Awesome video john we all appreciate the tips cool to see how you do your pumps can you do a video breaking down what parts you would buy to build your own thanks
Thanks John! I’m sure that was twice as hard to film and do. But now I really can understand how they are all put together a lot better. Makes a lot of sense that after transmission fluid flushes through, that all the tacky grease is washed out and that’s why they don’t stay together after used and taken apart.
ATI used to send a grease pin with the Gear Kits(that are no longer sold) and you would follow the pins out with the grease pin give it a pump remove the grease pin and the needles would stay in place
For any sort of needle bearings in this configuration ( manual transmission counter shafts too ) try this. Cut a pin just long enough to slide into the carrier. This way you can push the short pin into the gear as you remove the long pin. Make sure the pin is centered in the gear / thrust washer and slide the gear out. It would help to have the pin horizontal so the thrust washer does not fall off. If you need to pack pins, put the shaft in the gear then you can just about throw the pins between the shaft since the pin will align them. No grease needed.
Next time stick one of the bolts down into the needle bearings with a little grease on it then pick up the gear, needle bearings, and bolt all at once, and out of the carrier.
What you used was a set of calipers. Micrometers look like a C clamp and are used for even more precision. I know this because I have worked in a machine shop and it is very common for people to make that mistake when talking but can confuse people who do not know their measuring tools. Please understand that I'm only only saying this for the benefit of people who might be confused when they try to get the tools they need but are asking for the wrong thing however you can use either one for what you are doing there but calipers are easier to learn to use and much cheaper to buy. Please have a wonderful day and stay safe as I love your content and have learned a lot from you
When changing your pinions out as you pull the pins out add trans gel it will allow your needle bearings to stay in place,I’ve been building transmission for 34 years,just trying to help you save time
Ok let me explain u have a magnet half way there lol... Magnatize the gear then the gear will attract the needle bearings IN THE BORE hold the magnet to the side of the gear it will hold the needles and grease in position... Try it 😉
@@TurboJohnRacing not that I would have a clue (only 4 min. in to the vid and have never rebuilt a trans in my life) but was going to suggest fitting/fabbing a pin for use when pulling/installing them.
cut those old planetary shaft ( bolts) to a little less than the length of the planetary gear and use for a dummy shaft to hold the needle bearings as you remove them from the carrier.
Try cutting the head off of a old pins (to length needed), slap a little grease on it and slip down in there to help keep them in position. Then when you put them back in you can shove the new pins right through shoving the cut ones out..... Just an idea :)
I have seen the gears sets for like 500$ and you have to do what your doing here. I thought it may be a pain. I know im gonna have to do it one day if I want to upgrade tho. Nice video man.
Thanks John, Great video. I will try to refresh my, now that you teach me where to measure the gap in the drum I will need to know how much is in the reverse clutches? Thanks.
Awesome video 👍 wow I thought it was bad dropping a u joint cap. All them Needle bearings look like a pain in ass Wonder if would have worked pumping them with grease gun before disassembly?? Love all your stuff lots of great info
Yes sir . Lots of guys dont know about the converter feed . I usually go for .100-.110 drill bit I cannot think of the fractional number 7/64 maybe ... a trans guy told me many years ago .120 is an open hole to a transmission haha . The turbo 400 has the same issue with lots of useless converter pressure .. this is only exadurated with manual vb just regulate pressure very high at all times .
That is interesting about the .120 as an open hole. Some dump valves that are set up internally on the trans dumps this pressure back to the pan (no fluid to the converter, easy spool). Some dump valves just dump in the cooler circuit.
@@jcnpresser yes they run dump valves like john said can loosen up the converter . There is a new setup I seen somewhere that you can run 2 dumps with nos jets and you can pulse them ..
It is, but by dumping in the cooler line you still have the converter getting full flow. If you dump before the converter, it makes it way looser since there is no coupling at all. I imagine, you have to play with it. I don’t think the converter would be happy with no fluid at all though
Man I been following you for a while now and I Google'd how to replace my pump gear and you popped up. I sheer'd the keys inside that pump gear so I needed to replace it. How hard is it to get that front pump off? DM me if that's easier. Thanks John!
Roller bearing always do that no matter what there in ujoints sometimes can be a pain... were you get the blue grease? Great video John with the swap over
Antonio Claudio Michael I believe it’s transmission assembly lube, we had some in technical school it’s supposed to liquify and become the viscosity of trans fluid once it warms up
Hey John awesome video, just wondering if you were going to reuse those raybestos blues? I’ve used those clutches ever since they came out with them in the mid 90’s. Even though they are a race clutch I used them in a daily streetcar for 80K miles, they hardly had wear.
What fluid do you prefer once going back together? Your last video, you spoke of the "special" filter screen when running a certain type fluid. Thanks!
Stick the pins Thur it next time with a wad of grease on the end an next time it will save you some time that what I do with the velvet drive trans I put them all day everyday a velvet drive trans is mostly run in boats
@@TurboJohnRacing A friend of mine just went thru it with a 1.69 straight cut. Something about odd number gear ratios. He said he put it together wrong and it would turn a little and bind.
Turbo John thanks for the info. My combo is nowhere close to that quick. It’s a stick shift for now but trying to decide what trans to go with when switch to auto.
@@TurboJohnRacing love watching your videos, have a patc 700r4 in mine with a lock up converter and when it goes im deff going to a glide, great video, keep it up
Awesome video john we all appreciate the tips cool to see how you do your pumps can you do a video breaking down what parts you would buy to build your own thanks
Enjoying all your Powerglide vids , Thank You
Man, I love the way you explain stuff. It makes so much more sense, and just clicks in my brain. Thank you for another excellent learning experience.
Thanks John! I’m sure that was twice as hard to film and do. But now I really can understand how they are all put together a lot better. Makes a lot of sense that after transmission fluid flushes through, that all the tacky grease is washed out and that’s why they don’t stay together after used and taken apart.
ATI used to send a grease pin with the Gear Kits(that are no longer sold) and you would follow the pins out with the grease pin give it a pump remove the grease pin and the needles would stay in place
Your power glide series here is the best I’ve seen. Thank you!
my first time taking powerglide apart a few silly rookey mistakes , thsnks for such a clear concise video it helped me so much .
Glad it helped!
Thanks for that bit of info on the converter feed port!
For any sort of needle bearings in this configuration ( manual transmission counter shafts too ) try this.
Cut a pin just long enough to slide into the carrier. This way you can push the short pin into the gear as you remove the long pin. Make sure the pin is centered in the gear / thrust washer and slide the gear out. It would help to have the pin horizontal so the thrust washer does not fall off.
If you need to pack pins, put the shaft in the gear then you can just about throw the pins between the shaft since the pin will align them. No grease needed.
Good stuff Turbo John!
And another lesson from Mr. professor Turbo John. I’m totally gona build my own glide now. I feel like a pro right now. Lol
I was wondering why you didn't pack grease through the bolt hole before you slid the gear out
Thanks John!!!
Next time stick one of the bolts down into the needle bearings with a little grease on it then pick up the gear, needle bearings, and bolt all at once, and out of the carrier.
What you used was a set of calipers. Micrometers look like a C clamp and are used for even more precision. I know this because I have worked in a machine shop and it is very common for people to make that mistake when talking but can confuse people who do not know their measuring tools. Please understand that I'm only only saying this for the benefit of people who might be confused when they try to get the tools they need but are asking for the wrong thing however you can use either one for what you are doing there but calipers are easier to learn to use and much cheaper to buy. Please have a wonderful day and stay safe as I love your content and have learned a lot from you
Good point
You are a very patient man. Your wife must be happy!
When changing your pinions out as you pull the pins out add trans gel it will allow your needle bearings to stay in place,I’ve been building transmission for 34 years,just trying to help you save time
Thanks, good to know that works! I’ll do it next time
Once you've moved the gear to the centre of the housing put the shaft back through and slide the gear up using the shim at the bottom.
Dude awesome videos. I love these tech vids. Keep up the good work
Thanks
John is the real! Great video John!
Thanks
Ok let me explain u have a magnet half way there lol... Magnatize the gear then the gear will attract the needle bearings IN THE BORE hold the magnet to the side of the gear it will hold the needles and grease in position... Try it 😉
Tks for the video John. I’ve got a glide in my S2000 at some point she might need rebuild this info come in handy dandy 💪💪💪
Why not push some grease in the needle bearings while the gear is still in the carrier?
That’s a great idea, I didn’t think of. When editing the vid I also thought I should have tried sliding the pin back in once I moved it over.
@@TurboJohnRacing good point
Wondered the same thing. Way less time and pain in the azz. lol
@@TurboJohnRacing not that I would have a clue (only 4 min. in to the vid and have never rebuilt a trans in my life) but was going to suggest fitting/fabbing a pin for use when pulling/installing them.
cut those old planetary shaft ( bolts) to a little less than the length of the planetary gear and use for a dummy shaft to hold the needle bearings as you remove them from the carrier.
Good tip
Try cutting the head off of a old pins (to length needed), slap a little grease on it and slip down in there to help keep them in position.
Then when you put them back in you can shove the new pins right through shoving the cut ones out..... Just an idea :)
I have seen the gears sets for like 500$ and you have to do what your doing here. I thought it may be a pain. I know im gonna have to do it one day if I want to upgrade tho. Nice video man.
What brand planetary are you running?
TSI is what these are! Great gear set, for the price.
@@TurboJohnRacing Did you mention ratio in the video? Sorry should have asked.
Good Info
Like building a 4 sp with all of those loose needle bearings.
Thanks John, Great video. I will try to refresh my, now that you teach me where to measure the gap in the drum I will need to know how much is in the reverse clutches? Thanks.
Awesome video 👍 wow I thought it was bad dropping a u joint cap. All them Needle bearings look like a pain in ass Wonder if would have worked pumping them with grease gun before disassembly?? Love all your stuff lots of great info
I’m gonna try that next time
Yes sir . Lots of guys dont know about the converter feed . I usually go for .100-.110 drill bit I cannot think of the fractional number 7/64 maybe ... a trans guy told me many years ago .120 is an open hole to a transmission haha . The turbo 400 has the same issue with lots of useless converter pressure .. this is only exadurated with manual vb just regulate pressure very high at all times .
Is this why people run dump valves/solenoids?
That is interesting about the .120 as an open hole. Some dump valves that are set up internally on the trans dumps this pressure back to the pan (no fluid to the converter, easy spool). Some dump valves just dump in the cooler circuit.
@@jcnpresser yes they run dump valves like john said can loosen up the converter . There is a new setup I seen somewhere that you can run 2 dumps with nos jets and you can pulse them ..
I thought the converter circuit was part of the cooler feed circuit, may be on 400 trans though.
It is, but by dumping in the cooler line you still have the converter getting full flow. If you dump before the converter, it makes it way looser since there is no coupling at all. I imagine, you have to play with it. I don’t think the converter would be happy with no fluid at all though
1in or bigger heat shrink to get those out
Very informative 💯💯
You need to soak the clutch material in fluid prior to use, you might burn them up if not
Where can I find those needle bearings I keep getting the wrong size
Next time maybe try filling the void with grease before pulling them out
I was going to say the same thing, maybe a grease gun. Even some transmission fluid would probably help them stick together.
@@jcnpresser if that worked good I'd drill a
pin and put a zirc on it maybe to save grease vs just slaming it all in there
Man I been following you for a while now and I Google'd how to replace my pump gear and you popped up. I sheer'd the keys inside that pump gear so I needed to replace it. How hard is it to get that front pump off? DM me if that's easier. Thanks John!
Great video to
Thanks
Why didn't you apply assembly lube to the washer so it would stick to the bottom and inside the bolt hole to keep the needle bearing in place?
Didn’t think about it
Mor grease lift with magnet..but much more grease it will push out
@3:45 .. spray a shot of white lithium in the gear to hold the needle bearings ?
Oh btw : ANOTHER GREAT VID .
Oh btw : it’s 4:35am lol
Man, I’m struggling today. But I did get in bed a couple hours before you
Roller bearing always do that no matter what there in ujoints sometimes can be a pain... were you get the blue grease? Great video John with the swap over
Antonio Claudio Michael I believe it’s transmission assembly lube, we had some in technical school it’s supposed to liquify and become the viscosity of trans fluid once it warms up
U should put the clutches in fluid first before u put them in, so they won't burn
I do, I assemble the clutch pack first to verify clearance then soak the clutches before final assembly
Hey John awesome video, just wondering if you were going to reuse those raybestos blues? I’ve used those clutches ever since they came out with them in the mid 90’s. Even though they are a race clutch I used them in a daily streetcar for 80K miles, they hardly had wear.
I put the red ones in it, but I’m going to keep the blues are spares for sure
Great video and very informative.
Will you be showing how to measure the reverse clutches at all??????
Yes, on the next transmission vid.
For whatever reason, I’m overthinking the process.
Thanks again!!
What fluid do you prefer once going back together? Your last video, you spoke of the "special" filter screen when running a certain type fluid. Thanks!
Castrol Blue Hydraulic oil, ISO 46
Not sure if it will help but squirt them full of grease then pull them out
They dont have an alternative for the needle bearing like a upgrade
Stick the pins Thur it next time with a wad of grease on the end an next time it will save you some time that what I do with the velvet drive trans I put them all day everyday a velvet drive trans is mostly run in boats
Thanks
Be forewarned that some gear sets have to be clocked to each other. If you don't them it will lock up.
I think I got them back in the way they came out, but these are straight cut and don’t have any twist.
@@TurboJohnRacing A friend of mine just went thru it with a 1.69 straight cut. Something about odd number gear ratios. He said he put it together wrong and it would turn a little and bind.
How much power do you think a car should make to consider running a powerglide instead of a 3 speed 400
I switched in the high 5’s and it picked up et!
Turbo John thanks for the info. My combo is nowhere close to that quick. It’s a stick shift for now but trying to decide what trans to go with when switch to auto.
Whoever disliked this video meet me out back! Its ass kickin time!!!
LOL, it took me a while to get over those dis likes, probably one person that doesn’t like me for some reason! LOL
Kind sir ur needle bearing problems are fixed with a 1$ magnet... Fyi
is there anything you don't know
I know a little bit about a lot on a car, but not an expert on anything....lol
the blue clutches are better
Ooo yea. And F$&k needle bearings. Lol. I’ve done that too many times.
I hope that is Actually "trans gel" and not grease. Should really use trans gel or vaseline.
It was the blue gel.
@@TurboJohnRacing Looked like it. ;)
Wassup John
What’s happening
@@TurboJohnRacing love watching your videos, have a patc 700r4 in mine with a lock up converter and when it goes im deff going to a glide, great video, keep it up
guess I should watch the hole video, I should have know better than to think you didn't know.
Don’t feel bad I use to do the same thing to people. Definitely don’t want to do it to deven vanderhoof’s channel, 😂!
LOL, no there is a lot I don’t know! I love reading the comments! I learn a lot from you guys also!
First