Not mentioned but it will lower factory understeer and increase turn in and introduce a slight amount of steering and braking transitional oversteer. In a good way
So tighten the end link to the strut first then lower the car to adjust the length so it slides freely into the sway bar. then tighten the jam nuts. Did I get that right?
Beefing up the RSW to obtain 'neutral' has alway been my fav upgrade/mod Is it true that if you went with the softer setting, it's as if the bar acts 1mm thinner?
Really disappointing that those RSB bushing don't come equipped with a grease zerk (that's gonna be a squeeker) and that the end links are so wonky to adjust (not a fan). This video is old AF, but did you guys stick with this setup on your project car, or did you go another way? I'm looking for a DD setup that I can maintain and dial-in. I love all this content, even if it's a few years old. Much appreciated!
Hello! One of my bushing came without the slit on it. It doesn't seem to fit over the end, would it be ok to cut my own slit in the same spot as the other bushing? Great video by the way thank you!
Hopefully you guys are still active, the front sway bar keeps hitting the sub frame and I have done everything to fix it do you guys have any solutions?
Did the rear end links have to be inserted and tightened when the vehicle is on the ground as well? or is it okay to mount and tighten while up in the air?
You will want to torque down the end links while the suspension is LOADED, and on the ground. A nice trick is to use Rhino Ramps or similar so you can still reach under there while it's all preloaded.
We have replaced the front since this video. Just not at the same time. The front requires you to take off the subframe which is much more in depth than the rear. Many people only do rear sway bars anyway. It sort of helps the car rotate better.
@@EdgeAutosport It would be really helpful to have a video of the front sway bar installation. You do a really good job with the installation videos; it would at least give everyone an idea of whats involved so we can decide if it's worth dropping the subframe, what to watch out for if we do it.
I plan on lowering my car, not sure If I'm gonna with with eibach pro, eibach sport line or some sort of coilover; anyway, would you reccomend a 22mm or 26mm for the RSB? I have a perrin strut bar and from what I've seen I'm better off leaving the front SB stock, if anything I might do some front links. I've heard a 26mm RSB with no front SB can cause a decent bit of oversteer. I want to be able to daily it comfortably but still be able to carve through the corners
I would suggest doing the RSB first to see if you like the feel. If you feel it oversteers too much for you, you can always stiffen up the front after that. No rule saying you can't do one at a time. The 22mm is definitely a good upgrade over stock. Maybe that's what you shoot for to keep it a little tame in your case.
How did you take off the front endlinks ? Was it just a 14mm or did you have to use an Allen key as well. I tried a 14mm socket and was having tons of trouble
I used a wratcheting wrench and an alan bit through the wrench. If you don't have a wratcheting wrench, you can just use an open ended wrench and an alan tool, it just takes more time.
@@EdgeAutosport I've seen the HKS ride height adjuster in the rear in both orientations. How yours is set up in the video and in others, the opposite way.
In order to hear the dialogue you have to turn up the volume. Then your bumper music kicks in and practically blows my speakers. In order hear all of the dialogue it requires the volume to be constantly adjusted.
Not mentioned but it will lower factory understeer and increase turn in and introduce a slight amount of steering and braking transitional oversteer. In a good way
Nice video! Have you guys seen our A.L.K? KCA467 is the part number.
For the front end links do you use a washer on both sides of the tie rod? Cause I got 8 not 4 and stock ones don’t even have washers
Will I need to do any tuning if I install a sway bar and can I install one without doing anything to the front end?
I wish you have video also on installing the front
I am having problems where the bolt that holds the strut is hitting the en link when it’s very sharp turns any help to this?
So tighten the end link to the strut first then lower the car to adjust the length so it slides freely into the sway bar. then tighten the jam nuts. Did I get that right?
Beefing up the RSW to obtain 'neutral' has alway been my fav upgrade/mod
Is it true that if you went with the softer setting, it's as if the bar acts 1mm thinner?
There's no way to actually know that. A softer setting definitely allows more flex and roll, just like a thinner bar would.
Really disappointing that those RSB bushing don't come equipped with a grease zerk (that's gonna be a squeeker) and that the end links are so wonky to adjust (not a fan). This video is old AF, but did you guys stick with this setup on your project car, or did you go another way? I'm looking for a DD setup that I can maintain and dial-in. I love all this content, even if it's a few years old. Much appreciated!
Hello! One of my bushing came without the slit on it. It doesn't seem to fit over the end, would it be ok to cut my own slit in the same spot as the other bushing? Great video by the way thank you!
As long as it's a clean cut, it doesn't sound like a terrible idea. You sure you can slide it over the ends with some of the grease?
Hopefully you guys are still active, the front sway bar keeps hitting the sub frame and I have done everything to fix it do you guys have any solutions?
Did the rear end links have to be inserted and tightened when the vehicle is on the ground as well? or is it okay to mount and tighten while up in the air?
You will want to torque down the end links while the suspension is LOADED, and on the ground. A nice trick is to use Rhino Ramps or similar so you can still reach under there while it's all preloaded.
Do you guys carry the front endlinks?
I need to replace my endlinks but my civic is bagged would it be any different when messing with parts near them compared to springs or coils
You guys only replaced the rear? what about the front?
We have replaced the front since this video. Just not at the same time. The front requires you to take off the subframe which is much more in depth than the rear. Many people only do rear sway bars anyway. It sort of helps the car rotate better.
@@EdgeAutosport any additional/noticable/signifficant benefits to adding the front Whiteline swaybar?
@@EdgeAutosport It would be really helpful to have a video of the front sway bar installation. You do a really good job with the installation videos; it would at least give everyone an idea of whats involved so we can decide if it's worth dropping the subframe, what to watch out for if we do it.
@@kurt1608 front swaybar is definitely worth it, did it on my 10th gen accord. It turns threw corners woth alot more control and alot less sway.
I plan on lowering my car, not sure If I'm gonna with with eibach pro, eibach sport line or some sort of coilover; anyway, would you reccomend a 22mm or 26mm for the RSB? I have a perrin strut bar and from what I've seen I'm better off leaving the front SB stock, if anything I might do some front links. I've heard a 26mm RSB with no front SB can cause a decent bit of oversteer. I want to be able to daily it comfortably but still be able to carve through the corners
I would suggest doing the RSB first to see if you like the feel. If you feel it oversteers too much for you, you can always stiffen up the front after that. No rule saying you can't do one at a time. The 22mm is definitely a good upgrade over stock. Maybe that's what you shoot for to keep it a little tame in your case.
@@EdgeAutosport thanks man!
7:28
Do this!!!!!
How did you take off the front endlinks ? Was it just a 14mm or did you have to use an Allen key as well. I tried a 14mm socket and was having tons of trouble
I used a wratcheting wrench and an alan bit through the wrench. If you don't have a wratcheting wrench, you can just use an open ended wrench and an alan tool, it just takes more time.
What is the proper orientation of the rear spring perch? I've seen people do it in both directions. Does it matter which way you do it?
Can you clarify your question? There is only one orientation. The rear spring perch is the lower control arm.
@@EdgeAutosport I've seen the HKS ride height adjuster in the rear in both orientations. How yours is set up in the video and in others, the opposite way.
In order to hear the dialogue you have to turn up the volume. Then your bumper music kicks in and practically blows my speakers. In order hear all of the dialogue it requires the volume to be constantly adjusted.
What?
i have the whiteline rear sway bar 22mm, can i use the stock endlinks for the fk civic?
You can use it, but it might not be quite as effective.
@@EdgeAutosport Thanks for the Reply 👍
Yeah boiiiiiiis