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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2019
- Replacing wheel front bearings and rotors on 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.2L 2WD. This video shows the removal of the calipers and brake pads to replace the rotor. The video also shows what to do to remove the wheel hub, castle nut, wheel, nut and cotter pin.
The video also shows packing the bearings and inserting them in to the racers and last the bearing seal being put on the inner bearing on the rotor.
I intended to show the brakes being put on the rotors, I lost the footage.
Music:
TeknoAxe
Going to be replacing both on the same truck thanks man much appreciated!!
I love channels that show me how to fix cars. It's a must for me.
If you haven't already, check out ChrisFix. Awesome channel and he has a lot of easy to follow content!
Front tapered bearings for 1999 5.2L 2WD: Tighten the nut to 41 - 54 Nm (30 - 40 ft. lbs.) to preload bearing while rotating the hub/rotor. Stop hub/rotor and loosen nut to completely release bearing preload torque. Tighten the nut finger-tight and install the nut lock. Install a new cotter pin.
NOTE: The end play should be 0.25 - 0.076 mm (0.001 - 0.003 inch).
Thank you! Very helpful information.
Thank you!
Was really confused for a while because I need to change the bearings on my 95 1500 2WD, and was seeing that some had packable bearings, some had hubs, some had splined hubs, and couldn't find the right video for mine. But looks like yours is exactly what I needed, thanks!
I had the same problem, I even order rotors online and they were the wrong style (returned) . I went to Auto Zone got everything I needed, even extra racers incase I damaged them during install.
Good Luck!
@@RonsLens The install went great, thanks!
@@marvnation924 Thanks for the update, Well Done!
Many thanks for adding the part number for the rear seal. For some reason it was the hardest things for me to find, life saver
You're welcome. trying to help out the best way I can.
Where’s that part number? Lol I need that as well!
Thanks man liked it a lot very specific too our trucks with the 5.2
2 wheel drives makes it easy too focus on just our modle
Thanks for your video it will help me a lot I will replace my rotors soon..
A ratchet Allin wrench fitting -- never seen one of those. Maybe that side of the truck that was more rusty sits toward the ocean. I have the greatest admiration for anyone that can do this sort of stuff.
Thanks Joe, it wasn't with some set backs, I did some bone head things. Maybe a what not to do video can help some folks out will be pushed out later. I ran out of battery power on both the camera and the phone. Then I ran out of time and daylight.
Who has not.
This will help a lot. Thanks!
If this video helped you out, let me know, with a like and or comment. Sorry about the Audio!
Thanks for the video!!
Wow! Youve got lots of tools Ron!
thanks for the video 🤟
Thanks man, helped me out a lot👍 BTW-try flipping your channel locks around your using them backwards 😉
Thank you, always learning!
Just needed to know how ya go about getting that center cap off. Wasn't sure if it was threaded or not. Thanks for sharing!
It's not threaded just give it a few love taps an it will come off
Set 5 for the rear bearing. What kind of bearing Is the smaller one?
Video was very helpful but the music was louder than your Original audio
Appreciate the video. Do you have an idea for the axle nut toque spec? I have a 95 sport 2wd with the 3.9, and it has a very similar build. Same rotor and wheel bearings. Ive even managed to swap my rear leaf spring brackets with a 97 dakota 4x4, changing the rear stance. I found the control arms and spindles of the 92 through 94 match almost exactly with my 95. The only difference is the tie rod size(quite a bit smaller). I had to tap some new 92 tie rods and managed to work it.
All that being said, I really like what they did with your front end. The shock is accessible outside of the spring and I noticed a larger spindle. Probably all around larger with the bigger motor. I bet you, I could work that in. I just need to check measurements of the control arms mounting points. The newer parts would help a lot.
I'm sorry about the nut toque spec, I tighten it to the point that the pin would fit back in. Junk yards for the parts on the Dakota are my only thought about your parts situation. Good Luck!
just added comment for taper bearing preload
Why didn't you put grease in the cap to provent water damage
I didn't know this, if I change the bearings again, I look into this.
@@RonsLens ok good, your supposed to put it in the cap aswell to help keep dirt an water out
Tighten first
Then back out
Is it the same on a 3500?
I really don't know, sorry. when I looked things up there didn't seem to be anything that pointed me in the right direction on the rotors for my truck, I ordered from amazon and was sent the wrong ones. Then I went to auto zone and they were able to give me the rotors shown in the video.
Please don’t judge me, but I got to be doing something wrong, cause i can’t get the wheel seal in
No judgment from me. Double check you have the right part. You may have to buy a replacement seal if you damage the one you have.
Harbor Freight might have a tool you could buy "Race and Seal Driver Set", or the auto parts store could rent out the tool to you. I recall the 1st time doing this, I had to get another seal, myself. Good Luck
@@RonsLens found out I have the rotor I have to press the bearing in, so I have to wait and find a press
Did not preload and set rotational torque which is what I was looking for
Sorry Bud, try this video th-cam.com/video/Obt1lqzT5RI/w-d-xo.html
If you do it video it so we all learn. Good Luck!
I wish I could just waxed that mustache
Can't hear u over the "background" noise, er music? Would suggest beta testing audio b 4 upload
Very pertinent subject for me, need to swap my pads.
sorry about that.
Did the wheels fall off since you didn't torque down the axle nut?
no
Sub 200!