I'm a huge fan of cruise control for managing SOC. That steady throttle will update it pretty quickly so you know whether or not the bike will make that distance, and you can nudge the speed up or down if necessary. Also tucking. Tucking can add 10% more range.
@@IIARROWS tucking is beneficial on just about any bike, regardless of ergonomics. I don’t know anyone that tucks just because it feels good on the bike 😆
Generally following hypermiling rules. Accelerate slowly. Drive slowly, coast, try not to have to stop. The crux on a bike is also not getting killed if you are pushing against the flow of traffic. Tire pressure is a big deal in cars. I would assume it is true here. Stay near the max your tires are allowed. Softness of tire compound would have an effect as well. But the trick is finding what you can stomach when you are forced to. On long straight highways I am often in the right lane being passed. Difference between 50 and 80 is huge on energy usage. Be interesting to understand the levels of effect body and arm position could have as well.
It’s still interesting HD/LW didn’t put an optimal/BEST range option in the list of modes. Instead of the most compromising version of range, an actual “this is the absolute best setting for getting the longest range” mode.
@@AdventuresonZero generally, that would be true but we are talking about range anxiety and a potential way to address that concern with a certified mode. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but I’ve been using your 2 mode setting and when compared to their ‘range’ mode, it is obvious they didn’t take it seriously.
Nice! I think the dual custom mode thrives on LiveWire bikes, as I'm not sure what other makers have multiple custom modes. Even in those custom modes, you can still accelerate/decelerate to rapidly to take advantage of lower settings - rider behavior is one of the bigger factors in range optimization.
Just depends on the terrain. In most cases, coasting will get you better range as you're not consuming any energy, but building up your own energy by rolling downhill. You will never regenerate more than what you're taking out, so its something good to use ONLY when you absolutely have to stop or slow down quickly, as that energy would be lost anyways.
No, it’s actually diminished returns at highway speeds. Regen is more effective at lower speeds (with an EV moto) than it is at higher speeds because you’ll never be able to put back in the amount you take out. Coasting is a better method at higher speeds because you won’t lose as much energy when you let off vs regen braking which does retain some energy, but you loose so much momentum in the process that it takes more to get back to cruising speed. That’s like filling a cup full of water, taking a big gulp then spitting out 90%, and then saying you’re drinking some water 😂
On highway your speed is constant, and you risk at braking too much if you let the regen do work. But in that case you either let the cruise control work, or really finely control the throttle to slow down the right amount. If you slow down too much, you need to spend energy again when getting up to speed again. I keep the regen max all the time and prefer to just regulate it with the throttle, or reducing speed changing the target of cruise control (depending on traffic condition and length of the road) so I don't have to change profile when I get to my exit.
I'm a huge fan of cruise control for managing SOC. That steady throttle will update it pretty quickly so you know whether or not the bike will make that distance, and you can nudge the speed up or down if necessary. Also tucking. Tucking can add 10% more range.
Yeah keeping it constant is good for predicting range, until you hit that invisible headwind 😆 also, My back hurts reading your comment 😆 #notucklife
@@AdventuresonZero hold on to your youth!! 🤣
@NewZeroland 😂 👴
@@AdventuresonZero You ride a bike not made for tucking though... different riding posture. :)
@@IIARROWS tucking is beneficial on just about any bike, regardless of ergonomics. I don’t know anyone that tucks just because it feels good on the bike 😆
Generally following hypermiling rules. Accelerate slowly. Drive slowly, coast, try not to have to stop. The crux on a bike is also not getting killed if you are pushing against the flow of traffic. Tire pressure is a big deal in cars. I would assume it is true here. Stay near the max your tires are allowed. Softness of tire compound would have an effect as well. But the trick is finding what you can stomach when you are forced to. On long straight highways I am often in the right lane being passed. Difference between 50 and 80 is huge on energy usage. Be interesting to understand the levels of effect body and arm position could have as well.
Great tips! I usually go +2 on PSI when on the highway, reduces rolling resistance.
That was a great video format 😁😁 Peter mckinnon??
Phwaps up, everybody!
Do you have a link to your helmet @ 1:16?🙂
amzn.to/4eElgGa
Allways Like Ur Content.
Me myself, i Drive a little Bonfire X in Germany. Great Motorcycle 🏍️👍🏻👌🏻
Danke!
It’s still interesting HD/LW didn’t put an optimal/BEST range option in the list of modes. Instead of the most compromising version of range, an actual “this is the absolute best setting for getting the longest range” mode.
Optimal/Best doesn't sell bikes though! that's like Best Buy putting their display TVs at 50% brightness.
@@AdventuresonZero generally, that would be true but we are talking about range anxiety and a potential way to address that concern with a certified mode. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but I’ve been using your 2 mode setting and when compared to their ‘range’ mode, it is obvious they didn’t take it seriously.
Nice! I think the dual custom mode thrives on LiveWire bikes, as I'm not sure what other makers have multiple custom modes. Even in those custom modes, you can still accelerate/decelerate to rapidly to take advantage of lower settings - rider behavior is one of the bigger factors in range optimization.
@@AdventuresonZero 3 Right? A, B, C.
@@xophere 3 Custom modes on the LW1, 2 on the S2 platform
how much difference in trip range has regen helped you compared to no regen?
Just depends on the terrain. In most cases, coasting will get you better range as you're not consuming any energy, but building up your own energy by rolling downhill. You will never regenerate more than what you're taking out, so its something good to use ONLY when you absolutely have to stop or slow down quickly, as that energy would be lost anyways.
Do you think riding on a Highway without regen on is Better? I have found I get better KW usage but only farely new to EV Bikes
No, it’s actually diminished returns at highway speeds. Regen is more effective at lower speeds (with an EV moto) than it is at higher speeds because you’ll never be able to put back in the amount you take out. Coasting is a better method at higher speeds because you won’t lose as much energy when you let off vs regen braking which does retain some energy, but you loose so much momentum in the process that it takes more to get back to cruising speed. That’s like filling a cup full of water, taking a big gulp then spitting out 90%, and then saying you’re drinking some water 😂
On highway your speed is constant, and you risk at braking too much if you let the regen do work. But in that case you either let the cruise control work, or really finely control the throttle to slow down the right amount.
If you slow down too much, you need to spend energy again when getting up to speed again.
I keep the regen max all the time and prefer to just regulate it with the throttle, or reducing speed changing the target of cruise control (depending on traffic condition and length of the road) so I don't have to change profile when I get to my exit.
Boost your ICE range with these 2 tips.
Yep!