the most knowledgable and least pretentious DIY channel on youtube. Ive been in construction for years and I still watch these just because steve seems like such a solid dude.
Are you gonna follow up with a waterproofing video? Is that red guard crack suppressant stuff still around? My first construction job my boss swore by that stuff. I remember it cost a lot.
Remember Cement Board version 1.0?? Wonder board? Felt like sack-crete between two layers of mesh tape and was full of voids. I remember cutting it with a circular saw getting dusted. I’m surprised I’m still alive with some of the shit I used to do
Another bathroom installer says he does not use cement board ( which adds weight and cost) because if the waterproof membrane fails ( Kerdi or liquid ) then the whole system is compromised and failed. What is your view about this?
That’s a ridiculous view and statement….if the argument was it takes longer to get to tile, okay. But liquid or sheet membranes don’t fail unless you do them wrong
Yes, but ultimately the liquid waterproofing I used wasn’t cheap and ended up costing the same as using go board. There’s cheaper liquid waterproofing products that would make it less 👍
Do not use paper faced drywall in wet areas like showers. You can use paper face on the other tile walls. They are mold resistant not mold proof. For an extra 50 cents per SF you can use paperLESS (fiberglass face) board for added mold resistance but if you want to paint you have to skim coat the surface. USG/National Gypsum also have fiberglass face gypsum tile backer board that costs about the same as cement board, is easier to cut and is lighter. I have seen in some spec books that larger format tile requires cement board but I’m not sure if that’s an actual TCA requirement or Gensler Architects being difficult.
@@Mikepopo99 I can’t say for sure. It may be over-kill to do both. It may come down to how heavy the tile is, the stud spacing, and how much peace of mind you want.
Yet another backer board video that completely fails to mention anything about the importance of plumb, level and squared wall studs and how to make correct. If the studs ain't right the backer board won't be right and then the tiles won't be right. Not covering this aspect of this job is either beacuse you don't know or you don't care. Either way you're setting people up to fail at a fairly expensive and exhausting project. Oh yes, also... using you sheetrock square in that fashion is for experienced users only, beginners should lay it flat on the floor and avoid the bloodletting.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
the most knowledgable and least pretentious DIY channel on youtube. Ive been in construction for years and I still watch these just because steve seems like such a solid dude.
GREAT work and GREAT advice!
I got a super great deal on 1/4” cement board. Can I double stack it with 2 layers for shower wall installation? Thanks
Great video to watch on a rainy Saturday!
Are you gonna follow up with a waterproofing video? Is that red guard crack suppressant stuff still around? My first construction job my boss swore by that stuff. I remember it cost a lot.
Yep 👍 probably a live stream on it first
Remember Cement Board version 1.0?? Wonder board? Felt like sack-crete between two layers of mesh tape and was full of voids. I remember cutting it with a circular saw getting dusted. I’m surprised I’m still alive with some of the shit I used to do
😆 for sure, I used to use a circular saw for that and hardibacker all the time. No mask of course… we’ll pay for it some day 😆
Hi
Can I use Schluter membrane on top of the cement board for water proofing?
Thanks
What kind of product we’re you using to patch up the niche at the end ?
You can use a recip saw to cut cement board, by using a diamond enhanced blade, like the one Milwaukee makes for cutting cast iron.
Good tip. I actually haven’t tried those for cement board yet 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher They are helpful when you have to do stop cuts or plunge cuts.
Wow, that stuff is way easier than hardi-backer.
Another bathroom installer says he does not use cement board ( which adds weight and cost) because if the waterproof membrane fails ( Kerdi or liquid ) then the whole system is compromised and failed.
What is your view about this?
That’s a ridiculous view and statement….if the argument was it takes longer to get to tile, okay. But liquid or sheet membranes don’t fail unless you do them wrong
So the main reason for this method was costs?
Yes, but ultimately the liquid waterproofing I used wasn’t cheap and ended up costing the same as using go board. There’s cheaper liquid waterproofing products that would make it less 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher IS WEDI just impossible to find anymore?
If you're going to use a waterproofing membrane anyways couldn't you just use drywall?
Cement board is stronger. If you use drywall, be sure to use the moisture rated type, such as green board.
Do not use paper faced drywall in wet areas like showers. You can use paper face on the other tile walls. They are mold resistant not mold proof. For an extra 50 cents per SF you can use paperLESS (fiberglass face) board for added mold resistance but if you want to paint you have to skim coat the surface. USG/National Gypsum also have fiberglass face gypsum tile backer board that costs about the same as cement board, is easier to cut and is lighter. I have seen in some spec books that larger format tile requires cement board but I’m not sure if that’s an actual TCA requirement or Gensler Architects being difficult.
@@kevinhornbuckle so even if you use kerdi or aquaguard you'd still need a green board?
@@Mikepopo99 I can’t say for sure. It may be over-kill to do both. It may come down to how heavy the tile is, the stud spacing, and how much peace of mind you want.
Glossed over the whole waterproofing requirements. The reason I watched the video. Waste of my time
Did you misread the title 😆 th-cam.com/video/ohvOPYfeg_Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fHD0ebZmqFe0c9dw
Yet another backer board video that completely fails to mention anything about the importance of plumb, level and squared wall studs and how to make correct. If the studs ain't right the backer board won't be right and then the tiles won't be right. Not covering this aspect of this job is either beacuse you don't know or you don't care. Either way you're setting people up to fail at a fairly expensive and exhausting project. Oh yes, also... using you sheetrock square in that fashion is for experienced users only, beginners should lay it flat on the floor and avoid the bloodletting.