Hey Johnny, she's coming along quite good. Can't wait to see her finished! I'm really getting used to seeing you every Friday, to me it has become something of a "playdate" on a regular basis 🙂Hope you had a nice Memorial Day weekend, my friend!!!
Hi Mike, that's really kind of you to say. I think she's coming along well too, really pleased how the paint work has turned out. Thanks so much for watching, take care and have a great weekend. Johnny
Hey John, those metallic craft paints just blow me away. I had them for a long time and never used them until I built the 1958 Aurora Gold Knight. It kicked butt on the chain mail. I'm so sold on these paints now, I didn't do the Knight gold, did him in the Model Master Metalizer buffing steel. BUT I am groovin' on those acrylics, plus the way I build, these paints can take a beating with the solvent based enamels and artist oils I put on top of them used to enhance my builds. That Tamiya Corsair is such a good kit with outstanding box art. Keep the glue ah' flowin' , build on bud. Bill G.
I couldn't agree with you more Bill G! I love these craft paints. I get wonderful results with metallics as well as the standard paints. I've only had one occasion where the paint didn't adhere properly, but I think that was more my fault than the paints. I have been pretty aggressive with them from time to time and they never fail me. And your right again about this being a great kit, the detail is fantastic for a kit as old as this one. Thanks so much for watching, take care and model on buddy! Johnny
Thanks Micheal👍I was just trying to figure out how to hold onto the model without getting my fingers in the way, lol! It worked out well, I think. Thanks for watching mate, take care and model on! Johnny
Hi Johnny, the F4 Corsair is looking outstanding, you have done a excellent job, looking forward to the next update soon, best regards from Australia, Les
It looks really good now Johnny, I love the way that the colour has developed since last week and the addition of the decals has just blended everything together very nicely. I'm very much looking forward to the weathering next week and the final assembly. Your wire jig is a really fantastic idea and seems to work perfectly with the kit.
Thanks Gerry👍the blue is just light enough that we can see the roundel of these decals, got lucky there, lol. As to the wire, it was one of those light bulb events, it just came to me that there was an easier way to paint this thing and keep my fingers off the finish and still be able to sit the model down to cure. I have seen other modelers us a dowl in the nose of the fuselage before, but then you have the problem when it comes to sitting the model down. Anyway, thanks so much for watching, take care and model on my friend!
Lot's of detail painting and nice decal application, nice move to cut the decal in the section of the panel lines. This is a small detail that adds a lot to the final appearance! Thanks for sharing Johnny, take care and keep up the good work my friend!
I know Drew, they are really great paints. If memory serves me, I believe they were made by Testors, why it was discontinued doesn't make any sense to me. Everyone that has used them have had only good things to say. Thanks for watching, take care and have a great weekend. Johnny
@@Drewsmodels Ah that's right, same thing happened to my favorite craft paints, Anita, which was bought by Crafter's Collection. I know most modelers don't care about craft paints, lol, but I do because they are so inexpensive, and I find them to be just as good as those expensive paints.
Great question Tud Row, I did a little search on them and found that they are recognition lights. I didn't however see exactly how they were used. Presumably, and this is just speculation on my part, they were used so that the navy task force wouldn't shoot them down while trying to land on an aircraft carrier in low light conditions, since these planes were intended to be carrier-based planes. More investigation is required on them to figure out how they were used, which, admittedly I haven't done. The same lights can be found on the P51D and I'm guessing other US planes as well from that period. However, these lights are not present on the SB2U or the F6F, which leads me to think that they were deleted later in the war. Not sure about other aircraft of the allies during WWII. I hope someone else out there can clarify in more detail about these lights. Hope this helps, take care and model on my friend! Johnny
@@hillbillymodeling If I am not mistaken (and I could be) those lights are for recognition, and they changed position depending on the order of the day, so when you color them the position of the colors isn't important. It's like a password of the day done with lights. later on with advances in tech other methods were developed for recognition purposes. By the way, this was TOLD to me, so make sure I'm right. Bill G.
@@SpinZMaster Hi Bill G, I was able to find that they were recognition lights but no info on how they were used, nothing official, just on one of those forums. It makes sense that only one color would be used at a time, more than that and it could get confusing to distinguish what the signal is. I checked some other kits I have in my stash and the SB2 didn't have them nor the F6F, but the P51B does, not sure if the P51D ever had them. So, I would guess that you are right about them being deleted from later aircraft for more modern recognition equipment. Thanks for the info, every little bit counts. Take care buddy! Johnny
John, just watching your decal application, you know I've been teaching modeling for a while now, and (No Attack Here) but you just did the worst thing you could do. I don't mean this to be mean, I mean it to be informative. So by letting that decal soak in the water for such a long time the possibility of wicking away much of the adhesive that helps the decal adhere to the surface is being diluted by all the water around it. And if it floats free that is even worse! This is why some decals silver, especially like "No Step" "No Hand Hold" and so on, they are so small they don't have a lot of adhesive on them anyhow. It may be of benefit to watch my decal segment on PMCMP, really when you see the logic applied, as to decals adhering on a surface. Even the decal manufactures have their instructions (Not so correct), and forget the paper towel deal, terrible advice. Now not to brag...but...you know how some of Hasegawa's decals can be a bit thick, well I used kit decals on my 1/32 KI-84 Frank using my improved method of decaling. My modeling Sensai Hal Marshman came over to see the build, this guy is a true Master at aircraft construction, I've known him since I was 8, anyhow while looking at the build he replied, "You hot little (shirt), you painted on the meatballs, good for you" When I told him I did this with my new method of decaling he almost didn't believe me especially with Hasa's decals" SOOOOOOO John please stop, although if it's working for you ROCK ON, maybe you're the mystery decaling dude that fights against the evils of adhesive. (If so, you do realize you're gonna need a costume) Just trying to help (Myself ?). And the blue on the bottom wing is just outstanding, panel lines are great, very nice. Hopefully still your Bud...Bill G.
Hi Bill G! Thanks so much for the advice on decals. Now I'm no superhero, that's for sure, 😉so I'll leave my cape in the closet for now, LOL!!! But I seldom experience the silvering issues with my builds. Maybe I'm just lucky, but timing is of the essence here, I think. I only soak the decal as long as it takes to achieve decal movement on the backing paper, which is what I believe the manufacturer intended, not sure on that of course. So, checking it often is a must. I generally give it about 20 seconds and then check it, and if it's not moving, I'll give it another 10 seconds and check it again. With really small decals I try to check them sooner. When it's ready it will move. I don't recommend walking away from this process because if left in the water too long it will detach from the backing paper and wick away most, if not all, of the adhesive. For me, I know that I have it right when I can feel the "slimy adhesive" on my finger when I check it, and then it's go time. Now this is something that I haven't really emphasized in my videos before, but you bring up a really good point there. As to using the paper towel to drain off the excess water, it's not really necessary with large decals, but I find being consistent with my process gives me better results, and with the small ones it tends to float them too much to get them in position. And those small decals really like to orient themself in the least desirable orientation, 🤣. In my mind, with my limited experience, and I'm not a master modeler such as yourself by any stretch of the imagination😎, the capillary action tends to hold the adhesive under the decal until we slide it off onto the model. Providing of that we haven't left it in the water too long. Of course, all of this depends on the manufacturer of the decals and the amount of adhesive on the backing paper as well as the thickness, or density, of the packing paper that has to absorb the water before releasing the decal. All that being said, which is exhausting to think about, just checking the readiness of the decal to release is the only sure way to know when it's ready to apply. I also use the Micro Set which helps to soften the decal from the underside and settle it onto the painted surface, which I'm sure really helps. (I think). All that said, and I know it's a lot, I really respect your professional observations. For some reason I haven't been able to find your TH-cam channel and check out your videos, I'm sure I'm just not typing in the correct search there. I'll try to find your video on decals and see what you have there. Never worry my friend, I don't think you're being mean, offering advice is the best means to show respect and friendship, and highly value yours!!! Johnny
@@hillbillymodeling Ya, Micro Sol and Set are essential along with good BLOTTING, get all that water and (the deadly culprit) air out. Sol allows the decal to be slid into position and Set does exactly that. Do you have Solvaset ? You build way too well to have something so essential like decals bite you on the kit. Try "Modeling with Bill Grigg" or "Bill Grigg on TH-cam", but PMCMP should work. The show is actually called "Simple Groundwork And Diorama Techniques", but not listed as so. There are two episodes where I do decals, the first one is the Old School way and the second is my new method. You want the New Method, I'll try to find the # of the show where I do the New Deal and let you know. Being in the entertainment field since the age of 16 I learned how essential reviewing old shows is to producing a better new show. So I'm watching the Old School way and it struck me that I was teaching this decal method, not really wrong, but thinking about all the decal problems I have encountered with my students I thought, "There has got to be a better and more logical way to apply decals". Everyone I have taught this too raves about how much better the decal sticks to the subject and achieves that painted on look. The new way does take MUCH longer to get the image to move on the backing paper but it is so much worth it. When the chemical mixture with Set and adhesive are in sink, and NOT diluted, you get a better stick to your surface. I'm so glad you looked at the comment as a teaching method and not an attack. So I'm off to work on my kit bash of the Millennium Falcon with a 1/48 Russian Frogfoot, it was a cutting apart , parts fittin' nightmare, I'll be detail painting for the next thousand years, without a bathroom break, thank the gods I'm Coast Guard and good in BIG WATER, my back teeth are floatin', blub blub. All right brother keep up the good work your stuff looks great. Bill G. (P.S. - if you were not really good at what you do I would not watch) !
Looking good, Johnny. Can't wait to see the finished work. Have a wonderful weekend.
Thanks Jimmy, she's coming along nicely I think. Thanks so much for tuning in buddy, hope to see you Friday! Have a great weekend. Johnny
Hey Johnny, she's coming along quite good. Can't wait to see her finished! I'm really getting used to seeing you every Friday, to me it has become something of a "playdate" on a regular basis 🙂Hope you had a nice Memorial Day weekend, my friend!!!
Hi Mike, that's really kind of you to say. I think she's coming along well too, really pleased how the paint work has turned out. Thanks so much for watching, take care and have a great weekend. Johnny
Good job old man!
Thanks Jeff, it's coming together. Enjoy your weekend! Johnny
Hey John, those metallic craft paints just blow me away. I had them for a long time and never used them until I built the 1958 Aurora Gold Knight. It kicked butt on the chain mail. I'm so sold on these paints now, I didn't do the Knight gold, did him in the Model Master Metalizer buffing steel. BUT I am groovin' on those acrylics, plus the way I build, these paints can take a beating with the solvent based enamels and artist oils I put on top of them used to enhance my builds. That Tamiya Corsair is such a good kit with outstanding box art. Keep the glue ah' flowin' , build on bud. Bill G.
I couldn't agree with you more Bill G! I love these craft paints. I get wonderful results with metallics as well as the standard paints. I've only had one occasion where the paint didn't adhere properly, but I think that was more my fault than the paints. I have been pretty aggressive with them from time to time and they never fail me. And your right again about this being a great kit, the detail is fantastic for a kit as old as this one. Thanks so much for watching, take care and model on buddy! Johnny
Good job mate…..like the ‘homemade’ wire stand….I’m going to give that a crack…regards Mick.
Thanks Micheal👍I was just trying to figure out how to hold onto the model without getting my fingers in the way, lol! It worked out well, I think. Thanks for watching mate, take care and model on! Johnny
That was 4 respect!
Of course,, 😉
Hi Johnny, the F4 Corsair is looking outstanding, you have done a excellent job, looking forward to the next update soon, best regards from Australia, Les
Thanks Les👍she's coming along, so far, I'm pleased with the results. Thanks so much for watching, take care and enjoy your weekend my friend!! Johnny
It looks really good now Johnny, I love the way that the colour has developed since last week and the addition of the decals has just blended everything together very nicely. I'm very much looking forward to the weathering next week and the final assembly. Your wire jig is a really fantastic idea and seems to work perfectly with the kit.
Thanks Gerry👍the blue is just light enough that we can see the roundel of these decals, got lucky there, lol. As to the wire, it was one of those light bulb events, it just came to me that there was an easier way to paint this thing and keep my fingers off the finish and still be able to sit the model down to cure. I have seen other modelers us a dowl in the nose of the fuselage before, but then you have the problem when it comes to sitting the model down. Anyway, thanks so much for watching, take care and model on my friend!
Thanks for sharing looking great! Have an awesome weekend eh! ✌Canada✌
Thanks for watching James, enjoy your weekend as well my friend. Johnny
Great job, really?Like the idea of holding the airplane with that wiyes, always can't wait to see your next video.Keep up the good work
Hey Raymond, really appreciate your kind words my friend. Enjoy your weekend! Johnny
Lot's of detail painting and nice decal application, nice move to cut the decal in the section of the panel lines. This is a small detail that adds a lot to the final appearance! Thanks for sharing Johnny, take care and keep up the good work my friend!
Thank you so much George😀Tamiya has done a wonderful job with this kit. I highly recommend it. Take care and model on my friend. Johnny
Beautiful work, Johnny! I have a few MM Acrylic paints left. I really like them. Too bad they went extinct.
I know Drew, they are really great paints. If memory serves me, I believe they were made by Testors, why it was discontinued doesn't make any sense to me. Everyone that has used them have had only good things to say. Thanks for watching, take care and have a great weekend. Johnny
@@hillbillymodeling Rustoleum bought Testors and immediately destroyed Model Masters division.
@@Drewsmodels Ah that's right, same thing happened to my favorite craft paints, Anita, which was bought by Crafter's Collection. I know most modelers don't care about craft paints, lol, but I do because they are so inexpensive, and I find them to be just as good as those expensive paints.
Great job on this war bird . Does any one know what tthe 3 lights on the bottom of the wing was used for ?
Great question Tud Row, I did a little search on them and found that they are recognition lights. I didn't however see exactly how they were used. Presumably, and this is just speculation on my part, they were used so that the navy task force wouldn't shoot them down while trying to land on an aircraft carrier in low light conditions, since these planes were intended to be carrier-based planes. More investigation is required on them to figure out how they were used, which, admittedly I haven't done. The same lights can be found on the P51D and I'm guessing other US planes as well from that period. However, these lights are not present on the SB2U or the F6F, which leads me to think that they were deleted later in the war. Not sure about other aircraft of the allies during WWII. I hope someone else out there can clarify in more detail about these lights. Hope this helps, take care and model on my friend! Johnny
@@hillbillymodeling Thank you Sir . And congratulation on the great build.
@@hillbillymodeling If I am not mistaken (and I could be) those lights are for recognition, and they changed position depending on the order of the day, so when you color them the position of the colors isn't important. It's like a password of the day done with lights. later on with advances in tech other methods were developed for recognition purposes. By the way, this was TOLD to me, so make sure I'm right. Bill G.
@@SpinZMaster Hi Bill G, I was able to find that they were recognition lights but no info on how they were used, nothing official, just on one of those forums. It makes sense that only one color would be used at a time, more than that and it could get confusing to distinguish what the signal is. I checked some other kits I have in my stash and the SB2 didn't have them nor the F6F, but the P51B does, not sure if the P51D ever had them. So, I would guess that you are right about them being deleted from later aircraft for more modern recognition equipment. Thanks for the info, every little bit counts. Take care buddy! Johnny
John, just watching your decal application, you know I've been teaching modeling for a while now, and (No Attack Here) but you just did the worst thing you could do. I don't mean this to be mean, I mean it to be informative. So by letting that decal soak in the water for such a long time the possibility of wicking away much of the adhesive that helps the decal adhere to the surface is being diluted by all the water around it. And if it floats free that is even worse! This is why some decals silver, especially like "No Step" "No Hand Hold" and so on, they are so small they don't have a lot of adhesive on them anyhow. It may be of benefit to watch my decal segment on PMCMP, really when you see the logic applied, as to decals adhering on a surface. Even the decal manufactures have their instructions (Not so correct), and forget the paper towel deal, terrible advice. Now not to brag...but...you know how some of Hasegawa's decals can be a bit thick, well I used kit decals on my 1/32 KI-84 Frank using my improved method of decaling. My modeling Sensai Hal Marshman came over to see the build, this guy is a true Master at aircraft construction, I've known him since I was 8, anyhow while looking at the build he replied, "You hot little (shirt), you painted on the meatballs, good for you" When I told him I did this with my new method of decaling he almost didn't believe me especially with Hasa's decals" SOOOOOOO John please stop, although if it's working for you ROCK ON, maybe you're the mystery decaling dude that fights against the evils of adhesive. (If so, you do realize you're gonna need a costume) Just trying to help (Myself ?). And the blue on the bottom wing is just outstanding, panel lines are great, very nice. Hopefully still your Bud...Bill G.
Hi Bill G! Thanks so much for the advice on decals. Now I'm no superhero, that's for sure, 😉so I'll leave my cape in the closet for now, LOL!!! But I seldom experience the silvering issues with my builds. Maybe I'm just lucky, but timing is of the essence here, I think. I only soak the decal as long as it takes to achieve decal movement on the backing paper, which is what I believe the manufacturer intended, not sure on that of course. So, checking it often is a must. I generally give it about 20 seconds and then check it, and if it's not moving, I'll give it another 10 seconds and check it again. With really small decals I try to check them sooner. When it's ready it will move. I don't recommend walking away from this process because if left in the water too long it will detach from the backing paper and wick away most, if not all, of the adhesive. For me, I know that I have it right when I can feel the "slimy adhesive" on my finger when I check it, and then it's go time. Now this is something that I haven't really emphasized in my videos before, but you bring up a really good point there. As to using the paper towel to drain off the excess water, it's not really necessary with large decals, but I find being consistent with my process gives me better results, and with the small ones it tends to float them too much to get them in position. And those small decals really like to orient themself in the least desirable orientation, 🤣. In my mind, with my limited experience, and I'm not a master modeler such as yourself by any stretch of the imagination😎, the capillary action tends to hold the adhesive under the decal until we slide it off onto the model. Providing of that we haven't left it in the water too long. Of course, all of this depends on the manufacturer of the decals and the amount of adhesive on the backing paper as well as the thickness, or density, of the packing paper that has to absorb the water before releasing the decal. All that being said, which is exhausting to think about, just checking the readiness of the decal to release is the only sure way to know when it's ready to apply. I also use the Micro Set which helps to soften the decal from the underside and settle it onto the painted surface, which I'm sure really helps. (I think). All that said, and I know it's a lot, I really respect your professional observations. For some reason I haven't been able to find your TH-cam channel and check out your videos, I'm sure I'm just not typing in the correct search there. I'll try to find your video on decals and see what you have there. Never worry my friend, I don't think you're being mean, offering advice is the best means to show respect and friendship, and highly value yours!!! Johnny
@@hillbillymodeling Ya, Micro Sol and Set are essential along with good BLOTTING, get all that water and (the deadly culprit) air out. Sol allows the decal to be slid into position and Set does exactly that. Do you have Solvaset ? You build way too well to have something so essential like decals bite you on the kit. Try "Modeling with Bill Grigg" or "Bill Grigg on TH-cam", but PMCMP should work. The show is actually called "Simple Groundwork And Diorama Techniques", but not listed as so. There are two episodes where I do decals, the first one is the Old School way and the second is my new method. You want the New Method, I'll try to find the # of the show where I do the New Deal and let you know. Being in the entertainment field since the age of 16 I learned how essential reviewing old shows is to producing a better new show. So I'm watching the Old School way and it struck me that I was teaching this decal method, not really wrong, but thinking about all the decal problems I have encountered with my students I thought, "There has got to be a better and more logical way to apply decals". Everyone I have taught this too raves about how much better the decal sticks to the subject and achieves that painted on look. The new way does take MUCH longer to get the image to move on the backing paper but it is so much worth it. When the chemical mixture with Set and adhesive are in sink, and NOT diluted, you get a better stick to your surface. I'm so glad you looked at the comment as a teaching method and not an attack. So I'm off to work on my kit bash of the Millennium Falcon with a 1/48 Russian Frogfoot, it was a cutting apart , parts fittin' nightmare, I'll be detail painting for the next thousand years, without a bathroom break, thank the gods I'm Coast Guard and good in BIG WATER, my back teeth are floatin', blub blub. All right brother keep up the good work your stuff looks great. Bill G. (P.S. - if you were not really good at what you do I would not watch) !