How to Install Cement board, all the steps needed form cutting and installing to waterproofing.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
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How to Install Cement board, all the steps you need to know, form cutting and installing to waterproofing. When installing a cement backer board it is important to use the correct kind of screw. Drywall screws are not to be used to install the cement board, due to the composition of the backer board an non coated screw will deteriorate over time and compromise the integrity of the tile installation. A screw that has been coated or galvanized must be used. A screw should be placed every 8", there is going to be a lot of weight when the tile is installed so an adequate number of fasteners should be used. To cut the board to the correct size a simple utility knife is all that is needed. Score the board with the blade of the knife a few times, and then bend the board back until it snaps, complete the cut by running the knife along the cut from the opposite side. A simple key hole saw can be used to make holes for shower valves and escutcheons. The corners and joints will be reinforced with a fiberglass alkali resistant mesh tape and then filled with thinset. Do not use drywall mesh tape. Once the thinset is dry, the walls should be waterproofed with two coats of a liquid applied waterproofing membrane. I will generally reinforce corners of the cement board with fiberglass fabric, then apply two coats of the waterproofing. It is very important to not skip any steps and to be sure that the board, be it Durock, Wonderboard, HardieBaker, or any other type of CBU. Cement board is water safe, but it is not waterproof, so in my opinion the best way to prevent moisture penetration into the wall cavity, is to waterproof the entire surface with a liquid applied waterproofing membrane, in this video Mapei Aquadefense is used for all waterproofing. A Vapor barrier can be used be hind the board in place of the liquid applied waterproofing, however I believe that the membrane directly under the tile gives much superior protection. All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
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A man who takes great pride and knows what he is doing.i have been in constuction over 40 years and I know bullshit.Thx for info
I trust Sal more than most videos out there ! Guy is total professional and doesn’t cut any corners
It always brings a smile to my face when I watch someone who truly knows their trade and works with cleanliness and confidence. It’s like watching a well done surgery.
After 34 years i may have picked up a few things. 😜
I do about the same, but mark and cut the back. And because they crown, I sometimes install them backwards and triple coat with HydroBan. I install with 2" ring shank galvanized nails. So I don't even need to bring power tools. Ceilings I do screw. This is great tutorial for the Do-It-Yourselfer.
Sal, you should put ads on this. Vids like these deserve a royalty.
This was amazing! Thank you so much, I’m all alone with my husband gone with the Army and I had a huge shower leak so now I’m learning to Reno a bathroom on my own, you have no idea how much this stuff is appreciated from a professional to a DIYer. Keep doing what you’re doing!
Glad it was helpful.
He's one of those who cannot face enemy face to face & one by one.
@@squirtmph Says a keyboard warrior.
@@paulmaxwell8851
Proudly made in USA 😜
With bullet proof gerar, facing enemy in sandals 🩴
I do all the tile work at my home remodeling job and we use the same tile every job and I’m no professional but I learned a lot and I learned that I’ve been doing it wrong every time. I was taught completely differently and we never water proofed it at all like this. We just throw the backer board up and tile it. I’m thankful
You are not alone, get some training, most of it is free.
He is not just a pro..he is a master at this. Love watching someone so skilled.
😊👍
Then you should watch me drink beer
Excellent refresher for me. I used to help my Dad when he was still alive. Now, I’m in the process of redoing my shower. Your video reminded me of a couple things I forgot, like the corners & why we do a vapor barrier before or after, but not both. Thank you very much.
Couple of added pointers from an amateur:
1) when applying the liquid waterproofing, Remove the tape as soon as the first coat has been applied and re-tape before putting on the second coat.
2) I found Heavy-Duty ‘Big Wipes’ (the contractor ones) will remove the waterproofing if you’re lucky enough to catch the drops etc before they dry.
3) It only takes an hour for the Aqua-Defense to dry so you can do your coats pretty quickly.
I wasn’t able to put the cement board over the tub flange (110yr old houses, yay)…. It’s the only time I’ve *ever* not followed Sal’s instructions to the letter but am ok wit the result. Fingers crossed there’s no leak.
I did my 40 year old shower a few years ago. I removed the 4x4 tiles and sheetrock behind it. It Never had loose tiles or water damage. The tiles were attached with mastic and held up all those years..how, I don't know. I was told the mastic served as the water proofing back then. Thank you so much teaching the proper way to do a shower.
Thankyou sal for passing on your skills to the younger generation, without that knowledge trades will suffer in latter years, thankyou for teaching us.
Thanks, glad it helped
Thanks for the concise information and demonstration. No B.S., just professional techniques in easy to understand explanations.
Very helpful with all the pointers. Customer must be happy with the workmanship of this job.
Thank you. Working on my first shower tiling project DIY and was very nervous. Much more confident now.
😊👍
I don't know why some people gave him thumbs down ?!?!....he is even working by himself.... tremendous tutorial!!!!!😳🤪
The best way to get youtubes algorithm to stop suggesting the same content over and over is to give videos a thumbs down. Its not that I dislike videos, but its one of the only ways to tell this site I'd like fresh content.
@@thechurchofdiscountdan7436 I thumb you up, but will thumb you down later, if gonna keep seeing this same comment again 😅
What a PRO...unbelievable work ethic...I leaned from you way more that any other video I have seen...now could you teach my wife how to do this.
I can't even teach my wife.😂
Funny guy!
I like how thorough he is with his work. Very informative with his process.
Thank you Mr. DiBlasi for sharing your knowlwedge.
My pleasure
its changed a bit since we were hawking mud to metal lathe !!!, I still love the "old way" but that's a solid, professional, board job my man.
Definitely don’t see that as much as you used to! Still been floating a lot of floors but definitely not walls. Idk if any of the guys know how to do it anymore.
Cheers to your guys who used to do it that way, freakin love those old 1x1 floors etc.
Twenty years ago we never used any water proofer over dura rock. Seemed to work fine, never had any water problems. I have torn out a couple i did back then just because they were out of style. No issues. Sure these new systems are better but seems like more things to screw up. Am using Schluter now and once you have it figured out its pretty easy. It all comes down to craftsmanship and if care is taken during install. A good job isnt cheap and an expensive job isn’t always better either. So many hacks out there and most homeowners have no idea what they are getting. Still like dura rock its strong, but now i put membrane over it or at least a wide band in the corners. The 1/2” kerdi board isn’t stiff enough @ 16” on center, in my opinion. 5/8” and 3/4” kerdi board are great. Sal does a nice job. I would always put a bead of silicone where the tub flange meets the rock and down the side where the flange stops. Most tear outs you see a leak where the flange ends and down the side of the tub. Sal is using the waterproofer to do it. With the roll membranes you can caulk it as well. Details make a difference.
Excellent video 👍, the only thing I do differently is that I tarpaper behind the Durock and use stainless steel ring shank nails to fasten the backer board. I started papering behind the Durock after I remodeled a bathroom that had been waterproofed with the roll on membrane, when I ripped into the wall, I noticed that there were areas where the waterproofing wasn't really up to snuff and water had been leaking through some cracked grout in the corners and under a soap dish and had actually penetrated into the stud cavity
Sal is a master Craftsman. I have NEVER seen anyone install tile like this..
Wow! End result looks great!
You should include more of the finished product, and show off your work. It really looks wonderful.
Soon as I saw the new balance shoes, I knew.. this guy knows what he's doing
😊👍
The shimming of the wall surface to match the thickness of the tub flange is crucial. Thanks for your video. It's given me a leg up on the upcoming project in our home.
It really surprises me since shower flange is ALWAYS an issue why one of the pros have not come up with a new creation to make it easier
Very helpful. I’m a first timer-redoing our shower, and you answered my questions.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Sal. Every little bit of what you teach in your videos helps me build enough courage to do it for myself. If you ever get a chance to do a video on a brand new bathroom which includes the layout of the washroom the plumbing and a stand up shower with a nice bench then that's what I need to do. I have a whole second story that I have to build and design rooms and closets and bathroom layouts and my mind keeps going in different directions
Thanks so much for this highly instructive video. My contractor, who is very good, had not heard about waterproofing Duroc until yesterday. He asked several of the guys he knows who do this work after one tiler told him to waterproof. So, I went online to research and had the good fortune of finding this video on my first try. My new shower surround will be waterproofed!
This is top 3 best videos on installing the backer board and waterproofing. I’ve never done it before and going to do my own bathrooms. I’ve watched a good 30 videos on this subject alone. This answered every question I had. Hence watching so many videos. I definitely subscribed and watching more of your videos.
Werd 👍 🎉
Mr. Sal, you are a true craftsman. I wish I had youdo my bathroom. Many are poorly trained. They charge top dollar for crap work. They defend their work. 😥. Sad.
Hi Sal, I just wanted to say that you do a super job! Seriously, I wish there were more people that take pride in their work like you do. I like the fact the that you use the alkaline proof tape - something many forget! Thank you for your great video (both easy to follow and understand the steps involved). I also like that you are not bound to the Schluter products that do the same that you are doing at a much greater expense.
Thanks Sal!!!
Forget Schluter, Durick USG needs classes like these. Never mind all this environmentally unfriendly plastic.
@@MattCupan ‘
I started doing tile back in 1990 in the Atlanta area.I only used Durock and never waterproofed so im not even sure that was a thing back then the waterproofing i mean .Never had any issues with doing it that way using tile and marble .When installing tile i give it a few taps with a rubber mallet to insure a good bond
The dislikes are from the contractors that use drywall screws, install backer above tub rim, and never water proof. Nice video bathrooms look great.
👍
Rob Williams you do realize this installation is a fail? No Auqabar between studs and backer board.
Hardibacker is NOT water proofing
@@sdbassin1143 I'll save Sal the trouble, and tell you to listen to 8:30 again. He explains why. Also, it's better to waterproof in front of the CBU, not behind. Pretty much the last ten minutes of this video is him waterproofing.
@@RyanBissell it is better. But a $20 roll of plastic over the insulation and studs is ok. Youll save a $6 pine stud and an hour to replace 20 years later. Just that the backer fasteners are going to Pierce through that vapor barrier. So you're rolling the dice. This clearly is not Sal's 1st rodeo. I hope 20 years from now I can still work like Sal. Dude needs an apprentice. Or, just do consulting work for like Brox or something.
@@sdbassin1143 Nothing worse than some dipshit who stumbles into a comment section and vomits on his keyboard without having watched the whole f*cking video.
It is so satisfying watching a true tradesman do professional and quality work. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
Thank you very much!
Excellent commentary and good stable camera work! I was very impressed with the level of detail on your waterproofing technique and I enjoyed how you sped up when necessary to show the entire process. Thank you Sal. Great work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Believe it or not installing the cement board and this prep work in my favorite part of the job. Tiling is too stressful for me.
God bless you. You do some amazing work. May God give you good health so you can continue to do what you love.
Thank you for your video. I have 3 showers to complete and a bunch of backer board im putting down. 40 sheets or hardy backer and another 25 sheets my drywall guy installed for the showers. My drywall hangers installed the shower backer boards with drywall screws so i followed suit for the backer board on the floors. Good news is nothing is tiled yet so i will be driving galvanized screws in in between the drywall screws. Not excited about tbat but better than the drywall screws corroding out. I dont want to do this more than twice in my lifetime.
I'm subscribing to your channel. You do good work my friend. To point out, you do reiterate details which is good for us new to DIY projects. Repetitiveness excels memory. Also, I see you're doing the work properly. I can't tell you how often I run into shotty jobs because contractors bang out jobs quick for an easy buck. In the long run, their work doesn't withstand time and use because it wasn't done properly. So a shout out to you good sir. Thank you for your good work and detailed videos!
A
Contractors will skip many steps but the finish product will look nice so you won't know any difference. But skipping many of these steps will be the difference whether you shower last 3 years or 3 decades....after the bathroom start falling apart in 3 years that contractor will be long gone or you won't remember who you hired to do the job
Brilliant video ~ sped up the long boring bits without losing valuable information. Home Depot was telling me I had to buy a specific electric drill and circular disc ~ $45 for just the disk for one bath/shower unit to cut the Backer Board. This is much more economical option and so easy. Great help. Thanks Sal
Bad idea, would make a lot of dust doing that way exposing you to Silica in the dust.
Plain and simple instructions from an old school craftsman.
This is very welcomed information. Thank you!
👍😊
Omg. This video was super helpful. I want to redo my tub area. I’m doing this alone. I appreciate you, your knowledge and this video. God Bless.
Glad it was helpful!
You sir are an expert. Thank you for sharing!
Another huge benefit of roll on vapor barrier like this is your thinset doesn’t dry out as fast when tiling. Cement board draws the moisture out of your thinset cutting your working time.
first video I see where it leads from start (getting the cement board) to the Finnish. Thx!
I like when someone shows the simple way of doing it. Not like those guys that want to make it look all complicated.
👍😊
Sal, this information is terrific and your work, flawless...
What information
Great video. But one thing I would suggest is to float the cement board above the tub lip so it cannot wick water up into the walls. The tile hand IN the lip and it will drip water into the tub.
Sal thank you! You have singlehandedly answered every question I had in this one video!
I cut Hardie Backer just fine with a utility knife. Maybe if I were doing a "pro" job I'd want a better tool but for my DIY it worked fine.
Good video. I appreciate hearing the rules about what you can do and what you can't. Very helpful, thank you
Reason I made the Video.
This video may not have the fancy production look of some others but this is by far the best one I have seen. You give succinct info/tips that have ALL the info needed without wasting time going into useless details. Watching this video has given me the confidence to start on my shower.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for giving details without the needing to hear yourself talk ;-). Perfect video.I learned a bunch.
POETRY IN MOTION!! You are a MASTER SAL thanks for the trade secrets...
You bet
I wish you would have showen how, the board sit on lip of tub,i leave it 1/8 off tub and caulk joint
Thats good, keeps board from wicking moisture from the tub rim. Caulk is good but may not be permanent. Eventually it will loose its bond.
My boss is the same way. He would also say it's easier to do a thing manually than to use a tool. In this case, a hole saw. While not wrong. It's definitely not " easier" . Also your work is really really good
Hi Sal! I've watched a lot of your videos and as a result I am feeling pretty confident that I am ready to handle the tiled tub surround project for our newly purchased home. My question is regarding the seam where the backer board meets the existing wall. We did not choose ( for cost reasons) to tile all the way to the ceiling and have left about a foot and a half of the plaster walls at the top. How should I properly seal the seam between the cement board and the plaster? Thank you!
Same as the durock, Mesh tape and thinset, just be sure to overlap the tile over the seam to hid the transition.
Your hired. You are a good teacher; and most importantly an honest contractor. God bless you.
You don’t know that by watching the video
Hello.
I understand the purpose of the fabric is to hold the waterproof membrane, but how did you decide which parts to put the fabric on? Just every joint or corner? Also what is the fabric and do I need it with Redgard?
Thanks for this video, it answered my other questions I came here looking for!
I have the same question. Excellent video.
If you're using redgard in particular, they suggest that you use a fiberglass mesh tape. If you go to Home Depot and tell him that you need tape for the corners of your cement board for a shower or bath they will point you to the right stuff. Hope this helps
Greg Swan The mesh tape is used on joints and corners only. It’s purpose, while it does allow for waterproofing membrane to stick better, is actually to ensure that the seam between cement boards/joints does not crack. Your house and its walls are in constant motion. The tape helps pick up slight movement so it does not crack between boards, which will for certain crack your grout lines, or worst case actual tiles.
This guys is absolutely a professional! Great work.
Thanks 👍
Brilliant video, explains everything. Thank you.
Hi Sal. I Am a remodeling contractor, usualy i would sub out a tile job, sometimes for small jobs its difficult to line someone up, So I have to do it myself. From my personal experience, I can tell any one out there, this guy is giving expert level advice. So thanks for the refresher. Now I am off to tile a shower.
What do you do once you install cement board to drywall ceiling? Do you need to tape it?
Board goes on top of lip not the edge. Cement board wicks just like wallboard. Tile hangs over the rise on tub or pan and is solid as long as there is 80% adhesion of tile to waterproofing membrane. The space guarantees water will not wick. Silicone the bottom of tile and maintain for a guaranteed solid and mold proof system.
Good job
After watching 6 of videos like this, Yours was the best.
Thanks
One more question regarding the use of Hardiebacker, if you don't mind, sir.
A problem I have when driving screws is the screw will push out a quarter sized area of the board as it passes through the back. The Hardiebacker, as a result, doesn't sit flush against the studs. In many cases there is a noticeable bulge on the outside surface. Drilling pilot holes for the screws eliminates this problem, but that means extra labor.
Is this an issue when using Durock?
Not an issue with Durock, and another reason not to use hardie.
That's good to know. I might glue my hardiebacker to the wall and wait for it to stick before driving the screws through. It might help with the bulging.
I pre drilled my holes and had no issues
Your making to big a deal about the screw bugles. Set the screw flush with the surface. The tjinset will be thick enough so there won't be any high spots if the appropriate amount is combed on
Permabase guys. Hardi sucks. For real.
I do it pretty much the same. I always keep a bundle of lath and a bunch of cardboard shims for the "studs out of whack" situation. I also have a few of worn out hole saws to cut the holes for the shower valve and head.
Cardboard shims?
I'd say cement board your whole house but then you'd never know if you ever had a roof leak. lol
Put it on your roof too.
I'm watching your vids. Very helpful. I'm just about done refinishing my bathroom and waterproofed with expensive BIN primer. I'm old. What else have I got to do. Mudding is an AWFUL job with finishing but damn I managed. The BIN is super stuff.
Did you used modified or unmodified for the seams using mesh tape?
Quedog KU alum... was that joint compound?
thats what im trying to figure out! is the mortar used modified or unmodified..?
Check the board manufacturer web. Wanderboardlight recommended modified on their.
You are a master and an inspiration. Thank-you.
Nice thorough job...well done
Good video. Simple, how it should be.
What thinset did you use when you covered the mesh tape? Also do you use modified thinset on the tiles after waterproofing the cement boards? Thanks Sal
Modified Mapei Ultraflex 2 in both cases or Ultraflex LFT for large format tiles.
Hi Sal, is that the same as Red Gard?
No, redgard is a liquid waterproofing membrane Mapei Ultraflex 2, Ultraflex LFT are thinset mortar.
Sal DiBlasi can I use LFT thin set for floor installation on wall tile that is 12x24 porcelain tile? My local Home depot doesnt carry Mapei' thin set. I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on my situation.
bluekeet Lowe's sells mapei products
Great explanation, this really helped me out tnx!
Glad it helped!
Amazing video! You covered so many concerns I’ve.
Great work. Never saw this much attention to detail with bathroom sealant application. Twenty years plus gauranteed. Thanks for sharing.
Perfect timing on this post. I am starting my project this weekend. I have a full tub enclosure. The 18" above the enclosure has green sheetrock with paint above it. The paint is peeling off from 20 years of steam and exposure light splashing from the shower. I am going to be putting durock today then installing porcelain tile later this week. Will this durock need waterproofing at this height or would just a normal installation with thinset, mastic then grout cover this level of splashing/moisture?
I usually go to the ceiling, but as long as you go over the shower head you should be fine.
Thanks Sal, Do you have any videos on the tools you use to cut the tile? I rented a wet saw in the past but see you sell dry tools on your site. I would like to see a video on your tile cutting techniques.
Right here th-cam.com/video/xeTj9cgaSU8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for all you do, Sal. I'll be doing a tub surround like this, because I can't find Kerdi or any other XPS-type backer board material near me.
Supplies can be a big problem these days.
At what point do you decide to shim prior to putting the cement board? 1/4"? less?
Whatever ever is needed, the studs have o be all in the same plain
Debra Duran j
pure poetry. I enjoy your work.
I can certainly appreciate you and all the others that make attempts to teach their trades to all the DIY'ers, like me. I have learned so much from all the vids on TH-cam. I have also learned how "not to do it". Everything in this vid looks correct but for one. I don't have 27 minutes right now to look closer but it appears that you laid the cement board on or behind the cement tile base. This is not the first vid to show that. Many "experienced" tile guys do it. Most do not.Doing that makes it easier. But cement wicks water. Any water in the cement pan WILL wick into the cement walls touching the pad. That causes a bunch of issues. Bad idea. Leave a 1/2 inch or so between the cement board and the floor tile. And one other bad idea is using a plastic vapor barrier over the studs and behind the cement board. Now you have a water sandwich. Bad idea.
mike curranto interesting how someone with a bit of information can be so certain that they know all that needs to be known. What if pointed you to a bit more information that showed that what I did was correct, and then even more to show it was wrong, and then yet again the complete picture to show both are acceptable depending on the materials used and the type of board and method used. You know what you know, however I also know what you know, and what you don't know and then some more. Just in case you are wondering, get a copy of the TCNA handbook and look it up.
Hey Sal can you give a little more detail as to what was said here
Mike was saying that the cement board should not be in the mud, but above it, he is both right and wrong at the same time. A fiber cement board like Hardie, should be left above the mud base and a bead of sealant should be used between the two, however a true cement board, like Durock, can be in the mud without issue as long as it does not extend all the way down to the liner. Also depending on the system used and the waterproofing applied the whole thing can have different needs as to what can be done. So to my point, having a little bit of information that is correct, does not give the entire picture and may in some cases be wrong. It is all in the TCNA handbook which is based on ANSI standards.
Thanks Sal appreciate the explanation
Hey Sal, don't you just love guys who do a little research on the internet and think they know how prep a shower and set tile better than guys like us that do it everyday for a living.
P.S. Mike here has obviously been watching Starr "I hate Schluter" Tile.
I learned the hard way on protecting the tub
The moving camera is making me dizzy....
WAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH theres always that complainer
Great video, your the man Sal! Watching these videos has given me the confidence to attempt a bathroom renovation!
Great to hear!
Excellent video.
Excellent workmanship.
Excellent explanation..
But I would prefer to use DENSSHIELD Tile Backer board.
Cuts easier, lightweight easier to screw just like drywall. And mold / moisture resistant...
I use to use Denshield, until I decided not to.
Thanks for your great videos
My pleasure!
This video was one of the best out there, he is very good and thorough, thank you for your advise, now I’m ready to go !
Glad it was helpful!
Sal is a master at his craft!
😊👍
You took long , but you did it the right way and that's all that matters . Very good job brother
thanks for the right call on where to install the backer board, below the tub lip top, you would think that should be obvious based on what water does, kinda like installing the flashing on a window where it overlaps starting at the bottom and working up to the top, but there a few posts calling for bb to be above top of lip, I am using the screws that secure the lip to the framing as a guide for the height, they stick out anyway, the bb resting just on top of the screw head
As I know the cement is harder than Gibson Board why the cement board easy broken ?
The best video I have ever seen, thank you so very much 👍👍
Dont know what it is but I've always found it so satisfying painting on the waterproofing onto durock, soaks it right up. I usually use redgard. Easier for me to get. Nice method sealing the tub with the fiberglass.
Bryce Hughes try the green one from Lowe’s that’s the equivalent to Red Guard. Seem to like it better
@@travisharrington856 If I get a chance, I'll try it. No Lowe's near me unfortunately.
Great job with your installation.
I find the best way to hang cement board, though, is to first hang water resistant gypsum, then return the cement board to the store.
JK, I used cement board for my own house, but recently when doing someone elses found it impractical.
The particular layout had many long narrow strips, large cutouts near edges and close together etc.
The board is very fragile and I found it difficult to cut it without using tools that create a lot of toxic dust, so I just switched to gypsum.
best vid yet
Thanks for watching my video.
This guy is such a badass.
😊👍
Definitely gave you a thumbs up.... And I can personally say that because of the fair warning that you gave people when cutting the backing board and the possible toxic fibers.. not a lot of people care to share that
Thanks for watching my video.
Great work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!