Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins diesel FCA (fuel control actuator) replacement
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Best Cummins diesel diagnostics and DIY repair channel on the entire internet!
That was the best tutorial of a part replacement.. Torx size, torque specs 👍👍
2007 5.9 Cummins 412,XXX miles used to be a hotshot truck.
1 transmission
3 compressors
1 fca
She’s still trucking...Thank you sir
Thats alot of miles for sure.....great job on keeping her on the road!
Do you run any Diesel additives?
After watching your video I ordered a Bosch FCA for my '03 5.9 Cummins for about $140, the dealer wanted $750 to replace it. First they
wanted $4500 for a new CP3 pump. I appreciate your information. I am a regular customer of Geno's Garage. My symtoms were the same
as those you mentioned. I paid the dealer $203 for the diagnosis, but disagreed on the pump. The truck cranks fine, it will surge and switch off
ifyou turn hard on the steering.
LDS has mprop from $130..just bought one...they also have the cp3 injection pumps for a little over $800
You have the best videos on TH-cam. I don’t understand why you don’t have millions of subscribers
Thanks for the info I have also noticed the exhaust brake is not working all the time. Could this be related? Going to take the fca off and clean as you showed see if that makes any difference. Thank's for your help.
In case anyone is wondering, you don’t have to have a truck that is dying or has symptoms that extreme to replace this. My truck (04 5.9) surged at idle, but not badly. In fact I probably only noticed it because my truck is straight piped. It was a slow consistent surge at idle like a cam for lack of better words. My fuel rail pressure gauge reflected this surge by fluctuating from 5-7,000 psi at idle. I changed the fca today and the surge at idle disappeared, and most of the haze went away upon acceleration. Very happy with the results
Its one of those things that can difficult to diag....glad it worked for your issue and appreciate the feedback and the info about your situation. Many thanks.....make sure to subscribe
I have the P0001 code on my 15 ram 2500 and have been told its my fca that needs replacing. I wonder if this would fix my issue
i have a 2013 ram 3500 6.7 L and I have a wicked hesitation that feels like it wants to stall then picks up again normal could this be the fca or maby egr problem
Mine was surging at idle and the shop I use suggested pouring 5 small bottles of Supertech synthetic 2 stroke oil in there. If it was going to work it would do it within 100 miles. In 50 it was cured. I have a new one in the garage and am going to replace it as I've developed a slightly rough idle.
My fca tests just out of limits. First step in common rail code diagnosis. I hope that's all
I have a 2005 3500 5.9 what makes the fast idle kick in when cold cause sometimes it works then other times it doesn't when it doesn't work it vibrates and blue smoke out the exhaust give it a little fuel with the pedal it smooths out then runs good
2006 Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins. Key Ian on position clicking coming from the lift pump and the back of the injector pump. Tap it a few times and it stops looks like I need to do this diagnostic test
Have a 03 5.9l way over fuelling. Is it possible this fca is stuck open or maybe don't have power to it? Is there any information on how much voltage should be at the plug at maybe like ignition on but not cranking or running?
The fuel control actuator(solinoid) meters the fuel into the 3 pumping chambers in the CP3 depending on engine load. At 0 volts ( unplugged) it is fully opened. Applying volts via ecm meters fuel to pumping chambers.
You can test and old fca by applying power to the two spade terminals and seeing ports close however you may ruin a good unit. Remember the fca uses graduated power from the ecm for a variable opening .
+Power Wagon Thanks for that added info, much appreciated. I have had luck a few times in the past when I had a stuck injector and unplugged the FCA to max out fuel pressure to free the injector. Thanks again
+MotorCity Mechanic I write very few comments but look forward to doing more. Thanks to people like you I have learned a lot and I should give back to the forums.
Power Wagon Sharing the knowledge is what its al about. I certainly don't know everything and any additional information to help the viewers is greatly appreciated.
Freightliner
@@MotorCityMechanic when you unplug it for stuck injector, that's while the engine is off with key!?!
What's a good code reader for these 5.9 cummins trucks?
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 engine when I stop at a red light it has a hard time running when I’m running it on freeway it runs fine when I stop gives me the same problem
Great video! Thanks
Your welcome and let me tell you thank you for having watched. Make sure to subscribe!
I have a Dodge 3500 5.9 cummings, automatic trans. will be driving city or highway when engine will shut down with no power, still ideling rough but no power. Let it sit a few minutes and turning key on a few times and will run and will go back into a stall stage
My car shows P1048 only when truck gets a temp of 200 f minimum. Not when cold! It happens not always but a couple of times when driving and it stops with blinking the warning lamp. It seems to run always normal. Could this be a FCA Problem? Or any other idea?
Hey do you know what is the fca is supposed to read us pressure cuz mine is only reading 40 and I'm wondering if it's supposed to be higher than that my truck will not start and I'm checking it and that's what I'm seeing showing me 5000 lbs of fuel pressure but that regulator only shows 40 and it will not move from there inedia how much is supposed to be reading please
hey my dodge 2004 3500 5.9 turbo diesel can you be kind to give me an advice what happens when you start the truck whole cold it runs good but when it gets to the regular temperature when I am driving stop runing the motor and I turn back on on and runs but when I release the diesel pedal die on and I put on neutro and turn it back on and it runs until I release the pedal die again and so on do you know what it is the problem? I already replace the injection pump and throtter pressure sensor but not fix it, thanks for your advice in advance.
I heard that when replacing the FCA you should also replace the 3 bolts. Is it necessary to do so, if you've torqued them as per your video? Thanks!
I cant find any info on the bolts needing to be replaced....typically if it did then it would come with the replacement bolts. I would say there is no need....just torque the bolts and you will be fine. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
Hey David thanks for the video. I'm having problems with a PX8 CUMMINS ENGINE. Same situation , runs good as long as your on throttle but when it idles the engine shuts down. After seeing your video i went to the fca valve and noticed it was making a loud buzzing sound. almost like hairclippers. should it sound like that?
+Luxan Rogue I don't remember any noise from an FCA anytime that I have been checking one both then again I rarely have issues with one. Its a good possibility that there could be an issue with it. I assume its operation would be about the same as what I work on when compared to your PX8.
Dors rams 5.9 trans fits dodge dakota 2001 5.9 ???
How can I tell if I need to replace a fuel accelerator position sensor or the actuator?
I have a 2007 5.9 Cummins and the Issue on my truck is once the truck is warm up and driving once I stop and put it in neutral it will surge in RPMs.could this be the problem?
dont suppose yall could post a vid replacing that whole pump? I got a no start and the computer is showing for the secondary fuel pump.which me and the mechanic determined to be the cp3. even some tips would help?
thanks and great vid!
I will keep it in mind the next time I have to replace on. As far as tips....you need a small steering wheel style puller to pull the gear off the pump while the gear is still inside the timing cover and leave the puller installed so that it supports the gear when the pump is removed. Otherwise you have the pump bolts on the rear and the nut holding the gear to the pump. Make sure to subscribe
Please help. 06 5.9 idle gets stuck at 2000-2400 rpm when accelerating while in park (automatic) and rpm will not come down, no codes. If I put it on gear it will come down. Grid heater light is on all the time, not sure if it's related. No power loss, starts fine. Could it be the Fuel Actuator? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video
Your welcome! Appreciate the comment
Big fan of Gino's 👍👍👍
Have you ever seen a FCA make a 5.9 rattle more ?
No codes even if you check after the surging?
good day i have a question i have a ram 2500 25 5.9 cummings and got no power on the fuel pump that goes on the tank is it posible to bypass it with a relay kit because they say my is bad and because it has no relay or fuse for fuel pump i whant to know if is posibletimp
Thanks for the vid and heads up. I better get draining my fuel.
Your welcome Rick!
@@MotorCityMechanic I have a 2001 ram 3500 diesel and it constantly surging unless you step hard on the pedal and then stops surging. At idle the revs are unstable. Everytime i change the engine oil and filter i change the diesel fuel filter. I even dropped the tank to clean it along with all the lines but she continues to do it. I also replaced all of the grounds. I would love to fix this because i like these trucks a lot.
Have a 2001 5.9 24v same symptoms can't find a fca, i assume it doesn't have one. Any tips?
Replaced mine and my 2007 still lopes at computer high idle. If I bring rpm up with throttle pedal, it runs smooth.
Sounds like its going to need some in depth diag at this point.
MotorCity Mechanic all right. I got it into a heated shop, found high pressure bypass was leaking a little, replaced and it ran fine. Drive it home with no problems, had it plugged in, starts right up in 5 degrees, but you go to accelerate and rail pressure drops off. Been the reacurring problem. Runs fine when vehicle is warmed up but not when cold.
I’ve been noticing that when I start the truck after it has been sitting for a while it will start to surge while the grid heater is doing its thing then smooth out once the volts go back to 13 or 14. When I drive down the road I can put in reverse to park and notice that the engine is surging in reverse. Today I notice some buildup around the cp3, looked underneath, and noticed don’t some wetness. Could the cp3 or fca be the cause for what I am experiencing. FYI, I have two new batteries in which I’m ruling out as being a power issue and my truck is. A 2014 ram 2500
Mine is been doing the same. Did you ever found a fix?
shit that was a good video brother… love the personal tutorial vibe
I have an 08 6.7 cummins 6 speed and have been experiencing a stall and smoke when accelerating and rough idle. Is this FCA related or turbo related?
Hard to say just based on those symptoms alone. It would require some hands on diag to narrow the issue before replacing an expensive part.
Good video tkss
Thank you very much
I had the same issue Brian Lau had. I installed a fass pump, after installiation bleeding etc. I tried to start it got a no start just cranking. I removed the FCA and it started but very rough and a dead pedal. any thoughts? anyone? Im gonna buy a new FCA to replace it since mine made no rattle hen i shook it until i put some kroil in and shook it then i rattled.
did this ever fix it? same issue with fass pump
Great video like always
Thanks Daniel! Dont forget to subscribe
You got it!!👍
Daniel Ortiz thank you
You're welcome. Take care man
Daniel Ortiz you too!
Tengo un ram 4000 5.9 diésel ,tengo este codigo de falla p 0251 y p 0088 , ya cambie FCA, sensor de precion de riel, y valvula de alivio de riel, tambien mande revisar la bomba de combustible,
I got a intermittent P0148 code for a couple years now and went ahead with an aftermarket lift pump to see if that fixed it but it sure didn't. Power is lower now and truck smokes on acceleration especially pulling a trailer. It seems to get better the longer I drive it with barely any smoke unless I'm getting into it. Going to try the FCA clean and lube in the video. Any other things I should look for or try? I don't own a scanner but have access to one through a couple people. 07 5.9 stock
Did the FCA work?
@@treyhaberman No, it was injectors at 230k
I have an 05' 3500 with the 5.9 that is having similar problems. Only it happens when starting the motor. It will start fine and then after idling for a few seconds will either stall out or bog down and run rough for a few seconds before coming back up to idle. If it stalls out it starts right back up. If i throttle up for a minute, and then by the time i reach the end of the block it will start idling ok. And when I'm driving and push the clutch in to slow/stop for an intersection or something, the idle will drop down to 400-500 before catching itself and coming back to normal. And in the past couple days has started to feel like it wants to stutter when i take off from a stop. Just replaced the fuel filter, and the injectors only have about 15-20k miles on them. My research has pointed me to the FCA but i don't want to just throw parts at it hoping to get the right one. Does this sound like it might be a FCA issue?
I'm going through similar issues with an 03. The MPROP/FCA I have ordered is arriving today. I will let you know how it goes.
@@josephlangs8781 please do, thank you.
When torquing the bolts. Do you use a 1/4" drive torque wrench or a 3/8" drive torque wrench with that T25?
Chris Farris morning Chris......it really doesn't matter which size you use as long as it's in the same torque range and what ever fits down in the area. I prefer 3/8 most if the time because you can use it for more items and usually they may have a higher range for other items as well. Thanks for the question. Make sure to subscribe and check out my other videos
Is the fca a common problem with the 6.7 too ?, i have the same problem with mine its a 2013 , the surge seems to get worse when its put in drive or reverse once i hit the throttle it goes away , it was on and off now its doing a lot more often Thank you
What fixed your problem? I have 04 that runs away too and idles rough. Lmk
I installed an airdog lift pump and that fix my problem
Iv got a 2004 Cummins while driving my grid heater light comes on chimes 10 times stays on for a bit then shuts off, I get code p1223 LEAK DETECTION BASED ON QUANTITY BALANCE... Any ideas? Fuel rail pressure stays ok.
07 5.9 with the same exact issue. was happening every time I broke over bombi pass and started down the other side of the mountain
Do you have to get the truck to operating temp to insure it was the fca? Or should the surge stop even at cold idle
Temp doesnt seem to make a difference on the once I have seen the issue on. Thats what I have come across but anything is possible.
Good video thank you I got a 2006 Dodge truck like that so I might need that someday
You never know.....you might one day.
Hello I've got a 2003 ram 2500 Cummins diesel 59 with automatic my truck got to running bad and smoking a little bit and I pulled up at my cousin's after it had a couple spells and where I had to pump the throttle a few times and try to keep it running and I made it on over to my cousins and it seem to be running okay and as I was idling up in the driveway it died first thing I do is change take the fuel filter off it looks like brand new I just changed it a couple of months before that and I can never got the lines bled to get it to start well it was we didn't have no power sluggish hard start taking you know cranking over quite a bit before it would start so I put a lot of pressure gauge on it and it's not pumping any fuel pressure at all zero pounds of pressure so I put an inline electric fuel pump on it cuz I figure some fuel pressure is better than no fuel pressure and I don't trying to keep from knocking out my injection pump cuz I was assuming that the injection pump was suffering the fuel out of the tank cuz it would only run bad when the getting low fuel that wouldn't mess up don't get down to about a quarter of tank of fuel and start missing and smoking and spitting and sputtering so now I've got a new fuel pump on it a fast lift pump and it made it run a lot better but they're still times when it gets low fuel that it spits and spiders and sometimes it sluggish it don't respond good when you throttle on it other times it does it runs great like it's got a lot of power sometimes and then sometimes it don't but when it gets low fuel it spits and spiders some I have taken the unit out of the tank which is where the lift pump the fuel pump was our is that I put in it years ago when the factory lift pump went out and I put a fast wheel pump up back on it on the motor but it is sucking fuel through that existing fuel pump is in the tank I took that in and out cleaned it up but it still runs bad from time to time it only seems to run bad when it gets low fuel and I'm wondering since I've run it with the fuel pump completely out if it might have messed something else up like the fuel control actuator since I've had the truck I put one fuel pump or just actually makes the second fuel pump I put on it it's had one set of injectors put in it and it's had a high pressure relief I'll put on it one time and I've had the truck for like 17 years I've personally put 200,000 miles on this truck this truck currently has 287,000 mi on it and I'm trying to get it dependable again any suggestions on what I should change next
I heard if they are broken they do not make noise when you shake them
Thats possible.....wish there was a more scientific method but I guess thats the best method unless you have more to try and to monitor the pressures. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe.
I just change mine out and new or old did not rattle. But man it made a big difference.. I can’t believe a little FCA made that huge difference
i tried replacing mine, and somehow the bottom one got stripped, any ideas on how to get this bolt out?
I have the exact issue right now as we speak. Any solutions on how to get it out?
I have a 2003 cummins and I believe this is my problem. The truck has no power and won’t go over 2000rpm’s stock but when I turn up my edge tuner, it surges and runs like crap when I give it a lot of throttle. Truck will run fine if I baby it tho. Any suggestions? I’ve tried taking the fca out and cleaning it with wd-40 but no change.
Truck starts right up and idles fine. Never stalls. Just no power on stock and with the tuner turned up it surges and runs terrible when I give it a lot of throttle
@@trentenfaranda9590how do you fixed it?
any idea why my grid heater light will randomly ding 9 times and keep the light on for 2 minutes then it shuts off?
I havent come across this issue before. Not sure what the cause could be. The service info doesnt make any mention. Have you had it checked for codes yet?
Yeah no codes or anything
For now....make sure to check all the intake heater and intake heater relay connections.
Treston Hagen hey man did you ever find what the problem was with this?
My 05 today gave me some trouble running about 60mph. It shuttered and then died. Gave me a trouble code of P0088. Rail psi high bank 1 Did some reading online people said it could be the fca does that sound right
I have same code and trouble. How do u fixed it?
@@elform4284
I replaced the sensor on the injector pump with one from cummins
I have a 2006 2500 no check engine light when pulling up to stop light or stop sign hit the brakes and it wants to keep going idle goes up a little and shakes a little could you the fca be the problem it doesn’t turn off or have trouble starting starts right up
Jose Carreon sounds like the torque converter is staying locked up. I recommend getting that checked and replaced it need be. I have seen that a few times. Make sure to subscribe
MotorCity Mechanic if it is that would the transmission need to be rebuilt or what would you recommend I’m planning on keeping my truck
Thanks I will have it checked out
Jose Carreon just depends. Sometimes just the torque converter is needed. Also the number of miles may play a part in that as well. I recommend having a good trans shop look it over to be sure
MotorCity Mechanic okay thank you if it was the torque converter it would do it all the time today I have been driving the truck and hasn’t done it so far crazy truck is running normal
I have a 2008 6.7 L Cummins with 155k. It has a rattle or gas engine detonation sound around 2000 RPMs when accelerating. Does this sound like a symptom of the FCA? I have not done any Diagnostics yet. I did however adjust the valves recently and set them at .10 & .20 just to rule that out.
Great informative video btw
Hey Jonathan.....I havent come across a noise like that yet. I dont think the FCA is the issue either. The way to rule the FCA out is to monitor the fuel pressure when this is happening to see if there is a change in the pressure when it happens. Wish I had more info for you but I dont at the moment.....just nothing that I have come across so far.
Thanks again Jonathan and make sure to subscribe. Enjoy the Labor Day weekend.
MotorCity Mechanic
Thank you. Going to install a fuel rail pressure gauge. And also test lift pump pressure and volume.
Sounds like a plan. Only one I had with an odd engine sound actually had a broken valve spring....only one I even saw on a 6.7 and havent seen one since either.
IM GOING THOUGHT something like this right now ... 2003 5.9 cummins .. after over an hour drive home , getting off the freeway slowing down to the light my truck just died .. now i have crank no start . ordered a FASS 150 and installed today .still same problem . pulled fca & gave it a good shake .. didn't hear anything moving inside !! cleaned and reinstalled .. crank no start ... please help if u can
+Brian Lau WD -40 did not work for me
+Brian Lau Hey Brian.....the best way I have seen to check the FCA is viewing the data with a scanner and seeing what the fuel pressure sensor is reading when it happens. Usually needs around 5000 psi before it will start. Any leak in the fuel system with external or internal can cause a low pressure and no start. Also making sure to check the lift pump flow is the starting point I recommend. Further testing will require some special tools and fittings to test flow and also to block off injectors if need be. I rough way to check the lift pump flow is to find the line going from the fuel filter housing to the high pressure pump and unhook it from the high pressure pump. You need to catch the fuel that comes out into a container. You then need to bump the key to the start position and leave the key in the run position. This will cause the lift pump to run for about 10 seconds. Then you need to measure how much fuel was collected in the container. We need to measure milliliters so you need to get you a measuring cup from somewhere like the kitchen department at Walmart.
Hi guys. I have lots of lift pressure but CP3 is pumping just drops really. I tried volume test with FCA plugged in and unplugged. I do have a lot of fuel coming out of the return line on the CP3 pump. Could this be a sign of a bad cascade over flow valve? or could FCA been blocked off? Truck started and shut down and won't restart. Rail pressure on scan tool showed 20 - 40psi. Haven't been able to get the FCA off yet for inspection. Any ideas. Did you figure it out Brian? Thanks for videos guys, big help.
i had a new cp3 installed and the truck was great .. 2,000-3,000 miles later found out i had 2 bad injectors . i was getting hard starts when that problem was going on.. hope this helps
Yes it may. Is it probable that the leaking injectors caused your CP3 to overwork and fail? I have CP3 off and new one on the way. But the guys remaining these in Iowa informed me that they generally don't just blow up. More of a slow wear down and rail pressure loss. Which kinda has me scared something caused it and could ruin the new one. Were your bad injectors passing extra fuel? I'll have to get a good scan tool on there I guess and check what ECM is commanding vs actually if thats possible? Or try to perform leak down test. Thanks Brian.
The bolts on my actuator are seized on, and one of them is stripped out -_-
Algien sabe porque no haceleta 1996 dodgue cummnis
My '03 Dodge cummins, H/O, when starting off from a stop with normal operating temperature, the engine falters or stumbles, I the press the accellerator down about half way and it quickly jumps off and doesn't miss anymore, it has full power. My lift pump is working. Sometime ago when I bought fuel at Walmart which is really clean fuel, I finally noticed it was B20 as stated on a small white sticker on the pump. At this time, from a cold start the engine would not idle, it would almost shut off and at times it would shut off. I started using Shell because most of the pumps, all Raceway and Racetrack were selling B20, now these stations are selling B5, only 5% Bio. I don't have that problem any more by using Shell, but I have the stumbling problem from the start off. I can put Diesel Kleen in the tank, 8 to 10 ounces and my problem mostly clears up, so long as I use the DieselKleen. I belong to the TDR, Turbo diesel Register and buy my filters from Geno's and change them and the oil at 10,000 miles. Could this be a faulty FCA?
Did you ever find the issue you were having? My 03 has developed HArd starting, stumble ( not dead pedal) and when cold starts and dies , the warmer the temp out side the less it starts and dies. BUt Idle is Rough n claddering till engine is warm.
Alright i have an issue i got a 2003 dodge 2500 5.9 24 valve trying to figure out an issue when i start it it likes to drop rpms to about 600 then jump to about 1k until i drive it and when its idling it has a miss sound but its not constant maybe every 30 seconds when i drive it and im at a redlight and it turns green i give it throttle and it doesnt move for about 3 seconds then it takes off leaving a cloud of coal the truck is stock no tuner any feedback will help
@@Clarksbarn Did you ever figure this out? I seem to be having the same issue.
Have you seen these cause a no start before?
Personally I havent.