a plug, then the most likely gap setting is 1/8" away from the face of the nozzle, points 5/16 out from center line, and gap 1/8" to 5/32". Trust me, I did this for a living for a LONG time.
Have you worked off of the becket nozzle selection card and used a smaller nozzle and increasing the pressure to get the cleanest possible burn ? I did this with aero water heaters on installs after confirming with a good combustion meter you rarely ever have to clean them
@@seeveiw I have not personally modded any burner in that manner but that is exactly what the current "clean burn" technology is all about. Most new burners ship with the pump pressure at 140 or there about.
Mine won't light. Igniter glows and I see fuel spraying but it won't light and it shuts down. I put a new flame eye on same thing. Winter coming I need heat.
My Heater is a couple years old still clean on the inside yet it sputters starts puffing smoke and dies eventually. I took it apart and could see nothing wrong.
I love old equipment, and you are right, manufacturers want you to buy a new one instead of maintaining or fixing it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those who like to be independent of our disposable society! I just subscribed.
Dude, thank you... about the comment you made about fuel. It was not empty but just a quarter full. It wouldnt start. Was going to take it apart. But you they get funny with low fuel. Filled it up fired right up. Awesome.. your awesome!
Thank My Friend, my job was going to trash 2 of them not knowing anything about them I took them , and said to myself I bet someone on the Tube got a video on how to fix or service them and you was the Guy thank you so much , you’re video was easy to watch and understand I’m your new friend fixed one and going to fix the other next weekend .
All the older guys used to call them salamanders in the 60s and 70s. Would love to find a non working one to fix and use some times need to work outside when it's cold.
I have had to replace the rotor in the rear pump. Pulled the cover clear off the back and the rotor was in two pieces! They are made out of Carbon and it split in half. They have four little paddle vanes that slide into the rotor. They all came in a kit with vanes and rotor. Installed them and it works lite a champ. Very easy fix!
GREAT VIDEO, I got one of these heaters setting around in the shop for about 4 years now not working was thinking about buying a new one, then I thought I'd try in fix it first. Sure, glad you put this video together. I have learned a lot about my heater and its problems, now I don't have to buy a new one. Thanks
Had a dead Dynaglow torpedo heater. Watched your video, took off the top cover and found the fuel line split. .75cents later, the heater was working! Great video!
Here's one for you, I've got a new Mr Heater 140K BTU model with a control board and thermostat, all that jazz and about 60-70% of the time when it goes to ignite it will just spit out raw diesel and smoke out my shop very quickly. I've tested the ignitor, cleaned the nozzle, changed from #2 diesel to kerosene(crazy expensive but I tried it for troubleshooting purposes), adjusted the fuel pressure countless times and cleaned the air filter. The only semi-reliable fix I've been able to discover is bending the bracket for the ignitor up or down slightly. This heater has at most 15-20 hours on it and its been doing this since the first day I got it. Once I get it to ignite it will run perfectly fine and clean until it runs out of fuel or the thermostat shuts it off. Did I miss something? Heat is an absolute requirement in Alberta winters so this is extremely frustrating and I want to make sure I can count on this thing to be reliable so I don't have to constantly babysit it while I am working on my cars or cutting lumber.
There are several makes and most of the popular ones (around here anyway) are all made by Desa and use alot of the same parts. I noticed alot of them have changed from using the spark plug ignition to the two prong ceramic one, which probably stays cleaner longer. I run mine on diesel, which puts out more BTUs than kerosene (and doesn't stink like kerosene) so I'm happy and it works great!
Boy oh boy You are correct, somehow I ended up with a half a dozen of these things and every one of them were junk, but after fixing my hotsy washer I figured this had to be the same concept and it was and I got every one of them fixed. All are Working perfect now.
Easy to fix . I fixed 2 of them that were used one season and didn't work in the next winter season and were set out by a junkpile . I got both working perfect ...not bad for freebies . Saved me from having to buy one ....yep free 99 is always best .
I got a 250,000BTU big boy on wheels. Digital thermostat, had for nearly 10 years. And never had an issue, didnt even know any of this info, glad i do now tho. Maybe i should open it and clean her up some. Good video.
I called Mr Heater for a new nozzle because my unit was putting out back smoke. They won’t sell it to me because I’m not a certified technician. I ended up installing a Mr Cool mini split a/c heater unit. That fixed my problem and works great.
We always called them salamanders or torpedoes. I love mine, but my garage is an old cinderblock garage with a door that doesn't fit right, leaving a big gap on the top panel as it's an ancient garage that originally had a tracked rolling barn style door on the front of it.
Thank you for this, im cheap but hate being cold and had a serious internal conflict about spending 400 more for a new one as compared to a 100 dollar marketplace find the says that it runs like a champ. I have trust issues with new and used so I asked youtube and you were here to bless me with your expertise.
Two other problems I had with mine: the thermostat contacts were dirty/corroded and not letting current to the circuit board. I sanded them with a tiny doubled-over piece of sandpaper inserted between the contacts. I also discovered the circuit board wasn't working and the igniter wasn't getting power. The large 2.7k ohm wirewound resistor was burned out. I desoldered and removed it, found an old 3k ohm 25w resistor from a scavenged board and soldered it in - it works great! The igniter wire was also broken at the connector, I had to crimp a new connector on the wire.
Nice video and info. Thanks, just had to fix both of mine, had a little water in the tank, drained them, but also cleaned the screen filter inside the tank, and work fine now. Thanks
There is usually a fuel filter in the tank. I don't recall you covered that part. Also the ignitor (sparkplug) is sometimes a element that turns red hot. They go bad but are replaceable.
@@DEInTheGarage honestly I was working on fixing a mini fridge I found on the curb. The heater will be my next project. But with your video I'm extremely optimistic.
Cool. I am working on a Vintage Kerosene heater and it runs fine but I noticed a drip of fuel happening behind the cast Iron. So I thought the cast iron was cracked. This thing is from the 60's. Going to dive into repairing it tomorrow. Cleaning the nozzle. Happy New Year!
I fought one of these one winter. After everything a mechanic can try, the guy at the heating fuel place taught me the method. Nice man. Its about the last place you would go because you had plenty of fuel when it quit heating. Lol. Nowadays, i dont know if a guy like that still would be employed there.
I’m a service tech for jacuzzi and I work on like 100 different models of hot tubs, swim spas and automatic covers. I have only ran into one thing that takes a 10mm at work. I used it to adjust one type of cover 2 times. That’s the only time I ran into something needing a 10mm wrench or socket in 20 years. And a socket didn’t fit. When I use it is on car batteries and I think that’s where everybody lost them. Usually you take your tools outside or with you somewhere to a vehicle for that. Instead of working in the normal place people are used to. I think that’s why people lost that specific socket. My most lost tool is a flat blade screwdriver. I have lots of sets missing just the 3 flat blade screwdrivers I carry all the time. I don’t know what it is that makes me lose them but I have probably lost 50 of them over the years. Never lose Phillips they grind down to nothing or break first
Thank u very much for your video, I figured out with mine the coil was weak New spark plug run for a bit then not. Changed to a 120volt hot surface igniter. Had to leave the old coil under the fan to dampen vibration. Undid the coil off the board Plugged in igniter and works now!
There very easily fixed a look at plastic parts that are extremely bad about cracking and I super glue it and order a replacement parts Simple system on all of them If it has a spark plug clean good or replace it 😊
Called a salamander heater. I have a propane version for clean heat. I bought for autobody repair environment. Repairing these would be a good side hustle.
first, super informative vid bud. i rescued a kraftsman 80k. the back seemed to have a total meltdown. had a little fuel still in it and went to dump it out and wtf?....gasoline? yep, some d.a. put gas in it. i havent dismantled yet to see the damage but you video assured me that its fixable. didnt know these heaters had such few parts to them. have you come across this type of repair before?
We had a larger unit that kept eating plugs, and a coil, we found that adding a switch that allowed you to shut off the ignition after it lit and warmed up stopped that. It didn't affect the operation at all.
Mine runs fine without the top cover off. When I put the cover on it or start to when it's running it all most shuts down when I it gets close to being in place.
Bad or dirty sensor that is supposed to see the flame in the burner chamber would be my starting point. I would replace the sensor first. Taryl fixes all has a video on it.
I bought a multi fuel heater from Tractor supply 15 years ago. I got the extended warranty with it. The next season It wouldn't start. I called about the warranty. They refunded my purchase price and let me keep the heater. It has been running good for the last 14 years
@@johnwyman6126 It is probably more of a balance of air and fuel ratio to get it to perform better at higher elevations - I would imagine there are other nozzle sizes that would be able to be incorporated into the torpedo heater. My old, free junky one without wheels is still operating and we are close to 6,000 ft above sea level.
I’ve had trouble with my ignition module on my Mr heater where it sat through the summer and in fall no ignition, they helped me through a test diagnostics at Mr heater and I had to replace the ignition module mounted under the fan motor, this yr it’s back to the same issue and the ignition module isn’t cheap so looking to modify mine to something simpler for igniting it, more reliable than me heater junk!!
If you can find them, the multi-fuel versions of these heaters are awesome as they can run diesel and kerosene (as well as a few others) and can be ran off of fuel oil if you have that available in your area. 15:43
I have 2 Remmington brand 60,000 btu units. One says its for kerosene and the other says multi fuel. I will say when I run diesel in the kerosene one it is noticeably more smelly than running diesel in the multi fuel one. Might just be a bad nozzle though. Haven't dug in to look.
I upgraded to a 80k electronic ignition torpedo heater that runs off propane. Weather Kerosene or Propane just get a new unit with electronic ignition and a brushless fan motor etc. Older units has their purpose back in the day.
Watched your video ,fixed my heater , Thank You!! It's people like you that make You Tube Great!!
For all who are having problems with the flame blowing out when you put the cover on, I worked on this for hours and finally discovered that the two sheet metal vanes that direct air into the burner are the culprits. They essentially cause too much air pressure to the flame when you close the cover. My answer is to bend the vanes the opposite direction so they don't concentrate air to the burner. Mine works consistently now with no issues, with the cover on or off. Also, the air pressure adjuster is approximately level with the housing surface, at least on mine. Cheers!
In 50 yrs. I have only had to buy 2 of these heaters. The first one finally died but the second one has lasted 34 yrs & is still running on diesel. These things are bulletproof.
Thank man, i have a old ready heater 60, it hasn't ran since, around 2005. Ive been telling myself for years to through it away. This morning i watch your video and have it a good inspection and cleaning. She fired right up. Thanks again
By far the most comprehensive and easiest to follow explanation of these heaters. You’ve saved my patience for today
01/27/2024
OUTSTANDING video really but wished you had taken the pump apart and showed how to inspect and clean the veins. Again great job. Took mine to a shop that couldn't get it running after 3 weeks. This has given me the reassurance that I can bring it back to life. Thanks
Did you get it?
Following your advice mine now runs great (with the cover off) however with the cover back on it only runs for about 12 seconds, any ideas? Great video by the way, I now have confidence I don’t need to dump it.
@@tremaynearcher6653 no sir.
When I bought my house on December 1st, 1997 I bought an air compressor and a salamander heater. Two of the best investments I've ever made. Great video man!!!
Those aren't salamanders.Salamanders are round tube on top after a bigger fuel tank.no electric just fuel wicking.
@nedsmith3382 we've been calling the forced air heaters salamanders for over 40yrs here in the midwest. Everyone knows you will heat an area fast if you have one.
FANTASTIC I WAS READY TO DRIVE OVER IT WITH THE 963 CAT
THAT USUALLY FIXES MOST EVERYTHING
You do a very good job here. I have had my1,115 BTU Reddy Heater over 40 years. Not once has it ever failed me. This year I went to fill it up with K1 kerosene and it wouldn't fire up. It came on and ran for about 10 seconds and shut off. The ignitor was working and I cleaned the sprayer as you instructed and blew out all the lines. Still no igniting. I took the cover off the control panel and found a very small crack in a rubber hose going to the sprayer. I replaced it with some clear plastic surgical tube. It fired right up. I'm not sure how the rubbery plastic surgical tube will hold up, but at least I found the problem and will go to the auto shop and get some rubber hose...
Anyone who services oil furnaces will find all of this familiar. I would say that other than a clogged filter, a worn out nozzle would be a top contender for cause of failure. They erode and you can only put so many hours on them before the spray pattern gets bad. If you have the nozzle in hand, don't clean don't nuthin, replace it! They cost less than $10. The first number is rate of flow in gallons per hour at 100 psi. The second number is angle of spray, if it says A or B, that means hollow or solid. If it 's not a Delavan then H and S are obvious. If in doubt, take it with you to a supply house. If the burner has electrodes instead of a plug, then the most likely gap setting is 1/8" away from the face of the nozzle, points 5/16 out from center line, and gap 1/8" to 5/32". Trust me, I did this for a living for a LONG time.
Have you worked off of the becket nozzle selection card and used a smaller nozzle and increasing the pressure to get the cleanest possible burn ? I did this with aero water heaters on installs after confirming with a good combustion meter you rarely ever have to clean them
@@seeveiw I have not personally modded any burner in that manner but that is exactly what the current "clean burn" technology is all about. Most new burners ship with the pump pressure at 140 or there about.
@@cd2920 I have worked on waste oil burners. That sounds slightly similar, but thanks for the info.
Mine won't light. Igniter glows and I see fuel spraying but it won't light and it shuts down. I put a new flame eye on same thing. Winter coming I need heat.
My Heater is a couple years old still clean on the inside yet it sputters starts puffing smoke and dies eventually. I took it apart and could see nothing wrong.
Excellent video. Dude skips the BS and gets to the solutions. Just the right amount of information and excellent visuals. Thank you!
I love old equipment, and you are right, manufacturers want you to buy a new one instead of maintaining or fixing it!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those who like to be independent of our disposable society! I just subscribed.
Dude, thank you... about the comment you made about fuel. It was not empty but just a quarter full. It wouldnt start. Was going to take it apart. But you they get funny with low fuel. Filled it up fired right up. Awesome.. your awesome!
Thank My Friend, my job was going to trash 2 of them not knowing anything about them I took them , and said to myself I bet someone on the Tube got a video on how to fix or service them and you was the Guy thank you so much , you’re video was easy to watch and understand I’m your new friend fixed one and going to fix the other next weekend .
Get em running?
Found your video by accident. I have this exact model and it doesn't work. Now I am confident I can fix it! stay tuned and thank you!
All the older guys used to call them salamanders in the 60s and 70s. Would love to find a non working one to fix and use some times need to work outside when it's cold.
We used what were called salamanders , which were mostly a container of fuel and a chimney, no electricity
This is the best video I've come across on these. Thank you.
You are THE MAN! Thank you!!!!!! Heater would run for 30 seconds and die. Spark plug was the issue! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
I have had to replace the rotor in the rear pump. Pulled the cover clear off the back and the rotor was in two pieces! They are made out of Carbon and it split in half. They have four little paddle vanes that slide into the rotor. They all came in a kit with vanes and rotor. Installed them and it works lite a champ. Very easy fix!
GREAT VIDEO, I got one of these heaters setting around in the shop for about 4
years now not working was thinking about buying a new one, then I thought I'd try in fix it first.
Sure, glad you put this video together. I have learned a lot about my heater and its problems, now I don't have to buy a new one. Thanks
Had a dead Dynaglow torpedo heater. Watched your video, took off the top cover and found the fuel line split. .75cents later, the heater was working! Great video!
Probably the best how to video I've ever seen!! Great job!!
0:45 I’ve always called them salamanders. That’s what my father called them
A salamander is the heater at a restaurant that they use to keep your food warm or melt cheese on top of a dish etc. as well.
Yep thats what they call them on construction sites.
Absolutely the best video I have seen on maintaining/repairing these heaters! Excellent work! 👍🫡🇺🇸
Protect this man at all costs
Used to have that exact one. Sold it for $75 because I didn't know how to work on it. Thanks for a great video!
Here's one for you,
I've got a new Mr Heater 140K BTU model with a control board and thermostat, all that jazz and about 60-70% of the time when it goes to ignite it will just spit out raw diesel and smoke out my shop very quickly. I've tested the ignitor, cleaned the nozzle, changed from #2 diesel to kerosene(crazy expensive but I tried it for troubleshooting purposes), adjusted the fuel pressure countless times and cleaned the air filter.
The only semi-reliable fix I've been able to discover is bending the bracket for the ignitor up or down slightly. This heater has at most 15-20 hours on it and its been doing this since the first day I got it. Once I get it to ignite it will run perfectly fine and clean until it runs out of fuel or the thermostat shuts it off.
Did I miss something?
Heat is an absolute requirement in Alberta winters so this is extremely frustrating and I want to make sure I can count on this thing to be reliable so I don't have to constantly babysit it while I am working on my cars or cutting lumber.
There are several makes and most of the popular ones (around here anyway) are all made by Desa and use alot of the same parts. I noticed alot of them have changed from using the spark plug ignition to the two prong ceramic one, which probably stays cleaner longer.
I run mine on diesel, which puts out more BTUs than kerosene (and doesn't stink like kerosene) so I'm happy and it works great!
Simple to follow, to the point, informative, helpful video. Thank you.
Boy oh boy You are correct, somehow I ended up with a half a dozen of these things and every one of them were junk, but after fixing my hotsy washer I figured this had to be the same concept and it was and I got every one of them fixed. All are Working perfect now.
bought the same exact heater in 90 and still have it to this day. 24 x 48 shop and it warms it nicely. great video. new sub
Finally someone explained it so I can understand what might be wrong with mine.
I'll get back with you thank you
Awesome video very detailed. Went out and found my nozzle was plugged up cleaned and blew out running great now.
Easy to fix . I fixed 2 of them that were used one season and didn't work in the next winter season and were set out by a junkpile . I got both working perfect ...not bad for freebies . Saved me from having to buy one ....yep free 99 is always best .
I got a 250,000BTU big boy on wheels. Digital thermostat, had for nearly 10 years. And never had an issue, didnt even know any of this info, glad i do now tho. Maybe i should open it and clean her up some. Good video.
Excellent video!! I fixed my Heater. I took your tips and now it is working great!!! Thank you
Hey thanks, I took mine apart and cleaned everything and it's working great! Wouldn't stay on before.
Thanks for the video. A new 50k btu on sale fot $165 at the local hardware store right now.
I called Mr Heater for a new nozzle because my unit was putting out back smoke. They won’t sell it to me because I’m not a certified technician. I ended up installing a Mr Cool mini split a/c heater unit. That fixed my problem and works great.
Are Mr heater and Mr cool the same company
The proper name for those is Nipco. Grandpa used those every winter in the garage. They are very good heaters. Miss those days.
We always called them salamanders or torpedoes. I love mine, but my garage is an old cinderblock garage with a door that doesn't fit right, leaving a big gap on the top panel as it's an ancient garage that originally had a tracked rolling barn style door on the front of it.
Thank you for this, im cheap but hate being cold and had a serious internal conflict about spending 400 more for a new one as compared to a 100 dollar marketplace find the says that it runs like a champ. I have trust issues with new and used so I asked youtube and you were here to bless me with your expertise.
Two other problems I had with mine: the thermostat contacts were dirty/corroded and not letting current to the circuit board. I sanded them with a tiny doubled-over piece of sandpaper inserted between the contacts.
I also discovered the circuit board wasn't working and the igniter wasn't getting power. The large 2.7k ohm wirewound resistor was burned out. I desoldered and removed it, found an old 3k ohm 25w resistor from a scavenged board and soldered it in - it works great! The igniter wire was also broken at the connector, I had to crimp a new connector on the wire.
Thanks for the maintenance tips Douglas.Here in southern Illinois,we call them torpedo heaters...😁👍👍
That is what most folks call them around here as well.
We call them salamanders.
@@DEInTheGarage same here in north west pennsylvania.
Nice video and info. Thanks, just had to fix both of mine, had a little water in the tank, drained them, but also cleaned the screen filter inside the tank, and work fine now. Thanks
There is usually a fuel filter in the tank. I don't recall you covered that part.
Also the ignitor (sparkplug) is sometimes a element that turns red hot. They go bad but are replaceable.
Shoot, I did forget to cover the filters! That 55 didn't have one, but most do. Thanks for the reminder bud!
Yes it has a filter. It is in the tank @@DEInTheGarage
My old Craftsman has a filter in the dip line that goes into the tank. (Fuel line). It's cleanable.
Good job explaining how it works
My fan was all stuck. Oiled and replaced stuck rotors. It was free and easy and fun to fix
I found one of these exact ones in the bowels of my job. I took it home to try to fix it.
Good for you! Did you have any luck?
@@DEInTheGarage honestly I was working on fixing a mini fridge I found on the curb. The heater will be my next project. But with your video I'm extremely optimistic.
Love that! Sounds like we are cut from the same cloth. Good luck with both. If you hit a wall hit me up. Dandeoffroaf@gmail.com
Cool. I am working on a Vintage Kerosene heater and it runs fine but I noticed a drip of fuel happening behind the cast Iron. So I thought the cast iron was cracked. This thing is from the 60's. Going to dive into repairing it tomorrow. Cleaning the nozzle. Happy New Year!
Beat my ass, Brother. U r good and honest. Done them for years. Good job, Kid.
Gave one of these to my buddy a while back. Wish I would’ve kept it now. Thanks for the good info. I’ll be on the lookout for another one
Great Video, very well detailed. Appreciate you taking the time to make it!
I fought one of these one winter.
After everything a mechanic can try, the guy at the heating fuel place taught me the method.
Nice man.
Its about the last place you would go because you had plenty of fuel when it quit heating.
Lol.
Nowadays, i dont know if a guy like that still would be employed there.
I have my grandfather's (who passed away a few months ago) and wanna get it running. Thanks!!
It needed a new coil. Running like a champ!
@@ZackofAllTradesct thanks for the follow up
First time coming across your channel. Brilliant explanation.
Great vid ty I was pretty scared of mine but now I know what's going on and have dropped to a healthy level of fear
Great video!! Mine has a glow plug type deal but otherwise exact same thing and runs great now, thanks!! Used to puff a cloud at startup.
I’m a service tech for jacuzzi and I work on like 100 different models of hot tubs, swim spas and automatic covers. I have only ran into one thing that takes a 10mm at work. I used it to adjust one type of cover 2 times. That’s the only time I ran into something needing a 10mm wrench or socket in 20 years. And a socket didn’t fit. When I use it is on car batteries and I think that’s where everybody lost them. Usually you take your tools outside or with you somewhere to a vehicle for that. Instead of working in the normal place people are used to. I think that’s why people lost that specific socket. My most lost tool is a flat blade screwdriver. I have lots of sets missing just the 3 flat blade screwdrivers I carry all the time. I don’t know what it is that makes me lose them but I have probably lost 50 of them over the years. Never lose Phillips they grind down to nothing or break first
Great Job with the explaination and video. Can't wait to work on my kerosene heater from Sears.
Great info. I might make a forge blower out of one of these.....
Ty for the video. Can’t wait to check on mine that just stopped working. Will start with the fuse and go from there ty
Thank you for this video. Fixed my heater. My hose was cracked and sprayer was dirty.
Hey keep the subject on heaters and don't bring your personal life into it. Now laugh dammit.
Space heater, and that was an awesome Lenox screwdriver 👍👍
Gotta love the old stuff, right?
Great video..why can't they all be like his. Great trouble shooting tutorial. Thanks bro . Keep up the good work
Thanks Now I can fix my old ready heater
I've always called em salamanders my pops would always call it that when we'd be in the barn.
Very very good information .you have the best video yet.and straight to the point.
Good content, I’ve had the same one since 1988!!
Thank u very much for your video,
I figured out with mine the coil was weak
New spark plug run for a bit then not.
Changed to a 120volt hot surface igniter.
Had to leave the old coil under the fan to dampen vibration.
Undid the coil off the board
Plugged in igniter and works now!
Thanks a bunch for this video. In Ohio this is a must
REAL GOOD INFO...IT REALLY IS THAT SIMPLE
Best video I seen today thank you
Great explanation of everything....thanks so much! I think mine can be fixed.
There very easily fixed a look at plastic parts that are extremely bad about cracking and I super glue it and order a replacement parts
Simple system on all of them
If it has a spark plug clean good or replace it 😊
Diesel heater, cant live without one!
Nice work at taking the mystery out of it so that I would tear into my units
You make an incredible video.
You explain it so clearly.
Cheers
We've had ours since 1992 runs like a champ Remington 150000 btu😮😮😅
Called a salamander heater. I have a propane version for clean heat. I bought for autobody repair environment. Repairing these would be a good side hustle.
first, super informative vid bud. i rescued a kraftsman 80k. the back seemed to have a total meltdown. had a little fuel still in it and went to dump it out and wtf?....gasoline? yep, some d.a. put gas in it. i havent dismantled yet to see the damage but you video assured me that its fixable. didnt know these heaters had such few parts to them. have you come across this type of repair before?
Thanks for the video man. I’m planning on taking mine apart to clean it and I just want to know what the insides look like first.
We had a larger unit that kept eating plugs, and a coil, we found that adding a switch that allowed you to shut off the ignition after it lit and warmed up stopped that. It didn't affect the operation at all.
Awesome video. Thanks for being directly to the point.
Great no-nonse lesson. Thanks muchly.
Mine runs fine without the top cover off. When I put the cover on it or start to when it's running it all most shuts down when I it gets close to being in place.
Bad or dirty sensor that is supposed to see the flame in the burner chamber would be my starting point. I would replace the sensor first. Taryl fixes all has a video on it.
That sea doo hull is looking fresh! Thanks for the video
I bought a multi fuel heater from Tractor supply 15 years ago. I got the extended warranty with it. The next season It wouldn't start. I called about the warranty. They refunded my purchase price and let me keep the heater. It has been running good for the last 14 years
Great video! Thanks for breaking it down for me.
Central PA we always called the kerosene ones Salamanders so I call the Propane ones Torpedoes.
I am from northwest Pennsylvania and most everyone around here calls em torpedo heaters. Have a great day.
Altitude will cause it to act weird as well... we are at 5700ft. above sea level. Thanks for the video!!
Can you get the next size smaller nozzle?
@@johnwyman6126 It is probably more of a balance of air and fuel ratio to get it to perform better at higher elevations - I would imagine there are other nozzle sizes that would be able to be incorporated into the torpedo heater. My old, free junky one without wheels is still operating and we are close to 6,000 ft above sea level.
Great video. Very quick to the point. Thank you
Great video and great information on this heater
Gotta Love The 5 Steen On The 6 n 1 multi Tool 😂😂😂 Great info. My Friend 👍
best explained video on how it works and parts give on star rating 1-5 give you a 5 and thks for the video
Great video well explained. Aussie Jeff Moore
Great job my freind! Well done
I’ve had trouble with my ignition module on my Mr heater where it sat through the summer and in fall no ignition, they helped me through a test diagnostics at Mr heater and I had to replace the ignition module mounted under the fan motor, this yr it’s back to the same issue and the ignition module isn’t cheap so looking to modify mine to something simpler for igniting it, more reliable than me heater junk!!
If you can find them, the multi-fuel versions of these heaters are awesome as they can run diesel and kerosene (as well as a few others) and can be ran off of fuel oil if you have that available in your area. 15:43
Multi fuel? Those are all the same fuel. #1, #2, Jet A, Jet A1. Same shit different day...
I have a couple of "keresone" Reddy heaters and I run diesel in them all the time. It's all the same fuel.
I have 2 Remmington brand 60,000 btu units. One says its for kerosene and the other says multi fuel. I will say when I run diesel in the kerosene one it is noticeably more smelly than running diesel in the multi fuel one. Might just be a bad nozzle though. Haven't dug in to look.
@@ggsmith48906mine won’t run on more than a 50/50 blend of kerosene and diesel. Also get less heat. Wonder what’s different with yours.
I upgraded to a 80k electronic ignition torpedo heater that runs off propane. Weather Kerosene or Propane just get a new unit with electronic ignition and a brushless fan motor etc. Older units has their purpose back in the day.
Thanks! I was afraid to figure out what the deal was with one that I own. I just went and bought a second.