I use hydrochloric acid a lot, but always rinse the part in clean water then soak the part (for aprox. the same time it was in the acid) in a washing soda bath. I've found, especially cast iron, that some acid can remain absorbed in the material and it needs to be neutralised. Colin
I use Evaporust and have very good results with it. Plus, it is safe to use, biodegradable, and easy to clean off. The instructions say to re coat your item after cleaning it, and let it air dry to prevent rusting, and it seems to accomplish that. Regards from Canada 🇨🇦
I have had great success with EvapoRust liquid for many years. You can reuse the juice over and over till it just stops working. By keeping it warm, at the lowest stove-top setting, it works much faster. It's best to remove all loose scale/rust before applying EvapoRust. Reviews of it's 'Gell' version are not good and it's quite expensive. For items that can not be submerged, spray well, cover with layers of paper towels, and spray to keep wet. If it dries out, just re-spray and continue. EvapoRust only attacks the rust and will not etch the base metal. Sanding with 80 grit preps for primer/cover coats. You must thoroughly remove all residue before painting. This stuff works really well.......
First, just outstanding content. Much to see here and learn. But caution is advised as some of the chemistry below does require knowledge of what you are doing, and also requires some protective gear such as goggles and chemical gloves. Which is best... depends on what result you want and the items to be cleaned or de-rusted. The Evaporust is formulated to be "use, rinse, dry, and proceed". The HCL really has no instructions on the label since it is used for so many different applications. Only some of them for rust removal. The procedure for use of HCL is much more drawn out and difficult if you want the same results you get from Evaporust. First is a soapy alkaline wash to remove any oils and grease. Rinse. Then add HCL to water to make a 3% to 4% solution. You should also consider heated solution to shorten the time, but ambient temps will still work as it adds a few hours to the job. Then in a home setting, you would remove the item or items, and rinse. Then immediately dip into baking soda solution and scrubbed into the parts to neutralize the acid in the pores of the metal. (this is the step that prevents that orangish color from blooming up). Then a quick clean water rinse. If you want the "gun metal gray" finish with some blueing to it, there is a similar procedure that actually keeps the parts submerged from start to finish, and requires only ONE batch of liquid. However the chemistry of the batch changes as you go through form alkaline soapy to acid, to neutral to very slightly basic, to a dump and full rinse under a hose. In this process, some of the iron removed is actually plated back onto the part as an iron oxide component called magnetite that then can be buffed and polished with oil and made to look like the heat treated black iron parts... Not a very practical process for most home enthusiasts. And as such, most folks short cut the procedure and it does flash back to orange pretty quickly.
I use muriatic acid myself, but you have to watch it so it doesn't continue into the metal, & then you neutralize it. As far as Evapo-Rust goes if you are willing to double the wait time cleaning vinegar works just as well.
question, i want to clean an old crank pulley and damper, i have a gallon of hydrochloric acid and a large metal dish, do i just place the pieces in the dish to soak 24h? or is there something like hot water that activates acid?
I use evaporust all the time for rust removal. If you clean the parts first (degrease, wire wheel) that helps a lot. Yes its slower but not having to worry about acid burns or eating away the metal and its water soluble makes it far superior in my opinion.
Exactly. There are umpteen chelating agents which remove rust but how do they affect the steel. Strong/weak acid/alkali or ph neutral as in mixes like evaporust, and over what time? Strong acids e.g. may work aggressively and quickly but 'eat away' metal, a bolt for instance may lose its threads overnight, surfaces may be etched and metal lost. I've used home made 'Evaporust' for years, a simple solution, EDTA Na4 and citric acid make a ph neutral solution at 5% of the cost of evaporust or similar. Cheap and cheerful safe and easy especially if you need a big bath of the stuff. A couple of bags of cheap bulk powder and water.
I had just asked the question in my head as to what would happen if you used acid and then evapo-rust. So glad it occurred to you too. I've always disliked that black tint left by evapo-rust. This looks like a happy medium.
How? The unblackend area is only acid. It was submerged in EvapoRust after, aye, but it did nothing. Also; just scrub the part with a degreaser afterward, like GreazeOff and blow dry with a compressor (and desiccant snake)
My first video using citric acid sounds like I'm trying to sell you a bottle for 29.99. I was stunned. Evaporust is magic but citric acid is cheap and easy. I wish I hadn't been this old before I found out. Now I tell everyone
Weird test as you if you had just coated the section with the hydrochloric with some wd40 or any oil, it would not have flash rusted. It is literally stripped to as bare metal as you can get - the evaporust is a converter. what i like to do is clean deep rust with hydochloric - neutralize it and then throw some phosphoric on it because that will clean up the rest and leave a coated part that will not rust.
great video - been ugin evapo rust for quite some time now and I'm super happy with the results - I combine it with an ultrasonic cleaner using only water for a good finish, though you can use some other chemicals too! tanks for the video!!
HCL eats metal, just like vinegar, grinding, sanding etc. Evapo-rust does not. Depending on what you are de-rusting would depend on what you use. Vinegar works too but it also removes metal. Large heavy metal pieces use HCL, smaller, machines or delicate parts use evapo-rust.
Not to mention the fact that HCL outputs toxic vapors and will rust everything that's in the surroundings. And if you clean off the part without neutralizing the acid on the surface of the part it will start rusting again and give you an ugly rust tint
8:58 That's misleading. That's surface rust because you left that part in the presence of water and oxygen (either blow dry or keep submerged. The presence of both allows for the chemical reaction that is rust). But yeah, in general, go with EvapoRust. It's a chealator instead of an acid, so unless you know what you're doing with acids, it's safer
Not sure whether the trim on my stove is CHROME or STAINLESS... and want to remove rust. Have some HCL on hand but a bit fearful to use it. Regrettably cannot remove the parts (welded) so need to paint on the chemicals, not sure how long to leave them on. But this video was helpful gives me a clue on what to expect. Thanks.
Hydrochloric acid is one of strongest acid in the world, it’s definitely more powerful than any commercial rust removers in the market, however, it is incredibly dangerous to work with and it has to be neutralised by a strong base like sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate.
I hear Evaporust is very safe on metals but leaves black residue, did you experience any pitting with Hydrochloric acid? Judging by the video, the best method would be to pre-clean the rust with Hydrochloric acid then followed by Evaporust afterwards? Thanks for any advice.
Yes, sir, and I'll explain: EvapoRust is used and rinsed with water, but the acid (any acid) must be neutralized with water and bicarbonate and then rinsed again with plenty of water. If you do not follow this process, even if you paint the metal, it will oxidize again due to the effect of the acid.
@@Marcelo-56 Not so. Use Phosphoric AFTER the muratic, hydro etc. Wash with water, baking soda, dry well then Ospho or whatever. No rust, seals out with the Ospho. Used if for decades.
definitely better from the stand[oint of no acid etching of the metal. Yes more expensive but way better if you seek finishing the piece. One wants to remove the rust without attacking the steel.
Or water down and it's fine down sink or in yard. Alot of fertilizer has Phoshphoric acid in them. We have it in us. Just don't put it in us. That's bad.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 You must like killing vegetation. Take the time to know your acids before giving advice. Frankly don't provide any organic chemistry advice.
All acids can be re-used until they exhaust enough ions (oxidize) to to reduce their effectiveness. You can dump HCl down drains that have a sewage treatment system. Please do not dump anything down non treated systems. Evapo Rust is citric acid with a splash of emulsifiers.
@@fabrizionicolini280 didn't work for me I spent about $130 on that stuff and it didn't do anything and the tank really wasn't that bad at the beginning after rinsing it out then I tried white vinegar that helped but it flash rusted so fast I put a little Marvel Mystery Oil into it and that didn't help then I basically cleaned it out and started again with the white vinegar got it pretty clean put some diesel fuel in it switched it all around to wash it out and then left the residue of the diesel in there because it would keep things oiled and moist because I didn't have time to get back to completing the tank and I checked it the other day and thinking it's a seal tank it would be still moist and clean with the coating of diesel but it rusted badly. Acid is next then coating the inside with red kote or caswell tank sealer
If using muratic it woks well but you gotta watch it. Not dump and come back in 4 hours. Either watch it or water it down so it's no so harsh. After wash off with baking soda and water, dry then use Ospho on it and your set. Will not rust or anything. Ospho is phosphoric acid. Made for killing rust or fir protection of bare metal.
Its (HCl) chemical formula... AKA Muriatic acid... Same thing. Look in your pool supply area of the store or also in the home and garden (sidewalk cleaner)
@@erikguzik8204 I know HCl is the chemical formula for hydrochloric acid, but I've never seen ClH (which would be chemically wrong) . That's why I was surprised and curious about where this nomenclature is used.
Evapo-rust isn't all that great, I put a some in my 5 hp. gas tank for 24 hours to take care of the light rust and it did nothing to rust. I'm waiting on the local Harbor Freight to get in Iron Armor Rust Reformer.
That could be because of oily residue, get some acetone and a bunch of medium to small bolts and nuts, slosh it around in there and rinse the tank out, when all the oil residue is out, evaporust will do the rest. Fuel tanks always require extra effort, its never as simple as just throwing in some evaporust and magically it will clean the rust. I know evaporust works good, but you have to prep the surface in order for it to do its job.
All fine and dandy but I'm trying to do my roof in my horse trailer. Do I need a gel rust remover or can I spray on evaporust? Will it have the same effect as soaking? I find thousands of videos on things that fit into containers but nothing for larger surfaces
For the top you could use some old towels soaked in evaporust. But to be honest, I think a wirewheel or sanding is cheaper. Or just clean it and paint with rustoleum.
elbow grease - I did an old camper top once.... used a large revolving polishing wheel with the most abrasive pads I could find with white vinegar from Walmart - I don't envy you, but it can be done eventually wound up going through lots of sandpaper.... good luck
Wire wheel it as clean as possible. Wax and grease remover. Then rely on industrial coatings. Products like rustoleum are consumer grade versions that are designed specifically for these situations... and it works quite well.
Any surface that is shadowed from the anode will remain unaffected. Yes a well designed anode cage can be created... but seldom if ever is. Neither of the methods he demonstrated are dangerous. Certainly no more dangerous than mixing electricity with water.
There is nothing dangerous about using acids for rust removal. IT is incredibly easy to use and be safe with - not sure why there is such a fear of it these days.
I couldn't tell if you were sticking your bare hands in the acid or not you moved between the parts so quickly! I was waiting for your skin to peal off!
At $27.00 a gallon for Evaporust vs $9.98 a gallon for muriatic acid, it might be a cost factor.
I use hydrochloric acid a lot, but always rinse the part in clean water then soak the part (for aprox. the same time it was in the acid) in a washing soda bath. I've found, especially cast iron, that some acid can remain absorbed in the material and it needs to be neutralised.
Colin
Whats the best method to neutralize Hydrochloric acid after de-rusting, just baking soda warm water mix or is there something else better?
I've only used a strong washing soda bath which works for me so haven't tried anything else.
I use Evaporust and have very good results with it. Plus, it is safe to use, biodegradable, and easy to clean off. The instructions say to re coat your item after cleaning it, and let it air dry to prevent rusting, and it seems to accomplish that. Regards from Canada 🇨🇦
I have had great success with EvapoRust liquid for many years.
You can reuse the juice over and over till it just stops working.
By keeping it warm, at the lowest stove-top setting, it works much faster.
It's best to remove all loose scale/rust before applying EvapoRust.
Reviews of it's 'Gell' version are not good and it's quite expensive.
For items that can not be submerged, spray well, cover with layers of paper towels, and spray to keep wet. If it dries out, just re-spray and continue.
EvapoRust only attacks the rust and will not etch the base metal. Sanding with 80 grit preps for primer/cover coats.
You must thoroughly remove all residue before painting.
This stuff works really well.......
Hydrochloric acid does a better job removing the rust, so use it first, brush it, and then soak it in Evaporust to prevent the flash rust.
You should just move it to soap water after you are done to kill of the chlorides
First, just outstanding content. Much to see here and learn. But caution is advised as some of the chemistry below does require knowledge of what you are doing, and also requires some protective gear such as goggles and chemical gloves.
Which is best... depends on what result you want and the items to be cleaned or de-rusted. The Evaporust is formulated to be "use, rinse, dry, and proceed". The HCL really has no instructions on the label since it is used for so many different applications. Only some of them for rust removal.
The procedure for use of HCL is much more drawn out and difficult if you want the same results you get from Evaporust. First is a soapy alkaline wash to remove any oils and grease. Rinse. Then add HCL to water to make a 3% to 4% solution. You should also consider heated solution to shorten the time, but ambient temps will still work as it adds a few hours to the job. Then in a home setting, you would remove the item or items, and rinse. Then immediately dip into baking soda solution and scrubbed into the parts to neutralize the acid in the pores of the metal. (this is the step that prevents that orangish color from blooming up). Then a quick clean water rinse.
If you want the "gun metal gray" finish with some blueing to it, there is a similar procedure that actually keeps the parts submerged from start to finish, and requires only ONE batch of liquid. However the chemistry of the batch changes as you go through form alkaline soapy to acid, to neutral to very slightly basic, to a dump and full rinse under a hose. In this process, some of the iron removed is actually plated back onto the part as an iron oxide component called magnetite that then can be buffed and polished with oil and made to look like the heat treated black iron parts... Not a very practical process for most home enthusiasts. And as such, most folks short cut the procedure and it does flash back to orange pretty quickly.
commercial acid pickling solutions often have some phosphoric acid to prevent flash rusting, but it too leaves a dark film on the metal.
I use muriatic acid myself, but you have to watch it so it doesn't continue into the metal, & then you neutralize it. As far as Evapo-Rust goes if you are willing to double the wait time cleaning vinegar works just as well.
question, i want to clean an old crank pulley and damper, i have a gallon of hydrochloric acid and a large metal dish, do i just place the pieces in the dish to soak 24h? or is there something like hot water that activates acid?
I use evaporust all the time for rust removal. If you clean the parts first (degrease, wire wheel) that helps a lot. Yes its slower but not having to worry about acid burns or eating away the metal and its water soluble makes it far superior in my opinion.
Exactly. There are umpteen chelating agents which remove rust but how do they affect the steel. Strong/weak acid/alkali or ph neutral as in mixes like evaporust, and over what time?
Strong acids e.g. may work aggressively and quickly but 'eat away' metal, a bolt for instance may lose its threads overnight, surfaces may be etched and metal lost.
I've used home made 'Evaporust' for years, a simple solution, EDTA Na4 and citric acid make a ph neutral solution at 5% of the cost of evaporust or similar. Cheap and cheerful safe and easy especially if you need a big bath of the stuff. A couple of bags of cheap bulk powder and water.
I had just asked the question in my head as to what would happen if you used acid and then evapo-rust. So glad it occurred to you too. I've always disliked that black tint left by evapo-rust. This looks like a happy medium.
How? The unblackend area is only acid. It was submerged in EvapoRust after, aye, but it did nothing.
Also; just scrub the part with a degreaser afterward, like GreazeOff and blow dry with a compressor (and desiccant snake)
The black residue can be wiped right off. It's also a sign that the job is done.
Citric acid is the value winner in rust removal.
My first video using citric acid sounds like I'm trying to sell you a bottle for 29.99. I was stunned. Evaporust is magic but citric acid is cheap and easy. I wish I hadn't been this old before I found out. Now I tell everyone
I'm putting my trust in Evaporust over the acid, just for safety reasons alone
Working with stronger acids is not an issue and is nothing to be worried about it.
Weird test as you if you had just coated the section with the hydrochloric with some wd40 or any oil, it would not have flash rusted. It is literally stripped to as bare metal as you can get - the evaporust is a converter. what i like to do is clean deep rust with hydochloric - neutralize it and then throw some phosphoric on it because that will clean up the rest and leave a coated part that will not rust.
Evaporust is not a converter. It is a chelating agent and removes oxides but leaves the metal untouched.
How do you neutralise hydrochloric acid?
great video - been ugin evapo rust for quite some time now and I'm super happy with the results - I combine it with an ultrasonic cleaner using only water for a good finish, though you can use some other chemicals too! tanks for the video!!
HCL eats metal, just like vinegar, grinding, sanding etc. Evapo-rust does not. Depending on what you are de-rusting would depend on what you use. Vinegar works too but it also removes metal. Large heavy metal pieces use HCL, smaller, machines or delicate parts use evapo-rust.
Not to mention the fact that HCL outputs toxic vapors and will rust everything that's in the surroundings. And if you clean off the part without neutralizing the acid on the surface of the part it will start rusting again and give you an ugly rust tint
Just media blast it and you're done and ready to prime and paint... Works for me...
Hard to media blast some parts.
Dude!! Safety!! I'm not sure how strong your HCl is, but please wear gloves!! Also goggles.
Thanks for sharing your experiment with us 👍
8:58 That's misleading. That's surface rust because you left that part in the presence of water and oxygen (either blow dry or keep submerged. The presence of both allows for the chemical reaction that is rust).
But yeah, in general, go with EvapoRust. It's a chealator instead of an acid, so unless you know what you're doing with acids, it's safer
Evaporust is way better and non toxic also it doesn't flash over rust afterwards
Not sure whether the trim on my stove is CHROME or STAINLESS... and want to remove rust. Have some HCL on hand but a bit fearful to use it. Regrettably cannot remove the parts (welded) so need to paint on the chemicals, not sure how long to leave them on. But this video was helpful gives me a clue on what to expect. Thanks.
@AJ Restorations, been stressed out lately and your videos videos help me sleep
Mixture of Hydrochloric Acid and Evaporust is much better... Is that pure steel or tin???
Its carbon steel.
I have seen this stuff in Aus recently and tempted to try it. Great comparison.
I love Evapo Rust, its kinda expensive but in my eyes its worth it.
Look around and find bulk citric acid (ebay, Amazon, etc). I buy about 10lbs or 4.5kg at a time. Mix up your own solutions as needed.
I say that it's up to you whichever works best for your needs. More important is the cost of each of the products in your town
Hydrochloric acid is one of strongest acid in the world, it’s definitely more powerful than any commercial rust removers in the market, however, it is incredibly dangerous to work with and it has to be neutralised by a strong base like sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate.
I did 100% HCL. Worked great but bad acid burns on my hands. Moderate oxidisation though.
That nail scratch, with earphones in. Gave me the creeps
It was quite eerie!
shouldn't things soaked in an acid solution, need to also be soaked in a basic solution to neutralize the acid? or will that also create worse rust?
I'll take. What is water? For one billion dollars Alex.
@@ShainAndrews isn't water perfectly in between ?_?
Ottimo lavoro fratello, complimenti 👍👍👍👍👍
Evaporust is by far the winner because it doesnt eat the base metal. Though it is expensive.
Expensive but in my eyes worth it.
@@AJRestoration i have a 30L ultrasonic tank and at 30$ a litre i would be paying 900$
buddy its 130$ for 5 gallons aka like 150 for your tank not 900 @@meocats
@@cdrom1070 if you live in the USA its that price, in europe its more
I hear Evaporust is very safe on metals but leaves black residue, did you experience any pitting with Hydrochloric acid? Judging by the video, the best method would be to pre-clean the rust with Hydrochloric acid then followed by Evaporust afterwards? Thanks for any advice.
I still don't understand - is Evapo-Rust better than hydrochloric acid for rust removal?
Yes, sir, and I'll explain: EvapoRust is used and rinsed with water, but the acid (any acid) must be neutralized with water and bicarbonate and then rinsed again with plenty of water. If you do not follow this process, even if you paint the metal, it will oxidize again due to the effect of the acid.
@@Marcelo-56 Not so. Use Phosphoric AFTER the muratic, hydro etc. Wash with water, baking soda, dry well then Ospho or whatever. No rust, seals out with the Ospho. Used if for decades.
Evaporust is definitely safer.
Hydrochloric Acid is also known as Spirits Of Salt.
That is correct!
Ok,deja vu,this is first part from a video posted one month ago...anyway,good job !!! 👍👍👍
definitely better from the stand[oint of no acid etching of the metal. Yes more expensive but way better if you seek finishing the piece. One wants to remove the rust without attacking the steel.
What percentage of hydrochloric acid did u mix with the evaporust?
Vinegar is the best non-toxic acid for cleaning metal.
Define non-toxic.
@@ShainAndrews Something that is not toxic!
@@chrysoval8681 Everything is toxic.
@@ShainAndrews Vinegar is acidic but not toxic. Can you drink Evapo-Rust? I can drink vinegar!
@@chrysoval8681 You can only drink a certain % vinegar - You can't drink an industrial high % vinegar as that would be toxic.
Always use soap or any other base on parts you cleaned with Acid. You need to neutralise it.
HCl do better if percentage Mol percentage higher
Did I miss how long you let these items soak? Thats important .
Looks to me like under 2.5 minutes. Probably less than 2 minutes
Interesting comparison. Evaporust can be reused, what about the acid (how do you manage the acid after use)?
You can re-use acid as well.
@@Dino_Buk Thank you very much :)
Or water down and it's fine down sink or in yard. Alot of fertilizer has Phoshphoric acid in them. We have it in us. Just don't put it in us. That's bad.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 You must like killing vegetation. Take the time to know your acids before giving advice. Frankly don't provide any organic chemistry advice.
All acids can be re-used until they exhaust enough ions (oxidize) to to reduce their effectiveness. You can dump HCl down drains that have a sewage treatment system. Please do not dump anything down non treated systems. Evapo Rust is citric acid with a splash of emulsifiers.
price hypocloridric acid and price evaporust 4 one liter, please
1 gallon muratic acid $12.00 1 gallon evaporust $34.00-$39.00
@@seanfaulk8641 first!
@@fabrizionicolini280 didn't work for me I spent about $130 on that stuff and it didn't do anything and the tank really wasn't that bad at the beginning after rinsing it out then I tried white vinegar that helped but it flash rusted so fast I put a little Marvel Mystery Oil into it and that didn't help then I basically cleaned it out and started again with the white vinegar got it pretty clean put some diesel fuel in it switched it all around to wash it out and then left the residue of the diesel in there because it would keep things oiled and moist because I didn't have time to get back to completing the tank and I checked it the other day and thinking it's a seal tank it would be still moist and clean with the coating of diesel but it rusted badly.
Acid is next then coating the inside with red kote or caswell tank sealer
@@seanfaulk8641 🤩
Hey bro I'm in the swimming pool industry I get acid by the case with 4 gallons per case at $50 a case
if you don't mind it eating your metal use acid it has it's place and uses
I thought the same thing.
If using muratic it woks well but you gotta watch it. Not dump and come back in 4 hours. Either watch it or water it down so it's no so harsh. After wash off with baking soda and water, dry then use Ospho on it and your set. Will not rust or anything. Ospho is phosphoric acid. Made for killing rust or fir protection of bare metal.
I did this with some bolts from an old farm winch.
Noticed a garlic like smell, internet say its Arsine, hope I dont die😢
Me too, still alive
@@Larry-d3i Same, almost died from fear but probably was some sulfur compound 😮💨
I prefer acid cuz when you are done you can drink it and listen to pink floyd
oh wait
Now I'm curious. Where in the world is hydrochloric acid "ClH"?
Its (HCl) chemical formula... AKA Muriatic acid... Same thing. Look in your pool supply area of the store or also in the home and garden (sidewalk cleaner)
@@erikguzik8204 I know HCl is the chemical formula for hydrochloric acid, but I've never seen ClH (which would be chemically wrong) . That's why I was surprised and curious about where this nomenclature is used.
Acid is a lot cheaper
Wow! I'll use hydrochloric acid then use evaporust.
If you used hydrochloric acid straight it would work really fast. If you water it down your basically using vinegar.
LOL... nope. People like you are why acids are so dangerous.
Vinegar is acetic acid
Evapo-rust isn't all that great, I put a some in my 5 hp. gas tank for 24 hours to take care of the light rust and it did nothing to rust. I'm waiting on the local Harbor Freight to get in Iron Armor Rust Reformer.
That could be because of oily residue, get some acetone and a bunch of medium to small bolts and nuts, slosh it around in there and rinse the tank out, when all the oil residue is out, evaporust will do the rest. Fuel tanks always require extra effort, its never as simple as just throwing in some evaporust and magically it will clean the rust.
I know evaporust works good, but you have to prep the surface in order for it to do its job.
All fine and dandy but I'm trying to do my roof in my horse trailer. Do I need a gel rust remover or can I spray on evaporust? Will it have the same effect as soaking? I find thousands of videos on things that fit into containers but nothing for larger surfaces
For the top you could use some old towels soaked in evaporust. But to be honest, I think a wirewheel or sanding is cheaper. Or just clean it and paint with rustoleum.
elbow grease - I did an old camper top once.... used a large revolving polishing wheel with the most abrasive pads I could find with white vinegar from Walmart - I don't envy you, but it can be done
eventually wound up going through lots of sandpaper.... good luck
I have seen evaporust gel on TH-cam lately
Wire wheel it as clean as possible. Wax and grease remover. Then rely on industrial coatings. Products like rustoleum are consumer grade versions that are designed specifically for these situations... and it works quite well.
prefer less dangerous methods for removing rust like electrolysis
It does not remove the rust as well as products like Evapo-Rust or WD-40 Rust Remover Soak.
Any surface that is shadowed from the anode will remain unaffected. Yes a well designed anode cage can be created... but seldom if ever is. Neither of the methods he demonstrated are dangerous. Certainly no more dangerous than mixing electricity with water.
There is nothing dangerous about using acids for rust removal. IT is incredibly easy to use and be safe with - not sure why there is such a fear of it these days.
A tiny soap 🧼🧼🧼🧼
Images you can smell
I couldn't tell if you were sticking your bare hands in the acid or not you moved between the parts so quickly! I was waiting for your skin to peal off!
It is highly diluted. I have touched 35% HCl and nothing happened
Hcl il moooooore cheapest..
What do you use to neutralise the acid with?
baking powder and water is the usual go to.