Don't Make This Common Clutch Mistake!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
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nuh don't listen to this fool. he's misleading you with nonsense next thing he'll tell you to shift gears on full on throttle
better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
I don't think there's anything wrong with pulling the clutch all the way in. It's just important that you know where the friction zone is and you can reach it quickly for modulating the power.
I only do that when I'm starting to take off
When I go into 2nd gear or 3rd ect. do I pull clutch in when I hear the high rpms and then shift up and release clutch ir do I do it together
Oo
That isn't wrong but it doesn't feel good if you pull it all the way in before shifting bc you're totally cutting the transfer of power from the engine to the drivetrain, the bike won't accelerate as good as pulling the clutch only to the friction zone. Shifting also feels smoother when you do it. You could also learn how to power shift if you already know how to clutch properly.
@@N.I.C.K.0.3 Yeah I have tried it after I watched his video. Yes it feels smoother. However, I don't know if that's something I'd recommend a beginner rider to do if he's busy getting used to other stuff. Note that before I tried this I could already do clutchless shift so this "friction zone" shift is like something in between. IMO this could be a bit advance, or not
Totally understand about the friction zone, but it seems like a muscle reflex to pull the clutch in all the way to shift. Will take time to retrain muscle memory to do it this way. Trying it on my next ride.
It is the first and most useful skill to learn. Also make sure your lever is adjusted for your hand because if you decide to adjust it later it will feel very weird and it will take time for you to get used to the new friction zone.
i always use two fingers and the clutch is just out of the zone when it touches my other fingers maybe that will help you
It takes practice!
You must have stronger fingers than mine then! Ha
Used to do that, later realised not pulling the clutch all the way makes shifting smoother also faster.
Respectfully disagree that pulling the clutch in all the way is a mistake. Sure, you can shift the way you demonstrate here, but it will also wear out your clutch faster. $$$$$
Agree
So if we only do half pull clutch it will wear out our clutch plate faster right? And pulling all clutch in is better for long term durability? Am i correct this far?
Yes sir, you can see that by looking at the clutch its not totally lose os totally intense if it's not all the way in/out.. So can you shift faster like that yes u can, do you use it if needed in tight turn situation, yes u can but is it smart to use it all the day all the time? No. You will cause shorter life span of a clutch
Also that's why there's no need to hold the bike in Gear on a stop light with clutch pulled in.. Or why these is no need to rest your hand on a clutch.. Just by resting a hand on a clutch you can see the movements happening
@@redaradi1767 good one
I started using two fingers (index and middle) to pull the clutch and set my lever such that when the clutch lever touches the ring finger the bike is at the end of the friction zone. Helps with the consistency.
Subconsciously started doing that only cuz my hands would cramp. I feel more in control over my bike too
Exactly, two fingers is the best way to shift IMHO
@@marcd7332 I shift with one finger front brake with one finger ... 🤷♂️
@@georgephillips7408 whit which finger? With index finger or middle finger?
👊🤝👍
Yeah Bro
I'm opposed to this, either pull the clutch in fully while shifting gears, and in turning if you think you need to but never partially for sure because doing so will wear your clutch plate faster due to friction in between the running engine and the clutch.
Faccts
You are right
Right. This is the recipe for early clutch burning
Agree
Not true. Your friction plates are fully disengaged when your clutch lever is pulled in one-quarter of the distance to the handlebar. Pulling your clutch lever all the way back all the way to the handlebar does nothing to separate the friction plates any further. th-cam.com/video/JhTf7cBeGcs/w-d-xo.html
Greg I would digress here. Though I second your point about friction zone, the above technique comes in handy when trying to find that starting point of friction zone. Shifting right at that friction point especially at low speeds can cause stalls and thuddy shifts. It's primarily due to the fact called "clutch graze" where the clutch isn't fully engaged and fully disengaged, the start point of friction zone as you put it. This is okay for high speed shifting (remember quickshifters and how they make life easy after a particular RPM), but for slow speeds, beginners, it's better to depress the clutch fully or 70% for better quality gear shifts and clutch feel rather than grazing at the friction point.
better for all to two finer the clutch and remain hanging on to the bar.
Totally agree, there's a reason why the clutch lever is designed the way it is. Teaching new riders bad habits to start with is downright dangerous. Continuing pumping out bad advice like this is just plain stupid.
Good point Vijay.
thank you i thought so
is it not hard on the clutch as well if you don't make it all the way through the friction zone and try and shift... I understand you can shift with no clutch but..
Hey Greg ....its a newbie rider with his very first moto (Triumph Trident 660 which I am loving btw) at the tender age of 61 years young ! Only very recently completed my 2 day prelearners & follow up one day course which now allows me to ride solo ...
these are the laws in my state of Qld in Australia . I have only very recently found your bloody amazing and brilliantly delivered you tube videos !! I now realise how much more I need to learn to be truly confident and safe on the roads. Sure I get lots of advice from guys I know that have been riding for year but thats doesn't mean they have been riding without bad habits for all those years. I am pretty stoked to swallow my ego and pride.... feel its so important to just listen watch and learn with all of your videos. I am already taking all of this knowledge out of the road including the Common Clutch mistake and feel I am improving with every ride and self talking with your mantra from another clip "CALM AWARENESS" burned into my subconscious . So from the Land Downunder ...you have now one of your biggest Aussie Fans glued to the screen and bingeing MotoJitsu. Thanks mate and congrats on being such a wonderful mentor to sooooo many riders New and Old. Cheers Baz
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
Easy, just use 2 finger(pointy and middle finger) to pull the clutch. Whenever you pulled your clutch, the clutch lever will stop on your ring finger. At this point the clutch is already release and you can change your gear.
Sometimes, the riders will adjust their clutch cable free play depending on their riding style. A longer free play, shorter lever pull. A shorter free play, longer lever pull. Just play around with it and feels what neutral for you and fit you the best. (I'm sorry for my english, not a native speaker)
Only works with newer bike, try using 2 fingers on my 1970 Laverda and that clutch won't move by a millimeter😂
@@simonegabellini6382 Not all of us drive old bike. But man, my comment was two years ago now. Damn, time flies.
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
I've been feeling tremendous pain in my left wrist ... I was pulling the clutch all the way and often shifting gear. I've started applying your tip, and I am recovering. Thanks SO MUCH. I thought I would have to stop riding but I guess I don't ;)
Bro lube ur clutch cable and if possible put your plates too in the lube overnight.Parked for a long time makes the clutch hard. it will be butter smooth. learn good habit to ride. just fully engage your clutch.m riding for the past 30 years and I have never faced clutch failure in any of my bikes. i ride fast and safe too.
best wishes
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
Depends on the bike, how your riding, where your riding, and the conditions, and Will put more wear on clutch and gear box.
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
Just tried this out on the street and it made my shifting way smoother and more efficient. Thanks!
Plrestomalsysm
@@gangadharankaruppal8335 idk what that means bro
I started doing this in the 2nd week of biking and now this is how I do it always. Shifting was obviously one of the most annoying things about learning to ride but after less than a week it wasn’t annoying anymore! I love shifting! So many ways to shift!!! High rpm, low, early, late downshift. Upshift to go 20 then downshift a second later to go back to 15ish. I use the friction zone when needed, usually and almost always at lower speeds and 1-2 gears.
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
I appreciate this lesson. I'm a new rider but have naturally been working the clutch as you taught here (except at full stop -- clutch is all the way in). I see the benefits of doing the way you've taught, but how much of a mistake is it to pull the clutch all the way in? Too much effort? Inefficiency? Harms the bike?
not a big mistake, just wasted energy, less efficiency, more difficult to gauge when the clutch reengages so you are missing out on finer control. doesn't harm the bike unless you're on a dry clutch
i'm not a pro but I feel like you're more at risk of ruining your clutch if you dont get all the way through the friction zone? .. 🤷♂️
@@iamtheonethatwonagain8354 Most definitely. But when the disks slip against each other, you feel it. Even the slightest slip.
It’s not a mistake while shifting
@@iamtheonethatwonagain8354 I believe uve read your being corrected on this misinformation...but here it is again...wetbath clutch on m/c is DESIGNED to work this way. NO damage!
Learned this way: Preload the shift lever, then "reverse blip" throttle and pull only enough clutch for it to slip into gear. Usually not much clutch, if at all, and more downshifting than up. Lower rpms need more clutch to make it smooth. MSF courses teach beginning riders to do this poorly, among other things. Your efforts at remedial education here are valuable and appreciated!
That's actually correct. For upshifting, you don't even need to pull the clutch at all. On the track we all use quickshift nowadays, so that we don't have to use the clutch up, but before I've learned to do the same by just closing the throttle a little bit. The blipper does the same downshifting, but it's still for few models. MotoGP have seamless, and that's an entirely different story. 😉
@@CarloPiana agree! for upshifting if done right, no clucht is needed for shifting with little to no jerky even without the quick-shift support. I still not sure about the old bike. In modern vehicle, they might did some thing magical about the clucht and gear system to do it.
This is a really good way to destroy your synchro's in your gearbox. Pull the clutch in 100%, let the engine rpms fall between clutch disengagement and clutch engagement. Too many people shift poorly, with very little smooth coordination between pulling in and disengaging the clutch and using their foot to shift roughly into the next gear, not allowing enough time for rpms dropping and synchro gears meshing cleanly.
💯 fax
Thankyou
Your logic is correct for car transmissions, but motorcycle transmissions don't have synchros. Motorcycle sequential transmissions have constant-mesh gears that use dog collars to select the next gear. While true that pulling in the clutch 100% every time will probably decrease the wear on the dog-collars, the difference is pretty minimal.
In addition to continuous sync gears, motorcycles have wet bath clutch so friction zone is golden with no damage
Motorcycle transmissions uses dog clutches instead of synchronizers
I don't know what you call in over there in America but here in the UK it's called "clutch control". You have to demonstrate your knowledge and application of it in a CBT (compulsory basic training), which you have to have before you're allowed on public roads. Then you are allowed to ride up to 125cc motorcycle on L plates.
Then there are two other tests you have to pass before you are allowed to ride anything you like. The first test gives to the right to ride up to 65 BHP, I think, then the second anything. Unless you are over 24 or 25, can't remember exactly, then you only have to take one test. Most people will buy the bike they really want after the first test and have it derestricted down to 65 BHP then unrestricted after they pass their second.
We take road safety seriously over here! It's not a matter of if you can afford it you can have it. A motorcycle is not a toy that you should be able to play with without the proper training, for all road users sake.
Riding a motorcycle that can reach 200 MPH and get to 60 in less than 3 seconds not a right, it's something you have to earn.
I also know that this angers American's and I will get inundated with negative comments. I have heard them all before. Go for it, show yourself up for the entitled Karens you really are. Me Me Me, I want it NOWWWWW........
Funny, everywhere else you call it "clutch burn"...
I've adjusted my clutch to work with 2 fingers. I used to use 4 fingers about a year ago. Now that I'm using 2 fingers, it feels great. EDIT::: that sounded dirty.
4 finger stinger! 2 fingers cleaner 🤣🤣😉
I’m really enjoying this series of these short instructional content videos. Please keep them coming, great value…
You are right to a point, but IMHO you may be misleading novices. "Playing in the friction zone" may be wearing friction plates/disks unless you know what you're doing. In over 15 years of riding, I've only had to rebuild a clutch once - and that was really because I installed stronger springs. (I've had both wet and dry clutches) Yes, I use the friction zone too, but not the way you demonstrate. I'm much more positive ON/OFF drive. The "zone" is just a fraction of a second transition to prevent shock on the drive train. (Each to his own, I guess.)
Just got my first bike last week amd this comment feels like important info but its chinese to me lol ive never been around bikes
Riding as you describe, you would not be able to pass even the most basic, beginner motorcycle course or license test. This is not his idea, lol...it's the standard in US MSC courses and worldwide licensing. It's so basic, it's taught second only after how to turn ur bike on and off. They r designed and built to be used this way without unusual wear or tear.
When shifting faster, I'll often only tap the clutch between gears. I'll use only two fingers and quickly tap on the clutch lever, pulling it in just barely enough to allow the clutch to slip, that combined with timing the throttle and shift lever makes for very fast and smooth shifts. Course thats only really one step remove from a full clutch less upshift, which I also do from time to time. Stuff like this is why I love a 300. Even on the street, being quick with your shifts can matter. Usually it doesn't, but if you're having a bit of fun and chasing a bike faster than you, you can use all the tools in your toolbox and use everything the bike has. Its that ability to safely and reasonably use everything your bike has whenever you like, that lets you get better and better at riding. I've practiced more highspeed clutchless shifts, spent more time maximizing rpms for power, and spent far more time working on my cornering than most people riding 1000cc bikes even can. Dont even get my started on low speed stuff.
I bought my daytona 675r yesterday, I've been riding in my neighbourhood practicing braking, pulling away, shifting gears and not to lean on the handlebars (i keep forgetting after 5 minutes). Now that you mention the clutch thing there is a huge dead space.
After a few stop signs I noticed it's a lot easier to do slow maneuvers with the clutch partially pulled like you said.
Try using a bit of a rear brake while giving some power while doing maneuvers - it would be even smoother
I taught /instructed motor cops years ago. First day all we did for the first 8 hours is practice and play with friction zone. We did this in every gear.. all day long. You wouldn’t believe how many guys (some of them life long riders ) were able to finally ride and control their bikes at amazing levels. I will still occasionally fully pull in clutch at a stop light. But that’s about it.
I don't even use my clutch to upshift if I'm accelerating hard.. The clutch is a power button
@@kenandrieling5885 doesn't that affect your gearbox then?
@@04mmar Not when you're upshifting... I use the clutch to downshift though
If you are accelerating hard just put some upward pressure on the shift lever and let off the throttle For a split second it will slip in the gear
That is also how you shift gears in the middle of a wheelie
I am a new rider and on my way home from work I decided to try this. I must admit, when I shifted in the friction zone, instead of pulling my clutch in all the way, it was a noticeable difference when I shifted gears. It was a noticeable and smoother transition. I plan to improve my skills practicing.
EPHESIANS 4:32
look at this guy 😂 a new rider who actually wants to learn to be faster and smoother.
People ride for 15 years and REFUSE to learn the right way, just because they think they know better.
My brother, keep learning. You will never stop learning in life. Try to downshift at a very rapid pace (maybe not in the street🤭)
When downshifting, do this trick… never letting the clutch be fully pulled. While you’re doing that, rev match your shifts and apply more and more front brake pressure.
You will have learned how to brake using 100% brake force, and if you ever go to the track you will be faster than a good 1/3 of the people there :)
Romans 9:13
Its just like a car. I call it the "engagement point". You clutch in until you hear the motor start to drop revs (off the gas, obviously), then shift there. As you said, there is no reason to clutch all the way in, it just wears out your throw-out bearing by putting more pressure on it and engaging it longer....
Every day is a learning day with you mate thanks again for sharing your useful techniques with us .😃
Thanks, as I've always wondered. But definitely not when shifting to first gear as I do need to fully pull the clutch otherwise it makes a unfriendly clunking sound.
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
This man is a Sensi for everything motorcycle related! Especially the one regarding proper form for knee/elbow dragging! Thank you!
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
I feel like this would be a difficult one.
I, like most people probably, despite pulling in that clutch fully shift a bit early before we bottom it out. Also, since you're blipping the throttle I basically go for a clutchless shift, but pull the clutch in for insurance.
I'm going to try to do this. It easy for me to play with the friction zone in low speed like when I'm doing a U-turn but I should learn this for sure
Think I disagree with this. Could be rough on gears and clutch imo.
Nope. My bike is 10 years old and I have been clutchless shifting for most of that time. It just kind of happens after a while. Knock on wood, I have never had an issue.
We are not talking about clutch-less shifting here buddy @probably_drunk
@@goosefraba2385 leave it. hes probably drunk!
I remember many years ago reading a book written by Mike Hailwood and Murray Walker....'The Art of Motorcycle Racing' in which Mike was talking about clutchless gear changes.Mike actually recommended just 'easing 'the clutch for a smooth change and less strain on the transmission.I ride A Triumph Street Triple and I have practised clutchless changes which I became proficient at but I prefer a very slight easing of the lever and I get very fast seamless changes with this method.And it hasn't harmed the gearbox in 53,000 miles .TBH I think it is ludicrous to pull the lever all the way in....just a fraction into the friction zone acts as a 'shock absorber' for the gearbox.
Bingo.
Exactly what I was taught and still practice 30 years later.
Once you have the hang of clutchless shifting, the clutch is only there 'to act as a shock absorber' as you said.
Just a lil squeeze to bring it to biting point is all that is needed.
Interesting....I'm a begginer just got my bike 1 month ago and I think I have stumbled onto what you are saying while riding my bike....it's like a blip to the clutch while shifting seems to work for me...I didn't know this was a technique....thank you.
This is the greatest advice I received as a begginer. The clutch in the car I only use for a short period. For motorcycle, as I tested use it all the time in slow speed for first and second gear. Now I can manage my motorcycle at slow speed. If I do not press the clutch when I am in first gear and I try to accelerate, the motorcycle is very brutal. Now is just fine when I use the clutch in the friction zone, moe smoothly. Thanks
@MotoJitsu better drive bicycle not motorcycle idiot
I love these short 1 min lessons! Thank you!
As a new rider I accidentally discovered and started doing this organically when I noticed that I could shift more quickly and smoothly this way 👍
You gonna burn you clutch soon... With all respect..this is not the way it should be
@@abdulazizsaleh9567you are not going to burn your clutch after the friction zone mate. Where are your braincells?
The friction zone on my motorcycle is pretty close to the bar (it's still pretty new), and if I adjust the lever out farther I can't comfortably reach it.
I'm too used to cars where you push the clutch pedal down all the way so I have carried that habit over to riding as well.
Cars with upgraded clutches have a very small friction zone and you don't push it down all the way too.
The clutch cable adjustment should be based on lever slack, there should be about 2-3mm gap from the lever to the perch. If there isn't that bit of slack on the clutch line, you are wearing out that clutch cable.
If you still can't reach it with the correct adjustment, you could buy a adjustable clutch lever.
Same thing happened with my bike, they fixed it when I sent it for a service.
you need to adjust the clutch cable.
at the engine side of the cable.
Nothing to do with clutch, but talking about being a new rider as a car driver.. Even while riding my bike i still have the habit of “looking up the rear view mirror”. It’s split second but cracks me up every time.
I don’t ride a bike but I still gotta say something about this dude, he really shared something useful. This is actually what I have discovered after having driven manual cars for almost 10 years now, that is, stay away from the dead space on either end (clutch pedal/lever freeplay and pedal/lever travel after complete clutch disengagement) I wish I had learned this sooner, but nobody taught me, also I probably wouldn’t know who is correct as there were so many different “correct” ways out there. It’s hilarious to see bunch of people in the comments saying “oh, you will wear your clutch faster”, because they have absolutely no idea what they are talking about, there is nothing getting worn out faster. This is without a doubt the most important part of driving/riding a manual, you would be amazed by how fast yet smooth the engagement is. Some of you guys will eventually realize this one way or another and think to yourself, gee, I wish I knew this sooner.
Bret Tcakz, forgot the spelling sorry, has a good video about how to adjust the clutch free play. Also, good practice to keep the pinky and ring fingers wrapped around the handlebar and only use the middle and index fingers to cover the clutch and do the actual clutch work.
It grinds your bikes gears ⚙️
Not a good tip
Pull the clutch fully
Thanks but I think I'll pull my clutch in all the way like I've been doing for 45+ years on numerous bikes. Never had any clutch problems so I'm sticking with it.
You've been doing it wrong for 45 years. Why aren't you using 2 fingers on the clutch?
@@Rhetorical346 more fingers equals more more control over your clutch. This is all bad habits to teach new Riders. These kinds of tips I wouldn’t give to anyone.
@@Rhetorical346 2 fingers on the brakes, clutch is 4
@@dezavite this is the MOST BASIC of lessons.....we r talking about #2 after crank/shut off ur bike. We are talking US basic MSC format and worldwide. This is accepted as safest and best use from beginner to highest pro level. Don't let ur imagination stop ur learning
@@chipblanc6037 when the hell did I ever state that h would ever stop learning? I never claimed to be a pro rider nor did I ever state that I’m too good to continue learning. No matter how good I am at something I will be a learner. But I’m my experience I’d like to have the most control over my bike as I can. Especially over important controls like my brakes, clutch, shifter, throttle etc. for a quick shift I can see two fingers be the more ideal thing to do but it all depends on your clutch level as well. And how stiff the clutch is. Some clutches can be too stiff for people to use to fingers. Either way whether you use two fingers or more either should be fine.
Sometimes I think why are you explaining stuff like this..it's like breathing..then I see comments ... Good job dude 👍
Thanks for sharing that. I was lucky to found out naturally after years of feeling the bikes power and it has become second nature. And it is absolutely true. Every rider should practice this. It's a much better riding experience.
Motojitsu thank you very much for all free lesson from you about motorcycle. Greetings from Indonesia
Indonesian gangg
Honestly I struggle with this, so thanks! I'm always afraid I won't fully engage the clutch in a shift and cause some sort of premature clutch wear. I've been trying the "two finger" technique, but having fingers between the bar and the lever feels sketchy in that "I'm slipping the clutch when I don't want/need to" sort of way. I baby my bike tho, so maybe I'm just paranoid. Just don't want to break her doing something I shouldn't. Same reason I don't try wheelies... seems rough on the chain.
Get some shorter levers installed and it won't feel so bad. 2 fingers is more comfortable with a shorter lever. And because the lever is short it's more comfortable than trying to squeeze the middle of a long lever with 2 fingers
Once a mechanic told me that if I don't pull all the clutch in, the clutch discs could break.???
It will be very beneficial to use only the fore and mid fingers and leave the other fingers to act as a block in the dead zone of the clutch.. works everytime 🔥🤞
I’ve been working on this with slow speed maneuvers. Very useful skill, but I will definitely need to keep practicing.
Glad to know, I've been doing something right, without even thinking about it 🙂
Each day I ride; I find a new flaw in my riding, then the next day you post a video about it !!! Just yesterday i was noticing my change in gears was off. And boom solution! Thanks man!
It's not a mistake to pull the lever 100%. It doesn't harm the bike nor affects driving. Take it easy my friend
The clutch plates gets worn out quickly while shifting gears using partial clutch
As a relatively new rider I'll stick to pulling in the lever all the way until I upgrade to a bike that has a quick shifter. Don't want to form any bad habits while I'm still learning 😁
@@Luun89 Exactly
Ikr but this is how it is
Sometimes even on manual cars you have to ride the clutch
On bikes on tight maneuvers there is no way you can it without riding the cluth
You don't necessarily have to pull the lever in all the way to be fully disengaged. That's the point of the video.
@@confusedredditor1660 100% agree
This little piece of advice made a huge difference in the quality of my riding.thank you bro
God this might help with my shift time, me being new to riding and the bite point being pretty much all the way out meant it took me 2-3 business days to shift gears
Or ...like every other biker... Don't use the clutch?! There's no need to on a bike. Dip throttle, up shift. Blip throttle on down. Simple.
Good for the mechanic that will change that clutch plates very often 😂😂🎉🎉
Noooooooo, that's wrong.
Pull it all the way.
ALWAYS PULL YOUR CLUTCH ALL THE WAY BACK!!! Except if you want to change discs every year or so
Lol facccts
lmao you have no idea how a clutch works do you my buddy. Keep doing that, I’m sure you’re top of the mechanic class. 😂😂
A clutch is only pulled fully in when you are about to stop. Not when upshifting, and ESPECIALLY never when downshifting.
I love how none of the guys commenting this bs are bikers🤣 shows how much BS that idea is
you're wrong...
@@mick8018 why?
Quite simple...
Friction plates in a motorcycle clutch only need to separate by 2 or 3 millimeters to fully disengage all power generated from the engine crankshaft. The clutch lever travels 20 to 30 millimeters before it hits the handlebar. There is no advantage or extension of clutch life by separating the friction plates beyond 2 to 3 mm. Once they are open, all you accomplish is to separate them by a greater distance when you pull the lever all the way in...
Oh man thanks. I'm beginning learner. Just got me xv250 yamaha. This will definitely help. Keep up with the good work.👍
The best advice for the beginner riders✌️👍thank you sir
You can adjust the clutch lever if you want it a bit in or full in. You can also check the amount of press needed to make sure clutch is release by putting on 1st gear and push /move your motorcycle if it move freely. Note that on gearing to 2nd and up while riding just a little press is enough no need for clutch to relase all d way.
I don't agree to this.
Keep in mind that this applies to newer bikes/clutches. An older clutch & clutch-cable might be sticky and need to be pulled in all the way.
These short videos are terrific. Thanks
depends how you have your lever adjusted. I have mine adjusted so as I have to pull all the way in.
You can change up gears without having to use the clutch.
Does it work on bikes without quick shifter?
@@desperateeffort6945 Hm... at some rpm you can try to do this, but it will stress everything (clutch and gears)
I agree, but the manual says completely depress the clutch. U can completely depress the clutch, and add throttle at the biting point. It's knowing ur clutch
guys, stop saying he’s wrong.
Yes he explained it in a weird manner, but as someone who rides track and commutes DAILY I can attest that you do NOT pull the clutch in all the way for shifts.
When downshifting, you want to keep a constant force of engine braking while rev matching and slowly releasing the clutch. This requires you to start at the bite point and slowly work your way out.
You apply the same concept for upshifting, less crucial but the engine likes it more.
You are NOT damaging the plates by shifting at the bite point, what you are doing is shifting CORRECTLY. you burn the plates everytime you let go of the clutch after pulling it all the way in.
You guys need to realize that pulling the clutch fully in and reapplying it to the motor WEARS IT OUT. you guys are not only shifting wrong, you’re wearing your clutch out.
Parking lot maneuvers might seem to wear out a clutch, but improper shifts are the leading cause of early clutch replacements.
lol seven comments for 2,6 milion view
Seems a bit fishy. all comments are less than 4 days old aswell. Dude probably nuked all Comments or something.
You only need to pull in the clutch enough while shifting or doing slow speed practice to get in and out of the friction zone, not the full range of motion. Go try it out :) linktr.ee/GregWidmar
these little tips you have been posting are valuable info that you dont see often enough.thank you!
Thanks…because of you enjoying riding again. Have a lot of old OLD bad habits (z900)
Super helpful always helpful thank you more confident now
So is this basically like the ‘biting point’ on the clutch in manual cars? As in there is a point when you raise the clutch pedal where you can feel the gears ‘biting’ as it were?
@@friktionrc at a car you need to fully press it, but on a motorbike not. I mean, at both vehicles there are that "biting" zones as you mentioned, but on a motorbike you dont have to fully press the clutch unlike a car.
Damn man... didn't realise I wasn't doning this while up shifting. Thanks man, any form of knowledge is always appreciated.
What you are doing here is called Riding The Clutch. It results in relative motion between the friction plate and the shaft, which in turns damages the clutch plates.
This video has been burning clutches for about 8 months! Always pull clutch all the way in
I wouldn't call pulling the clutch all the way in a "mistake." It still releases the pressure plate, so it's still accomplishing what it's supposed to do. It's more overkill than mistake.
I wasn’t very sure about shifting so I gave it a try and it worked out but not clean. I then watched and listened to a person who rode for years go up and down the street slowly and fast. I have been practicing what I heard and seen. Shifting is my favorite now. If you shift correctly the bike sounds great
So what you exactly practicing ?
You’re the best online instructor! I’m based here in the Philippines. I got into motorcycles during the 2020 lockdown. I had no idea on how to ride etc. Your videos are very helpful and the way you teach is easy to understand. Cheers! Thank you!
You must use 100% the clutch every time you use it to shift gear, otherwise the gears in the engine will be damaged in a few years, but when you are in a traffic or some thing like that and you want the clutch for other purposes you use it like these person tells us in the video.
yes it's even mentioned in the owners manual (of almost every vehicle) to depress the clutch fully, and remember novice riders, it's always 100% safe to follow owner's manual than a person's advice.
I'm from India....... I agree with your point, but bike mechanics advise against it saying the clutch gets worn out faster......... this is a dilemma!!!
Put some tension on the shifter, then just pull the clutch and the gear shifts by itself
Not debating the advantages for bike control but just wanted to point out that just because you feel no power to the rear wheel does not mean the clutch is fully disengaged and having this slippage on the clutch at every stop or gear change is going to wear it out more quickly, theres a reason the lever goes to the grip
Constantly playing with the friction zone can end up badly, not only do you risk at some point to shift when the transmission is not totally disengaged and so forcing it, but if you are not careful and very agressive in shifting you may also experience abrupt accelerations making you lose stability and fall or run over a pedestrian that hasn't finished crossing the green light if you are that kind of zero patience people. I have personally stopped playing with the friction zone a long time ago, it has no benefits other than on a race track, although I recommend a shifter, it's way better for racing. For the road you want a smooth and steady start, even though there is a friction zone where most of the synchronization is done, you still get some friction before, helping you start smoothly and reducing stall risk. Personally my motorcycle instructor told me to do things right and pull the entire clutch, to let rpm go down and always make sure that the transmission is totally disengaged, never to play with the clutch you either pull it or leave it but not in between.
I would imagine pulling it all the way in is better for the clutch and gear dogs. Its obviously designed to be used the entire throw of the lever or else theyd make it a shorter throw
One big thing about this video is most people have there clutch set up differently than stock, i personally have it set that my friction zone is 1/4 inch away from the bars
You mentioned this before in another video. I started doing afterwards. Now I shift quicker and smoother. Thanks 👍
If you're not competing in a race then pull the clutch all the way.
On a car, that part of the clutch movement ie a few mills in or out when the clutch catches is called the biting point. The clutch plates bite on the drive part of the clutch. The biting point...
This is how your clutch works. ( In cars, motorcycles or even trucks as long as it is manual )
imagine it using your both hands
your left hand is the clutch plate and the right is your clutch lining
If it is just sitting and not pulling it. Put your hands together, that is what it looks like. If you pull in less than an inch. Separate your hand but not in a way that you can see a light passing through it. then rub it without separating them
next, when you pull your clutch in half.
Separate your hand a bit then rub it again.
if you pull your clutch all the way. separate you hand and rub it.
If you felt the friction. Your clutch will. and it will wear the housing eventually
I usually pull it all the way in just to be safe that im not causing premature wear with partial clutch disengagement
Do you not ride to make your tires last longer too?
I learned this big time when I got my ZX-6R, I barely have to pull in clutch to shift. Most of the time I don't even need the clutch cause my bike has a slipper clutch and assist as well as a quick shifter(up only). My previous z650 was super touchy though where I forgot how to ride it, recently got on it again and i felt like a brand new rider. My ZX-6R is just so smooth and refined about everything on it. only complaint I have about that bike is everything on the handlebars vibrates when I'm at or above 9k. Other than that it is a dream to ride.
Now I understand why I always have this forward jerk when I shift. By pulling the clutch all the way in, I am giving gas way before the bite zone of the clutch.
So I recently purchased an Suzuki sv1000. Still getting used to the bike. But when I shift up and down it's not very smooth. I'm definitely pulling the clutch handle in too far. Great advice 👍🏾
Could be where your rpms are at when downshifting as well that's making it not smooth.
@@Einkie yeah definitely. I've been trying to get better at matching the RPMs. But also I just need to realize that it's almost 20 years old.
I need to adjust my clutch and the lever to have a tighter friction zone, the bike was shipped with the friction zone being nearly at the end of the clutch lever being fully disengaged. So it has been suggested to play with the clutch settings on the dial and to adjust the piston spacing to get the friction zone about 1/2 inch away from the grip. I generally each season do rock and roll, which basically is learning the friction zone. But I find on a long ride the engagement point shifts and now what was once where I thought the friction zone was is father out.
The answer depends on circumstance. My Hyundai car has a dry clutch, so keeping it disengaged generates destructive heat, especially bad for spring steel. And, the throwout bearing heats up its lubricant, sealed inside. My HONDA bike clutch assembly sits in an engine oil bath, at a more or less constant temperature, unless I am in gear and using the clutch as a braking force, such as in gear, facing uphill, waiting for a green light, with no brakes, front or rear, applied. I rarely do that silly thing any longer. So, eliminate the destructive heat by using the rear brake AND using the ‘friction zone’. Now, FYI, some bikes have a clutch lever that needs almost no force to hold it all the way against the handgrip, very nice for minimizing hand cramps! Of course, we could just shift according to engine sound and feel, without ever using the clutch, assuming we just keep moving on...(!)
I hate pulling it halfway, because sometimes i feel like i didnt fully disengage the clutch
Once folks realize they can shift without using the clutch at all, they then understand how little clutch release is actually “needed.”
Your vids are very helpful for a Novice like me Im 32 and new to riding still a learner and ive struggled a bit getting use to the bike and watching these vids helps a-lot thank you I confess I don’t practise often enough but when I do your tips and lessons have helped me. I struggled with you turns on my sports bike but I saw one if your vids and I went out and tried what I saw and I managed to do a few you turns just need to work on controlling the power and I think ill get it. Hopefully I can use this tip too get the control right next time
Short video but very VALUABLE informations.....!!!!!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it.
this is good advice if you doing tricky manuevres at low speed, but when gunning the bike, best to pull all the way as in my case, i do my own bike repairs and i have adjusted clutch closer to the full pull. His suggestion may cause mechanical wear on gear selector, especially if the person does not pull optimum amount. I repair cars and would not recommend to do on a car, bikes have wet clutches so can take a beating, but still!!! his advice is good for control situations where staying on the friction zone improves control but not in flat out acceleration, high speed acceleration!!
clutch lining will burn and detoriate in no time...better to fully squeeze that lever
I learned this very early on driving stick at 13. The DRZ I own doesn’t need to be pulled in basically at all. You fart on the clutch on my bike and you’re in the friction zone.
Thanks for explaining this so simple was really overthinking how i would have to use the clutch 🔥
Damn this reminded me I need to adjust my clutch cable tension… I’ve been having to pull extra hard lately haha
Well the cable adjustment isn't to vary the pull effort at the lever. You should have a little slack at the lever. That way your clutch will be fully engaged. If your lever is harder to pull than before, there's something wrong.
You never take away all the power.. motorcycle clutches always grind a bit:)